Check the gas tank manufacturer design, but usually the ports on the bottom side of the tank go towards the rear so you don’t get fuel pump starvation under heavy acceleration.
I was going to say this. Plus. One of those is the feed and one is a drain. The return will go into the top and usually had a spout inside that brings the fuel to the bottom of the tank to stop splashing and aeration.
Center of Gravity - lower that fuel tank! 20 gallons of gas weighs 120Lbs. Even the factory placed the tank below the trunk floor. Also the sump faces the back of the car as others have mentioned.
Why not drop the fuel tank more? Can still use all the work you just did, but cut a hole in the new sheet metal and maybe add bracing. Run lines under, could use stock filler cap which looks cool, adds trunk space, and lowers center of gravity.
The way to do that, would have been to raise that middle piece rather than recess it, and use some angled steel to make a cradle underneath. Really that requires a fuel pick up though so he'd need to make modification to the tank to sit that low Personally I would have gone that route and done a dual fuel pump hanger with 2 intank fuel pumps, and moved the return and vent to the hat and cut off and welded up all the AN fittings. It would eliminate the need to run an external pump/surge tank as well.
Very cool. I'd mount gas tank lower since: 1. Ensure that fuel pump doesn't get "flooded" due to gas tank seating higher than fuel inlet (which is fairly low in the back) 2. Lower center of gravity 3. More space n the trunk - you can actually place a plate on TOP of the tank and then have much more space there. But it's your car and design so enjoy it 🙂
Look at the dust on that fuel tank. I bet somebody gave it to him or he bought it used. And I don’t think they come with the standoffs like that to bolt it down. So he’s probably into it for less money than a reproduction tank. I hope he puts the pick up towards the back like it’s supposed to be though
Ben, I think the fuel cell should be oriented with the feed lines towards the rear. When you’re accelerating with a low tank, the fuel will pool into the rear which is where you want your pickup. Just a thought,
That part on the bottom of the tank is the sump. It goes to the rear of the car not the front. It is designed to sticks thru the floor for the fuel lines so they are outside the car. Personally I would lower that cell down and use the stock filler cap. Having it on top of the floor raises the center of gravity. Cut a hole in the floor and raise the tabs on the cell so it only sticks out about half way into the trunk. Otherwise loving the content. Keep up the great work.
Agree with the lowering of the tank like every other comment - you don’t want weight high and rearwards. Also, I like using steel to fill the gap between the back seat and trunk, and parcel tray - I like the fuel cell completely separated so if it catches fire, you’ve got more time before it enters the passenger space.
Leaving the fuel cell in the trunk will create more problems than you can imagine. If you don't have clearance to mount the fuel cell below the trunk floor, cut the floor and leave about 1 to 2 inches of the fuel cell above the floor. It is best to keep the fuel cell below the floor, otherwise in an accident you have the danger of a ruptured fuel cell releasing gas into the interior of the car. This was a flaw in the original design of this vehicle and other Ford cars of this era (look up the law suites). I have owned a 1966 Mustang since 1966 in case you might wonder if I have any experience with this car.
I put that exact same fuel tank in my 46 Ford street rod. I mounted it with the pick up sump at the BACK of the car. This gives you more room for filters and pumps. I also made tank supports from thick wall tube so tank sits level in car and I did not have to cut into the perfect 70+ year old trunk floor. BTW....you need a mask when painting......when your north of 60 like me....you will wich you did. THX
You really need to get a bead roller to make the panels look nicer and would be stronger, Just looked a manual one up and Was £279 about $363 in your money, well worth it.
That drop on the tank goes to the rear of the car and you have to cut a slot on both sides and make a little drop down for the lines to go under the car too the front of your car. The top lines need a different pump for you to use them. Put it in place and mark each side of the sump and cut a line as long as the sump then make up sides for it and weld them up . This will leave you with your sump in your trunk and you can get to your fittings and run the lines under your car.
I am not an expert by any means, but I think that fuel tank should be lower. Usually gas tanks, EV batteries and the like are lower for center of gravity, protection, safety, etc.
Won't be turning any corners too quickly either with that much fuel weight located that high in the vehicle. Mustangs before the independent rear suspension models are notorious for having the rear end come out from under you at low speed turns while applying power, far less power than this car will have. Mounting the tank that high will only exacerbate that problem with a weight shift that high above and to the rear of the center of gravity occurring in the middle of a turn.
@@Sev_Auk I agree Unfortunately today people want the car to do everything including drive for them. Sure automatics are great if all you care about is driving fast in a straight line (drag race) They don't understand the fun and control you can have with a manual transmission, and your brakes last longer. Sorry somehow this comment became a rant.
@@IIIIIIIlII yeah, more complicated in a bad way and there is zero engineering in his work, just goofing around and looking like an idiot whatever he does. That build is total crap and every car builder that knows things will be laughing at his work.
I’m not sure do you have an idea about how noisy the fuel system in the car is? The pumps will be making some noise and the fuel going thru filters and hoses makes noise to. Lower the tank in the trunk,from then use that to get the fuel components under the car. With that you got quieter and safer fuel system. Lower centre of gravity at the back and may even use the stock fuller neck.
Going to solid bushings seems strange for a car that will have an auto trans. Solid are for hard edged performance cars. It's your car though, keep up the good work.
Defiantly recess the tank , if it was just sitting on the trunk floor the top of your tank would be level with the filler opening , it kinda needs to be down hill for the fuel to be able to run into the tank .
Don't rush this build as it appears that you are. You have access to a paint booth, I cannot believe you are rattle canning it. Also, drop the tank. It will not be to difficult and the filler neck would align to the factory location.
turn the fuel cell around where the lower part faces towards the rear. this allows your pump not to lose prime when your hard accelerating. any car builder will tell you that.
Ben there's a drop in fuel pump assembly for fuel cells. You have a 12 bolt fuel filler and you just take out the one you have and bolt the fuel pump assembly in , it has a filler hole on it so you could use the original spot to fill or put a cool filler on the rear piller and put cool cap.The 2 I love are one from a Viper and the other is from an Audi TT.Your cell is in backwards. Vents and return need to be towards the front of the car. I have a fuel cell in my 70 Mach 1 mustang and went through what you are! I would mark a hole in the plate, cut it and lower the cell half in trunk and half under the car. Weight balance will be better. And you gain room in the trunk! I lowered mine and it's just above the rear pan so yo can't see it! I hope this helps
Good showing Young Sir, your build is looking very V-,Tuned and coming together great. Automatic is simple but the classic revving of the engine on take off and a rev in between shifts going up and shifting down I'd a truly unique sound. I prefer a stick any day especially with all that power.
Looking great! Just another alternative for the trunk floor. The top of the tank forms the trunk floor so if you want to retain that look you could cut the bottom of the tank away and just use the top of it as the trunk floor. But yours looks great with not a lot of extra time or money.
That trunk area looks amazing. That's the next step on my 65 but I'm using the stock fuel tank.If you don't slow down you're gonna beat me! Thanks Tennessee.
Is your car painted and rust proofed underneath as well? I'm just curious bro, some people tend to forget that..... other than that you're doing an awesome job.😉👍
Tanks Inc. makes a drop in stock replacement tank with efi provisions. Doesn’t get any easier than that. Sometimes I think you tubers half ass stuff just to push content out.
Good job with the car brother.. suggestion.. cut a hole in the trunk floor so the sump in the tank protrudes through the floor and definatly run the fuel lines under the car. NOT through the interior.. If you want to be fancy you can get a piece of exhaust tubing and run the lines through them when you go up over the axle. That whould be NHRA spec.. also with having the fuel cell in the trunk you may want to concider a piece of aluminum between the back of the passenger seat and the trunk compartment.. that is also NHRA spec.. its a good idea to follow these guidelines because we all have learned over the years what works as far as safety goes... have a kill switch for the pump somewhere you can access from the cockpit also. Hollar at me if you need any further information or advise.. PS.. the sump in the tank faces rearward so you dont starve the pump..
What's with the spray canning? You've done all that work don't you want it to last and look good? Also I agree with Sparky, the fuel tank should have been seating lower...
Install the gas tank lower. A lower center of gravity will make the car handle better. Having use of the trunk space is a nice bonus. Do it like the original to make it look best. Also, you should geta bead roller. Notic panels from car makers are not flat. The beads are there for strength and rigidity without adding extra weight.
the outlets on fuel cell need to point to back for fuel to not slosh back and starve the system on launches i would recess it in to floor to get some trunk space and use factory filler as well
That part with the 2 fittings on the tanks bottom goes to the rear of the car because under acceleration the gas will be forced to the rear of your tank!
Ben......please please please push the tank further forward on top of the axle tunnel. That pushes the tank closer into the wheelbase (better weight and safer) AND will give you some trunk space. It can sit right behind the rear seats. Please, consider it, means only making a rear raised mount for the back of the tank. 😎👍
I would drop the tank through the floor of the trunk at least half way. Ports face the back not the front. You can then use the original filler port if you weld in a large port on top of the tank. Nice job Ben. 👍🏻
for your next build, look into zinc metal spraying It is used sometimes for industrial equip. If you spray the entire chassis, it will be impervious to rust
As sophisticated as these new transmissions are these days, I say go with the automatic, use a GT500 shift dial, an aftermarket controller and install paddle shifters! As far as the fuel cell goes, listen to all the other comments about where the outlet goes. Also, I would drop it down to where the top is flush with the floor of the trunk. That way, you can still use the stock filler. By the way, I’ve loved every one of your builds! You have crazy talent, and keep ‘em coming!
The sump in the bottom of the tank should face backwards to not cause a fuel starve issue. Cut a hole for it to drop thru the floor. Also make sure you put a firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment.
Automatic will be the best option.. lower the fuel tank for gravity.. then filling cap keep it from right side Open one small round cut in trunck for drainage of water if decide to clean trunck, first find rubber cap for it same as OEM . Don't forget to seam seal all weding and joint..
Hey Ben: if you decide to do another car like this, or any project where you're going to be spot welding, you might want to think about buying a spot welder...it's SO much faster and easier than a mig. Two electrodes, press against the metal, zap, two welds instantly. Move on 2" zap, 2 more welds..
Are you sure the shop spot welders are that good? I’ve seen others using them having to weld over the top of them again probably because the spot welds don’t go deep enough.
@@R2D2trashcan they don't go deep enough due to the settings. I worked in a body shop and that's all they used, as strong as the OEM ones. I also designed metal store fixtures and worked closely with many manufacturers, set up properly, the spot welds are as strong as virgin metal. You have to set them high enough to produce a strong bond, but not so high you blow through the steel.
@@R2D2trashcan Yeah there's no splatter or bubbling or anything to grind. When they're done correctly, when you chisel them apart you leave the chunk of steel behind where you attached it....When I was first learning to use it, the boss would give me a bunch of scraps, I'd zap two and he'd pull them apart with pliers. "hotter" he'd say. I'd turn it up a notch and try again "ok, good" and when he peeled them apart it'd leave a chunk behind. Then he would have me turn it up again and he'd peel it like it was nothing but I'd left a big circle behind because it was too hot.
If you cut a small section out of the trunk floor for the tank to sit flush, those fuel outlets will be situated nicely underneath the body, facing the rear. It’ll be a neat solution to run the lines and use the inertia under acceleration to counter any fuel starvation issues you might have with a close to empty tank.
That front end is TIGHT! all puns intended, looking great. I know it would suck to cut into what you did, but going to have to for fuel lines and not sure what pump you are using so look into how it wants to be positioned. Personally like the submerged pumps because the fuel helps cool it and keep it quiet, but that also has its drawbacks. Might be able to do a returnless fuel system depending on the setup from here and could cap the second vent with 1 less line to run. Please cut the firewall for the steering and brake master before you paint or body work. Doing such a nice job and would suck to go much further without it done having dust over everything. I know seat position may need to be looked into but it all works together or its a statue. Automatics are fine, some could use a shift kit or upgraded clutchpacks but depends alot on the torque converter or the rear axle ratio. That's the only reason they have a bad rap.
Cut a hole in the trunk with sheet metal straps like a beefy OEM strap but no matter which way you end up mounting that tank it’s metal on metal so make sure you use rubber spacers between the mounts and metal or it will rattle like crazy ask anyone with a flat bed truck with a mounted fuel tank on it lol. Great build so far your viewers as well as you want this thing right for you so don’t slack on mounting the fuel cell right for time it’ll be worth it in the end to mount it right and under the trunk! Keep digging brother!
bottom outlets are designed to go in rear for fuel on accelleration. that design is from drag racing . you used to be able to buy a sump to weld to stock tanks that had an fittings for fuel lines to help prevent fuel starvation on drag cars
The tank is designed with the fuel lines setting at the lowest point for fuel pick up. And you'll want to run the fuel lines under the car, not thru the cabin. Looking pretty slick!
With the finishing of your welded spots on the body, like across the roof, have you thought about giving traditional leading a go as opposed to body filler? Their are more environmentally friendly options than the old style leading and it would fit better with the period of the vehicle, not to mention learning a new skill. You're going down the custom classic road, makes sense to give it a shot :)
Hi Ben, as you wont be racing this car, wouldn't it be nicer to use the original fuel filler location and lower the tank to allow for that. Keeping centre of gravity as low as possible? Locating the filler to another place means another hole or mod. Using the original filler will be a wise move I think. Auto is cool as well as the build, awesome.
Lower that fuel cell as low as possible for weight and trunk space...the way it is typically done is to build a small box/cage out of square or angle iron that the cell/box fits into and the top of the cell is maybe either flush with the floor or up an inch or two....
It's looking great man, nice job, keep going! I'm voting for an automatic especially since you're going with the Coyote. There is little question the Coyotes do better with an AT.
Fuel lines need to be under the car. Don't flirt with fire issues. The pumps can go in the area just ahead of the trunk area. That will make them easy to service and keep them away from human occupants.
I would cut the hole to get it flt the tank flat. Then I would measure to see if I could cut hole in the side of the fuel cell to use the original fill location and run a piece of pipe to connect the 2 locations. Wouldn't know if it is possible until the cell is in its final place. Also you have the tank backwards. Feed lines towards the rear because that is where the fuel goes when moving forward. You will have fuel starvation in the direction.
Hi, on my 72 Maverick I use the stock fuel fill hole for my battery cut off switch. It was a real pain to fill the car at the pump. It is was always leaking gas as you filled up using the stock location. I just cut the curve point of the filler neck and filled it up with the trunk open.
Maybe i'm wrong, but i feel like you're rushing with the fuel tank and the rear end. The trunk looks amazing, and you put so much effort on the front end of that car it would be a shame to just rush the fuel tank situation. Like others said, maybe take some time to drop the tank below the floor. You will win on all fronts : great trunk space, lower center of gravity, and must of all better security. Any rupture in the fuel cell inside the cabin would be a disaster. You have the skills to do it right, all you need is patience.
Use those rubber bushings that you deleted from the steering rack as sort of stand-offs on the back of the fuel cell to clear that bottom hump. Would help with vibrations, too, if you think about it. Just a thought
Ford had a huge problem with their Pinto autos. They used the top of the fuel tank as the floor of the trunk. When they got rear ended, the tanks ruptured and burned to death the occupants of the cars. You have a tank with no sheet metal between it and the passenger compartment. You may want to think about that......
FYI the bottom fuel feed on the fuel cell goes to the rear of the car, you keep sitting the tank in with the lines facing forward. If you put the lines forward you can starve it under a hard launch.
You are mounting the fuel cell backwards. The part that extends below the cell is a sump. The sump is made t face the rear so you do not starve the engine of fuel during acceleration.
The fuel tank is a sump tank and outlet port is supposed to face towards the rear of the car or well have fuel starvation under acceleration! Also thats thought floor fuel tank... it has to comr through the bottom of the car and mounted to the bottom ... and if he does that he can run a filler neck using the stock location of the fuel cap
great work mate but i would lower the tank futher into the floor to make easer to fill as the filler needs to have a slight angle to ease filling tank.PS check top of compared bottom of filler hose
Actually, with not having traction control, the manual will be the better option. Automatic transmissions can't predict when you will need to make certain maneuvers, but a skillful driver has more control with the manual, through gear selection and clutch modulation that can't be matched through electronic shifting. I think that if you go with the stick-shift, you will find this project more fulfilling. The 1965 era Mustang is is an analog experience that deserves a retro representation if any car ever did.
Have a great day Ben, you got a lot done, ever think about paddle shifters they could work with an automatic transmission, safer too with the amount of power you are putting in that stang, both hands always on the wheel at all times.
you def have some research and learning to do. the dyno on the tank does towards the rear. that tank is actually designed for drag racing, not really a pro touring type tank.
just purely as a performance standpoint putting the fuel cell halfway through the floor one would help with the filling but also puts the weight lower in the body so its handling would be better but its your stang
The mustang is looking good your doing an amazing job. By the way I know you recently got a new camera man. Shout out to him he's doing a great job helping you tell your siory.
Rust proof the floors with thicker Bedliner from a spray gun with compressor including trunk and rust proof under carriage like a factory build. Plus sound dampen the inside
I would lower the tank at least half way down into the hole. That gives you more trunk space and lowers the center of gravity. You don't want 120 lbs of fuel sloshing around up in the trunk.
🌴 Hey Ben, for on the street and in 1/4 mile runs go automatic, if you want to do serious stuff you can put a shift kit in it and a stall converter, plus electronics in the cars computer, ( beast mode ) hooked up to the turbo I think your going to have way to much fun ! When you do the fill on the gas tank careful you don’t get metal shavings inside, and you’ll need to vent that tank to the two fittings need to face the rear of the car and run the lines under the car for safety reasons, would of liked to see the front shocks on , and I think things are going to get interesting when you get the motor in and start hooking up the steering, next video is tomorrow right ! 🤪
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Cut a tray for the fuel cell and drop it down. Gives you more trunk room, lowers the center of gravity and you could also use the stock fuel filler.
I agree!
Very much agree
Completely agree!
Yes!!! Exactly! I agree on this too.
1000% agree
Check the gas tank manufacturer design, but usually the ports on the bottom side of the tank go towards the rear so you don’t get fuel pump starvation under heavy acceleration.
Beat me to it lol
This is true
He should put it on the roof so that the fuel easily goes down to the engine.
I was going to say this. Plus. One of those is the feed and one is a drain. The return will go into the top and usually had a spout inside that brings the fuel to the bottom of the tank to stop splashing and aeration.
The sump
Center of Gravity - lower that fuel tank! 20 gallons of gas weighs 120Lbs. Even the factory placed the tank below the trunk floor. Also the sump faces the back of the car as others have mentioned.
Also if he uses the original fuel hole, he wont be able to top the fuel off.
Nope, he should put it on the roof so that the fuel easily goes down to the engine.
Ya seems like he’s just trying to get progress and go the easiest route, meanwhile we’d love to see his ingenuity with fabrication
@@voldemarsaugspuls5795 fuel hole????
Why not drop the fuel tank more? Can still use all the work you just did, but cut a hole in the new sheet metal and maybe add bracing. Run lines under, could use stock filler cap which looks cool, adds trunk space, and lowers center of gravity.
The way to do that, would have been to raise that middle piece rather than recess it, and use some angled steel to make a cradle underneath. Really that requires a fuel pick up though so he'd need to make modification to the tank to sit that low Personally I would have gone that route and done a dual fuel pump hanger with 2 intank fuel pumps, and moved the return and vent to the hat and cut off and welded up all the AN fittings. It would eliminate the need to run an external pump/surge tank as well.
Stock filter cap is for show only🤬 this project failed
Very cool. I'd mount gas tank lower since:
1. Ensure that fuel pump doesn't get "flooded" due to gas tank seating higher than fuel inlet (which is fairly low in the back)
2. Lower center of gravity
3. More space n the trunk - you can actually place a plate on TOP of the tank and then have much more space there.
But it's your car and design so enjoy it 🙂
... And you can use the factory filler
I think a stock gas tank would’ve fit better for more room in the trunk
No doubt.
Have some room for spare tire and jack and its actually cheaper than the fuel cell he bought.
Look at the dust on that fuel tank. I bet somebody gave it to him or he bought it used. And I don’t think they come with the standoffs like that to bolt it down. So he’s probably into it for less money than a reproduction tank. I hope he puts the pick up towards the back like it’s supposed to be though
Would look neat
Ben, I think the fuel cell should be oriented with the feed lines towards the rear. When you’re accelerating with a low tank, the fuel will pool into the rear which is where you want your pickup. Just a thought,
My thought exactly. He doesn’t know any better
That part on the bottom of the tank is the sump. It goes to the rear of the car not the front. It is designed to sticks thru the floor for the fuel lines so they are outside the car. Personally I would lower that cell down and use the stock filler cap. Having it on top of the floor raises the center of gravity. Cut a hole in the floor and raise the tabs on the cell so it only sticks out about half way into the trunk. Otherwise loving the content. Keep up the great work.
Agree with the lowering of the tank like every other comment - you don’t want weight high and rearwards. Also, I like using steel to fill the gap between the back seat and trunk, and parcel tray - I like the fuel cell completely separated so if it catches fire, you’ve got more time before it enters the passenger space.
Don't run fuel lines inside the car!!! Still not thinking things through before he just sends it.
Leaving the fuel cell in the trunk will create more problems than you can imagine. If you don't have clearance to mount the fuel cell below the trunk floor, cut the floor and leave about 1 to 2 inches of the fuel cell above the floor. It is best to keep the fuel cell below the floor, otherwise in an accident you have the danger of a ruptured fuel cell releasing gas into the interior of the car. This was a flaw in the original design of this vehicle and other Ford cars of this era (look up the law suites). I have owned a 1966 Mustang since 1966 in case you might wonder if I have any experience with this car.
I put that exact same fuel tank in my 46 Ford street rod. I mounted it with the pick up sump at the BACK of the car. This gives you more room for filters and pumps. I also made tank supports from thick wall tube so tank sits level in car and I did not have to cut into the perfect 70+ year old trunk floor.
BTW....you need a mask when painting......when your north of 60 like me....you will wich you did. THX
You really need to get a bead roller to make the panels look nicer and would be stronger, Just looked a manual one up and Was £279 about $363 in your money, well worth it.
Been saying it from the start! Along with powder coating suspension parts, for long term finish !
That drop on the tank goes to the rear of the car and you have to cut a slot on both sides and make a little drop down for the lines to go under the car too the front of your car. The top lines need a different pump for you to use them. Put it in place and mark each side of the sump and cut a line as long as the sump then make up sides for it and weld them up . This will leave you with your sump in your trunk and you can get to your fittings and run the lines under your car.
I am not an expert by any means, but I think that fuel tank should be lower. Usually gas tanks, EV batteries and the like are lower for center of gravity, protection, safety, etc.
I think the automatic is a good call! I wouldn't be worried about the fuel cell height as Ben probably won't be competing in any races.
It's always a sad day when a manual transmission gets the boot :(
Won't be turning any corners too quickly either with that much fuel weight located that high in the vehicle.
Mustangs before the independent rear suspension models are notorious for having the rear end come out from under you at low speed turns while applying power, far less power than this car will have.
Mounting the tank that high will only exacerbate that problem with a weight shift that high above and to the rear of the center of gravity occurring in the middle of a turn.
Especially when you cant drive stick !
automatic is for a wimp, a real driver listen to his engin and shifts himself😉
@@Sev_Auk I agree
Unfortunately today people want the car to do everything including drive for them. Sure automatics are great if all you care about is driving fast in a straight line (drag race)
They don't understand the fun and control you can have with a manual transmission, and your brakes last longer.
Sorry somehow this comment became a rant.
Be so much easier and cleaner to get the proper mustang fuel tank .
That’s the vtune specialty. Make everything way more complicated and “engineered” than it needs to be.
@@IIIIIIIlII A stock replacement tank at Jegs is only $120.
@@IIIIIIIlII yeah, more complicated in a bad way and there is zero engineering in his work, just goofing around and looking like an idiot whatever he does. That build is total crap and every car builder that knows things will be laughing at his work.
I’m not sure do you have an idea about how noisy the fuel system in the car is?
The pumps will be making some noise and the fuel going thru filters and hoses makes noise to.
Lower the tank in the trunk,from then use that to get the fuel components under the car.
With that you got quieter and safer fuel system.
Lower centre of gravity at the back and may even use the stock fuller neck.
I would have gone with an OEM style gas tank for fuel injection so it would sit lower and wider and able to use OEM fuel filler port.
I agree with others, lower the fuel tank. Much cleaner build. But hey, it's your vision. Just an opinion.
Going to solid bushings seems strange for a car that will have an auto trans. Solid are for hard edged performance cars.
It's your car though, keep up the good work.
I think Ben will regret not professionally designing a Spot for the Aftermarket fuel tank.
You mean not getting a professional to design it? I don't see a great level of professionalism here.
Defiantly recess the tank , if it was just sitting on the trunk floor the top of your tank would be level with the filler opening , it kinda needs to be down hill for the fuel to be able to run into the tank .
Don't rush this build as it appears that you are. You have access to a paint booth, I cannot believe you are rattle canning it. Also, drop the tank. It will not be to difficult and the filler neck would align to the factory location.
By far one of my favorite build from this channel! Only because of the progress, it’s amazing to see
Have you ever thought of using dynamat in the interior? It helps with sound deadening.
turn the fuel cell around where the lower part faces towards the rear. this allows your pump not to lose prime when your hard accelerating. any car builder will tell you that.
Ben there's a drop in fuel pump assembly for fuel cells. You have a 12 bolt fuel filler and you just take out the one you have and bolt the fuel pump assembly in , it has a filler hole on it so you could use the original spot to fill or put a cool filler on the rear piller and put cool cap.The 2 I love are one from a Viper and the other is from an Audi TT.Your cell is in backwards. Vents and return need to be towards the front of the car. I have a fuel cell in my 70 Mach 1 mustang and went through what you are! I would mark a hole in the plate, cut it and lower the cell half in trunk and half under the car. Weight balance will be better. And you gain room in the trunk! I lowered mine and it's just above the rear pan so yo can't see it! I hope this helps
Good showing Young Sir, your build is looking very V-,Tuned and coming together great. Automatic is simple but the classic revving of the engine on take off and a rev in between shifts going up and shifting down I'd a truly unique sound. I prefer a stick any day especially with all that power.
Looking great! Just another alternative for the trunk floor. The top of the tank forms the trunk floor so if you want to retain that look you could cut the bottom of the tank away and just use the top of it as the trunk floor. But yours looks great with not a lot of extra time or money.
That trunk area looks amazing. That's the next step on my 65 but I'm using the stock fuel tank.If you don't slow down you're gonna beat me! Thanks Tennessee.
What about the filler, shouldn't it be pointing down. Really think you should have lowered the tank more.
Is your car painted and rust proofed underneath as well? I'm just curious bro, some people tend to forget that..... other than that you're doing an awesome job.😉👍
Por 15 or dom16
Manual transmission is the definition of a sixties muscle car.
and a manual transmission will raise the value eventually.
As a weekend cruiser i dont get why he's thinking about his foot hurting in traffic...what traffic
@@marquisethomas5611 He cant drive stick !!
Not really add value! Some want stick some dont ! 2 of my projects had stick, the other auto ~
@George Jones Hmmm is he your bf, sorry, but just stating some facts !! Sorry i hurt your feelings about your bf, sorry @
Tanks Inc. makes a drop in stock replacement tank with efi provisions. Doesn’t get any easier than that. Sometimes I think you tubers half ass stuff just to push content out.
No what would give you that idea. Lol.
Good job with the car brother.. suggestion.. cut a hole in the trunk floor so the sump in the tank protrudes through the floor and definatly run the fuel lines under the car. NOT through the interior.. If you want to be fancy you can get a piece of exhaust tubing and run the lines through them when you go up over the axle. That whould be NHRA spec.. also with having the fuel cell in the trunk you may want to concider a piece of aluminum between the back of the passenger seat and the trunk compartment.. that is also NHRA spec.. its a good idea to follow these guidelines because we all have learned over the years what works as far as safety goes... have a kill switch for the pump somewhere you can access from the cockpit also. Hollar at me if you need any further information or advise.. PS.. the sump in the tank faces rearward so you dont starve the pump..
What's with the spray canning? You've done all that work don't you want it to last and look good? Also I agree with Sparky, the fuel tank should have been seating lower...
You should’ve gotten all the suspension powder coated 👍🏻
Spot on!! Its going to look like crap within a week of driving!! Even in panels need better paint, rattle cans not going to be good long term !
Should’ve thought this fuel system through more. I decided to go with a stock efi tank. All together didn’t cost more than 400$.
A four link with coil overs in back would be better than the stock leaf spring setup
those leaf springs are bad about wheel hop
Install the gas tank lower. A lower center of gravity will make the car handle better. Having use of the trunk space is a nice bonus. Do it like the original to make it look best. Also, you should geta bead roller. Notic panels from car makers are not flat. The beads are there for strength and rigidity without adding extra weight.
the outlets on fuel cell need to point to back for fuel to not slosh back and starve the system on launches i would recess it in to floor to get some trunk space and use factory filler as well
That part with the 2 fittings on the tanks bottom goes to the rear of the car because under acceleration the gas will be forced to the rear of your tank!
Really enjoying this build Ben! Keep it up man!
Ben......please please please push the tank further forward on top of the axle tunnel.
That pushes the tank closer into the wheelbase (better weight and safer) AND will give you some trunk space. It can sit right behind the rear seats.
Please, consider it, means only making a rear raised mount for the back of the tank.
😎👍
I would drop the tank through the floor of the trunk at least half way. Ports face the back not the front. You can then use the original filler port if you weld in a large port on top of the tank. Nice job Ben. 👍🏻
Put that fuel cell on the roof and rattle can with the good stuff, dang son!!
for your next build, look into zinc metal spraying It is used sometimes for industrial equip. If you spray the entire chassis, it will be impervious to rust
Make sure you put the AN fittings for the fuel lines towards the back of the trunk. Great job man, keep it up!
leave room for the tank sump area in the trunk floor so you can run the fuel lines below.
As sophisticated as these new transmissions are these days, I say go with the automatic, use a GT500 shift dial, an aftermarket controller and install paddle shifters! As far as the fuel cell goes, listen to all the other comments about where the outlet goes. Also, I would drop it down to where the top is flush with the floor of the trunk. That way, you can still use the stock filler. By the way, I’ve loved every one of your builds! You have crazy talent, and keep ‘em coming!
10:58,To get that filler hole to line up, yes you will have to lower the tank!
Coat the threads of the coil overs with Anti Seize and the power rack mounts so it can be serviced later.
The sump in the bottom of the tank should face backwards to not cause a fuel starve issue. Cut a hole for it to drop thru the floor. Also make sure you put a firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment.
NHRA rules.
@@chriscatarcio2983 multiple sanctioning bodies require it. Just a good safety precaution if your going to install a fuel cell in the trunk.
The “spout thing” on the fuel cell in a sump it goes to the rear so you don’t fuel starve when you get on it it’ll catch all the fuel in that sump
Automatic will be the best option..
lower the fuel tank for gravity.. then filling cap keep it from right side
Open one small round cut in trunck for drainage of water if decide to clean trunck, first find rubber cap for it same as OEM .
Don't forget to seam seal all weding and joint..
Hey Ben: if you decide to do another car like this, or any project where you're going to be spot welding, you might want to think about buying a spot welder...it's SO much faster and easier than a mig. Two electrodes, press against the metal, zap, two welds instantly. Move on 2" zap, 2 more welds..
Are you sure the shop spot welders are that good? I’ve seen others using them having to weld over the top of them again probably because the spot welds don’t go deep enough.
@@R2D2trashcan they don't go deep enough due to the settings. I worked in a body shop and that's all they used, as strong as the OEM ones.
I also designed metal store fixtures and worked closely with many manufacturers, set up properly, the spot welds are as strong as virgin metal.
You have to set them high enough to produce a strong bond, but not so high you blow through the steel.
@@muskokamike127 ah ok maybe people just don’t trust them also as the weld looks so clean. They look really good.
@@R2D2trashcan Yeah there's no splatter or bubbling or anything to grind. When they're done correctly, when you chisel them apart you leave the chunk of steel behind where you attached it....When I was first learning to use it, the boss would give me a bunch of scraps, I'd zap two and he'd pull them apart with pliers. "hotter" he'd say. I'd turn it up a notch and try again "ok, good" and when he peeled them apart it'd leave a chunk behind.
Then he would have me turn it up again and he'd peel it like it was nothing but I'd left a big circle behind because it was too hot.
Cut out the trunk plate and sink that tank down, com'on dude.
If you cut a small section out of the trunk floor for the tank to sit flush, those fuel outlets will be situated nicely underneath the body, facing the rear. It’ll be a neat solution to run the lines and use the inertia under acceleration to counter any fuel starvation issues you might have with a close to empty tank.
Glad to see you're making good progress!
That front end is TIGHT! all puns intended, looking great. I know it would suck to cut into what you did, but going to have to for fuel lines and not sure what pump you are using so look into how it wants to be positioned. Personally like the submerged pumps because the fuel helps cool it and keep it quiet, but that also has its drawbacks. Might be able to do a returnless fuel system depending on the setup from here and could cap the second vent with 1 less line to run. Please cut the firewall for the steering and brake master before you paint or body work. Doing such a nice job and would suck to go much further without it done having dust over everything. I know seat position may need to be looked into but it all works together or its a statue. Automatics are fine, some could use a shift kit or upgraded clutchpacks but depends alot on the torque converter or the rear axle ratio. That's the only reason they have a bad rap.
Cut a hole in the trunk with sheet metal straps like a beefy OEM strap but no matter which way you end up mounting that tank it’s metal on metal so make sure you use rubber spacers between the mounts and metal or it will rattle like crazy ask anyone with a flat bed truck with a mounted fuel tank on it lol. Great build so far your viewers as well as you want this thing right for you so don’t slack on mounting the fuel cell right for time it’ll be worth it in the end to mount it right and under the trunk! Keep digging brother!
When you weld long runs weld 2” skip a inch and weld 2”. Cleaner weld and looks a lot better. Just as strong. Trust me. Ask a pro welder.
Also prevents a creeping crack in the weld if it should happen,stops at the gap..
bottom outlets are designed to go in rear for fuel on accelleration. that design is from drag racing . you used to be able to buy a sump to weld to stock tanks that had an fittings for fuel lines to help prevent fuel starvation on drag cars
I'm a bit sad that the Mustang won't get a manual trans, but i it's your car, not mine. But I am very happy to see the build going toward assembly ^^
The tank is designed with the fuel lines setting at the lowest point for fuel pick up. And you'll want to run the fuel lines under the car, not thru the cabin. Looking pretty slick!
With the finishing of your welded spots on the body, like across the roof, have you thought about giving traditional leading a go as opposed to body filler? Their are more environmentally friendly options than the old style leading and it would fit better with the period of the vehicle, not to mention learning a new skill. You're going down the custom classic road, makes sense to give it a shot :)
Hi Ben, as you wont be racing this car, wouldn't it be nicer to use the original fuel filler location and lower the tank to allow for that. Keeping centre of gravity as low as possible? Locating the filler to another place means another hole or mod. Using the original filler will be a wise move I think. Auto is cool as well as the build, awesome.
Great video, car is really coming together well, fantastic job, you da man
Lower that fuel cell as low as possible for weight and trunk space...the way it is typically done is to build a small box/cage out of square or angle iron that the cell/box fits into and the top of the cell is maybe either flush with the floor or up an inch or two....
It's looking great man, nice job, keep going! I'm voting for an automatic especially since you're going with the Coyote. There is little question the Coyotes do better with an AT.
Manual is 4 men you have full control of the car.
Fuel lines need to be under the car. Don't flirt with fire issues. The pumps can go in the area just ahead of the trunk area. That will make them easy to service and keep them away from human occupants.
Coming along nice. Can't wait to see it running and driving.
Some good progress right there 👏
But will it float?
But the rain drip rails tho
@@burntnougat5341 what rain drip rails 🙄
I would cut the hole to get it flt the tank flat. Then I would measure to see if I could cut hole in the side of the fuel cell to use the original fill location and run a piece of pipe to connect the 2 locations. Wouldn't know if it is possible until the cell is in its final place. Also you have the tank backwards. Feed lines towards the rear because that is where the fuel goes when moving forward. You will have fuel starvation in the direction.
Hi, on my 72 Maverick I use the stock fuel fill hole for my battery cut off switch. It was a real pain to fill the car at the pump. It is was always leaking gas as you filled up using the stock location. I just cut the curve point of the filler neck and filled it up with the trunk open.
Maybe i'm wrong, but i feel like you're rushing with the fuel tank and the rear end. The trunk looks amazing, and you put so much effort on the front end of that car it would be a shame to just rush the fuel tank situation. Like others said, maybe take some time to drop the tank below the floor. You will win on all fronts : great trunk space, lower center of gravity, and must of all better security. Any rupture in the fuel cell inside the cabin would be a disaster. You have the skills to do it right, all you need is patience.
My vote is to lower the tank , makes for better handling and you can use the original filler hole ,
Use those rubber bushings that you deleted from the steering rack as sort of stand-offs on the back of the fuel cell to clear that bottom hump. Would help with vibrations, too, if you think about it. Just a thought
Ford had a huge problem with their Pinto autos. They used the top of the fuel tank as the floor of the trunk. When they got rear ended, the tanks ruptured and burned to death the occupants of the cars. You have a tank with no sheet metal between it and the passenger compartment. You may want to think about that......
FYI the bottom fuel feed on the fuel cell goes to the rear of the car, you keep sitting the tank in with the lines facing forward. If you put the lines forward you can starve it under a hard launch.
The fuel should exit at the rear and if you notch the trunk floor it would allow you to run it outside the car
Front end is looking good.But the fuel tank i thought it would go half way in height.
You are mounting the fuel cell backwards. The part that extends below the cell is a sump. The sump is made t face the rear so you do not starve the engine of fuel during acceleration.
The little spout area is supposed to go through the trunk floor toward the back.
🤪🤪🤪🤪👍
The fuel tank is a sump tank and outlet port is supposed to face towards the rear of the car or well have fuel starvation under acceleration!
Also thats thought floor fuel tank... it has to comr through the bottom of the car and mounted to the bottom ... and if he does that he can run a filler neck using the stock location of the fuel cap
Fuel line outlets should be facing the rear of the car, not forward.
The cell would be better recessed into the floor rather than on top of it.
great work mate but i would lower the tank futher into the floor to make easer to fill as the filler needs to have a slight angle to ease filling tank.PS check top of compared bottom of filler hose
Actually, with not having traction control, the manual will be the better option. Automatic transmissions can't predict when you will need to make certain maneuvers, but a skillful driver has more control with the manual, through gear selection and clutch modulation that can't be matched through electronic shifting. I think that if you go with the stick-shift, you will find this project more fulfilling. The 1965 era Mustang is is an analog experience that deserves a retro representation if any car ever did.
Have a great day Ben, you got a lot done, ever think about paddle shifters they could work with an automatic transmission, safer too with the amount of power you are putting in that stang, both hands always on the wheel at all times.
you def have some research and learning to do. the dyno on the tank does towards the rear. that tank is actually designed for drag racing, not really a pro touring type tank.
just purely as a performance standpoint putting the fuel cell halfway through the floor one would help with the filling but also puts the weight lower in the body so its handling would be better but its your stang
Looking good! Nice to see those new parts on the front end., and a nice clean trunk now.
The mustang is looking good your doing an amazing job. By the way I know you recently got a new camera man. Shout out to him he's doing a great job helping you tell your siory.
Looking good Ben. Can’t wait to see it done.
Rust proof the floors with thicker Bedliner from a spray gun with compressor including trunk and rust proof under carriage like a factory build. Plus sound dampen the inside
Ladies and gents as you see no bead rolls in the truck but he’s going to gas it ok cause the gas tank will stop the vibrations
I would lower the tank at least half way down into the hole. That gives you more trunk space and lowers the center of gravity. You don't want 120 lbs of fuel sloshing around up in the trunk.
🌴 Hey Ben, for on the street and in 1/4 mile runs go automatic, if you want to do serious stuff you can put a shift kit in it and a stall converter, plus electronics in the cars computer, ( beast mode ) hooked up to the turbo I think your going to have way to much fun ! When you do the fill on the gas tank careful you don’t get metal shavings inside, and you’ll need to vent that tank to the two fittings need to face the rear of the car and run the lines under the car for safety reasons, would of liked to see the front shocks on , and I think things are going to get interesting when you get the motor in and start hooking up the steering, next video is tomorrow right ! 🤪