Rich Just found your video, i totally agree with Steves comments. It great to see someone with the rarer 5 cylinder engine. We have a MWB 812D. Please keep the info coming. I have an ABS light on which is a crack in the sensor ring. Your info has helped with tackling the first part of this. Following your example I may try and video it. Thanks for the info. another Steve.
Chambers come Pre set no need to adjust them , set pads in put pin in the lever and pump up both the foot brake and handbrake it will pass any brake test 👌🏻. VOSA approved
Thanks for your comment you’re very kind, a quick question, last weekend I replaced the steering drag link but didn’t video it. In your opinion should I do a quick explanation video explaining what techniques and problems?
Hey! Thanks for the video! Regarding the pads sensor wires, the shiny sheet metal has a canal where the white wire should be seated and the metal then pinched with a plier. The way you are doing it wit plastic ziplocks is not good, the ziplocks will melt from the huge heat and the white wire will eventually rub to the rim, resulting in false brake error on the dashboard. I will try to upload a picture here, but I'm not sure if it is possible...
Hello Rich. I would like to ask for your advice...Ive done everything exactly like your video and everything went fine on one side of it, but on the other I cant retract the handbrake piston. Would you know why?
I’m sorry I can’t be 100% sure, my guess would be that you are having trouble starting ‘on’’ the thread. Perhaps make or buy an 8mm hexagon that fits in a socket and you may be able to push harder as you turn. Failing that remove the piston or consider buying new.
@@richstuff6300 All sorted buddy. This video helped loads... I was just not pushing hard enough. In terms of bleeding/change fluid, which sequence would you recommend please?
I just checked in a manual for a different vehicle, start the bleeding furthest from the brake pedal, so back passenger side first front driver side last. Good luck (you will need approximately 1 Litre of Dot 4 brake fluid)
Rich Can you help? I have wound back the lower piston to accommodate new pads. Using a 8mm hex. It retracted fine but won't go the last 5mm so the new pads won't fit. It appears the mechanism is stuck rather than the piston. It's fully disconnected from the air ram and all the side pistons and guides are free and running. Not sure if its a calliper fault or the mechanical arm that pushes the adjuster forward...any thoughts??
Sorry to hear that, all I could suggest would be to release the fluid pressure at the reservoir under the bonnet, also you could push/squeeze/compress the caliper piston whilst rotating the Allen key. It could be a corroded piston with rust stopping the retraction. Consider using a G clamp to do the squeezing.
Just noticed your jubilee clip securing the end of the flexible hose at 14.31..
Very clever 👍
thank U mister U saved a hell of lot of time for me on my 614 D
Rich
Just found your video, i totally agree with Steves comments. It great to see someone with the rarer 5 cylinder engine. We have a MWB 812D. Please keep the info coming. I have an ABS light on which is a crack in the sensor ring. Your info has helped with tackling the first part of this. Following your example I may try and video it. Thanks for the info. another Steve.
Hi Rich, just like to say your a god send with your videos. Just researching how to change rear discs and pads, so wish us luck. X
You’re very kind thanks so much. Best wishes with the disc job, video it 😀
Chambers come Pre set no need to adjust them , set pads in put pin in the lever and pump up both the foot brake and handbrake it will pass any brake test 👌🏻. VOSA approved
Thanks for your comment you’re very kind, a quick question, last weekend I replaced the steering drag link but didn’t video it. In your opinion should I do a quick explanation video explaining what techniques and problems?
Thanks Steven for your positive comments. I’ll be doing those videos soon, hope they are helpful.
@@stevenmaloney3787 thanks for your comments and question, just to check are you removing the air tank or brake actuator?
I’ve just uploaded a quick video Steven, is that helpful? (with the air tank drain bung out the air pressure will be the same as atmospheric).
thank you, very useful video I have my brakes to do!
Thanks your comment is appreciated.
Great vid cheers
Thanks that’s appreciated.
Hey! Thanks for the video!
Regarding the pads sensor wires, the shiny sheet metal has a canal where the white wire should be seated and the metal then pinched with a plier. The way you are doing it wit plastic ziplocks is not good, the ziplocks will melt from the huge heat and the white wire will eventually rub to the rim, resulting in false brake error on the dashboard. I will try to upload a picture here, but I'm not sure if it is possible...
Thanks that makes sense I understand I appreciate your comment.
Hello Rich. I would like to ask for your advice...Ive done everything exactly like your video and everything went fine on one side of it, but on the other I cant retract the handbrake piston. Would you know why?
I’m sorry I can’t be 100% sure, my guess would be that you are having trouble starting ‘on’’ the thread. Perhaps make or buy an 8mm hexagon that fits in a socket and you may be able to push harder as you turn. Failing that remove the piston or consider buying new.
@@richstuff6300 All sorted buddy. This video helped loads... I was just not pushing hard enough. In terms of bleeding/change fluid, which sequence would you recommend please?
I just checked in a manual for a different vehicle, start the bleeding furthest from the brake pedal, so back passenger side first front driver side last. Good luck (you will need approximately 1 Litre of Dot 4 brake fluid)
Great video, thanks Rich
Rich
Can you help? I have wound back the lower piston to accommodate new pads. Using a 8mm hex. It retracted fine but won't go the last 5mm so the new pads won't fit. It appears the mechanism is stuck rather than the piston. It's fully disconnected from the air ram and all the side pistons and guides are free and running. Not sure if its a calliper fault or the mechanical arm that pushes the adjuster forward...any thoughts??
Sorry to hear that, all I could suggest would be to release the fluid pressure at the reservoir under the bonnet, also you could push/squeeze/compress the caliper piston whilst rotating the Allen key. It could be a corroded piston with rust stopping the retraction. Consider using a G clamp to do the squeezing.
I've got the same problem on my Vario so I'm really curious to know if you got it fixed and how?