วีดีโอ

@@joevwgolf that’s very kind thank you.

@@ElsaochRobin thanks for your lovely comment, a life saver…. Are you sure 😀. If you’re asking about the little wiper arm puller I got it in the UK, a shop called Machine Mart.

@@osky7777 thanks for your comment, glad it was of use.

Electronic fuel controllers are outside my expertise sorry , you will probably need to plug in a computer and read the fault code I suggest. That’s likely to be a job for Mercedes truck garage.

Yes I’m pleased with it.

Danke Oliver

That’s nice of you to say, thanks

Gracias

Shock absorber yes easily, spray WD40 on the fixings a week before you tackle the job would be a plan. Support the axle to remove any tension that might be present on the fixings too. I don’t know what you mean by tensioner.

I’ve used a general purpose high melting point grease, also consider a comment from one of my subscribers to Jack up the wheel to take the weight off the joint before greasing, makes sense to me. I’ve not done a master cylinder on my Vario, on other vehicles it’s been easy for me. I’ve always measured / noted the adjustment before removal and used that as the starting point for the new part. Thanks for your comment, I’m planning a couple of new videos consider subscribing and clicking for notifications, you’ll get an email when I upload. Cheers Rich

Nice one. Cheers Rich, much appreciated. Sadly I dont have a jack with me so itll have to be whilst its sat for now. Better than nothing I suppose!

You could look at the gear lever linkage to see if it’s dirty or needs grease, the clutch may be getting worn or perhaps the clutch master or slave cylinder could need bleeding. Just ideas, might be worth bobbing into your garage guy 😀

You’re very kind thanks so much. Best wishes with the disc job, video it 😀

There’s a nut on mine. Thanks for your question

Thanks that makes sense I understand I appreciate your comment.

Thanks so much your information is valuable, I can understand the reasoning. Thanks again.

Thanks that’s appreciated.

Thanks your comment is appreciated.

It’s a reconditioned unit from Birmingham Brakes, superb quality and service and less than half the price of the Mercedes Benz main dealer. See my other brake videos for more details.

Just to be transparent I have no affiliation to Birmingham Brakes. Thanks Rich

I’m afraid I don’t know, I’d suggest it’s a good idea on older higher mileage engines, makes sense that it could really help. Mine doesn’t smoke (yet) 😀

@@richstuff6300 No worries, figured it wouldn't hurt, so tried it in our OM602, noticable difference immediately. btw, like your videos! 😁👍

Perhaps this tip will help someone with a OM602 in the US in the future: finding OM602 tuneup and repair parts in US can be interesting because that engine wasn't imported in any cars or trucks so there's no way to cross reference in parts store computer system; however, tell the parts store 1997-2000 Mercedes E300D(US) and even though it's a different engine, those parts bolt right onto OM602!

Sorry I don’t Steve but if I was checking I’d sit in front of the relays and get a helper to operate the indicator feel for a click as power is sent from the indicator stalk. If the relay has failed you won’t be feeling a click and will have to use a 12v multimeter to see which relay gets power when the indicator switch is ON. I think that’s how I would start. (Also you could check the relays for other accessories (such as headlights and brake lights) in the same way and work it out that way)

Thanks so much for your message. I appreciate it.

I’m sorry I can’t be 100% sure, my guess would be that you are having trouble starting ‘on’’ the thread. Perhaps make or buy an 8mm hexagon that fits in a socket and you may be able to push harder as you turn. Failing that remove the piston or consider buying new.

@@richstuff6300 All sorted buddy. This video helped loads... I was just not pushing hard enough. In terms of bleeding/change fluid, which sequence would you recommend please?

I just checked in a manual for a different vehicle, start the bleeding furthest from the brake pedal, so back passenger side first front driver side last. Good luck (you will need approximately 1 Litre of Dot 4 brake fluid)

Great video, thanks Rich

I’m going to have to say no, if that happened to me I would assume it’s an electrical problem and I’d start with easy stuff like fuses, faulty earths, rubbing / damage to wires etc. you’re going to have to remove the dashboard somewhat. Hope it goes well.

This happened on my 814D Vario, I was flummoxed and ended up taking it to Merc, it had blown fuse. They sorted that and put in a new Taco disc in and it worked pretty much fine thereafter. Very occasionally I have to tickle the Tacho disc, but 99% of the time now speedo is all good.

Sorry I’m not familiar with the 904, the starter is usually easy to identify, it’s usually located on the lower half of the engine at the rear, it spins the flywheel which is inside the bell housing, it’s got a very thick cable running to it too. I’d take it off and take it for testing. If you’re not confident best take it to a mechanic (that cable is full of electricity so take care).

@@richstuff6300 Thanks, yes will remove the battery leads first

My understanding is it’s turned on and off by a pressure switch, I suggest you ask for details from a Mercedes dealer or change all the pressure switches, I recently replaced a pressure switch it was £25 UK Sterling.

Great that’s nice to hear, any questions just ask.

Hi Ian, I’m actually not 100% sure if it’s ATF or EP90, sorry. I will look at my book and let you know, I may do a short video showing how to check the level. My rear diff is EP90 for sure.

@@richstuff6300 thanks rich, watched your video on greasing King pin s got straight on on it thanks to your video nice one 👍 lan

Thanks Ian for your comment, I’m not sure really, I’ve got all the original order docs for my Vario so just use that, if you provide your local Mercedes dealer with your registration number they will send you the engine number, mine did (without me asking).

@@richstuff6300 thanks for replying Richard unfortunately my 507d has had engine change so I need to find number on engine it's self thanks anyway regards ian

Thanks Bob, I’m not a professional TH-cam bloke, when I bought mine a few years ago I quickly realised that information was limited. Your comment makes my efforts worthwhile, thanks again. Do subscribe

I’ll have a look next time (but your Mercedes dealer will email you the part number if you ask).

Sorry to hear that, all I could suggest would be to release the fluid pressure at the reservoir under the bonnet, also you could push/squeeze/compress the caliper piston whilst rotating the Allen key. It could be a corroded piston with rust stopping the retraction. Consider using a G clamp to do the squeezing.

I've got the same problem on my Vario so I'm really curious to know if you got it fixed and how?

Mine was just a drain bung no spring, I bought and fitted one to make draining easier, however mine has the electrical compressor fitted with air drier cartridge (I videoed cartridge replacement), so my air system is quite dry.