I have some issue with clicking sound near wheels like under the car. I am not a mechanic but I think it’s those sway bars you mentioned or is it axels ?
I have a 2007 Rav 4. I have been blessed to have over 280,000 miles. I have had the ignition coil issue and the burning oil as well. Toyota basically rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago because of it. I love mine but know time is getting shot with it. Hoping for 300,000.
I owned a 2006 Rav4 ,put 173,000 miles with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty repair. Traded it in for a 2011 Rav4.Put 203,00 on it with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty work. Love my 2017 Rav4 Bought it new. Same as the previous two, no problems or warranty time .
I currently have one I've dealt with some problems with the oil as I know there's an oil burning problem so you got to keep checking the oil because the engine also goes in the Camry or Corolla I believe and they have to drop the engine and replace stuff and Toyota says it's not worth it using a higher quality thicker oil works. Other than that I have no complaints about the vehicle. I do however suffering from a catalytic converter problem and I had to get the small one replaced and the big one is going to be a lot of money.
Space... You're right! I've fitted a full size fridge inside with all the doors closed. I was pushed again the steering wheel and my testicles were getting hot when I was turning, but that's just a detail. 😂
You Ignored the biggest problem with this generation Rav4: OIL CONSUMPTION. It was mostly the 2006-2008 2.4L 4 cylinder, thousands of engines were even replaced by Toyota under a campaign up until about 2018. Even the 2.5L burns some oil. The V6 is immune to the problem but more likely to have oil leaks.
The real top 5 issues: 1. Gas is not self filling 2. Oil changes every 5k to 10k 3. Air filter gets dirty 4. Brakes wear out 5. Tires wear out What I'm saying is these go 200k mi on nothing but basic maintenance.
My wife's 2010 RAV$ (4Cyl) now has 130K miles. Not one of those things that you have mentioned has failed yet. I have replaced the radiator, which I fortunately noticed when I open the hood for no reason. The hose was pretty much totally broken, it actually totally snapped just with the very slight touch I did. The left wheel bearing totally crapped out, due to water penetration which rusted the entire bearing. This al happned at 90K miles. To this date, just battery tires, and wiper blades that I regularly replaced. I drained and refilled twice the the ATF at 100K miles. Still drive like it was brand new to this date. The headlights are still clear since it was wrapped with 3M clear bra.
I have the same vehicle and have only had routine maintenance, tires, wipers, brakes, headlight bulbs, and batteries. Been a fantastic car. Going to keep it going until the doors fall off, if possible.
I had the 2010 rav for eleven years just traded it in on the 2021 hybrid the only problem I had in all them years was I done a left hand front strut other wise in was amazing bullet proof I used to drive it hard from day one and it never missed a beat
I have a 2007 rav4 and I have an evap canister check engine light along with two other lights. The code suggest I replace the canister. When I pump gas, it stops all the time and I already replace the gas cap. Also one of my spark plugs leaks oil into it too. Your video is spot on lol
We’ve got a 2010 rav, 280k kms, still going strong, no problems, chews a bit of oil these days, I’ve calculated about 10 litres per 10,000 km, sounds a lot , but that’s only 1 ml per km, easier to just top up every weekend than worry about the cost of replacing the engine or vehicle. Driving it till it dies
Hey! I'm considering buying one of these vehicles in a few months because I'm looking for something reliable and not too expensive to buy and keep, would you recommend it?
@@juanda1995 yes. i have one and it’s very noisy and loud engine but it will NEVER die. aslong as you keep up with the oil changes and top it up when it’s low it’ll last easily 300,000 miles
Ours is a 2009, it has 250k km, and the vvt rattle on cold starts, we already replaced the timing chain (caught it just as it was about to fail 😅) It doesn't burn oil at all, but we are getting low gas performance, about 6 km/L (14 mpg) and I gotta say that I drive like a grandma on Sunday. No check engine light or any other problems...
Own one as well, use some 'stop smoke' or stop leak, it usually works if the leak isn't too bad (worked on ours). Overall 240,000 kms and a bulletproof V6, can't complain.
I actually commented the same thing in one of the Durango videos I think. It’s kinda weird that he says that in almost every video, and also it’s weird that he says the Dodge Avenger is a “great car.”
Thanks, I’ve got a 2011 with just 62K on it, bought it new, haven’t had any of those problems so far but will keep them in mind, I take very good care of my vehicle & plan on keeping it until it’s no longer reasonable to put money in it, hope it’s a very long time, like over 200K. It’s been a very good SUV, I’ve had no major repairs, just recently had to replace part of the exhaust for the first time.
I have a 2007 Rav4 V6 Sport AWD with a leaking front differential. It's not leaking from the axel seals but it is leaking at the pinion seal from the driveshaft going to the rear differential and I'm told they have to remove the whole Engine, Transmission, Differential to fix? What do you think?
We have a 2009 RAV4. Ours has 71,415 miles on it. I just replaced the downstream O² sensor. The upstream sensor was replaced about six months ago. We also had the intermediate steering shaft replaced and (believe it or not) the transmission as well.
09 with 71,415 miles!!! Wow that's awesome, will have that car for a long time!! I have a 2011 with 146,000 and have had it since 13,000 miles. Been keeping up on maintenance and I replaced front end bushings and steering bushings but that's a Givin over time. Awesome cars
Those are minimal and can be avoided/remedied through periodic/religious maintenance. 😊 Glad it's not engine, brakes and transmission issues compared to other makers cars belonging to that age group. Given that is a Rav 4 pretty sure it's been great miles and rough conditions with at least 140 M on it.
Recently my 2011 rav4 V6 4WD has developed an intermittent engine surge while braking. 9 years no issues. Last month, while pressing the brake to slow down/stop, the engine surged and made the vehicle difficult to stop. If I hadn't put it into neutral, it would have rolled me into the intersection. I've had the same all weather mats in the vehicle since I've bought it. Not an issue for many years. All of a sudden this new issue acutely appeared. Read through the forums. Toyota blamed the floor mats with other vehicles reporting the same issue. I switched back to the Factory mats. It worked okay for a few days, then did exactly the same thing with the original equipment Toyota mats. It's not driver error, my foot was no where near the the accelerator when braking. No one seems to know the root cause. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and what the solution was that resolved the issue other than replacing the vehicle. There has to be a fix out there. Please let me know.
Thanks for sharing such great information. For EVAP box, I have replaced it twice, yet the same Symptoms/errors codes are still there. Could you please enlighten me how I can fix this issue. Thanking you in advance
my 2012 (4 cylinder) ran like dream for 260k miles but would burn a half quart every 750 miles or so. It was my dads 2nd car and I would drive it when I wasn’t at uni. today was my first day back from uni so i drove it for the first time in awhile and when i got to my destination across town, it started smoking and then went up in flames
Rav4 don't suppose to burn engine oil. Your car probably had a oil leak and since you hadn't driven or taken care of it for a while, the oil probably leaked out. Car without motor oil will burn because of the friction.
Dude, awesome videos... I live in Aussie Cobber Digger Land aka Australia. I own the same RAv4 and your level of explanation and detail are impeccable. Unfortunately we can't get your parts here in Australia and have to pay extortionate prices
I still drive my 2006 Rav I always maintain it put new part in it if needed. Such a reliable car 170,000 miles on it 4 cylinder engine and it still runs like new. Anything lasts long when you maintain it right. The only thing with the 4 cylinder engine is that it burns oil fast but I’m ok with that.
does it have the 2AZ-FE engine, that one was known to use oil after 70 thousand kilometers or so due to faulty oil rings. the engine model after that didn't have that problem, although some motors do use some when the miles get high.
We have the newer AR-FE 2.5 liter engine in our 2009. Uses no oil between changes. I don't believer in using high mileage oil unless you have a problem with oil consumption. There's nothing wrong with full synthetic Super Tech oil and that's what we use.
1)Radiator hose plastic connector-known failure point 2)Agree on the coils,mine went bad on 2010 3)Wheel bearings went at 90K Other than that very reliable vehicle,still going at 165,000 miles.I’m doing a suspension freshen up now. With the price of new vehicles I’m gonna keep her running until a major failure point.I’ve never had a repair I couldn’t do myself,never had it at a mechanic other than inspection.
Can Evap Canister cause the Check Engine, 4WD, and VSC all at the same time and show an OBD scanner P0171 - Too Lean code? It has long starting whenever it engine has not for long periods like overnight.
My 2006 has none of these issues. Surprised he didn't call out the 2AZ-FE engine like I have. The one where the piston rings were installed incorrectly. Consumes oil so have to be vigilant as to oil level.
Happy to say, my 2010 4-cylinder has not had ONE of these problems yet... or any other major issue for that matter. What an awesome vehicle! For the last twelve years, I have followed the recommended maintenance and have replaced brakes and tires when worn. That's it! My biggest complaint is the overly-sensitive TPSM that never seems satisfied. I found your video today as I searched for ways to reset the sensors or disable the light altogether. Drives me nuts!
Currently I’m driving a2006. It was driving me crazy over couple months, starting and not starting until after 0-15!attempts. To my surprise, the dashboard wasn’t showing anything. So I grabbed my neighbor’s OBD reader, and it showed me a list of codes related to EVAP system issue. To make the story short, I replaced the purge valve, but I have to after other codes and god knows how much I spend on it before clearing all the codes. To be reasonable, I’ve had this car for 7 years no issues until this one، beside the rust, I’m telling you they’re horrible for rust
My 2010 has 210k on it and it’s oil thirsty. Been looking for a leak but haven’t found anything. Loses about a quart every 1500-2000 miles. Pretty normal for a regularly maintained car?
Great video! Would you rather purchase 2010 Toyota Rav 4 sport with 150K miles @ $11.5K or 2006 RX400h w/ 120K miles for $10.5K? Let's assume both are in excellent condition. Both have a ll proper maintenances done. Thanks.
have a 2007 base, what's the best vacuum line to tap to perform a smoke test? Mine is throwing a P0171 and has for a while. O2 sensors, MAF, fuel filter, pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, PCV, all replaced. Amazingly hard to find a vacuum leak with other methods. Probably on there somewhere, but I'm not ruling out fuel pump, but I hear they hardly ever go bad. Will be testing fuel pressure too soon. Also, have the intake gasket in hand, but the carb cleaner check and vacuum pressure test seem to be okay.
Andy, nice seeing you again on the videos.. Looks like you lost some weight. Hope it wasn't the corona. Good health to you and the team at 1A auto. Cheers!
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 160K miles. I just replaced the sway bar links, and I have issues filling up the gas tank all the way similar to the #2 issue mentioned in this video.
HI absolutely love your videos I've never done anything with cars but found you and I've already changed the front wiper motor on my rav. I'm just wandering if you have a video on how to change the fuel filter under the fuel pump in a toyota rav4 mk3 57 plate. Thanks
2010 rav4 sport with 110,000 miles. Check engine 4wd and traction control light on. Went to mechanic codes for evap canister and 02 sensor at the same time.
We just bought a 2011 Rav4 2.5L with 152k miles from the original owner. Transmission fluid is black, but Toyota says it's not necessary to replace? PCV valve is likely defective so that would cause oil leaks, blow-by into the crankcase, and excessive oil usage. Luckily I haven't fount any oil leaks but seems to have a lot of blow-by in the oil.
Another big problem on that generation of RAV4 not mentionned here is the drive shaft. At a certain point, the drive shaft bushing will jam (overall in the cold) and between 45-80kph it will shake. Quit costy to replace when it is the original shaft because the hole shaft as to be replace.
I have a 2010 4 cylinder rav 4 it only has 88,000 miles on it but I had to get evap canister it was idling rough and it would cut out a few times prior to having the evap canister replaced . It was running fine for a month and now it just started happening again I would see the maintenance required light start blinking then go off then a few minutes later it started idling rough and cut out it happened 5 times in row I managed to get home parked it very frustrating
I’m about to buy one 2007 but I notice the back tires they are no even from inside ., is that do you think people put a lot of weight do you think if I put new tires it will damage my tires again?
got a 2010 rav 4 4cyl with 4wd, i got a check engine light for a misfire (sometimes) and a crank sensor circuit, my mechanic recommended not replacing it because on his data log it seemed more like a reluctor wheel. the engine starts up usually on the first couple cranks and only feels luggish occasionally when i step on it, you think my mechanic is wrong and the sensor actually is bad or is it likely the reluctor wheel is broken. im lost here
We haven't noticed any of these problems with our 2009 RAV4 which has 62,600 miles on it. Maybe later. We have noticed that the ATF fluid is often 20⁰ to 30⁰F hotter than it should be so we change the fluid more often.
@@Probe253 4 cylinder... 2.5 liter AR-FE with 4 speed automatic. Six cylinder has a 5 speed automatic. See my updated post. Ours has over 71,000 miles now. Transmission was replaced as was the intermediate steering shaft and both O² sensors. Transmission and steering shaft were covered 100% by aftermarket warranty.
What year rav4 is in the video? I have done research saying not to buy 2007-2008 models but to buy the 09-10 models instead. I am currently looking at buying one with 4x4, V6 in either the limited or Sport. And what some forums and websites are suggesting is that the later models are a little easier to deal with in terms of maintenance and problems.
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
@@Kingfisher1215 I think you may be confusing the 2.4 liter engine with the 2.5 liter engine. The 2.5 liter first made it's appearance in the 2009 RAV4 in the 2009 model year in the USA.
My experience with O2 sensors going bad is vehicle is the engine is burning oil which fouls the sensors (and catalytic converter) Changing O2 sensors is a bandaid solution.
If you get your oil changed at Fred Haas be careful that they don’t strip the oil pan by over tightening then calling it normal wear & tear. It will cost you to to replace the oil pan. Good job boys.
I own a 2007 it has 178,000 miles it consumes oil, but I just add a qt. Every 500 to 600 miles, and I have a 2012 193,000 miles and is no problem with oil consumption, both vehicles are reliable no issues what so ever. Great on gas.
we have 2 rav4 in the family a 2011 and a 2007 in Australia both have the older 2AZ engine and both use oil, we don't have the cold winter problem ,so run 10w-40 full syn oil and can also run 10w-50, but l hav not tried that yet. both cars are family favourites
+Adebayo Aladebo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2008 v4 i always forget its a 4 cylinder because its got so much pep and pickup. For its size and being v4 its shocking to most people when they hear its not a v6. And like i said im always forgetting its v4, it performs above any v4 ive owned. Other than my ex honda civic that was tricked out. The rav has constantly had o2 sensor problems. Im always resetting the indicator lights in between so called repair of the o2. And my only other problem with the rav is with some parts like the horn thats gone bad in mine, the replacement process is a nightmare and completely inconvenient to fix. Many things have to have practically the whole front end removed to replace a 12 dollar part etc. Other than that its one of the best running cars ive driven.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I have some issue with clicking sound near wheels like under the car. I am not a mechanic but I think it’s those sway bars you mentioned or is it axels ?
I have a 2007 Rav 4. I have been blessed to have over 280,000 miles. I have had the ignition coil issue and the burning oil as well. Toyota basically rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago because of it. I love mine but know time is getting shot with it. Hoping for 300,000.
I owned a 2006 Rav4 ,put 173,000 miles with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty repair. Traded it in for a 2011 Rav4.Put 203,00 on it with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty work. Love my 2017 Rav4 Bought it new. Same as the previous two, no problems or warranty time .
08 Rav 4 V6... 272177 on the clock and still running great!😎
2007 RAV4 was once my mom's car. Great on gas, reliable, and can fit more stuff than a sedan! Great daily!
What about that oil problem?
@@UnsettlingDwarf If it’s a 2011-2012 it doesn’t have the problem. They addressed the problem on the updated engine.
I currently have one I've dealt with some problems with the oil as I know there's an oil burning problem so you got to keep checking the oil because the engine also goes in the Camry or Corolla I believe and they have to drop the engine and replace stuff and Toyota says it's not worth it using a higher quality thicker oil works. Other than that I have no complaints about the vehicle. I do however suffering from a catalytic converter problem and I had to get the small one replaced and the big one is going to be a lot of money.
Only the 2.4 liter four cylinder had the problem 2006-2008. Ours is 2009 and consumes no oil between changes.
Space... You're right! I've fitted a full size fridge inside with all the doors closed. I was pushed again the steering wheel and my testicles were getting hot when I was turning, but that's just a detail. 😂
This is spot on. 2007 rav4 V6. It had thr sway bar problem and o2 sensor issue at around 110k miles. Replaced those, now going 🎉smoothly
You Ignored the biggest problem with this generation Rav4: OIL CONSUMPTION. It was mostly the 2006-2008 2.4L 4 cylinder, thousands of engines were even replaced by Toyota under a campaign up until about 2018. Even the 2.5L burns some oil. The V6 is immune to the problem but more likely to have oil leaks.
The real top 5 issues:
1. Gas is not self filling
2. Oil changes every 5k to 10k
3. Air filter gets dirty
4. Brakes wear out
5. Tires wear out
What I'm saying is these go 200k mi on nothing but basic maintenance.
+Rob Stop It Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto I forgot to say I had a headlight burn out and your video saved me the headache of figuring out what fasteners needed to come out. Thank you.
How about torque converter shudder? That is a VERY common issue with Rav4s. There were even recalls for some years.
My wife's 2010 RAV$ (4Cyl) now has 130K miles. Not one of those things that you have mentioned has failed yet. I have replaced the radiator, which I fortunately noticed when I open the hood for no reason. The hose was pretty much totally broken, it actually totally snapped just with the very slight touch I did. The left wheel bearing totally crapped out, due to water penetration which rusted the entire bearing. This al happned at 90K miles. To this date, just battery tires, and wiper blades that I regularly replaced. I drained and refilled twice the the ATF at 100K miles. Still drive like it was brand new to this date. The headlights are still clear since it was wrapped with 3M clear bra.
Cuanto. Balen. O. El. Presio
Same here. My 3rd gen rav 4 have 283k still none of the 5 problems
I have the same vehicle and have only had routine maintenance, tires, wipers, brakes, headlight bulbs, and batteries. Been a fantastic car. Going to keep it going until the doors fall off, if possible.
I have a 06 4cyl. Just hit 200k and only have had one or two of these problems. I'd drive to Florida and back (I live in Kentucky). It's amazing
I had zero problems in this video, but the exact problems you have wheel bearing and plastic radiator Y cracked. 100k miles
My 08 has 164k miles. Running like a beast ❤
Wow, you dive right in to the topic, direct, to the point with out 5 minutes of rambling!!
I subscribed!!!
🖖🇺🇦🙏
I had the 2010 rav for eleven years just traded it in on the 2021 hybrid the only problem I had in all them years was I done a left hand front strut other wise in was amazing bullet proof I used to drive it hard from day one and it never missed a beat
I have the same problem with mine ,, only problem in 12 years 400,000 km and still going hard
I have a 2007 rav4 and I have an evap canister check engine light along with two other lights. The code suggest I replace the canister. When I pump gas, it stops all the time and I already replace the gas cap. Also one of my spark plugs leaks oil into it too. Your video is spot on lol
How many miles is on your RAV4
@@Takumawakanda right now over 144k
Gotta love this series. So much better than the endless cabin air filter videos, ha ha.
We’ve got a 2010 rav, 280k kms, still going strong, no problems, chews a bit of oil these days, I’ve calculated about 10 litres per 10,000 km, sounds a lot , but that’s only 1 ml per km, easier to just top up every weekend than worry about the cost of replacing the engine or vehicle. Driving it till it dies
Hey! I'm considering buying one of these vehicles in a few months because I'm looking for something reliable and not too expensive to buy and keep, would you recommend it?
@@juanda1995 yes. i have one and it’s very noisy and loud engine but it will NEVER die. aslong as you keep up with the oil changes and top it up when it’s low it’ll last easily 300,000 miles
Ours is a 2009, it has 250k km, and the vvt rattle on cold starts, we already replaced the timing chain (caught it just as it was about to fail 😅)
It doesn't burn oil at all, but we are getting low gas performance, about 6 km/L (14 mpg) and I gotta say that I drive like a grandma on Sunday.
No check engine light or any other problems...
4 or 6 cylinder?
Own one as well, use some 'stop smoke' or stop leak, it usually works if the leak isn't too bad (worked on ours). Overall 240,000 kms and a bulletproof V6, can't complain.
Have a 11’ 4 cylinder rav 4, 186,000, diff leaks, burns oil a tad, still runs like a dream
I feel like Andy has owned every car he checks. At the same time, I’ve owned many of the same ones, so maybe I should shut my mouth hahaha!
I actually commented the same thing in one of the Durango videos I think. It’s kinda weird that he says that in almost every video, and also it’s weird that he says the Dodge Avenger is a “great car.”
I do not have any of those problems with 2008 rav4. Great information to look out for. Thanks.
Great info but you forgot to mention at what miles aprox all this problems begin or may appear...
Just picked 1 up....69k...super clean !!!
Roomy...great on gas...RAV4 is AWESOME !!!!🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲
what size engine , may i ask?
I really like this video and I have had some of these problems thanks for the info
No mention of the leaky rear diff seals? or possible rear diff bearing going bad?
Driving our RAV4 07 with 120K mileage. I will keep it until it will tell me he need to rest for good.😉
Thank you sir I learned now what causing my gas not fill so first i try gas cap
Thanks, I’ve got a 2011 with just 62K on it, bought it new, haven’t had any of those problems so far but will keep them in mind, I take very good care of my vehicle & plan on keeping it until it’s no longer reasonable to put money in it, hope it’s a very long time, like over 200K. It’s been a very good SUV, I’ve had no major repairs, just recently had to replace part of the exhaust for the first time.
I have a 2011 rav with 121k kms on it and hoping it'll go far past 200k kms. My 1st rav was a 97' and I sold it with over 500k kms on it!
Good info, if you do a video on replacing the rear reinforcement bar that would be great as im sure there are some rusting out like ours!
I have a 2007 Rav4 V6 Sport AWD with a leaking front differential. It's not leaking from the axel seals but it is leaking at the pinion seal from the driveshaft going to the rear differential and I'm told they have to remove the whole Engine, Transmission, Differential to fix? What do you think?
We have a 2009 RAV4. Ours has 71,415 miles on it. I just replaced the downstream O² sensor. The upstream sensor was replaced about six months ago. We also had the intermediate steering shaft replaced and (believe it or not) the transmission as well.
09 with 71,415 miles!!! Wow that's awesome, will have that car for a long time!! I have a 2011 with 146,000 and have had it since 13,000 miles. Been keeping up on maintenance and I replaced front end bushings and steering bushings but that's a Givin over time. Awesome cars
Did you ever change oil in the transmission?
@@Jakerz007 I just bought a 2011 rav sport (sap) with 121k kms on it. Hoping it'll last me a long time with proper maintenance.
@@yarpenzigrin1893 yes, I have the transmission flushed once every 2 oil changes.
Those are minimal and can be avoided/remedied through periodic/religious maintenance. 😊
Glad it's not engine, brakes and transmission issues compared to other makers cars belonging to that age group.
Given that is a Rav 4 pretty sure it's been great miles and rough conditions with at least 140 M on it.
2008 Rav are common for throwing a rod and needing a engine replacement
~320k on my 2012 2.5l. Still running strong!
yup, have had a few of these, but great car and relatively easy fixes.
Recently my 2011 rav4 V6 4WD has developed an intermittent engine surge while braking. 9 years no issues. Last month, while pressing the brake to slow down/stop, the engine surged and made the vehicle difficult to stop. If I hadn't put it into neutral, it would have rolled me into the intersection. I've had the same all weather mats in the vehicle since I've bought it. Not an issue for many years. All of a sudden this new issue acutely appeared. Read through the forums. Toyota blamed the floor mats with other vehicles reporting the same issue. I switched back to the Factory mats. It worked okay for a few days, then did exactly the same thing with the original equipment Toyota mats. It's not driver error, my foot was no where near the the accelerator when braking. No one seems to know the root cause. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and what the solution was that resolved the issue other than replacing the vehicle. There has to be a fix out there. Please let me know.
Thanks for sharing such great information.
For EVAP box, I have replaced it twice, yet the same Symptoms/errors codes are still there. Could you please enlighten me how I can fix this issue.
Thanking you in advance
my 2012 (4 cylinder) ran like dream for 260k miles but would burn a half quart every 750 miles or so. It was my dads 2nd car and I would drive it when I wasn’t at uni. today was my first day back from uni so i drove it for the first time in awhile and when i got to my destination across town, it started smoking and then went up in flames
Rav4 don't suppose to burn engine oil. Your car probably had a oil leak and since you hadn't driven or taken care of it for a while, the oil probably leaked out. Car without motor oil will burn because of the friction.
Dude, awesome videos... I live in Aussie Cobber Digger Land aka Australia. I own the same RAv4 and your level of explanation and detail are impeccable. Unfortunately we can't get your parts here in Australia and have to pay extortionate prices
Thanks for the video. I think my RAV4 needs new sway bar links.
I still drive my 2006 Rav I always maintain it put new part in it if needed. Such a reliable car 170,000 miles on it 4 cylinder engine and it still runs like new. Anything lasts long when you maintain it right. The only thing with the 4 cylinder engine is that it burns oil fast but I’m ok with that.
does it have the 2AZ-FE engine, that one was known to use oil after 70 thousand kilometers or so due to faulty oil rings. the engine model after that didn't have that problem, although some motors do use some when the miles get high.
I have an 09. I run nothing but mobile 1 full synthetic oil for high mileage. I have no leaks, my oil does not burn and I have 150k+ miles on it.
We have the newer AR-FE 2.5 liter engine in our 2009. Uses no oil between changes. I don't believer in using high mileage oil unless you have a problem with oil consumption.
There's nothing wrong with full synthetic Super Tech oil and that's what we use.
Very informative
1)Radiator hose plastic connector-known failure point
2)Agree on the coils,mine went bad on 2010
3)Wheel bearings went at 90K
Other than that very reliable vehicle,still going at 165,000 miles.I’m doing a suspension freshen up now.
With the price of new vehicles I’m gonna keep her running until a major failure point.I’ve never had a repair I couldn’t do myself,never had it at a mechanic other than inspection.
2008 Toyota rav 4 limited V6 220k miles and running happy! 😊
Thanks for the great info!
Thank you for Sharing
Can Evap Canister cause the Check Engine, 4WD, and VSC all at the same time and show an OBD scanner P0171 - Too Lean code? It has long starting whenever it engine has not for long periods like overnight.
This channel is very educational keep up the good work
Wow. Incredibly clear and competent.
My 2006 has none of these issues. Surprised he didn't call out the 2AZ-FE engine like I have. The one where the piston rings were installed incorrectly. Consumes oil so have to be vigilant as to oil level.
Happy to say, my 2010 4-cylinder has not had ONE of these problems yet... or any other major issue for that matter. What an awesome vehicle!
For the last twelve years, I have followed the recommended maintenance and have replaced brakes and tires when worn. That's it!
My biggest complaint is the overly-sensitive TPSM that never seems satisfied. I found your video today as I searched for ways to reset the sensors or disable the light altogether. Drives me nuts!
Currently I’m driving a2006. It was driving me crazy over couple months, starting and not starting until after 0-15!attempts. To my surprise, the dashboard wasn’t showing anything. So I grabbed my neighbor’s OBD reader, and it showed me a list of codes related to EVAP system issue. To make the story short, I replaced the purge valve, but I have to after other codes and god knows how much I spend on it before clearing all the codes. To be reasonable, I’ve had this car for 7 years no issues until this one، beside the rust, I’m telling you they’re horrible for rust
Is that it? Amazing vehicles. Still too much electronics, but hope for the best as I just purchased one.
My 2010 has 210k on it and it’s oil thirsty. Been looking for a leak but haven’t found anything. Loses about a quart every 1500-2000 miles. Pretty normal for a regularly maintained car?
Great video! Would you rather purchase 2010 Toyota Rav 4 sport with 150K miles @ $11.5K or 2006 RX400h w/ 120K miles for $10.5K? Let's assume both are in excellent condition. Both have a ll proper maintenances done. Thanks.
Please do a review on the first gen Rav4!
have a 2007 base, what's the best vacuum line to tap to perform a smoke test? Mine is throwing a P0171 and has for a while. O2 sensors, MAF, fuel filter, pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, PCV, all replaced. Amazingly hard to find a vacuum leak with other methods. Probably on there somewhere, but I'm not ruling out fuel pump, but I hear they hardly ever go bad. Will be testing fuel pressure too soon. Also, have the intake gasket in hand, but the carb cleaner check and vacuum pressure test seem to be okay.
Andy, nice seeing you again on the videos.. Looks like you lost some weight. Hope it wasn't the corona. Good health to you and the team at 1A auto. Cheers!
What about burning oil since they drilled the piston holds too small.
That was the 2.4 liter engine prior to 2009 in the US.
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 160K miles. I just replaced the sway bar links, and I have issues filling up the gas tank all the way similar to the #2 issue mentioned in this video.
Dont forget the rear diff Viscous coupler bearing making whining noise.
HI absolutely love your videos I've never done anything with cars but found you and I've already changed the front wiper motor on my rav. I'm just wandering if you have a video on how to change the fuel filter under the fuel pump in a toyota rav4 mk3 57 plate. Thanks
2010 rav4 sport with 110,000 miles. Check engine 4wd and traction control light on. Went to mechanic codes for evap canister and 02 sensor at the same time.
thank you so much
Great video.
You're a really cool dude!!!,😎😎😎
+haledragon1 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
We just bought a 2011 Rav4 2.5L with 152k miles from the original owner. Transmission fluid is black, but Toyota says it's not necessary to replace? PCV valve is likely defective so that would cause oil leaks, blow-by into the crankcase, and excessive oil usage. Luckily I haven't fount any oil leaks but seems to have a lot of blow-by in the oil.
I'm about to flush and change my ATF. I keep getting a shudder at 40mph in low rpm. Have you experienced this?
Many thanks...
I have a 2008 rav4 and a feel a little vibrations on the right hand side on dirt roads.
Hello I have a question for you? where is located the VVT filter of the rav4 2008
tanks.
Thanks.
Thanks
Another big problem on that generation of RAV4 not mentionned here is the drive shaft. At a certain point, the drive shaft bushing will jam (overall in the cold) and between 45-80kph it will shake. Quit costy to replace when it is the original shaft because the hole shaft as to be replace.
Sounds like you got shafted 😝
If you want to fix the timing cover leak for the V6 3.5L do you need to pull the engine out ?
Would y recommend purchasing a 2007 or 2008 rav 4 and which one should last the longest thanks
Thanks!!!
Top radiator hose leak is very common. Hose bust at small hose connector at main hose. Probably more common than anything mentioned here.
Love ❤️ Love ❤️ Love ❤️
I have a 2010 4 cylinder rav 4 it only has 88,000 miles on it but I had to get evap canister it was idling rough and it would cut out a few times prior to having the evap canister replaced . It was running fine for a month and now it just started happening again I would see the maintenance required light start blinking then go off then a few minutes later it started idling rough and cut out it happened 5 times in row I managed to get home parked it very frustrating
I’m about to buy one 2007 but I notice the back tires they are no even from inside ., is that do you think people put a lot of weight do you think if I put new tires it will damage my tires again?
got a 2010 rav 4 4cyl with 4wd, i got a check engine light for a misfire (sometimes) and a crank sensor circuit, my mechanic recommended not replacing it because on his data log it seemed more like a reluctor wheel. the engine starts up usually on the first couple cranks and only feels luggish occasionally when i step on it, you think my mechanic is wrong and the sensor actually is bad or is it likely the reluctor wheel is broken. im lost here
We haven't noticed any of these problems with our 2009 RAV4 which has 62,600 miles on it. Maybe later. We have noticed that the ATF fluid is often 20⁰ to 30⁰F hotter than it should be so we change the fluid more often.
4 Cyl or 6?
@@Probe253
4 cylinder... 2.5 liter AR-FE with 4 speed automatic. Six cylinder has a 5 speed automatic.
See my updated post. Ours has over 71,000 miles now. Transmission was replaced as was the intermediate steering shaft and both O² sensors. Transmission and steering shaft were covered 100% by aftermarket warranty.
This video is not for v6 model .... Happy for me
09 at 312000, rear diff vent plugged and forcing oil out axle seals. No other issues. Best car I've owned.
Can you help with some advice, I have a strange sound coming from the engine air filter box. RAV4 III 2007, 2.2D
What year rav4 is in the video? I have done research saying not to buy 2007-2008 models but to buy the 09-10 models instead. I am currently looking at buying one with 4x4, V6 in either the limited or Sport. And what some forums and websites are suggesting is that the later models are a little easier to deal with in terms of maintenance and problems.
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
Thanks for this video, does the oil leaks happen on a 4 cylinder 4WD with approximately 100k miles on it? 2010?
That engine is renowned for using oil. Bad design. It’s the same issue for all Toyota’s with that engine.
I have a 2009 and a 2011 Rav4, both with 4 cylinder engines and over 100k miles. No oil leaks on either one. Great vehicles.
@@Kingfisher1215
I think you may be confusing the 2.4 liter engine with the 2.5 liter engine. The 2.5 liter first made it's appearance in the 2009 RAV4 in the 2009 model year in the USA.
My experience with O2 sensors going bad is vehicle is the engine is burning oil which fouls the sensors (and catalytic converter) Changing O2 sensors is a bandaid solution.
Any videos covering 2006 Honda Pilot?
If you get your oil changed at Fred Haas be careful that they don’t strip the oil pan by over tightening then calling it normal wear & tear. It will cost you to to replace the oil pan. Good job boys.
Have you heard of any 2007 having problems with the voltage regulator and is it hard to replace on this car? So frustrating.
I have a v6. 2008 rav4 can you tell me how many oxygen sensor is it ?
Where do you learn all these ????
Is the can converter near the engine on these 3rd generations? I see what looks like one closer to the muffler. Maybe it has two ?
Four cylinder only has one catalytic converter.
Thank you so much for this video
I own a 2007 it has 178,000 miles it consumes oil, but I just add a qt. Every 500 to 600 miles, and I have a 2012 193,000 miles and is no problem with oil consumption, both vehicles are reliable no issues what so ever. Great on gas.
What do you think about the piston ring issue on the early motor, is it as bad as they say?
we have 2 rav4 in the family a 2011 and a 2007 in Australia both have the older 2AZ engine and both use oil, we don't have the cold winter problem ,so run 10w-40 full syn oil and can also run 10w-50, but l hav not tried that yet. both cars are family favourites
Any advice on my 2005 toyota rav4, not economizing fuel whenever the AC is on?
+Adebayo Aladebo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How much should I spend on a tensioner? I'm seeing prices from $30 to $300. Dont want to buy bootleg but also dont want to over pay.
What the diff leaks? Bad breather issues?
Got an 09 with 240k miles. Hoping it’ll last as long as my 02 tundra has, it’s got 300k
2006 toyota rav4
237,000 miles
Only thing we've needed is a pully and tensioner because it randomly shredded the belt
Love my V6 vanguard
I have a 2008 v4 i always forget its a 4 cylinder because its got so much pep and pickup. For its size and being v4 its shocking to most people when they hear its not a v6. And like i said im always forgetting its v4, it performs above any v4 ive owned. Other than my ex honda civic that was tricked out. The rav has constantly had o2 sensor problems. Im always resetting the indicator lights in between so called repair of the o2. And my only other problem with the rav is with some parts like the horn thats gone bad in mine, the replacement process is a nightmare and completely inconvenient to fix. Many things have to have practically the whole front end removed to replace a 12 dollar part etc. Other than that its one of the best running cars ive driven.
Hi
My 08 toyota rav4 check engine and 4×4 lights came on and stayed on, after using my alarm to reset the ignition to start . Any suggestions, thanks