NOTICE: Use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and lift the metal frame brace along the edge of the pan out of the way and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling and chewed knuckles getting the three difficult pan bolts out! I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out by fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket. I appreciated torque specs being included in this video (that said, I guessed at the torque of the frame bolts when reinstalling and went with 80 ft lbs, considering them similar to a wheel lug.)
Did I miss the size of the fluid pan bolts, that's the only one I was wanting to know and I think the only one I didn't hear, looking at this for someone else
Hi! It seems, now dont quote me on this, the correct torque spec for re-installation of this member is 70 ft/lbs. I found a factory service manual image of the "front suspension crossmember sub-assembly" of an 06 Rav V6 4x4 🫡
Wow, a mechanic that properly vents exhaust gases! I couldn't get the idiots I worked with to do that. We even had a vacuum system. They refused to hook up. Makes me happy to be out of the shop.
@@db5112 I really haven't noticed any difference in shifting because my rav4 has always shifted smoothly. What was fascinating about changing the fluid and filter at 160,000 miles was how pristine the transmission was. When cleaning the transmission magnets I had hardly any metal shavings on the magnets and the original transmission filter was about as clean as I have ever seen. The lack of metal shavings on the magnets or in the filter was a solid indicator that the transmission is working about as efficient as possible. My 2008 rav4 is now at 190,000 so I will be changing the transmission fluid again this summer. I wish you good luck and have a grrrreat day!
I wish I could find a mechanic who was as competent and thorough as you are! Most just want to get finished, rush through the job, would never consider using a torque wrench for this type of service. Thank you!
I have read on Toyota forums about people's transmissions shifting odd after using Valvoline Max Life instead of Toyota WS fluid. In fact, one guy then drained the Max Life, replaced with Toyota WS, and the issue went away. I will stick with Toyota WS.
A combined 945k miles between my three Toyotas that require WS fluid, have done drain and fills with Maxlife on all of them multiple times over all the years of ownership….zero issues
Definitely. I changed the fluid and filter in my 2010 RAV4 and had to drive it until fully warmed up to read the dipstick accurately. Also the Toyota WS ATF fluid seems light in color and was very difficult to see on the transmission dipstick. The Toyota ATF fluid doesn't appear to be synthetic as it doesn't say synthetic on the bottles and at around $10 a quart next time I'll use the Valvoline synthetic that's WS compatible at $4.50 a quart (walmart). It took 5 quarts to fill it up not the 4 quarts some videos have stated. I spent more time filling up the transmission fluid level correctly than I did replacing the filter!
Hola hoy cambié el aceite de mi transmisión Toyota rav4 2005 anda 185,000 millas tenía mucho miedo que me quedara fallando saqué el aceite muy quemado luego el filtro armé hecha cuatro litros y calenté pase las velocidades p,n,R,D,2,L estacionado 10 segundos casa marcha cale el carro y me quedó super 👏🏽👏🏽 la otra semana drenare de nuevo y le pondré nuevo lo are tres veces la tercera semana cambiare filtro de nuevo asta que quede líquido nuevo 😊saludos desde new Orleans
How much ATF is "left behind" in the converter and tranny when this procedure is done? I suppose that fluid is simply mixed in with new fluid- correct? Thanks, Brian
Yes, the new and undrained old fluid mixes. There's a fair bit of fluid that doesn't drain when replacing the filter (cooler/converter). You have to do a flush/exchange to replace all the fluid. th-cam.com/video/ntFVCVW-lG8/w-d-xo.html
Does your Rav4 have a sticker on the transmission fluid dipstick reading " Do not change ATF under normal driving conditions " ? How many miles on your Rav 4 ? Would like anyones thoughts on transmission shock. Thanks
@@baron7024 change the fluid dont go by the sticker, its an eco tax thing just like the 5w30 thing. Do some research ull see how we the consumers are getting bent over
what i found out from another vid you can drop that side rail that will give you more clearance..stay with the oem filter and oil less trouble that way..4 17mm bolts.
This is absolutely right -- use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling getting the bolts out. I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket.
Good video thanks its well done. But I would use the Toyota filter, and Toyota AT fluid exclusively only. I'm not a Toyota driver or owner but I do know the value in using OEM's fluid and filters for this type of service. Plus that old fluid is toast by it's appearance, So I'd put the 3. 8 in as you mentioned. With one exception. I'd remove a transmission cooler inlet cooler line or the outlet one, whichever is most accessible and temp reinstall it so it can be easily removed. Then I'd start the engine and run it cycling shifting as you did briefly. The transmissions circuit will have fluid in it already as it doesn drain out from the pan. I'd drain 1 qt or 1 Liter from the disconnected line until the remaining old fluid has cycled out through the the cooler as it's supposed to do (stop the engine each time to avoide a spill and draining to much fluid at a time and allows the fluid to be added slowly through the dipstick holder or a fill bolt hole). Do this before replacing the removed under covers. You need someone to assist you to do this as you drain 1 out and put 1 in. I'm guessing the Rave 4 transmission holds about 9 ~ 12 guarts? So what this does is take the remaining old fluid in the torque converter and the trans mission circuit and allows it to be purged through a cooler line until it's changed out. Find out what the transmission AT fluid capacity is. If you buy OEM fluid and filter ask the dealer for the transmission fluid capacity before you buy from them, they'll usually accommodate you. I'll leave it at that. If your not able to understand the procedure mentioned or unsure research this on TH-cam and get a basic understanding of an AT. The Toyota shown has a drain in the oil pan and allows you to drain most of the sumps fluid. Typical of Japanese manufacturers to do this, not so with domestic ones where the pan allows all the fluid to spill out on removal as it has no drain bolt = messy. Have plenty of cardboard on hand and use it liberally to cover the proposed drain area.
Use the Toyota fluid, WS type more than likely. Valvoline makes a WS (World Standard) synthetic fluid for these as well. I have a V6. Check and make sure you use what your specific car calls for. It should say on your dipstick
For those who want a complete fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp. 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the trans, torque converter, and radiator cooler with All New fluid. Happy motoring!
Perhaps rather than exchanging 40% New into 60% Old by "Pan-Drain"; making a Second Video demonstrating a 100% New "FULL-FLUSH" method as described above. It certainly is better for the transmission than the much more expensive commercial-machine Pressure-Flush which provides a 100% New, without the risk of damage to the transmission seals. People come to your channel because they trust working on their own vehicles (-vs being ripped off) and like saving money. So please consider a Video demonstrating this more efficient method. -- Your viewers will flock to see it!
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 92,000 miles I know the transmission fluid needs to be replaced should the filter also be replaced @ this interval I priced this it's expensive. What do you suggest?
Toyota says to inspect the fluid every 60k and replace as needed. If your fluid is beginning to brown from its original clear pink, or is beginning to have a burnt smell, you need to replace it. A complete exchange (flush) is the appropriate replacement of the fluid. A drain and fill (as shown in this video) doesn't replace all the fluid in the system. Toyota doesn't have a recommendation mileage interval on the filter because they utilize a strainer/filter rather than a standard paper filter. It's my personal preference to replace both the fluid and filter when doing the service.
Good video. I have a car Toyota RAV4 2008 limited. It’s nice car. You video is help me for many questions. Thanks. I hope will many video about thise car
Ideally you would replace the filter, add fluid to the pan, disconnect the cooler line, and go straight into the flush service. This wastes the least amount of fluid and gives the first engine start a clean push of fluid through the filter and transmission.
My car is RAV4 2008 4WD Say, my friend, when I am driving my car and when I reach a speed of 20 km / h, I hear a slight sound (whoop whop whop) the speed increases and the sound disappears when I reach a speed of 40km/h I hear it again and clearly as I mentioned to you like the sound of Bearing, but it is not continuous and intermittent like this (whop whop whop) When the speed goes up to more than 40 km/h speeds and the sound disappears completely, if the speed goes up as it did, the sound will not come back Secondly, this sound only appears when the car is accelerating while I am stepping on the fuel , for example, when I am on a slope and the car is running by itself, I keep at 20 or 40km/h speed, there is no sound at all. But if I am driving on a flat road and I am stepping on the fuel the sound appears first at a speed of 20 km/h then disappear then appear at speed of 40 km/h as I mentioned earlier I went to the mechanics for the first time, and he told me to check the difference oil. I checked it and changed it as well, and the sound is still the same I went to a mechanic again and lifted the car and let the car move while we were lifting it. The mechanic is trying to hear the source of the sound, especially at the differential, and the sound of the differential is normal and there is no sound. The mechanic tried to lift each wheel alone, there was a weak sound in the lift frontal wheel bearing, and the rest were intact But the front bearing barely appeared, only when that tire was raised, and when the car was fully raised, it did not appear If you please, as long as the agency and your engineers are experienced and competent Can you tell me what is the possible cause Is this problem as I described it, could it be the source of corona Please report the problem to your mechanic and answer me Thank you very much and appreciation
I went to the toyota dealer to change the aft and he didn't want to do the aft change because according to them its use for life! My 2011 RAV4 has 150k miles on it, I have had no problems so far with the automatic transmission, should I change the aft anyway?
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NOTICE: Use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and lift the metal frame brace along the edge of the pan out of the way and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling and chewed knuckles getting the three difficult pan bolts out! I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out by fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket. I appreciated torque specs being included in this video (that said, I guessed at the torque of the frame bolts when reinstalling and went with 80 ft lbs, considering them similar to a wheel lug.)
Thank you a year later for saying this out loud.
Did I miss the size of the fluid pan bolts, that's the only one I was wanting to know and I think the only one I didn't hear, looking at this for someone else
@@bicycless211 10s, I believe
Thanks on the bolt size
Hi! It seems, now dont quote me on this, the correct torque spec for re-installation of this member is 70 ft/lbs. I found a factory service manual image of the "front suspension crossmember sub-assembly" of an 06 Rav V6 4x4 🫡
One of the best fluid changes I’ve seen.
This is definitely one of the best instructional I’ve seen lol no bullshit just clear steps to follow and easy to keep up, gonna be doing mine soon
Nice job.
I would measure the amount drained at put back the same amount to take out the guess work
Wow, a mechanic that properly vents exhaust gases! I couldn't get the idiots I worked with to do that. We even had a vacuum system. They refused to hook up. Makes me happy to be out of the shop.
I would call this a "clean and perfect job". I really liked the way you did it mate. Thanks for sharing!
Just changed my trans fluid and filter on my 2008 rav4. Your video was an excellent tutorial. Thank you for taking the time and effort to post.
How do you feel it , it's smoother when shifting?
@@db5112 I really haven't noticed any difference in shifting because my rav4 has always shifted smoothly. What was fascinating about changing the fluid and filter at 160,000 miles was how pristine the transmission was. When cleaning the transmission magnets I had hardly any metal shavings on the magnets and the original transmission filter was about as clean as I have ever seen. The lack of metal shavings on the magnets or in the filter was a solid indicator that the transmission is working about as efficient as possible. My 2008 rav4 is now at 190,000 so I will be changing the transmission fluid again this summer. I wish you good luck and have a grrrreat day!
@@teddymac3737 thanks for the reply!. Now I feel way better about changing mine. It is actually 156000 miles. I though it was too late.
I wish I could find a mechanic who was as competent and thorough as you are! Most just want to get finished, rush through the job, would never consider using a torque wrench for this type of service. Thank you!
Be your own! Saves soooooo much wasted money
I have never used a Torque wrench. I don't even have one and I fix my own cars. Never had a single problem.
I second that!
Top-notch instructional video; clear & concise. Thank You!
Best description on TH-cam. Nice job! Is this the same process and part numbers for the v6?
Once somebody confirms this please respond to the question for future viewers. About ready to do this job myself and searching for tips.
The V6 had a 5 speed transmission whereas this one's the 4 speed, although it might be similar up to the pan removal.
Is it the same process for the 3.5 v6
RAV4
👍video super still subtitles in Russian
I have read on Toyota forums about people's transmissions shifting odd after using Valvoline Max Life instead of Toyota WS fluid. In fact, one guy then drained the Max Life, replaced with Toyota WS, and the issue went away. I will stick with Toyota WS.
A combined 945k miles between my three Toyotas that require WS fluid, have done drain and fills with Maxlife on all of them multiple times over all the years of ownership….zero issues
I would say it’s better to check the level after u warm the car up until it reaches the operating temperature. It will be more accurate.
Definitely. I changed the fluid and filter in my 2010 RAV4 and had to drive it until fully warmed up to read the dipstick accurately. Also the Toyota WS ATF fluid seems light in color and was very difficult to see on the transmission dipstick. The Toyota ATF fluid doesn't appear to be synthetic as it doesn't say synthetic on the bottles and at around $10 a quart next time I'll use the Valvoline synthetic that's WS compatible at $4.50 a quart (walmart). It took 5 quarts to fill it up not the 4 quarts some videos have stated. I spent more time filling up the transmission fluid level correctly than I did replacing the filter!
Thorough job! Your customers are fortunate to have you to work on their cars.
Hola hoy cambié el aceite de mi transmisión Toyota rav4 2005 anda 185,000 millas tenía mucho miedo que me quedara fallando saqué el aceite muy quemado luego el filtro armé hecha cuatro litros y calenté pase las velocidades p,n,R,D,2,L estacionado 10 segundos casa marcha cale el carro y me quedó super 👏🏽👏🏽 la otra semana drenare de nuevo y le pondré nuevo lo are tres veces la tercera semana cambiare filtro de nuevo asta que quede líquido nuevo 😊saludos desde new Orleans
Funnel can be cleaned with soapy water
Thanks for sharing. No BS no fillers nice job👍
How much ATF is "left behind" in the converter and tranny when this procedure is done? I suppose that fluid is simply mixed in with new fluid- correct? Thanks, Brian
Yes, the new and undrained old fluid mixes. There's a fair bit of fluid that doesn't drain when replacing the filter (cooler/converter). You have to do a flush/exchange to replace all the fluid.
th-cam.com/video/ntFVCVW-lG8/w-d-xo.html
Nice video good Job
Please post more of 2008 RAV4 ? Thanks
Thank you MasterJacks. This will be my next project for my 2007 RAV4.
Does your Rav4 have a sticker on the transmission fluid dipstick reading " Do not change ATF under normal driving conditions " ? How many miles on your Rav 4 ? Would like anyones thoughts on transmission shock. Thanks
@@baron7024 change the fluid dont go by the sticker, its an eco tax thing just like the 5w30 thing. Do some research ull see how we the consumers are getting bent over
Excellent video, thanks for sharing
Agradecería enormemente , que toda esa información se tradujera siempre al español .
Great job keep the videos coming fir the 2008 rav4 very helpful. Thank you
Gran. Video mr jachs buena enseñanza. Saludos. Mr. De mexico jalisco. Gracias. Maestro.
that bolts that u screw while helping with a driver. U need to unscrew the metal thing that prevents good access to them.
Brilliant! Super clear info. (Are you an AME?)
is this the same process for the v6?
I really appreciate you sharing your Passion thank you for taking the time to make an awesome video.
Muchas gracias esto me ayudó bastante 👍😎
I dont have torque wrench. Would you say 1/8 turn after tightening by hand is about 68 in-lbs?
Toyota WS is Dexron II, which ain't good.
I accidentally broke 2 of the bolts when I torqued them down.
I accidentally did 67ft. Lbs.
Instead of 67in. Lbs.
what i found out from another vid you can drop that side rail that will give you more clearance..stay with the oem filter and oil less trouble that way..4 17mm bolts.
This is absolutely right -- use your breaker bar or impact and crack off those 17 mm bolts in about a minute and save yourself 45 minutes of fiddling getting the bolts out. I didn't realize that until I'd gotten them out fiddling, and it really would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Plus, now you can get your torque wrench on all 18 of them for the reinstallation instead of guessing at torque for an entire corner of the gasket.
Good video thanks its well done. But I would use the Toyota filter, and Toyota AT fluid exclusively only. I'm not a Toyota driver or owner but I do know the value in using OEM's fluid and filters for this type of service.
Plus that old fluid is toast by it's appearance, So I'd put the 3. 8 in as you mentioned. With one exception. I'd remove a transmission cooler inlet cooler line or the outlet one, whichever is most accessible and temp reinstall it so it can be easily removed. Then I'd start the engine and run it cycling shifting as you did briefly. The transmissions circuit will have fluid in it already as it doesn drain out from the pan.
I'd drain 1 qt or 1 Liter from the disconnected line until the remaining old fluid has cycled out through the the cooler as it's supposed to do (stop the engine each time to avoide a spill and draining to much fluid at a time and allows the fluid to be added slowly through the dipstick holder or a fill bolt hole). Do this before replacing the removed under covers. You need someone to assist you to do this as you drain 1 out and put 1 in. I'm guessing the Rave 4 transmission holds about 9 ~ 12 guarts? So what this does is take the remaining old fluid in the torque converter and the trans mission circuit and allows it to be purged through a cooler line until it's changed out. Find out what the transmission AT fluid capacity is. If you buy OEM fluid and filter ask the dealer for the transmission fluid capacity before you buy from them, they'll usually accommodate you.
I'll leave it at that. If your not able to understand the procedure mentioned or unsure research this on TH-cam and get a basic understanding of an AT. The Toyota shown has a drain in the oil pan and allows you to drain most of the sumps fluid. Typical of Japanese manufacturers to do this, not so with domestic ones where the pan allows all the fluid to spill out on removal as it has no drain bolt = messy. Have plenty of cardboard on hand and use it liberally to cover the proposed drain area.
Your transmission fluid video is very informative and easy to follow..Thanks...
best video I ever seen too very clear explanation 👍🏼👍🏼
Where do you live. You made a perfect job. Thank you.
What is the purpose of that small hole just to the inside of the transmission oil pan?
The photography in the video is very professional.
Ever see anyone examine the filter after replaced.?Just curious if anyone has and how dirty it was?
I wouldn't trust maxlife fluid in a toyota. I wouldn't roll the dice because transmissions are too expensive.
Thank you for the guide and the torque specs.
Nice now I can change out the trans fluid on my wife rav4 keep it up
Thanks alot you help me so much wy my rav4 2012
Man, that old fluid was NASTY. way overdue for a change.
What fluid do you recommend I put on a Rav4 model 2011 with 150,000 km? The fluid was never replaced and the Toyota recommended that I leave it to it!
Use the Toyota fluid, WS type more than likely. Valvoline makes a WS (World Standard) synthetic fluid for these as well. I have a V6. Check and make sure you use what your specific car calls for. It should say on your dipstick
yeah definitely use the toyota ATF black bottle transmission fluid not that junk from walmart lol
Nice work man
Awesome video, Good to know the atf I used for my cobalt is also good for my dads rav4 :3
For those who want a complete fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange:
1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended.
2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp.
3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills).
4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan.
5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel).
6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine.
7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW.
8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing.
9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line.
10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark).
11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark.
12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins.
13.) This should replace the trans, torque converter, and radiator cooler with All New fluid.
Happy motoring!
th-cam.com/video/ntFVCVW-lG8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BPdzXFd7nSZTp2E5
Perhaps rather than exchanging 40% New into 60% Old by "Pan-Drain"; making a Second Video demonstrating a 100% New "FULL-FLUSH" method as described above. It certainly is better for the transmission than the much more expensive commercial-machine Pressure-Flush which provides a 100% New, without the risk of damage to the transmission seals.
People come to your channel because they trust working on their own vehicles (-vs being ripped off) and like saving money. So please consider a Video demonstrating this more efficient method. -- Your viewers will flock to see it!
This is a perfect how to video. Thank you
Next time take that piece of stiffener that blocking the bolts . It got 4 bolt
Great vid, nice work, man
Valvoline (VAL VUH LEENE) not Line as in a straight line 🤦 Valvoleene Valvoline
Thanks for this very informative video.
Nice
awesome stuff not to much talk all informative. top notch
A local tire shop ballparked $400 to service the transmission! I said I will learn to do it.
Get the Toyota fluid, not like this guy.
Excellent- thank you
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 92,000 miles I know the transmission fluid needs to be replaced should the filter also be replaced @ this interval I priced this it's expensive. What do you suggest?
Toyota says to inspect the fluid every 60k and replace as needed. If your fluid is beginning to brown from its original clear pink, or is beginning to have a burnt smell, you need to replace it. A complete exchange (flush) is the appropriate replacement of the fluid. A drain and fill (as shown in this video) doesn't replace all the fluid in the system. Toyota doesn't have a recommendation mileage interval on the filter because they utilize a strainer/filter rather than a standard paper filter. It's my personal preference to replace both the fluid and filter when doing the service.
Nice video Thanks !🍻
Nice video thanks mate 👍🏼
On 1:30, i just removed the damn bar and had full access to pan. Nothing fell out lol.
and 4:47, the engineers that designed that support bar need to be forced to drop and drain a 1000 Ravs as punishment.
Thanks for video
That coolant reservoir looked dry
I liked,I subscribed,thanks,MAN
Good video. I have a car Toyota RAV4 2008 limited. It’s nice car. You video is help me for many questions. Thanks. I hope will many video about thise car
This one, and a few of your other videos, have helped me quite a bit. It's a nice tight presentation of all the information you need to do the job.
Great video! I've seen you have another video on how to flush the fluid, changing the filter would before or after flush the transmission fluid?
Ideally you would replace the filter, add fluid to the pan, disconnect the cooler line, and go straight into the flush service. This wastes the least amount of fluid and gives the first engine start a clean push of fluid through the filter and transmission.
Thank you so much
Awesome video ! thx ! :D
عاشت ايدك..
Well presented and clear. Like the narration to the vid.
Nicely done video
Fuck i converted inch pounds wrong and snapped a bolt lol
how much liter take with filter A/T
3.8L
or
4L
This one needed 4qts, make sure to verify the level on the dip stick.
Hello İstanbul 1600cc otomatik selenoid problem 1998.mutsubısı.mazda.hundai selenoid problem video
Very well done!
Buenas saludo desde argentina -chubut necesito saber si toyota hilux 3 0 2008 automati debo cambiar filtro de aceite de trasmision. Tiene 200mil klm
Thanks the best one to the point and short. Perfect.
Excellent job
Someone knows if v6 Trasmisión get more oil than a 4 cylinder trasmision or is the same 3.8 quarts, 🤔🤔 I didn't know that.
The V6 drain and fill is 3.8qts
@@MasterJacks thanks for the answers bro 😁😁😁
How many miles did your fluid have on it?
Great video. What's the difference between Valvoline DEXRON®-VI ATF Full Synthetic vs Valvoline DEXRON®-VI ATF Full Synthetic?
I’ve done brakes, oil changes.. even rebuilt a few engines, but the oil housing on my wife’s 2018 Rav4 is the STUPIDEST I’ve ever seen.
show 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🇧🇷
How does Valvoline ATF Full Synthetic compare to BG ATF Synthetic, does it foam up?
Good vid
Nice job on the video! Very well done. Put a link for the fluid in your description.
My car is RAV4 2008 4WD
Say, my friend, when I am driving my car and when I reach a speed of 20 km / h, I hear a slight sound (whoop whop whop) the speed increases and the sound disappears when I reach a speed of 40km/h I hear it again and clearly as I mentioned to you like the sound of Bearing, but it is not continuous and intermittent like this (whop whop whop) When the speed goes up to more than 40 km/h speeds and the sound disappears completely, if the speed goes up as it did, the
sound will not come back
Secondly, this sound only appears when the car is accelerating while I am stepping on the fuel , for example, when I am on a slope and the car is running by itself, I keep at 20 or 40km/h speed, there is no sound at all.
But if I am driving on a flat road and I am stepping on the fuel the sound appears first at a speed of 20 km/h then disappear then appear at speed of 40 km/h as I mentioned earlier
I went to the mechanics for the first time, and he told me to check the difference oil. I checked it and changed it as well, and the sound is still the same
I went to a mechanic again and lifted the car and let the car move while we were lifting it. The mechanic is trying to hear the source of the sound, especially at the differential, and the sound of the differential is normal and there is no sound.
The mechanic tried to lift each wheel alone, there was a weak sound in the lift frontal wheel bearing, and the rest were intact
But the front bearing barely appeared, only when that tire was raised, and when the car was fully raised, it did not appear
If you please, as long as the agency and your engineers are experienced and competent
Can you tell me what is the possible cause
Is this problem as I described it, could it be the source of corona
Please report the problem to your mechanic
and answer me
Thank you very much and appreciation
How many liters for my rav4 v6 engine
Excellent demo 🏌️
Yes , that's the best way to change transmission fluid so all oil has flushed nothing remained thanks for sharing
Nice one 👍
Typical Toyota! Unnecessarily complicated and messy. Why can't Toyota improve their design?
Nice video good Job
I went to the toyota dealer to change the aft and he didn't want to do the aft change because according to them its use for life! My 2011 RAV4 has 150k miles on it, I have had no problems so far with the automatic transmission, should I change the aft anyway?
When replacing the valve body wire (transmission wire) do I need to drop the transmission filter? Or I can maneuver my way around it?
What about a v-6 engine.. DUH..