Printing Miniatures on the WORLD'S BEST FDM PRINTER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2023
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00:00 - Intro - บันเทิง
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Honestly, as someone who has had FDM printers for over a decade now, it's not slicer settings. It's the precision of the printer. If the printer isn't meticulously aligned, maintained, lubricated, etc. then the layers won't be extruded exactly the same or laid down in the exact coordinates. Look at MirageC's tests into z wobble/z banding and the tests that have been done. A super small diameter difference in an extruder gear can cause layer lines to show in your print regardless of your slicer settings.
EXACTLY!! Sooooo many variables to getting pristine prints regardless of the size...no substitute for lots of experience and filament! 😂
And don’t forget the filament diameter changes.
FDM simply is not as precise as resin is. Resin uses a screen, it has incredible precision FDM extrudes a noodle which already has tolerances, like all the other mechanical parts do, it is simply not doable to that scale. Now you could xreate your own FDM printer with a 1mm filament diameter and very precise worm gears etc. but it would still be very very slow. It´s just how that is.
@@sierraecho884 exactly. if details is the focus, there is no reason to not go resin printing. When you choose FDM you are accepting you either need to do a lot of postprocessing or are okay with some degree of layer lines for the time taken.
With enough prints on a plate, resin printing is even faster than FDM as well.
This makes me wonder if a theoretical "mini quality" fdm could be done with a very small build plate and accompanyingly fine gearing and motors. Though I doubt that would wholly solve the maintenance issue.
Layer lines are a reality, I'm glad to hear people aren't so stuck up on them and they just enjoy painting and gaming.
I have an X1C and print a lot of dnd minis with it. Yes it takes longer, but it’s a happy choice I make. I print with a .2 nozzle, for npcs I choose either a .8 or .1 layer height, for a group of skeletons it’s fine if there is some layer lines. Honestly, at any distance greater then 6 inches no one sees them. For player characters I do a .04 layer height and honestly it’s so smooth you almost can’t tell it’s fdm printing. I noticed stringing, you need to dial in the filament settings more, it will help. As to using resin style prints, I do it all the time, the supports are for the most part easier to remove. Now there are some models that just don’t work well with that style, so I print regular with tree supports and it’s done well..
Do you print the model separately from the base plate?
It's not a 0.02 nozzle as you say at @02:05 'ish, and in your blurb. Its 0.2 and we have them on almost every fdm printer. FDM is great for terrain. For minis I suggest priming with vallejo airbrush primer.
I printed minis for a good year or so on my Ender 3 before I got into resin and it was a pretty big learning curve, very slow but certainly achievable (although not to resin standards) As you say it really depends on the model, Duncan Louca's work is awesome and also DragonLock are good too... I still have two minis, a minotaur and a zombie bug bear (Loot Studios) in my display cabinet that I regularly forget are FDM until I pick them up. With the right painting techniques and a foot or so of distance they look pretty cool!
2:40 the difference is not just a fan, the complete assembly also comes with heater and thermistor, so it's much more work than just 2 screws. I would suggest buying the whole asembly to most people, and only buying the hotend itself if they end up with multiple used nozzles. Most people would probably only need one for a year or more (assuming it's the hardened one and they aren't abusing it heavily).
Ah, didn’t realise this. I’ll stick to the one with the fan then?
@@FauxHammer yeah, that's just 2 screws :)
They don't make the 0.2mm in hardened steel, mostly because abrasive filaments usually won't fit through a nozzle that small - but yeah, was just going to post this same comment and then realised the video was days old and figured I'd check to see if someone else beat me to it. :)
I know you said you were asked to do this, but I am grateful you did. I learned about a new sculptor, you answered a few questions I had about the X1 c, and showed a "print painted" wargame forge building which I wanted to print similarly.
a recommendation for dealing with layer artifacts: knock down the outer wall acceleration and decrease the OW speed by a decent margin. Also, in the Quality tab, set the print order to outer/inner/infill. It's not perfect, but i found it gave me much better results, and it's a staple part of my standard profile
I’ll have a go at this and try again, thanks
I am working on some minis for Christmas gifts. I have done some in the past with 0.4mm nozzle and it did well just slowed everything down massively. But because I am lazy just used the "silent" mode on the bambu. I was happy with the results and did some of the tricks mentioned by 3D printing DM.
This time I am going to attempt the 0.2mm nozzle since the models are very tiny. I well expect them to take a few days and I was recommended to switch to silk PLA to help with the extrusion issues. We will see...
@@FauxHammer @8:24 you can see the building lifting off the plate, when printing PLA you'll want to remove the top glass to avoid warping and heat creep. Like many others pointed out slow it down and run some tests using different infill patterns that will speed up the process and not affect the surface quality. I would also look into using plastic that can be sanded easily, there's many options like ABS or cosPLA that will allow light sanding on surfaces. Another thing with ABS is the ability to smooth with acetone that chemically melts the outer layer to a gloss like finish.
Okay so I've been working on this for a little while, and I might have a profile for a P1P that works pretty decent at least to my standards. But there's also some setup with the model that you got to do. So the big one that I found that helps the most is you need to cut the model in half vertically so that each side only has one arm and one leg, this allows you to print with supports so they're supporting the more hidden side of the model (under the arm, between the legs). It makes a huge difference. Also I recommend adding pinholes with undersized pins just to help with alignment (you can do that in the slicer) and if you have a soldering iron you can smooth over that seem between the two parts if it wasn't put back together perfectly (a lot of times it's not necessary as they fit well) and you can smooth over those support points.
I'm still playing around with it and now that there's 0.06 profile I'll have to try that and see how it comes out.
Mind you, I am not a painter, I hate painting minis (too boring, plenty of other hobbies), so I don't paint them or just pay my friends to do it (also sometimes make like weapons different colors from the body since they're usually separated prints). My point is it's not going to come out resin quality good, but my friends with resin printers really complimented how good those FDM print models looked.
In a couple weeks I'll probably post my profile settings once I try out that new 0.06 layer profile.
Definitely interested, since I have a P1P also. 😅
the cutting in half is genius!!! How do you add the pinholes? I'd love to get a peep at your profile, if you can share. thanks!
so the cutted plane goes facing downwards?
@@miteruno think of it as if you cut a mini in half between the legs and put the sliced surfaces against the print bed. You gotta play a little with it still based on the pose of the mini.
Also important detail I forgot to mention is you need a smooth bed, textured PEI will leave too rough of a finish to mate the two halves without noticing.
Resin just isn't an option for many of us, without access to a properly ventilated space. I'm often frustrated with the results of my Ender 3 when it comes to printing minis, and I realize that it's time for an upgrade - but I just have no safe place to put a resin printer. FDM is what I'm stuck with, for now.
I want to boost your engagement while continuing to hype up for one of my favorite creators: I have been a fan of Duncan Shadow for years now. His models are at that perfect level of detail that allows for fast batch painting while being anything but generic. They are "chunky" in the best possible way; every exaggerated expression or gesture comes out with a wash while weapons any equipment are large and obvious; players know that goblin has crossbow and is snarling from across the table. Of all my Pateron mini hoarding, Duncan Shadow's models are the ones that I actually print, paint and play with nearly every week.
yeah they are super good aren't they.
Im beginning to like resin printing more and more, but thats because I've learned the steps it takes to keep it a clean(ish) process. I have a video coming out (hopefully) this month in regards to making resin more enjoyable to print.
I don't do much as far as minis go anymore, but I do know a lot about working with lower layer height and you definitely need a printer designed around minis, precision extrusion, low flow rates, and bone dry filament that is being kept heated during the print. You want a much shorter melt zone with minis as the volumetric flow rate is so low, and bambu labs printers have extended melt zones making them actively worse than your standard v6 hotend. The standard flow revo actually might be good if you are providing a lot of airflow to the heatsink as it has a tiny heater area. Gearing and tolerances on the extruder mechanism is also a big deal as a tiny shift in something like axial alignment or filament deformation can produce a noticeable change in flow rate. Part cooling is also huge, and for minis I think the berd-air style cooling is better, lighter, and suits itself to small areas like minis without having the mass airflow of over-the-bed stationary fan cooling. I have also heard that nozzle geometry matters a lot more, and I remember something about a nozzle that has a long conical stepdown designed for printing small things helping with pressure issues more than common nozzles that have from the sharp transition they have from manufacturing. Pretty sure that was a CNC kitchen video and they are Japanese going down to like .05mm.
I went with a fdm more specifically Bambu because of Danny and you. Thanks for this video so I can go back to some of Danny's old videos for inspiration!
I've actually gotten pretty good miniature supports using the newish thin tree setting. The minis are no longer encased in a cocoon of support material.
What are the thin tree settings?
@@liesureleeminis8268cura does auto generated tree supports
@@liesureleeminis8268 the latest Bambu Studio that came out about a week ago has organic tree supports now, which work even better. Can grow them from the base and branch out barely touching the figure you are printing. So they aren't surrounded by walls of support. Make the support wall thickness 1 because it defaults at 2 which is quite sturdy, but also harder to break off.
@@antmax good to know!
why don't i see that as an option in my studio app? all i see is normal (auto or manual) and tree (auto or manual)... thanks!!!@@antmax
Great video, I have been printing minis with my Bambu X1 Carbon for the last year and it's largely been a positive experience. The .08 layer height typically provides a good enough surface quality, but I always have to keep in mind that the print is going to have a "good" side and "bad" side because of support scarring.
It works really well when you can easily hide the "bad" side of the model (e.g. the "bad" side of shoulder armor is the inside that is going to be glued anyways), but sometimes it isn't possible. The easiest way I've found to do this is to cut the prints into halves or quarters when there isn't an easily hideable side. It does leave a large seam that needs to be glued together and can be difficult to get right, but the result is much better than having a side that is scarred up from supports. I have yet to try dissolvable supports, but the part that keeps me away is the price. Would love to see someone try this out.
The layer lines are an issue on organic models, but they are easy to hide if the model doesn't have a smooth surface texture like skin. Fur and scales turn out really well because the rough texture hides the layer lines naturally. In some cases the layer lines turn out well for a metallic chassis surface finish as the layer lines look like a brushed metal finish, but in other cases it just looks weird.
I may try switching to a .2 mm nozzle, but I have a feeling it will increase the time quite a bit for a marginal gain in surface quality due to the lower flow rate. Your video showed this off really well and I am interested to see comparisons between a .08 mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle and the settings you used in your video, including surface quality, time to print, and any other intangibles like support strength.
I have a kickstarter X1C and have been using it nearly 24/7. I have used both the 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles when printing models that have a lot of detail. Although the 0.2 nozzle does increase print time, the results in quality between the 0.4 and the 0.2 nozzles are very visible. I almost exclusively print with a 0.2 nozzle because of this. Customers no longer complain about layer lines or muted details. Everything comes out sharp, crisp and even. I had refined my 0.4 nozzle profiles to what I thought was quite good, but the 0.2 nozzle blows those models away with ease.
I also watched Danny's channel when I was first starting out. Your videos have become a must watch as well, keep up the great work.
What happened to Danny's channel? No uploads in over a year.
@nelsoncabrera6464 I thought he started a business. I'd need to check all his sites though
Hi, good work, I particularly liked the experiment with the 20 microns. I've been trying to print miniatures (not the optimized ones) on my cheap Elegoo Neptune for over a year and I keep running into the same problems. Unfortunately, I can't afford a new and better printer right now (a Prusa Mk 4 with MMU would be quite nice). First of all, it is worth using tree or organic supports, ideally with thin branch thickness and diameter. Since the Bambu has an AMS, you should also print the supports with PVA (e.g. AquaSolve or PrimaSelect PVA+) at full contact. That should solve the problem with the unsightly contact surfaces. Since printing miniatures takes a lot of time, you should also use a LokBuild film. PLA sticks like hell to the build plate and you can turn off the heatbed. (I only print with it.) This also saves a lot of electricity. Furthermore, PLA should not be printed in an enclosure with a heated print bed. If you also lower the printing temperature by 5 - 15°, it could also work with 40 microns (a fifth of the nozzle diameter) or less. Filament and filament color also makes a significant difference. I got my best results with neutral PLA/PHA from colorfabb. If the layer lines are small, good results can be achieved with two to three layers of primer. Printing with PVB (e.g. PolysSmooth / FiberSmooth) also helps against layer lines. Best regards
I found a LONG time ago (bee printing FDM for over 10 years now) layer lines are from inconsistent nozzle temps from the part cooling fan or layer times/movements and z travel binding or bed wobble on bed slingers. The nozzle/part temp is greatly helped if you print multiple at a time as when you slow it down you will have to go very slow to prevent the part from curling by giving time to the part cooling fan to solidify before curling. Before part cooling was a thing i always printed a part cooling tower to take the nozzle off the part so it could cool. Printing multiple with low consistent part cooling fan will greatly help even the print temps for the parts as the filament is laying on plastic with more consistent temps
Fat Dragon Games also makes support-less stops designed for FDM printing.
I’m dying 😂 after thinking printing minis on my Bambu x1 would be a waste of time, I finally randomly came across a video that made me interested in the possibility. I just came from Danny’s video (first video I’d ever seen from him) that was made 5 years ago and wanted to see if there was as an updated video on the X1. Typed it in the search only to find you’d made one 4 days ago!! I just started into the d&d/mini hobby within the past few weeks and found your channel around that time. Anyways, that timing just tickled me!!
Honestly, the fact is supportless DnD minis are pretty amazing. I print them both in resin and FDM. Due to the costs and low prep time I just spam enemy dnd models on my fdm while I print more important figures on my resin.
I've been printing my DND minis on my anycubic vyper with the .4mm nozzle with a layer height of .1mm using ABS and man I've been loving it! I scale them up to 150% so it's a little easier on the printer and since they are just player minis they aren't huge and the level of detail is great and even better since it's ABS I vapor smooth them with acetone and all the layer lines literally just melt away into a pretty smooth layer depending on how you let them sit in the closed container.
If you have time definitely give it a shot in ABS, It's awesome seeing the detail that's achieved with it
Oh and another bonus to it being ABS, when you get any support scarring from ripping off the supports, the vapor smoothing gets rid of the nasty stress marks on the mini too
I print models on the p1p @ a 0.16 mm layer height with the stock .4mm nozzle. The models come out fine. Especially for proxying and especially vehicles where, like the buildings, layer lines aren't a huge deal.
I just finished printing a warhound on a p1s at 0.16 and it is more than just fine. Took far less time than fauxhammer’s 8d print…
Great video and thanks for the shout out. Glad you liked my work!
I LOVED your work! I had so many questions about it at Essen Spiel too, I sent them your way ;)
I have an X1 Carbon.
For some things it is great, but the only time I tried a figure the results were bad enough for me not try again!
I have been printing various WW2 tanks for gaming. Generally these come out pretty useable with a reasonable print time. Fine for on table use where you are not looking at them close up (and my painting is a bigger issue for close up than the quality of the mini).
Problem I do find is overhangs. Even using support and playing with the speeds they at best look awful with the filament drooping down. Not sure what to try with the settings to improve this.
That said, a resin printer is on my shopping list after Christmas for minis, and I will use the Bambu printer what what it is good at (multi colour relatively flat prints)
I find that the filament matters also. The Inland PLA+ seems to produce supports that are easier to remove than the Bambu basic PLA.
I love Danny's channel and also have been wondering where he went. Glad to see I'm not alone!
He’s ok. Not my place to share. But he is good and moved on to different things
If you talk to someone that talks to him, let them know to let him know, many of us miss him and hope all is well!! @@FauxHammer
For things like buildings try using a larger layer height and adding "Fuzzy Skin" in the slicer to hide the layer lines.
Rock on Warhammer! looking forward to my own test when my bambu A1 comes. I miss Danny too
Man, there are people like Danny that I wish still created content, but even moreso, wish there was a way to know that they're ok. If they decided to go on and do something else, good for them! But it'd be sad to realize someone left the community for other reasons and never know.
He’s ok, a mutual friend told me
@@FauxHammer He is ok, I think he decided to lay low after a bad Kickstarter.
He's posted updates on a kickstarter as of September this year. Some major issues with being unable to fulfill it, and mentioned some health issues in 2022 that led to him not posting content.
If you want to save time when FDM printing, you can also play with infill density. Those buildings seem unnecessarily filled to me. I bet you can stand on one and it won’t break.
If you are going to print a titan, use a 0.4 nozzle. You can see some Titans on printedwarhammer with nice qualities.
You can achieve good quality print with the 0.4 nozzle using the "Fine" option. The 0.2 has "better quality" but takes twice the time than the .4 nozzle
Glad to see more and more interest in this, was playing around with printing a 1/12 scale helmet on the P1P for a Black Series figure and just kept trying to see what if I could get it perfect, honestly it's not bad at 0.06, there is loss of the smallest details (same details are just barely visible in resin) but that's to be expected. Will be messing around with it some more this weekend, from what I've recognized as a pain point thus far are the overhangs, especially on the underside if there are any, like on a dome for example (that's with it resting on a full bed of supports). I think splitting models in half and printing them split side on the bed is likely the best way to do it.
I feel like there's some smoothing that could be achieved with some kind of additional mechanical motion in the layers creation process. Much like you're piping analog, there's techniques to do more than just lay a bead... That said, I'm certainly not in a position to r&d such a feature. Even vibration with ultrasonics could potentially do something to smooth layer lines if the temp and material velocity is accounted for(pardon me, in an ultrasonic tech and I apply my experiences to random stuff from time to time.😂)...
Hmmm... 🤔
0:51 I'm at the starting point right now. I bought an X1C first. Received my A1 mini today because I wanted to experience using it (and a gift for my mom). I'm already thinking of buying another AMS, but I might end up getting the P1S Combo instead. Insanely good quality printers.
The only gripe I have is EVERY SINGLE COLOR being out of stock almost ALWAYS besides white and black. I am seriously considering making a bot to scrape the site and automatically place orders at this point when 4+ colors I want are available.
I NEED ALL THE FILAMENTS
That's the video I've been sitting on making myself for 3 months. I bought this printer for minis myself among other things
Tried doing multicolor minis with the .2mm nozzle but kept having jams from what I’m guessing are flow rate issues. Gonna try to go back to it at some point, but for now I’ve just been printing tiles.
seems you and i had the same idea , ive spent the last few weeks printing on pla+ resin prints and im using the x1 carbon and im using the resin supports and setting , im getting great results
Dry brushing fdm terrain works alright if you have more texture and mess it up more with clashing strokes. Makes it so you have to focus on it to see it. The more the eye has to draw towards the less it sees in the periphery.
I have quite a few printers and some are better than others when it comes to layer lines. However, if I want to reduce layer lines, I print with mate pla. Have you tried mate PLA Ross?
you can do .03 layer lines with that .2 nozzle, however you need to SLOW the printer down. Granted Bambu will do it on its own for the most part. One thing you can do is increase the layer cooldown time, this slows the printer down by a lot and makes each layer much better.
FDM is going to be slower then SLA because one does each layer in a single take, vs drawing a line over and over again. So FDM can do organic shapes, but it will take a lot longer and some good tuning to get resin quality levels.
Was there any way to decrease the print time by decreasing the infill? Looks pretty hefty the way you have it!
I am more familiar with the P1 series. But the difference in the nozzel configurations is not just the fan. It is also the Thermister and heater. And you probably want 2 of those for swapping back and forth. (Plus they are a bit fiddly to swap)
it's all within the same component you get from Bambu tho.
@@FauxHammer yes, but swapping the fan, thermister and heater between two hotends is fiddly and requires new thermal grease on every swap. If you plan to do it once and never go back, fine, but if you plan to ever go back, it's not a huge amount extra to get it with the electronics already installed. I have a 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 hotend all with electronics, and I regularly swap between all of them depending on what I want to print.
@@tehhamstah yeah I'm starting to realise this as more people comment. It's not clear on the site
Were you still using the .2 nozzle for the buildings? six days seems excessive especially on a Bambu machine. From the video it looks like you could have used a .4 or .6 without much if any loss of detail and way less infill.
I have a flashforge idx printer where I use pva for supports. I get great mini s from that. For the Bambu I use the 0.2 nozzle for fdm it is all orientation. You need to reduce supports on detailed parts.
i print 6mm (full spectrum dominance, specifically) scale minis, scaled up to 133% (so the math stays right) on my p1p w/ .2mm head with 10% gyroid infill and otherwise default settings and they turn out excellent.
Yeah, I've been wondering what happened to Danny for a while now. Even before he vanished completely, his videos have become less frequent. Possibly burnout? :/
I hope he's doing okay
I have seen an article somewhere about using acetone to smooth the surface of a filament miniature after printing. I can't find the article now, but that might be an avenue to getting better minis from filament.
Acetone melts plastic, it's great for building and big object. You can lose detail for small miniatures if you're not careful
pretty sure that only abs
ASA and ABS can be vapor smoothed with acetone.
This works only for a difrent material, not PLA.
@@slightlyliftedPVB can be smoothed with Isopropanol
I don't know whether your slicer will let you do this, but you could try to fudge the supports extrusion multiplier for them to be effectively thinner than the nozzle width. Make them dense enough and they'll still hold up whatever they need to be holding up fine, but are easy to remove without ripping up the model because there's basically no cohesion to them.
How to smooth out the sides? I don't think FDM can do this. Because the bead as it's extruded is fundamentally a little barrel shaped, on top of whatever vertical alignment issues your printer may produce due to extrusion or mechanical inconsistency. I think you need solvent smoothing or a filler material that you can apply on the surface so that when you paint the model, it doesn't start highlighting layer lines. Primer, plastic putty, etc. Some suggest actually using the UV printer resin as a filler agent. But please brush it on and wear PPE, i have seen one guy airbrush spray it on and that's just ludicrously irresponsible and dangerous, please don't be that guy.
I have the anycubic kobra max and it's great...I'm still new to 3d printing and still learning how to print and learn the settings
I cheered Danny on back in 2018, sent him the 15mm Tau to print. I was very impressed with his results. I hope he is doing well wherever he may be.
Life was better in 2018.
I've heard he's ok, gone back to his previous job
Is it really better to get the one without the fan? I thought you needed to connect the cables to the new hot end?
Thought u could print in ABS/PTG and smooth the paint thinner vapor🤔? Never do it it tho
You can print the miniatures in ABS with the 60 micron layer resolution and do vapor smoothing, which makes it look like an actually resin print with glossyness
Softens all the sharp edges too though
Another great video, I despise the mess resin makes no doubt, but as my main jam is painting, the detail is essential, so for now at least I'll stick with resin
Printed a couple of mini's on my P1X without playing with the settings and they were great without sanding or other polishing techniques. Thicker paints (Vallejo) helped a lot. Speedpaint was not a good idea.
You can reduce print times by quite a loot by lowering infill %. that 6 day print you showed had way too much infill
Do you have a Creality K1 to make a video showing how to print a miniature using nozzle 0.2?
I like Resin printers detail but I hate the procedure.
I am planning to buy a Bambu Lab P1P to print with PLA , PLA+ .
I heard that enclosures are good for other materials like ABS and bad for PLA that why I choosed P1P instread of P1S.
Most of the time I want to print terrain or large scale models like a vehicle or a Dreadnought size and Heroquest board but I still care about detail.
Do you think I must buy 0.2 nozzle or keep the 0.4 nozzle?
Can you make a video for the slicer for best settings of 0.2 and 0.4 nozzle according to best detail?
From the specs I saw that the Bambu Lab X1 P1S P1P can print at speed 500 but I guess I must set it to 200-250 for better detail.
What speed did you use for the miniatures of this video?
You'll get better detail with the 0.02 on smaller models but most miniatures aren't made with FDM in mind. I just used the standard settings In the slicer for all of these models
@@FauxHammer Well you must decrease the outer wall size if it use standard and the total speed if it use around 400-500 to 250.
I saw great improvement to my Ender 3 V2 with these changes on small models(Smaller outer wall, half speed).
ever thought of printing abs and smoothing with acetone?
i just downloaded fusion 360 and gonna dowload rinhos 8 i guess, dio u have other programs for this?
Also get both nozzles. It saves to e to replace them for different prints
Bros litteraly addicted to bambu. . .
The Arachne settings helps a lot also if more difficult miniatures
Have you used the k1 max? Yep I just ordered it ,a ruby hardened nozzle,filament, and have zero skill on how to use all the software. I considered Bambu Labs however it is said there is a data security issue as well as forced account binding . Pretty much they can make your machine useless at anytime for any reason.
to save speed, adaptive cubic infill (and at 2% infill) is enough to seriously cut down print times. You can really optimize prints in ways not discussed in the video. For anybody doing prints on FDM, the more you can split the model so the visible areas face UP, the better it will look.
t's a bit of a different hobby, since you can cut and scrape and shape and finish PLA in ways very different than resin models.
as someone who wants to print some of those models on my minifactory having the resin printer be the only choice i'm left wonder how to do that then? From what i have heard is you must wear gloves and a mask and have ventilation is that true?
When I saw what resin could do with minis after printing stuff with fff/fdm for several years, I knew instantly that it was game over.
Simple way to get rid of layer lines is to paint in ABS and Acetone vapor smooth. Do it right and it looks injection molded.
I've been trying to improve minis on my Bambu P1S, I just lack the experience and knowledge to pull it off though.
My brother's really into minis and painting them, so I'm trying to provide half decent models, but the supports are a monumental issue for me.
I have an X1C, I love it, it restored my love of 3D printing - but I still think the multi-colour feature is just a gimmick. Multi-colour/material through a single nozzle is just never going to be material efficient. If you really want to do multi-colour, get a tool-changer or multi-head printer.
You should try cutting up your models so you can glue them together from pieces that are different colours
then you don't have to waste time with multiple colour prints
you just print all the parts that are the same colour for all your models in one go
then then next colour and so on
and then superglue the finished pieces together into a multicolor print
you can even split the print between fdm and resin
if a specific portion needs more detail
Probably the Active Flow Rate Compensation of the A1 series can be useful for precise prints.
Furthermore, the A1 Mini has a hardware configuration that seems much simpler to maintain and more mechanically stable than the A1 Combo, also due to the presence of the linear rail on the Z axis compared to the double screw.
Go for the mini then?
With the enclosure you should be able to print ABS no problem, it's so much easier to sand.
Also you can do vapor smoothing too
I love the 0.2mm hotend. Its great for detail
So I am relatively new to this hobby, and had my Carbon X1 for about a month now, and the one thing that has been driving me nuts is my Aoleon The Martian Girl character can’t print on it without major fails. I have tried everything I can think of and have been hitting a brick wall. The support filament doesn’t work properly and when using a separate support filament the printer creates more filament ‘poop’ than needed to print the model itself. The printer is worse than my cats in that its “litter box” has to be emptied several times during a single print. Furthermore, it can’t do rounded organic shapes well without things like speghetifying or layer lines and if you try ironing like I did, it ended up melting the entire print head enclosure and clogging the nozzle. It was a nightmare project for me that ended in misery. And I’m now at the age where I just don’t have the patience for dealing with crap anymore. I expect things to basically just work, because life is too short.
Fat Dragon Games (other TH-camr) has a video with a good profile for the A1 Mini. Requires a 0.2 nozzle, though
It looked like your infill percent setting seemed really high. I usually bump up the number of walls to 3-4 for terrain and do 5-10% infill with the rectangular pattern. Great video still! Definitely looking forward to the day FDM can really do resin quality prints easily
This is an important detail, thank you for pointing that out. Whenever I design models for printing, I also spend a lot of time thinking about where I can add voids on the model to avoid infill entirely; basically, where can this model be made hollow in such a way that it saves material and time.
I would recommend use a 0.4 nozzle for something like terrain.
Also Titans
Have you tried polymakers polysmooth? Or looked at epoxy smoothing
I have t, I should look. From what I have seen though, vapours also soften sharp details
I developed a resin sensitivity as a result of resin printing. I would love to see a good FDM profile for my X1C (preferable with supports)!
I'm worried for the day that happens to me.
My favorite part is where the guy with a 4 year old Ender 3 is making printing miniatures look easy 🤣 12:10
I kinda wished in these FDM reviews, you would take some time to try testing them with specifically terrain. The Printmini's modular shipping container is printable on both Resin and FDM printers. It's a decent size, but still having some smaller detailing like rivets and bracing. I feels like it would make a good benchmarch for comparasons.
There’s really no value in testing print quality on FDM printers. The second you do you invite arguments of “waghhhh you can get better if you change these settings” I just like to focus on user experience with the machines
hold up, are you printing supports in vase mode? is that a thing?
I love his channel as well, really miss his content.
I hope eventually we can get the quality of FDM with the easy of use and convenience of resin.
Timing could not be better for this video, i've just received my 0.2mm nozzle for this very reason
On another note fat dragon games are about to release a video on profiles from the bambu labs regarding minis
You need to get into contact with Tom Tullis from Tomb of 3d Printed Horrors/Fat Dragon Games, he's really the go to guy on using FDM printers for terrain and miniatures.
Happy to speak to anyone who could advise
I've been using hatchbox grey with an old ender 3 and i've found if you turn the z offset just a tad too low at 0.05 layers with a 0.2 nozzle, you ever so slightly melt the two top layers together, minimizing the visible lines and smoothing out the print. It prob works because hatchbox pla gets so watery at times. If anyone else uses hatchbox, please give it a try and let me know.
It looks like you're using a lot of infill, you can use about 5% infill or even less, that will save you a lot of time and material. You can also use the infill for the purging during color changes
So now.. how does all this compare to your resin-like quality on a Kobra 2 video from a few months back. Cos that scenery looked pretty damn good at 0.04. Much better than anything I've seen from your Bambu vids recently.
I just sold my Saturn 2 and mercury xs setup as after 2 years i just hate the mess resin causes and the post processing is a pain. I just have my Neptune 3 max and P1S. I follow Fat dragon studios as Tom is great at doing minis on fdm
You should look into self supported mini's, like Briteminis or RocketPigGames mini's. Makes a heap of difference if there are no supports to be removed.
The new Prusa XL will have less waste for colored minis, right? A lot less purging with 4 toolheads.
The problem with fine FDM printing is that there are so much variables that can cause print errors that will be visible later.
Reliable precision of the movements, the extruder, the constant temperature of the nozzle, the surrounding temperature, the unprecise filament diameter, etc. etc.
And all that assumed that the slicer settings are perfect for the layer height and nozzle diameter.
Is it worth the hassle? sometimes.
Why dont you do the buildings as Hollywood/movie style facades. Just the outer walls and hollow, no fill interiors. You may have to print roofs and glue on but wouldnt tat save alot of time and materials? Laurie NZ 😊
Fdm print can be speed up quite a bir with smart setting. Its a bit of trail and error.
Smart setting can both increase speed as well as.qualiry.
Also look at speed VS detail using 0.4 nozzle with 0.08 layers
Did you try with PVA supports? They are water soluble . Moreover you can try printing with ABS and vapor smoothing it with acetone. Or PVB and smooth it with alcohol.