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I love your youtube channel so much I purchased a bunch of your products. I woke up Saturday morning and detailed my wife's car. I used a foam cannon, degreased her tires and rims, cleaned the leather interior, polished and waxed it, polished the oxidized headlights and a bunch of other things I've watched you do to cars. Her SUV looks brand new. Everything you teach worked. The only part you left out is how friggin sore my body would be today😂. Your youtube channel is the best. Keep the videos coming!!!
this is one of the reasons why i love your videos, you go and dig and explain the fundamentals before you prove or say something about anything, this is the no. 1 sign of legitimacy and quality!
In my experience, after coating your car, you begin to develop many beads as Larry noted in his video which is nice to see but the downside of this is the reality that during normal driving conditions and although rainwater can be very safe, the road grime and dirt from the environment (iron/dirt/oil, etc.) while driving will become the "minerals" and dirt that's left behind when it dries. Unfortunately, we don't or cannot wash our cars every time we drive so this is where I can see why many detailers or weekend warriors like "sheeting" type coatings because it helps avoid this phenomenon.
In my experience, the biggest source of hard water spots is from ground water. Whether that is a well or city supplied. Rain water will leave spots yes, but not to the level that ground water would (though where one lives can vastly change this outcome). Hence why he mentioned a lawn sprinkler in the video.
This the internet and everyone has an opinion so here is mine. 1st, this guy is a Pro and knows his shizzle and I am not denying or challenging that. 2. There are 2 different types of water issues. A) Water spots as he described caused by minerals trapped inside the water bead. The water bead acts as a magnifying glass causing the minerals to get etched into the paint. B) Water Spots caused by Acidic water. Now he did state that "most" areas have alkaline water and I realize this, but acidic water spots are the worst. They almost immediately will etch your paint. These spots may contain no minerals, its just the acidic level of the water itself is so high, it just etches into the paint. This is caused by numerous factors, pollution and how your water is processed in your local water facility. Here is Southern California, the house I grew up in had acidic water so bad if you parked next to a sprinkler and let it sit all day? You basically needed a new paint job, whereas where I live now, the water is very alkaline and as long as you rinse it off right away your good. 3. He goes into the 1st hour, 2nd Hour, and this kinda made me chuckle because this too is dependant on where you live. I currently live in the SoCal Desert region and summer heat can hit 125F. My garage when I wash my cars INSIDE the garage is at times 110F. So the water dries in seconds not minutes, and defiantly not Hours. 4. In my testing out here in the desert, Si02 nano coatings are the WORST paint protection you can use. Why? They contain Si02, or silicates. These are great for shiny water beading look, but when its 125F out and you have a Monsoon and the temp drops to 75F pours rain for 15 minutes, then the sun comes back out and its 125F again? Si02 coatings spot so badly, you will need to compound your whole car and glass. Polishing will not work, nor will "water spot removers". So what works? Well I am not going to push products on someone else's channel, but I have found the best luck with using products that are Polyamino Silicone based. NO Si02 or Graphene. Graphene is the new "Teflon" so to speak and is a great marketing gimmick, and those that are chemists know and I will leave it at that. Lastly, if you Daily your car, you can't expect it to be "perfect". The guy in this video does high end cars that are garage queens, and that is great, nothing wrong with that, but for us "regular folk" that drive regular cars and they get used, expect some scratches, chips and pits. You do the best you can keeping the car up by doing regular washing, and using YOUR best products. What is YOUR best products? Simply the ones you can afford and like to use. Use those on the regular, and your car will look great for many years to come. Just my ten cents. Thanks for reading👍
@@TheHonestGuy1995 Yes. I just don't like to throw "brands" out there on someone else's channel that sells/promotes their own products. So with that in mind I am reluctant to name some but will since you asked. I will give 2 only out of respect for this Channel. From a more expensive standpoint you can use CarPro "Gliss". This product is applied similar to a nano coating, but the vehicle does not need to be polished like an Si02 type product, though a clay bar is recommended whenever you put any kind of sealant down. On the lower end of the price range, and this does not mean poor quality, just lower price point you have DuraGloss 105. This product is inexpensive and is an AIO type product. To get maximum bonding DuraGloss recommends applying DuraGloss 601 bonding agent to the paint first. Both are inexpensive. I personally have had VERY good luck with the DuraGloss 105/601 combo that beats most Si02 nano products under said conditions I mentioned. Expect 3-6 months durability. They are so easy to use I don't mind applying every 3 months and maintain with a topper like DuraGloss Aquawax. Hope this helps you.
Think about this: The beads concentrate the minerals into small groups which then etch their way into the paint, where no beading spreads out the minerals and they are less noticeable and or aren't concentrated enough to etch. Just a thought.
Great info, Larry!! Getting the water off of the car, as quickly as possible, seems to be paramount (obvious answer). Air works best for me, followed by Hydrate an a plush towel. That's why I ask for some of these products to be sold by the gallon - I go thru Hydrate like beer... but I digress. I just finished the weekend SLK maintenance, and it still looks FANTASTIC!! Keep up the great work!!
You still need to remove the water after a maintenance wash the same way you would without DI water. Blowing and wiping it off immediately after washing solves the problem just the same.
Could someone explain why when using DI water you still need to blow/wipe to dry? I was hoping with DI since there are no solids in the water it would just evaporate without leaving anything behind. But in reality, I've found fine water spots left behind. I've tried using DI for the whole wash process (ate through my resin fairly quickly) and now use it just for the final rinse which I try to do as thoroughly as possible.
@@VivekDlima I've found that even when using DI water (when mine tests as 0 or 1 PPM) you will still get some water spots. Using DI water for the entire process is quite expensive. You only need the final rinse. I'm no chemist, but I have found then when you blow after a DI rinse, you are displacing some of the hard water in cracks and crevices that you may not have completely gotten in you DI rinse. Blowing will reduce the droplet sizes. The large drops tent o be the ones that cause an issue. Have had no issues with spots when blow drying. If your car is coated, you almost eliminate the need to wipe anything, which greatly reduces the chances of scratching.
@@VivekDlima DI water is not distilled water. There are still things in it that will remain when it evaporates. Even with distilled water you’d still have to dry your car as dust in the air will stick to it when drying, there is no getting around it. Letting water evaporate is never going to give as nice a finish as removing the water immediately.
Best explanation out there! Also worth mentioning are the street cleaners that blast their pressure washer at the ground getting tiny droplets on your car! From my experience though the water that blows with the air is not harmful…
I believe that the total volume of water on the surface of the car is much greater with the beading of the water. With the greater volume comes more minerals (assuming that the mineral content for a giver water source) is consistent). So when the water evaporates the concentration of the minerals rises within each drop. Think about what the total volume of water is that remains on the surface for a car that has sheeting action versus beading action. I suspect it might be a factor of 10 times or greater volume for the beading surface. Great work AMMO.
My 9 yr ceramic coating had failed in 2 yrs. Or so i thought. I tried everything to get it back with zero results. Until i tried diy detail water spot remover. Im writing this because i was shocked when my ceramic coating hydrophobics was still there. I couldn't believe it. The water minerals literally clogged my coating so badly that it no longer worked. So i highly recommend water spot remover first 😂
All of DIY detail products are amazing. I’ve never tried ammo though. Gives me chemical guys vibes and it’s not anywhere on anyone’s top product list just like chemical guys 😂
@@jonot8547 yea I’ve never actually looked up AMMO’s price or tried to buy it so I wouldn’t know if it’s not competitive price wise or if it’s hard to get but that sure does seem some downsides to AMMO. That’s why i like to stick to quality, economically priced, and readily available brands such as DIY detail
@@jonot8547 dang it’s rough to hear ammo is overpriced. Never checked the price or tried to get it but that’s another knock on it. That’s why I stick to high quality, decently priced, and readily available products like DIY
@@jonot8547 didn’t know AMMO was overpriced. I haven’t really looked into it because it gave me chemical guy vibes but that’s why I stick to quality brands like DIY. You can get them anywhere. My message keeps getting removed from this so let’s see
There's a detailer (Scandinavian Detailing)in Sweden that use a filter on his incoming water. He gets ultraclean water and therefor he got no waterspots on the cars he washes. All minerals are filtered out and problem solved. Thank you for all the great tips👍 I apologize for my poor english but i hope you understand 😅
I've also tried multiple different low ph car soaps as well with minimal to no results. I think the key is dwell time, but as a mobile detailer working in the elements all day, it's just not a great option. So I agree, typically I end up resorting to polishing and re-coating/sealing after. Wish there were some products that would help out with the water spots without having to polish.
I have two black cars. They say black is not a color, it’s a full time job. I use Superior Formula 4 spray wax after rinsing off the car after the contact wash. It’s used in car washes as the last step allowing the blowers to blow the rinse water off the car. Doesn’t have any real protection quality just helps push the water off easier.
Another awesome video that is full of useful information! I have learned so much from your tips and it’s improved my detailing skills so my truck, car & motorcycle look much better! thank you for being so generous and sharing with us ,you’re amazing!
I'm surprised how well you get a finish with a wool pad in different videos 👍🔥I tried to do the same but always got haze and tracers even keeping the pad clean with a pad washer and then going through it again with a soft foam pad
I'm not sure that's best for paint, but for glass I have used a kettle descaling product to get rid of water spots. It does the job very well, after which I put on some rain-x and everything is fine. I am also glad my car has a glass roof and its more forgiving to cleaning methods.
Amazing video, as always. I wonder if you have looked into having an RV sediment filter between your outdoor spigot and your garden hose? I have seen a bunch of people who have done this method and although it doesn't necessarily remove 100% of the sediment in the water, it apparently does a really good job at removing a vast majority of it. Possible you can look into it, do some research and possibly do a video on that? I haven't done it myself to be honest, but am considering it..
Okay… take a liter of water, add 100g of citric acid powder, 60g of baking soda, and two squirts of dish soap (surfactant)… stir to dissolve the mixture.. spray it on the hard water etchings…. You’re welcome.. From DUBAI with ❤
interesting video and amazing car too. well could it be that the sun touching the paint make the minerals go deep easily through the paint, so that's why all those water spots were like that probably? i can't wait for that jaguar, i love the e type ❤
I was thinking about one of your old videos about beading vs sheeting...so would it make sense to have a coating that sheets instead to avoid the beading and this problem?
I believe it's due to the beads concentrating the minerals into the small..beads, whereas uncoated cars like you said, you have big areas of flat water where the minerals are more evenly dispersed, so when it dries the car still has those minerals, its just evenly coated over the whole car, giving you the false idea that it is cleaner vs the coated car next to it with unsightly waterspots.. I always notice in the parking lots after rain at work, my car being the only coated car, its still wet with beads hours after the rain, but the other regular cars are almost fully dried.. i may have some waterspotting when it dries, but those cars, its easy to see with the contrast of the remaining wet shiny areas, and the dried, dull areas that still definitely have mineral deposits on them so my takeaway is coated cars are more prone to waterspots yes, because the beads concentrate the minerals/dirt in the water Uncoated cars do not hold all of those minerals etc into the tiny beads, so it is generally less noticeable - but still just as there as the coated car.
I 2nd the chemical guys stuff...i know everyone hates chemical guys...but the spot remover gel worked for me better than every single other "high end" brands i bought and used@JT-LV
Hi there Larry!! I can’t recall any of your videos where you show how to remove mosquitoes without scratching the paint.. that could be a nice one!! Greetings from Spain
Since rainwater is extremely soft (unless you live in a highly polluted and /or dusty areas) these spots are usually caused by sprinklers and most of the times are on one side of the car due to its parked location. The vinegar solution is a good idea, it never crossed my mind.
Beading does not let the water run off the car. So when the bead evaporates the minerals in the bead stay on the car. I have watched water beads stay on the coated part of the hood of my car withstand the wind from driving at 70 mph. The uncoated part was bone dry before I got up to 70 mph.
Id love a video on polishing single stage plastic cladding. My Typhoon's red cladding keeps oxidizing but when I polish it, it leaves pad marks and won't remove cleanly.
Hi there...have you tried using Aluminium brightner mixed 50/50 water?...spray it down and wipe it on with a wet microfibre. Must be done in the shade. I always have great success removing deep water spots without polishing. Let me know if you have tried it out
Prisms disperse light it doesn’t concentrate it like a magnifying glass. So no matter the distance it won’t burn like a magnifying glass. Yes, the increased number of tiny beads allow for quicker evaporation and disposition of the minerals on the surface.
I think the reason a coated car visibly looks like its warer spotted more is not that it has more minerals on the surface but instead that they are more focused by the fact the coatings make the water bead up. If the water is flat and the water spot is therfor flat as well you wont notice it visibly as much
Does it make more water spots with a coating? Perhaps, however in my experience they dont etch as fast or hard into the paint since there is that protective layer it is sitting on. We dont have super hard water but instead i live by a gravel road and the dust and dirt minerals really bites in badly on dry uncoated paint vs on a coated or simply waxed surface. Beeing a detailer i never have the time to clean my own cars so i just call them off-roaders and stick lights and big tires on them...
So we polish every time it rains 😁 Seriously, I have problem because water falls from balconies, laundry and cleaning etc. where I park. Almost daily! The problem remains almost wherever I park, so there is no pretty any more options.
The other choice is to have a deionization system (which isn't ridiculously expensive). A good deionization system will remove 95% to 98% of the dissolved metallic ions (Mg++, Ca++ and others) found in tap water. (Very pure water is at least 18 megohms (the higher the megohms, the less likely the water can conduct electricity, therefore the purer and also the less dissolved ions) which means almost all the dissolved metallic ions have been removed). When you rinse the car with DI-water (deionized water) should you allow the DI-water droplets to air dry, you should not see the chalky water spots form. Of course, if you dry the car properly after rinsing it, again, you should NOT see the chalky water spots form either. Rain water, especially acidic rain water (aka acid rain) can contain dissolved minerals as well as, depending on relative humidity, some dissolved salt ions also. On a very hazy day, if it rained, the rain water can contain dissolved ions and dissolved salt ions also. We measure the acidity or alkalinity of water using a "pH meter". Acid water contains acid ions (namely H+ ions) pH < 7.0 and alkaline water contains dissolved OH- ions and it's pH is >7.0. Water whose pH is 7.0 is "neutral" and is therefore NEITHER acidic or alkaline. Acid or alkaline water can cause damage to your car's paint; thus the need for the paint to be properly waxed to help protect against acid or alkaline water as well as other environmental factors.
Hey Larry, have you found it possible to spot remove water spots with polishing? I notice a difference in shade or color after polishing through the coating. Seems like I have to re-do an entire panel even if the affected area is small. Thanks!
Depends on the coating and how embedded the minerals/water spots are. A finishing polish or cleaner wax may be light enough abrasion to safely maintain coating integrity.
Browsed through the comments to find this. Minerals alone are not corrosive, the evaporation of chorides embeds the minerals to the paint and corrodes the clear coat.
The sunlight refraction thing also doesn't make sense because the surface would never be able to get very hot while water was on top of it. That's just thermodynamics. The hottest it could get would be the boiling point of water, and would likely stay well below that due to evaporative cooling and conducting away to the base metal.
I have a black car fitted with ppf on the front. The bonnet has very bad water spots. I tried gentle compound and polish but the water spots remain. Should I move to a clay bar or sand? Or remove the ppf and manage the paint?
I detailed cars ( @ a dealer) back in the late 80s in an active steel town… “acid rain” was a nightmare. Lots of cutting brand new soft paint… (not good) nothing was an easy solution.
If you do not remove the minerals by chemical or mechanical means before polishing. You just might have the water spots reappear. Remove the minerals, then polish to be sure.
Water spots are my enemy. Seriously though, I need help getting the deepest water spots out of my side view mirrors. My 2020 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Nissan 370z repeatedly accumulate more and more water spots I can't remove. I've even used steel wool, and nothing works. Secondly, I feel that windshield laminate bubbles(they're not pits)in the sunlight over time and wondered your opinion on that. I've noticed a serious degradation in general with automotive glass.
I think this depends mostly on your Financial Capability because for me the most important thing is a Clear Windshield specially when its pouring rain hard
It would be good to see what Larry recommends here, would 0000 steel wool be suitable also? Being careful of any window wires, going wiping in the direction of the wires not against them (preferably trying to avoid).
This is why I stopped washing at home and switched to a self-service car wash subscription that uses reverse osmosis triple-filtered water for the final rinse.
Water spots only appear on clean cars where the water beads up. Walk down any parking lot after it rains. Cars with beads stay wet longer and dirty un waxed or un coated cars are dry in minutes on a summer day. On the uncoated dirty car, Dirt and dust left on the surface spreads the water out evenly where it dries very fast just like the salt patty illustration. In both scenarios minerals are left on the paint. However, one leaves the minerals in the shape of “spots” and one does not. Sorry Larry, your theory is kind of wrong since the beads take longer to dry, I’ve observed this looking at my clean coated car next to my neighbors uncoated dirty car all the time. I love your content, have for years. I’m just theorizing too 😂 but this is my observation. Keep giving me the vids and your opinion. I love it!
Ethanoic acid (vinegar ) is not a mild acid , actually the pH is polar + strong. People have a myth that vinegar is mild when actually it is not . Source Royalsociety of chemistry.
I believe that TH-cam's broken. how can such a huge channel release a highly informative video and get so comparatively little views? (I know, this happens to other channels as well.) this makes me kind of sad. he used to have more views when he had a tenth of the current subscribers 🤷♂️
putting a ceramic coating over soft subaru paint on a daily driver made me go insane. It was impossible to avoid water spots and I couldn't polish out etchings without having to recoat the car.
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I love your youtube channel so much I purchased a bunch of your products. I woke up Saturday morning and detailed my wife's car. I used a foam cannon, degreased her tires and rims, cleaned the leather interior, polished and waxed it, polished the oxidized headlights and a bunch of other things I've watched you do to cars. Her SUV looks brand new. Everything you teach worked. The only part you left out is how friggin sore my body would be today😂. Your youtube channel is the best. Keep the videos coming!!!
this is one of the reasons why i love your videos, you go and dig and explain the fundamentals before you prove or say something about anything, this is the no. 1 sign of legitimacy and quality!
In my experience, after coating your car, you begin to develop many beads as Larry noted in his video which is nice to see but the downside of this is the reality that during normal driving conditions and although rainwater can be very safe, the road grime and dirt from the environment (iron/dirt/oil, etc.) while driving will become the "minerals" and dirt that's left behind when it dries. Unfortunately, we don't or cannot wash our cars every time we drive so this is where I can see why many detailers or weekend warriors like "sheeting" type coatings because it helps avoid this phenomenon.
I like the way your broke that down and it kinda makes since, what are some sheeting products?
@@russellharris1299 maybe Larry has some recommendations :) but there are a few out there. good luck
@@russellharris1299I think the original reflex (black bottle) is sheeting
@@blakslee720. Yep it is. I really like it using it
In my experience, the biggest source of hard water spots is from ground water. Whether that is a well or city supplied. Rain water will leave spots yes, but not to the level that ground water would (though where one lives can vastly change this outcome). Hence why he mentioned a lawn sprinkler in the video.
This the internet and everyone has an opinion so here is mine. 1st, this guy is a Pro and knows his shizzle and I am not denying or challenging that. 2. There are 2 different types of water issues. A) Water spots as he described caused by minerals trapped inside the water bead. The water bead acts as a magnifying glass causing the minerals to get etched into the paint. B) Water Spots caused by Acidic water. Now he did state that "most" areas have alkaline water and I realize this, but acidic water spots are the worst. They almost immediately will etch your paint. These spots may contain no minerals, its just the acidic level of the water itself is so high, it just etches into the paint. This is caused by numerous factors, pollution and how your water is processed in your local water facility. Here is Southern California, the house I grew up in had acidic water so bad if you parked next to a sprinkler and let it sit all day? You basically needed a new paint job, whereas where I live now, the water is very alkaline and as long as you rinse it off right away your good. 3. He goes into the 1st hour, 2nd Hour, and this kinda made me chuckle because this too is dependant on where you live. I currently live in the SoCal Desert region and summer heat can hit 125F. My garage when I wash my cars INSIDE the garage is at times 110F. So the water dries in seconds not minutes, and defiantly not Hours. 4. In my testing out here in the desert, Si02 nano coatings are the WORST paint protection you can use. Why? They contain Si02, or silicates. These are great for shiny water beading look, but when its 125F out and you have a Monsoon and the temp drops to 75F pours rain for 15 minutes, then the sun comes back out and its 125F again? Si02 coatings spot so badly, you will need to compound your whole car and glass. Polishing will not work, nor will "water spot removers". So what works? Well I am not going to push products on someone else's channel, but I have found the best luck with using products that are Polyamino Silicone based. NO Si02 or Graphene. Graphene is the new "Teflon" so to speak and is a great marketing gimmick, and those that are chemists know and I will leave it at that. Lastly, if you Daily your car, you can't expect it to be "perfect". The guy in this video does high end cars that are garage queens, and that is great, nothing wrong with that, but for us "regular folk" that drive regular cars and they get used, expect some scratches, chips and pits. You do the best you can keeping the car up by doing regular washing, and using YOUR best products. What is YOUR best products? Simply the ones you can afford and like to use. Use those on the regular, and your car will look great for many years to come. Just my ten cents. Thanks for reading👍
Polyamino silicone based products , such as ? Can you name a few ?
@@TheHonestGuy1995 Yes. I just don't like to throw "brands" out there on someone else's channel that sells/promotes their own products. So with that in mind I am reluctant to name some but will since you asked. I will give 2 only out of respect for this Channel. From a more expensive standpoint you can use CarPro "Gliss". This product is applied similar to a nano coating, but the vehicle does not need to be polished like an Si02 type product, though a clay bar is recommended whenever you put any kind of sealant down. On the lower end of the price range, and this does not mean poor quality, just lower price point you have DuraGloss 105. This product is inexpensive and is an AIO type product. To get maximum bonding DuraGloss recommends applying DuraGloss 601 bonding agent to the paint first. Both are inexpensive. I personally have had VERY good luck with the DuraGloss 105/601 combo that beats most Si02 nano products under said conditions I mentioned. Expect 3-6 months durability. They are so easy to use I don't mind applying every 3 months and maintain with a topper like DuraGloss Aquawax. Hope this helps you.
replace the first word with, "polyamide" and you'll have more luck finding products 😉
The best thing i ever bought for detailing was a deionizer. Being able to let the paint for the most part air dry was a game changer.
Think about this: The beads concentrate the minerals into small groups which then etch their way into the paint, where no beading spreads out the minerals and they are less noticeable and or aren't concentrated enough to etch. Just a thought.
Great info, Larry!! Getting the water off of the car, as quickly as possible, seems to be paramount (obvious answer). Air works best for me, followed by Hydrate an a plush towel. That's why I ask for some of these products to be sold by the gallon - I go thru Hydrate like beer... but I digress. I just finished the weekend SLK maintenance, and it still looks FANTASTIC!! Keep up the great work!!
This is why having DI water is really important on coated vehicles. A quick final rinse with DI water solves the issue.
You still need to remove the water after a maintenance wash the same way you would without DI water. Blowing and wiping it off immediately after washing solves the problem just the same.
@@seashackf1 Absolutely. DI water just helps considerably.
Could someone explain why when using DI water you still need to blow/wipe to dry? I was hoping with DI since there are no solids in the water it would just evaporate without leaving anything behind. But in reality, I've found fine water spots left behind. I've tried using DI for the whole wash process (ate through my resin fairly quickly) and now use it just for the final rinse which I try to do as thoroughly as possible.
@@VivekDlima I've found that even when using DI water (when mine tests as 0 or 1 PPM) you will still get some water spots. Using DI water for the entire process is quite expensive. You only need the final rinse. I'm no chemist, but I have found then when you blow after a DI rinse, you are displacing some of the hard water in cracks and crevices that you may not have completely gotten in you DI rinse. Blowing will reduce the droplet sizes. The large drops tent o be the ones that cause an issue. Have had no issues with spots when blow drying. If your car is coated, you almost eliminate the need to wipe anything, which greatly reduces the chances of scratching.
@@VivekDlima DI water is not distilled water. There are still things in it that will remain when it evaporates. Even with distilled water you’d still have to dry your car as dust in the air will stick to it when drying, there is no getting around it. Letting water evaporate is never going to give as nice a finish as removing the water immediately.
The simple answer is usually the correct one. Love the content
E-type 😍 a timeless beauty, can’t wait for that episode Larry!
Love it! Best detailing content on YT. Excited for the Jag next week.
Best explanation out there! Also worth mentioning are the street cleaners that blast their pressure washer at the ground getting tiny droplets on your car! From my experience though the water that blows with the air is not harmful…
Man that garage looks so good with the second floor above. 👍
"1300 miles, so it's actually in pretty good shape" 😂 😭
I believe that the total volume of water on the surface of the car is much greater with the beading of the water. With the greater volume comes more minerals (assuming that the mineral content for a giver water source) is consistent). So when the water evaporates the concentration of the minerals rises within each drop. Think about what the total volume of water is that remains on the surface for a car that has sheeting action versus beading action. I suspect it might be a factor of 10 times or greater volume for the beading surface.
Great work AMMO.
My 9 yr ceramic coating had failed in 2 yrs. Or so i thought. I tried everything to get it back with zero results. Until i tried diy detail water spot remover. Im writing this because i was shocked when my ceramic coating hydrophobics was still there. I couldn't believe it. The water minerals literally clogged my coating so badly that it no longer worked. So i highly recommend water spot remover first 😂
All of DIY detail products are amazing. I’ve never tried ammo though. Gives me chemical guys vibes and it’s not anywhere on anyone’s top product list just like chemical guys 😂
@@MisterTrigger21 and overpriced and poor distribution, obviously not worth it if you're not in US
@@jonot8547 yea I’ve never actually looked up AMMO’s price or tried to buy it so I wouldn’t know if it’s not competitive price wise or if it’s hard to get but that sure does seem some downsides to AMMO. That’s why i like to stick to quality, economically priced, and readily available brands such as DIY detail
@@jonot8547 dang it’s rough to hear ammo is overpriced. Never checked the price or tried to get it but that’s another knock on it. That’s why I stick to high quality, decently priced, and readily available products like DIY
@@jonot8547 didn’t know AMMO was overpriced. I haven’t really looked into it because it gave me chemical guy vibes but that’s why I stick to quality brands like DIY. You can get them anywhere. My message keeps getting removed from this so let’s see
Larry, this was very informative. This year has been bad with water spots where I work. We use wheel acid to remove them.
What a great car! the design is out of this world! The color is so spectacular! Love watching these videos! Keep up the amazing work Larry!
Love watching the detailing videos you create. However as a fitness coach, thank you for simplifying what the particular minerals do for the body!
Definitely agree with your theory. I always thought it because of that.
There's a detailer (Scandinavian Detailing)in Sweden that use a filter on his incoming water. He gets ultraclean water and therefor he got no waterspots on the cars he washes. All minerals are filtered out and problem solved. Thank you for all the great tips👍 I apologize for my poor english but i hope you understand 😅
Nice work Larry! Missed you at lime rock this year.
I've also tried multiple different low ph car soaps as well with minimal to no results. I think the key is dwell time, but as a mobile detailer working in the elements all day, it's just not a great option. So I agree, typically I end up resorting to polishing and re-coating/sealing after. Wish there were some products that would help out with the water spots without having to polish.
I have two black cars. They say black is not a color, it’s a full time job. I use Superior Formula 4 spray wax after rinsing off the car after the contact wash. It’s used in car washes as the last step allowing the blowers to blow the rinse water off the car. Doesn’t have any real protection quality just helps push the water off easier.
Try out DIY waterspot remover. Spray on a clean surface and clean towel. Work it in and spray off. Should be faster than busting out the polisher
I love your how to videos. I'm hoping one day you do a how to on polishing windows.
Your theory makes a lot of sense! Good video
Another awesome video that is full of useful information! I have learned so much from your tips and it’s improved my detailing skills so my truck, car & motorcycle look much better! thank you for being so generous and sharing with us ,you’re amazing!
I'm surprised how well you get a finish with a wool pad in different videos 👍🔥I tried to do the same but always got haze and tracers even keeping the pad clean with a pad washer and then going through it again with a soft foam pad
The Mazda in front of the shop needs some love too
I'm not sure that's best for paint, but for glass I have used a kettle descaling product to get rid of water spots. It does the job very well, after which I put on some rain-x and everything is fine.
I am also glad my car has a glass roof and its more forgiving to cleaning methods.
I'm going to try my "Urnex Coffee and Espresso Machine Descaling Powder". Add one packet to one gallon of water for a solution.
Fascinated by your attention to detail. You are an artist. Love your content. Tony UK
Amazing video, as always. I wonder if you have looked into having an RV sediment filter between your outdoor spigot and your garden hose? I have seen a bunch of people who have done this method and although it doesn't necessarily remove 100% of the sediment in the water, it apparently does a really good job at removing a vast majority of it. Possible you can look into it, do some research and possibly do a video on that? I haven't done it myself to be honest, but am considering it..
For water spots, wouldn’t going straight to polishing drive those minerals even further into the clearcoat?
Okay… take a liter of water, add 100g of citric acid powder, 60g of baking soda, and two squirts of dish soap (surfactant)… stir to dissolve the mixture.. spray it on the hard water etchings….
You’re welcome..
From DUBAI with ❤
Liter of distilled or deionized water 😊
@@garyrds of course… goes without saying brother Gary… we’re automotive Detailers..hence, using distilled in all our chemical dilutions..
Love the scientific info behind this. Thanks for the knowledge bomb!
interesting video and amazing car too. well could it be that the sun touching the paint make the minerals go deep easily through the paint, so that's why all those water spots were like that probably?
i can't wait for that jaguar, i love the e type ❤
I have a 2022 BMW X6 and the paint looks good, however I have water spots on the glass that I can get off. How do you suggest doing this one glass?
I was thinking about one of your old videos about beading vs sheeting...so would it make sense to have a coating that sheets instead to avoid the beading and this problem?
I believe it's due to the beads concentrating the minerals into the small..beads, whereas uncoated cars like you said, you have big areas of flat water where the minerals are more evenly dispersed, so when it dries the car still has those minerals, its just evenly coated over the whole car, giving you the false idea that it is cleaner vs the coated car next to it with unsightly waterspots..
I always notice in the parking lots after rain at work, my car being the only coated car, its still wet with beads hours after the rain, but the other regular cars are almost fully dried.. i may have some waterspotting when it dries, but those cars, its easy to see with the contrast of the remaining wet shiny areas, and the dried, dull areas that still definitely have mineral deposits on them
so my takeaway is coated cars are more prone to waterspots yes, because the beads concentrate the minerals/dirt in the water
Uncoated cars do not hold all of those minerals etc into the tiny beads, so it is generally less noticeable - but still just as there as the coated car.
Hi Larry, great video. What about water spots on glass? I have some and I've tried everything to remove them with little success.
Glass polish with cerium oxide
Chemical Guys have a spot remover that actually works. I tried vinegar and clay bar methods but they didn’t work. The CG stuff was a godsend.
I 2nd the chemical guys stuff...i know everyone hates chemical guys...but the spot remover gel worked for me better than every single other "high end" brands i bought and used@JT-LV
Thank you ! I appreciate the knowledge.
Hi there Larry!! I can’t recall any of your videos where you show how to remove mosquitoes without scratching the paint.. that could be a nice one!! Greetings from Spain
Since rainwater is extremely soft (unless you live in a highly polluted and /or dusty areas) these spots are usually caused by sprinklers and most of the times are on one side of the car due to its parked location.
The vinegar solution is a good idea, it never crossed my mind.
This video came just on time!!!
I live in the Caribbean and in the summer time we get a lot of Sahara dust so when it rains the water spots are terrible if left unattended.
Thanks for the FYI. I currently use a dedicated water spot remover. Should I follow your recommendation after the initial treatment? Thanks Larry
Great vid, Larry. Beautiful car, too! 👍
Awesome video as always Larry. Would you say deionizing filter on the final rinse is worthwhile if your water supply is "hard"?
just ordered the 6" sheer buffing pad & X foliate polish also.. 🤞🏽hope it fixes my truck paint.
Beading does not let the water run off the car. So when the bead evaporates the minerals in the bead stay on the car. I have watched water beads stay on the coated part of the hood of my car withstand the wind from driving at 70 mph. The uncoated part was bone dry before I got up to 70 mph.
Id love a video on polishing single stage plastic cladding. My Typhoon's red cladding keeps oxidizing but when I polish it, it leaves pad marks and won't remove cleanly.
Hi there...have you tried using Aluminium brightner mixed 50/50 water?...spray it down and wipe it on with a wet microfibre. Must be done in the shade. I always have great success removing deep water spots without polishing. Let me know if you have tried it out
Prisms disperse light it doesn’t concentrate it like a magnifying glass. So no matter the distance it won’t burn like a magnifying glass. Yes, the increased number of tiny beads allow for quicker evaporation and disposition of the minerals on the surface.
I think the reason a coated car visibly looks like its warer spotted more is not that it has more minerals on the surface but instead that they are more focused by the fact the coatings make the water bead up. If the water is flat and the water spot is therfor flat as well you wont notice it visibly as much
What a gorgeous car
Does it make more water spots with a coating? Perhaps, however in my experience they dont etch as fast or hard into the paint since there is that protective layer it is sitting on. We dont have super hard water but instead i live by a gravel road and the dust and dirt minerals really bites in badly on dry uncoated paint vs on a coated or simply waxed surface.
Beeing a detailer i never have the time to clean my own cars so i just call them off-roaders and stick lights and big tires on them...
Have you ever tried Rinse Aids, such as those used in dishwashers?
I've seen articles and videos saying they do work/help if one has very hard water.
So we polish every time it rains 😁
Seriously, I have problem because water falls from balconies, laundry and cleaning etc. where I park. Almost daily! The problem remains almost wherever I park, so there is no pretty any more options.
Why PPF doesn’t prevent water spots and anyway to remove / minimise them on POF?
yes !! on PPF is even worse.. and idk whyy..i guess it`s the dry time
PPF is softer than clear coat and more prone to getting embedded with minerals. A coating over PPF is helpful
don't you need to remove the minerals from the surface before any polishing? Is vinegar really enough to do that?
The other choice is to have a deionization system (which isn't ridiculously expensive). A good deionization system will remove 95% to 98% of the dissolved metallic ions (Mg++, Ca++ and others) found in tap water. (Very pure water is at least 18 megohms (the higher the megohms, the less likely the water can conduct electricity, therefore the purer and also the less dissolved ions) which means almost all the dissolved metallic ions have been removed). When you rinse the car with DI-water (deionized water) should you allow the DI-water droplets to air dry, you should not see the chalky water spots form. Of course, if you dry the car properly after rinsing it, again, you should NOT see the chalky water spots form either. Rain water, especially acidic rain water (aka acid rain) can contain dissolved minerals as well as, depending on relative humidity, some dissolved salt ions also. On a very hazy day, if it rained, the rain water can contain dissolved ions and dissolved salt ions also.
We measure the acidity or alkalinity of water using a "pH meter". Acid water contains acid ions (namely H+ ions) pH < 7.0 and alkaline water contains dissolved OH- ions and it's pH is >7.0. Water whose pH is 7.0 is "neutral" and is therefore NEITHER acidic or alkaline. Acid or alkaline water can cause damage to your car's paint; thus the need for the paint to be properly waxed to help protect against acid or alkaline water as well as other environmental factors.
Hey Larry, have you found it possible to spot remove water spots with polishing? I notice a difference in shade or color after polishing through the coating. Seems like I have to re-do an entire panel even if the affected area is small. Thanks!
Depends on the coating and how embedded the minerals/water spots are. A finishing polish or cleaner wax may be light enough abrasion to safely maintain coating integrity.
@@AMMO-NYC Thanks!
Ammo, i don't know if u did a video about it already, but u gotta help us with clear coat peeling. Need help on my old car.
I've been hearing about using titanium dioxide on the car for extra shine, have you heard about this?
Brilliant vid
Also chlorine is portable water sauces as from the watermains. This is relevant in Australia.
Browsed through the comments to find this. Minerals alone are not corrosive, the evaporation of chorides embeds the minerals to the paint and corrodes the clear coat.
Chlorine treated tap water
The sunlight refraction thing also doesn't make sense because the surface would never be able to get very hot while water was on top of it. That's just thermodynamics. The hottest it could get would be the boiling point of water, and would likely stay well below that due to evaporative cooling and conducting away to the base metal.
Larry , Can you use titan 12 as a clay lube ?
This is why I wish more coatings promoted sheeting rather than beading. Beading is prettier yeah, but good sheeting makes drying so much easier
What about hard water remover (chemical)?
Does somebody have an idea what coatings are good to prevent water spots?
How do you remove really bad water spots on the glass? I tried clay then vinegar/water and didn't work.
Glass polish with cerium oxide
I have a black car fitted with ppf on the front. The bonnet has very bad water spots. I tried gentle compound and polish but the water spots remain. Should I move to a clay bar or sand? Or remove the ppf and manage the paint?
Hopefully the water spots are in the film and the PPF can just be replaced.
great video. Thank You!
Excellent video ❤👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 regards
This videos applies to me
I detailed cars ( @ a dealer) back in the late 80s in an active steel town… “acid rain” was a nightmare. Lots of cutting brand new soft paint… (not good) nothing was an easy solution.
Was reading in forums the other day that polishing can push the minerals deeper into the paint. Any truth to that?
If you do not remove the minerals by chemical or mechanical means before polishing. You just might have the water spots reappear. Remove the minerals, then polish to be sure.
Water spots are my enemy. Seriously though, I need help getting the deepest water spots out of my side view mirrors. My 2020 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Nissan 370z repeatedly accumulate more and more water spots I can't remove. I've even used steel wool, and nothing works.
Secondly, I feel that windshield laminate bubbles(they're not pits)in the sunlight over time and wondered your opinion on that. I've noticed a serious degradation in general with automotive glass.
I think this depends mostly on your Financial Capability because for me the most important thing is a Clear Windshield specially when its pouring rain hard
What do you recommend for water spots on glass? I’ve tried 50/50 vinegar and a few other products.
Sodium carbonate (‘bicarbonate of soda). Google it
Same as paint, it depends on how long they have been there.
If no chemicals seem to remove it, it may be a good idea to clay and polish the windows👍🏼
It would be good to see what Larry recommends here, would 0000 steel wool be suitable also?
Being careful of any window wires, going wiping in the direction of the wires not against them (preferably trying to avoid).
@@sw9837 I used once limescale shower remover … it’s works like a treat
I use glass polish by hand foam pad. Also coatings are available for glass. Sunroofs are worse for water spots and I haven't polished mine yet.
Larry do you ever do any in person training events? I’m located in Connecticut
This is why I stopped washing at home and switched to a self-service car wash subscription that uses reverse osmosis triple-filtered water for the final rinse.
Paint is easier to correct but how do we remove these from the glass?
And now I have "Dub Duuuuh Duh Duh, Duh...." On repeat in my head. (If you know, you know)😄
Can you do a similar video on how to remove these from glass?
Similar process. There’s over the counter water spot removers for glass. For more severe case, use a glass polish with cerium oxide.
@@AMMO-NYC Thanks for the response!
Water spots only appear on clean cars where the water beads up. Walk down any parking lot after it rains. Cars with beads stay wet longer and dirty un waxed or un coated cars are dry in minutes on a summer day. On the uncoated dirty car, Dirt and dust left on the surface spreads the water out evenly where it dries very fast just like the salt patty illustration. In both scenarios minerals are left on the paint. However, one leaves the minerals in the shape of “spots” and one does not. Sorry Larry, your theory is kind of wrong since the beads take longer to dry, I’ve observed this looking at my clean coated car next to my neighbors uncoated dirty car all the time.
I love your content, have for years. I’m just theorizing too 😂 but this is my observation. Keep giving me the vids and your opinion. I love it!
Why aren’t you using a dedicated Water Spot Remover? Or you can use Meguiar’s Wheel Brightener, diluted 5 to 1. Not vinegar.
Cool
Say in a modern and dynamic future car coatings get enriched by these minerals, instead of speckled..
Quick shout goes out to:
Washing the new 22 Mustang CS…
Yaaah!
Ethanoic acid (vinegar ) is not a mild acid , actually the pH is polar + strong. People have a myth that vinegar is mild when actually it is not . Source Royalsociety of chemistry.
NEVER Let Water Sit
On Your Car in the Sun!!!
I believe that TH-cam's broken. how can such a huge channel release a highly informative video and get so comparatively little views?
(I know, this happens to other channels as well.)
this makes me kind of sad. he used to have more views when he had a tenth of the current subscribers 🤷♂️
putting a ceramic coating over soft subaru paint on a daily driver made me go insane. It was impossible to avoid water spots and I couldn't polish out etchings without having to recoat the car.
At 5:44 did you say “spit”?
It’s one of his products.
Hi
Blowing out your pad destroys it. Get a lake country pad cleaner
I just leave it out in the rain to get the spots out
👍🏼👍🏼
So you think this will work on my clear glass shower door.. cuz ill go grab my buffer