As an ex-detailer just a few things to note: cheap clay bars can get the job done just as well as more expensive ones. A good lube is often more important, soapy water is a no go as it's technically a degreaser and tends to dry out, you can use something like heavily diluted Optimum No Rinse and it'll cost pence (cents for you americans) per bottle. In regards to polishing, technique and patience are the most important factors. Rushing over it will create inconsistent results that won't have the desired outcome. Take your time and don't use too much product as you'll just get slinging, four large dots on your pad, tamp the bad on the body in small areas, then gently brush the product around with the pad and start the machine low to move it around to the desired areas, then work in a crossing pattern always running straight or parralell. A cheap Das6 DA will be more than enough for most people, coupled with a decent quality pad (chemical guys hex logic for example) and returning to the argument for compound then polish, I honestly got the exact same results in less time using a better quality combination product than used here, such as Scholl S20 Black, it's a fairly heavy cut but if you don't abuse it, it'll work better than the Meg's shown on here. Regardless of the cheap ceramic performance, the longevity is often awful, more expensive products last 6+ months with proper care (if you go to a car wash it'll last very little time), but the cheap stuff will last 1 month or so before beginning to fail. As another pro to PPF, a lot are now self healing so any scratches you do get will 'heal' under heat, making the mark pretty much disappear.
Great comment.. even though most of it went over my head at this stage I'll enjoy deciphering it. I thought ceramic coating was meant to last years not months? I'm confused. Also can you jet wash a ceramic coating car? Lastly... So ceramic is actually nano technology and not anything ceramic at all?
thank you @donut for giving our detail boys some love. So many people out there do not understand the time and energy it takes to actually clean a car properly,
@@nox6438 i mean one you would get every couple months not the ppf or clear coat application, where a detail costing 1k would be just you getting ripped tf off
@@djc1485 I don’t have it personally, but everyone I’m acquainted with that has it enjoys it for drainage. You just have to lift it up and clean under every so often
The main issue is that these types of comparisons is they ignore the law of diminishing returns. Of course the absolute cheapest stuff will not compare to the most expensive, however the difference from $10 to $50 ceramic coating will be *massive* accounting for like 90% improvement while the difference between $50 to $250 ceramic coating will be much less noticeable with maybe 10% extra improvement beyond the average costing products. The other part is at least having the reasonably priced right tools for the job even for the cheaper products.
As a detailer, a lot of those cheaper products can still get the job done to similar levels of the expensive stuff. That's where the detailers skill comes into place and what you're ultimately paying for. Anyone can pick up a pad and polisher, but not everyone can get a 90% correction using the same tools. Also in the detailing industry, more expensive usually means less hassle but a lot of people tend to think more expensive = better product. It's all in the technique. I would love more detailing episodes tbh.
Detailing is like getting a new paint job, 75%(or the majority, anyway) of the end product is how good the person doing the work is and how many hours they put into it.
Meh, no, anyone with a few years experience can achieve similar results if they use as many steps, as long as they don't over-do any step. I suppose that's a little bit where experience comes in, and going slower, just as anyone doing anything to an automobile, ought to work slower if they want the same results that a pro can do faster. Remember, most of what was shown in the video was just a waste of time. It had bare spots where the clear coat was gone, so none of that really mattered, whole thing needed wet sanded and clearcoated before anything they did.
Okay Donut. I really appreciate the effort you put in to share some of the ins and outs of detailing. That being said, as a professional I found some issues with this video. 1. Clay bar isn't actually clay. From what I understand it's synthetic but just going by that definition doesn't make it the same as other "clay bars". Clay BARS are abrasive. They can mar the paint but they're good at lifting deeply embedded contaminants. Clay mitts and towels are generally considered non abrasive given proper lubrication. DIY Detail takes pride in there perforated clay towel because it holds more lubrication and has passage ways for contaminates to lift away from the paint. 2. In my opinion, the 2 bucket method is outdated and inefficient. It's much more effective to have multiple wash media in a single bucket whether its wash mitts or wash towels. Discard them into an empty bucket so you're always starting with a perfectly clean mitt or towel. Clean them in your downtime. 3. 13:27. This is actually what gave me the motivation to stop watching the video on the couch and start writing this comment. I've spent so much of my time learning from my mistakes and from others when it comes to paint correction. Heat is not your friend. You DO NOT heat up the paint to cut faster. You're jeopardizing the integrity of the clear coat with excessive heat making it swell and drying out your compound/polishing cream faster. If you need to cut fast, use a compound with a microfiber cutting pad. Use enough compound to lubricate the pad, but don't overly saturate it. A clean pad will always cut faster than a dirty residue loaded pad. A pad washer is a game changer. If this is STILL not enough, then you need to wet sand. At this point you really need to know what you're doing. If you're just coming up into paint correction, it's really easy to get into the mindset of pulling out all the big guns and beating the paint into submission. Keep in mind, you're working on one of the most expensive pieces of the car and the clear coat is finite. The goal is to get good results while preserving as much as you possibly can.
Fantastic advice. You know your stuff. I did a double take on the heating the paint comment. In absolutely no reality is that true, and as you stated it's the opposite of what's needed to properly level a substrate.
For 99% of people Turtle wax hybrid solutions, Griots 3in1, meguiars etc is all you need to add a strong yet extremely cheap 6 month to a year ceramic coating to your car. All you need is two buckets, a packet of microfiber towels from Costco, car soap, iron remover, ceramic spray, interior cleaner, and most importantly elbow grease. If you have a new car or a car that still has good paint stay away from automatic or diy car washes, the brushes will absolutely swirl and scratch your paint.
Hoonigan has been showing off their cars getting detailed for the last month. I love that you guys are actually comparing different products and techniques. Your videos Give me the confidence to work on my car by myself, and make it so much easier to accept the failures.
Hope you make a video on how to clean and detail further on : - Different Products to get back deep blacks on plastic trims and panels - Headlight restoration (Polishing,Steaming, or Spraying a new layer of clear coat) - Chrome and Exhaust tip restoration products - Grease for Doors and Mechanical parts - Glass cleaning products (Spritus, normal glass cleaner, special car glass cleaner etc.)
Typically for black plastics that are faded you are going to want to restore those with a solution dye. If not use Shine Supply Trim Sauce to give it temporary shine. Headlight Restoration is tricky and should be done by a professional. Typically gets multiple steps of sanding before polish to get a clear finish. For Chrome I personally use Aluminum Restoration I believe it’s called. It’s typically an acid that you have to heavily dilute with water but the results of scrubbing within a few seconds is phenomenal. For glass cleaner I prefer 3D’s new line of Cermaic Glass Cleaner. Use 1 rag to clean the glass and another to buff out the streaks. There’s my professional detail advice for you :)
@@austinpls8258headlight restoration is an easy DIY, don't pay someone $100+ for it. As someone who works for a detailer I can tell you it's a ripoff. Personally, I got the sylvania kit and achieved like new results with it. If you have a polisher, it can be even better
The most important part about detailing is prep. it's like painting if you start good you're gonna end good. Make a mistake with prep or early on and it's gonna show at the end. The reason you pay a pro is for their time, detailing, paint and body is one of those more artistic things and unless you know what you're doing it's gonna show at the end.
The cheap stuff can achieve the same results but it requires A LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT of time. Professional tools and products really help cut time. IN extreme cases it could be 10 times faster. When i couldn't afford the expensive stuff i used to clean my summer 19" wheels in the bathroom with kitchen degreaser, regular car soap and a toothbrush. Took my about 2 hours per wheel to be satisfied with the result. An entire 8 hour workday to clean 4 wheels. The brake dust simply wasn't coming out. The first time i tried the expensive stuff i was done with all 4 wheels in under an hour. They looked exactly the same at the end, but i didn't spend 8 fricking hours brushing and cleaning. Ever since then whenever i do something cosmetic on my car, i buy the premium stuff. For tools i try to get the middle of the range - not too expensive or too cheap, but polishers, coats, degreasers... For them only the best there is.
I think it's hard to compare when multiple variables are being changed... What if you bought cheap cleaner but great brushes?? Another huge factor is price... The expensive stuff is obviously going to be better, but is it 5X better? Is it 25X better? The prices are just insanely higher
as with most things you want to be in the middle mothers's clay bar and quick detailer is 30 bucks and is more then enough for example. You could use meguarir's APC instead of a wheel cleaner if the wheels aren't cooked with brake dust which would be cheaper then wheel cleaners at $15~, Plenty of things to cut cost depending on the job needed to be done
@@hundredlives3910 We must also keep in mind that, the product selection within the price point can be just as important as the price point itself. Ceramic coatings usually give you at least a couple of years of protection, but I honestly don't expect the $10 coating to make it past 5 or 6 months. A 16 oz bottle of Seal n' Shine is $11 and is guaranteed to get me at least 6 months of protection. 16 FL OZ is a lot of product, so you can use it on multiple cars or just cap it up and use it a few months down the line. :)
The markup on ceramics is HUGE. I can buy 50ML for like £23 A product performing similar from a major brand is £90-£150.... They are making great margins at £23 too... Consider that.
So, if I get my 15yr old Miata, the cheap stuff is probably the way I want to go. Crazy how much difference the expensive stuff showed. When I get a newer car, getting PPE and some nicer stuff seems like the pretty clear way to go.
I used the cheap stuff and surprisingly it was still going strong 2 years later when I sold the car. Occasional spray wax as a topper once a year. It was decent stuff for $20.
Yeah you don't need the expensive stuff if you just want your car to look nice and don't care about the little scratches and fine details. Plus if your selling a car and it's not like a ferrari or something, then you don't need the expensive stuff to bring up the value. Just need it to not look old, heck that's how ya fool people into buying a car with issues.
I used $20 foretoo ceramic coating on my wife's car. Outside 24/7. Was probably washed twice in 2 years. You can tell it's fading but it's still beads when it rains.
Pretty fun video! A little late to the party here, but I beg anyone watching this as someone looking to get into detailing, either just for their own car or professionally, to look further than this when choosing your arsenal or products and tools. The real winning products are often somewhere in between! Detailing can be fun and really rewarding, and you really don't need a Rupes polisher or a 5 grand pressure washer to do it.
From a lot of things, mid to high expensive things tend to be the best. The most expensive might not be worth the cost I.E a rip off, and the cheap things have cut corners to get it cheap. So I'm curious how this will go!
I always buy middle-shelf when I don't know exactly what I'm getting myself into, because it's usually most likely to just work out of the box. The top of the line stuff is usually unforgiving of mistakes and takes a lot of setup, and the cheap stuff is just untrustworthy. Mid-tier doesn't usually have the bells and whistles to worry about, but it's still made well enough that you know it shouldn't break in normal use.
I would agree that as a rule of thumb, you can expect a mid-range product to work pretty well and offer some bang for the buck, but we should also place more emphasis on product selection within the price point. I don't know how long that $10 ceramic coating will last, but I don't expect it to last very long. However, a 16 oz bottle of Turtle Wax ICE Seal n' Shine will cost you $11 and is guaranteed to give you at least 6 months of protection. One bottle has enough product to use on several cars, or you can just tightly close the bottle and store it in a warm, dry place to use 6 months down the line when you reapply the product. :)
Yup. Upper end of the mid-range is usually the sweet spot. There are exceptions in both directions, but it's a good rule of thumb to hang out there or at least start there.
Also have to understand why it is high stuff to begin with. Unfortunately the high side is high (minus polisher and maybe ceramic coat) is due to marketing and not necessarily performance. Chemical guys has some gems, but they are mostly decent. Meguairs professional products (even the claybar) would have done a better job at a lower price to whatever they priced their CG and Jay Leno stuff.
As a professional... most cost of coatings is marketing! The finish and durability are all done to the prep (polishing etc) Soap / water honestly is fine for clay Polish before coating Find a good branded coating (Gyeon etc) for reasonable money 30ML will do most cars comfortably Don't believe anything like "diamond paint pros" or any thing too good to be true... it is! I enjoyed watching anyway irrespectively 😅❤
As a professional detailer i can tell you the $10 stuff would be about as effective as spray wax but much more labour intensive to apply. You get what you pay for. Ive done tests and the cheap stuff ive tested, because the sales rep has said its as good, didnt even last 3 months whereas the (expensive) professional brand i use lasted 6 yrs in Aussie sun without being garaged
Love this content. Nolan did a great job explaining the benefits of ceramic coating. I would like the maintenance to be mentioned as a coating only last if it’s being maintained. Ppf has definitely taken over the protection part of detailing.
I’ve used the plumbers putty. It works just a little messy because it so soft. I recommend putting it in the fridge for a few hours and maybe clay bar in cooler weather as it helps keep it harder.
@@russelljacob7955 Not if you thought you had clay bar but looked in your cabinet and there is none, and just want to get the job done already. Lesson there is same as always, assemble all materials before starting a project, including buying the clay bar in bulk to get better pricing.
One thing you guys did incorrectly was rinsing first. You have to foam first to get the dirt lubricated. Than rinse to remove most dirt. So foam, rinse, foam, hand wash than rinse and dry.
If anyone is actually curious about the longevity of several ceramic coatings, go watch Scott HD’s channel. He’s tested literally hundreds of products and it’s extremely thorough. Also, some of the best ceramic coatings on the market are right around $100, so $250 is wild to me!
@@240TechGuyI was commenting on the actual products they used, just providing a plug for people who may be interested in learning about how ceramics and other products compare.
After the polish you should have divided the bonnet in 4 and applied both ceramic coatings to each side to see if they performed better or worse vs the prep work prior to application
As a detailer, One80 Details, I love this video. Yes PPF is the way to go but for a normal person/everyday car, ceramic makes sense.(especially in AZ) One of my favorite Donut videos! Cheers to the Donut squad!
@@stefanb18 Is a Camry TRD. A 2021 with the Ice Edge color. So it has the black with blue metallic roof. It literally went straight from show room to detailer. Getting PPF on the roof was extremely good value. No way it would have stayed nice. Edit: Fixed a typo. Said dealership, not detailer.
The thing about experience is it also means knowing the best product to use to get each situation done in the best way possible without harming the car, and in the least amount of time. And sometimes, that product is expensive. I’d say, to a certain extent, more experience also needs more expensive items.
That reminds me, if you have the time and money, ceramic coating any touchscreens that you use everyday is an incredible upgrade you can get for yourself. There are guides on how to do it properly, and your phone/tablet's screen will feel buttery smooth and "brand new" for years, far, far longer than the oleophobic coatings that they come with stock (including any and all screen protectors)
Just a quick tip 😅 Clay bars are more aggressive but also more likely to mar the paint. Whereas a synthetic clay mit is considerably less likely to mar and need a polish but the catch is that it's not as aggressive. Also you can chemically decontaminate prior to physical decon. My 2 cents nobody asks for 😂
I tried using a $50 ceramic coat on my car before, but since I didn't have a dry place like a garage, my valiant efforts to make the car look shiny and sleek only made the effect last few weeks. Did the car wash with pressure washer, clay bar, the whole nine yards. Spent about 7 hours on a sedan. Cost of all my products was around $400. To save time now by not spending more hours to do my truck, I made an appointment few days ago to have it done by professionals. Full detailing and cleaning followed by a two day ceramic coat application process with a 10H product. Total cost around $1100.
Okay so 2 things: 1- Justin, you've come so far! HUGE difference in the way you host these videos compared to a year ago! Kudos to you! 2- This was an excellent video. As a guy that is really into keeping my vehicules ultra clean, I gotta say this gave me a great idea of where I should pay more for my products Vs pay less and just take my time.
best video you guys made in a while, you guys always had an intrest to learn more about anything car related and i loved that about you. So keep learning and sharing whatever you may stumble upon so we may all learn more about the thing we love. Cars
I'm sorry, but the level of scientific inquiry is really low with these comparisons. They have been for years (with a couple of exceptions). You actually said, "The free-ish two bucket method and the $5,000 power washer system have the same results, but obviously we're giving it to the $5,000 washer." Ummm...if you're only talking about quality of the product itself....then sure. It will be the better, more expensive product every time. In that case, what are you testing? Are you suggesting I should get the $5,000 pressure washer for my home because it's cooler despite the results being negligible per your own testing? It's just a bit frustrating since this could be a lot better with minimal effort. I mean, the whole premise of having two compounding variables doesn't really make sense either. You paired professionals with bad products and novices with good products. Neither of those scenarios typically exist in the wild. I again ask "What are you testing? What's the point of the video?" Just find a variable and test it. Get a professional to try both products and tell us what he/she thinks. Done. That would be much more useful. "I think with towels, you can go with something cheaper because....". That's more useful than "You should be a $5,000 pressure washer for your home because it makes things a bit easier."
My Father taught me, when I was young, over 50 years ago. He told me with time, effort, and attention to detail you can overcome almost any challenge you may face in life. These wise words from a man to had to leave school in the 8th grade (14 years old) to help his family. He wasn't educated, but he was wise.
The fact that Ive been watching way too many car detailing vids to the point where it’s taken over my entire recommended feed, and then you guys just happened to drop this video now is just pleasantly funny
I love got my truck done at ceramic pro with ceramic all the way around and a PPF front for my bumper and hood and honestly it’s been worth it. When it gets dirty and has water spots you take a foam cannon to it and a pressure washer and it all comes off. For my tint and PPF was almost 3 grand but it’s been worth it. When I got into my fender bender the paint transfer from both cars that hit me came right off and you can’t even tell other than my one spot that popped off. Buy once and cry once!
Imagine a detail competition like that cook off show where people pay for challenges for the other person like; one person's water hose is replaced with a water bottle, or switching out someone's shammy for paper towels to dry their car lol
The entire point of a foam cannon is to be able to spray it on and let the foam break down and drag dirt off without touching it. You're supposed to foam cannon, wash it off after it sits for a bit, then maybe follow it up with a bucket and mitt wash. Foam cannons are extremely inefficient when it comes to the amount of soap used, hence you're wasting money if you use a foam cannon to spray it on just to immediately hit it with a mitt.
little story i've mistakenly dryied my car using a microfiber towel that I used with CarPro's PERL and i got the same results as a ceramic coating for 3 weeks. Now i just mist my wet clean car with a 1.50 ratio from a spray bottle , dry it and BAM, syrup coated again . All my previous waxes are now aging on a shelf as this is the best results I have seen so far with no visible damage to the paint. If any one has PERL , try it on a single panel, you will be surprised.
My favorite product is hybrid ceramic spray wax. After a wash while the car is still wet, you spray it on and buff it in while you dry with a microfiber cloth. It doesnt last as long as legit ceramic, but it cheap and super simple to apply. Looks just as good, just need to be reapplied more often.
You guys should start a series where you test proffesionals their experience VS beginners with crazy tools. Something like this! Just the name is different. Experience VS tools
Products 100% make a difference and the Dual action polisher prevents you from burning through the clear coat..If you have a normal orbital polisher, you have to be careful to not burn through. Iron remover is also a good step bfor polishing and ceramic coat.
Would love to see the boys using the good stuff vs the pros using their everyday stuff. Question is how close can you get to the true professional result with the most expensive at home tools.
Been detailing for years now and out off all the polishing/buffers ive used that rupes is by far my favorite. Pair it with the rupes compounds its a great day paint correcting 😂 i can say you dont need the most expensive stuff out there but definitely dont get the cheapest, it could cost you more in the long run.
The cool things I learned was high end cars like mercs and bmw are so nice to work on and restore. My aunt and uncle had a 95 merc and I would wash a wax it for free. Since I was young but learning on my Saturn which I got to look amazing was how different the paint was on there’re car. When you do all the steps correctly and use quality products the end results were amazing like new.
When it comes to wheels and tires it 100% is about the products. That is one category that I will always spend the money, it makes a huge difference and saves time.
This is kind of an interesting inversion on Jobe's old "DIY or Don't" formula (at least, that's what it felt like). Except I kinda like seeing the difference in amateurs using top-tier specialty gear/products vs. professionals using something your average person would pick up at the store.
Really enjoyed this! It was cool to see how well the pros did even handicapped. I occasionally watch detailing content over on Detail Geek and it's fun to see these kinds of crossovers!
Yes more detailing content. I wanna get the black on my truck to be really nice and I would love to see you guys explain how I should do it. I only trust donut content lol
Cool vid. Some more "how to" cleaning/polishing vids would be cool. Must admit to being a little afraid of screwing the paint on our cars to use orbitals etc.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Props to the detailers. They seem like cool dudes.
These types of comments and people who leave them are basically trying to let everyone know there g*y without coming out and saying it
@@trillnix3043you need a hobby
@@trillnix3043what a nerd holy shit
@@trillnix3043or you could not
Are you taking the piss you can clean the car and save the lives
As an ex-detailer just a few things to note: cheap clay bars can get the job done just as well as more expensive ones.
A good lube is often more important, soapy water is a no go as it's technically a degreaser and tends to dry out, you can use something like heavily diluted Optimum No Rinse and it'll cost pence (cents for you americans) per bottle.
In regards to polishing, technique and patience are the most important factors. Rushing over it will create inconsistent results that won't have the desired outcome. Take your time and don't use too much product as you'll just get slinging, four large dots on your pad, tamp the bad on the body in small areas, then gently brush the product around with the pad and start the machine low to move it around to the desired areas, then work in a crossing pattern always running straight or parralell. A cheap Das6 DA will be more than enough for most people, coupled with a decent quality pad (chemical guys hex logic for example) and returning to the argument for compound then polish, I honestly got the exact same results in less time using a better quality combination product than used here, such as Scholl S20 Black, it's a fairly heavy cut but if you don't abuse it, it'll work better than the Meg's shown on here.
Regardless of the cheap ceramic performance, the longevity is often awful, more expensive products last 6+ months with proper care (if you go to a car wash it'll last very little time), but the cheap stuff will last 1 month or so before beginning to fail.
As another pro to PPF, a lot are now self healing so any scratches you do get will 'heal' under heat, making the mark pretty much disappear.
Great comment.. even though most of it went over my head at this stage I'll enjoy deciphering it. I thought ceramic coating was meant to last years not months? I'm confused. Also can you jet wash a ceramic coating car? Lastly... So ceramic is actually nano technology and not anything ceramic at all?
Glad Nolan was finally on high team 😂
He's high alright...
@@joshuagibson2520no
Any idea who’s going to be at low team next time? Is it just Jer now? 🤣
Hope he doesn't like it too much. I'm always cheering for low team!
Less James and more Nolan is always a good thing.
thank you @donut for giving our detail boys some love. So many people out there do not understand the time and energy it takes to actually clean a car properly,
especially with a neglected car
@WidowMaker3786 oh I know what that's like
i can see the honesty in the professionals' soul
true professionals
they’re gonna honestly charge you 500 dollars for a detail
@@glareicebutts1423 considering the cost, time and quality of products they use, $500 is a damn good price
@@glareicebutts1423 A detail worth 1000
@@nox6438 i mean one you would get every couple months not the ppf or clear coat application, where a detail costing 1k would be just you getting ripped tf off
As a professional detailer, i would love to see more of this stuff from you guys! Im also really jealous of their detail shop, it looks so good!
Thank you guys for using our shop for this video! 🙌 Love the way it came out!
You guys have a dope shop. Super jealous!
I agree, it's a dream!
From the detailing industry, thank you for being educational and transparent on the products/skills. ❤
Does that flooring drain well?
@@djc1485 I don’t have it personally, but everyone I’m acquainted with that has it enjoys it for drainage. You just have to lift it up and clean under every so often
The main issue is that these types of comparisons is they ignore the law of diminishing returns. Of course the absolute cheapest stuff will not compare to the most expensive, however the difference from $10 to $50 ceramic coating will be *massive* accounting for like 90% improvement while the difference between $50 to $250 ceramic coating will be much less noticeable with maybe 10% extra improvement beyond the average costing products. The other part is at least having the reasonably priced right tools for the job even for the cheaper products.
Seeing you guys on actual ads is the first time I have not skipped an ad in a while. It’s so good to see actual car people on commercials.
they use to do animated ones that were great too
@@michaelrogers6008i didn't like the animated ones
As a detailer, a lot of those cheaper products can still get the job done to similar levels of the expensive stuff. That's where the detailers skill comes into place and what you're ultimately paying for.
Anyone can pick up a pad and polisher, but not everyone can get a 90% correction using the same tools. Also in the detailing industry, more expensive usually means less hassle but a lot of people tend to think more expensive = better product. It's all in the technique.
I would love more detailing episodes tbh.
Detailing is like getting a new paint job, 75%(or the majority, anyway) of the end product is how good the person doing the work is and how many hours they put into it.
Meh, no, anyone with a few years experience can achieve similar results if they use as many steps, as long as they don't over-do any step. I suppose that's a little bit where experience comes in, and going slower, just as anyone doing anything to an automobile, ought to work slower if they want the same results that a pro can do faster.
Remember, most of what was shown in the video was just a waste of time. It had bare spots where the clear coat was gone, so none of that really mattered, whole thing needed wet sanded and clearcoated before anything they did.
Now have the pros do yalls side again but with their usual tools they use, and see how much we better it looks 😂
Agree 100%
Dew it!
I was expecting that. And by the way I have 20 years of experience and enjoyed this video
I'd like to see that as a post script - a 5-minute video on the boot/trunk - everyone would watch that.
The Apple Watch getting washed many times lol
Okay Donut. I really appreciate the effort you put in to share some of the ins and outs of detailing. That being said, as a professional I found some issues with this video.
1. Clay bar isn't actually clay. From what I understand it's synthetic but just going by that definition doesn't make it the same as other "clay bars". Clay BARS are abrasive. They can mar the paint but they're good at lifting deeply embedded contaminants. Clay mitts and towels are generally considered non abrasive given proper lubrication. DIY Detail takes pride in there perforated clay towel because it holds more lubrication and has passage ways for contaminates to lift away from the paint.
2. In my opinion, the 2 bucket method is outdated and inefficient. It's much more effective to have multiple wash media in a single bucket whether its wash mitts or wash towels. Discard them into an empty bucket so you're always starting with a perfectly clean mitt or towel. Clean them in your downtime.
3. 13:27. This is actually what gave me the motivation to stop watching the video on the couch and start writing this comment. I've spent so much of my time learning from my mistakes and from others when it comes to paint correction. Heat is not your friend. You DO NOT heat up the paint to cut faster. You're jeopardizing the integrity of the clear coat with excessive heat making it swell and drying out your compound/polishing cream faster.
If you need to cut fast, use a compound with a microfiber cutting pad. Use enough compound to lubricate the pad, but don't overly saturate it. A clean pad will always cut faster than a dirty residue loaded pad. A pad washer is a game changer. If this is STILL not enough, then you need to wet sand. At this point you really need to know what you're doing.
If you're just coming up into paint correction, it's really easy to get into the mindset of pulling out all the big guns and beating the paint into submission. Keep in mind, you're working on one of the most expensive pieces of the car and the clear coat is finite. The goal is to get good results while preserving as much as you possibly can.
Fantastic advice. You know your stuff. I did a double take on the heating the paint comment. In absolutely no reality is that true, and as you stated it's the opposite of what's needed to properly level a substrate.
Donut is like Saturday morning cartoons for overworked adults like me
For 99% of people Turtle wax hybrid solutions, Griots 3in1, meguiars etc is all you need to add a strong yet extremely cheap 6 month to a year ceramic coating to your car. All you need is two buckets, a packet of microfiber towels from Costco, car soap, iron remover, ceramic spray, interior cleaner, and most importantly elbow grease. If you have a new car or a car that still has good paint stay away from automatic or diy car washes, the brushes will absolutely swirl and scratch your paint.
That ending transition where you guys are saying thanks for watching in the reflection of the paint was pretty clever 🔥
meh
No one cares
Hoonigan has been showing off their cars getting detailed for the last month. I love that you guys are actually comparing different products and techniques. Your videos Give me the confidence to work on my car by myself, and make it so much easier to accept the failures.
Hope you make a video on how to clean and detail further on :
- Different Products to get back deep blacks on plastic trims and panels
- Headlight restoration (Polishing,Steaming, or Spraying a new layer of clear coat)
- Chrome and Exhaust tip restoration products
- Grease for Doors and Mechanical parts
- Glass cleaning products (Spritus, normal glass cleaner, special car glass cleaner etc.)
For glass I use glass cleaner and then wipe them with a little wax to protect them and to make water slide off better
I think Chris Fix has a pretty exhaustive headlight restoration product comparison (if I remember correctly)
@@jspaulding4106 you just can't forget the blinker fluid at the end of the process, regardless of how you go about the actual restoration.
Typically for black plastics that are faded you are going to want to restore those with a solution dye. If not use Shine Supply Trim Sauce to give it temporary shine.
Headlight Restoration is tricky and should be done by a professional. Typically gets multiple steps of sanding before polish to get a clear finish.
For Chrome I personally use Aluminum Restoration I believe it’s called. It’s typically an acid that you have to heavily dilute with water but the results of scrubbing within a few seconds is phenomenal.
For glass cleaner I prefer 3D’s new line of Cermaic Glass Cleaner. Use 1 rag to clean the glass and another to buff out the streaks.
There’s my professional detail advice for you :)
@@austinpls8258headlight restoration is an easy DIY, don't pay someone $100+ for it. As someone who works for a detailer I can tell you it's a ripoff. Personally, I got the sylvania kit and achieved like new results with it. If you have a polisher, it can be even better
The most important part about detailing is prep. it's like painting if you start good you're gonna end good. Make a mistake with prep or early on and it's gonna show at the end. The reason you pay a pro is for their time, detailing, paint and body is one of those more artistic things and unless you know what you're doing it's gonna show at the end.
Y'all should definitely put up more detailing content. Super fun to watch with a Donut twist!
I want Jimmy to be a regular member
i love the detailing episodes. this honestly taught me some things
The cheap stuff can achieve the same results but it requires A LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT of time. Professional tools and products really help cut time. IN extreme cases it could be 10 times faster. When i couldn't afford the expensive stuff i used to clean my summer 19" wheels in the bathroom with kitchen degreaser, regular car soap and a toothbrush. Took my about 2 hours per wheel to be satisfied with the result. An entire 8 hour workday to clean 4 wheels. The brake dust simply wasn't coming out. The first time i tried the expensive stuff i was done with all 4 wheels in under an hour. They looked exactly the same at the end, but i didn't spend 8 fricking hours brushing and cleaning. Ever since then whenever i do something cosmetic on my car, i buy the premium stuff. For tools i try to get the middle of the range - not too expensive or too cheap, but polishers, coats, degreasers... For them only the best there is.
I think it's hard to compare when multiple variables are being changed... What if you bought cheap cleaner but great brushes??
Another huge factor is price... The expensive stuff is obviously going to be better, but is it 5X better? Is it 25X better? The prices are just insanely higher
as with most things you want to be in the middle mothers's clay bar and quick detailer is 30 bucks and is more then enough for example. You could use meguarir's APC instead of a wheel cleaner if the wheels aren't cooked with brake dust which would be cheaper then wheel cleaners at $15~, Plenty of things to cut cost depending on the job needed to be done
My thoughts exactly. This test means nothing in the end. Too many variables
250 bucks?! 😂
@@hundredlives3910 We must also keep in mind that, the product selection within the price point can be just as important as the price point itself. Ceramic coatings usually give you at least a couple of years of protection, but I honestly don't expect the $10 coating to make it past 5 or 6 months. A 16 oz bottle of Seal n' Shine is $11 and is guaranteed to get me at least 6 months of protection. 16 FL OZ is a lot of product, so you can use it on multiple cars or just cap it up and use it a few months down the line. :)
The markup on ceramics is HUGE.
I can buy 50ML for like £23
A product performing similar from a major brand is £90-£150....
They are making great margins at £23 too...
Consider that.
That e39 is a beauty. Hope it will get restored
So, if I get my 15yr old Miata, the cheap stuff is probably the way I want to go. Crazy how much difference the expensive stuff showed. When I get a newer car, getting PPE and some nicer stuff seems like the pretty clear way to go.
Nolan is crushing the “I’m turning into a 40 year old man” transition.
I used the cheap stuff and surprisingly it was still going strong 2 years later when I sold the car. Occasional spray wax as a topper once a year. It was decent stuff for $20.
Yeah you don't need the expensive stuff if you just want your car to look nice and don't care about the little scratches and fine details. Plus if your selling a car and it's not like a ferrari or something, then you don't need the expensive stuff to bring up the value. Just need it to not look old, heck that's how ya fool people into buying a car with issues.
I used $20 foretoo ceramic coating on my wife's car. Outside 24/7. Was probably washed twice in 2 years. You can tell it's fading but it's still beads when it rains.
beads mean dirt and is not good @@rshinn8776
I used it on my motorcycle windshield, after 2 years it still beads and sheds water and resistant to dirt scratch from washing, best 10 bucks ever.
The reason you found it ‘strong’ was because you sprayed wax over it. Wax on top of ceramic is a huge no-no
Pretty fun video! A little late to the party here, but I beg anyone watching this as someone looking to get into detailing, either just for their own car or professionally, to look further than this when choosing your arsenal or products and tools. The real winning products are often somewhere in between! Detailing can be fun and really rewarding, and you really don't need a Rupes polisher or a 5 grand pressure washer to do it.
From a lot of things, mid to high expensive things tend to be the best. The most expensive might not be worth the cost I.E a rip off, and the cheap things have cut corners to get it cheap. So I'm curious how this will go!
I always buy middle-shelf when I don't know exactly what I'm getting myself into, because it's usually most likely to just work out of the box. The top of the line stuff is usually unforgiving of mistakes and takes a lot of setup, and the cheap stuff is just untrustworthy. Mid-tier doesn't usually have the bells and whistles to worry about, but it's still made well enough that you know it shouldn't break in normal use.
I would agree that as a rule of thumb, you can expect a mid-range product to work pretty well and offer some bang for the buck, but we should also place more emphasis on product selection within the price point. I don't know how long that $10 ceramic coating will last, but I don't expect it to last very long. However, a 16 oz bottle of Turtle Wax ICE Seal n' Shine will cost you $11 and is guaranteed to give you at least 6 months of protection. One bottle has enough product to use on several cars, or you can just tightly close the bottle and store it in a warm, dry place to use 6 months down the line when you reapply the product. :)
Yup. Upper end of the mid-range is usually the sweet spot. There are exceptions in both directions, but it's a good rule of thumb to hang out there or at least start there.
There is a point of diminishing returns on everything.
Also have to understand why it is high stuff to begin with. Unfortunately the high side is high (minus polisher and maybe ceramic coat) is due to marketing and not necessarily performance. Chemical guys has some gems, but they are mostly decent. Meguairs professional products (even the claybar) would have done a better job at a lower price to whatever they priced their CG and Jay Leno stuff.
As a professional... most cost of coatings is marketing!
The finish and durability are all done to the prep (polishing etc)
Soap / water honestly is fine for clay
Polish before coating
Find a good branded coating (Gyeon etc) for reasonable money
30ML will do most cars comfortably
Don't believe anything like "diamond paint pros" or any thing too good to be true... it is!
I enjoyed watching anyway irrespectively 😅❤
Thanks guys
If it's in his wheel house, a vid with Jeremiah doing a deep dive as to why the $250 coating is better would be an interesting watch.
As a professional detailer i can tell you the $10 stuff would be about as effective as spray wax but much more labour intensive to apply.
You get what you pay for. Ive done tests and the cheap stuff ive tested, because the sales rep has said its as good, didnt even last 3 months whereas the (expensive) professional brand i use lasted 6 yrs in Aussie sun without being garaged
Chemical guys try to hard with their marketing. You don't need a specific "clay luber" since "clay luber" is literally just detailing spray.
Also soapy water works better
I never was that fast on a video 😂😂
Me too 😂
Facts
Love this content. Nolan did a great job explaining the benefits of ceramic coating. I would like the maintenance to be mentioned as a coating only last if it’s being maintained. Ppf has definitely taken over the protection part of detailing.
I’ve used the plumbers putty. It works just a little messy because it so soft. I recommend putting it in the fridge for a few hours and maybe clay bar in cooler weather as it helps keep it harder.
For the few dollars difference? Clay bar saves itself just in time imo though.
@@russelljacob7955 100% theres no reason to use plumbers putty lol
@@russelljacob7955 Not if you thought you had clay bar but looked in your cabinet and there is none, and just want to get the job done already. Lesson there is same as always, assemble all materials before starting a project, including buying the clay bar in bulk to get better pricing.
One thing you guys did incorrectly was rinsing first. You have to foam first to get the dirt lubricated. Than rinse to remove most dirt. So foam, rinse, foam, hand wash than rinse and dry.
If anyone is actually curious about the longevity of several ceramic coatings, go watch Scott HD’s channel. He’s tested literally hundreds of products and it’s extremely thorough.
Also, some of the best ceramic coatings on the market are right around $100, so $250 is wild to me!
Then you gotta recognize the blue bottle. Scott definitely got amazed by it.
@@240TechGuyI was commenting on the actual products they used, just providing a plug for people who may be interested in learning about how ceramics and other products compare.
After the polish you should have divided the bonnet in 4 and applied both ceramic coatings to each side to see if they performed better or worse vs the prep work prior to application
As a detailer, One80 Details, I love this video. Yes PPF is the way to go but for a normal person/everyday car, ceramic makes sense.(especially in AZ) One of my favorite Donut videos! Cheers to the Donut squad!
What I have for my car? PPF high wear spots. So full hood and front fenders forward plus door jams, then roof.
Then ceramic coat on the whole thing.
@russelljacob7955 awesome and necessary when you care about your ride.. what is your car?
89 Civic@@stefanb18
@@stefanb18 Is a Camry TRD. A 2021 with the Ice Edge color. So it has the black with blue metallic roof. It literally went straight from show room to detailer.
Getting PPF on the roof was extremely good value. No way it would have stayed nice.
Edit: Fixed a typo. Said dealership, not detailer.
The thing about experience is it also means knowing the best product to use to get each situation done in the best way possible without harming the car, and in the least amount of time. And sometimes, that product is expensive. I’d say, to a certain extent, more experience also needs more expensive items.
The detailers seem like cool dudes. The guy with the cross earring works well in front of the camera.
That reminds me, if you have the time and money, ceramic coating any touchscreens that you use everyday is an incredible upgrade you can get for yourself. There are guides on how to do it properly, and your phone/tablet's screen will feel buttery smooth and "brand new" for years, far, far longer than the oleophobic coatings that they come with stock (including any and all screen protectors)
Just a quick tip 😅
Clay bars are more aggressive but also more likely to mar the paint.
Whereas a synthetic clay mit is considerably less likely to mar and need a polish but the catch is that it's not as aggressive.
Also you can chemically decontaminate prior to physical decon.
My 2 cents nobody asks for 😂
Important info tho
im surprised they didnt do iron removal
@@jaskajokunen3716they were supposed to do a tar and iron remover on paint
Umm, that vehicle was going to need a polish no matter which they used. If your clay bar is dragging too much, try more lube.
I tried using a $50 ceramic coat on my car before, but since I didn't have a dry place like a garage, my valiant efforts to make the car look shiny and sleek only made the effect last few weeks. Did the car wash with pressure washer, clay bar, the whole nine yards. Spent about 7 hours on a sedan. Cost of all my products was around $400.
To save time now by not spending more hours to do my truck, I made an appointment few days ago to have it done by professionals. Full detailing and cleaning followed by a two day ceramic coat application process with a 10H product. Total cost around $1100.
Always a good day when Justin is in a video 😤
Those pro detailers were cool, I'm glad y'all are giving them a cool way at maybe getting them more business. Id have them clean my car
It's refreshing to see Nolan on the Hi end of things for a change.
Okay so 2 things: 1- Justin, you've come so far! HUGE difference in the way you host these videos compared to a year ago! Kudos to you! 2- This was an excellent video. As a guy that is really into keeping my vehicules ultra clean, I gotta say this gave me a great idea of where I should pay more for my products Vs pay less and just take my time.
*Me watching without a good product or experience
I used to work for Chemical Guys and it was so cool seeing their products put to use
Anyone notice the Sterrato in the background?!
Glad they grabbed the professionals from from shop class lol 😂
Gotta get jimmy more screen time he’s funny AF.
best video you guys made in a while, you guys always had an intrest to learn more about anything car related and i loved that about you. So keep learning and sharing whatever you may stumble upon so we may all learn more about the thing we love. Cars
I guess I finally see why detailing costs so much 😂
Mad props to the pros! They were really cool while getting all of the junk product and hard work!! Cool guys!
I'm sorry, but the level of scientific inquiry is really low with these comparisons. They have been for years (with a couple of exceptions). You actually said, "The free-ish two bucket method and the $5,000 power washer system have the same results, but obviously we're giving it to the $5,000 washer." Ummm...if you're only talking about quality of the product itself....then sure. It will be the better, more expensive product every time. In that case, what are you testing? Are you suggesting I should get the $5,000 pressure washer for my home because it's cooler despite the results being negligible per your own testing?
It's just a bit frustrating since this could be a lot better with minimal effort. I mean, the whole premise of having two compounding variables doesn't really make sense either. You paired professionals with bad products and novices with good products. Neither of those scenarios typically exist in the wild. I again ask "What are you testing? What's the point of the video?" Just find a variable and test it. Get a professional to try both products and tell us what he/she thinks. Done. That would be much more useful. "I think with towels, you can go with something cheaper because....". That's more useful than "You should be a $5,000 pressure washer for your home because it makes things a bit easier."
14:45 With deeper grooves at a level 7
My Father taught me, when I was young, over 50 years ago. He told me with time, effort, and attention to detail you can overcome almost any challenge you may face in life. These wise words from a man to had to leave school in the 8th grade (14 years old) to help his family. He wasn't educated, but he was wise.
14:42
When he said deeper scratches right here,
You have no idea how badly I wanted him to say "and deeper grooves at a level 7"
Car detailers are the unsung heroes of the dealer world.. they go so under appreciated.. ❤
I plan on detailing my car today, which I have never done before... good timing!
FINALLY. You guys put this one off for a while. I always wish the cars were getting detailed
The fact that Ive been watching way too many car detailing vids to the point where it’s taken over my entire recommended feed, and then you guys just happened to drop this video now is just pleasantly funny
I love got my truck done at ceramic pro with ceramic all the way around and a PPF front for my bumper and hood and honestly it’s been worth it. When it gets dirty and has water spots you take a foam cannon to it and a pressure washer and it all comes off. For my tint and PPF was almost 3 grand but it’s been worth it. When I got into my fender bender the paint transfer from both cars that hit me came right off and you can’t even tell other than my one spot that popped off. Buy once and cry once!
Imagine a detail competition like that cook off show where people pay for challenges for the other person like; one person's water hose is replaced with a water bottle, or switching out someone's shammy for paper towels to dry their car lol
More detailing content please! Really enjoyed the comparisons between products
17:02
DAMN!!
That E30 in the back looks fireee!!
These detailers deserve the detail part of the word
Good technique, good explanations etc
Would love to see more detailing clips, nice to see as a customer what each product does with your demonstration models. Love these series!
The entire point of a foam cannon is to be able to spray it on and let the foam break down and drag dirt off without touching it. You're supposed to foam cannon, wash it off after it sits for a bit, then maybe follow it up with a bucket and mitt wash.
Foam cannons are extremely inefficient when it comes to the amount of soap used, hence you're wasting money if you use a foam cannon to spray it on just to immediately hit it with a mitt.
little story
i've mistakenly dryied my car using a microfiber towel that I used with CarPro's PERL and i got the same results as a ceramic coating for 3 weeks.
Now i just mist my wet clean car with a 1.50 ratio from a spray bottle , dry it and BAM, syrup coated again . All my previous waxes are now aging on a shelf as this is the best results I have seen so far with no visible damage to the paint.
If any one has PERL , try it on a single panel, you will be surprised.
After working in a shop with a fresh painted black 88 manual m5 with fresh bbs wheels, I feel lucky to not have to clean those wheels
My favorite product is hybrid ceramic spray wax. After a wash while the car is still wet, you spray it on and buff it in while you dry with a microfiber cloth. It doesnt last as long as legit ceramic, but it cheap and super simple to apply. Looks just as good, just need to be reapplied more often.
You guys should start a series where you test proffesionals their experience VS beginners with crazy tools. Something like this! Just the name is different. Experience VS tools
And now I’m ready for Detailing Fails on Real Mechanic Stuff channel. 😂😂
Products 100% make a difference and the Dual action polisher prevents you from burning through the clear coat..If you have a normal orbital polisher, you have to be careful to not burn through. Iron remover is also a good step bfor polishing and ceramic coat.
Yes for more Donut detailing videos
Would love to see the boys using the good stuff vs the pros using their everyday stuff. Question is how close can you get to the true professional result with the most expensive at home tools.
The animation your editors threw in with the dial rotating to each phase looks exactly like a self serve car wash dial, NICE touch!
DO THE SAME TEST WITH SAME TOOLS EXCEPT FOR THE PRODUCT !!!
Been detailing for years now and out off all the polishing/buffers ive used that rupes is by far my favorite. Pair it with the rupes compounds its a great day paint correcting 😂 i can say you dont need the most expensive stuff out there but definitely dont get the cheapest, it could cost you more in the long run.
Cool video . But too bad you didn’t like the professionals do the back throw lid with all the good stuff and combine that to the video at the end
Nolan and Justin chemistry is getting better 😁
The cool things I learned was high end cars like mercs and bmw are so nice to work on and restore. My aunt and uncle had a 95 merc and I would wash a wax it for free. Since I was young but learning on my Saturn which I got to look amazing was how different the paint was on there’re car. When you do all the steps correctly and use quality products the end results were amazing like new.
When it comes to wheels and tires it 100% is about the products. That is one category that I will always spend the money, it makes a huge difference and saves time.
This is kind of an interesting inversion on Jobe's old "DIY or Don't" formula (at least, that's what it felt like). Except I kinda like seeing the difference in amateurs using top-tier specialty gear/products vs. professionals using something your average person would pick up at the store.
OMG, your conclusion of "so no one wins today" was hilarious!! 🤣
I love the meguiars ultimate compound! Takes out swirl marks with ease.
6:45 he was hurrying up his waiting to the best of his ability 😂😂
I’d like to see them come back with the high dollar material, and bring them something you found in a field . And do a before and after
a refreshed auto detailing video? it's been so long 👏
3 different donut ads with three different sponsors and three different donuts for the ads on my first ad break ❤
Really enjoyed this! It was cool to see how well the pros did even handicapped. I occasionally watch detailing content over on Detail Geek and it's fun to see these kinds of crossovers!
Yes more detailing content. I wanna get the black on my truck to be really nice and I would love to see you guys explain how I should do it. I only trust donut content lol
that quick hell no from the detailer guy when asked if he recommends cheaper product helps a lot for me
Yes more detailing please it’s fun and enjoyable to watch you guys either fail and/or win!
Yes to all the in depth detailing content 👏 👏
Damn what we wanted! Please more Detailing stuff! I'm tired of detailg on yt
Cool vid. Some more "how to" cleaning/polishing vids would be cool. Must admit to being a little afraid of screwing the paint on our cars to use orbitals etc.