Great video. Will need to have a look on my wifes 125 whats going on with her front break and just checking because never done bikes only cars so far. To be fair im using sliding pin grease. Copper grease only on pads and fixings because its not designed for lubrication but for anti seize purpouse . Also @15:37 break fluid dripping on a fender. Apart from that the video is very much of a help. Thank you for your time Sir :)
Nice one geeza. sorted my Cbr125 pads replacement dilemma. mines got a knats whisker left. spins ok ( 2007) more or less same caliper as cbf ! Not forgetting to buy copper grease. thanks for explaining why. Every days a school day innit. Born again biker ; for 5 months now. ( CBT Done ) since passing car test at 19 ....... i'm 55 hahah. never too late. I'll give it a go . Thanks so much !
Hi Simon Your absolutely right I could have used one clamp to achieve the same job it’s just that I had 2 clamps available at the time thank you for commenting on my channel 👍
@@richardshomemechanics5566 also the rubber part is supposed to go inside the caliper slider pin hole , there is a groove inside where it fits and stays in place..16:43
The reason why the master cylinder screws can be a pain in the arse to remove is because of cretinous owners using philips screwdrivers on them, instead of JIS screwdrivers. But yes, those hex screws are more superior.
Hi Labgorilla Thank you for commenting on my video if you take your time ..grease where it needs doing your wheel should spin nice and freely please note with your new pads fitted it will rub a little bit until they bed after a few miles but after that they should be all good 🤙
@@richardshomemechanics5566 My brake lever has almost no travel to it and the wheel hardly spins. I will take it apart and remove the reservoir lid to make sure the brake fluid can come out. I think my issue is that the 2 barrels that you push back with a C clamp look to have much corrosion on them preventing them from fully retracting.
@@Labgorilla it’s sound like your right on the money there …take the calliper of and lightly squeeze the front brake so the pistons come out but just enough to be able to clean the rust ring that has been created .. clean it up with very fine wet and dry and then polish with t cut if the corrosion is to bad you may find that the piston starts to leak just take your time your be fine 😀
Richard my bike’s front brake behaves a bit sluggish (the lever). After using the front brake lever 3-4 times it behaves better. Any reason for that sloppy behaviour at first?
If you have no visible sign of a hydrolic leak then there is still air in the front brake system one thing you can do is cable tire the front brake lever to the handle bars so the front brake is on this will do 2 things it will confirm if you have a leak and also repel any air left in the system leave it line this over night last result your oil could be old and needs replacing with fresh as it’s list it’s ability to operate properly under pressure
Great video. Will need to have a look on my wifes 125 whats going on with her front break and just checking because never done bikes only cars so far. To be fair im using sliding pin grease. Copper grease only on pads and fixings because its not designed for lubrication but for anti seize purpouse . Also @15:37 break fluid dripping on a fender. Apart from that the video is very much of a help. Thank you for your time Sir :)
Hi Egon
Thank you for your comments on my video good luck with your wife’s bike 👍
This is one of the best tutorials on any subject matter on TH-cam. Thanks mate, super clear and helpful!
Hi the real Christ
Thank you for watching my TH-cam channel and for the kind comment have many hours tinkering with you spanner’s
Regards Richard
Nice one geeza. sorted my Cbr125 pads replacement dilemma. mines got a knats whisker left. spins ok ( 2007) more or less same caliper as cbf ! Not forgetting to buy copper grease. thanks for explaining why. Every days a school day innit. Born again biker ; for 5 months now. ( CBT Done ) since passing car test at 19 ....... i'm 55 hahah. never too late. I'll give it a go . Thanks so much !
sot on vid mate hope fully it will save someone some money . not copper grease tho . i like to use one g clamp and the old pad across the 2 pistons
Hi Simon
Your absolutely right I could have used one clamp to achieve the same job it’s just that I had 2 clamps available at the time thank you for commenting on my channel 👍
@@richardshomemechanics5566 also the rubber part is supposed to go inside the caliper slider pin hole , there is a groove inside where it fits and stays in place..16:43
recent got a cbf125 and this video saved tge day. thank you very much 👍💪👏
Hi Royal I pleased my video helped you X
The reason why the master cylinder screws can be a pain in the arse to remove is because of cretinous owners using philips screwdrivers on them, instead of JIS screwdrivers. But yes, those hex screws are more superior.
Well done Richard - great vid 😊
Hi Simon
Thank you for you kind comments
Richard
Wow my brakes are binding way harder than that to the wheel. Hanks for this. I think I’ll do a service this weekend.
Hi Labgorilla
Thank you for commenting on my video if you take your time ..grease where it needs doing your wheel should spin nice and freely please note with your new pads fitted it will rub a little bit until they bed after a few miles but after that they should be all good 🤙
@@richardshomemechanics5566 My brake lever has almost no travel to it and the wheel hardly spins. I will take it apart and remove the reservoir lid to make sure the brake fluid can come out. I think my issue is that the 2 barrels that you push back with a C clamp look to have much corrosion on them preventing them from fully retracting.
@@Labgorilla it’s sound like your right on the money there …take the calliper of and lightly squeeze the front brake so the pistons come out but just enough to be able to clean the rust ring that has been created .. clean it up with very fine wet and dry and then polish with t cut if the corrosion is to bad you may find that the piston starts to leak just take your time your be fine 😀
Richard my bike’s front brake behaves a bit sluggish (the lever). After using the front brake lever 3-4 times it behaves better. Any reason for that sloppy behaviour at first?
If you have no visible sign of a hydrolic leak then there is still air in the front brake system one thing you can do is cable tire the front brake lever to the handle bars so the front brake is on this will do 2 things it will confirm if you have a leak and also repel any air left in the system leave it line this over night last result your oil could be old and needs replacing with fresh as it’s list it’s ability to operate properly under pressure