silicon joint ...nooo you dont smoke it!!! good one mate!!! so im a mechanic and an owner of fazer 600 and a k4 gsxr... and of course a proud owner of the beast!!! cbf 125 2015. brakes arent its strong point... so i replaced the pump and lever assembly with one from a varadero 1000...fits right in... and a custom disc brake of 300mm... for the rear brake i just drilled a hole between the top hole and the fulcram point...and relocated the pulling axle there.... this gives extreme lever power to the foot brake.... i also replaced suspension oil with atf and put a 2cm spacers on each side inside the tube to increase the preload and the ride height. i also made custom side mounts and fit m2a1 ammo box one on each side. a 52 liter topcase with special custom made support so rear mount wont have a problem. yes im a mod freak.... its in my blood i cant help it...lol if you could ride it you wouldnt believe its handling!!!! keep it up much love from greece.
The front brake calliper mounting bolts must be torqued at 30Nm and the front brake calliper pad pin at 17Nm. You put a lot of grease which will destroy the boots in the long run . ***WATCH OUT when pushing the brake for the piston to come out ..PISTONS SHOULD NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT !!!!!!!!! Put the brake pads in the remaining space so the pistons won't come out completely. Doing this kind of job you should have a torque wrench .. don't play with your brakes, your life depends on them.
@@1bike2up Yes clean the pistons brakes work great the wheel is freeing up spinning off the ground abit better now but there is a small line around the outer rim of rotor
Copper Grease. Calling pistons "cups", sanding brake pad surfaces, spraying off sanding dust. Silicone gasket in place of a thread lock? Never use copper grease on any braking component.
Thanks for the video. I followed your instructions to change my pads today. However, the front wheel has almost no freeplay before it stops when I spin it freely. Have you got any idea why that is happening? I also had to empty a bit of brake fluid, since there was a excess dut to it having been changed not a long time ago.
Tony Bigt what I did was, give it a good rub with soapy water and a brake cleaner spray. Next I only greased the pins from that arm thing, cause I ain't got copper grease at the moment, and I used that glue thing on the bolts.Had to empty some brake fluid, cause the pistons wouldn't go in all the way.
Hi Tony, tried this to no avail :( pushed the cylinders out using the brake lever as I couldn't get them out via grips but now i cant get them back in? What am I doing wrong. Thanks
Ed Laughland use a c clamp to push them back in. Or a waterpump plier, use cloth to prevent teeth damage from pliers. if its still too hard to push them in, try opening your master cylinder cover and try again.
the brakes? you mean the pads or the pistons? for the pads etc i use brake cleaner that you should be able to get at any car&motorbike shop for the pistons etv you can use parafin or 1/2 diesel 1/2 petrol mix , just be sure any excess grease oil etc is well and truly cleaned away from the pads and disk when reasembling ;)
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silicon joint ...nooo you dont smoke it!!!
good one mate!!!
so im a mechanic and an owner of fazer 600 and a k4 gsxr...
and of course a proud owner of the beast!!! cbf 125 2015.
brakes arent its strong point...
so i replaced the pump and lever assembly with one from a varadero 1000...fits right in...
and a custom disc brake of 300mm...
for the rear brake i just drilled a hole between the top hole and the fulcram point...and relocated the pulling axle there....
this gives extreme lever power to the foot brake....
i also replaced suspension oil with atf and put a 2cm spacers on each side inside the tube to increase the preload and the ride height.
i also made custom side mounts and fit m2a1 ammo box one on each side.
a 52 liter topcase with special custom made support so rear mount wont have a problem.
yes im a mod freak....
its in my blood i cant help it...lol
if you could ride it you wouldnt believe its handling!!!!
keep it up
much love from greece.
The front brake calliper mounting bolts must be torqued at 30Nm and the front brake calliper pad pin at 17Nm. You put a lot of grease which will destroy the boots in the long run .
***WATCH OUT when pushing the brake for the piston to come out ..PISTONS SHOULD NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT !!!!!!!!! Put the brake pads in the remaining space so the pistons won't come out completely.
Doing this kind of job you should have a torque wrench .. don't play with your brakes, your life depends on them.
I followed your video did what you did and fitted new pads
Brakes work great but if I spin wheel off ground it does not spin that freely what do I do
Did you clean the pistons? New pads have more beef on them so they should "stick" slightly bit not too much.
@@1bike2up
Yes clean the pistons brakes work great the wheel is freeing up spinning off the ground abit better now but there is a small line around the outer rim of rotor
@@cbf125-tips. mark will be from previous pads etc , give it a good ride....
Tanks for you video it's very good . But I have some questions, what kind of spray do you use ? And the copper grease for what?
Big THX for it.
never understand why I get thumbs down !?!?!?
Tony Bigt where you from bro?
Copper Grease. Calling pistons "cups", sanding brake pad surfaces, spraying off sanding dust. Silicone gasket in place of a thread lock?
Never use copper grease on any braking component.
Thanks Tony! Found a bloody hole in my brake pad. And that my cylinder barrels were rusted. Have ordered new pads but can’t find replacement barrels.
WTf!!!
great video. will use it on my bike. feel free to check out my chanel
😀
I own a honda too and I love watching your videos. You make it look easy!!!
Thanks for the video. I followed your instructions to change my pads today.
However, the front wheel has almost no freeplay before it stops when I spin it freely. Have you got any idea why that is happening? I also had to empty a bit of brake fluid, since there was a excess dut to it having been changed not a long time ago.
gorylizor i does not spin freely do you mean?
gorylizor did you grease the pins etc?
Tony Bigt yup
Tony Bigt what I did was, give it a good rub with soapy water and a brake cleaner spray. Next I only greased the pins from that arm thing, cause I ain't got copper grease at the moment, and I used that glue thing on the bolts.Had to empty some brake fluid, cause the pistons wouldn't go in all the way.
gorylizor no NO SOAPY WATER
Thanks dude :) next time I'm off I'm giving this shit a proper clean! Lol
no problem 😁
Hi Tony, tried this to no avail :(
pushed the cylinders out using the brake lever as I couldn't get them out via grips but now i cant get them back in?
What am I doing wrong. Thanks
Ed Laughland
use a c clamp to push them back in. Or a waterpump plier, use cloth to prevent teeth damage from pliers.
if its still too hard to push them in, try opening your master cylinder cover and try again.
Yeah thanks bud. After a bit of digging I figured it out :-) used a good clamp instead though. Worked a dream. Thanks for the response anyhow
always the joker me!!
What do you use to clean the brakes? Any specific cleaner ?
the brakes? you mean the pads or the pistons? for the pads etc i use brake cleaner that you should be able to get at any car&motorbike shop for the pistons etv you can use parafin or 1/2 diesel 1/2 petrol mix , just be sure any excess grease oil etc is well and truly cleaned away from the pads and disk when reasembling ;)
thanks great help
thats what I like to hear 😁