3:26 A gallon of engine oil cannot possibly drain into a filter the size of a cup. It's exactly the opposite. The ADBV keeps oil from draining OUT of the filter, so that oil is immediately available to the engine from the filter upon startup.
So a longer oil filter has the benefit of not just being able to hold more gunk before getting clogged but also having more oil available to the engine at startup. That's great info to know
If the filter screws on from the bottom , like most filters do ,the oil is not going to drain out of the filter anyway, so you don't need an anti drain back valve
Not all oil filters have bypass valves. Many engines have the bypass valve built into the engine rather than the filter. Also, the anti drain back valve doesn't keep oil from draining into the filter, it keeps oil from draining out of the filter back into the oil pan when the engine is off. This is so when the engine is started, the oil pump doesn't have to fill the filter with oil before distributing oil to the rest of the engine and building pressure. Not all filters have an ADBV either. If the filter is in a vertical position it may not need one, because the oil won't drain out of it.
When Mt. StHelens blew, the ash that fell around here measured .1 micron in size. No filter made could filter that out, it was like walking through a shop door. Our only option was to change oil very often.
@@dufus2273 You do realize that 0.1 micron is 100 times smaller than 10 microns. Ten microns is just under 0.0004 inches which means 0.1 microns is under 0.000004 inches (4 millionths of an inch).
I purchased a NAPA Gold last Friday, I returned it the following day. At 8:50 you show the base plate revealing 8 holes for supply oil to go through. Now the NAPA Gold only has 4 holes and they are not larger and the by-pass valve is no longer on the threaded end.
When referring to particle sizes in regards to oil filters, it is important to realize exactly how small the particles being discussed really are. Then, we can discuss the filtration effects of the filters in question in regards to engine life. There is a misconception when it comes to oil filters, that the smaller the micron rating the better the filter. Some companies rate their filter as a “5 micron” filter, which means the filter will catch particles microns in size with at least 50% efficiency. Let’s put a 5 micron particle in perspective. 1 micron is .001mm (or .00003937 inch), so 5 micron is .005mm (.00019685 inch). The tolerances in your engine will be no than 2.5 thousandths of an inch (.0025”). So, 2.5 thousands of an inch, which is equal to a 63.5 micron particle. A 5 micron particle is smaller than a human red blood cell, and too small to see with the naked eye. So how can a particle that size cause damage to your engine? Next, let’s consider the purpose of an oil filter bypass valve. A bypass valve opens when the inlet side of the filter gets too restrictive. This can happen when the engine is cold and the viscosity of the oil is high (due to the weight of the oil), but this primarily happens when the filter media gets too restrictive or clogged. This is done to keep catastrophic engine failure from occurring; dirty oil is better than no oil. The lower the pressure relief rating, the sooner the valve allows unfiltered oil to enter your system. The last factor that contributes to the bypass opening is the amount (surface area) of the filter media used in the filter. A filter that has a high surface area is going to hold more contaminant and promote good oil flow for a longer period of time, so the bypass will take longer to open. If the filter you use is 95% efficient at 5 microns it is going to remove more contaminants than a filter that is 3% efficient at 5 microns. The question is, how long will it take for those filters to load up with contaminant and enter bypass? The answer is simple, the more efficient filter will load up sooner, but at what expense? Oil flow is necessary to lubricate rotating parts, prevent engine failure, and help keep the engine cooler, plus again dirty oil flow is better than starving the engine of oil completely (the theory behind the filter bypass). Clean oil is best for long engine life, and a filter that can promote clean oil flow consistently for a longer period of time is a key component of any healthy engine. When you are talking about filtration, whether it be oil or air, there is a balancing act that has to be performed to ensure your engine gets the protection it needs while giving your engine the most flow possible. Unfortunately, when the focus is an oil filter that is catching extremely small particles at a high percentage, the tradeoff is flow rate. This put the consumer in a “Catch-22” situation. Do you use a filter with the most efficient media at the smallest particle rating, and have the bypass open letting unfiltered oil through the system? Or do you have a filter that does not filter as small a particle size, but filters more of the oil for a longer period of time? K&N filters are designed to give you the balance of oil flow and filtration. Of course, we would like to say we have the most efficient filter at the smallest micron range, but the fact is we are not going to sacrifice oil flow or the quality of filtration by having a high efficiency filter that operates in bypass mode for 80% percent of its life. I know for me personally it’s a simple decision, the small particle filtration does not mean anything to me since we are talking about particles I can’t see, especially if there is a remote possibility of unfiltered oil touching my bearing surfaces causing premature wear and eventual engine failure. When you are comparing filters, to make the most informed decision possible, look at the following things (with the least amount of emphasis on micron rating): Filtration efficiency, Filter surface area, bypass setting. The KN-171 filter has a nominal micron rating of 25, meaning it will capture 25 micron particles with at least 50% efficiency. The filtration efficiency of the KN-171 at 5 microns is 3%. The KN-171 also has 165 sq.in. of filter area partially the reason it flows 25% better than the OE, paired with a bypass that opens at 14psi. The Harley Davidson filter 95.8% efficient at 5 micron and 98.6% at 25 micron, it also has 63 sq.in. of media and a bypass that opens at 10psi. This means the Harley filter will run in bypass mode for a significant portion of its installed life, whereas the K&N will allow oil to flow through the filter for a longer period of time. In my personal opinion, this makes the K&N filter the clear choice. Here is a side by side to the amount of media inside of a K&N filter and your typical OEM filter (I don't think it is Harley's current one but look cool)
You have not mentioned the importance of where the bypass valve is located in the oil filter element !!! If this valve is located on the reverse side of element ( *Silver and Platinum* ), then during a cold start (when the oil is thick and this valve is activated), the oil passes outside the filter element, picks up some dirt that has accumulated on outside filter surface, and again the dirty oil goes through the bypass valve !!! But, if the bypass valve is located immediately at the inlet ( *Gold* ), then the oil ( when the bypass valve is activated ) DOES NOT pass along the "dirty" side of the filter, and all the dirt accumulated on the outside of the filter element remains there forever !!! It would be nice if the filter manufacturers indicated in the specifications where the bypass valve in the filter is structurally located !!!
2 my brother ( *Joe* ) The fact of the matter is that this circumstance - completely erases the meaning of oil filtration, and each time the dirt being washed off from the external surfaces - returns to the engine.
@@Andrew__Smith I agree..I mean the ENTIRE point of a oil filter is to FILTER the oil..ALL of it! That is the main reason I buy the Gold over the supposedly better platinum one. Thank you for pointing that out to others!! Maybe they will change their design for the Platinum..if so I will use it instead.👍
I like the way the Gold is made with the bypass on the top because if the bypass opens on the one on the bottom it would suck all the dirt and metal off the bottom of the filter can and send it right to the main and rod bearings. The top bypass would not do that, but some oil would be better than no oil at all.
Thanks for the breakdown of the Napa filters, it is very informative.👍 One thing I noticed on another similar review you did is when you call the HOLES in the bottom of the filter "thicker". There is no such thing as a Thicker Hole. I am NOT trying to insult you in any way pal..it just didn't make any sense to me the first time I heard it, then I saw it repeated on this one is all. A hole is always just Bigger or Smaller in diameter..nothing more. Peace✌👍
If your filter screws straight up from the bottom, it cannot drain back. In some cars the anti-drainback valve is irrelevant. It is best to keep this in mind when you shop as I buy different filters depending on the mounting position.
I have watched several of your videos and you RARELY seem to get the purpose of the anti-drain back valve correct. It holds oil INSIDE the filter to prevent dry starts. It does NOT hold oil in the engine as you keep saying in most of your videos. Please try to be consistent in your explanations and accurate!
And the bypass valve is more for cold starts when the oil is not as viscous....as opposed to overly dirty filter media. RARELY do filters get so dirty so as to use the bypass regardless of design. In that case, unless you live in a sandstorm and don't run an air filter...it's YOUR fault.
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
been using napa gold for some years now my f-150 5.4l has 190,000 now and runs as good as when it was brand new. mobil 1 synthetic oil and napa gold filter for over 10 yrs. might switch to platinum filter.
I like you are very concerned about the quality of the oil filters I buy. Agree the engine oil is the life blood of the engine. Just a couple of bucks. Protecting thousands of dollars of engine parts. Thanks for posting!
Even though the Platinum uses a fully synthetic media, for some reason it's not as efficient as the blended media on the Gold. The platinum only filters 50% of the particles that are 20 microns and smaller, while the Gold is closer to 99% efficient at 20 microns.
Testing has shown that the paper filters are the best for filtration, the synthetic ones seem to have too tight a mesh so they become clogged faster than the paper thus letting unfiltered oil go through the by pass valve. Oh, and paper filters work fine with synthetic oils.
I run the Platinum filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil in my wife’s SUV. I pulled the valve cover off at 150K miles and was amazed at how clean everything was. No varnish anywhere. I think getting 300K miles from this combination will be no problem.
What good does a high quality anti-drainback valve do if the oil filter is mounted upside down, as it is in most engines? After the engine is shut down, gravity keeps oil in the filter, just like a coffee in a mug.
I use the cheap napa pro select filters on my fleets with Amsoil. I believe Mann makes the pro select. 300,000 to 700,000 miles on the engines. Fords toyotas and chryslers. 60 vehicles total.They all work just fine. I do 10,000 mile intervals. Wholesale $2.00 each in California.
Yeah, I'm so confused too..I wanna know also...Been using the "Orange can of Death" for all my auto life...Now, I know why most didn't last that long even though I changed oil religiously at 3 mos. or 3000 miles...And I quit using that thin assed oil by Castro too....Went to Valvoline Conventional....10W30.....
Dem F and ToyMan, the Napa Gold and Platinum are made by wix, so they are the wix filters, but napa pays them to put their branding on them, basically, they're the same in all but name.
doc hall thanks for that advice, I wish Walmart sold them in my area of Michigan. However, the whole month of June Napa was selling the Platinum for $8.99 I stocked up since my GT and my Escape uses the exact same filter.
i just bought a NAPA Gold filter or my father's Z28. I didn't even know there was a Platinum or I'd have bought that! The Gold is made by Wix; what about the Platinum?
Is it true that the NAPA GOLD has stopped having the by-pass valve on the thread end. Check the TH-cam clip titled NAPAGold Oil Filter by NAPA Filters.
The results of testing cheap, junk oil filters will tell us that they are cheap, junk oil filters. People that buy cheap junk oil filters get what they deserve. People that TEST cheap junk oil filters are wasting their time AND ours.
any of the NAPA Oil Filters are some of the Best on the market made by WIX of coarse also NAPA has their low end filter the NAPA Pro Select are pretty good filters too not as good as the ones in this video but I wouldn't be afraid to use them if I was on a tight budget and thanks for the great review of these fantastic oil filters from NAPA
Cellulose filter media will also trap moisture, synthetic will not, bad news in the winter when it freezes as this can be a problem as water freezes and expands inside the filter which can damage it.
even the fram Ultra Synthetic suck: sometime some of the filtration material is glue and the bypass valve is cheap vs napa plat. Napa gold is better than mobil 1 so..
Glad to see the latest edition to the series back today. Have you examined the Premium Guard Extended Life oil filter? I just ordered this filter from Amazon based on Scotty Kilmer's recommendation. The brand is called Premium Guard.
This has been said in other spots, but NAPA Gold and Platinum are manufactured by Mann Hammel (formerly WIX). It is proudly made in the USA (Gastonia, NC)
So if the filter is good until 10k or 15k miles, could I use normal synthetic motor oil for the same interval? Or would I have to use something like Mobil 1 extended performance. My cars drain interval is 10k.
The platinum is less restrictive...larger micron...so it can last longer without plugging.less efficient...but they're expecting 6k-8k oil changes with that..
Is the wire mesh a premium add on to make the filter better, or because the media is more apt to blow out? I can say there is a significant difference and that synthetic media maybe better filter. Sure like to see a media test for quality and quantity of filtration. I use NAPA / WIX filters and think they are good.
I always use Napa Gold on my bike as well. No issues, ever. Meanwhile, race organizations all over the country are outright banning K&N oil filters because so many riders have crashed due to oil leaks on track. If you have a K&N oil filter on your bike they will not let you on track.... and those things are expensive!
If you haven't done one yet how about oil filters sold by the auto manufacturers like Motorcraft (Ford), GM and Mopar (Chrysler). By the way thanks for the excellent videos.
Just bought 4 platinums for $27. Good sale going on now just wish the cans were white, it’s always annoying trying to find my silver sharpie to write the mileage and date on the filter.
So is the gold filter really any better, looks like the same filter media and the silver has more of it....? Have I been waisting my money on the gold filter?
I have a 95 Honda Del sol... someone told me Napa Gold is a good oil filter for that car. Ok, so if I use Napa Gold and use Synthetic oil, how long can I go before oil change? With conventional oil I usually change around 3,000 miles.
it's a honda theres no such thing as extended drain, full synthetic every 5000 miles or ull destroy the VVT, timing chain slide and rings. you can't allow the viscosity to degrade in hondas it's very bad for them, anything with VVT is that way..and that year came with conventional just stick with what your doing its the proper way. you "can" switch to synthetic but if its high miles its gunna leak oil bad because the seals have age, they will swell because of the additives and then shrink to half the size its something you wana do when the car is newer, when they have age it cleans them out too good and stuff starts going wrong, ring bores get smoothed out, start burning oil, all kinds of fun stuff. if its under 100k you can switch but never go back to conventional
@@MikeKollin sounds like you got it under control i wouldn't worry about seafoam in the crankcase as long as you keep the oil changed everything will be kosher, although they could use it on the intake side because of the fuel injection, i dunno if that's direct injection or throttle body, the intake manifold and valves get dirty pretty bad and all oiled up/carbon buildup from the pcv valve with direct injection, throttle body they stay nice and clean because the fuel runs through them i'm not familiar with that year motor tho. i did my civic at 100k and it smoked for 45 mins so my intake and head was so dirty alot of the valve tap went away and i got alot of power back, if you seafoam it do it at 2000 miles then change the oil early, i like life left in the oil when i do it then change it out when i'm done, it carbons the shit out of the oil
@@boogerfromthatmovie4257 Ok, cool. I'll do seafood in the crank case like you said, 2,000 miles. And then do it through the Throttle body, with spray can... I figure the gas tank I just did Techron bottle there so I'll wait 2 months or so before doing it through the fuel / gas... Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. I really wanted to do the SeaFoam Thing. It's not a GDI. The fuel goes over the valves into the chamber / pistons. Cool.. Awesome!!
@@MikeKollin yea that was the best system because it kept the intake and valves clean mine however is direct injected and after awhile i can hear the valves get louder because the seats get dirty, you probly don't have that problem. you can clean out the throttle body by hand with a rag and tb cleaner and be done with it everything else is already clean from tb forward i slack on changing my pcv too witch doesn't help the problem its a cheap little part that causes all kinds of problems, i have close to 250k on mine too its all stock never rebuilt
@@boogerfromthatmovie4257 Yeah I am just now learning about cars and my engine. And luckily my engine and car is super easy to work on. So I just learned about GDI Engines and fortunately mine is not a GDI so the Gas that flows over valves keeps it lean as long as I buy clean / quality gas, et... and yes, I just spray TB spray onto rag and wipe it out. I just did that 3 days ago and yes, it helped out the idle and smooth things out. Deep inside I can see some junk. So I am going to use SeaFoam Spray to clean that out... I am watching a ton of youtube video's and learning fast. Kind of an addiction / hobby now! I have a mechanic who let's me use his tools and shop. If I do it all by myself it's free. And he answers questions if I can't figure it out. If he works on it, he basically gives me a great price like more than 50% off. If he does the job alone it;'s just his standard price. So it's been fun.
All NAPA filters are made by WIX. WIX was sold by Affina Group to Mann + Hummel in 2016. I Worked at Oreilly Auto Parts for nearly 5 years and dealt with NAPA on several occasions and learned early on that NAPA and Oreilly both shared selling the same filter, just one was labeled NAPA. Also, PRO-TEC filters were made by WIX.
Honestly the filters should be twice their size. They will clean out the sand. 5 micron will reduce the flow of oil and starve the engine unless there is alot more media for the oil to pass. Car manufacturers don't want their cars to last forever or they will go broke. Reality. They all suck. Chemical formulator here. Cleaning a fluid at high volumes needs a larger volume of filter media to reduce the restriction as much as possible. I've used 1 micron filters in rare occasions and the flow is greatly reduced. The filters are a whole lot bigger than the tiny oil filters on our cars. Get the smallest micron filter and change it often. Some people change their oil and skip the filter every second time. That is the opposite of what you should do. A synthetic oil should last a lot longer than a conventional oil but you have to keep it clean. Go big if it fits and change regularly. The oil is doing its job. It's the dirt in it that's killing your engine.
The Wix/Napa filters have a very soft bypass spring rate... I'm sure they meet spec, but it must be at the bottom of the spec. All other filters I've looked at have stiffer bypass valve spring. Aside from that the XP & Platinum are pretty good. I've settled in on running the Amsoil or RP filters only for the superior media, wire backing, and higher bypass spring rate. On a side note... I do like the XP for my lawnmower as I like the lower bypass rate for that application. ... Sorry to be a "hater", but Wix needs to change that spring & people need to know.
I'm new to your channel and enjoy it. I not sure if you had talked about the aftermarket oil filter for the powerstroke 6.0. It has cost 6.0 owners alot of money in injector replacement!
I'd love to see the same comparison of the filters used by valvoline and Castrol quick change oil shops.. Would love to șee them compared then against these
I agree. Growing up I never went beyond 3 months or 3k miles. However, newer vehicles can often go 12k/1yr without changing the oil. (Under normal circumstances.) This K&N filter went 18k miles...th-cam.com/video/qW7K0CZvgVQ/w-d-xo.html
Douglas B. VW runs 10k service intervals. Even the techs said you can run to 15k with out issues. On my 7.3 Ford you can run 7500-10k if you run synthetic. As long as you use quality oil you’ll be fine.
Oil & Filtration has come a long, long way since the days of 3k mile oils changes. No reason to change perfectly good oil. It's costly and will not extend the life of you vehicle. It's common now to see 6k+ change recommendations from most manufacturers. I have run 10k + changes and have had the oil tested by a laboratory. Perfectly fine. In fact, with modern synthetics and newer vehicles, it's possible to go even longer.
My funny experience at NAPA Auto Parts: I went in to see about NAPA Oil Filters (I heard they were one of the best). I noticed a NAPA Gold Oil Filter and a NAPA Platinum Oil Filter. So, I take both to the desk and asked the two guys, "What's the difference between the Gold and Platinum Oil Filters?" And, one of the guys (no joke) said in a condescending voice, "Uhh...one is Gold and the other is Platinum." And, I was thinking, "NO S#@T!?!" except, I replied with "Well, yeah. But, what's the difference between them?" He said, "I guess the Platinum one is better at cleaning the oil." Well, I could tell the guy was full of "it," so I just put the Platinum Filter back and decided to try out the NAPA Gold Oil Filter, and I'll try the Platinum one next time. However, as I'm about to pay almost $10 for this Oil Filter, the other employee there said, "The Platinum is for Synthetic Oils; and the Gold Filter is for Conventional Oils." He must have Googled that right then and there (or something), because he didn't say anything when I asked about the differences earlier. I just made the purchase and went home. By the way: The NAPA Gold Oil Filter is not bad; but, that idiot at the store makes me laugh every time I think about it.
Unfortunately, this video is no longer true. At this time NAPA & Carquest filters were manufactured by Wix, primarily in the USA. In May 2016 Mann-Hummel purchased Affinia group which included Wix Filtration. The Silver Line was replaced by NAPA Pro Select. The Platinum Line is being discontinued, The Gold Filter for my Honda Ridgelines are now made in Vietnam, and it does not have the bypass filter or spring with a closed filtration unit like this video shows. The first generation 2006 Ridgeline with 310K+ miles is running the Vietnam made NAPA Gold filter. A made in the USA, Honda filter went on my second generation 2022 Ridgeline a couple weeks ago. Dealership says the Japanese made filters are better. When I replace the filters should I cut them apart and show them on to you?
The build quality looks very good, just the way I like it I use the K&N gold oil filter for my car and it runs very good with it Also can you do a comparison between the USA and the Mexico version of the K&N oil filter?
@@CarsNToys thanks, also why does some K&N Gold oil filter has a sheet medal bypass valve instead of a real spring and vise versa or is it because of the design/model number for certain Vehicles?
The biggest point overlooked he did not mention on the drain back rubber seal......is Is. Which way your car filter sits on your engine..my trucks. Chevy 350. Ford 4.0 ohc sits on the bottom of the engine looking up so a silicon drain back valve or any valve for the matter is not needed. Gravity fills up the filter when the oil pump...engine... is shut off. If you got a upside down filter then a silicon valve is better. ....but it’s overkill if you change filter every three months. Rubber seal is fine...Which is crazy. But. Hell you got money. Want peace of mind. Go for it... spend the 12 bucks ...1960s v w bugs had no filter. Metal window screen. No shit..your talking chucks of metal passed thru that engine. And they went 100 k no problem...most filters good for 10 k. Probable good for 20 k more import tant which side of the filter the drain Back valve is on so it doesn’t pass dirty oil in freezing freezing cold winter states. climates..pass at bottom lets dirty oil Thur the filter...I believe it’s bottom. Dont remember..Don’t care. I live in fla. @. Drain valve on top oil doesn’t pas thru the filter by pass. ..I think...just trying to say you money I’m 70 and changed mine ex wife kids oil 50 years Walmart syn and 3 dollars filter 5 6 k oil change all trucks got 200 plus fla..no rust..no engined ever failed..more importantly check ..oil that’s another story
You can't use the term "rubber" indiscriminately. Technically, rubber is natural rubber which has no resistance to petroleum. Synthetic elastomers have selective hydrocarbon resistances and have to be identified by type to determine chemical and thermal resistances. Also, the elastomer's fillers play an important part in physical and wear properties. Most high performance elastomers are black as this is an indicator of carbon black filler which can be a high quality filler. These "black rubber" gaskets could be flurorelastomers or Nitrile which have high resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and more than adequate temp resistance for automotive applications. Actually, silicone can have inferior physical properties than the proper black elastomers. So the filter mfg should state the specific elastomer used in their product
This is what I use. Yes, it's not cheap. But, you really do get what you pay for here. Napa always seems to sell a better value behind it's name. Now is it the best filters? Probaly not. But it's not a cheap paper fram.
"Why would you pay more money for synthetic?" Why would you even say that? Think about it there is one brand of oil that is only 30¢ a quart difference between conventional and synthetic. Then there's the point of manufactures often recommend 0W-20 which is not available as a conventional oil. So my question to you is why wouldn't you use synthetic? And whether you change it at 5k or 10k makes no difference with the oil you use (if it's synthetic and not rated as severe use) but it does make a difference with what filter you use. You could use the less expensive filter and change the filter every 5k with the oil. Or you could step up to a 10k interval and change the oil and filter at 10 k. Really it's all personal choice. There's no rule that you have to change both the oil and the filter at the same time either.
Any suggestions on my 630hp 13-1cr small block chevy that never sees any temps above 170? I do drive it on the weekends but never too far at 4 to 5mpg and drag race a few times a year. Its an 8000rpm solid roller motor and i run 5w 20 royal purple full synthetic in and have fairly high oil pressure(40psi at 1200rpm idle in gear and cruises at 70-80psi max). Ive been running k&n for years. Is there anything better? Also i do use race fuel. Hoping for any advice.
Matt Baughman I actually have my engine in pieces right now. Just freshening things up over the winter. Piston rings, bearings, valve springs etc. Everything looks great inside. Gonna stick with k&n for now. They've gotten me this far. And i have to have absolute trust in a product with a $12,000 motor. I'd say k&n is definitely a winner
The gold filter looks like an excellent filter. Thanks for the video!!
3:26 A gallon of engine oil cannot possibly drain into a filter the size of a cup. It's exactly the opposite. The ADBV keeps oil from draining OUT of the filter, so that oil is immediately available to the engine from the filter upon startup.
Thank you. I made a mistake there. Good catch on your end!
CarsNToys
No worries. I had to research it myself recently because I kept hearing it both ways on TH-cam.
So a longer oil filter has the benefit of not just being able to hold more gunk before getting clogged but also having more oil available to the engine at startup. That's great info to know
If the filter screws on from the bottom , like most filters do ,the oil is not going to drain out of the filter anyway, so you don't need an anti drain back valve
The gold has the superior bypass valve as it don’t send the oil it’s bypassing over the dirty side of the filter
Not all oil filters have bypass valves. Many engines have the bypass valve built into the engine rather than the filter. Also, the anti drain back valve doesn't keep oil from draining into the filter, it keeps oil from draining out of the filter back into the oil pan when the engine is off. This is so when the engine is started, the oil pump doesn't have to fill the filter with oil before distributing oil to the rest of the engine and building pressure. Not all filters have an ADBV either. If the filter is in a vertical position it may not need one, because the oil won't drain out of it.
Are you positive?
@@arifleming9701 positive.
@@Harlow_Khmer HIV positive?
@@arifleming9701 🤣🤣🤣
svtirefire What are you talking about? Are you watch this video, buddy? Please see this video again!!!
This video what EXACTLY what I needed, I washed 10 mins scrolling around avoiding you, but I am glad I clicked on this! Thank you!
Napa full synthetic oil, and a platinum filter for 21.98 right now. Makes the platinum filter 5 dollars.
When Mt. StHelens blew, the ash that fell around here measured .1 micron in size. No filter made could filter that out, it was like walking through a shop door. Our only option was to change oil very often.
Don Thursby
That was an incredible event. How close were you?
how did you measure I micron?
dufus - With a micrometer....lol
@@dufus2273
You do realize that 0.1 micron is 100 times smaller than 10 microns. Ten microns is just under 0.0004 inches which means 0.1 microns is under 0.000004 inches (4 millionths of an inch).
I remember that day. The sky was hazy for several days after that here in Indiana! Nature is amazing.
I purchased a NAPA Gold last Friday, I returned it the following day. At 8:50 you show the base plate revealing 8 holes for supply oil to go through. Now the NAPA Gold only has 4 holes and they are not larger and the by-pass valve is no longer on the threaded end.
My newest and favorite filter after dumping on the orange can of death. No more Fram for me. Perfect video. TY!!!
Enjoy!
THE NEW FRAM ULTRA,, AND ENDURANCE,, ARE TOP OF THE LINE. TESTED PROVEN
When referring to particle sizes in regards to oil filters, it is important to realize exactly how small the particles being discussed really are. Then, we can discuss the filtration effects of the filters in question in regards to engine life. There is a misconception when it comes to oil filters, that the smaller the micron rating the better the filter. Some companies rate their filter as a “5 micron” filter, which means the filter will catch particles microns in size with at least 50% efficiency. Let’s put a 5 micron particle in perspective. 1 micron is .001mm (or .00003937 inch), so 5 micron is .005mm (.00019685 inch). The tolerances in your engine will be no than 2.5 thousandths of an inch (.0025”). So, 2.5 thousands of an inch, which is equal to a 63.5 micron particle. A 5 micron particle is smaller than a human red blood cell, and too small to see with the naked eye. So how can a particle that size cause damage to your engine?
Next, let’s consider the purpose of an oil filter bypass valve. A bypass valve opens when the inlet side of the filter gets too restrictive. This can happen when the engine is cold and the viscosity of the oil is high (due to the weight of the oil), but this primarily happens when the filter media gets too restrictive or clogged. This is done to keep catastrophic engine failure from occurring; dirty oil is better than no oil. The lower the pressure relief rating, the sooner the valve allows unfiltered oil to enter your system. The last factor that contributes to the bypass opening is the amount (surface area) of the filter media used in the filter. A filter that has a high surface area is going to hold more contaminant and promote good oil flow for a longer period of time, so the bypass will take longer to open.
If the filter you use is 95% efficient at 5 microns it is going to remove more contaminants than a filter that is 3% efficient at 5 microns. The question is, how long will it take for those filters to load up with contaminant and enter bypass? The answer is simple, the more efficient filter will load up sooner, but at what expense? Oil flow is necessary to lubricate rotating parts, prevent engine failure, and help keep the engine cooler, plus again dirty oil flow is better than starving the engine of oil completely (the theory behind the filter bypass). Clean oil is best for long engine life, and a filter that can promote clean oil flow consistently for a longer period of time is a key component of any healthy engine.
When you are talking about filtration, whether it be oil or air, there is a balancing act that has to be performed to ensure your engine gets the protection it needs while giving your engine the most flow possible. Unfortunately, when the focus is an oil filter that is catching extremely small particles at a high percentage, the tradeoff is flow rate. This put the consumer in a “Catch-22” situation. Do you use a filter with the most efficient media at the smallest particle rating, and have the bypass open letting unfiltered oil through the system? Or do you have a filter that does not filter as small a particle size, but filters more of the oil for a longer period of time? K&N filters are designed to give you the balance of oil flow and filtration. Of course, we would like to say we have the most efficient filter at the smallest micron range, but the fact is we are not going to sacrifice oil flow or the quality of filtration by having a high efficiency filter that operates in bypass mode for 80% percent of its life. I know for me personally it’s a simple decision, the small particle filtration does not mean anything to me since we are talking about particles I can’t see, especially if there is a remote possibility of unfiltered oil touching my bearing surfaces causing premature wear and eventual engine failure.
When you are comparing filters, to make the most informed decision possible, look at the following things (with the least amount of emphasis on micron rating): Filtration efficiency, Filter surface area, bypass setting.
The KN-171 filter has a nominal micron rating of 25, meaning it will capture 25 micron particles with at least 50% efficiency. The filtration efficiency of the KN-171 at 5 microns is 3%. The KN-171 also has 165 sq.in. of filter area partially the reason it flows 25% better than the OE, paired with a bypass that opens at 14psi. The Harley Davidson filter 95.8% efficient at 5 micron and 98.6% at 25 micron, it also has 63 sq.in. of media and a bypass that opens at 10psi. This means the Harley filter will run in bypass mode for a significant portion of its installed life, whereas the K&N will allow oil to flow through the filter for a longer period of time. In my personal opinion, this makes the K&N filter the clear choice.
Here is a side by side to the amount of media inside of a K&N filter and your typical OEM filter (I don't think it is Harley's current one but look cool)
You
have not mentioned the importance of where the bypass valve is
located in the oil filter element !!! If this valve is located on the
reverse side of element ( *Silver and Platinum* ), then during a cold start (when the oil is
thick and this valve is activated), the oil passes outside the filter
element, picks up some dirt that has accumulated on outside filter
surface, and again the dirty oil goes through the bypass valve !!!
But, if the bypass valve is located immediately at the inlet ( *Gold* ), then
the oil ( when the bypass valve is activated ) DOES NOT pass along
the "dirty" side of the filter, and all the dirt
accumulated on the outside of the filter element remains there
forever !!!
It would be
nice if the filter manufacturers indicated in the specifications
where the bypass valve in the filter is structurally located !!!
Thank you, Dr. Doom!
You are welcome!
2 my brother ( *Joe* ) The fact of the matter is that this circumstance - completely erases the meaning of oil filtration, and each time the dirt being washed off from the external surfaces - returns to the engine.
@@Andrew__Smith I agree..I mean the ENTIRE point of a oil filter is to FILTER the oil..ALL of it!
That is the main reason I buy the Gold over the supposedly better platinum one.
Thank you for pointing that out to others!! Maybe they will change their design for the Platinum..if so I will use it instead.👍
Its not avoiding the contaminants however it could be slightly better because they are both dealing with similar issues.
I like the way the Gold is made with the bypass on the top because if the bypass opens on the one on the bottom it would suck all the dirt and metal off the bottom of the filter can and send it right to the main and rod bearings. The top bypass would not do that, but some oil would be better than no oil at all.
I like the Gold as well.
Thanks for the breakdown of the Napa filters, it is very informative.👍
One thing I noticed on another similar review you did is when you call the HOLES in the bottom of the filter "thicker". There is no such thing as a Thicker Hole.
I am NOT trying to insult you in any way pal..it just didn't make any sense to me the first time I heard it, then I saw it repeated on this one is all. A hole is always just Bigger or Smaller in diameter..nothing more.
Peace✌👍
His English and grammar is lacking😮😮 . Forgive him!
anti drainback valve is to keep the oil from draining back into the engine so you dont get a dry start not to keep the oil in the pan lol
yea, I caught that also when he said it.
If your filter screws straight up from the bottom, it cannot drain back. In some cars the anti-drainback valve is irrelevant. It is best to keep this in mind when you shop as I buy different filters depending on the mounting position.
Mindblown how you dont have any likes or responses to your comment.
Because you are 100% corrext
I have watched several of your videos and you RARELY seem to get the purpose of the anti-drain back valve correct. It holds oil INSIDE the filter to prevent dry starts. It does NOT hold oil in the engine as you keep saying in most of your videos. Please try to be consistent in your explanations and accurate!
And the bypass valve is more for cold starts when the oil is not as viscous....as opposed to overly dirty filter media. RARELY do filters get so dirty so as to use the bypass regardless of design. In that case, unless you live in a sandstorm and don't run an air filter...it's YOUR fault.
@@TakeDeadAim you are correct
Not necessarily dry starts as the engine will still start dry however it will make it faster. Close enough no disrespect sir.
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Lian Ian instablaster :)
been using napa gold for some years now my f-150 5.4l has 190,000 now and runs as good as when it was brand new. mobil 1 synthetic oil and napa gold filter for over 10 yrs. might switch to platinum filter.
I like you are very concerned about the quality of the oil filters I buy. Agree the engine oil is the life blood of the engine. Just a couple of bucks. Protecting thousands of dollars of engine parts. Thanks for posting!
Thanks and thumb up. I went to Napa and specifically asked for Wix, and was sold a Napa Gold filter, so I guess it was made by Wix?
If I remember correctly it's the same filter. Cheers.
napa does not sell a racing filter made by wix. wix #51515R. not sold at napa.
All four lines of NAPA filters are made by Wix.
Even though the Platinum uses a fully synthetic media, for some reason it's not as efficient as the blended media on the Gold. The platinum only filters 50% of the particles that are 20 microns and smaller, while the Gold is closer to 99% efficient at 20 microns.
Anon Ymous The info is all over if you look for it. He’s correct. Quit spitting stupidity without doing your research first.
In this regard Wix is equivalent to the Gold and Wix XP is the same as the Platinum. Aren't they made by the same company?
I have a flat tappet cam which needs zinc in the oil. I always wondered how much zinc is trapped in the filter and how much it hurts the camshaft?
none...use additive or diesel oil for your flat tappet cams
Testing has shown that the paper filters are the best for filtration, the synthetic ones seem to have too tight a mesh so they become clogged faster than the paper thus letting unfiltered oil go through the by pass valve. Oh, and paper filters work fine with synthetic oils.
I just bought the Platinum filter for 5.99. You won't find a filter of that quality at that price very often!
I run the Platinum filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil in my wife’s SUV. I pulled the valve cover off at 150K miles and was amazed at how clean everything was. No varnish anywhere. I think getting 300K miles from this combination will be no problem.
What good does a high quality anti-drainback valve do if the oil filter is mounted upside down, as it is in most engines? After the engine is shut down, gravity keeps oil in the filter, just like a coffee in a mug.
none, thats why they arent necessary in every application
I use the cheap napa pro select filters on my fleets with Amsoil. I believe Mann makes the pro select. 300,000 to 700,000 miles on the engines. Fords toyotas and chryslers. 60 vehicles total.They all work just fine. I do 10,000 mile intervals. Wholesale $2.00 each in California.
Thanks, interesting....I use NAPA GOLD( shorter OCI) and ROYAL Purple.
Napa gold and platinum are made by WIX. So obviously the platinum is the Xp.
Glad to know
Yeah, I'm so confused too..I wanna know also...Been using the "Orange can of Death" for all my auto life...Now, I know why most didn't last that long even though I changed oil religiously at 3 mos. or 3000 miles...And I quit using that thin assed oil by Castro too....Went to Valvoline Conventional....10W30.....
Dem F and ToyMan, the Napa Gold and Platinum are made by wix, so they are the wix filters, but napa pays them to put their branding on them, basically, they're the same in all but name.
Dem F Napa synthetic oil is made by valvoline. Just so ya know.
doc hall thanks for that advice, I wish Walmart sold them in my area of Michigan. However, the whole month of June Napa was selling the Platinum for $8.99 I stocked up since my GT and my Escape uses the exact same filter.
A very well crafted video - excellent! (subscribed).
Thank you, Sir. Cheers.
i just bought a NAPA Gold filter or my father's Z28. I didn't even know there was a Platinum or I'd have bought that! The Gold is made by Wix; what about the Platinum?
all are
@@torkrench Guy at NAPA told me "platinum is for synthetic oil only."
Is it true that the NAPA GOLD has stopped having the by-pass valve on the thread end. Check the TH-cam clip titled NAPAGold Oil Filter by NAPA Filters.
I work at napa and they also have a value line of filters called pro select. Would be nice to see it compared as well. Thanks
Bob Keller
Damn Bob cut a couple open, fb me when you do!
Gary Winters hi stranger. Lol
The results of testing cheap, junk oil filters will tell us that they are cheap, junk oil filters.
People that buy cheap junk oil filters get what they deserve.
People that TEST cheap junk oil filters are wasting their time AND ours.
any of the NAPA Oil Filters are some of the Best on the market made by WIX of coarse also NAPA has their low end filter the NAPA Pro Select are pretty good filters too not as good as the ones in this video but I wouldn't be afraid to use them if I was on a tight budget and thanks for the great review of these fantastic oil filters from NAPA
Walter I buy the pro select in bulk $1.97 each. Great filter.
fantastic deal!!!
10:08-Add the width of the media remaining in the filter to the removed width.
Not that complicated.
Platinum on sale rt now for $7.99 for month of april
To measure the surface of the media, you should measure the width before cutting it open, then once open you only have the measure the length.
All made by WIX. I buy the pro select Napa which you don’t have represented here. All are very good
Jon Smith pro select line of filters replaced the silver line of both oil and air filters at Napa.
Works at Napa poway
Darin-James Lizardo I buy the multi pack oil filters for $1.97 each.
Silver is still available
Great review on the filters!
Awesome info ...thanks !
Cellulose filter media will also trap moisture, synthetic will not, bad news in the winter when it freezes as this can be a problem as water freezes and expands inside the filter which can damage it.
How does the valve on the gold work?
It's either a coil spring or a stamped piece of steel. After that you said every manufacturer is different. So there are only two manufactures? Hello!
So HELPFUL!
Will all three flow as well as a Honda filter?
Thanks for this very educational video!
Glad to help.
Between Fram Ultra Synthetic, Napa Platinum and Mobil1 which should I go with?
even the fram Ultra Synthetic suck: sometime some of the filtration material is glue and the bypass valve is cheap vs napa plat. Napa gold is better than mobil 1 so..
supertech
Which of these have coil pressure springs ? Thank you.
You delivered the goods. Thank you sir! #GreatReview
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
1
Glad to see the latest edition to the series back today. Have you examined the Premium Guard Extended Life oil filter? I just ordered this filter from Amazon based on Scotty Kilmer's recommendation. The brand is called Premium Guard.
This has been said in other spots, but NAPA Gold and Platinum are manufactured by Mann Hammel (formerly WIX). It is proudly made in the USA (Gastonia, NC)
I've been hearing they're made in China or Mexico now?
Not to my knowledge. Picked up a platinum today and it says usa. I am not sure about the silver. Gold I know still is.
They’re made in multiple places, including China
So if the filter is good until 10k or 15k miles, could I use normal synthetic motor oil for the same interval? Or would I have to use something like Mobil 1 extended performance. My cars drain interval is 10k.
If your vehicle is under warranty then you need to follow warranty requirements aka manufacture's scheduled maintenance.
Good video. Thank you.
Appreciate the feedback.
you can measure thickness with a dial caliper. I picked mine up for $15 off amazon.
The gold filter isn't avoiding the contaminants as you may think. It may be better but not completely different.
Excellent review. Thank you.
Glad to help.
The platinum is less restrictive...larger micron...so it can last longer without plugging.less efficient...but they're expecting 6k-8k oil changes with that..
Is the wire mesh a premium add on to make the filter better, or because the media is more apt to blow out? I can say there is a significant difference and that synthetic media maybe better filter. Sure like to see a media test for quality and quantity of filtration. I use NAPA / WIX filters and think they are good.
The wire mesh keeps the media together,it really only matters in long OCIs .Paper tends not to hold up well when its been soaked for so long.
Excellent review. I use Napa gold.
There is alot of weekend mechanics in here.
Till mom takes the car back 😭
And quite a few pretenders, too !
I like these videos very much.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
I use the Napa Gold or Mobile 1 on my motorcycle. I stick to the blend oil recommended.
I always use Napa Gold on my bike as well. No issues, ever. Meanwhile, race organizations all over the country are outright banning K&N oil filters because so many riders have crashed due to oil leaks on track. If you have a K&N oil filter on your bike they will not let you on track.... and those things are expensive!
thanks super informative 👏👏👍🏽
Good Stuff Great Tips😄👍🏿
Can the silver be used for synthetic oil.
Sure!
Hey Carsntoys, what filter make and model/oil do you use on YOUR cars?
Less filter surface area would mean the oil would not filter through as fast...correct? Does that not make a difference?
In your opion nappa or puralator?
Napa platinum filtration paper looks like Amsoil filtration paper. Are they the same?
Are Wix and Napa the same
If you haven't done one yet how about oil filters sold by the auto manufacturers like Motorcraft (Ford), GM and Mopar (Chrysler). By the way thanks for the excellent videos.
Thank you. I've done Motorcraft, Mopar, Nissan, Toyota (Denso)...more coming:
th-cam.com/play/PLl6xt4Pyay3DmQ3gR7g16KEcKck-9q-a-.html
Just bought 4 platinums for $27. Good sale going on now just wish the cans were white, it’s always annoying trying to find my silver sharpie to write the mileage and date on the filter.
So is the gold filter really any better, looks like the same filter media and the silver has more of it....? Have I been waisting my money on the gold filter?
Depends on how often you're changing the oil. For example, if you're changing the oil every three months/3k miles the Silver filter is fine.
I have a 95 Honda Del sol... someone told me Napa Gold is a good oil filter for that car. Ok, so if I use Napa Gold and use Synthetic oil, how long can I go before oil change? With conventional oil I usually change around 3,000 miles.
it's a honda theres no such thing as extended drain, full synthetic every 5000 miles or ull destroy the VVT, timing chain slide and rings. you can't allow the viscosity to degrade in hondas it's very bad for them, anything with VVT is that way..and that year came with conventional just stick with what your doing its the proper way. you "can" switch to synthetic but if its high miles its gunna leak oil bad because the seals have age, they will swell because of the additives and then shrink to half the size its something you wana do when the car is newer, when they have age it cleans them out too good and stuff starts going wrong, ring bores get smoothed out, start burning oil, all kinds of fun stuff. if its under 100k you can switch but never go back to conventional
@@MikeKollin sounds like you got it under control i wouldn't worry about seafoam in the crankcase as long as you keep the oil changed everything will be kosher, although they could use it on the intake side because of the fuel injection, i dunno if that's direct injection or throttle body, the intake manifold and valves get dirty pretty bad and all oiled up/carbon buildup from the pcv valve with direct injection, throttle body they stay nice and clean because the fuel runs through them i'm not familiar with that year motor tho. i did my civic at 100k and it smoked for 45 mins so my intake and head was so dirty alot of the valve tap went away and i got alot of power back, if you seafoam it do it at 2000 miles then change the oil early, i like life left in the oil when i do it then change it out when i'm done, it carbons the shit out of the oil
@@boogerfromthatmovie4257 Ok, cool. I'll do seafood in the crank case like you said, 2,000 miles. And then do it through the Throttle body, with spray can... I figure the gas tank I just did Techron bottle there so I'll wait 2 months or so before doing it through the fuel / gas... Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. I really wanted to do the SeaFoam Thing. It's not a GDI. The fuel goes over the valves into the chamber / pistons. Cool.. Awesome!!
@@MikeKollin yea that was the best system because it kept the intake and valves clean mine however is direct injected and after awhile i can hear the valves get louder because the seats get dirty, you probly don't have that problem. you can clean out the throttle body by hand with a rag and tb cleaner and be done with it everything else is already clean from tb forward i slack on changing my pcv too witch doesn't help the problem its a cheap little part that causes all kinds of problems, i have close to 250k on mine too its all stock never rebuilt
@@boogerfromthatmovie4257 Yeah I am just now learning about cars and my engine. And luckily my engine and car is super easy to work on. So I just learned about GDI Engines and fortunately mine is not a GDI so the Gas that flows over valves keeps it lean as long as I buy clean / quality gas, et... and yes, I just spray TB spray onto rag and wipe it out. I just did that 3 days ago and yes, it helped out the idle and smooth things out. Deep inside I can see some junk. So I am going to use SeaFoam Spray to clean that out... I am watching a ton of youtube video's and learning fast. Kind of an addiction / hobby now! I have a mechanic who let's me use his tools and shop. If I do it all by myself it's free. And he answers questions if I can't figure it out. If he works on it, he basically gives me a great price like more than 50% off. If he does the job alone it;'s just his standard price. So it's been fun.
Even the 'cheap' Silver looks better than many competitive models that cost more.
All NAPA filters are made by WIX. WIX was sold by Affina Group to Mann + Hummel in 2016. I Worked at Oreilly Auto Parts for nearly 5 years and dealt with NAPA on several occasions and learned early on that NAPA and Oreilly both shared selling the same filter, just one was labeled NAPA. Also, PRO-TEC filters were made by WIX.
Honestly the filters should be twice their size. They will clean out the sand. 5 micron will reduce the flow of oil and starve the engine unless there is alot more media for the oil to pass. Car manufacturers don't want their cars to last forever or they will go broke. Reality. They all suck. Chemical formulator here. Cleaning a fluid at high volumes needs a larger volume of filter media to reduce the restriction as much as possible. I've used 1 micron filters in rare occasions and the flow is greatly reduced. The filters are a whole lot bigger than the tiny oil filters on our cars. Get the smallest micron filter and change it often. Some people change their oil and skip the filter every second time. That is the opposite of what you should do. A synthetic oil should last a lot longer than a conventional oil but you have to keep it clean. Go big if it fits and change regularly. The oil is doing its job. It's the dirt in it that's killing your engine.
Can you cut open a Napa proselect fulter
I am not sure if u have ...about TRD oil filter possible PTR 43 00080..thanks
Cool vid would have been good to have the same part number filter across the board some are made differently according to MFG specs
Bravo good video - Do I have to cut open the filter to install it and how much ram memory the filter has . I drive a Tesla lol
Recently drove the Model 3. Very fun car.Enjoy!
Love to see oil filters comparison for Diesel engine oil filters
The Wix/Napa filters have a very soft bypass spring rate... I'm sure they meet spec, but it must be at the bottom of the spec. All other filters I've looked at have stiffer bypass valve spring. Aside from that the XP & Platinum are pretty good. I've settled in on running the Amsoil or RP filters only for the superior media, wire backing, and higher bypass spring rate.
On a side note... I do like the XP for my lawnmower as I like the lower bypass rate for that application.
... Sorry to be a "hater", but Wix needs to change that spring & people need to know.
I'm new to your channel and enjoy it. I not sure if you had talked about the aftermarket oil filter for the powerstroke 6.0. It has cost 6.0 owners alot of money in injector replacement!
Bummer. Thanks for the heads up.
Can you do the black can K&n oil filter?
I'd love to see the same comparison of the filters used by valvoline and Castrol quick change oil shops.. Would love to șee them compared then against these
K22jjjl37qeq3h71jypypppl
Why would anyone go 10,000 miles or more without changing the oil? Makes no sense to me...
I agree. Growing up I never went beyond 3 months or 3k miles. However, newer vehicles can often go 12k/1yr without changing the oil. (Under normal circumstances.) This K&N filter went 18k miles...th-cam.com/video/qW7K0CZvgVQ/w-d-xo.html
Douglas B. VW runs 10k service intervals. Even the techs said you can run to 15k with out issues. On my 7.3 Ford you can run 7500-10k if you run synthetic. As long as you use quality oil you’ll be fine.
Oil & Filtration has come a long, long way since the days of 3k mile oils changes. No reason to change perfectly good oil. It's costly and will not extend the life of you vehicle. It's common now to see 6k+ change recommendations from most manufacturers. I have run 10k + changes and have had the oil tested by a laboratory. Perfectly fine. In fact, with modern synthetics and newer vehicles, it's possible to go even longer.
My funny experience at NAPA Auto Parts: I went in to see about NAPA Oil Filters (I heard they were one of the best). I noticed a NAPA Gold Oil Filter and a NAPA Platinum Oil Filter. So, I take both to the desk and asked the two guys, "What's the difference between the Gold and Platinum Oil Filters?" And, one of the guys (no joke) said in a condescending voice, "Uhh...one is Gold and the other is Platinum." And, I was thinking, "NO S#@T!?!" except, I replied with "Well, yeah. But, what's the difference between them?" He said, "I guess the Platinum one is better at cleaning the oil." Well, I could tell the guy was full of "it," so I just put the Platinum Filter back and decided to try out the NAPA Gold Oil Filter, and I'll try the Platinum one next time. However, as I'm about to pay almost $10 for this Oil Filter, the other employee there said, "The Platinum is for Synthetic Oils; and the Gold Filter is for Conventional Oils." He must have Googled that right then and there (or something), because he didn't say anything when I asked about the differences earlier. I just made the purchase and went home. By the way: The NAPA Gold Oil Filter is not bad; but, that idiot at the store makes me laugh every time I think about it.
You should measure the with of the media before cutting it, see at 10:02.
Appreciate the feedback. thank you.
Why are people so anil about who makes it? Is the final product good?
Jim Dailey we just wanna know
Why sweat a couple of bucks 2 or 3 times a year? Just get the better filter.
Have you opened up a Hastings oil filter yet?
Not yet. I have Champion and STP Max this week. Will look in to Hastings.
Unfortunately, this video is no longer true. At this time NAPA & Carquest filters were manufactured by Wix, primarily in the USA. In May 2016 Mann-Hummel purchased Affinia group which included Wix Filtration. The Silver Line was replaced by NAPA Pro Select. The Platinum Line is being discontinued, The Gold Filter for my Honda Ridgelines are now made in Vietnam, and it does not have the bypass filter or spring with a closed filtration unit like this video shows. The first generation 2006 Ridgeline with 310K+ miles is running the Vietnam made NAPA Gold filter. A made in the USA, Honda filter went on my second generation 2022 Ridgeline a couple weeks ago. Dealership says the Japanese made filters are better. When I replace the filters should I cut them apart and show them on to you?
The build quality looks very good, just the way I like it
I use the K&N gold oil filter for my car and it runs very good with it
Also can you do a comparison between the USA and the Mexico version of the K&N oil filter?
Sure. I recently opened a K&N filter made for motorcycles and that's made in Thailand. Good quality: ttps://th-cam.com/video/LtcvzlD2ugI/w-d-xo.html
@@CarsNToys thanks, also why does some K&N Gold oil filter has a sheet medal bypass valve instead of a real spring and vise versa or is it because of the design/model number for certain Vehicles?
That was a great video go napa
Thank you.
Thanks for the review.
Glad to help.
The biggest point overlooked he did not mention on the drain back rubber seal......is Is. Which way your car filter sits on your engine..my trucks. Chevy 350. Ford 4.0 ohc sits on the bottom of the engine looking up so a silicon drain back valve or any valve for the matter is not needed. Gravity fills up the filter when the oil pump...engine... is shut off. If you got a upside down filter then a silicon valve is better. ....but it’s overkill if you change filter every three months. Rubber seal is fine...Which is crazy. But. Hell you got money. Want peace of mind. Go for it... spend the 12 bucks ...1960s v w bugs had no filter. Metal window screen. No shit..your talking chucks of metal passed thru that engine. And they went 100 k no problem...most filters good for 10 k. Probable good for 20 k more import tant which side of the filter the drain Back valve is on so it doesn’t pass dirty oil in freezing freezing cold winter states. climates..pass at bottom lets dirty oil Thur the filter...I believe it’s bottom. Dont remember..Don’t care. I live in fla. @. Drain valve on top oil doesn’t pas thru the filter by pass. ..I think...just trying to say you money I’m 70 and changed mine ex wife kids oil 50 years Walmart syn and 3 dollars filter 5 6 k oil change all trucks got 200 plus fla..no rust..no engined ever failed..more importantly check ..oil that’s another story
You can't use the term "rubber" indiscriminately. Technically, rubber is natural rubber which has no resistance to petroleum. Synthetic elastomers have selective hydrocarbon resistances and have to be identified by type to determine chemical and thermal resistances. Also, the elastomer's fillers play an important part in physical and wear properties. Most high performance elastomers are black as this is an indicator of carbon black filler which can be a high quality filler. These "black rubber" gaskets could be flurorelastomers or Nitrile which have high resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and more than adequate temp resistance for automotive applications.
Actually, silicone can have inferior physical properties than the proper black elastomers.
So the filter mfg should state the specific elastomer used in their product
Thank you. Nitrile rubber.
This is what I use. Yes, it's not cheap. But, you really do get what you pay for here. Napa always seems to sell a better value behind it's name. Now is it the best filters? Probaly not. But it's not a cheap paper fram.
Pear CD 655
The Platinum is a 21 micron rating and the gold has the same micron rating and the silver also has a 21 micron
Ford racing filter are really heavy thick metal
I'll be getting one soon. Really nice design.
"Why would you pay more money for synthetic?"
Why would you even say that? Think about it there is one brand of oil that is only 30¢ a quart difference between conventional and synthetic.
Then there's the point of manufactures often recommend 0W-20 which is not available as a conventional oil. So my question to you is why wouldn't you use synthetic? And whether you change it at 5k or 10k makes no difference with the oil you use (if it's synthetic and not rated as severe use) but it does make a difference with what filter you use. You could use the less expensive filter and change the filter every 5k with the oil. Or you could step up to a 10k interval and change the oil and filter at 10 k. Really it's all personal choice. There's no rule that you have to change both the oil and the filter at the same time either.
Granted this comment is 4 years after the video was made....according to Napa Prolink each of these filter have the same micron rating @ 21 microns.
Any suggestions on my 630hp 13-1cr small block chevy that never sees any temps above 170? I do drive it on the weekends but never too far at 4 to 5mpg and drag race a few times a year. Its an 8000rpm solid roller motor and i run 5w 20 royal purple full synthetic in and have fairly high oil pressure(40psi at 1200rpm idle in gear and cruises at 70-80psi max). Ive been running k&n for years. Is there anything better? Also i do use race fuel. Hoping for any advice.
Recoil Junkie1981 , stick with the KN
Matt Baughman I actually have my engine in pieces right now. Just freshening things up over the winter. Piston rings, bearings, valve springs etc. Everything looks great inside. Gonna stick with k&n for now. They've gotten me this far. And i have to have absolute trust in a product with a $12,000 motor. I'd say k&n is definitely a winner