(IMPORTANT UPDATE) I was distracted when adding the resistor and installed it incorrectly. Follow these 2 pics to fix it! Picture 1) i.imgur.com/iYxlvGG.jpg?1 Picture 2) i.imgur.com/k2bf42k.jpg?1
What's especially awesome about you is that you never ONCE talked down on the OSSC or the RetroTink. You rock dude, thank you for this! I'm gonna try this build out
@@Cain532. retro tink 2x for $149 looks pretty nice right about now. plus you can have them add the RGB multi out cable for n64 and snes. Back in stock.
I love that neon ossc case. Also just wanted to say thanks! I've done so much of my own modding and just improved my soldering skills overall from watching your videos and practicing. It's been very satisfying.
Thank you so much for this Tutorial. I followed it , and it really was easy to do. I am really impressed with the quality of the picture for the price! I own a RT 2x pro , but I really prefer the ability to adjust so many different aspects, and save them as presets! I personally didn't go the Component video path. But i tested it with my Wii via component cable to see that it was working (going RGB - SCART on mine, so thanks for showing the pre-requisite for that as well) . And I have never seen the Wii with such a sharp image on a LCD TV before. Also huge thanks for you to point out all the caveats potentially waiting if components are installed in a certain (wrong) way.
Why not just remove the originals and use a slightly higher value for the new capacitor, rather than stacking them up? Seems like it would be neater, and less fiddly to install.
@@A7mag3ddon Its amazing how many people have said to just remove the caps and replace them with correct ones and yet no one says which are the correct caps. Not even Voultar.
Oh My god. Just when im about to purchase all of the parts needed for this scaler and start working on it you produce this amazing step by step video, you are amazing dude. Thank you
Hey Voultar, I followed your guide step by step with your updates and when I plugged it in to my power supply it started smoking so I unplugged it real quick. I was kinda sketched out by the clock board power location so I moved it to C48, which was much easier to solder to, and now it works like a charm.
for those of you following along at home, I'm fairly certain Voultar got ground and power confused at around 38:00 (he connects the black wire to voltage and white to ground, not the other way around); wire it up like he says because he still connected it properly, but just a note for those checking continuity like I was
Finished the soldering for ESP8266, clock generator and the C11 cap mod yesterday. Also finished a SCART-to-RGBS-and-Cinch adapter so I can feed the signal from my PAL PS2 via Retrogaming RGB cable into the GBS-C (audio directly to OSSC). GBS-C goes to OSSC via SVGA cable. Testing today was just WOW. The picture quality is so much better compared to OSSC only. Motion Adaptive Deinterlacing was so worth the effort. I am awaiting some SMD caps and 100 Ohm resistor today, maybe there is still room for even more improvement. Thanks @Voultar for this really good optimized mod video.
Refined my GBS-C last week. I added a FOINNEX VGA2HDMI adapter (leaving the OSSC out of the chain) and chose to feed 5V from the GBS board‘s DC input to pin 9 of the VGA out. Modded the FOINNEX adapter to work with the voltage provided from VGA pin 9 so I can leave USB Power unconnected (less cabling). In case I happen to forget what I did there, I added a diode (harvested from the USB power input side of an old RPi2 donor board) to prevent voltage from Ieaking back to the power adapter of the GBS. I don‘t know why, but picture quality seems to have improved even further compared to the GBS-C -> OSSC chain. Either my OSSC (Bitfunx) is garbage or my TV set (very old Samsung LCD, around 2005 or 2006) doesn‘t like the OSSC very much. I never have been as satisfied with picture quality before as I am now. In my case OSSC only and GBS-C -> OSSC have far inferior picture quality compared to GBS-C -> FOINNEX VGA2HDMI.
Thank you so much! I never wanted to buy an OSSC because for me, the out of sync delay when changing the resolution is a deal-breaker. Since I already have a GBS around... This video made me REALLY happy.
Been eyeing scalers for a while, and I just can't afford a retrotink, so I bought the GBS and components last week. I've been putting off soldering it together as I just don't have confidence in my soldering skills even after watching some other videos. I'm going to practice on some scrap boards for a bit, but this is the one I'll watch again before finally getting it done. Really appreciate the commentary you add throughout, especially explaining your reasonings for the choices you make for placement and wiring. I've learnt a lot just watching this, and you've made it feel achieveable even for a beginning like me. Cheers from the uk 👍
Great video! The web menu is really an underrated feature of this. No hot keys or obscure icons to remember, its all fleshed out so nicely. And its accessible from a smartphone, so nice!
I made one of these back in November of last year and it's output/features is pretty amazing for the cost. I put in about $50 total for all the parts and pieces and I am very happy. And when I still need to hook up a composite or svideo console for streaming/recording, i still have my Tink2x. Rama did a great job with the documentation for building/software (much rarer than it should be) and xps3riments did a wonderful job updating the UI as well a while back.
I've always been interested in upscalers ever since i got into retro gaming, I've seen and heard it all before but none of it was ever remotely in my price range, but you REALLY caught my attention when you said the price. comparing the footage, its astonishing that it's just under $50.
An alternative install method is reverse mounting a PLCC socket. All the connections for the ESP8266 are available on the chip you'd usually connect the one debug wire to. This also makes it plug-n-play so if for example you're testing multiple units or you upgrade to a model with an HDMI adapter built-in you'd just transplant your socketed ESP to the other board.
From your video description: Also, I swapped the wire colors for the power and ground connections (white and black) for the clock-gen. Simply wire them oppositely to the clockgen board as I did! Sorry guys! I dont quite understand what you did wrong and what I have to do differently. Cheers!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I bought the parts once the video came out, but only had time to assemble it last week. I tried it today, and it's great. Thank you for posting such informative videos for us that are just learning how to build and mod game systems. Now I can't wait to see what I can accomplish next. :)
I'm sure someone has written it before, but congrats on the way you talk to your viewership. Great way to motivate someone to do this. Welcoming, motivational, patient. Good job. PS: I've gotten some parts, but the clock generator is out of stock in Euroland Amazon... Oh well, I'll add it later.
Good video. The 3D printed bracket made me want to get a case with a top and bottom. You know, just to make it a little harder to bump things around on the inside where all the work was done. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Voultar! I just finished mine recently. I do have to say though, I had to watch a section of RetroRGB's video on this because I followed your instructions on how to flash the program onto the ESP8266 WIFI development board and it kept causing an error. I ended up using the LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 and mini board and it worked.
Voultar, could you please add a link to the SMD Resistor and the Capacitors, please? I've looked and I'm just not sure which to get. I can solder it, but, I can't find where to buy it. And even some of that braided conductor you used (wow, its just braided wire, my bad, rofl), if you don't mind. The shopping list doesn't have these.
I literally can't thank you enough I love how you simplified things I have been having issues with my wifi module not working right im going to start from scratch and follow your build. You my friend are a master.
As someone who has built 2 of them and love the gbs-c, just remember gbs-8200/gbs-8220 like many cheap Chinese goods don't always have the best quality control. First unit had major white balance issues (Lot of blues in it) and the board straight up died after a few weeks (using recommended triad power supply). Second one is fantastic on the other hand.
It’s amazing! it could be a little more pro with a little screen and buttons to change settings on the device instead of use a computer, but it is still an amazing device 👏 great work!
"This chip is sensitive to interference" *glues a signal generator to it* Uhhhhhh. Hey Voultar I get that 2.4GHz and 8MHz is different, but gods this feels insane.
It's working! It's working!! Thank you so much for this video! Initially I had forgotten to wire SDA to D2 and could not figure out what was wrong. But now I fixed it and it's working like a dream!
I probably lack the manual expertise to do this thing, and I already have an Xrgb-mini and a Retrotink-5x, but it's nice having alternatives. Not only because it's a way cheaper one, but also because the upscaling solutions may complement each other and be useful in different situations.
The quality of the ADC for HDMI makes a big difference with a GBS-C setup, many of them have bad colors or other issues. If you need HDMI, it turns out that the OSSC is what currently will give you the best results, but of course you're then adding +$120 to the cost :P Something else worth noting is that the default 1280x960 output mode will give you a better picture with less noise than 1080p, at the cost of filling up less of your screen. Oh and one more thing: you don't need to do the SCART stuff if you feed RGBS via the D-Sub ("VGA") input connector. Those with SCART setups can just use a SCART to D-Sub15 patch cable (maybe in some cases a sync stripper may also be required?). Edit: actually removing the pots will be something you want to do if you'll be using RGBS inputs, SCART or not.
@@cygnusx1495 there are very cheap scart female connectors, and a 3d printable GBS Control shell you can print to fit it all perfectly. I'll get a few photos of mine later, it's an awesome project, dirt cheap, and one of the only good adaptive de-interlacing devices currently available
I'm not trying to be negative or anything but at around 38:00 you misspoke. The side facing outwards from the IC is ground and that terminates to the pad on clk2 (which is ground), and the side coming out of the IC is positive and goes to the filtering cap on the board. I was slightly confused when watching this since I intended to use C47 or C48 to source power in ground since it's in a less congested area (rama actually uses these on the GBS wiki). Just commenting in case anyone else was confused the same way I was.
This felt like I was in a Kindergarten Electronics class. I say that with all love, there was no stress during the entire project, and everything was explained extremely well. Lord Voultar you are the man I don't care what Bob says about you.
Voultar - I followed your guide 100% Thank you - but please read: Your video is actually correct for the power/gnd of the clock gen. I actually followed your instructions of doing the opposite in the description, which turned out to be wrong! I put it back to how it is in the video and all is well.
Extremely helpful, and I absolutely adore your tutorial style - I'm still a beginner at soldering, but I managed to create a GBS-Control with your tutorial! Tried it on my PS2 and the video looks brilliant!
I've used these boards for years on arcade games, this is pretty impressive to get better results from them. They aren't bad boards, but built for low price, and every few the main chip will run crazy hot.
hi was hoping if you could enlighten me on what you said just in case it ends up affecting me/others: do you mean the one with the heatsink on it gets hot, or the other un-heatsinked big chip by the wifi-firmware mod? i have a thermal camera if you know the expected celciuses, but it needs to charge (and I haven't done the mod yet); also, do you know if the heatsink's epoxied or thermal pad/paste? would plugging a noctua 40mm fan into the 5v fix the overheating problem, and/or does the mod inherantly bypass the cause of the overheating (or is it from bad solderballs, cracked silicon die, dirty power, etx.? )?; lastly what was the latest manufacturing date it happened for you cause afaik boards are still being printed (mine says 2022 07 at least, inb4 scrape&re-print to fake it look new lol) sorry for the wall of text btw and thanks in advance for any info you can pass along. never occured to me that I should probably dry-run the card BEFORE modding it just to check it isn't DOA, I'm usually more ontop of that...
Nicely done! The only thing I would have done different is the kapton tape on the bottom of the clock board. It is easier to just paint the bottom of the board with nail polish. Nail polish is easier to find and can be used as a solder mask on custom made home cut boards so it is a great insulator.
i thought nail polish was confirmed as being an inherantly bad option and it's just best to get a can of conformal coating for not much more dosh? afaik it's not only cause of cleaning it off during later repairs is a pain/potentially caustic, nor it's easy to unkowingly gimp thermal emission on pins/VIAs to danger levels from too thick of a layer, but even clear NAIL POLISH is just designed completely wrong for this use case as it's an organic resin meant for temporarilly decorating impactable living bone (keratin), *NOT* for permanently boxing copper/glue/plastics/epoxy/fibreglass/etc that, during application, *may* react with the solvents in the NAIL PAINT that keep it goopy to apply as a liquid as the solvents evapourate (same with model car clear varnishes, which some can even eat away the solder mask as it sets, so when you clean it off/it degrages off you may have live bare exposed power traces, yum!)... a proper spray can of acrylic/silicone conformal coating won't cost much in the long run, won't crack/chip, can be soldered through (i.e. no acetone bath like removing polish; just flux) and with a nozzle/straw switch can be quite controllable, WITHOUT running the risk of organic acids/salts forming from the resins & plasticisers breaking down or impacting thermals OR non-spec solvents melting away your board and components, *whilst being a guaranteed non-electrically conductive, waterproof, fire retardant that glows in UV light* ..... yeah, don't pizza when you wanna french fry. get yourself some ambersil or mg, dawg.
I know the GBS Control has its limitations with 1080p and its aspect ratio, but after remembering all the parts used for the original GBS-82XX boards (and the HDMI variants with SCART and component inputs) and even seeing custom boards like the Mcbazel ODV variant (which is still able to be updatable with the software from Rama), but I've thought of an idea that could work with all GBS control boards including the Mcbazel ODV variant I have (call me crazy if you will): "having an Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 to not only override the current chipset of the GBS-82XX series boards' limitations, but to also enhance the picture quality to also fix the aspect ratio switching for all resolutions, and even use the MKR Vidor 4000 to work in conjunction with the GBSC to 4K60 or 4K30, and to also work as a small FPGA decoder for composite video to work with composite video and S-Video via the green component port or with a SCART adapter." I know it sounds silly and crazy, but to me it sounds like a good idea. And according to one Arduino forum about the MKR Vidor 4000, it's actually possible to store an input of 1080p60 to the SDRAM, so IF the FPGA on the MKR Vidor 4000 could override the current ASIC (which I am assuming is the one surface mounted chip with the heatsink on top) by finding the right pins for soldering some jumper wires to fix aspect ratio issues and hardware limitations (kinda similar how Tim Worthington's NESRGB kit or the NES Lava RGB kit which I did just find out about can override the original NES hardware's picture limitations to output RGB) so having someone else to program the MKR Vidor 4000 could actually work in conjunction with the GBSC Project with the right solder points regardless if using the original GBS-82XX boards or the HDMI variants, or custom-made ones like my Mcbazel ODV one which has a built in clock generator.
In all sincerity... this was possibly the most pleasant educational video I have ever watched. STOP SAYING "SORRY" Every shot was clear and well documented... completely unnecessary to say sorry! Great job!!! On the other hand, if you ever get over confident the pleasantness might dissipate. Keep up the great work!!!
Shocked about the hot glue. Especially on a heat sink. I don't know how hot that gets, but seems like it could compromise the glue, and also make the heat sink much less effective, both from the glue, and covering the heat sink, reducing airflow over the fins. Wish you would have talked more about that. That said, awesome video. Thank you!
I love how you comment everything like the viewer does it and you compliment the viewer. But basically you compliment yourself. 😂 😊 Fun to watch and I think I learned something 👍
Thanks Voultar I'm going to be ordering all the parts for this tonight and giving it a go 👌👌 I just got the hyper neogeo 64 and this should clean up the 480i perfect
Not worth it really. Can't sell it for more than $75-80 because you're getting into OSSC territory at much more. Is $30-ish profit per board worth the effort? Not to me. This really is just for the DIY crowd.
@@schweatty Not doing what is done in the video, and then selling it. Redoing the PCB and manufacture it from the start with the right components etc. It shouldn’t be much more expensive to make, and should maintain the normal profit margins of the original manufacturer.
The original caps are 100nF, so just replacing them with 10uFs is approximately the same as putting the 10uFs in parallel, only cleaner, especially if you get 0603s.
So I built this and it seems to be working great except for one minor issue. Unless you have the HDRetrovision Yprpb cables (which good luck buying them, they are sold out everywhere and scalpers are charging $80 or more) then it cannot accept the standard RCA ouput from a NES, SNES or N64 (the yellow and red connections on the back of the NES) by default. You could try some convaluted adapter chain like going from RCA to VGA, etc. But by the time you did all that, you might as well of bought the Retrotink in the first place.
Your videos have been quite helpful, I finished a NESRGB mod the other day! I'll just say that it was my first attempt so some things may or may not have gone wrong... but it's all a learning experience!
I just did a v5.1 over the weekend. There are less pins where the MCU is to be soldered in place. As it just so happens I was using a D1 Mini where D2 and GND still lined up fine with SDA and GND on the GBS.
Hey, Voultar - another great video! I'm ordering parts for this project now and I have a clarification question about the ceramic capacitor recommendation you made in the video. You say, "Anything above 10 volts is perfectly fine." To be clear, does that mean it really should be above 10 volts for some reason? Or would that include 10 volts as being "perfectly fine", but you recommend more because of some reason? I ask because I'm having trouble finding 10uf ceramic capacitors from brands I recognize with values above 10 volts on Ebay. I'll order from wherever, that was just the first place I checked because I need some other stuff from Ebay, as well. Thanks for the great content! Still hoping you bring back the "Legend of the Douche" or "Bad Modwork Repair" series of videos, by the way. Aside from the hilarious commentary, they truly serve as a great example to noobs like myself of what not to do and why, as well as how to fix mistakes. Cheers!
@14:40 everyone neglects to mention that you may need to install the CP210x Windows driver (available from Silicon Labs) before the device can properly be recognized and assigned a COM port.
Hi you from Brasil !! This is the best GBS8200 video i've seen here !! Would you sell the kit (clock board and the other Microcontroller programmed) to brasil (i mean, open an exception...)? I have (and using) GBS8200 in my MSX with RGBS and not so happy with the quality (just pretty decent). Here is very hard to obtain or buy electronic components (if no expensive!!). Thanx 4 all !!
Always love watching your work. One thing I was hoping you would do for the USB power connector was to remove the pins from the 5V connector and just crimp some terminals using the original USB cable, and then just shove the terminals back into the connector.
about the vga-hdmi converter vga socket has a dedicated pin for 5v so suplying 5v on that dedicated pin of the vga output socket and then wiring it internaly in that converter you can avoid any external cable and the vga socket would still be vga standard compliant if you remove the conector plus no dangly bits. most of the vga cables carry 5v to the other side and some of the on cable converters can be directly powered by vga cable or be modyfied to be like my mini vga2hdmi is
@@micbanand technically pin no 9 on the vga vesa capable output pin 9 is also over current protected if implemented corectly because some devices use older vga pinout (without digital data ) where pin 9 is either disconected or connected to ground in theory it suposed to work like this, 5v on pin 9 and clock on pin 15 are send to monitor and it return plug and play information over pins 11 nad or 12 clock , data 1 and data 0 are compatybile with any monitor, meaning if you bridge those pins from vga to hdmi monitor info pins in that converter shown on video, it will work corectly in windows 10 identyfying resolutions suported by hdmi monitor and passing them back to vga output so windows 10 will know what to send back. i had problems with one of those converters making my laptop only showing 360p resolution when connected to my monitor, but internally wiring pins 9, 11,12 and 15 to hdmi coresponding pins gave me all my monitor avalable resolutions to chose from,some of them gave black screen because converter didn't like them but most of them worked fine up to 1080p
@@micbanand one more thing, i was using this on any crazy converter i build in the past (mostly in early 2000's) and it worked for my constructions every time for example i made a vga to composite converter out of one conexant chip found on some voodoo 1 cards (probably the only one with analog setup pins), it worked with any computer that could produce composite synch on vga connector, other wise garbled image, but it always could take 5v to power itself from graphic card in my pc's and laptops we testet it with with my friend
For weeks I couldn’t figure out why my board would go black after starting up. Video would show up perfect and then the GBS would go black. Long story short I forgot to remove that one stupid C11 capacitor. Jesus. Thanks for this video bro.
Just stumbled on this channel recently and I love all the content you are putting out! I'm an electronics enthusiast and I enjoy fixing random devices (cell phones, TVs, etc). Lots of great rework techniques here not just applicable for retro gaming. I'm curious, what is your go-to supplier for parts, Mouser, Digikey, other?
Now this was a fantastic video to watch. I'm yet to get an upscaler and this would definitely be enough for my needs. I just need to think if my soldering skills are up to the job.
Why not take the surface mount capacitors off the board and replace with a new capacitor for the desired total capacitance? Instead of this 'stacking' method (which looks tougher to me than just replacing?)
Because, Voultar is trying to stay as close to the original instructions provided by RAMA who created this mod. RAMA clearly says to stack the "SMD capacitors in parallel to stock ones"
I already own a rt2x and OSSC but still want to build one of these just for the natively supported VGA out. Been trying to get HDMI to VGA adapters to cooperate with a certain CRT computer monitor I had with no luck and this looks like the best way to go about hooking my Super Famicom to it finally.
Hey boss! Maybe do a disclaimer that sometimes ardildo can't find your ESP8266 , and you best bet is to get the drivers and install them. My ardildo was dead set on poking the COM3 port, but after drivers, it upgraded to porking COM5.
I thought this looked fairly straight forward and bought all the parts to do to build this. wow it's tiny. I don't think I can be that precise with the soldering. I expect it will be in the E-waste in a week or two...
It's interesting he stated that he divorced scart because no one makes quality scart cables. I thought resurrection industries and RGC UK make good cables?
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
(IMPORTANT UPDATE)
I was distracted when adding the resistor and installed it incorrectly. Follow these 2 pics to fix it!
Picture 1) i.imgur.com/iYxlvGG.jpg?1
Picture 2) i.imgur.com/k2bf42k.jpg?1
Also a suggestion,
simply a suggestion, your videos are the best
I love your videos.
Why stack caps when you can just replace with the correct rated caps. Is it just you had them laying around and didn't want to order?
So the top one Is incorrect and it's the bottom one with the exposed trace?
My wife heard me watching this from upstairs and asked, "what the heck are you listening to? it sounds religious." I said yes.
Christ! of Latter Day Saints, I love Voultar!
P R E A C H ! ! !
Church, Tabernacle :-)
LMAO 🤣
It kinda did sound religious until he said, “Ardildo”.
"Watch the resolution change" gets hit with a commercial
It happened to me too, what a coincidence!
Yup me too lol.
Ooh!... Baby Dove, followed by Cap n' Crunch!
But was the resolution different?
The god damn Bob Ross of retro gaming.
True, but he's going to have to get that hair permed for full effect.
Rofl, this made me laugh out loud
also called the bob ross of soldering
I usually smoking some happy trees while watching his videos
for real i come too and it was like 41.00 mins in
"Does Retro RGB suck?" video liked
Does he really hate retro rgb or is it an inside joke?
@@jjhh4096 he's joking lol
I literally clicked the like button while I choked on my food when he said that. Damn near (literally) killed me.
That was like 5 milsec and you got it, lol
What's especially awesome about you is that you never ONCE talked down on the OSSC or the RetroTink. You rock dude, thank you for this! I'm gonna try this build out
did you try it?
@@Grant-H2O not yet, sorry 😞
@@Cain532. retro tink 2x for $149 looks pretty nice right about now. plus you can have them add the RGB multi out cable for n64 and snes. Back in stock.
@@Grant-H2O I'm saving up for the 5x pro
@@Cain532. Nice!
I love that neon ossc case. Also just wanted to say thanks! I've done so much of my own modding and just improved my soldering skills overall from watching your videos and practicing. It's been very satisfying.
I made three of them, one for me, one for my oldest daughter, and one to donate to some random psx enthusiast.
They work amazingly well. Great stuff!
Thank you so much for this Tutorial. I followed it , and it really was easy to do. I am really impressed with the quality of the picture for the price! I own a RT 2x pro , but I really prefer the ability to adjust so many different aspects, and save them as presets! I personally didn't go the Component video path. But i tested it with my Wii via component cable to see that it was working (going RGB - SCART on mine, so thanks for showing the pre-requisite for that as well) . And I have never seen the Wii with such a sharp image on a LCD TV before. Also huge thanks for you to point out all the caveats potentially waiting if components are installed in a certain (wrong) way.
Finally, someone made a tutorial on how to add those 0805 capacitors. This was super helpful thank you.
Yeah, I spent so much time running around forums finding actual descent pics. to replicate it.
Why not just remove the originals and use a slightly higher value for the new capacitor, rather than stacking them up? Seems like it would be neater, and less fiddly to install.
@@axi0matic Yeah, that janky hack was unnecessary. Removing those SMD caps are super easy, just order higher values and replace them.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 what values would that be?
@@A7mag3ddon Its amazing how many people have said to just remove the caps and replace them with correct ones and yet no one says which are the correct caps. Not even Voultar.
Oh My god. Just when im about to purchase all of the parts needed for this scaler and start working on it you produce this amazing step by step video, you are amazing dude. Thank you
Hey Voultar, I followed your guide step by step with your updates and when I plugged it in to my power supply it started smoking so I unplugged it real quick.
I was kinda sketched out by the clock board power location so I moved it to C48, which was much easier to solder to, and now it works like a charm.
What kind of power supply do you need for this? what type of 5V Plug?
Besides having an OSSC I also made 2 GBS-Cs because I always find a use for them.
Aren't they awesome for the cost of making them?! They're truly an unsung and relatively unknown hero in our community!
I didn't even know this was a thing. I'm going to make one even just to have as a backup. And for funzies
for those of you following along at home, I'm fairly certain Voultar got ground and power confused at around 38:00 (he connects the black wire to voltage and white to ground, not the other way around); wire it up like he says because he still connected it properly, but just a note for those checking continuity like I was
I missed it and wired it the wrong way.
LED turned on after I fixed it, I'm sure it's fine.
Finished the soldering for ESP8266, clock generator and the C11 cap mod yesterday. Also finished a SCART-to-RGBS-and-Cinch adapter so I can feed the signal from my PAL PS2 via Retrogaming RGB cable into the GBS-C (audio directly to OSSC). GBS-C goes to OSSC via SVGA cable.
Testing today was just WOW. The picture quality is so much better compared to OSSC only. Motion Adaptive Deinterlacing was so worth the effort. I am awaiting some SMD caps and 100 Ohm resistor today, maybe there is still room for even more improvement.
Thanks @Voultar for this really good optimized mod video.
Refined my GBS-C last week. I added a FOINNEX VGA2HDMI adapter (leaving the OSSC out of the chain) and chose to feed 5V from the GBS board‘s DC input to pin 9 of the VGA out.
Modded the FOINNEX adapter to work with the voltage provided from VGA pin 9 so I can leave USB Power unconnected (less cabling). In case I happen to forget what I did there, I added a diode (harvested from the USB power input side of an old RPi2 donor board) to prevent voltage from Ieaking back to the power adapter of the GBS.
I don‘t know why, but picture quality seems to have improved even further compared to the GBS-C -> OSSC chain. Either my OSSC (Bitfunx) is garbage or my TV set (very old Samsung LCD, around 2005 or 2006) doesn‘t like the OSSC very much. I never have been as satisfied with picture quality before as I am now. In my case OSSC only and GBS-C -> OSSC have far inferior picture quality compared to GBS-C -> FOINNEX VGA2HDMI.
The RetroRGB bromance continues.
For real though, thanks, man. You’ve done more for this community than we can ever thank you for.
Thank you so much! I never wanted to buy an OSSC because for me, the out of sync delay when changing the resolution is a deal-breaker. Since I already have a GBS around... This video made me REALLY happy.
just over a minute in and Bob's getting it tight already.
Been eyeing scalers for a while, and I just can't afford a retrotink, so I bought the GBS and components last week. I've been putting off soldering it together as I just don't have confidence in my soldering skills even after watching some other videos. I'm going to practice on some scrap boards for a bit, but this is the one I'll watch again before finally getting it done. Really appreciate the commentary you add throughout, especially explaining your reasonings for the choices you make for placement and wiring. I've learnt a lot just watching this, and you've made it feel achieveable even for a beginning like me. Cheers from the uk 👍
Great video! The web menu is really an underrated feature of this. No hot keys or obscure icons to remember, its all fleshed out so nicely. And its accessible from a smartphone, so nice!
I made one of these back in November of last year and it's output/features is pretty amazing for the cost. I put in about $50 total for all the parts and pieces and I am very happy. And when I still need to hook up a composite or svideo console for streaming/recording, i still have my Tink2x. Rama did a great job with the documentation for building/software (much rarer than it should be) and xps3riments did a wonderful job updating the UI as well a while back.
Nice, I just need to test mine out
I've always been interested in upscalers ever since i got into retro gaming, I've seen and heard it all before but none of it was ever remotely in my price range, but you REALLY caught my attention when you said the price. comparing the footage, its astonishing that it's just under $50.
An alternative install method is reverse mounting a PLCC socket.
All the connections for the ESP8266 are available on the chip you'd usually connect the one debug wire to.
This also makes it plug-n-play so if for example you're testing multiple units or you upgrade to a model with an HDMI adapter built-in you'd just transplant your socketed ESP to the other board.
From your video description: Also, I swapped the wire colors for the power and ground connections (white and black) for the clock-gen. Simply wire them oppositely to the clockgen board as I did! Sorry guys!
I dont quite understand what you did wrong and what I have to do differently. Cheers!
Thanks for making more videos Voultar, always great content.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I bought the parts once the video came out, but only had time to assemble it last week. I tried it today, and it's great. Thank you for posting such informative videos for us that are just learning how to build and mod game systems. Now I can't wait to see what I can accomplish next. :)
I'm sure someone has written it before, but congrats on the way you talk to your viewership. Great way to motivate someone to do this. Welcoming, motivational, patient.
Good job.
PS: I've gotten some parts, but the clock generator is out of stock in Euroland Amazon... Oh well, I'll add it later.
Good video. The 3D printed bracket made me want to get a case with a top and bottom. You know, just to make it a little harder to bump things around on the inside where all the work was done. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Voultar! I just finished mine recently. I do have to say though, I had to watch a section of RetroRGB's video on this because I followed your instructions on how to flash the program onto the ESP8266 WIFI development board and it kept causing an error. I ended up using the LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 and mini board and it worked.
Voultar, could you please add a link to the SMD Resistor and the Capacitors, please? I've looked and I'm just not sure which to get. I can solder it, but, I can't find where to buy it. And even some of that braided conductor you used (wow, its just braided wire, my bad, rofl), if you don't mind. The shopping list doesn't have these.
This is like Mr. Carlson's Lab, but with vintage gaming stuff. Great info!
omg you're right!!! never even realized it but you're absolutely right lol
@@dregenius They even sound similar, and pronounce "solder" the same way.
I literally can't thank you enough I love how you simplified things I have been having issues with my wifi module not working right im going to start from scratch and follow your build. You my friend are a master.
As someone who has built 2 of them and love the gbs-c, just remember gbs-8200/gbs-8220 like many cheap Chinese goods don't always have the best quality control. First unit had major white balance issues (Lot of blues in it) and the board straight up died after a few weeks (using recommended triad power supply). Second one is fantastic on the other hand.
Any way to tell if the board is good or bad before doing all the software/hardware mods?
Not really sure. Probably checking Rama or the guys who did the GBS-C AIOs.
It’s amazing! it could be a little more pro with a little screen and buttons to change settings on the device instead of use a computer, but it is still an amazing device 👏 great work!
"This chip is sensitive to interference"
*glues a signal generator to it*
Uhhhhhh. Hey Voultar I get that 2.4GHz and 8MHz is different, but gods this feels insane.
It's working! It's working!! Thank you so much for this video! Initially I had forgotten to wire SDA to D2 and could not figure out what was wrong. But now I fixed it and it's working like a dream!
I probably lack the manual expertise to do this thing, and I already have an Xrgb-mini and a Retrotink-5x, but it's nice having alternatives. Not only because it's a way cheaper one, but also because the upscaling solutions may complement each other and be useful in different situations.
The quality of the ADC for HDMI makes a big difference with a GBS-C setup, many of them have bad colors or other issues. If you need HDMI, it turns out that the OSSC is what currently will give you the best results, but of course you're then adding +$120 to the cost :P Something else worth noting is that the default 1280x960 output mode will give you a better picture with less noise than 1080p, at the cost of filling up less of your screen. Oh and one more thing: you don't need to do the SCART stuff if you feed RGBS via the D-Sub ("VGA") input connector. Those with SCART setups can just use a SCART to D-Sub15 patch cable (maybe in some cases a sync stripper may also be required?). Edit: actually removing the pots will be something you want to do if you'll be using RGBS inputs, SCART or not.
Your advice during the tough installations was INSANELY helpful! Thank you so much for making this video!
I absolutely love the timing of this video release related to the new video from Epos Vox... Absolutely going to strap on for this.
I built a GBS Control and love it.
It's So good for RGB Scart or Component to a VGA monitor
How did you add scart? I really want to make one of these, but i don't want to have to buy new cables
@@cygnusx1495 there are very cheap scart female connectors, and a 3d printable GBS Control shell you can print to fit it all perfectly.
I'll get a few photos of mine later, it's an awesome project, dirt cheap, and one of the only good adaptive de-interlacing devices currently available
I'm not trying to be negative or anything but at around 38:00 you misspoke. The side facing outwards from the IC is ground and that terminates to the pad on clk2 (which is ground), and the side coming out of the IC is positive and goes to the filtering cap on the board. I was slightly confused when watching this since I intended to use C47 or C48 to source power in ground since it's in a less congested area (rama actually uses these on the GBS wiki). Just commenting in case anyone else was confused the same way I was.
Thanks so much for this, your instructions are easy to follow! I went ahead and ordered a GBS board to mod.
This felt like I was in a Kindergarten Electronics class. I say that with all love, there was no stress during the entire project, and everything was explained extremely well. Lord Voultar you are the man I don't care what Bob says about you.
Voultar - I followed your guide 100% Thank you - but please read: Your video is actually correct for the power/gnd of the clock gen. I actually followed your instructions of doing the opposite in the description, which turned out to be wrong! I put it back to how it is in the video and all is well.
Sharing info for the betterment of the retro community. Thanks, comrade!
The picture I get from my 2-chip SNES with this upscaler is absolutely incredible. Thanks for the video!!
The Parasite Eve soundtrack a beautiful touch
wasn't it alundra's ?
@@MickNavarro towards the end it was the parasite Eve Central Park song
and star ocean 2 i guess it's a mix of ps1 titles :)
And Legend of Mana. Very chill PS1 beats.
Edit: FF9 main theme!
Extremely helpful, and I absolutely adore your tutorial style - I'm still a beginner at soldering, but I managed to create a GBS-Control with your tutorial! Tried it on my PS2 and the video looks brilliant!
I've used these boards for years on arcade games, this is pretty impressive to get better results from them. They aren't bad boards, but built for low price, and every few the main chip will run crazy hot.
hi was hoping if you could enlighten me on what you said just in case it ends up affecting me/others:
do you mean the one with the heatsink on it gets hot, or the other un-heatsinked big chip by the wifi-firmware mod? i have a thermal camera if you know the expected celciuses, but it needs to charge (and I haven't done the mod yet);
also, do you know if the heatsink's epoxied or thermal pad/paste? would plugging a noctua 40mm fan into the 5v fix the overheating problem, and/or does the mod inherantly bypass the cause of the overheating (or is it from bad solderballs, cracked silicon die, dirty power, etx.? )?;
lastly what was the latest manufacturing date it happened for you cause afaik boards are still being printed (mine says 2022 07 at least, inb4 scrape&re-print to fake it look new lol)
sorry for the wall of text btw and thanks in advance for any info you can pass along. never occured to me that I should probably dry-run the card BEFORE modding it just to check it isn't DOA, I'm usually more ontop of that...
8 months later i finally finished building mine. thanks man it's awesome!
Thanks Voultar, you just gave us a beautiful one. Now... May the solder god be with me and my shaky hands!
Nicely done! The only thing I would have done different is the kapton tape on the bottom of the clock board. It is easier to just paint the bottom of the board with nail polish. Nail polish is easier to find and can be used as a solder mask on custom made home cut boards so it is a great insulator.
i thought nail polish was confirmed as being an inherantly bad option and it's just best to get a can of conformal coating for not much more dosh?
afaik it's not only cause of cleaning it off during later repairs is a pain/potentially caustic, nor it's easy to unkowingly gimp thermal emission on pins/VIAs to danger levels from too thick of a layer, but even clear NAIL POLISH is just designed completely wrong for this use case as it's an organic resin meant for temporarilly decorating impactable living bone (keratin), *NOT* for permanently boxing copper/glue/plastics/epoxy/fibreglass/etc that, during application, *may* react with the solvents in the NAIL PAINT that keep it goopy to apply as a liquid as the solvents evapourate (same with model car clear varnishes, which some can even eat away the solder mask as it sets, so when you clean it off/it degrages off you may have live bare exposed power traces, yum!)...
a proper spray can of acrylic/silicone conformal coating won't cost much in the long run, won't crack/chip, can be soldered through (i.e. no acetone bath like removing polish; just flux) and with a nozzle/straw switch can be quite controllable, WITHOUT running the risk of organic acids/salts forming from the resins & plasticisers breaking down or impacting thermals OR non-spec solvents melting away your board and components, *whilst being a guaranteed non-electrically conductive, waterproof, fire retardant that glows in UV light* .....
yeah, don't pizza when you wanna french fry. get yourself some ambersil or mg, dawg.
I know the GBS Control has its limitations with 1080p and its aspect ratio, but after remembering all the parts used for the original GBS-82XX boards (and the HDMI variants with SCART and component inputs) and even seeing custom boards like the Mcbazel ODV variant (which is still able to be updatable with the software from Rama), but I've thought of an idea that could work with all GBS control boards including the Mcbazel ODV variant I have (call me crazy if you will): "having an Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 to not only override the current chipset of the GBS-82XX series boards' limitations, but to also enhance the picture quality to also fix the aspect ratio switching for all resolutions, and even use the MKR Vidor 4000 to work in conjunction with the GBSC to 4K60 or 4K30, and to also work as a small FPGA decoder for composite video to work with composite video and S-Video via the green component port or with a SCART adapter."
I know it sounds silly and crazy, but to me it sounds like a good idea. And according to one Arduino forum about the MKR Vidor 4000, it's actually possible to store an input of 1080p60 to the SDRAM, so IF the FPGA on the MKR Vidor 4000 could override the current ASIC (which I am assuming is the one surface mounted chip with the heatsink on top) by finding the right pins for soldering some jumper wires to fix aspect ratio issues and hardware limitations (kinda similar how Tim Worthington's NESRGB kit or the NES Lava RGB kit which I did just find out about can override the original NES hardware's picture limitations to output RGB) so having someone else to program the MKR Vidor 4000 could actually work in conjunction with the GBSC Project with the right solder points regardless if using the original GBS-82XX boards or the HDMI variants, or custom-made ones like my Mcbazel ODV one which has a built in clock generator.
This is inspiring. It reminds me that problems have coherent solutions under the hood.
In all sincerity... this was possibly the most pleasant educational video I have ever watched. STOP SAYING "SORRY" Every shot was clear and well documented... completely unnecessary to say sorry! Great job!!! On the other hand, if you ever get over confident the pleasantness might dissipate. Keep up the great work!!!
Shocked about the hot glue. Especially on a heat sink. I don't know how hot that gets, but seems like it could compromise the glue, and also make the heat sink much less effective, both from the glue, and covering the heat sink, reducing airflow over the fins. Wish you would have talked more about that. That said, awesome video. Thank you!
@44:13 The Bob Ross comparison is spot on and oh!!! look who it is. Great video BTW
I can't wait to build one of these. I have a few arcade pcb's that really dislike the OSSC. I'm hoping this does the trick for my supergun.
Great to see you up and around and feeling better post-covid shots.
I love how you comment everything like the viewer does it and you compliment the viewer. But basically you compliment yourself. 😂 😊 Fun to watch and I think I learned something 👍
Thanks Voultar I'm going to be ordering all the parts for this tonight and giving it a go 👌👌 I just got the hyper neogeo 64 and this should clean up the 480i perfect
No way man I literally just bought a retrotink. I even looked into building my own and didn’t find any good resources
Surprised nobody has taken that board and build a new version with the mods (and HDMI out). Seems like it would kill as a pre-built solution.
Not worth it really. Can't sell it for more than $75-80 because you're getting into OSSC territory at much more. Is $30-ish profit per board worth the effort? Not to me. This really is just for the DIY crowd.
@@schweatty Not doing what is done in the video, and then selling it. Redoing the PCB and manufacture it from the start with the right components etc. It shouldn’t be much more expensive to make, and should maintain the normal profit margins of the original manufacturer.
Voultar, your videos are a real treat. Informative and hilarious. Excellent work. Thank you!
I love how calm and smooth this is. You almost don't notice the ardildo comment
Brilliant as always, I’ve been curious about the diy solutions in this space for a while now. Thanks for sharing this one
The original caps are 100nF, so just replacing them with 10uFs is approximately the same as putting the 10uFs in parallel, only cleaner, especially if you get 0603s.
I have this one, GBS 8200, with the Control mod installed, it's really amazing.
So I built this and it seems to be working great except for one minor issue. Unless you have the HDRetrovision Yprpb cables (which good luck buying them, they are sold out everywhere and scalpers are charging $80 or more) then it cannot accept the standard RCA ouput from a NES, SNES or N64 (the yellow and red connections on the back of the NES) by default. You could try some convaluted adapter chain like going from RCA to VGA, etc. But by the time you did all that, you might as well of bought the Retrotink in the first place.
Goddamned man, you gave me a nostalgia trip with those songs you played during the video.
Your videos have been quite helpful, I finished a NESRGB mod the other day! I'll just say that it was my first attempt so some things may or may not have gone wrong... but it's all a learning experience!
Respect. You said AR-DILDO more than once and did not even acknowledge the humor in it. You are a strong man.
I see you're using a v4.0 revision of the board, but I've found a v5.1 for cheap - any idea if any of the soldering tasks would be different?
I just did a v5.1 over the weekend. There are less pins where the MCU is to be soldered in place. As it just so happens I was using a D1 Mini where D2 and GND still lined up fine with SDA and GND on the GBS.
Oh yeah, and 5V I grabbed from a spot that was meant to have a diode, near the described spot, but instead had a 0 ohm resistor.
Hey, Voultar - another great video!
I'm ordering parts for this project now and I have a clarification question about the ceramic capacitor recommendation you made in the video. You say, "Anything above 10 volts is perfectly fine." To be clear, does that mean it really should be above 10 volts for some reason? Or would that include 10 volts as being "perfectly fine", but you recommend more because of some reason? I ask because I'm having trouble finding 10uf ceramic capacitors from brands I recognize with values above 10 volts on Ebay. I'll order from wherever, that was just the first place I checked because I need some other stuff from Ebay, as well.
Thanks for the great content! Still hoping you bring back the "Legend of the Douche" or "Bad Modwork Repair" series of videos, by the way. Aside from the hilarious commentary, they truly serve as a great example to noobs like myself of what not to do and why, as well as how to fix mistakes. Cheers!
@14:40 everyone neglects to mention that you may need to install the CP210x Windows driver (available from Silicon Labs) before the device can properly be recognized and assigned a COM port.
Voultar always playing the soundtrack to my teenage years.
Me: Has a RT5X, definitely doesn't need this
Also me: Cheap solder project, whooooo!!!!
Hi you from Brasil !!
This is the best GBS8200 video i've seen here !!
Would you sell the kit (clock board and the other Microcontroller programmed) to brasil (i mean, open an exception...)? I have (and using) GBS8200 in my MSX with RGBS and not so happy with the quality (just pretty decent).
Here is very hard to obtain or buy electronic components (if no expensive!!).
Thanx 4 all !!
Always love watching your work. One thing I was hoping you would do for the USB power connector was to remove the pins from the 5V connector and just crimp some terminals using the original USB cable, and then just shove the terminals back into the connector.
Thanks ever so much Voultar! I am gonna build one of those for sure!!! You live in my heart!
I'm going to build on of these to connect to a VGA CRT and I can't wait!
about the vga-hdmi converter
vga socket has a dedicated pin for 5v so suplying 5v on that dedicated pin of the vga output socket and then wiring it internaly in that converter you can avoid any external cable and the vga socket would still be vga standard compliant if you remove the conector plus no dangly bits. most of the vga cables carry 5v to the other side and some of the on cable converters can be directly powered by vga cable or be modyfied to be like my mini vga2hdmi is
what vga pin is 5v? :)
@@micbanand technically pin no 9 on the vga vesa capable output
pin 9 is also over current protected if implemented corectly because some devices use older vga pinout (without digital data ) where pin 9 is either disconected or connected to ground
in theory it suposed to work like this, 5v on pin 9 and clock on pin 15 are send to monitor and it return plug and play information over pins 11 nad or 12
clock , data 1 and data 0 are compatybile with any monitor, meaning if you bridge those pins from vga to hdmi monitor info pins in that converter shown on video, it will work corectly in windows 10 identyfying resolutions suported by hdmi monitor and passing them back to vga output so windows 10 will know what to send back. i had problems with one of those converters making my laptop only showing 360p resolution when connected to my monitor, but internally wiring pins 9, 11,12 and 15 to hdmi coresponding pins gave me all my monitor avalable resolutions to chose from,some of them gave black screen because converter didn't like them but most of them worked fine up to 1080p
@@micbanand one more thing, i was using this on any crazy converter i build in the past (mostly in early 2000's) and it worked for my constructions every time for example i made a vga to composite converter out of one conexant chip found on some voodoo 1 cards (probably the only one with analog setup pins), it worked with any computer that could produce composite synch on vga connector, other wise garbled image, but it always could take 5v to power itself from graphic card in my pc's and laptops we testet it with with my friend
Awesome video so far! I'm not a DIY "eletronician" (or whatever the word is), but I can appreciate the video!
For weeks I couldn’t figure out why my board would go black after starting up. Video would show up perfect and then the GBS would go black. Long story short I forgot to remove that one stupid C11 capacitor. Jesus. Thanks for this video bro.
I bought an GBS-8200 many years ago and put it aside because I hated it. Glad I can give it a second life for a few bucks!
Just stumbled on this channel recently and I love all the content you are putting out! I'm an electronics enthusiast and I enjoy fixing random devices (cell phones, TVs, etc). Lots of great rework techniques here not just applicable for retro gaming. I'm curious, what is your go-to supplier for parts, Mouser, Digikey, other?
Music in this video was 10/10, fantastic guide start to finish.
"Ooh hooo"..spit my coffee out. Wasn't expecting it.
Now this was a fantastic video to watch. I'm yet to get an upscaler and this would definitely be enough for my needs. I just need to think if my soldering skills are up to the job.
Love the FF8 music at the end... was always my favourite FF
Why not take the surface mount capacitors off the board and replace with a new capacitor for the desired total capacitance? Instead of this 'stacking' method (which looks tougher to me than just replacing?)
Yeah I was wondering that too. Strange.
The easiest thing to do is to not take any advice from Voultar. His soldering skills are awful.
@@2dfx And where are your videos demonstrating your expert soldering skills?
@@TheDainerss I'll snap you some of that guuud shit
Because, Voultar is trying to stay as close to the original instructions provided by RAMA who created this mod. RAMA clearly says to stack the "SMD capacitors in parallel to stock ones"
God Bless Voultar 👏🏻
I already own a rt2x and OSSC but still want to build one of these just for the natively supported VGA out. Been trying to get HDMI to VGA adapters to cooperate with a certain CRT computer monitor I had with no luck and this looks like the best way to go about hooking my Super Famicom to it finally.
Loved the FF7 and Pilotwings tracks, so fitting
Hey boss! Maybe do a disclaimer that sometimes ardildo can't find your ESP8266 , and you best bet is to get the drivers and install them. My ardildo was dead set on poking the COM3 port, but after drivers, it upgraded to porking COM5.
Thank you for this thorough tutorial. It will be helpful for generations to come.
Brother told me about this, blew it off as "Yeah right" then noticed the video was by Voultar and was like "Oh maybe it does work".
I thought this looked fairly straight forward and bought all the parts to do to build this. wow it's tiny. I don't think I can be that precise with the soldering. I expect it will be in the E-waste in a week or two...
Is there any chance that you will show us how to build a proper and safe to use SCART input?
Would also love to see that as I am aiming to use that with my PS1 console via RGB cable!
It's interesting he stated that he divorced scart because no one makes quality scart cables. I thought resurrection industries and RGC UK make good cables?