Thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed the cheapo hack, see the description for links to those mentioned who deserve credit for their findings. Nb. Any differences in colour are as a result of me playing with brightness/contrast/saturation on the GBS rather than an effect of the mod. Hopefully this proves useful to you and pethaps in the future I'll get to reviewing a premium alternative to see how it stacks up.
Hi there, a lot of thanks for pointing us at this board. I just got mine. One thing you should know is that the connector behind the VGA input is DIRECTLY connected to the VGA in. Meaning R,G,B and composite sync...you should use a VGA cable, and only chop off one end of the cable and replace it with an Amiga 23 pin connector. Much nicer than using that white plastic plug. My A1000 now goes straight into the VGA input.
Looking back to this video I can really recommend the gbs8220 with the gbs control mod and the esp8266 module. Even a board that did not provide a good picture came to life with very good results
Thank you for the video, it was very informational and helpful. I watched the part 1 too and you convinced me. I just placed my order for one of those boards. My Amiga 1200 with Blizzard 1230 Mk IV (16MB RAM) and her little sister, the Amiga 500 will both love it. ;)
Hi Neil, watched both these videos, perfect technical details and fixes. I got the 8200 and it also works perfectly with the QL and 128K Spectrum, next on on the list is the Atari ST. It's great when you find a gem like these videos 👍
I finally got my GBS-8220 to work with my C128's 80 column display. But yeah... take a guess... noise... in the form of random white dots. Your little trick, with strategically placed metallic tape on the underside and covering the wires in it as well, seemed to work... So thanks again :)
I was going to comment about this being a great "quick and dirty" mod, but it's more of a great "quick and clean" mode. I wasn't expecting that much of a difference -- night and day! The output looks great.
Thank you for this. I had not even given it a thought that this would be fixable. I had decided it was just an unavoidable artifact of a cheap conversion technique. .. Now, where did I put that foil tape.?.?
I had the same experience putting tape over all of the traces. I figured why not, the less noise the better right? When I plugged it in and tried the juggler demo it was terrible. I thought I had broke it at first.
Those are vast improvements. It really looks beautiful. Your other videos have always made me want an Amiga. But this one seals the deal. Having VGA would be crucial. I see so many folks using them for other practical purposes these days, gaming aside. I'd love to have one for making music, perhaps using something like Music-X. Being able to use regular ol' VGA would make it a perfect addition to any studio. Would you say that this option is far more economical than other methods of getting modern video output options like VGA? Have you ever used an Amiga for other music purposes? Thanks RMC!
There's another way of adding extra shielding. By taping the inside of a plastic shell or project box and grounding the tape might provide some extra shielding. The same process might also work if you glue pecies of aluminum foil from the inside too.
You can get much nicer boxes from an electrical wholesalers for a few quid. Just applied the fix mentioned here and it works much better. Thanks for that.
RetroManCave On a more serious note. Have any members of the Amiga community considered reverse engineering this (or obtaining schematics) to build the improvements in to the board? Or has it been done and these are some of the more expensive options you mentioned?
There are a few people working on it (see links in description). Some have gone so far as to hook up an Arduino to it to alter its behaviour. It makes for interesting reading and there is some great technical work happening on it, but this was more of a practical approach with a cost balance. I hope to get a more "premium" product soon to make comparisons.
Thanks for showing us this great device and how to improve on it. I have a question or two however. Did you get the 23 pin female rgb connector with the GBS-8220? If not know any places that they can be picked up? Also, did you try the copper shielding trick and with a different cable or did you use your already DIY'd shielded cable that you made in the first part of the video? Also where are those menus coming from? The GBS itself? Thank you in advance and keep up the good work :)
To make this mod look more professional You could have just wired the db23 into the VGA plug at the other end of the VGA cable, then plugged that into the GBS8220 instead of that connector which doesn't look as nice . The copper tape fix works extremely well though. I also use my GBS8200 on my Amstrad CPC464 as well as Spectrum +2. My Amiga 500 has never looked better on a monitor.
Great comparision video! the GBS is a little cheap great device!. I made a pcb to improve the signal quality on amiga's and add support to Atari ST machines.
th-cam.com/video/ovdLIigU8is/w-d-xo.html here is a video demo and there is a link on the description. Sorry my phone is not so good recording screens :(
Is there any place has a LBB for this thing? Also, how well does an ST do through this with its strange High & low/med resolutions? Or even a Beeb? A very interesting video as always!
The old cable had to be hacked up to create the new one unfortunately. In the case of the Amiga you'd want to make up a cable with the resistor on anyway so you might as well make both. I'd be interested to hear how others get on trying the copper tape on other systems like arcades/neo geo and if it makes a difference for them
Wondering if you ever got around to this, I recently bought an Amstrad PPC640 the "portable" with the crappy 9 inch 1980's LCD however it has a CGA out, I have seen some people try this with a revision of that board but they failed, however they did not seem to understand the kit as well as you, would be handy to know if it would work.
Yes I know what you mean and that still appears. I'd like to try some other upscalers and see if it happens on them also. I don't think we can fix it with tape 😁
This is an artifact of the board applying de-interlacing to a progressive source. Some people are using raspberry Pis or Arduinos to control the video processor chip directly and turn it off. (among other things) Maybe some day they'll figure out how to flash and overwrite the junk firmware directly instead of grafting another device on to bypass it.
Nice little board, a nice perspex case for it would look good, does anyone do them? I went the route of a SCART to HDMI converter which is working very well for me at the moment and seemed a good bargain at about £23. The converter also has a HDMI input so I don't necessarily loose a HDMI port on my TV (which thankfully also still has a VGA input - which I am hoping to connect up to my Voodoo 3 once my A1200 is working again).
Gary Broadhead one end needs to be DB23 the other to go into the gbs board. I tried it via the vga input on the gbs board but no luck it needs to use the other input with the included cable
Hi, How to add an EGA input to the GBS board? EGA has 6 color channels and 2 HV channels. Where do I plug them in? This is more than RGB. I have an Amstrad 1640 with EGA output which I want to plug to an VGA monitor.
Hi. I bought a gbs8220 (exactly the one you reviewed) from ebay which is missing a capacitor at location C28 (and the board looks like a dud - it doesnt work.). I want to put one there but not sure of its value. Could you help me out by measuring capacitance on the C28 pads (with component in)? I dont ask you to remove it, I just want to have some reference value. Thanks!
I'm interested in using this for my Playstation 2 and Xbox. I have a 720p LG tv from 2011 or so with an RGB VGA input. Did you test the GBS board with any 480i signals?
Hi. do you know of a splitter I can use on the amiga? So that I can split the signal without converting anything, then have one cable going to my 1084 monitor and the other to this device? I would like to be able to record or perhaps stream but still use the 1084 monitor for my self. I tried to google a bit but haven't found anything yet.
I see what you mean. I haven't tried this so can't vouch for if it will work but you could look into something like an RGB splitter sending one signal to your CRT and the other to your scaler/sync converter. Take a look at RGB Distribution Amplifiers.
I seem to still have noise issues even after the mod. In fact I'm not sure I noticed any difference. The noise is just like what you are having but it seems way worse on my screen. Perhaps just hard to pickup on your video. Do you have any further suggestions? Thanks for making the video though it's great as are your other videos!! Keep it up.
I did and I didn't. When I grounded it I found I had some noise again so I broke the connection and had it floating. Others I know have grounded it with no noise so I'd say try both and see what works for you. I grounded the cable shielding also.
It would be interesting to see, although I think if latency is a real concern to a degree more than "it feels about right and I can enjoy playing games on it" you're likely to be willing to spend a bit more than £15 on a solution. I hope to get hold of some more premium converters in the future and will run side by side comparisons when I do.
That sounds mildly average really doesn't it. Another reason not to spend too much time or effort on it for anything more than some casual gaming, although I've enjoyed fast paced games like Kick Off 2 without any issue.
Yes I've mentioned that in my pinned comment. That was just where I had been messing around with the brightness/contrast/saturation on the GBS menu and not a result of any mods
You're using the pin header on the board to build a cable to the amiga's output. Out of curiosity does that VGA port by the pins act as a input? Could you have just built an adapter from the amiga's video out to a VGA port and used a standard VGA cable? Just curious. I'm hunting down either an A1200 or a A500 for my own gaming usage and find this fascinating.
Some people on here have commented that they have used the VGA input. I tried it before using the header cable and it didn't work for me, so I cut the end off and used the header cable. The RGB POTS on the board also don't function for the VGA input and only with the header input so that's a small advantage.
@@RMCRetro I had no luck either trying to connect using the VGA input at first. BUT, very recently I did the GBS-Control mod. It does work for me using the VGA input now. I combine it with a buffered DB23 to VGA adapter. Really excellent image quality, with no perceptible lag. I tried to hook it up first using the RGBS pins above the VGA connector (including an 680 resistor on CSYNC), but I got a slight but annoying interference pattern.
@@bennybil3551 Hey man, I also have the same setup using GBS-control. I wanted to start using the VGA input to the board also and I made myself a cable using VGA cable and then soldering and Amiga RGB connector to the other end and using the 680ohm resistor in the c-sync. It works, but not in a good way, I get insane looking vertical lines now. So do you think it cannot be done by cable alone and I need an adapter? I only thought buffered adapters where needed is say you were plugging directly into a monitor (no GBS 8220)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
Hm... Do you think such cheap shielding would work for my Gameboy Zero somehow? I'm getting lots of noise and weird moving scan lines and this looks interesting
I don't know what your GBZ looks like on the inside, but i think it's more likely to be a case of component or cable damage that needs to be repaired rather than something that can be helped with a bit of extra shielding, but you'll only know for certain after you try. What screen do you use and what connection between screen and zero do you use? composite or parallel?
give it a try, if you place some tape on the traces and apply pressure without taking the backing off the tape you should soon have an idea, just be careful not to knock component legs poking through the board and short them.
Before I do I will look if I actually need it. When do you plan to look at your MVS-2 ? I made my own bartop based on a Neo Geo with a real MVS-4 slot and also replicated the mini marquee system with an arduino so it shows what game is selected.
A Unibios ? the caps on the sound section are known to go bad, cartridge slots can also have problems. It's best to test with no cartridge and look for the white boxes at first.
RetroManCave i saw those yuv composite and i taught they were used for imput and the RGB for output. And i intend to use an monitor with RGB imput just like yours. (And sorry for the bad English, im Brazilian) Good CRT tvs are quite rare nowdays on Brazil, and well preserved old CRT monitors are way more common.
Kevin Jones keep breaking things until they break less :D also do check out other channels I mention in videos there are loads of people I look up to on YT and learn lots from
RetroManCave sorry i wasn't specific and quite blunt. The head you plugged your cable into looked to share traces with the vga port next to it. Thought it might be possible to bypass rewiring one end of the cable.
Because it's not external interference that's the issue, it's crosstalk between the lines, that a little bit of capacitance that the tape introduces sufficiently suppresses.
Siana Gearz ah, I didn't think of that. So if they used a 3 or 4 layer pcb and ran the signals on the internal layers with ground fill on the outer layers.
4 layer is indeed often done specifically for crosstalk suppression and EMI reasons. Normally you flood the inner layers with fill, and they sit on a relatively thick core quite close to the surface, and route your signal and data on the outer layers and it usually works just as well but is much more reliable to manufacture and easier to test and inspect! The ground goes component side inner layer and the vcc fill goes opposite side inner layer. Additionally whatever place you have left over on the surface, you via stitch it to the ground layer. You can also stick some separators into a noisy bus and stitch them through. Remember when they introduced 80-conductor IDE cables to improve reliability and push frequencies beyond 33 MHz? It simply had a ground wire between each signal wire.
If you want to further mod it, if you have an arduino you can improve things possibly further, a friend of mine has been working on a project which may be worth checking out :) github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control Nice bit of State of the Art at the end there :) Love that demo
Many thanks for the link, I had avoided buying one of these devices due to the reported issues with 50Hz input and output but that project looks like it can fix the input problems and provide a 576p50 output.
I've attempted to create a simple DAC from a the "pull-both" schematic (sites.google.com/site/h2obsession/_/rsrc/1400341943224/CBM/C128/images/pull2-rgba-xor.gif) to convert from RGBi CGA signal from an Eagle IBM-compatible, but it didn't work. I don't trust my soldering, so I can't tell where I failed, the GBS-8200 just doesn't find the signal. I don't have an oscilloscope so I can't tell if a signal is even being produced from the computer. I know there is a CGA DAC I can buy but It is $35 and the my original solution would of just cost $4 if it had worked. I don't really care if the colors are a bit off considering the monitor that came with Eagle was monochrome green, when it was working.
Great video, I wondered if you'd heard of this project based on the GBS-8220 replacing it with custom software, it looks great!? I'm planning on having a go at making one myself adding a SCART to RGB adapter with a sync stripper chip. Anyway reading up on this project it seems the noise has been fixed in the software... github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control
Thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed the cheapo hack, see the description for links to those mentioned who deserve credit for their findings. Nb. Any differences in colour are as a result of me playing with brightness/contrast/saturation on the GBS rather than an effect of the mod.
Hopefully this proves useful to you and pethaps in the future I'll get to reviewing a premium alternative to see how it stacks up.
gr8 video as usual, was wondering if u could tell me make of oscilloscope u used in amiga video
Dooklink made a custom firmware for the gbs that gets rid of interlacing
Also there is a component out mod but I didn't do that. Just forced 720p out over VGA into a non scaling vga2hdmi
Hi there, a lot of thanks for pointing us at this board. I just got mine. One thing you should know is that the connector behind the VGA input is DIRECTLY connected to the VGA in. Meaning R,G,B and composite sync...you should use a VGA cable, and only chop off one end of the cable and replace it with an Amiga 23 pin connector. Much nicer than using that white plastic plug. My A1000 now goes straight into the VGA input.
What is the best (if money does not matter) alternative?
Great fix. I must admit to been a little lost until the side by side at 4:48 . Yes, when seen together, a massive improvement.
Thanks Wiggy yes it's hard to show the noise but the side by side didn't leave me in any doubt about its success
Looking back to this video I can really recommend the gbs8220 with the gbs control mod and the esp8266 module. Even a board that did not provide a good picture came to life with very good results
This channel seriously needs 100k+ subs by next week. Wonderful Channel.
Thats very kind thank you sir
Thank you for the video, it was very informational and helpful. I watched the part 1 too and you convinced me. I just placed my order for one of those boards. My Amiga 1200 with Blizzard 1230 Mk IV (16MB RAM) and her little sister, the Amiga 500 will both love it. ;)
Hi Neil, watched both these videos, perfect technical details and fixes. I got the 8200 and it also works perfectly with the QL and 128K Spectrum, next on on the list is the Atari ST. It's great when you find a gem like these videos 👍
I finally got my GBS-8220 to work with my C128's 80 column display. But yeah... take a guess... noise... in the form of random white dots. Your little trick, with strategically placed metallic tape on the underside and covering the wires in it as well, seemed to work... So thanks again :)
I was going to comment about this being a great "quick and dirty" mod, but it's more of a great "quick and clean" mode. I wasn't expecting that much of a difference -- night and day! The output looks great.
Thank you for being humble enough to show your mistake! Now others who try it (or have tried it) will know and not feel so bad ;)
Thanks for posting - this hack made a huge improvement (video signal sourced from a Barcrest MPU4 Video Arcade system)
Great thanks Neil, decided to go this route for my atariST. Some great tips here.
At last; an end to my 30-year wait for a solution to snails on my Amiga! Thank you, life!
Hence the heavy shielding around the FR modulators on the C64 and Atari 800XL.
Good stuff! I have a spare GBS board that I was never pleased with the picture from. I might have to dig it out and give the copper tape trick a try.
Thank you for this. I had not even given it a thought that this would be fixable. I had decided it was just an unavoidable artifact of a cheap conversion technique. .. Now, where did I put that foil tape.?.?
Thank you for making this video. Helped me clear up the noise on my Amiga GBS-8220 setup as well ❤️
You are most welcome Morten, I'm glad it helped you
I had the same experience putting tape over all of the traces. I figured why not, the less noise the better right? When I plugged it in and tried the juggler demo it was terrible. I thought I had broke it at first.
Hah I'm glad it wasn't just me, it seemed like the logical thing to do but evidently not!
RetroManCave it most likely added extra capacitance between the traces and let them couple noise between each other.
@@jakewilkes7610 what if you connect the copper to ground? It's left floating now.
Those are vast improvements. It really looks beautiful. Your other videos have always made me want an Amiga. But this one seals the deal. Having VGA would be crucial. I see so many folks using them for other practical purposes these days, gaming aside. I'd love to have one for making music, perhaps using something like Music-X. Being able to use regular ol' VGA would make it a perfect addition to any studio. Would you say that this option is far more economical than other methods of getting modern video output options like VGA? Have you ever used an Amiga for other music purposes? Thanks RMC!
Great vid Neil. Copper tape is a good shield for RF interference and a cheap fix too. Seeya in your next adventure RMC......Kim😁😁😁😁
Thank you for this, the copper tape worked on my unit too!
Got one of those a while back... now I know what to do... simply brilliant... Thanks!
There's another way of adding extra shielding. By taping the inside of a plastic shell or project box and grounding the tape might provide some extra shielding. The same process might also work if you glue pecies of aluminum foil from the inside too.
I'm thinking mounting it inside a copper lined lunchbox would be a super cheap next step for protection of the device as much as anything.
You can get much nicer boxes from an electrical wholesalers for a few quid. Just applied the fix mentioned here and it works much better. Thanks for that.
Also. I think I am going to fix mine on the back of my monitor using the holes that are used to fix it on a wall bracket.
The db15 connector on the input side connects to breakout pins. Wouldn’t using a cable modified at one end with a db23 work?
This could be exactly what I’m looking for ! Nice one
thank you for this video. So the most wanted upgrade I'd want for my GBS would be a copper tape shield ? right ? thanks
What if I want snails on my Amiga?
If you like a mollusc in your miggy then this isn't the mod for you
RetroManCave On a more serious note. Have any members of the Amiga community considered reverse engineering this (or obtaining schematics) to build the improvements in to the board? Or has it been done and these are some of the more expensive options you mentioned?
There are a few people working on it (see links in description). Some have gone so far as to hook up an Arduino to it to alter its behaviour. It makes for interesting reading and there is some great technical work happening on it, but this was more of a practical approach with a cost balance. I hope to get a more "premium" product soon to make comparisons.
Thanks for showing us this great device and how to improve on it. I have a question or two however. Did you get the 23 pin female rgb connector with the GBS-8220? If not know any places that they can be picked up? Also, did you try the copper shielding trick and with a different cable or did you use your already DIY'd shielded cable that you made in the first part of the video?
Also where are those menus coming from? The GBS itself?
Thank you in advance and keep up the good work :)
I liked to keep my vintage computers snail & slug free so thank you!
To make this mod look more professional You could have just wired the db23 into the VGA plug at the other end of the VGA cable, then plugged that into the GBS8220 instead of that connector which doesn't look as nice . The copper tape fix works extremely well though.
I also use my GBS8200 on my Amstrad CPC464 as well as Spectrum +2. My Amiga 500 has never looked better on a monitor.
Great comparision video! the GBS is a little cheap great device!. I made a pcb to improve the signal quality on amiga's and add support to Atari ST machines.
That sounds fun do you have a blog or any info?
th-cam.com/video/ovdLIigU8is/w-d-xo.html here is a video demo and there is a link on the description. Sorry my phone is not so good recording screens :(
Is it more that you want to ground it or stop emi from affecting it? Would faraday tape fair better results if it’s just to block interference
Some kapton tape uder the copper may prevent shorting and make a slightly neater hack/fix.
I added the 680 ohm resistor and everything is displaying smaller afterward. Any idea how to fix that?
Perhaps getting it inside a metal case will assist with the stray EMF interference.
Project Geek I'm on the lookout for one in the dumpster 😁 that or a copper lined lunchbox
RetroManCave A lunch box could be a great mod!
Thundercats, Pole Position or Transformers?
RetroManCave Ooh tough call, but Transformers were the bee's knees.
Is there any place has a LBB for this thing?
Also, how well does an ST do through this with its strange High & low/med resolutions?
Or even a Beeb?
A very interesting video as always!
Will this work with an 8200 as well?
I wonder. Is the copper tape trick enough, or is the homebrew cable also needed to get this result? What's the result of copper tape and old cable?
The old cable had to be hacked up to create the new one unfortunately. In the case of the Amiga you'd want to make up a cable with the resistor on anyway so you might as well make both. I'd be interested to hear how others get on trying the copper tape on other systems like arcades/neo geo and if it makes a difference for them
Question, is your board get hot? Mine here I put a cooler to try to cold because when I use for the first time the big chip gets too hot.
Ok now my favourite channel for sure 😁
Could you make a video using the GBS to convert a PC CGA signal to VGA please?
Xalalalala Attic Treats hehe thanks. If I get an older PC or a CGA card for my 486 I'll be sure to capture some Alley Cat. Mmmm magenta!
RetroManCave thanks 😉 I really love cyan and magenta 😂
Well now I'll use my GBS for sure with the Amiga and with my CGA computers eventually!
👍
Wondering if you ever got around to this, I recently bought an Amstrad PPC640 the "portable" with the crappy 9 inch 1980's LCD however it has a CGA out, I have seen some people try this with a revision of that board but they failed, however they did not seem to understand the kit as well as you, would be handy to know if it would work.
Looks much better but what about the "warping" effect you see around the mouse pointer? I noticed that on mine and I can't stop seeing it. :-)
Yes I know what you mean and that still appears. I'd like to try some other upscalers and see if it happens on them also. I don't think we can fix it with tape 😁
This is an artifact of the board applying de-interlacing to a progressive source. Some people are using raspberry Pis or Arduinos to control the video processor chip directly and turn it off. (among other things) Maybe some day they'll figure out how to flash and overwrite the junk firmware directly instead of grafting another device on to bypass it.
Nice little board, a nice perspex case for it would look good, does anyone do them? I went the route of a SCART to HDMI converter which is working very well for me at the moment and seemed a good bargain at about £23. The converter also has a HDMI input so I don't necessarily loose a HDMI port on my TV (which thankfully also still has a VGA input - which I am hoping to connect up to my Voodoo 3 once my A1200 is working again).
gr8 video can u tell me what type of oscillerscope lcd u used in the amiga 500 videos
Try Dynablaster with this upscaler, i have noticed it overscans too much
Ace video as always, can I ask why you cut both ends off the vga cable?
Gary Broadhead one end needs to be DB23 the other to go into the gbs board. I tried it via the vga input on the gbs board but no luck it needs to use the other input with the included cable
RetroManCave I can input via the vga or the header. I have noticed that not all the boards are created to the same quality level.
Surely the ferrite clips will only attenuate radiated noise, not incoming noise?
Whats a good monitor for Amiga, any as long as 4:3 aspect ratio?
I prefer all my devices snail-free. Good video as always!
The newer cable in the first 3 mins did brighten the colours but thats it. lol
2:31 Glad I'm not the only one! #noregrets
Hi, How to add an EGA input to the GBS board? EGA has 6 color channels and 2 HV channels. Where do I plug them in? This is more than RGB. I have an Amstrad 1640 with EGA output which I want to plug to an VGA monitor.
Hi. I bought a gbs8220 (exactly the one you reviewed) from ebay which is missing a capacitor at location C28 (and the board looks like a dud - it doesnt work.). I want to put one there but not sure of its value. Could you help me out by measuring capacitance on the C28 pads (with component in)? I dont ask you to remove it, I just want to have some reference value. Thanks!
i only had some silver voil left . but that did not work .. so probably only copper voil works
I'm interested in using this for my Playstation 2 and Xbox. I have a 720p LG tv from 2011 or so with an RGB VGA input. Did you test the GBS board with any 480i signals?
Hi. do you know of a splitter I can use on the amiga? So that I can split the signal without converting anything, then have one cable going to my 1084 monitor and the other to this device? I would like to be able to record or perhaps stream but still use the 1084 monitor for my self. I tried to google a bit but haven't found anything yet.
I see what you mean. I haven't tried this so can't vouch for if it will work but you could look into something like an RGB splitter sending one signal to your CRT and the other to your scaler/sync converter. Take a look at RGB Distribution Amplifiers.
Hi, have a question.. Do you recommend GBS-8200 to be connected on 12v (16 AMP) or 5v (4AMP) on the power supply?
Shouldn't any shield be connected to mass?
Hello RMC, Did you connect those straps to ground?
Nice video! Where did you get your hands on a 23 pin D type?
That was ebay! I guess I got lucky that day
I seem to still have noise issues even after the mod. In fact I'm not sure I noticed any difference. The noise is just like what you are having but it seems way worse on my screen. Perhaps just hard to pickup on your video. Do you have any further suggestions? Thanks for making the video though it's great as are your other videos!! Keep it up.
Where the heck did you find those pristine female DB23s?
did you ground the tape? without ground it works like antenna and can amplify noise depending on position
I did and I didn't. When I grounded it I found I had some noise again so I broke the connection and had it floating. Others I know have grounded it with no noise so I'd say try both and see what works for you. I grounded the cable shielding also.
RetroManCave wondering now if the copper on just the board itself would be the only thing needed to be done in the 1st place?
I've just bought this and db23 cable. Do you have a link for foil and psu?
Hi, I'm late to the party, but maybe someone will response :) Should be this resistor added also with AMIGA 500?
I'd be interested in a latency test. Film with a slomo phone camera and test with a normal Amiga monitor vs VGA vs composite etc
It would be interesting to see, although I think if latency is a real concern to a degree more than "it feels about right and I can enjoy playing games on it" you're likely to be willing to spend a bit more than £15 on a solution. I hope to get hold of some more premium converters in the future and will run side by side comparisons when I do.
RetroManCave My Life in Gaming did a latency test on the device. It was about 1-2 frames.
That sounds mildly average really doesn't it. Another reason not to spend too much time or effort on it for anything more than some casual gaming, although I've enjoyed fast paced games like Kick Off 2 without any issue.
hello Ian, did you notice the big change in hue of the red wall with the fix? it went from red to a somewhat orange brownish color....
Yes I've mentioned that in my pinned comment. That was just where I had been messing around with the brightness/contrast/saturation on the GBS menu and not a result of any mods
RetroManCave 👍
You're using the pin header on the board to build a cable to the amiga's output. Out of curiosity does that VGA port by the pins act as a input? Could you have just built an adapter from the amiga's video out to a VGA port and used a standard VGA cable? Just curious. I'm hunting down either an A1200 or a A500 for my own gaming usage and find this fascinating.
Some people on here have commented that they have used the VGA input. I tried it before using the header cable and it didn't work for me, so I cut the end off and used the header cable. The RGB POTS on the board also don't function for the VGA input and only with the header input so that's a small advantage.
@@RMCRetro I had no luck either trying to connect using the VGA input at first. BUT, very recently I did the GBS-Control mod. It does work for me using the VGA input now. I combine it with a buffered DB23 to VGA adapter. Really excellent image quality, with no perceptible lag. I tried to hook it up first using the RGBS pins above the VGA connector (including an 680 resistor on CSYNC), but I got a slight but annoying interference pattern.
@@bennybil3551 Hey man, I also have the same setup using GBS-control. I wanted to start using the VGA input to the board also and I made myself a cable using VGA cable and then soldering and Amiga RGB connector to the other end and using the 680ohm resistor in the c-sync. It works, but not in a good way, I get insane looking vertical lines now. So do you think it cannot be done by cable alone and I need an adapter? I only thought buffered adapters where needed is say you were plugging directly into a monitor (no GBS 8220)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
I've bought all this but not had time to put it together. Wonder how this compares to OSSC?
I have an ossc on loan next weekend so I'll find out soon!
RetroManCave Another video?
It will be used to showcase a system and some live streaming yes
Snail free electronic components - always a bonus 😉
Vert interesting video. I have the same adapter for my Amiga.
Cheapest hack I've seen in a while. And effective!
Hm... Do you think such cheap shielding would work for my Gameboy Zero somehow? I'm getting lots of noise and weird moving scan lines and this looks interesting
I don't know what your GBZ looks like on the inside, but i think it's more likely to be a case of component or cable damage that needs to be repaired rather than something that can be helped with a bit of extra shielding, but you'll only know for certain after you try. What screen do you use and what connection between screen and zero do you use? composite or parallel?
0:54 Those look suspiciously like the axial inductors!
hi will this work with a a2000 and a a600 thank you
Awesome....question.....would this hack be any better than my Scart lead/scart to hdmi converter ?
Bit late now....I have a Indivision ecs on pre order.
Amiga Dude Furia A600 did you ever get your ordered preinvison board?
uhhh Spaceballs - State of the Art. Classic!
Tape isnt enough, you must connect one end to the ground for it to work.
I alway like a snail free computer ;)
Great video as always, thank you for sharing this knowlegde.
I use one of these on my Neo Geo 4 slot, would Aluminium tape work or does it have to be copper ?
give it a try, if you place some tape on the traces and apply pressure without taking the backing off the tape you should soon have an idea, just be careful not to knock component legs poking through the board and short them.
Before I do I will look if I actually need it. When do you plan to look at your MVS-2 ? I made my own bartop based on a Neo Geo with a real MVS-4 slot and also replicated the mini marquee system with an arduino so it shows what game is selected.
That sounds cool. I hope to look at it soon as I now have a replacement bios and some other bits to investigate
A Unibios ? the caps on the sound section are known to go bad, cartridge slots can also have problems. It's best to test with no cartridge and look for the white boxes at first.
Yes I have a Unibios. Current problem is the well known Calendar problem but the Unibios should let me get past that and delve deeper
Awesome video
Nice stuff, GBS-8220 is compatible with NES or something related to old consoles too?
Yskar Nebula it will take an RGB input but not composite. You might be better off with a hdmi upscaler it depends on what monitor you want to use
RetroManCave i saw those yuv composite and i taught they were used for imput and the RGB for output.
And i intend to use an monitor with RGB imput just like yours. (And sorry for the bad English, im Brazilian)
Good CRT tvs are quite rare nowdays on Brazil, and well preserved old CRT monitors are way more common.
How do you get so clued up on computers as retro man cave?
Kevin Jones keep breaking things until they break less :D also do check out other channels I mention in videos there are loads of people I look up to on YT and learn lots from
very nice video..
Whats the name and where can I buy that handy plexiglass stand?
www.display-stands-uk.com/contents/en-uk/p1622.html
RetroManCave thank you!
Website seems to not work now
Why didn't you just connect to the vga port?
I did and I got nothing from it
HD15 (vga) works with csync on pin13. Just select right mode
PCTonttu hmm no joy. I may have another play some time but it works, and you can't use the adjustment pots through the vga port (apparantly)
RetroManCave sorry i wasn't specific and quite blunt. The head you plugged your cable into looked to share traces with the vga port next to it. Thought it might be possible to bypass rewiring one end of the cable.
Why not just a metal case that is grounded?
I found that I had to have very close contact with the copper tape flush to the pcb for the effect
Because it's not external interference that's the issue, it's crosstalk between the lines, that a little bit of capacitance that the tape introduces sufficiently suppresses.
Siana Gearz ah, I didn't think of that. So if they used a 3 or 4 layer pcb and ran the signals on the internal layers with ground fill on the outer layers.
4 layer is indeed often done specifically for crosstalk suppression and EMI reasons.
Normally you flood the inner layers with fill, and they sit on a relatively thick core quite close to the surface, and route your signal and data on the outer layers and it usually works just as well but is much more reliable to manufacture and easier to test and inspect! The ground goes component side inner layer and the vcc fill goes opposite side inner layer. Additionally whatever place you have left over on the surface, you via stitch it to the ground layer.
You can also stick some separators into a noisy bus and stitch them through. Remember when they introduced 80-conductor IDE cables to improve reliability and push frequencies beyond 33 MHz? It simply had a ground wire between each signal wire.
If you want to further mod it, if you have an arduino you can improve things possibly further, a friend of mine has been working on a project which may be worth checking out :) github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control
Nice bit of State of the Art at the end there :) Love that demo
Many thanks for the link, I had avoided buying one of these devices due to the reported issues with 50Hz input and output but that project looks like it can fix the input problems and provide a 576p50 output.
No problem man :)
I've attempted to create a simple DAC from a the "pull-both" schematic (sites.google.com/site/h2obsession/_/rsrc/1400341943224/CBM/C128/images/pull2-rgba-xor.gif) to convert from RGBi CGA signal from an Eagle IBM-compatible, but it didn't work. I don't trust my soldering, so I can't tell where I failed, the GBS-8200 just doesn't find the signal. I don't have an oscilloscope so I can't tell if a signal is even being produced from the computer. I know there is a CGA DAC I can buy but It is $35 and the my original solution would of just cost $4 if it had worked. I don't really care if the colors are a bit off considering the monitor that came with Eagle was monochrome green, when it was working.
4:18 pick up the phone!
You can recycle copper scraps with your e-waste, can't you?
Great video, I wondered if you'd heard of this project based on the GBS-8220 replacing it with custom software, it looks great!? I'm planning on having a go at making one myself adding a SCART to RGB adapter with a sync stripper chip. Anyway reading up on this project it seems the noise has been fixed in the software... github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control
Had dust on my screen and the dots wouldn’t go away!!!