I'm working on my second kit today, I used a screwdriver and hammer instead of a chain breaker, but I learned something when you said turn your fish mouth backwards on it also I'm having some trouble lining up the chain on this one the 80 cc motor didn't fit to good so I think it's the angle of the motor, it's getting late and I have work at 5;30 am so I'm resting and watching your videos so I can do a little better install, my last one was great I rode it all around Richmond for a year and when I got a motorcycle I passed the bike on to a homeless man but now I have no ride again and a 2 hr bicycle ride to work each day, so once I get it installed I'll be so happy. Thank you for sharing this I love your attention to detail and appreciate this alot, God bless you mister 🤠
Very thoroughly explained I have built on the UPS of around 20 to 25 bikes and after watching some of your videos and tips it just made it a little not easier but a different approach which are very thorough and that's all I can say about it I know where you're at it's cold I am in the state of Florida this is the ideal state for bike riding I do not have a driver's license I use this bike everyday usually riding around 50 to 75 miles a day I estimate I have over at least 2,000 miles on my motor I use a 40 to 1 ratio from cradle to grave and it's never failed me neither of my bikes that I've built for anyone has ever come back because of something I did it's usually something they did order tires wore out they're intimidated by changing the tires and I charge $15 a tire to change and you provide the tire and tube I build the bikes it's up to you to order your own kit and a man's beach cruiser with room in the frame and I will assemble it for $150 I think that's a very fair deal and if something were wrong and it was my fault I would definitely fix it for free I have tons of parts I have motors that are so ported with window pissed-ins and you got to use a read valve if not I will get crosstalk my bikes are fast my personal black bike is a felt faker frame and an 80cc motor ported HP carburetor I have a big pipe on it I also as well use the boost bottle using the boost bottle you need to set up the boost bottle and then tune your motor if you turn around that boost bottle it'll work properly I'm just saying food for thought everybody take care of be safe God bless
Always nice to hear from another motorized bike builder.. 👍It does get cold here but people still ride them, although some folks don't have a DL you still got to get to work, the store ect. People seem to appreciate a cold ride over a long slow pedal everywhere...🚴♂ I feel what you're saying about people returning after they go out & abuse their bike & act like it just happened all by itself, unfortunately if you're in this business you're always going to have those certain people. 😭😭I personally don't get into making the bikes go really fast, not because I don't have the knowledge but because most folks that ride these don't have a DL & here in Illinois if they catch you flying around they will impound your bike & possibly take you to jail for no DL or at least give you a day in court so to help people practice a little self-control & have less problems I stay with standard bike builds.. Anyway, keep doing what you're doing because it actually helps people that otherwise couldn't get around as easy.. 🚴♂🚴♂Take care..
With the aluminum sprocket mount you can move the chain alignment from left to right, when you first assemble your chain, it is stiff & will limber up after you're first test ride so you will have to readjust it for the final touch before you're ready to get out & ride, that would be the time to adjust it for being centered & adjust chain slack. If you're using the rag joint that comes with the kit then yes you are correct you can flip the sprocket to move your chain closer to the frame or to move it closer to the tire if needed, with that rag joint mount that's the only left to right adjustment you will have.. 🚴♂🚴♂
My question is how do you know if your chain is desired length before you put the chain tensioner on there because I don't want to shorten too much or have it too long that's where I'm stuck at
Place the chain on the bike just like in the video, mark where you think the chain should be shortened with a marker of drop of paint.. Then remove the chain & practice taking out a link on the end ( you will have plenty of extra chain for this) I say to practice this step because you have to learn to break the chain on the roller side of a link if you don't you won't be able to put the chain back together. If you look at my video where the MasterLink is connecting the chain you'll see what I'm talking about, the two roller ends of the chain is what the master link goes through. It's better to give yourself an extra link or two when you decide to break it where you think it should go & even if you have to shorten it again for the final time it's better to put in the extra work than find out you nade it too short OR you have shortened it at a spot that leave you an open link with no roller in it.. I hope this helps 🙏🙏. It's kind of difficult to explain this part without being there in person with you.
It sounds to me like something isn't quite lined up.. If you're using the rag joint that comes with the engine kit to mount the rear sprocket, that's usually the problem.. 😪 With the chain off pick up the rear of the bike & spin the rear wheel & look at the sprocket, I'll bet the sprocket wobbles when you spin it, that's usually the problem when the chain keeps falling off & or breaking. I personally quit using them & started using the Aluminum rear sprocket mount & have never had a problem with any chain since.. I'll send you a link on what I'm talking about, it should help you diagnose your problem & help you understand what I'm trying to explain.. 👍
This should help explain the problem you're having with your chain & how to check if this is the problem you're having.. th-cam.com/video/5gUbA7JQpv4/w-d-xo.html
I feel your pain about breaking the chain,, 🤬🤬The two main things I have discovered over the years is to make sure the chain is straight & not touching anything & If your running a coaster brake rear wheel, get rid of that rag joint set up that comes in the kit & replace it with a Aluminum Hub Sprocket Mount. I'm posting a video today about a brand I use on people's bikes & the best parts about it is that it fits your standard sprocket & fits the hub perfectly every time, no filing or grinding to make it fit.. I personally run these on my bike & I haven't had any chain problems with the chain for years.. 👍👍🏍🏍
I am mounting a 80cc motor to my chopper bicycle and after hours of struggling to get the motor finally mounted to my frame now my chain and engine and sprocket alinement is off and my chain is rubbing against my tire... -.- I don't know what to do now... trying to come up with a solution since I can't really move the engine it is pretty much where it needs to sit.
Unfortunately, I didn't make a step-by-step build video on this bike 😥😥The best I can do for you is share this video & hopefully you can see something on this build that will help you on yours. I built my own engine mount, but you can also buy them on Amazon. Everything else I used the stock parts that came in the kit, the only other thing I had to fabricate myself was the gas tank mount, I took two pieces of flat strap steel drilled holes in them for the tank mount studs & tac-welded them to the frame, but if you don't have access to a welder, you can use self-tapping screws to mount them to the bikes frame.. I hope info. helps you get you're bike going.. 🚴♂🚴♂
I've seen a few people do that & it seems to work ok.. 👍On my personal bikes I like to use a spring tensioner that mounts on the frame, it not only keeps the chain snug at all times, but it keeps it in line when the chain gets a little slack from use, also it makes it so much easier the change the back tire.. Stay safe out there. 🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes ride hard three times. Then remove a link. Haven't had an issue. The tensioner always migrated and the stock one the plastic wheel popped off and snapped the chain which almost tore my artery in my leg open. What are your thoughts on the tensioner that bolts to the clutch arm cover?
People don't take into consideration the engine is basically a giant vibrator. If it wasn't loose before it will be. I have more loctite than metal on mine.
@@nygivenpoint I'm personally not a big fan of those, they don't seem to keep enough tension on the chain where it needs it which is in the middle of the bottom of the chain when you're riding.
the sprocket outer toothed edge is closer to the center of the rim which changes the alignment of the chain in referrence to the front engine sprocket. Which side of the sprocket should face out?
I understand what your saying, although the facing direction of the sprocket depends on your rear tire clearance & frame clearance from your drive chain. That way it gives you a small option if your particular bikes chain is to close on one side or the other when using that rag joint that comes with the kit. The only way to get a more simple way to install or get easier adjustment left or right is to use an aluminum hub adapter for your rear sprocket .
Can you explain your problem a little more Indepth & perhaps we can figure out what the issue is.. Are you saying the drive sprocket on the engine won't turn or when the chain is on the front & rear sprocket as it's supposed to be it's not turning freely.. ??
No,it should slide on the intake all the way up & seal against the carb. If you do find that you have an air leak you can use an o ring seal if necessary.. Just make sure you use a neoprene O ring & not just a plain rubber one, fuel will eat up a rubber one..
In some cases, we have had to grind the ear of the rear engine mount flush with the nut, most of the time if you have to do this it will give you just enough clearance. Also make sure your chain does not have a lot of extra slack.
Hi, i am on step 1. Installing sprocket. From Your expierience is there any difference of installing sprocket the way You did or flipped so the chain gose closer to frame? This looks like lots of screwing and i dont want to mess at this point.
Unfortunately it varies from different types of bikes, so sometimes you have no choice but to mount the sprocket & install the wheel & see if you have the correct clearances....If not, then you have to remove all those bolts flip it around & try again...I know it's not fun to do but that's just what you have to do in some cases.. Some times you get lucky & the first time it comes out right.. I hope today is your lucky day..!!!
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Thanks, i was reading comments that there is one way of installing sprocket. So i did as majority did and the chain was to close to tire. So i unscrued and fliiperd arround. It is not so to bad to do so. Then i had problem of space between chain at and frame so i gave more spacers between frame. Now y rame is wider then V shape and i think i will look for som longer bolts and some spacers to install engine. Thanks for Your comment.
@@Artur-ck5xe There is different engine mounts available for the front of the engine that might help you.. google : Fat tube engine mount for motorized bicycle.. You might find what you need to save you the trouble of trying to shim something up & having problems in the future..
Sometimes they don't get it tight at the factory & after a few rides it will fall out in the bottom of the float bowl & when that happens your stranded & pouring fuel out the air cleaner.. So I go through every single Carb & take the time to check it so that doesn't happen to anyone who gets one of my bikes..🚴♀️
For the life of me I can't get the slack out of my chain I took a link out and got it nice and tight but wasn't able to put the pulley back on so had to add the link back so I repositioned the engine and same thing please help
I understand what you're going through. Every bike for whatever reason is different when it come to this. having said that: there is no one certain spot that it has to be, in the video this tensioner assembly is a little past the middle looking at it from the side view but you can place it a little more to the right ( closer to the sprocket if need be) or move it back ( to the left ) closer toward the tire if the chain in a little tighter. If you're chain has a lot of slack & you need to move it more toward the rear sprocket just be careful that you have good spoke clearance because the closer you move it toward the rear the closer the tensioner gets to the spokes when moving it back.. 👍Lastly when you do find that good spot, drill a small hole through the tensioner bracket & the bikes frame & place a small bolt through it to help ensure that just in case the tensioner tries to move inward to the wheel it can't get into the spokes, I personally use a steel rivet but a small bolt will work also. ( It doesn't have to be a Hugh bolt & nut ) If I can help you any further feel free to ask. 👍👍🚴♂🚴♂
I thought it may have been a little confusing about the drilling & bolting of the tensioner bracket through the frame, so as an example of what I was talking about is in this video link @ 2:03 on the time line and you can see on the bracket where I drilled it & put the steel rivet.. Once again you can use a small bolt, I realized not everyone has a rivet gun lying around.. Here's the link.. th-cam.com/video/iSKPzFdp7Xk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T4mTbjTyUD_-B_2w
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes I'm not having trouble with the tensioner my issue is more with the chain itself I uploaded a video to show and better explain my problem if you could please watch it and tell me what you think is really appreciate it I will comment the link as soon as it's done uploading
If I understand you correctly, when you release the clutch lever to engage the engine it locks up the bike & the bike won't roll & the engine doesn't turn over ? 1st take the spark plug out & try it, if the engine turns over then it could be a spark plug that is too long & hits the top of the piston & stops the engine from turning over. 2nd Take the clutch lever cover off & make sure the chain isn't jammed up in that area.. 3rd If the chain is ok in that area, remove the right side cover & try to figure out what part is locking up ( The clutch & flywheel or the drive gear ( small front gear). Hopefully one of these inspections will reveal the problem..👍🚴♂️
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes .....I just mounted the engine on the frame, no clutch cables hooked up yet. But when I push the throw-out arm..which should disengage the clutch....I can't freely spin the engine cog. I heard that if you do this, it'll spin freely. Is this correct?
@@jwvgoethe77 Oh OK.. yeah it's probably just fine some times the clutch doesn't release when you first move the arm by hand when they are brand new..It's a simple fix just move the lever inward like your applying the clutch and roll the wheel back & forth (some times with a little force) & it should break loose & turn freely. It does this because the pads sometime stick to the pressure plate from sitting..
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes my drive sprocket keeps making the chain ride and making the back wheel lock any tips please please let me know . I’ve had a half finished bike with me for weeks . With or without the clutch the drive sprocket locks up . (New engine kit )
Sometimes you might need to remove a few links, you don't need a lot of extra chain flopping around when your riding & it will make it easier to adjust.👍🚴♂️
I'm working on my second kit today, I used a screwdriver and hammer instead of a chain breaker, but I learned something when you said turn your fish mouth backwards on it also I'm having some trouble lining up the chain on this one the 80 cc motor didn't fit to good so I think it's the angle of the motor, it's getting late and I have work at 5;30 am so I'm resting and watching your videos so I can do a little better install, my last one was great I rode it all around Richmond for a year and when I got a motorcycle I passed the bike on to a homeless man but now I have no ride again and a 2 hr bicycle ride to work each day, so once I get it installed I'll be so happy. Thank you for sharing this I love your attention to detail and appreciate this alot, God bless you mister 🤠
Thank You 🙏 I'm glad if any of my videos helped you with your build.. 🚴♂🚴♂
You did so good on this because you talk so clear
Thank You.. 🙏🙏 I hope the video helped you.
This video is a lifesaver! Thank you so much for being so in depth and detailed !
Very thoroughly explained I have built on the UPS of around 20 to 25 bikes and after watching some of your videos and tips it just made it a little not easier but a different approach which are very thorough and that's all I can say about it I know where you're at it's cold I am in the state of Florida this is the ideal state for bike riding I do not have a driver's license I use this bike everyday usually riding around 50 to 75 miles a day I estimate I have over at least 2,000 miles on my motor I use a 40 to 1 ratio from cradle to grave and it's never failed me neither of my bikes that I've built for anyone has ever come back because of something I did it's usually something they did order tires wore out they're intimidated by changing the tires and I charge $15 a tire to change and you provide the tire and tube I build the bikes it's up to you to order your own kit and a man's beach cruiser with room in the frame and I will assemble it for $150 I think that's a very fair deal and if something were wrong and it was my fault I would definitely fix it for free I have tons of parts I have motors that are so ported with window pissed-ins and you got to use a read valve if not I will get crosstalk my bikes are fast my personal black bike is a felt faker frame and an 80cc motor ported HP carburetor I have a big pipe on it I also as well use the boost bottle using the boost bottle you need to set up the boost bottle and then tune your motor if you turn around that boost bottle it'll work properly I'm just saying food for thought everybody take care of be safe God bless
Always nice to hear from another motorized bike builder.. 👍It does get cold here but people still ride them, although some folks don't have a DL you still got to get to work, the store ect. People seem to appreciate a cold ride over a long slow pedal everywhere...🚴♂ I feel what you're saying about people returning after they go out & abuse their bike & act like it just happened all by itself, unfortunately if you're in this business you're always going to have those certain people. 😭😭I personally don't get into making the bikes go really fast, not because I don't have the knowledge but because most folks that ride these don't have a DL & here in Illinois if they catch you flying around they will impound your bike & possibly take you to jail for no DL or at least give you a day in court so to help people practice a little self-control & have less problems I stay with standard bike builds.. Anyway, keep doing what you're doing because it actually helps people that otherwise couldn't get around as easy.. 🚴♂🚴♂Take care..
You sound like the Dude!! Thanks boss for all the help!
I'm glad this helped you with your build. 🙏🙏
Best video yet. thanks
I'm glad you liked it..I hope some part of it helped you with your bike.
Very helpful video buddy im new to building and this is helpful thanks
I'm glad the videos helped you, that's why I did the three part series of DIY to at least give people the general idea of how to get up & riding..
The little rubber bit that came on the carb from shipping is a dust cover for throttle cable btw
What little rubber bit are you speaking of ?
Both my carbs came with a rubber nipple thing over the cable adjustment screw on carb. It looks like you had it on the glove at 15:35
@@alaskangurilla3497 I may have slipped it off for the video..🤷♂
To shorten the chain I used a grinder to grind the pin then punched it out with a small nail hope that helps someone
That chain looks dangerously close to the tire, wouldn't it be a better idea to flip the rear sprocket so the gears are closer to the frame side?
With the aluminum sprocket mount you can move the chain alignment from left to right, when you first assemble your chain, it is stiff & will limber up after you're first test ride so you will have to readjust it for the final touch before you're ready to get out & ride, that would be the time to adjust it for being centered & adjust chain slack. If you're using the rag joint that comes with the kit then yes you are correct you can flip the sprocket to move your chain closer to the frame or to move it closer to the tire if needed, with that rag joint mount that's the only left to right adjustment you will have.. 🚴♂🚴♂
My question is how do you know if your chain is desired length before you put the chain tensioner on there because I don't want to shorten too much or have it too long that's where I'm stuck at
Place the chain on the bike just like in the video, mark where you think the chain should be shortened with a marker of drop of paint.. Then remove the chain & practice taking out a link on the end ( you will have plenty of extra chain for this) I say to practice this step because you have to learn to break the chain on the roller side of a link if you don't you won't be able to put the chain back together. If you look at my video where the MasterLink is connecting the chain you'll see what I'm talking about, the two roller ends of the chain is what the master link goes through. It's better to give yourself an extra link or two when you decide to break it where you think it should go & even if you have to shorten it again for the final time it's better to put in the extra work than find out you nade it too short OR you have shortened it at a spot that leave you an open link with no roller in it.. I hope this helps 🙏🙏. It's kind of difficult to explain this part without being there in person with you.
What should I do if my chain keeps breaking or falling off and is it supposed to be pretty loose or tight on there
It sounds to me like something isn't quite lined up.. If you're using the rag joint that comes with the engine kit to mount the rear sprocket, that's usually the problem.. 😪 With the chain off pick up the rear of the bike & spin the rear wheel & look at the sprocket, I'll bet the sprocket wobbles when you spin it, that's usually the problem when the chain keeps falling off & or breaking. I personally quit using them & started using the Aluminum rear sprocket mount & have never had a problem with any chain since.. I'll send you a link on what I'm talking about, it should help you diagnose your problem & help you understand what I'm trying to explain.. 👍
This should help explain the problem you're having with your chain & how to check if this is the problem you're having.. th-cam.com/video/5gUbA7JQpv4/w-d-xo.html
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes thank you so much I’m gonna try it out
I have the engine the chain just broke on me and I’m trying really carefully to install another chain on it again so I don’t get stranded
I feel your pain about breaking the chain,, 🤬🤬The two main things I have discovered over the years is to make sure the chain is straight & not touching anything & If your running a coaster brake rear wheel, get rid of that rag joint set up that comes in the kit & replace it with a Aluminum Hub Sprocket Mount. I'm posting a video today about a brand I use on people's bikes & the best parts about it is that it fits your standard sprocket & fits the hub perfectly every time, no filing or grinding to make it fit.. I personally run these on my bike & I haven't had any chain problems with the chain for years.. 👍👍🏍🏍
I am mounting a 80cc motor to my chopper bicycle and after hours of struggling to get the motor finally mounted to my frame now my chain and engine and sprocket alinement is off and my chain is rubbing against my tire... -.- I don't know what to do now... trying to come up with a solution since I can't really move the engine it is pretty much where it needs to sit.
Unfortunately, I didn't make a step-by-step build video on this bike 😥😥The best I can do for you is share this video & hopefully you can see something on this build that will help you on yours. I built my own engine mount, but you can also buy them on Amazon. Everything else I used the stock parts that came in the kit, the only other thing I had to fabricate myself was the gas tank mount, I took two pieces of flat strap steel drilled holes in them for the tank mount studs & tac-welded them to the frame, but if you don't have access to a welder, you can use self-tapping screws to mount them to the bikes frame.. I hope info. helps you get you're bike going.. 🚴♂🚴♂
My tensioner about killed me,it face planted me!
Did it get sucked into the spokes..??
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes it locked up I went flying like superman,lol
I got rid of the tensioner and shortened the chain. Hasnt jumped off yet
I've seen a few people do that & it seems to work ok.. 👍On my personal bikes I like to use a spring tensioner that mounts on the frame, it not only keeps the chain snug at all times, but it keeps it in line when the chain gets a little slack from use, also it makes it so much easier the change the back tire.. Stay safe out there. 🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes ride hard three times. Then remove a link. Haven't had an issue. The tensioner always migrated and the stock one the plastic wheel popped off and snapped the chain which almost tore my artery in my leg open. What are your thoughts on the tensioner that bolts to the clutch arm cover?
I'm tempted to have a buddy weld a tensioner in place but don't have a clue how that works with bike frame metal. Bikes are chromoloy or something.
People don't take into consideration the engine is basically a giant vibrator. If it wasn't loose before it will be. I have more loctite than metal on mine.
@@nygivenpoint I'm personally not a big fan of those, they don't seem to keep enough tension on the chain where it needs it which is in the middle of the bottom of the chain when you're riding.
the sprocket outer toothed edge is closer to the center of the rim which changes the alignment of the chain in referrence to the front engine sprocket. Which side of the sprocket should face out?
I understand what your saying, although the facing direction of the sprocket depends on your rear tire clearance & frame clearance from your drive chain. That way it gives you a small option if your particular bikes chain is to close on one side or the other when using that rag joint that comes with the kit. The only way to get a more simple way to install or get easier adjustment left or right is to use an aluminum hub adapter for your rear sprocket .
I have the same bike but mt drive sprocket won't move freely and I don't know how to fix it
Can you explain your problem a little more Indepth & perhaps we can figure out what the issue is.. Are you saying the drive sprocket on the engine won't turn or when the chain is on the front & rear sprocket as it's supposed to be it's not turning freely.. ??
Is there a gasket or o-ring within the carb before mounting to the intake manifold?
No,it should slide on the intake all the way up & seal against the carb. If you do find that you have an air leak you can use an o ring seal if necessary.. Just make sure you use a neoprene O ring & not just a plain rubber one, fuel will eat up a rubber one..
Gasket
What size chain
what to do if the chain is hitting the engine mount slightly?
In some cases, we have had to grind the ear of the rear engine mount flush with the nut, most of the time if you have to do this it will give you just enough clearance. Also make sure your chain does not have a lot of extra slack.
Hi, i am on step 1. Installing sprocket. From Your expierience is there any difference of installing sprocket the way You did or flipped so the chain gose closer to frame? This looks like lots of screwing and i dont want to mess at this point.
Unfortunately it varies from different types of bikes, so sometimes you have no choice but to mount the sprocket & install the wheel & see if you have the correct clearances....If not, then you have to remove all those bolts flip it around & try again...I know it's not fun to do but that's just what you have to do in some cases.. Some times you get lucky & the first time it comes out right.. I hope today is your lucky day..!!!
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Thanks, i was reading comments that there is one way of installing sprocket. So i did as majority did and the chain was to close to tire. So i unscrued and fliiperd arround. It is not so to bad to do so.
Then i had problem of space between chain at and frame so i gave more spacers between frame. Now y rame is wider then V shape and i think i will look for som longer bolts and some spacers to install engine. Thanks for Your comment.
@@Artur-ck5xe There is different engine mounts available for the front of the engine that might help you.. google : Fat tube engine mount for motorized bicycle.. You might find what you need to save you the trouble of trying to shim something up & having problems in the future..
did the metering-jet screw fall out of the threaded area?
Sometimes they don't get it tight at the factory & after a few rides it will fall out in the bottom of the float bowl & when that happens your stranded & pouring fuel out the air cleaner.. So I go through every single Carb & take the time to check it so that doesn't happen to anyone who gets one of my bikes..🚴♀️
For the life of me I can't get the slack out of my chain I took a link out and got it nice and tight but wasn't able to put the pulley back on so had to add the link back so I repositioned the engine and same thing please help
I understand what you're going through. Every bike for whatever reason is different when it come to this. having said that: there is no one certain spot that it has to be, in the video this tensioner assembly is a little past the middle looking at it from the side view but you can place it a little more to the right ( closer to the sprocket if need be) or move it back ( to the left ) closer toward the tire if the chain in a little tighter. If you're chain has a lot of slack & you need to move it more toward the rear sprocket just be careful that you have good spoke clearance because the closer you move it toward the rear the closer the tensioner gets to the spokes when moving it back.. 👍Lastly when you do find that good spot, drill a small hole through the tensioner bracket & the bikes frame & place a small bolt through it to help ensure that just in case the tensioner tries to move inward to the wheel it can't get into the spokes, I personally use a steel rivet but a small bolt will work also. ( It doesn't have to be a Hugh bolt & nut ) If I can help you any further feel free to ask. 👍👍🚴♂🚴♂
I thought it may have been a little confusing about the drilling & bolting of the tensioner bracket through the frame, so as an example of what I was talking about is in this video link @ 2:03 on the time line and you can see on the bracket where I drilled it & put the steel rivet.. Once again you can use a small bolt, I realized not everyone has a rivet gun lying around.. Here's the link.. th-cam.com/video/iSKPzFdp7Xk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T4mTbjTyUD_-B_2w
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes I'm not having trouble with the tensioner my issue is more with the chain itself I uploaded a video to show and better explain my problem if you could please watch it and tell me what you think is really appreciate it I will comment the link as soon as it's done uploading
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes th-cam.com/video/rrEWNgbirnU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fe408If6zSlDYdp4
when I engage the throw-out arm the cog won't spin freely. Any ideas?
If I understand you correctly, when you release the clutch lever to engage the engine it locks up the bike & the bike won't roll & the engine doesn't turn over ? 1st take the spark plug out & try it, if the engine turns over then it could be a spark plug that is too long & hits the top of the piston & stops the engine from turning over. 2nd Take the clutch lever cover off & make sure the chain isn't jammed up in that area.. 3rd If the chain is ok in that area, remove the right side cover & try to figure out what part is locking up ( The clutch & flywheel or the drive gear ( small front gear). Hopefully one of these inspections will reveal the problem..👍🚴♂️
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes .....I just mounted the engine on the frame, no clutch cables hooked up yet. But when I push the throw-out arm..which should disengage the clutch....I can't freely spin the engine cog. I heard that if you do this, it'll spin freely. Is this correct?
@@jwvgoethe77 Oh OK.. yeah it's probably just fine some times the clutch doesn't release when you first move the arm by hand when they are brand new..It's a simple fix just move the lever inward like your applying the clutch and roll the wheel back & forth (some times with a little force) & it should break loose & turn freely. It does this because the pads sometime stick to the pressure plate from sitting..
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes .....That's really good to know. Thanks for your explanations....greatly appreciated.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes my drive sprocket keeps making the chain ride and making the back wheel lock any tips please please let me know . I’ve had a half finished bike with me for weeks . With or without the clutch the drive sprocket locks up . (New engine kit )
do u need to shorten the chain
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Sometimes you might need to remove a few links, you don't need a lot of extra chain flopping around when your riding & it will make it easier to adjust.👍🚴♂️
So true!