I have one. I appreciate this video because I have yet to install it. I have a 48cc BBR Tuning on a 26" Switz Cruz bike by Bikeberry. I highly recommend the combination. When I built it your analog speedometer said I was going 42 mph. I installed your vapor recovery tube and your Vapor Expansion Muffler and Saw an increase to 55mph. Which I must claim / admit, scared the crap out of me.
I got my Arch tensioner before I got my engine kit, Mainly because I read too many horror stories about the tensioners that came with the kits. I've built 2 bikes so far and used the stock tensioners on the first, Which was a friends bike. One bent first time I used it, The other spring tensioner pulled the baring right out of it and it was sapose to be the tougher one. I have used the Arch on mine from the beginning and never had an issue accept the cheap bolts that come with the kit. I added a tensioner to the frame and connected it to the bolt to keep it from bending and its Bullet proof! Also welded my Arch to the frame, Just because I could.
Hey your videos are real clear , nicely explain and right to the point. Great job. I have a question the arch tensioner I got from Bikeberry has a 180 degrees curve at only one of the ends. Where does that curve goes on top or bottom. Also has two holes at each end of the arch chain tensioner .
The problem I had with the tensioner that came with the motor drove into the spokes. While watching this video i would agree that it would solve the headache of a tensioner going into the spokes and messing another rim up.
Safety Tip. Do not use drill bits as punches and hit them with hammers as seen here. They are extremely brittle and will shatter and send razor sharp metal splinters into things like your eyeballs.
I find putting rubber from an old inner tube around there and then torquing down on it real hard it doesn't slip either.. and it gives a little spring action. So there's not so much slamming
also, did you know they make these things called "chain breakers" that eliminate the need to slice open your finger on the bandsander and makes the entire job so much easier? might wanna look into it
you can put the chain on in a way simpler way. lock the clutch, thread the chain onto the engine sprocket, turn the sprocket with your finger and if your chain gets stuck on the sprocket cover just gently fish it out with a 2mm alen key, I use this method when I ride thru a part of the city where I cant use the engine (next to police stations and in more densely populated regions). When im in the countryside I just putt the chain on and go. There is one small catch, when taking the chain off in this way it sometimes gets stuck against the cover so I always have an emergency 6mm (I think) alen on me to take off the cover if necesary, this happened to me only once tho.
These arch chain tensioner are a safer alternative to the dangerous stock tensioner. To me they do not address the issue of holding the roller from being angled improperly. The idea of keeping the chain roller from being angled imperfectly is unresolved. Yet, there's more alternative to tweek the arch so the chain rolls straight over the roller. In my opinion, the arch is a rather ugly attachment and there exists more perfect methods for of maintaining drive. (No chain tensioner, half links, and possibly the use of an engine mounted tensioner to account for the expected chain stretch.) My advice would be to delete the stock chain and install a hardened (racing) chain. It's much safer and doesn't stretch as much. Less need for constant adjustment. I've seen stock chains go out of adjustment after one or two rides, and when you think it couldn't stretch more, it does. It's not a frustration free set up. Hard chain and proper tension can resolve drive issues and restore worry free operation without attaching an ugly arch that appears to be useful for say attaching an alternator to a car engine.
Mine blew second ride lol chains scrap too break it with the pliers lol I ordered a 420 oring dirt bike chain cost 50bucks not 8bucks like that cheap one lol the hardware these engines come with is cheap it's like it's more or less to get the rideable and start changing to better more suitable parts great for a kid to learn with definitely wish I had one growing up but if I buy another I'm just ordering the engine and I'm gonna get the sprockets and chain from Kawasaki or Honda dirt bikes gas tank I have a few small ones from Honda cr 60cc I wasn't aware of all the design flaws and cheap hardware this was my first build expected it to be a little more durable like a real dirt bike lol could of bought 3 more engine with all the messing around and finding out the. Bugs in these like no rubber mounts at all lol no wonder everything vibrates loose lol every two rides I fixed that with dirt bike rubber mounts and locktite the exhaust is the thing comes loose once am awhile
Upgrade?? That should come stock with the motor kits... The tensioner/guide that the the kit comes with is bad injuries waiting to happen. Flops over into the spokes and the bike comes to a sudden stop. This should be stock, not considered an upgrade. Nonsense that the bikeberry company expects people to get hurt before they figure that out.
Bikeberry you guys are pretty pompous about these bike kits. Be honest for once. You should never use stock hardware that comes with any of the parts or kits you sell. Pulley tensioners are trash and a huge riding hazard. Tell them they need a frame that doesn't require a chain tension pulley. And not to trust any of the lead nuts and bolts to safely hold on the engine. Tell them they need rims better than the ones you sell while you're at it.
I have one. I appreciate this video because I have yet to install it. I have a 48cc BBR Tuning on a 26" Switz Cruz bike by Bikeberry. I highly recommend the combination. When I built it your analog speedometer said I was going 42 mph. I installed your vapor recovery tube and your Vapor Expansion Muffler and Saw an increase to 55mph. Which I must claim / admit, scared the crap out of me.
Wow! I hear you my man!
I got my Arch tensioner before I got my engine kit, Mainly because I read too many horror stories about the tensioners that came with the kits. I've built 2 bikes so far and used the stock tensioners on the first, Which was a friends bike. One bent first time I used it, The other spring tensioner pulled the baring right out of it and it was sapose to be the tougher one. I have used the Arch on mine from the beginning and never had an issue accept the cheap bolts that come with the kit. I added a tensioner to the frame and connected it to the bolt to keep it from bending and its Bullet proof! Also welded my Arch to the frame, Just because I could.
Hey your videos are real clear , nicely explain and right to the point. Great job. I have a question the arch tensioner I got from Bikeberry has a 180 degrees curve at only one of the ends. Where does that curve goes on top or bottom. Also has two holes at each end of the arch chain tensioner .
The problem I had with the tensioner that came with the motor drove into the spokes. While watching this video i would agree that it would solve the headache of a tensioner going into the spokes and messing another rim up.
Safety Tip. Do not use drill bits as punches and hit them with hammers as seen here. They are extremely brittle and will shatter and send razor sharp metal splinters into things like your eyeballs.
I would add do not shaved on the sides of your bolt, as recommended here, because it will give the nut less surface to hold onto.
I find putting rubber from an old inner tube around there and then torquing down on it real hard it doesn't slip either.. and it gives a little spring action. So there's not so much slamming
also, did you know they make these things called "chain breakers" that eliminate the need to slice open your finger on the bandsander and makes the entire job so much easier? might wanna look into it
your are the autority!!! great video
you can put the chain on in a way simpler way. lock the clutch, thread the chain onto the engine sprocket, turn the sprocket with your finger and if your chain gets stuck on the sprocket cover just gently fish it out with a 2mm alen key, I use this method when I ride thru a part of the city where I cant use the engine (next to police stations and in more densely populated regions). When im in the countryside I just putt the chain on and go. There is one small catch, when taking the chain off in this way it sometimes gets stuck against the cover so I always have an emergency 6mm (I think) alen on me to take off the cover if necesary, this happened to me only once tho.
Very very very excellent I like it
Very interesting and practical good job
Bought one! Thank you!
I've always went with a spring tensioner...but the arch seems TUFF!
Hey James, it’s definitely a hunk of reliably tough steel. 💪
You look alot like Oliver, that blonde chef who does gourmet foods xD
Chain breakers are cheap and come in handy
How good it is that you teach how to update the engine chain theory
I think adding a spring to that arch tensioner would be great since it keeps tension constant. #builditright
It is superior to kit unit because it doesn’t walk toward spokes
Hey can you show me how to put on the rear heavy duty bbr axle
Thanks for the question. I’ll have to look into that. Join our Facebook group so we can help you in there.
The problem I have is my foot hits the U-bolt , and I've used two wheels on pully
Ty for the tip
Thank you
Excellent
#BUILDITRIGHT/BUILDITBETTER Thanks Tony Taylor
These arch chain tensioner are a safer alternative to the dangerous stock tensioner. To me they do not address the issue of holding the roller from being angled improperly. The idea of keeping the chain roller from being angled imperfectly is unresolved. Yet, there's more alternative to tweek the arch so the chain rolls straight over the roller. In my opinion, the arch is a rather ugly attachment and there exists more perfect methods for of maintaining drive. (No chain tensioner, half links, and possibly the use of an engine mounted tensioner to account for the expected chain stretch.) My advice would be to delete the stock chain and install a hardened (racing) chain. It's much safer and doesn't stretch as much. Less need for constant adjustment. I've seen stock chains go out of adjustment after one or two rides, and when you think it couldn't stretch more, it does. It's not a frustration free set up. Hard chain and proper tension can resolve drive issues and restore worry free operation without attaching an ugly arch that appears to be useful for say attaching an alternator to a car engine.
For sure brother, those are topics I’ll tackle in future content. I appreciate the great insight here. Really helps.
0:20 I have that on my bike as well, though I am dubious about the mounting system, seems a bit flimsy?
Great giveway
Chain needs to be cut and attached first. And you don’t need to grind chain pin to remove
This guide really gave me a headache tbh
Sucks the arch tensioner that’s linked doesn’t fit this bike anymore.
good
You have a belt sander but you dont have a 10 dollar chain breaker?.
Mine blew second ride lol chains scrap too break it with the pliers lol I ordered a 420 oring dirt bike chain cost 50bucks not 8bucks like that cheap one lol the hardware these engines come with is cheap it's like it's more or less to get the rideable and start changing to better more suitable parts great for a kid to learn with definitely wish I had one growing up but if I buy another I'm just ordering the engine and I'm gonna get the sprockets and chain from Kawasaki or Honda dirt bikes gas tank I have a few small ones from Honda cr 60cc I wasn't aware of all the design flaws and cheap hardware this was my first build expected it to be a little more durable like a real dirt bike lol could of bought 3 more engine with all the messing around and finding out the. Bugs in these like no rubber mounts at all lol no wonder everything vibrates loose lol every two rides I fixed that with dirt bike rubber mounts and locktite the exhaust is the thing comes loose once am awhile
Upgrade?? That should come stock with the motor kits... The tensioner/guide that the the kit comes with is bad injuries waiting to happen. Flops over into the spokes and the bike comes to a sudden stop. This should be stock, not considered an upgrade. Nonsense that the bikeberry company expects people to get hurt before they figure that out.
That's a big clunky gear tensioner I mean chain
It is a beast for sure!
are you sure we want it to be in-line with the chain? seems counter-intuitive to me. haha! in line with the chain... OMG! whoi'da thunk it?
you know you can just push the pin oiut of a chain? no need to sand it down lol
Exactly I think he just like using the sander 🤣😂
#Builditright
2:44 this is where I am at currently with my new motor.
Takes another link out off camera
Everyone this video is not a tutorial
Bike berry is low key a joke
#builditright
So far i ain't seen you properly mount anything correctly!
You're not even keeping a straight chain in this video, wow
Sure it is Mr Pain. Plus there’s more to come my man.
Bikeberry you guys are pretty pompous about these bike kits. Be honest for once. You should never use stock hardware that comes with any of the parts or kits you sell. Pulley tensioners are trash and a huge riding hazard. Tell them they need a frame that doesn't require a chain tension pulley. And not to trust any of the lead nuts and bolts to safely hold on the engine. Tell them they need rims better than the ones you sell while you're at it.
#builditright