Well done Gary, I could just sit here and watch (the Bob Ross of Transmissions), eat Dinner and still learn something! It's just amazing to see how you're doing your thing, taking things apart, clean them up, making them better than before, some grease here some O-Rings there, using torque that feels good, and "just like magic", done is the Valvebody! Thank you very much!
I have done many transmissions and i still get freaked out whin i do a valve-body I had a bad time with one about thirty years ago and found the problem but still get the willy's going them i do not do them all the time just as a hobby to help others and like all other things whin done gives that feeling of wonderful satisfaction Thank You for your time to share your know how
Hi Gary, amazing video. Could you please give me more info about this red can sprayer?? Is it custom made o buyed ? I'm seeking for some like this a lot of time. Only saw a few little refillable bottles but too much expensive and last only a few seconds. Thanks in advance!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What is the blue top selenoid from Mercedes do or change, I'm looking to get a firm shift next time I drop the pan
Good morning Sir. I have been watching one of your videos that details the disassembly of a Ford C6 transmission. Quite honestly I need some advice from you. I’ve owned my early mustang 47 years now. I recently had to replace the gear selector shaft seal. The problem I have is confusion about how to position the park prawl actuator rod to then be able to reinstall the valve body. I did take photos prior to removing the valve body but I imagine those initial pictures didn’t focus enough on some of the details of linkage configuration. Also I noticed that the band wedges that hold the band together, one side, the side where the band adjustment screw is was not positioned properly so I loosened the screw and repositioned it as it should be. Question is how do you feel about torquing the screw to about 10 foot pounds then turning the band screw out 1 1/2 turns? Should there be slight slack on that wedge when it’s adjusted properly? I appreciate your input thank you
In my case the lock up cellinoide was changed but I still have a jerking when the convertor clutch lockes up. What can the problem be? I chasnged the whole oil and my shiftings are perfectly smooth.
I've already done transmission service and new conductor plate transmission works fine but every once in awhile when you come to a stop it will seem like it is in between gears and not want to shift I got the fancy kit when the conductor plate was replaced the O-rings and screens were replaced as well any idea what this would be
Gary - I have an opportunity on a NAG1 and the owner says a mechanic told him what's causing limp-in mode is 'Transmission Relay Sensor. It's the sensor that tells the car which gear it is in.' Does that sound like conductor plate? I assume this can be done with the transmission in the car? Thanks
Hey Gary. NAG1 in jeep commander with a 3.73 axle ratio. I have changed TCM, whole transmission, FDCM and conductor plate but there still remains a P0734 'incorrect gear ratio in 4th'. Any ideas? Could it be a solenoid issue or electrical connection? Do I need a specific VB from a jeep and not MB? I did change the rear speed sensors too since output speed is read off them. Note; there is slight bump when I engage Reverse.
@@GaryFerraro in liva data, i observe that it will engage 3-4 successfully for about 3 cycles. It goes all the way into 5th. A down shift to 4th after that is when i feel some flares in the transmission and it goes into limp mode. After that, 'current gear and target gear indicate SNA or signal not available'. When I get to traffic lights or some halt and try to set off again, the revs are high and the power is very low (probably stuck in gear 3 and slipping). Turning car off and starting off again resumes normal transmission and cycle repeats itself .
In addition; freeze data suggests that the trouble is triggered in 4th gear. There is no DTC of any solenoids indicating faulty. However, once i saw a p0778 while resetting ecus. It's only come once. I have been trying to fix this car for 2 years and used scan tools every time. Given that it appeared once out of atleast 50 diagnostic tests and never returned, I was curious if there could be something I'm missing along those lines.
I noticed at 25:03 you tore open a bag of O-rings for the shift solenoids. I looked online for such a kit but with no success I just replaced my CP using this video as a guide, but my transmission is still coming back with the same codes, plus now the converter seems to be slipping. I was meticulously clean too, but I did not split the VB, just swapped the CP, and both Line & Shift Pressure Solenoids - Blue Tops (updated part number). Do you think dissembling the VB, and thoroughly cleaning, replacing O-rings, and possibly the Lock up solenoid might be necessary?
@@GaryFerraro P220A, and P2200. These were read using Star. I did have the codes with the old blue tops in, same codes returned now with the updated blue tops. And now the trans slips if I goose it and goes back to limp mode
@@GaryFerraro Before replacement P220A: The speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short After replacement P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short P2561 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. (2. gear)
@GaryFerraro not all NAG1 valve body videos are the same. I appreciate the info to clean them. However what are the latest upgrades/Updates to fix common issues or to increase line pressure?
Well done Gary, I could just sit here and watch (the Bob Ross of Transmissions), eat Dinner and still learn something! It's just amazing to see how you're doing your thing, taking things apart, clean them up, making them better than before, some grease here some O-Rings there, using torque that feels good, and "just like magic", done is the Valvebody! Thank you very much!
Thank you Gary happy sunday
Gracias por este gran ejemplo de trabajo, limpio y bien ejecutado,saludos desde España
Thank you for all the knowledge! Greatly appreciate it
I have done many transmissions and i still get freaked out whin i do a valve-body I had a bad time with one about thirty years ago and found the problem but still get the willy's going them
i do not do them all the time just as a hobby to help others and like all other things whin done
gives that feeling of wonderful satisfaction Thank You for your time to share your know how
Thank you for your reply I appreciate it
Thank you so much ❤👍👌
Thank you.
Вы самый лучший
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👍
Hi Gary, amazing video. Could you please give me more info about this red can sprayer?? Is it custom made o buyed ? I'm seeking for some like this a lot of time. Only saw a few little refillable bottles but too much expensive and last only a few seconds. Thanks in advance!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What is the blue top selenoid from Mercedes do or change, I'm looking to get a firm shift next time I drop the pan
blue tops are for the E55 AMG only i believe, you can't replace them if a brown top is there. Firm shift maybe a shift kit
Hello Gary thanks for your help! What kind of stone is that you use?
Think i got from Amazon, fine one side course other side
Good morning Sir. I have been watching one of your videos that details the disassembly of a Ford C6 transmission. Quite honestly I need some advice from you. I’ve owned my early mustang 47 years now. I recently had to replace the gear selector shaft seal. The problem I have is confusion about how to position the park prawl actuator rod to then be able to reinstall the valve body. I did take photos prior to removing the valve body but I imagine those initial pictures didn’t focus enough on some of the details of linkage configuration. Also I noticed that the band wedges that hold the band together, one side, the side where the band adjustment screw is was not positioned properly so I loosened the screw and repositioned it as it should be. Question is how do you feel about torquing the screw to about 10 foot pounds then turning the band screw out 1 1/2 turns? Should there be slight slack on that wedge when it’s adjusted properly? I appreciate your input thank you
Thats fine, but after the 1 1/2 turns out make sure the band is not to tight, check that before you lock the nut down
In my case the lock up cellinoide was changed but I still have a jerking when the convertor clutch lockes up. What can the problem be? I chasnged the whole oil and my shiftings are perfectly smooth.
could be converter or maybe problem with valvebody. Any codes?
I've already done transmission service and new conductor plate transmission works fine but every once in awhile when you come to a stop it will seem like it is in between gears and not want to shift I got the fancy kit when the conductor plate was replaced the O-rings and screens were replaced as well any idea what this would be
adaptative software
Gary - I have an opportunity on a NAG1 and the owner says a mechanic told him what's causing limp-in mode is 'Transmission Relay Sensor. It's the sensor that tells the car which gear it is in.' Does that sound like conductor plate? I assume this can be done with the transmission in the car? Thanks
do you know what the code number and definition is? I would like to know that
What's the purpose of flat sanding both pieces of the VB? Is that necessary if you're changing a conductor plate?
Not if changing plate. I do this to try to avoid cross leaks
Are you calling the lock up solenoid the same as the TCC solenoid?
After you replaced the conductor plate. Did you need to reprogram the system?
If it went in to limp mode
Hey Gary. NAG1 in jeep commander with a 3.73 axle ratio. I have changed TCM, whole transmission, FDCM and conductor plate but there still remains a P0734 'incorrect gear ratio in 4th'. Any ideas? Could it be a solenoid issue or electrical connection? Do I need a specific VB from a jeep and not MB? I did change the rear speed sensors too since output speed is read off them. Note; there is slight bump when I engage Reverse.
what happens on 3-4 shift?
@@GaryFerraro in liva data, i observe that it will engage 3-4 successfully for about 3 cycles. It goes all the way into 5th. A down shift to 4th after that is when i feel some flares in the transmission and it goes into limp mode. After that, 'current gear and target gear indicate SNA or signal not available'. When I get to traffic lights or some halt and try to set off again, the revs are high and the power is very low (probably stuck in gear 3 and slipping). Turning car off and starting off again resumes normal transmission and cycle repeats itself .
In addition; freeze data suggests that the trouble is triggered in 4th gear. There is no DTC of any solenoids indicating faulty. However, once i saw a p0778 while resetting ecus. It's only come once. I have been trying to fix this car for 2 years and used scan tools every time. Given that it appeared once out of atleast 50 diagnostic tests and never returned, I was curious if there could be something I'm missing along those lines.
Hello, what gear should I put in (N or P) when removing the gearbox controller? Does it matter?
it doesnt matter
ok, thank you for the quick reply
Where I can order set of O rings for solenoid valve? Thanks
hmmm not sure, they come in the overhaul kits but not sure if sold separately
I noticed at 25:03 you tore open a bag of O-rings for the shift solenoids. I looked online for such a kit but with no success I just replaced my CP using this video as a guide, but my transmission is still coming back with the same codes, plus now the converter seems to be slipping. I was meticulously clean too, but I did not split the VB, just swapped the CP, and both Line & Shift Pressure Solenoids - Blue Tops (updated part number). Do you think dissembling the VB, and thoroughly cleaning, replacing O-rings, and possibly the Lock up solenoid might be necessary?
what code are you getting? did this come through with blue tops originally?
@@GaryFerraro P220A, and P2200. These were read using Star. I did have the codes with the old blue tops in, same codes returned now with the updated blue tops. And now the trans slips if I goose it and goes back to limp mode
@@TheFeinspa what is the definition of those codes
@@GaryFerraro Before replacement
P220A: The speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible
P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short
After replacement
P2200: Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has Short
P2561 The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping. (2. gear)
@@TheFeinspa May have a bad conductor plate
21:51 what torque used here ?
100 inch pounds
Good morning
Where are you located.
I just saw the banner in the video.
Parts solvent on them poor hands 😮
Doesn't bother me it's ok
@GaryFerraro not all NAG1 valve body videos are the same. I appreciate the info to clean them. However what are the latest upgrades/Updates to fix common issues or to increase line pressure?