I'm not sure if you're get the chance to read this, but for safety wet whatever you use for sanding when you sand resin. Instead of having the resin dust float into the air to breath, it will get stuck to your nail file. You can then clean the resin dust off the nail file later.
What a great colour combination on this figure.It goes to show if you use the right choice of colours it either makes the figure pop or just makes it a box standard any old model.Great job .👍
To add bronze details on a grey metal thing, I also used the balthazr gold and agrax. Now I am using the snakebite leather contrast. Much simpler, 1 step and I don't have to deal with the heavy body of the gold paint.
I've tried it on a few different things and I agree that the Contrast over metal can work well for gold. In this case I'd be starting from such a dark metal colour, though, I'd probably need to lay down a bright silver first for it to work! 😅
Great stuff as always, could listen to you paint anything really! Could you do a video on Vallejo / alternative paints to Citadel line? I'm interested in trying something else than GW.
It's a bit hard to give any direct comparisons due in part to how the different paint lines work with one another. Citadel has its very clear system of Base/Shade/Layer, but there's a few Vallejo stand-ins which work better for some things. Definitely swap Vallejo Black for Abaddon Black!
The weird thing is that there are two paints called "Yellow green" in the VMC line, only the numbers and spanish names are different. The one I have (70.954) is an extremely bright yellow with a hint of green which looks more like a reflective belt. Just something to be aware of before purchasing.
I discovered there's a similar translation issue with "Grey Green" as well. I've taken to including the number for the pot I'm using in the description just in case! Ordinarily they're wildly different colours so even just looking at the pot in your hand should be a pretty good clue, but it doesn't hurt to be thorough. ;D
Loved the 'well that worked out better' comment. Nice to know experiments work sometimes 😁 Question comes to mind though - would you have shown it if it was a failure??? Thanks for the videos
I've done a couple videos where I've just painted straight over mistakes! If I'd needed to toss the whole model, though, that'd be a pretty extreme fail condition - probably not much to be gained in keeping the video for that one.
i smell auxiliary troops for my tau army! slap some tau symbols on and it'll fit right in--the model even has tau-looking feet, good stuff :D i've already been thinking of using anvil industries models to make tau-astartes :P
The shapes of a lot of the gear for the Regiments range would probably work pretty well for some Tau-alikes, yeah. Plus with the ability to choose what rifles fit on which arms means you could pick something a little longer which might be reminiscent of a pulse carbine.
It depends on quite what you're looking for. If you're planning on printing miniatures a resin machine is your best bet, and I've got an Elegoo Mars for that. Definitely falls into the realm of 'baby's first resin printer,' but the results you get are exactly what you see on screen - pretty good for an entry level device!
This release from Anvil actually tipped me to get a 3D printer (Just ordered an ELEGOO Mars) and subscribe to their Patreon. I'd love to see your take on some of the drop troops too, they have so much detail!
@@DeliciousCornbread It's honestly not quite as scary as you'd think. :) Just take it slow and do your calibration steps - don't leap ahead as you're starting, because any early failures will be way more useful for teaching what might have gone wrong.
He might! I'd actually intended originally to use him as a big bad in some straight FiveCore Skirmish, but there's plenty of space for him-... well, in space, I guess!
I sorta imagine a Macross battlepod style seating position, similar to astronauts. Knees up and back cradled. www.macrossworld.com/mwf/uploads/monthly_01_2009/post-7569-1232262140.gif
Or perhaps it's a sort of Dreadnought-type suit, for crippled soldiers, honestly I think it works better with a robotic head, there are a lot on the market, anyway a beautiful model!
@@elibarker201 I've been printing hero forge resin models and for some reason if I just like drop them maybe about 2 ft from the ground they just break do you know any way I could stop that maybe make them stronger
SilliestSoup most models of any material will break if you drop them from a couple feet. Maybe put a fuzzy rug under where you work if you are super prone to dropping things lol
![Anvil Industry 10th Anniversary! DPM on the Jungle Commissar Variant [How I Paint Things]](/img/n.gif)
I'm not sure if you're get the chance to read this, but for safety wet whatever you use for sanding when you sand resin. Instead of having the resin dust float into the air to breath, it will get stuck to your nail file. You can then clean the resin dust off the nail file later.
Anvil industries produce really cool sculpts, their afterlife miniatures are really cool sci-fi style
I've got my fingers crossed that they do eventually decide to bring the Afterlife rules back to the fore - maybe a swish new rulebook into the mix!
nice colour for ork skin too. nice work.
Not only is it a neat looking figure but the painting terrific! Thanks for sharing this and it was well worth the wait.
What a great colour combination on this figure.It goes to show if you use the right choice of colours it either makes the figure pop or just makes it a box standard any old model.Great job .👍
You're my new Bob Ross.
He needs to beat the devil of it - once in a while lol 😂
Love these videos! Your Blood Bowl player tutorial really helped me out. Thank you so much SSS!
Looks a really Good Figure Brilliant
I love your videos. It really shows how much heart you put into each one!
True
Nice video love your warhammer 40k stuff but this is pretty cool.
To add bronze details on a grey metal thing, I also used the balthazr gold and agrax. Now I am using the snakebite leather contrast. Much simpler, 1 step and I don't have to deal with the heavy body of the gold paint.
I've tried it on a few different things and I agree that the Contrast over metal can work well for gold. In this case I'd be starting from such a dark metal colour, though, I'd probably need to lay down a bright silver first for it to work! 😅
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio haha yes, I forgot the metal was particularly dark in that case.
Which ultrasonic cleaner are you using?
It's a green Tychus Findlay!
Great stuff as always, could listen to you paint anything really! Could you do a video on Vallejo / alternative paints to Citadel line? I'm interested in trying something else than GW.
It's a bit hard to give any direct comparisons due in part to how the different paint lines work with one another. Citadel has its very clear system of Base/Shade/Layer, but there's a few Vallejo stand-ins which work better for some things. Definitely swap Vallejo Black for Abaddon Black!
Would make an awesome Iron warrior conversion if you grimdark'd it up a bit 👍
A few spikes, a little more brass... way less fussing with the extra colour choices! 😂
The weird thing is that there are two paints called "Yellow green" in the VMC line, only the numbers and spanish names are different. The one I have (70.954) is an extremely bright yellow with a hint of green which looks more like a reflective belt. Just something to be aware of before purchasing.
I discovered there's a similar translation issue with "Grey Green" as well. I've taken to including the number for the pot I'm using in the description just in case! Ordinarily they're wildly different colours so even just looking at the pot in your hand should be a pretty good clue, but it doesn't hurt to be thorough. ;D
Loved the 'well that worked out better' comment. Nice to know experiments work sometimes 😁
Question comes to mind though - would you have shown it if it was a failure???
Thanks for the videos
I've done a couple videos where I've just painted straight over mistakes! If I'd needed to toss the whole model, though, that'd be a pretty extreme fail condition - probably not much to be gained in keeping the video for that one.
i smell auxiliary troops for my tau army! slap some tau symbols on and it'll fit right in--the model even has tau-looking feet, good stuff :D i've already been thinking of using anvil industries models to make tau-astartes :P
The shapes of a lot of the gear for the Regiments range would probably work pretty well for some Tau-alikes, yeah. Plus with the ability to choose what rifles fit on which arms means you could pick something a little longer which might be reminiscent of a pulse carbine.
Any recommendations for an inexpensive entry-level 3D printer?
It depends on quite what you're looking for. If you're planning on printing miniatures a resin machine is your best bet, and I've got an Elegoo Mars for that. Definitely falls into the realm of 'baby's first resin printer,' but the results you get are exactly what you see on screen - pretty good for an entry level device!
This release from Anvil actually tipped me to get a 3D printer (Just ordered an ELEGOO Mars) and subscribe to their Patreon. I'd love to see your take on some of the drop troops too, they have so much detail!
Great choice! :D My Mars took a little dialing in, but once I got the swing of it I was smashing out miniatures like nobody's business.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you! I am not looking forward to the learning curve... but the reward will hopefully be worth it lol.
@@DeliciousCornbread It's honestly not quite as scary as you'd think. :) Just take it slow and do your calibration steps - don't leap ahead as you're starting, because any early failures will be way more useful for teaching what might have gone wrong.
What exact type of resin did you use for this?
This is the Elegoo Mars Grey Water Washable resin. It's great stuff!
Thank you , Sonic ,
Nice mini , (stl??) , am a boomer here ,
I want these with shields and clubs to replace my ogryn! These look great!
With the arms having hands free of them, it probably wouldn't be too hard to replace them with some walloping club hands!
Is this fellow going to see a game of Five Parsecs from Home?
He might! I'd actually intended originally to use him as a big bad in some straight FiveCore Skirmish, but there's plenty of space for him-... well, in space, I guess!
I'm trying to figure out in my head, where are legs of the pilot in that thing.
Pretty sure he doesn't need those. ;D Just lop 'em off before installing the pilot!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio that's how they did it in x-com
Sounds like Ork work :o
I sorta imagine a Macross battlepod style seating position, similar to astronauts. Knees up and back cradled. www.macrossworld.com/mwf/uploads/monthly_01_2009/post-7569-1232262140.gif
Or perhaps it's a sort of Dreadnought-type suit, for crippled soldiers, honestly I think it works better with a robotic head, there are a lot on the market, anyway a beautiful model!
Is this fragile or could it take a couple drops without breaking
Resin prints are relatively strong but I would recommend not dropping it in the first place lol
@@elibarker201 I've been printing hero forge resin models and for some reason if I just like drop them maybe about 2 ft from the ground they just break do you know any way I could stop that maybe make them stronger
I probably wouldn't want to drop it! It's not super fragile, but it's not quite as invincible as plastic would be.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio ok i was just wondering if there was a way to make them stronger I keep dropping them like a goof
SilliestSoup most models of any material will break if you drop them from a couple feet. Maybe put a fuzzy rug under where you work if you are super prone to dropping things lol
Oh nice :>
Like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm
Nice mini .... don’t have a printer so that kinda sucks . Or know anyone with one . Ah well
you'll be able to buy it in resin too!
well, he really looks like a gorilla :D