Watching you with your daughter in the skidsteer sure struck a cord with me. It reminded me of the time when my daughter and I did the same thing between tractors and skidsteer. Since she was the age 2 she wanted nothing more than to be with daddy. She just turned 25. I honestly don't know how it happened so fast. Enjoy the time together, my friend, cause you will soon be asking yourself the same question Where did the time go! You don't realize how much that time means to your daughter. I didn't realize how much the time meant to her until she was old enough to express just how much it meant to her as an adult. Cheers bro.
Good Times- Daughter gettin quality Time helpin dad drive skidsteer to get a new floor in shop. She will remember this. You are smart to involve her in this. Good watch. Your a guy that stays busy & provides for his family.
Great start on the shop! Yes, spray foam the walls and paint it white. Install the 2x4 pralines on a 4 walls. Before you foam, install 120 / 220VAC outlets on all 4 walls every 6-8 feet apart.
I put one of these up two years ago. I used all-thread and the coupler nuts to attach 2x4s to the walls. Couple to the bolts holding the building together then drilled a countersunk hole in 2x4 so the nut would flush. I didn't know how I wanted to insulate it and i ended up getting the large fiberglass rolls for buildings like this. only have two rolls up though.
The fewer holes that you put in the metal shell the happier you will be long term. Rather than screwing purlins in from the outside, you might want to think about replacing some of the inside nuts that fasten the metal panels together with standoff nuts & some loctite. That will give you a secure attachment to the metal frame that you can bolt into from the inside without adding any additional holes to the metal structure. You can use the standoff nuts to attach your purlins, create gaps for your insulation, and whatever finished wall/ceiling treatment that you want to use in there. Looking forward to seeing this come together!
It's great to see you involving your daughter in your work. I'm sure she looks up to you a lot for doing that and she'll remember it her whole life. Great shot of her inside the skid steer helping with the controls. Great stuff.
Family business, dave ! Wife supervising and ur daughter "helping daddy" made me smile !! Might comma day when u gotta change name to..... "dumpser dave and daughter" llc ?! ❤😂
Add the purlins, get the whole thing spray foamed and sealed. Then put metal up at least 6- 8 feet to help protect it. Don't really need to do the whole thing if you don't want to spend the money. If you want to cover it all, consider canvas above the metal and paint it white. Tuck the edge of the canvas under the metal.
I'd so the 2x3 purlins across the interior then insulate it with batts and run the white roof metal horizontally so it will bend with the curve of the roof. I've seen trucks that roll the corrugated metal out on site like a seamless gutter. That way the pieces could be 50' and a quick install
Running the ridges in the metal horizontally would be the best idea, that will pick up the curvature of the building quite well. Don't get too deep ridges as they will store dust, just the soft corrugated stuff... Great shop, makes me envy... 😉😇🤪 Great little helper as well! 👍👍👍
Just FYI, your overhead door latch can be adjusted up or down on that rail it’s mounted to. It’s held in place with self tappers so in your case just lower it a bout an inch and refasten. No need to cut up the side channel.
I like the perlings and spray foam idea with the metal roofing that will eliminate the need for a fire retardant barrier the metal roofing will be the barrier.
Make sure if you foam, that it is closed cell foam. Also if you have any desire to have future improvements like wiring and or piping; install that first then foam afterwards.
Going to make a great shop! Spray foam is where it is at these days for sure. Then finish inside with corrugated steel, then paint with reflective white or reflective silver.
Perhaps a little odd suggestion, but the first 4’ high of walls tend to get pretty banged up in a shop … you may want to find something like plastic hockey wall sheets that are designed to stop and take pucks in an arena. They are very tough. I’m in Ontario and you can get them easily and I’ve seen some of these listed on Marketplace for cheap … suspect New York state might be easy too… someone builds a puck shooting area in their basement and then at some point the kids outgrow it and they just want to get rid if it. Above that perhaps buy steel sheets, borrow a big roller and curve to the shape. They’d be fire resistant and you can get them in many colours. Enjoyed the video, thanks.😊
if you put up the 2x4's put FRP panels up they bend nice and you'll have a surface you can hose down....this product is used in commercial bathrooms....there is a wide price difference between manufacturers..................
Hey Dave, great start to a new shop man. Just a thought, make it good enough for now. Keep to a budget you set and stop. Spray foam, excellent idea. Paint it yourself with a cheapo spray gun. Spend the remaining budget on 2 heat/cool mini splits. A conditioned space will keep you motivated to be there. If you are freezing or boiling, what good is it? Ask jesse muller about running them off of a solar panel, he told me some units can power a mini split directly. Looks awesome!
This is good advice. The key to a good workspace is convenience. Painting everything white is a great idea. There's nothing worse than a workshop that's dark and cold - it's often better to work outside than in those conditions, in which case it's a shed, not a workshop.
Take your metal siding, used on the ends, 16' long lay it on its side, it will conform the the shape very easily. Or build a loft on either, or both sides, seven or eight feet tall, four to eight feet deep, put your office upstairs out of the way. Or just put up a six foot stud wall? Go for it, can't wait to see what you come up with.
It's been a while since we heard from you good seeng you again Dave. Stay well and healthy, I wish you and your family all the very best.. Keep up the good work..
That building is going to be great! I like your purlin concept. You might consider dropping a 4' tall pony wall down for bottom. It will give you a chase for electrical, air lines, plumbing or dust collection. Your benches and other roll around items will also sit nicely against a short wall. I'd also cover that section in plywood for durability and so you can screw to it anywhere you want. Spray foam will be better than batts. It will serve as a moisture barrier which will be VERY important because you don't have any ventilation in the quonset ribs. Moisture will form on the warm side of the wall, which in NY that will likely be the inside of the building. As for something to cover up the spray foam, I wouldn't use corrugated, I'd use pre-finished flat steel (28ga???). You will be able to use it as the world's biggest white board. You could also use FRP. It's flexible and easy to hang. It looks like your building is about 60x25? That's right around 100-120 sheets to do the whole building if my math is right. When I've done big quantities like that, I gang drill the fastener holes while the sheets are still on the pallet. Measure once, drill 5000 times! Good luck!!!!
Good to see you again Dave it's been a while but anyhow on your new shop you need some lights right in the middle on the top so that way you have a light shining down also I know it might sound like a pain in the ass but I was putting new lights up in the straight in the middle
When I saw your equipment wouldn't start when the concrete was on the way I'm reminded of advice I got from an old concrete man. He said have an extra wheel barrow and an extra man. Something always goes wrong. I didn't know low oil would foil your plans as well. Talk to the manufacturer about what to do with the steel walls.
I think I would do purlins, but I would glue them on instead of screws from the outside. I'm sure there's a relatively cheap product by PL or Liquid Nails that can handle that. I hate putting unnecessary holes in a building. Then metal building tin ran horizontally.
Man, where did the time go. Seems like yesterday my daughter was riding the tractor and the zero turn with me at about that age. Three weeks ago, she drove herself to school..... Take all the pictures you can dude, we get old at breakneck speed! I feel like I can see the hands on the clock move these days!! Shops looking great man. Mine is just flat walls, but I spray foamed mine and just let it grow out and left it all except where my workbench is. Kinda has that cave feel to it now. One little mini split keeps it nice in there though. Spray foam is amazing. It was white at first and now it's a bit yellow, but still light enough to keep it bright in the shop.
I would come out a few inches and steel stud walls on both sides to 8' high and drywall or steel panels then use stickers like ur saying up from that. You could run electrical, any plumbing for air and water behind the new walls with regular insulation then spray foam above that. I am a retired GC from southern California. This would be how we would finish your interior. You could use wood studs. Either way it would give you usable walls to shelve or what ever. Push R30 insulation into the walls. 16 or 24 inches on center. Just a thought. Good luck.
4x10 sheets of powder coated aluminum , any color , about 70.00 a sheet easy to put up with pop rivets, same stuff they use on tractor trailers, insulate first with spray foam
If they run horizontal, they are girts. If they are supporting the roof, they are purlins. If they don't carry much load they are just strapping. Spray foam is great for that application, but it will always look like spray foam. But it is a shop, not a beauty parlor. Nice work.
Nice start Dave. It's going to be a great series. I'm not really sure white is a great colour (- it will show every piece of grime, vehicle exhaust soot, etc). Maybe a mid-grey, and a pile of LED lights to brighten it up again?
The use of a suicide cord to connect a portable generator to the building wiring is inexcusable. Install a proper interlocked inlet if one will be useful in the long run, or at least hard wire a cord and plug in place of the main breaker/main lugs of the existing panel.
@@CB.5 None of that reduces the danger of the suicide cord plugged into the generator. If someone comes along and unplugs the cord end at the building, now you have live prongs energized by the generator. Easy to get electrocuted that way. The building side of the cord needs to be a female end, so the building needs an inlet to connect to, not a receptacle.
I used to install lifts, if your going with a 10k get an asymmetrical two post. rotary or challenger or forward. benpack is crap. the asymmetrical will let you open truck doors more to get in and out of the vehicle. also you can order extended hight lifts, two reasons for this, one if your tall and dont want to be hunched over working under the truck and the other is because it allows for the storage of taller vehicles bellow when you have a vehicle on the lift. hope this helps just found your channel
That shape is hard to form to, you may have an easier time using aluminized panels up to a certain height, 10-12", then leave the rest above exposed but painted. You could also just fir the walls out and use straight gauge metal on it to the set height, I say this because ribbed metal like roofing may not want to make the bend correctly and start turning in directions you don't want; a mild rib profile on the sheets might fix that problem. Steel may be easier and less prone to denting than aluminum, but either is going to take some hard bumps and get messed up. thicker gauge metal may be harder to install but take less damage but also cost more; I don't think thicker than 16 gauge will be installed without working the metal, 18 would probably be around the sweet spot; the thinner sheets get their strength from the added ribs. you might be able to just buy a coil of the thicker metal from a company that makes the metal panels for roofing or have them cut to length all of them without forming; then it will come painted both sides to how you want it for color and less rusting concerns. all in, I haven't seen a good solution for those huts yet that I would suggest but overall the idea of going to a set height and leaving the rest exposed foam but painted well, does not look all that terrible. the flat metal makes it easier to add piping and put on shelves and such.
great job i would just spray foam insulation + white thick spray paint and thats it you will just waste money and energy to put purlin sand metal roofing i think
Never make those cables man! Just wire your generator cable in the panel, and tie the cable down so it wont pull out. So much safer, and I bet you would have got that done faster than putting on that plug
Sonne Farms has spray foam in their utility buildings but they do not spend all day working inside them. My only concern is the off gas. I think Millennial Farmer and Cole the Corn Star also use spray foam. So, maybe the off gas is not that bad...?
Do you know who made this shed? Normaly they know what would attach easily. If you want to do it by yourself put small wood in horizontal lines. You can put isolation in and then a layer what we call formica. Or try to find sandwich panels thats isolation and cover in one. And indeed put some cheap plywood from the floor to 5/7 feet up. Easy to protect when stuff tumbles and when you want to fasten cabinets boxes whatever to the wall.
That has to be in New England or NY/PA...I know of no other place in the U.S. where topsoil is that black and that rocky. It looks exactly like the soil on our farm in Grafton in fact.
Good to see you again, it's been a minute. Check out FRP paneling for the lower part of the walls, I've used it before with good results. How much did you make off that pile of copper? Hopefully enough for some new tools lol
Never understood the point of mesh without chairs... they all say they will pull it up when they pour, yet to see it done consistently. Compare the two when you jackhammer it apart and there is a world of difference.
If that were my shop here's what I'd do - spray 3" of closed cell urethane foam as insulation on all the metal and back wall (door in back wall as emergency exit?). It will seal to the metal and the closed cell will act as a vapor barrier to not let any cold air condense on the metal. Put a run of 2x4 at cabinet height on the foam to attach cabinets/whatever to. Put a mini split cool/heat unit in the front and another in the back so you are warm in the winter and cool in the summer, make your working enviromment agreeable to working. Maybe set up a pot belly stove in a corner so that friends can come in, sit around it, warm up and discuss the worlds problems and how to get that truck running 😀
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching you with your daughter in the skidsteer sure struck a cord with me. It reminded me of the time when my daughter and I did the same thing between tractors and skidsteer. Since she was the age 2 she wanted nothing more than to be with daddy. She just turned 25. I honestly don't know how it happened so fast. Enjoy the time together, my friend, cause you will soon be asking yourself the same question Where did the time go! You don't realize how much that time means to your daughter. I didn't realize how much the time meant to her until she was old enough to express just how much it meant to her as an adult.
Cheers bro.
Good to see some new content from the Dumpster Dave.
Thanks
glad to see you spending time with family and creating content!
Love the daddy part of the video man. Nothing more special than them wanting to spend time with you.
Great to finally see a bit more from you Dave. your dauighter is precious.
Good you have your little daughter supervising making sure you got the job done right ✅
Painting it white is a good idea. Makes it easier to light, and easier to see what you are doing when working out there!
You have the greatest helper ever. I absolutely love you and her working. Awesome.
I’ll never have children, but the clips of you and your daughter really got me. Enjoy it.
Good Times- Daughter gettin quality Time helpin dad drive skidsteer to get a new floor in shop. She will remember this. You are smart to involve her in this. Good watch. Your a guy that stays busy & provides for his family.
Nice job Dave & little helper
Great start on the shop!
Yes, spray foam the walls and paint it white. Install the 2x4 pralines on a 4 walls. Before you foam, install 120 / 220VAC outlets on all 4 walls every 6-8 feet apart.
Looks great! That’s a nice shop. Good space! It’ll be nice!👍
Could not agree more😃
Really good job on this concrete pour. Looks amazing and soooo much room.
Yeah it’s great
I put one of these up two years ago. I used all-thread and the coupler nuts to attach 2x4s to the walls. Couple to the bolts holding the building together then drilled a countersunk hole in 2x4 so the nut would flush. I didn't know how I wanted to insulate it and i ended up getting the large fiberglass rolls for buildings like this. only have two rolls up though.
This is the correct way! Coupler nuts and all-thread!
Outstanding and awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along.
The fewer holes that you put in the metal shell the happier you will be long term.
Rather than screwing purlins in from the outside, you might want to think about replacing some of the inside nuts that fasten the metal panels together with standoff nuts & some loctite.
That will give you a secure attachment to the metal frame that you can bolt into from the inside without adding any additional holes to the metal structure.
You can use the standoff nuts to attach your purlins, create gaps for your insulation, and whatever finished wall/ceiling treatment that you want to use in there.
Looking forward to seeing this come together!
It's great to see you involving your daughter in your work. I'm sure she looks up to you a lot for doing that and she'll remember it her whole life. Great shot of her inside the skid steer helping with the controls. Great stuff.
Family business, dave ! Wife supervising and ur daughter "helping daddy" made me smile !! Might comma day when u gotta change name to..... "dumpser dave and daughter" llc ?! ❤😂
😎 This special approach is very remarkable. 🖖
Add the purlins, get the whole thing spray foamed and sealed. Then put metal up at least 6- 8 feet to help protect it. Don't really need to do the whole thing if you don't want to spend the money.
If you want to cover it all, consider canvas above the metal and paint it white. Tuck the edge of the canvas under the metal.
Thanks
What I was going to say.
I'd so the 2x3 purlins across the interior then insulate it with batts and run the white roof metal horizontally so it will bend with the curve of the roof. I've seen trucks that roll the corrugated metal out on site like a seamless gutter. That way the pieces could be 50' and a quick install
Running the ridges in the metal horizontally would be the best idea, that will pick up the curvature of the building quite well. Don't get too deep ridges as they will store dust, just the soft corrugated stuff...
Great shop, makes me envy...
😉😇🤪
Great little helper as well!
👍👍👍
Just FYI, your overhead door latch can be adjusted up or down on that rail it’s mounted to. It’s held in place with self tappers so in your case just lower it a bout an inch and refasten. No need to cut up the side channel.
That's what I was thinking, it has to be separate from the door, just the way it's mounted.
dude felt embarrassed with that generator no start and wasn't thinking straight. Can't blame him
God bless you, my friend!!
Great job, Dave! Looks good!
It looks so much better inside now, good job....
I like the perlings and spray foam idea with the metal roofing that will eliminate the need for a fire retardant barrier the metal roofing will be the barrier.
Make sure if you foam, that it is closed cell foam. Also if you have any desire to have future improvements like wiring and or piping; install that first then foam afterwards.
There are also exterior spray foam products, so you could have them spray both the outside and inside out to level and not lose any space.
I’d foam curved portions & paint. No tin. Adding tin will add to echoes. Not what you want but what I’d do
Going to make a great shop! Spray foam is where it is at these days for sure. Then finish inside with corrugated steel, then paint with reflective white or reflective silver.
Perhaps a little odd suggestion, but the first 4’ high of walls tend to get pretty banged up in a shop … you may want to find something like plastic hockey wall sheets that are designed to stop and take pucks in an arena. They are very tough. I’m in Ontario and you can get them easily and I’ve seen some of these listed on Marketplace for cheap … suspect New York state might be easy too… someone builds a puck shooting area in their basement and then at some point the kids outgrow it and they just want to get rid if it. Above that perhaps buy steel sheets, borrow a big roller and curve to the shape. They’d be fire resistant and you can get them in many colours. Enjoyed the video, thanks.😊
G, day Dave top job on the workshop Mate keep up the good job.........
Always nice to watch the pour of a good slab :-) Ties the building together.
You think the carpet pissers did this?
if you put up the 2x4's put FRP panels up they bend nice and you'll have a surface you can hose down....this product is used in commercial bathrooms....there is a wide price difference between manufacturers..................
Thanks! I’ll look in to it
Cool project, Thanks for the video.
Hey Dave, great start to a new shop man. Just a thought, make it good enough for now. Keep to a budget you set and stop. Spray foam, excellent idea. Paint it yourself with a cheapo spray gun. Spend the remaining budget on 2 heat/cool mini splits. A conditioned space will keep you motivated to be there. If you are freezing or boiling, what good is it? Ask jesse muller about running them off of a solar panel, he told me some units can power a mini split directly. Looks awesome!
This is good advice. The key to a good workspace is convenience. Painting everything white is a great idea. There's nothing worse than a workshop that's dark and cold - it's often better to work outside than in those conditions, in which case it's a shed, not a workshop.
Take your metal siding, used on the ends, 16' long lay it on its side, it will conform the the shape very easily.
Or build a loft on either, or both sides, seven or eight feet tall, four to eight feet deep, put your office upstairs out of the way.
Or just put up a six foot stud wall?
Go for it, can't wait to see what you come up with.
Hi Dave
Super Aufnahmen
Super Video
It's been a while since we heard from you good seeng you again Dave. Stay well and healthy, I wish you and your family all the very best.. Keep up the good work..
Looks amazing just having a door knob was a big improvement 😜still waiting to see the new truck video
Keep the content coming!
That building is going to be great! I like your purlin concept. You might consider dropping a 4' tall pony wall down for bottom. It will give you a chase for electrical, air lines, plumbing or dust collection. Your benches and other roll around items will also sit nicely against a short wall. I'd also cover that section in plywood for durability and so you can screw to it anywhere you want. Spray foam will be better than batts. It will serve as a moisture barrier which will be VERY important because you don't have any ventilation in the quonset ribs. Moisture will form on the warm side of the wall, which in NY that will likely be the inside of the building. As for something to cover up the spray foam, I wouldn't use corrugated, I'd use pre-finished flat steel (28ga???). You will be able to use it as the world's biggest white board. You could also use FRP. It's flexible and easy to hang. It looks like your building is about 60x25? That's right around 100-120 sheets to do the whole building if my math is right. When I've done big quantities like that, I gang drill the fastener holes while the sheets are still on the pallet. Measure once, drill 5000 times! Good luck!!!!
Thanks for the ideas
Good to see you again Dave it's been a while but anyhow on your new shop you need some lights right in the middle on the top so that way you have a light shining down also I know it might sound like a pain in the ass but I was putting new lights up in the straight in the middle
Congratulations!
Looking good!
When I saw your equipment wouldn't start when the concrete was on the way I'm reminded of advice I got from an old concrete man. He said have an extra wheel barrow and an extra man. Something always goes wrong. I didn't know low oil would foil your plans as well. Talk to the manufacturer about what to do with the steel walls.
I think I would do purlins, but I would glue them on instead of screws from the outside. I'm sure there's a relatively cheap product by PL or Liquid Nails that can handle that. I hate putting unnecessary holes in a building. Then metal building tin ran horizontally.
Good job Dave. I would leave the sides just the way they are. No sparks no fires. Just an opinion.
Should have added insulation un the slab to help create a heat and cool sink. Sure nicer working on a slab over dirt or gravel.
Man, where did the time go. Seems like yesterday my daughter was riding the tractor and the zero turn with me at about that age. Three weeks ago, she drove herself to school..... Take all the pictures you can dude, we get old at breakneck speed! I feel like I can see the hands on the clock move these days!! Shops looking great man. Mine is just flat walls, but I spray foamed mine and just let it grow out and left it all except where my workbench is. Kinda has that cave feel to it now. One little mini split keeps it nice in there though. Spray foam is amazing. It was white at first and now it's a bit yellow, but still light enough to keep it bright in the shop.
Looking good. Don't forget to cut some control joints in that slab.
I would spray foam and then ply the rest or use long boards to finish then paint will be strong enough to hand tools/shelves from
The round part wouldn't bother me one bit it looks awesome like it is. A kinda throw back to military buildings , Funkster
I would come out a few inches and steel stud walls on both sides to 8' high and drywall or steel panels then use stickers like ur saying up from that. You could run electrical, any plumbing for air and water behind the new walls with regular insulation then spray foam above that. I am a retired GC from southern California. This would be how we would finish your interior. You could use wood studs. Either way it would give you usable walls to shelve or what ever. Push R30 insulation into the walls. 16 or 24 inches on center.
Just a thought. Good luck.
Great video thanks Dave
Grate job!
Spray Closed Cell Insulation 2"-3". You will Not Regret it !! And Then get a couple of Good Coats of Paint.
Thanks
For the purlins just use connector nut on the bolts that hold the building together and ready rod. R20 bat insulation is way cheaper.
4x10 sheets of powder coated aluminum , any color , about 70.00 a sheet easy to put up with pop rivets, same stuff they use on tractor trailers, insulate first with spray foam
Looks great.. Should cut some control joints on the concrete floor unless you did already.
Your daughter is cool. We used to have 2 in a very similar model
The fewer holes through the exterior the better, try bolting brackets to the existing bolts, then attach the pulling to the brackets.
If they run horizontal, they are girts. If they are supporting the roof, they are purlins. If they don't carry much load they are just strapping. Spray foam is great for that application, but it will always look like spray foam. But it is a shop, not a beauty parlor. Nice work.
Nice start Dave. It's going to be a great series. I'm not really sure white is a great colour (- it will show every piece of grime, vehicle exhaust soot, etc). Maybe a mid-grey, and a pile of LED lights to brighten it up again?
Good point, maybe white is not the best choice
you did a good job buddy
The use of a suicide cord to connect a portable generator to the building wiring is inexcusable. Install a proper interlocked inlet if one will be useful in the long run, or at least hard wire a cord and plug in place of the main breaker/main lugs of the existing panel.
He said to was cut outside and then he even disconnected the wires coming in.
@@CB.5 None of that reduces the danger of the suicide cord plugged into the generator. If someone comes along and unplugs the cord end at the building, now you have live prongs energized by the generator. Easy to get electrocuted that way. The building side of the cord needs to be a female end, so the building needs an inlet to connect to, not a receptacle.
What is the manufacture of the building and what type of foundation was it installed on before the slab floor? Thanks for the video.
4’ frost wall all the way around and I’m not sure what the manufacturer is
Keeping those pocket areas down both sides clean "very smart". Had allowed dirt build up on one and rusted so bad we cut and replaced bottom two feet
I used to install lifts, if your going with a 10k get an asymmetrical two post. rotary or challenger or forward. benpack is crap. the asymmetrical will let you open truck doors more to get in and out of the vehicle. also you can order extended hight lifts, two reasons for this, one if your tall and dont want to be hunched over working under the truck and the other is because it allows for the storage of taller vehicles bellow when you have a vehicle on the lift. hope this helps just found your channel
Thanks
I'd add a couple of windows in the back for more natural light and a cross breeze in the summer !!
Yeah that’s a good idea, might put another man door also.
That shape is hard to form to, you may have an easier time using aluminized panels up to a certain height, 10-12", then leave the rest above exposed but painted. You could also just fir the walls out and use straight gauge metal on it to the set height, I say this because ribbed metal like roofing may not want to make the bend correctly and start turning in directions you don't want; a mild rib profile on the sheets might fix that problem. Steel may be easier and less prone to denting than aluminum, but either is going to take some hard bumps and get messed up. thicker gauge metal may be harder to install but take less damage but also cost more; I don't think thicker than 16 gauge will be installed without working the metal, 18 would probably be around the sweet spot; the thinner sheets get their strength from the added ribs. you might be able to just buy a coil of the thicker metal from a company that makes the metal panels for roofing or have them cut to length all of them without forming; then it will come painted both sides to how you want it for color and less rusting concerns.
all in, I haven't seen a good solution for those huts yet that I would suggest but overall the idea of going to a set height and leaving the rest exposed foam but painted well, does not look all that terrible. the flat metal makes it easier to add piping and put on shelves and such.
Thanks,
Sounds like a great plan
great job
i would just spray foam insulation + white thick spray paint and thats it
you will just waste money and energy to put purlin sand metal roofing i think
You could use 2x4 blocks glue them to the steel than run 1x3 batons like an arch than attach the metal roofing to them.
vapour barrier...insulation/spray insulation and 6mm plyboards they are flimsy enough to bend and be screwed with self tapping screws into the metal.
Inside looks nice. Spray foam ands mini split
👍
Dave, Bus Grease Monkey built a Quonset hut garage and insulated with spray foam. It’s on his channel.
I’ll check it out thanks
id do stone wool insulation and white siding metal - no fire hazard and easy to clean with a pressure washer
Good job!
Ahhh, now I see the laser!!! I didn’t see it until later
just gleu the 2x4's and then sprayfoam should be strong enough
Never make those cables man! Just wire your generator cable in the panel, and tie the cable down so it wont pull out. So much safer, and I bet you would have got that done faster than putting on that plug
Great job on getting the floor dirt dug-up and put-in the rebars to pour in some cement.. shop looks good now..
Sonne Farms has spray foam in their utility buildings but they do not spend all day working inside them. My only concern is the off gas. I think Millennial Farmer and Cole the Corn Star also use spray foam. So, maybe the off gas is not that bad...?
Spray foam insulation doesn’t off gas. If it did, people wouldn’t use it in schoolie builds that they live in.
so cool!!
Dumpster Dave = A real American doing real American stuff!
Nice shop
Some type of spray on liquid expanding insulation would be efficient for install and retain architecture.
they make white pvc sheets the size of sheetrock at Lowes and Home Depot. different thicknesses too. pattern and plain
I’ll check that out thanks
Do you know who made this shed? Normaly they know what would attach easily. If you want to do it by yourself put small wood in horizontal lines. You can put isolation in and then a layer what we call formica. Or try to find sandwich panels thats isolation and cover in one. And indeed put some cheap plywood from the floor to 5/7 feet up. Easy to protect when stuff tumbles and when you want to fasten cabinets boxes whatever to the wall.
One issue with having corrugated steel horizontal is that it will collect dust like crazy. Otherwise I like that idea.
Saw ur cameo on Andrew's channel collecting stone.
That has to be in New England or NY/PA...I know of no other place in the U.S. where topsoil is that black and that rocky. It looks exactly like the soil on our farm in Grafton in fact.
It’s gravel, been there along time. It’s in NY
Should be a nice shop!
Are you going to hvae any issues with the ttown working on trucks in a residential neighborhood?
It’s not for trucks
Good to see you again, it's been a minute. Check out FRP paneling for the lower part of the walls, I've used it before with good results. How much did you make off that pile of copper? Hopefully enough for some new tools lol
Still sitting in the dump trailer lol
Just jealous here but very happy for you
Never understood the point of mesh without chairs... they all say they will pull it up when they pour, yet to see it done consistently. Compare the two when you jackhammer it apart and there is a world of difference.
congrats
If that were my shop here's what I'd do - spray 3" of closed cell urethane foam as insulation on all the metal and back wall (door in back wall as emergency exit?). It will seal to the metal and the closed cell will act as a vapor barrier to not let any cold air condense on the metal. Put a run of 2x4 at cabinet height on the foam to attach cabinets/whatever to. Put a mini split cool/heat unit in the front and another in the back so you are warm in the winter and cool in the summer, make your working enviromment agreeable to working. Maybe set up a pot belly stove in a corner so that friends can come in, sit around it, warm up and discuss the worlds problems and how to get that truck running 😀