Building the Best Damn GMC Motorhome Ever E.23 - Smart Blinkers and Front End Beginning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- Let's get mechanical, and smart! I programmed and wired up a micro controller to drive the single bulb LED Turn Signal/Running Lights. Then I took the wheels off the front in preparation for the Drivetrain upgrade.
Patreon: / thedigitalmaker
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At 23:24 you say "never deviate from stock". For all GM trucks and some cars from early 70's to 80's, the front turn indicators and the side marker lights from stock flash out of phase. LEDs don't work with the existing wiring because GM is flipping the polarity, but by design, the incandescent lamps did flash out of phase regardless of the "legal requirements". So in effect, you are deviating from stock as you try to "fix" a problem that isn't really a problem.
Motor hard to start
Finally I was waiting for this for a long time please don't leave this series
Great job Matthew! Really enjoying this series! Very cool idea! Happy Fathers Day my friend
I enjoy watching the renovation stuff. A lot of the technical & mechanical stuff goes over my head. But somethings have come in handy to know. I watch regardless of what it is. I may not have much to say that helps you other than just being a subscriber. LOL HUGS~Donna
Thanks Donna, it's great to have you here. :)
Great you have the 16 inch steel rims! Those will also work with the new Manny front end. My coach came with a 16.5 spare so I found a whole set of 16 inch wheels so I could get one good one for my new spare. As I have Alcoas all around, I had the spare silver powder coated.
Keep it up. You’re inspiring me to contact Manny and get the 1-Ton front end, possibly a transmission rebuild, and potentially the updated drive ratio. I have a ‘77 GMC Kingsley.
I’m surprised this series doesn’t have more of a following. Keep it up!
27 minutes of him talking about blinker wiring might be the issue... well, two videos talking about blinker wiring.... not everyone's cup of tea.
Let me sugest you use an epoxy primer, especially on those factory fibre glass end caps as well as the generator and LP doors.
Make sure you use a lead additive to the fuel. It will tear up the valve seats and valves if you don’t.
Over complicated a simple circuit! There's no need to use an Arduino, these circuits have been done in analogue for centuries. IF you decide to continue with it however, then use the Arduino properly and add 3 blink "comfort" lane change blink off tap on the indicator stalk, otherwise go back to basics and flip the polarity on the DRL so it won't flash out of sync by adding 1 more relay.
Or use a simple bridge rectifier to make the LEDs polarity insensitive and use the original wiring?
@@GrahamY1970 this is what I've been wondering since he started messing with the lights. Four diodes in a very common configuration.
very detailed, great video
You can buy replacement LED bulbs with a built-in bridge rectifier or they use 2 LED's in opposite polarities. Since the OEM was for the front side signals to blink opposite with the front signals, you don't need to worry about what the current regulations say, you are grandfathered. FYI you may need to add a resistor across the front signal lights to make the side lights work as OEM.... or just leave the front signals as incandescent bulbs for now.
hey man, maybe you already know (srr if you do and im reapiting) but be aware that car alternators when working it goes to 14 volts.... and when cranking there sometimes can be spikes. Not fully certain of if the could damage your circuit but i belive its something to have in mind. Keep up the awsome work!!! Hugs from portugal
I have an entire front end powder coated and ready to install.
Message me if you would like it. New shafts brakes ball joints everything.
You can just buy a trailer light kit at Walmart for maybe $20 to for your directional light issues. It will do exactly what your trying to do.
That would be an amazing vehicle for an LS1 swap if it would work!
If you notice on your front tire there is the letters LT 225/etc, LT stands for "truck tires" meaning they can carry heavy loads and max press of 80 psi, at the tire store don't let them sell you P 225/etc tires, P is for passenger tires and it goes to 44 psi, these tires will not be able to handle the heavy weight of your rig and they will explode on you.
I will be making a video about tires. The letters LT vs P are not indicators of a tires load carrying capability. Load Range is the old standard and Load index is the new standard for such information. Read more here: www.discounttire.com/learn/load-range-load-index
They have flasher's for converting to led turn signals on motorcycle, you should be able to adapt those things for what you want.
Nice video. I enjoy playing with microcontrollers as well, but I'm wouldn't consider them for a project in my GMC. I hope you get that front end in (let me know if you want to put it off for later, and I'll take it off your hands for cost. :) ). You're gonna have the best one, man!
Re: deviating from stock - your conclusion that "you are declaring yourself smarter than the original engineer" is definitely not the only conclusion. The original engineer had tools from 50 years ago, they had materials and manufacturing costs from 50 years ago, and even if they designed it yesterday, they have cost constraints that a DIYer might not.
I got new floor mats for my car - is that because I'm smarter than the engineers that designed the stock floormats? No, it's because I have a different value concept for the performance of my floormats than the manufacturer did.
Across Europe, many countries mandate wheel nut (lug nut) indicators.
Search for "Checkpoint Yellow Wheel Nut Indicator" for an idea of what they look like.
They act as a visual indicator for loose wheel nuts. Use one on each wheel nut and point pairs of indicators at an ajacent neighbour. They tend to be made from PVC in bright colours. I'm sure a man with your 3D printing skills would have no problem at all producing the 48 indicators you would need on your wheels.
This is a good tip. Thank you. I was unaware of these.
My 2002 Wrangler has a front blinker and front side blinker that from the factory flash out of phase just like the GMC MH. I don't think your dual relay was going to be illegal, especially since neither the CVC or FMVSS specifically mention flashing side marker lights.
Hi could you use auto diode on each running lights and blinker lights positive so it protects each system and stops any feed back on either one of them. I think that will be an easier system to use. Just have a led that can handle the extra power with both working at the same time. I think this my work for your project for running and blinker lights.
Have you considered using a bridge rectifier to remove the reverse polarity issue of the lights? If you have considered it, could you explain why it wouldn't work?
Do you have a link for the assemblies that do this?
Okay; so I'm 60: but there was a huge dip in quality at the turn of the century. I'm guessing this was a US-based list? About ¾ of the most recent tracks I'd never heard or heard of ...
Holley fuel injection kit will make it a pleasure to drive
Seriously, the electrical stuff aside, get a better jack. Moving it may be a chore but having 3 ton capacity jack will give you a far higher safety margin. Between the motor, chassis, and suspension, you are probably hitting a good 1000 or 1200 pounds and jack capacity can degrade over time if you have a leaky cylinder. Also 16 inch wheels have a safety bead whereas the gm 16.5 did not so you are actually running a far safer wheel for road traveling because if you get a flat or really low tire it will have far less chance of sliding off the rim
"Smart Blinker" could have been an LED, two diodes and two resistors. Set up the a diode and resistor to sent running light current for "dim, running light", and the second diode and resistor for "Bright Flash" during blinking.
Also, I've seen many "side running lights" that flash in opposite phase of the blinkers.
why not us a 5 pin relay?, take a feed for the turn single wire before the flasher relay down to pin 86, take a feed from the running lights to pin 30, pin 87A to the + wire of the LED ( red wire) now make a tail from that red wire and put a diode on it, take a feed from the turn single + wire and connect it to the diode. now when you turn on your running lights on the LED will come on, and when you turn on the flasher it will energise the relay, switching of the LED and turning into a flasher
Kindly post the instructions you followed for the front end. Thanks.
machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/
Seems like a really complicated way to go about this. Why not just swap your current blinker relay with a LED relay and add a second LED to the blinker circuit that lights the LED so you have run and double bright is blink just like your rear lights work at night.
Agreed i would just have added a second light too
Some great progress on the motor home. Would it be easier to use separate driving lights & indicators?
Yes. So much easier. But I don't want to add a second bulb. I like the clean look of a single round LED on the side. Also, anyone else who has a stock GMC and simply wants to switch his/her incandescent bulbs with LED lights will have the same problem, and they probably won't want to add a second bulb to their side marker either.
@@IndustriousPursuits How about a 1.9 TDI VW engine 150hp version hooked onto a Lexus 450h transmission it alone can produce 375hp.... add a Nissan leaf battery and home brew cooling system made from brake pipe to act as cooling channels running between every other battery(pipe - battery/battery - pipe ect)
@@IndustriousPursuits The simple solution is to use a LED that has two levels of brightness. Also, the Federal Laws pertain to the manufacturers, not the users. Once sold, you have to meet state law for your state. The simultaneously flashing was used to force the end of the sequential taillights the T-Birds and Cougars were known for. GM vehicles have long had the opposite flashing side markers. They are not front or rear lights, just side lights. The reason they flash oppositely is due to the bulb getting positive voltage on both sides of the filament. Zero volt drop means the bulb goes off when the parking/running lights are on and the turn signals flash.
Why not put in a off the shelf VCU?
Yeah...does Holley make an EFI kit for this engine?
Call summit racing
Betting your better then the guy who designed it. You obviously don’t watch Munro lives channel. 😉
What are you going to do with rear side markers? So now 4 and not 2.....
Why not just caculate your light circuit comsumption for the side markers in series with the front marker/signal and see if you can just series them together.......seems like this is a complicated solution to a simple problem .....cool never the less but ...
Remember 1978: Disco, Cocaine etc... Yeah I think it can be done better now.
One person did not design that front end it all done as team effort
God you've been working on this RV for years now and still no progress
Just because you can make fancy electronic diode lights, does not mean you should do it. Where are you going to get spare replacements in 2 years let alone 5 years? The diode lites may have an almost forever durability and reliability, but your magic circuits and wires certainly do not. Go have a chat with any heavy truck and trailer shop that has been dealing with these diode lights for the last 7 years or so. Especially on their semi trailers.
Please get a proper jack. That Jack you are using is not good. From factory the 26 ft came with an advertised front weight rating of 4000 to 4200 lb depending on year. You are asking for a an accident if you continue using a 1.5 ton ( 3000 lb) jack. Second issue is the jack position. If you have to crawl under your vehicle to jack, when it fails you will pinned under the vehicle. Go to harbor freight and pick your self a proper jack. Below is a good jack that you should be using. Has a long handle to keep you out of the fall zone.
www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-rapid-pump-floor-jack-56624.html?_br_psugg_q=floor+jack
Your thumbnail text is off. You're not doing a new drivetrain, you're doing the front suspension.
Despite changes to the A-arms, the suspension isn't really changing. The core of this job is just a replacement and upgrade to the stock steering knuckle. When the stock one was designed Detroit was new to making Front wheel drive and had never made such a robust IFS FWD unit before. They got better in later years. Particularly relating to the knuckle assembly.
@@IndustriousPursuits so your not going to change the upper bushings and ball joints? What about the tie rods? Might as well do it all while its apart.
I'm doing the whole thing. Just like you did. (I think, we'll see) Great work BTW! Keep it up!
I tried to find data on the gmc motorhome on the internet: either I'm too stupid to do so, or it's the wrong search! generally one can and should search worldwide: but even there I find rather little!
funny: they were fat for 5 years, right?
do you have documents for the gmc motorhome? I'm looking for construction sheets with dimensions and basic construction information!
I've already searched the cad forums: negative - no one has ever done anything there! as if the car didn't even exist!
if i find measurements somewhere - the pictures are too small that you can no longer make the measurements visible, legible: that's awesome!
the gmc motorhome was only in production for 5 years - then it was apparently discontinued. if I don't find something else, then I give up: it's probably just not worth it.
why did I end up here with you? I don't know - it's actually a coincidence! I'm looking for a vehicle that was built roughly like the gmc motorhome.
it has soul, a good structure: i really don't understand why something like this doesn't exist anymore! today looks like shit: all the same and the same-bad!
and to import something from america i also found something from canada - but it's just too expensive for me and too - yes, too unsafe. a lot of people offer something put together, which i can't check because i don't have any documentation! in addition, we have different road traffic approvals here in germany than in america. and also - yes import barriers.....
do you do cad it says so on your youtube page.....
So far I've been watching your second film: it's getting more and more interesting - but I think it'll probably be in vain!
then I have to do something new!
Greetings from Berlin, Germany
Uh oh, looks like your most recent video is missing! Hope it's nothing serious.
I've been doing the work on the current video and I realized that I never should have released that video. I was just trying to release a video every week. Anyway, nobody was watching that one and the next one will cover everything and more.
Also, it's just hidden: th-cam.com/video/1yazKBQ8hxg/w-d-xo.html
Ah! That's cool, I was just worried that it got flagged or something.
This is why people hate engineers (overcomplicating simple things) why not just splice the existing turn signal wires? 🤦♂️
th-cam.com/video/1yazKBQ8hxg/w-d-xo.html
@@IndustriousPursuits have you tried these? I'm a truck driver and I use these along my truck and trailer. Much simpler and cheaper
www.amazon.com/TCTAuto-Marker-Grommet-Miniature-Function/dp/B082HNXVHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4+marker+turn+signal&qid=1625708813&sr=8-3
You really like to complicate your life, Side marker are not the same as mirror blinker and there for doesn't follow under the same rules. All US build vehicle are blinking inverted on running lights. this is why the mirror lights is never a running light.
If you go with basic design (invert blink on running) just use a diode bridge for couple of cents. (and yes by law inverted blinking is consider synchronize.
If you really want to hole do your synchronize design.
you can use a dual color LED light, yes they are white on running lights and turn orange on bilking.
Or a dual diode with a resistor on one side, and create the dual intensity light.