Building the Best Damn GMC Motorhome Ever E.26 - Mistakes Were Made
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2021
- Big News! I got a large shop so I can work on the Motorhome all winter, indoors! But it's located in the Midwest, which means I've got to get this thing running and driving so that I can use it as a moving van. I've got less than 3 weeks. No time to waste, let's keep getting the mechanical issues solved.
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Welcome to the Midwest!
well, welcome to Mizzery! Better get crackin' on that RV since it's a 2-day drive to get anywhere worth going from here. Oh, and you'll be sorry you took the AC off the roof now for sure. You might even need to put TWO up there now to keep up. You'll at least be in good company here with Rob at Aging Wheels.. You'll have to come by sometime and visit us at das Bushaus in The Hill!
When you use red thread locking compound it will set up HARD. So hard you'll need to heat the parts to turn the compound to ash before you'll be able to remove the fasteners. I learned this directly from a Permatex representative. Blue thread locker is about as deep into the thread locker Forrest as I go. Red means stop and consider if you'll be able to apply heat at all. If you wouldn't be able to heat it up sufficiently to turn the red thread locker to ash then don't use red. Thread locker products cure in the presence of iron ions. You can't apply it and then come back and retorque it. The thread locker will have cured and you will have a heck of a time getting it to move. And if you do you'll have sheared the locking compound defeating what your objective is in the first place. Apply thread locking compound and torque the fastener to the desired torque value.
Congrats on the new home base! I hope the area is perfect for you guys. Little man is too adorable. In 20 + years you'll look back on on these videos and being able to show your grandkids what their dad was like when he was little
First, brake fluid can be washed off with water if you do it quickly. Second, run the appropriate tap into that stripped hole before installing a bolt. Third, put a flat washer under the head of the bolt to modify how much comes out the other end.
When in doubt on a GMC motorhome, ask Jim Bounds!
Great video. Have fun on your move and welcome to the Midwest. When you get to doing the interior I would be glad to help you out. I own a upholstery shop in Wisconsin.
Don’t worry about welding up the hole and threading it just put a Helacoil
Congrats on the move. Brakes, tires, all rubber: vac/fuel/evap lines, block crossover, boost pump, rebuild carb, tighten up the steering bits & you can drive that thing anywhere. If you get stuck in CO, reach out. Oh, use non-ethanol fuel if possible.
Welcome to Missouri
Congrats on the move and location of suitable premises. Looking forward to the remaining episodes on fixing the GMC Motorhome.
What a pity with the stripped threads. Totally felt that sinking feeling in the stomach with you.
Congratulations again on the new house!
Thank you for sharing the good with the bad. IE your mis-haps on the installs and brake bleeding (and Loctite).
So this will be great for your channel. Looking forward to the adventure….. will it make it over the Rockies? Will it make it to Missouri? What challenges will you overcome? Que the dramatic music.
That TRIP will be great content! Should partner with Vice Grip Garage LOL
I think 75 ft/lbs may be the wrong spec for that bolt, it's a pretty small diameter bolt to be torquing that much. I think that's why it stripped. I am not sure where you got the spec but even factory manuals can be misleading. I just dealt with one on a car I am restoring that called for 200 ft/lbs but the bolt (diamater and grade) was rated to 130ft/lbs max and really needed somewhere between 65-90 (no official spec so I went with 90 since it's the same grade and diameter as a wheel stud). These are smaller than wheel studs so I can't see the spec being 75 ft/lbs.
Ps. Love the channel keep up the good work!
Good luck with your big move! That’s super exciting to be getting a shop big enough to protect the Motor Home. I’m looking forward to seeing the new place, how your drive goes, and all your future adventures.
I originally lived in the St. Louis area, moved to Florida at 38 (8 years ago.) If you're on the IL side it's more flat, the Missouri side has a ton of rivers though. It also gets crazy hot in the summer, along with crazy cold in the winter. Good car people in the area though, you may find some willing to help out.
Hey, new adventures! You'll be close to good BBQ and blues. Best wishes.
Wishing you and your family the best of luck on your move!
U can cut the door in half and have steps on door bottom n top half lifted up ...
There's a company called "Performance Suspension Technology" that sells sway bar, "A" frame and other mounts and bushings that are made out of Polygraphite that do not need to be lubricated. I used them when i rebuilt the front end on my GTO. Been about six years now with no problems.
13:12 They are called "pincers".
When doing any work that you want to make sure run taps in holes and dies on threads. Made the mistake once installed a transmission and while putting the torque converter bolts in OPS a dummy did not due what he should have done.
yeah thoe PU kits from energy suspension are the best. a great innovation coming from the motorsports industry.they also do PU replacement parts for other traditionally rubber components such as engine mounts, and also elsewhere in the suspension. maybe PU is also possible for many other places which would traditionally be a thick rubber including exhaust hangers too. i recently fitted one of their anti roll bar kit to my vehicle just last year. and while i did use their supplied sticky grease (which seems to be something like a silicone based adhesive that does not ever set)... well that is not the only thing you should use to avoid the sqeeaking. because that really sticky stuff will attract grease and eventually go bad. depending how bad the weather conditions long before the PU does. what i found here on youtube was some guy shows you should wrap the PU parts in a layer of PTFE plumbers tape. well i did both those things just to be sure... it probably still wont last forever but having the 2nd thing there might avoid me having to redo it quite so soon. and just have an extra thing to keep skipping on, even once grit gets in there. however if you have already fitted yours now then would not be so inclined to be redoing it now. so nevermind about that until it actually starts squeaking and annoying you
only one more piece of advice to give... i have torque wrenches here too and like to go be torque specs if possible. but for specifically on rusted and corroded critical bolts. or with any old unknown original parts.... you really need to be using a modern impact driver / impact wrench instead. because it really is the case that regular hand tools will end up causing a much higher risk of damage. you can use other tricks like heating, or chemicals whatever. but those measures are still not as low risk as using a modern impact tool. its jut the physics of it all really... and no getting around that.
of course when reassembling you are in a different situation. with more options. but i would still recommend considering using an impact tool just as one of those range of tightening options. if reassembling back into something that is original / old if it remains pretty fragile. to be kinder to it. and yeah not always suitable choice there, depending if the power tool is actually knowable and capable of re-tightening to an approximately the needed torque. but its still a useful option to have on the table
Awesome video as always. A bunch of mixed work in. Love your explanations and thinking out loud attitude. Also happy to see the tekton horseshoe thing getting used. Share a short blog clip on the road to the new place. Need to find you on Instagram I guess. As usual keep up the good work
That place you mention inside the motorhome as "the cab", is The Bridge. You are the Commander (Commander Riker?).
You could heli-coil the stripped hole in that flange where it sits. You'd need to pull the axle but the flange could stay in place.
Yeah but don’t you torque all the suspension bolts when under load !
Heli coil.
Do you have part numbers for those sway bar links an bushings?
Time to consider going beyond the norm: I know that back panel has to be getting you thinking, right? Make a telescoping slide out.
Welcome to the midwest... you learn to cross thread that stripped bolt and call it a day.
Is it hybrid
Are u planning to make that hybrid rv. Electric motor on back axle
This is an idea that's been tossed around for several years. At some point in the distant future I could see converting the whole thing to electric.. I own a Tesla and I love this supercharger network. It's very dependable. The charging network if you're not a Tesla owner is very poor.
Wow...kinda strange..relocating for a motorhome rebuild...??? Also St. Louis ??? Have you been there lately...good luck. That said love the content.
I've been trying to find any reasonable way to get a decent sized detached shop for me to work out of. This search has been going on for like 2 years. Here in the PNW, it costs more to rent a 30'x50' shop than I spend to rent our house with the 2 car garage. Any property around here with a pole barn now costs at least $600,000 and you have to make the offer on it the day it gets posted and offer $50,000 more than the asking price. Instead, we found a pole barn with a nice house on 2 acres outside of a great town close to family for only $190,000. It's not just for the motorhome. I do other work too.
the new bolt was to short - stop - no good
Use Helicoil