5 SKINCARE ACIDS | How to use, recommended brands, explained by dermatologist
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2020
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For more information on skin care tips & hacks, together with product reviews, & recommendations
Skin acids are a group of molecules that can help a myriad of skin conditions.
ALPHA hydroxy acids
AHAs include lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic & citric acid. Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, lactic acid can be found in sour milk (oldest peel), whilst citric acid is derived from fruits; hence the blanket name of ‘fruit peels’. (For those who love organic skin care)
Uses: Glycolic acid can be useful in the management of acne, blackheads, whiteheads. BHA are better as salicylic acid is both anti-inflammatory and oil soluble. AHAs can be useful in the management of sun damage, wrinkles, pigmentation & as a primer to aid delivery of other acids, & actives like retinol- retinoids.
Concentrations: 2-30%, creams, gels, lotions, washes. Start slow, increase as tolerated.
Careful: If you have rosacea, sensitive skin, dermatitis
Azelaic acid
This is an organic acid found in wheat, barley and rye, however this acid is manufactured in a lab environment
Works by 1.Killing bacteria 2. Keratolytic 3. Reduces pigmentation - tyrosinase inhibitor 4. Anti-inflammatory
Uses - Acne, rosacea, pigmentation.
Concentrations: Typically 5-15/20%. Concentrations less than 15% are less irritating cf higher concentrations.
Careful: High concentrations. Most benign acid to use. Good for inflamed skin, acne in pregnancy, mild rosacea, some forms of pigmentation (melasma).
Ascorbic acid
Also known as Vitamin C. pH 2.5-3.5 for highest bioavailability. Potential to cause skin irritation in higher concentrations.
Works by
Antioxidants reduce UV induced DNA damage. Free radical scavenger
Anti-pigment works as a tyrosinase inhibitor
Stimulation of fibroblasts to produce dermal collagen
Caution: Sensitive skin, rosacea. For patients who have this skin type, start at 10% and SLOWLY increase as tolerated.
Retinoid acid
Vitamin A derivative. Arguably the most beneficial skin care active as prescribed by physicians & dermatologists.
Works by 1.Decreasing sebum or oil 2.Anti-inflammatory 3.Anti -bacterial 4. Helps normalize skin shedding 5.Reduces wrinkles by stimulating collagen production.
Caution: sensitive skin, titrate accordingly.
How to start? Retinol over retinoids unless prescribed by your doctor. Typical retinol concentrations range from 0.5 to 2.0%.
Kojic Acid
Is widely used in Asia to improve skin clarity, by reducing pigmentation. This acid is a naturally occurring compound derived from #fungus. (Obviously purified so don't worry, your face won’t be taken over by fungi).
Mode of action: Tyrosinase inhibitor, decreasing #melanin production.
Clinical application: Melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, brown sunspots.
Best applied: At night. If tolerated twice a day. As with all prescription skin care, start slowly, increase as tolerated.
How to use: Best compounded by a pharmacist and prescribed by a dermatologist. Ideally Kojic acid works best with combination therapy.
Caution: Kojic acid has a high sensitizing potential and hence used in caution in patients with sensitive skin, or inflammatory skin conditions such as #eczema, and seb #dermatitis
More on my Instagram account @drdavinlim
Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist, Brisbane.
Australia
Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work consists of surgery, injections, lasers & scary peels- procedures. Skin care advice is given as a general maintenance post procedure or in the context of treating conditions whereby topicals are indicated- example melasma. For topical monotherapy, consider seeing a general practitioner or general dermatologist. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Watching this channel feels like getting a free derma consultation while in quarantine. Thank you, doctor!
Chicken is Destiny He’s doing a service to the society! I think people should rely on dermatologists more than blindly following other people’s skin care routines with over expensive skin care products! Thank you Dr.Lin.
@@Xo_xi yes yes definetely a lot of learnings to apply on my channel
been following him for so long . Once you watch enough if a dr try to sell you things un necesaary you know how to say no and walk away .
Chicken is Destiny I agree he is great. I have been watching him for a couple of years and with his advice improved my skin immeasurably. I am 66 and I like to think I have good skin but Davin’s advice really up my game. Also I’ve not spent a fortune🥰
instaBlaster
Kojie San is a Filipino brand. It’s as Japanese as Olive Garden is Italian.
Yea I’m
I'm a new subscriber and am binge watching as many of your videos as I possibly can. I love the fact that you address issues other dermatologists don't, because you know the public is either doing them (needling) or confused about products, who needs what, etc.
So glad I found you and thanks so much for the information.
Could we see an update on your routine and procedures you use for yourself and a close up if you're comfortable sharing on what your skin concerns were and how you dealt with them. I have always visited your channel from time to time and can relate to it especially because of the skin concerns you've shared of those with brown skin or asian skin tones.
no matter what brands, i still stick to the ordinary cos the price is very affordable. and no bs ingredients, as well as fragrance free!
same . The inkey and timeless
Also vegan and cruelty free!!! Yayyy!
I'm not a vegan but i think as it's 2021 the cosmetics should be vegan and no doubt cruelty free.
Cool choice. 4years ago, I used Neostrata 15 also 20, couples of bottles done and the results was bullshit. Since then I stay away from that brand, waste of money and fancy for nothing.
Yeah I tend to stick to TO because I know across the board they're fragrance free and cruelty free. I used to pick through Revolution's serums (copied heavily from TO) and get some of them but some of theirs have fragrance so it's just easier...plus TO has a $30 free shipping limit which is amazing. I gotta spend $50 to get free shipping from major Australian places like Priceline or Chemist Warehouse.
That and Paula's Choice and QV are my two other staple brands. FF and CF.
Hi Dr. Lim! Loving the videos- they've been great viewings for bumping up my skincare game! Could I please ask if you might be amenable to doing a video on creating a video on skincare routines that incorporate acids and retinol please? Dos and don'ts, best efficacy practice, etc.? Would love to hear from a qualified dermatologist! Thanks so much for the content! 😊
My mum suffered from pigmentation all her life and was not aware that there was a simple drug store trick to get rid of it. Thanks to Dr Davin's by mum's pigmentation has significantly reduced after watching his videos on pigmentation. She feels so much more confident and beautiful! Thank you sooo muchhh Dr Davin! You have no idea how much of an impact you have made, and continue to make!
I'm a tech person but your channel makes me wish I went to study dermatology xd If my highschool chemistry profs were only 10% this good at teaching ...
Would you consider doing a full AM/PM routine? Using both expensive and drug store products.
Jaina Ahuja agreed ☝️
Yes, please!
From the Ordinary: AM peptides and Vit B; PM Vit C & A. Vit B and C together not advised, as Vit B may neutralize Vit C...this is what I was told. Any confirmation is welcome :)
S F I question the vit c & b together
@@joansmith6844 Yes, I was in fact told to avoid them together.
I was expecting something on salicylic! Great video thanks!
Hi Dr Great stuff you teach ! Please talk about copper peptides.
Hello Dr davin, can you speak on zinc and its relation to the skin. Really love your videos, very good information.
Hey Dr Davin! You are so nice!!
What do you think about Hada Labo? I will probably buy their brightening lotion...
Love these! My favorite channel on TH-cam by far thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I appreciate your knowledge and honesty. Definitely my go to place for information. Keep safe and well. 🙏🤗🇦🇺
Thank you so much for this information! I’m new to acids and was a little lost when finding the right ones for me... you’re going to make us all beautiful
Nice seeing you again! Thank You!
Thank you. This was so informative. Im really just starting to learn about skincare and this helped me so much. I even took notes.
Wow, that was the most informative video I've ever seen on this topic. You just got a new subscriber Doc. 😉👍🇨🇦
Thank you for clarifying the mind field out there.. now that so many of these are available and just choosing is OVERWHELMING .. a brilliant vlog ... Ill be tuning in again.. from an ex-pat Australian
As always, outstanding educational video/info. You’re a GREAT teacher! THANK YOU for sharing your precious time, research, & knowledge with us all! Hugs & Blessings 2U😊
Would you consider addressing lactic acid? Thank you! I have really been enjoying your content over the past few years!
Love the educational video! Thanks so much! I use retin A at night and have taken to using polyhydroxy acids a few times a week. They are a great yet gentle addition to my routine without over-exfoliating.
Dr. Lim, love your videos, I’m a big fan! Always so enlightening💗
Thank you so much for your great advice and clarification to explain the difference on which product does what ! As well as the price tag ! 👌🏽
This truly added to my homework in learning about acids so I can choose products and be careful to my skin in treating my dark spots and acne. Thank you so much, Doc Davin! 😊
Thank you for the info! Hope y'all are staying safe and relatively sane. ♡
Yes! Thank you for this❤️
Dr. Lim, this video was super helpful. Can you please post a part 2 to this one on the other acids you mentioned? Thank you! 🙏🏽🙌🏽
Hi Dr Lim, I'm wondering if you could make a video with what to expect at a dermatologist consultation. I had an appointment and was disappointed so I would love to hear what a good consultation is supposed to be like
Yes, please! Continue with the explanation of acids 🤗
Thank you again Dr Lim. Could you please do an updated list of any at home devices you would recommend?
Very informative💪🏼❤️ Can I use retinol serum Tuesdays and Fridays .. also glycolic acid on Sundays? If I do that, can I use vit c serum every day/BID?
Hi Doc from Vietnam , I have been watching your videos for years . I love all of your videos . May I ask , can I use azelic acid with tretinol ?
This was theeeee BEST lecture I have ever attended! Thank you Doc for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you. It's really easy to understand and great explaination.
Thank you for covering SkinCeuticals' CE Ferulic :)
love love love this channel.So informative and you explain things so well!
Would love to hear some possible full skincare routines from you. How do we use all these acids safely?
I usually use SOME kind of acid 1-2 times per day. And in addition, I use .1% tretinoin every night. I still have acne, and I also think I’ve over-exfoliated because I can cause very dry and red patches, especially around my mouth and nose.
But when I lighten up on the glycolic, my acne gets worse. I tried to swap out the glycolic half the week with lactic or a PHA toner, but again- it makes my acne worse. Thanks for all your expertise!
Thank you for such an informative video, I found it really interesting. Would you consider doing a video on your thoughts of Alpha Lipoic Acid please.
I saved this video in my favorites, thanks Doctor !
Wonderful video thank you. Can’t wait for the next one 😊
Very good video Dr! Congrats!
56 and varicose veins on my nose. I love a warm washcloth for washing my face but might else cause this? Love these skin care videos ! So informative for this Canuck :)
Are you sure they are varicose veins? That seems a little strange, most peoole have dilated capillaries on their face if anything.
Hi David, as always so informative. I use Ren, Bio Retinoid concentration oil as my introduction to Retinol. What would be my next step up and is this a good starter?
Hi Dr Lim! Wondering what you would recommend for people dealing with hard water?
👍🤗👏😁👌🙌 Thank 'you' so very much for your continued and genuine care in sharing
such important information.
You explain things very well. It’s simple and easy to digest the information. Thank you
Hi Doctor, this is Christine from France. I love your videos and recommendations, which are really helpful. You are miles above my French dermatologist !!
Which acid would you recommend for an aging, sagging and oversensitive skin. I am sixty now and would like to keep a fresh appearance, but the years are taking their toll... A simple AM and PM routine would be deeply appreciated !! Thanks !
Christine Carre do you ever watch “Hot and Flashy” channel? She has excellent advice too for over 50
Brilliant! Thanks, Dr Lim!
Thank you so much for educating us like this!
Nicely presented! Good job! ❤️👍
Hello Dr Lim, Thank you for all your videos they are great! I have one question regarding body acne, KP and enlarged blocked pores on entire body.
Dr, is it possible and beneficial to apply the double cleanse method using a all over cleansing oil that emulsifies to help clear clogged pores on the body?
Also, is it safe and beneficial to add crushed aspirin ( salicylic acid) to a body wash/shower gel to gain a better skin texture and exfoliate? (cant afford expensive treatments)
If not ,what about using aspirin mixed into a paste to form a body scrub? Lots of questions I know.
Thank you for your time. Stay Safe
Thanks Doc Lim, for this info, i have to cancell my kojic soap i ordered. I have to listen to you than a friend who recommend it. Have a good day
Seriously love your content. Good job mate thank you for every one of your videos
Acids are always confusing, thanks for this video it helps a lot! What acid do you recommend for a mature very dry skin with few break out - glycolic or lactic acid?
Dr. Lim - How would you assess Murad skin care products? Also, does a prescription of retinol-a micro expire? A have a tube, but rarely used it because it irritated my skin. Meanwhile, thank you for explaining the various acids. The product recommendations are very helpful too❗️
1, informative for common person 2. simple and clear. 3. information types and written down for us 5. for other doctors and cosmetologist also its important information
if you've got dry acne-prone skin and struggle with acne scarring mandelic acid works wonders. My skin always looks so much better after using it and I can even notice the difference in my skin after a few hours.
I can definitely agree. I've been using the one from the Ordinary and have had really great results so far
This video has been very helpful, thank you Doctor.
your vids are such a relief from all misinformations among youtube skincare product reviews and recommendations. I have saved a lot, hehe thank you so much Doc Davin.
Love from the Philippines:-)
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Great info! I just did a TCA peel (20%), What do you recommend using after one?
Dr. Lim, you are the best!!!!! Take care! Saludos desde México 😉
Thank you Dr Lim so far I have followed your instructions and I can see improvements on my melasma except for x2 spots that are big as my little finger print. But I'll keep doing it it's been a month in lock down and thought I'd concentrate on my skin. Thank you once again
Sandra Rovira can you tell me what products you’ve been using?
Thank you so much for your expertise ❤️❤️❤️
This was so informative! Thank you :) Stay safe
Thank you sooo much Dr. Davin...
I'm a med student with a passion for the dermatology science, please could you do a video explaining how do you approach a atrophic acne scars, specifically the invasive method to get rid of them ( I saw one of your videos where you were using a neddle kind instrument under the patient skin , but I never fully understanded lol)
Sorry for my english, I'm from South America.
I am loving this guy. Very informative.
Addicted to your videos! Can you please do a video on [ Hypo]pigmentations that’s not vitiligo🙏🏽
Dr. Davin, I love your videos they are very educational. I struggle with malasma tried dozens of products and laser treatments and nothing work. Is there a particular treatment you can recommend?
Thank you so so much! Your skincare advice is amazing!
thank you dr. Lim. i really enjoyed and appreciated with all of your videos about skin care and treatment. in the next video could you please sharing about tranexamic acid? because i rarely see a video about it.
What products would you recommend for Keratosis Pillaris?? 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hello Dr. thanks so much for your videos. I’ve learned a lot from you. Would you recommend Adapalene for acne only, or as anti-aging/hyperpigmentation as well? Ty in advance
pilum78: The retinoic acid, Adapalene, was developed for acne control; however, like other retinoic acids, it also has photoaging benefits too. 👏 😃
The negative side of glycolic acid is that it makes de skin more sensitive to the sun, more exactly to the UVB rays. In other words, it can increase the amount of sun damage from UVB rays if you dont use sunscreen like a vampir around 1g 3 times per day. Instead of AHA i prefer to use PHA, you can use it everyday, day and night and even under retinol or ascorbic acid or other anti age ingredients.
Incredible video, thank you!!
Thanks for this video! Where do you recommend azelaic acid go in the routine? And can it be used in the same routine as aha or BHA or retinol? Thanks!
Good question. Does it take the place of your glycolic, or is it in addition to?
Love the education!! EV. ER. RE. TIME!!!! 🙏🏻 thank you.
I have milia under my eyes, what products do you recommend to use? thank you!
Thank you for making this!
Thank you for these videos! 👏🏼💖
Hello. Thanks for the advice!! Wondering what is the difference between retinol and tretinoin (vitamin A I think)
Love this video.
Do you have any tips for dealing with lichen planus pigmentation and scarring?
6. Also your recomendation of products is like assurance. thanks
I Use my kojic San soap in my evening Routine with Ascorbic acid from ordinary and I honestly thing it’s works on me.
I use Retin A .5 nightly with no issues for the last 8 months and have subscription boxes so have tried a lot of skincare over the last 18 months. I have fair skin but not sensitive skin. Never had an issue with any products which is why I was surprised when The Ordinary AHA peeling solution a few weeks ago that made me peel like a snake for weeks. Then I tried The Ordinary vitamin C which broke my skin out with an acne like rash all over that has taken almost two weeks to fade and it’s still not completely healed. But they were more like water blisters than acne. I’ve learned my non reactive skin can react! I might add I am in my 50s and my skin has always been a bit dry.
Yay 😀 thank you, Dr. Lim!
Thanks so much. Love the information.
Hi dr Lim, I’ve recently discovered your channel and although I’ve been doing a lot of my own reading up on dermatology recommendations as well as some scientific studies, I just wanted to tell you how amazing and simple your vlogs are! If I’m in QLD - will make sure I come for a consult! 👏🏼 I’m using CE ferulic acid daily and want to add in the ordinary Hyaluronic. I use a prescription retinoid at night. How do I add in Hyaluronic into this regime? Also, can you please discuss the use of oral supplements like hydrolysed collagen and Hyaluronic acid for skin care? I still can’t make up my mind based on what I found myself
I was wondering if you have ever heard of the brand Shiseido? What are your thoughts on that brand? Also are you against products who add alcohol high on their list of ingredients? Thanks!
Dr Lim, i used skinceuticals retinol 0. 5 for a week or 2 with biologique recherche p50 pgm 400 lotion. My face was irritated so i stopped the retinol. Im waiting for my differin gel, can i use it together with the BR p50t or p50 pgm 400? Thank you doctor lim
This was so very educational and did not put me to sleep! Lol. I am a new subscriber and find your presentations fascinating. I am 68 and have great skin but have severe wrinkles on the right side of my face bc I am a side-sleeper. I recently bought a dropper bottle of 100% pure Hylauronic acid and the results are staggering. IS IT SAFE IN THAT FORM ? Also I have a bottle of 100% Retinol (?) coming from the same pharmaceutical company...IS USE OF THAT PRODUCT SAFE? TY so much for all you do for us here !
I ❤️ your channel- you are amazing! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! 🌸🌼🌻
Thank you 😊 for all the good information, I am getting better and better at taking care of my skin
love all your content!! can i use a moisturizer containing AHA (Glow recipe watermelon sleeping mask), then apply differin gel a few hours later right before bed? my skin isn’t sensitive and i get mild breakouts. thanks so much for any help!!
Thanks so much a big help!!!!
Kojie San is a Filipino brand, not Japanese but the brand logo is a Japanese woman. The soap doesn’t work that great for pigmentation but it does lighten and brighten the skin. It’s great for acne-prone oily skin actually.
Brilliant info again thank you! You mention to put on a moisturiser half an hour after using a prescription retanoic acid if you have sensitive skin. I don't have this and I put on moisturiser straight after putting on the Retrieve cream. Does moisturiser dilute Retrieve? Thanks :)
Hello from Germany. :-) What do you think of the UK-brand TIMELESS skincare, acids and serums? I would like to try it out and wonder whether these products are worth the money!?
Starlight I’ve used their Vitamin C, & I personally think the formulation is very good! Haven’t tried any of their other products yet! Hope that helps some!😊
Timeless is actually an US brand :-)
So, other than the retinoic acid, the rest are safe to use in SUMMER and when exposed to sun?
Also, how effective are they when included in products like toners, foam cleansers etc. or should we only look at creams and serums?
Thanks Doc!