Thanks Tamar. I bought this system several years ago and I just couldn’t get the set up to work. Using your great detailed explanation, I’m going to take my iPad down to the shop & use your presentation to install these much needed devices on my tablesaw. Thanks a lot. You are a great woodworker!
Did you measure the 2inches on the inside, middle,or outside of the blade? Could be a small detail that could change the accuracy. BTW, excellent instructional on a real pain as far as their instructions goes.
I also have a Dewalt contractor table saw this has been very helpful for me to make my life more safe and my time in my shop/ garage more fun thanks for all you do
For anyone wanting to do woodwork, this channel is so filled with amazing inspiration and awesome projects. Could you do a tour of your shop and show us how you've set it all up, some history of what you got first etc., and what you're missing? I feel you have tons of smart tricks in setting up a good shop just laying around. Anyways, cool video as always :)
You legend! Having just bought a dewalt table saw and after losing sleep for two nights trying to work out what I was doing wrong, you show me the solution. Despite having my blade at 90 degrees I kept on getting little slivers of light on one edge of the cut. I’ll spend the day making a zero insert. Thank you so much.
Safety is good. And that little savings you get each time you don't have to break out the hand plane or jointer to straighten that edge really adds up. Thanks for doing the tl;dr for us.
My 1980's Sears contractors saw doesn't have a riving knife and the splitter and guard are usually off when I make cuts because it doesn't align correctly and blocks the wood because that kerf is not aligned. I've see these add on splitters but actually seeing it installed and used is helpful. Thank you.
Truly excellent content and a perfect example why you’ll continue to do well. Do wish you had expanded on difference between splitter and riving knife as the difference between blade and splitter is quite variable dependent upon blade height so safety aspect is very different whether blade at full height or lower. It’s a big point beginners might not recognize.
Excellent. Here is a helpful tid bit. I have a Ridgid job site saw. The metal plate (like your original) accomodates 90 degree and angled cuts - but not zero clearance. I bought the "Fastcap" zero clearance tape, useful for miter saws, table saws (like mine) and router fences (as needed). When on TH-cam type in Fastcap zero clearance tape. You can see its usefullness. I bought mine from Lee Valley for $6.00 and feel it is very much worth the price. My saw plate (no lie) is slightly BELOW the saw table (WTF?) not sure why, but in this case it worked to my benefit because the tape made the plate flush to table! Thank you for this video (explained very well). The Microjig instructions made my head spin for my "yellow" set (thin kerf). Have a great afternoon.
Thanks so much Tamar. I had a kickback incident, for the first time, a couple of years ago. I had no idea how dangerous table saws could be and how careless i had been for so many years. I've only just (this week) mustered the courage to do something about making my saw safer, so i can continue this awesome hobby. The first fix was making a zero clearance plate. Seconds after this video, i ordered the MJ Splitter system. Can't wait to start ripping timber with confidence again.
With due respect, splitter is not a replacement to riving knife. This is sponsored video for Microjig. Get yourself a sturdy riving knife to be on safer side.
Thank you so much for this video. I installed my MJ splitter after actually talking directly to the guy at the company who does the tech support. I have a powermatic 66 with phenolic inserts, that need a little more set up for drilling. I have to redo a plate after resetting my table to a better calibration to the blade, so this reminder of the process was helpful. I love your channel!
You brought up a really good point about the tension and how your saw will stop. The big cabinet saws have so much more power that they would easily shoot the board back on you. I saw those little Kerf things before but your install really helped explain how they work. 👌
Thank you, Tamar. I have slight conundrum: using a 7 1/4 blade in 10 inch table saw. The kerf for the blade thickness is 2/32nds for 7 1/4 and 3/32nds for the 10 inch blade. It does not appear Microjig has a 2/32nd option for their kits. There are some benefits to using a 7 1/4 blade for certain applications. Hope this might be of interest to you for some future video project. Thank you, again. -Paul
Even though I have a number of MicroJig accessories, I had never seen this one until this video. I bought an old Delta Unisaw without a riving knife or blade guard and have been looking for a solution. Last week I was resawing some QS white oak that had enough tension to completely bind up the 3hp motor and scare the hell out of me - luckily because of the Grrripers, I didn't get a kickback or other disaster. This will be a huge help - just placed my order. Thanks for the great video!
I had the same set up on my saw for several years. I have since moved over to a Shark Guard. My saw did not have a splitter or riving knife so this was a huge upgrade. I still use the Leecraft insert with microjig splitter for certain situations. You did a great job explaining the microjig set up instructions.
Very interesting solution. I have the same saw and made an insert from scratch which allows the use of the original riving knife. I was surprised you had gone with a purchased product since you make so many cool custom fixtures. Great video as always!
Thanks. Yeah. 2 reasons why I decided to purchase. 1) time. Ha. 2) the table saw is super dangerous. I wanted something that I knew would be truly reliable. I don’t take my fingers for granted. Ha
Good video. I have a ‘93 Unisaw and is from before riving knife’s were used. I have the normal kerf MJ splitters but haven’t installed them yet. Now that I’ve seen your video I have no excuses. My understanding of the kerf keepers’ purpose was to, how to say, go with the board. Tension keeps it in the kerf through the cut thereby keeping the kerf open. Because of this one can continue the cut vs what you said (stop the cut and figure out another way to do the cut). If I am right it seems an important distinction.
Hey Tamar, I also bought the exact same zero clearance plate. I discovered a very cool trick to make additional ones. When using a template bit on your router to duplicate the plate, you can back the side adjustment screws out ever so slightly beyond where they would need to be for a tight fit on your saw. Then when you duplicate the plate the bearing will trace around the screw and leave a little wooden nub on the side of the copy. You can then sand those nubs down for a perfect friction fit. I used this to make a plate that will accept the riving knife, dado stacks, etc. then my main plate has the micro jig splitters.
I'll be purchasing this soon. I THINK I should be able to use the saws original riving knife. I'm thinking if I just make a tiny notch in the back of the riving knife to leave more material on the zero clearance insert for rigidity (very tiny amount but it's something). I'm just spitballing at the moment. Before I get too far ahead of myself I have that combo Dewalt 10" with stand. I've also purchased a thin kerf Freud blade, so I'm also seeing if I can use the factory riving knife with that blade. I'm hoping with the zero clearance insert and modified riving knife... that I'll bring life to this saw because it's frustrating how much "out of tune" it is. Even the table is waving at me lol. I can't wait to get the saw in a workbench or cart to itself because the stand it came with is a total tripping hazard!!!
Very helpful tips. I am new to woodworking and want to do this. I am guessing DeWalt didn't like this idea. Every place I have looked online is out of stock. I guess I will have to attempt making my own. Thanks for the video. Very helpful
Great video. Thanks. The splitter looks like a pain to get just right despite your excellent instructions. Couldn’t you extend the slot cut in the insert through the back of the insert to accommodate the saws riving knife?
Thanks. It wasn’t too bad. The instructions on the insert said i could not extend the cut for the riving knife on this saw. Probably bc I would have to cut all the way through and would mess with the structural integrity of the insert
Thanks much for demonstrating the install!! Been thinking about this kind of splitter (because the one I have now won't allow for partial thickness cuts at all) for a while now and you just convinced me that it's not as difficult to install as the directions look. Yikes.
The husky tool chest behind you , I have the exact same one . I have a General cabinet style saw and the recess in the table is only 1/4 inch deep so I have to use a good piece of hardwood to make them . Thanks and stay safe.
Amazing Tamar! Thks to that I completely designed an adjustable, PLA made zero clearance insert especially for this table saw, with integrated splitter and kerf keeper, lock mechanism etc! I would be happy to ship one to you with other stuff I made also for the dewalt table saw! (For free of course)
I have the same setup except for a Bosch. I find the MicroJig kerfkeeper to be a PITA it’s just not precise enough- or rugged enough when starting the milling process....so what I do is turn off saw at first sign of binding, and jam a shim shingle in the kerf to keep it open and finish the cut. We buy kiln dried S2S and typically cut everything oversized and let it sit for a week or more before final sizing - just cull anything that gets too wacky. The Bosch is underpowered but easy to get to Jobsites so we make it work.
Cool, I had looked at these in the past and my understanding was the kerf keeper was slightly wider and would get stuck in the board every cut. As that sounded like a pain, I resorted to turning my saw so it faced the garage door, and not the windows! Lol kickback is no joke. I may have to revisit this as an option.
Ha. Good planning. 😂 the kerf keeper is actually thinner then the splitters and will only lift when there is actual tension on boards. Showing you that it it not safe to cut instead of feeling it and then kickback occurring.
@@3x3CustomTamar that makes alot more sense, it's going on the wish list! Furthermore, I can't recall if you use a feather board? If not the level of cut control they offer is incredible... They even make them in yellow to match your saw 😜
I've got the same saw and had some tension in a board i was cutting last weekend. It made me a bit nervous to continue cutting and everything turned out ok but i still wish i'd had this setup! I'll definitely be doing this upgrade! Also, i never knew about the stock throat plate causing the cut to be off. Thanks for the informative video!
Glad you found it informative! Yeah. I might be a bit too meticulous but I always found some parts of my cuts to be slightly off even if my Blade was set to 90. It took me a while to figure out what he problem was.
I just installed this and drilling into my Leecraft zero insert was difficult with the provided drill bit. The Leecraft zero insert is made of a very dense plastic polymer and the bit get extremely hot and impossible to drill through in one plunge. I have mostly thin kerf saw blades but one very nice Forrest 1/8" blade that will need an additional MJ Splitter 1/8" $40 kit. In hindsight, I should have just bought a riving knife but I would need to make a cutout in my insert to accommodate that. Probably less time to do that than this whole MJ Splitter install. I also need to pull these out to use the full table saw top for measuring something like a 24" wide whatever. It seem this is a very niche product.
OMG Installing this riving knife thingamajig is soo complicated! This should be improved somehow. Once completed this seems to work as advertised... Thnx, Willem
Sounds like a way more convenient method than I use. I use a tile setting wedge while cutting, in conjunction with my riving knife. I keep a stack of them in my 'fence caddy'. This sounds like a more reliable alternative. Thanks!
Great video! You covered and explained a few items that I've been struggling with recently! I'm just getting serious about woodworking (finally!!!). I've noticed that my cuts on the tablesaw are wonky as you demonstrated. So, I'm more motivated to get started on the zero clearance throat plate for more reason than the cool factor now. You really explained and demonstrated that well! I have a piece of cedar ready to cut and shape tomorrow! Super video! Thanks for the help!
Thanks Tamar! Unfortunately, I cannot get a zero tolerance plate for my old and cheap table saw. So, I made one out of oak and included a built in separator. It works but is not ideal. Maybe it is time for a table saw upgrade!
Great video: Had a piece to get hung on stock insert. Saw threw it back at me as the piece broke off at a knot. Five stiches in left thumb and fractures bone later. Great job, Miss T.
@@3x3CustomTamar Miss T, you've done well with your videos. I've picked up several good ideas. If you and yours ever get to Nashville, TN, be sure and look us up. Wife and I live in Donelson, about 7 minutes to the airport.
Great video, thank you! I found it easier to follow than the included instructions as well. Would you please share which vix bit you used for this? I think mine is the wrong size to get the proper alignment.
Thanks for sharing Tamar, im just thinking, stock one is just cut through in orser to accomodate stock splitter. Why not to cut through this zero clearance one and use stock splitter? Upgrading insert makes sense for me i saw the nees after 10mins of using the saw but stock splitter seema to be fine
Another detailed, clear, and concise tutorial. Well done. I did have one question. Are the MJ splitters tall enough to rip thicker stock, like 1 ½" thick 2x4 or 2x6 boards? thanks, richard --
Hi! It might be that I missed a piece of basic info, but May I ask you where you bought the zero clearance insert? Just bought the splitter system from microjig, and made a few inserts myself - but I would like to compare them with one of even more stable material. Thank you, for both your work - and hopefully an answer:) My best, Lars, Oslo - Norway
I noticed in the thin-strip jig video that you were still using the stock plate, and it seemed like it wasn't causing you issues. Any chance you could do a quick tutorial on "survival strategies" for using a stock plate, or even just for people who may only have an imperfect tool collection?
Great video. Why not just set one offset towards fence as a feather board and the last one pushing away from blade? Best of both worlds and you never have to worry about binding?
Forgive me if it’s listed somewhere, but where Did you purchase this zero clearance insert? I have the same table saw. I recently made my own, but as you mentioned in one of your comments, it’s just not sturdy enough! Thanks for all of the great content!
splitting wedge is important because of risk of injury. if you want to cut a nut, the wedge disturbs, that's why I find the conversion kit a good idea. from German to English with googel tranzlator made since my English is not good 😧
Hi I was surprised when you started because you have the same saw as I have just purchased, I went out to my shed to check the saw and found that my saw came with a zero clearance insert, the only explanation I can think of is that I live in the UK or they have changed the insert they send out? nice video though.
Alas, Leecraft DW-2 zero clearance insert is nowhere to be found. Apparently they are far back in production. A vendor mentioned that perhaps they will be available in July. I made my own out of 1/2 inch MDF and another out of 1/2 inch plywood and they seem to be fitting well. Will now proceed to do install the microjig splitters using your video (you are the best!). I have the same table saw and want to buy some blades. I notice you are using Amana Mamba. How do you like it?
Just found your channel, as I was looking for a splitter since after having an incra fence system which didn't accommodate my rifing blade. What I an now interested in is your dial indicator. What type/brand is it?
Thanks Tamar. It's not a problem to extend the slot to accommodate a riving knife. Much safer than a splitter IMHO. I made a couple more for 30 & 45deg cuts. Surprised at how crappy the insert is, even on a DeWalt.
If it’s not a problem why would the instructions for the insert say i can’t use it for the dw745? I assumed it had something to do with cutting all the wa through the back. Yeah. The stock throat plate really sucks
@Larisa Ulkina Here's a glimpse of how to do it. You simply mark the widest point in the slot that the RK needs for clearance. Then place the new insert on top of original plate with blade extended up into new plate. Then butt fence up to new plate, turn on TB and slide new plate to the previously marked point. th-cam.com/video/T4H2t4fNpOg/w-d-xo.html
If I had seen this video a week ago, I could have saved myself a trip to the ER. Thankfully I didn't cut anything **off** but I sure cut a couple of fingers UP.
Hey great video. Do you know of any other zero insert plates other than leecraft? they are sold out (at least in canada) and I am not having any luck finding a replacement. Cheers.
Thanks so much for this very informative video. I love your table saw related videos because I have the same saw and so I know that if you can get something to work with it, then I can too. Thanks!!
I followed your instructions. Everything seemed to work okay. The test piece of 1/2 plywood fit perfectly. However, when I went to cut a piece of 3/4” plywood the splitter was too thick and would not allow the stock through to complete the cut. I purchased the 1/8” kerf set which is the thickness of my blade. I did not use the Kerf keeper as you did because I almost exclusively use soft wood. Any thoughts on why it didn’t work?
@@3x3CustomTamar Thanks so much for your response. It turns out that my blade was not a 1/8” kerf. I have ordered a new blade and that should solve the problem. Thanks again.
So with the zero clearance insert, does anyone else get a lot of sawdust on top of the work piece? Like so much that you cant fully work? I have dust collection under the saw with a shop vac, and nothing goes in anymore. Wondering what everyone else is doing. And how is this with your table saw sled? Thanks and enjoy your video!
I’ve been on vacation since I posted this video so haven’t gotten to use it much. But my first couple times I used it that didn’t seem to be an issue. If anything it reduced the amount of dust that came up on top
Thanks Tamar. I bought this system several years ago and I just couldn’t get the set up to work. Using your great detailed explanation, I’m going to take my iPad down to the shop & use your presentation to install these much needed devices on my tablesaw. Thanks a lot. You are a great woodworker!
Awesome! So glad it was helpful! Yeah. The instructions were a bit confusing. So I’m happy to have cleared it up!
@@3x3CustomTamar No problem. I posted it on my page, Coogan's Workshop, and linked it to MJ's page. I also posted it to their page too :-)
Jim Coogan awesome!
Did you measure the 2inches on the inside, middle,or outside of the blade? Could be a small detail that could change the accuracy. BTW, excellent instructional on a real pain as far as their instructions goes.
I also have a Dewalt contractor table saw this has been very helpful for me to make my life more safe and my time in my shop/ garage more fun thanks for all you do
Awesome
For anyone wanting to do woodwork, this channel is so filled with amazing inspiration and awesome projects. Could you do a tour of your shop and show us how you've set it all up, some history of what you got first etc., and what you're missing? I feel you have tons of smart tricks in setting up a good shop just laying around. Anyways, cool video as always :)
Really appreciate that! Maybe I’ll do a Q & A video soon
Bless you for making this. My brain was really hurting reading those instructions. So much clearer here.
You legend! Having just bought a dewalt table saw and after losing sleep for two nights trying to work out what I was doing wrong, you show me the solution. Despite having my blade at 90 degrees I kept on getting little slivers of light on one edge of the cut. I’ll spend the day making a zero insert. Thank you so much.
Hope it helps!
Your videos show that you are a talented and creative woodworker, but your charm and delivery are unsurpassed on TH-cam.
So nice to hear. Thanks! ☺️
I get so much out of your videos! Please don't ever stop doing what you're doing!
So awesome to hear!
Safety is good. And that little savings you get each time you don't have to break out the hand plane or jointer to straighten that edge really adds up. Thanks for doing the tl;dr for us.
Yeah. I hope it’s really going to improve my productivity and safety!
If I said it once, I’ve said it a thousand times. You ROCK! Thank you for all of these wonderful tips to help keep us safe.
Glad you like them!
Very well done and yes the instruction manual was confusing.I bought the unit today and after I read the manual I went searching for help. Thanks
Glad you found it useful! I hate reading instructions. Ha
So happy I've found you. You're a fountain of knowledge, and ideas.
So nice to hear. Thanks!
My 1980's Sears contractors saw doesn't have a riving knife and the splitter and guard are usually off when I make cuts because it doesn't align correctly and blocks the wood because that kerf is not aligned. I've see these add on splitters but actually seeing it installed and used is helpful. Thank you.
Awesome! Stay safe out there!
Truly excellent content and a perfect example why you’ll continue to do well.
Do wish you had expanded on difference between splitter and riving knife as the difference between blade and splitter is quite variable dependent upon blade height so safety aspect is very different whether blade at full height or lower. It’s a big point beginners might not recognize.
Thanks! Hmmm. Yeah, I don’t think it will be a problem when it’s at full height though
3x3Custom - Tamar absolutely correct. + & -‘s
Excellent. Here is a helpful tid bit. I have a Ridgid job site saw. The metal plate (like your original) accomodates 90 degree and angled cuts - but not zero clearance. I bought the "Fastcap" zero clearance tape, useful for miter saws, table saws (like mine) and router fences (as needed). When on TH-cam type in Fastcap zero clearance tape. You can see its usefullness. I bought mine from Lee Valley for $6.00 and feel it is very much worth the price. My saw plate (no lie) is slightly BELOW the saw table (WTF?) not sure why, but in this case it worked to my benefit because the tape made the plate flush to table! Thank you for this video (explained very well). The Microjig instructions made my head spin for my "yellow" set (thin kerf). Have a great afternoon.
Thanks so much Tamar. I had a kickback incident, for the first time, a couple of years ago. I had no idea how dangerous table saws could be and how careless i had been for so many years. I've only just (this week) mustered the courage to do something about making my saw safer, so i can continue this awesome hobby. The first fix was making a zero clearance plate. Seconds after this video, i ordered the MJ Splitter system. Can't wait to start ripping timber with confidence again.
Awesome! Good luck installing it!
With due respect, splitter is not a replacement to riving knife. This is sponsored video for Microjig. Get yourself a sturdy riving knife to be on safer side.
Best video I've seen on the topic. Very well produced.
Just did this exact thing 3 months ago and can not believe that I waited so long. Made my life sooooo much better.
Awesome! So glad I made the right choice!
Ha!! You seem to be making plenty of them. Thanks for the fun content. You are the top of the “fine work/job site saw” niche. Keep killing it Tamar.
Austin Veatch ha! Thanks so much! 🤘
Did not expect as much deformation as you got, may explain the problem I have been having. Any thanks so easy to watch as usual, cheers from NZ
Thank you so much for this video. I installed my MJ splitter after actually talking directly to the guy at the company who does the tech support. I have a powermatic 66 with phenolic inserts, that need a little more set up for drilling. I have to redo a plate after resetting my table to a better calibration to the blade, so this reminder of the process was helpful. I love your channel!
Awesome! So glad it was helpful!
Thanks for taking a complicated topic and presenting it in an easy to understand video. ❤️
Glad you liked it
You brought up a really good point about the tension and how your saw will stop. The big cabinet saws have so much more power that they would easily shoot the board back on you.
I saw those little Kerf things before but your install really helped explain how they work. 👌
Yeah. Kickback is no joke. Glad you liked the video!
Thank you, Tamar. I have slight conundrum: using a 7 1/4 blade in 10 inch table saw. The kerf for the blade thickness is 2/32nds for 7 1/4 and 3/32nds for the 10 inch blade. It does not appear Microjig has a 2/32nd option for their kits. There are some benefits to using a 7 1/4 blade for certain applications. Hope this might be of interest to you for some future video project. Thank you, again. -Paul
Even though I have a number of MicroJig accessories, I had never seen this one until this video. I bought an old Delta Unisaw without a riving knife or blade guard and have been looking for a solution. Last week I was resawing some QS white oak that had enough tension to completely bind up the 3hp motor and scare the hell out of me - luckily because of the Grrripers, I didn't get a kickback or other disaster. This will be a huge help - just placed my order. Thanks for the great video!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Way better instructions here than with the actual product.
Yeah. I was very confused. Ha
I had the same set up on my saw for several years. I have since moved over to a Shark Guard. My saw did not have a splitter or riving knife so this was a huge upgrade. I still use the Leecraft insert with microjig splitter for certain situations. You did a great job explaining the microjig set up instructions.
Never heard of the shark guard. I think this is going to be a good set up for now!
Very interesting solution. I have the same saw and made an insert from scratch which allows the use of the original riving knife. I was surprised you had gone with a purchased product since you make so many cool custom fixtures. Great video as always!
Thanks. Yeah. 2 reasons why I decided to purchase. 1) time. Ha. 2) the table saw is super dangerous. I wanted something that I knew would be truly reliable. I don’t take my fingers for granted. Ha
@@3x3CustomTamar Both excellent reasons!
Thanks so much for doing this. The instructions are so complicated! You made it easy.
Awesome. Glad you found it helpful
Good video. I have a ‘93 Unisaw and is from before riving knife’s were used. I have the normal kerf MJ splitters but haven’t installed them yet. Now that I’ve seen your video I have no excuses. My understanding of the kerf keepers’ purpose was to, how to say, go with the board. Tension keeps it in the kerf through the cut thereby keeping the kerf open. Because of this one can continue the cut vs what you said (stop the cut and figure out another way to do the cut). If I am right it seems an important distinction.
Well. The instructions said to stop the cut. In practicality since I posted this video I kept the cut going and it was fine.
You just solved my problem... Thanks... I have the same saw but it is really loud... Have you ran into this problem, if so please share
Awesome. Yeah. It’s just loud. Nothing you can do about that
Again, another thumbs up! You just don't stop, girl! Great instructor!
Awesome to hear! Thanks!
Hey Tamar, I also bought the exact same zero clearance plate. I discovered a very cool trick to make additional ones. When using a template bit on your router to duplicate the plate, you can back the side adjustment screws out ever so slightly beyond where they would need to be for a tight fit on your saw. Then when you duplicate the plate the bearing will trace around the screw and leave a little wooden nub on the side of the copy. You can then sand those nubs down for a perfect friction fit.
I used this to make a plate that will accept the riving knife, dado stacks, etc. then my main plate has the micro jig splitters.
That’s a great idea! Maybe I’ll do that for the other blades I have
Super video! I have a Unisaw I rebuilt and have been thinking of the MJ Splitter for a while now-buying it tomorrow. Thanks for your channel!!!!
Awesome. Glad you found it useful!
Safety first and your family will thank you. Have fun and enjoy your time in the shop.
I'll be purchasing this soon. I THINK I should be able to use the saws original riving knife. I'm thinking if I just make a tiny notch in the back of the riving knife to leave more material on the zero clearance insert for rigidity (very tiny amount but it's something).
I'm just spitballing at the moment. Before I get too far ahead of myself I have that combo Dewalt 10" with stand. I've also purchased a thin kerf Freud blade, so I'm also seeing if I can use the factory riving knife with that blade. I'm hoping with the zero clearance insert and modified riving knife... that I'll bring life to this saw because it's frustrating how much "out of tune" it is. Even the table is waving at me lol.
I can't wait to get the saw in a workbench or cart to itself because the stand it came with is a total tripping hazard!!!
Tamar, you are fantastic. I'm hooked on your woodwork videos. your an inspiration to us all, keep up the good work. Delta from the UK.
☺️☺️
I have no idea how I found your first video, but I've gotten quite a few ideas from you; Thanks! I just ordered a MJ Splitter Steel Pro, great tip!.
Awesome!
Very helpful tips. I am new to woodworking and want to do this. I am guessing DeWalt didn't like this idea. Every place I have looked online is out of stock. I guess I will have to attempt making my own. Thanks for the video. Very helpful
Oh man. Good luck!
Another very professionally produced video with excellent instruction on a topic where I really needed the help. Thanks.
Awesome. So glad you found it helpful!
Great video. Thanks. The splitter looks like a pain to get just right despite your excellent instructions. Couldn’t you extend the slot cut in the insert through the back of the insert to accommodate the saws riving knife?
Thanks. It wasn’t too bad. The instructions on the insert said i could not extend the cut for the riving knife on this saw. Probably bc I would have to cut all the way through and would mess with the structural integrity of the insert
Thanks much for demonstrating the install!! Been thinking about this kind of splitter (because the one I have now won't allow for partial thickness cuts at all) for a while now and you just convinced me that it's not as difficult to install as the directions look. Yikes.
This is EXTREMELY helpful!
Great straightforward and concise video..got it all set up on same saw with no issues! Thanks for taking time out.
The husky tool chest behind you , I have the exact same one . I have a General cabinet style saw and the recess in the table is only 1/4 inch deep so I have to use a good piece of hardwood to make them . Thanks and stay safe.
Awesome! You too
Thank god you did this video as I guarantee that I wouldn’t have read those instructions thoroughly.
Haha yeah. It was a lot to take in for such a simple product. Ha
Amazing Tamar! Thks to that I completely designed an adjustable, PLA made zero clearance insert especially for this table saw, with integrated splitter and kerf keeper, lock mechanism etc! I would be happy to ship one to you with other stuff I made also for the dewalt table saw! (For free of course)
I have the same setup except for a Bosch. I find the MicroJig kerfkeeper to be a PITA it’s just not precise enough- or rugged enough when starting the milling process....so what I do is turn off saw at first sign of binding, and jam a shim shingle in the kerf to keep it open and finish the cut. We buy kiln dried S2S and typically cut everything oversized and let it sit for a week or more before final sizing - just cull anything that gets too wacky. The Bosch is underpowered but easy to get to Jobsites so we make it work.
Yeah I’ve done the shim thing before. These saws are small but they get the job done!
Cool, I had looked at these in the past and my understanding was the kerf keeper was slightly wider and would get stuck in the board every cut. As that sounded like a pain, I resorted to turning my saw so it faced the garage door, and not the windows! Lol kickback is no joke. I may have to revisit this as an option.
Ha. Good planning. 😂 the kerf keeper is actually thinner then the splitters and will only lift when there is actual tension on boards. Showing you that it it not safe to cut instead of feeling it and then kickback occurring.
@@3x3CustomTamar that makes alot more sense, it's going on the wish list! Furthermore, I can't recall if you use a feather board? If not the level of cut control they offer is incredible... They even make them in yellow to match your saw 😜
I've got the same saw and had some tension in a board i was cutting last weekend. It made me a bit nervous to continue cutting and everything turned out ok but i still wish i'd had this setup! I'll definitely be doing this upgrade! Also, i never knew about the stock throat plate causing the cut to be off. Thanks for the informative video!
Glad you found it informative! Yeah. I might be a bit too meticulous but I always found some parts of my cuts to be slightly off even if my Blade was set to 90. It took me a while to figure out what he problem was.
Well done super video cheers .This is a very important as many veterans of violent kick back will know and boy/girl does it happen fast .Thumbs up !!
Thanks! Yeah. It’s pretty scary!
I have wondered why I ended up with square issues with the aluminum throat plate. This gets worse when cutting thicker stock. This was helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
I just installed this and drilling into my Leecraft zero insert was difficult with the provided drill bit. The Leecraft zero insert is made of a very dense plastic polymer and the bit get extremely hot and impossible to drill through in one plunge. I have mostly thin kerf saw blades but one very nice Forrest 1/8" blade that will need an additional MJ Splitter 1/8" $40 kit. In hindsight, I should have just bought a riving knife but I would need to make a cutout in my insert to accommodate that. Probably less time to do that than this whole MJ Splitter install. I also need to pull these out to use the full table saw top for measuring something like a 24" wide whatever. It seem this is a very niche product.
OMG Installing this riving knife thingamajig is soo complicated! This should be improved somehow.
Once completed this seems to work as advertised...
Thnx,
Willem
Sounds like a way more convenient method than I use. I use a tile setting wedge while cutting, in conjunction with my riving knife. I keep a stack of them in my 'fence caddy'. This sounds like a more reliable alternative. Thanks!
Great video! You covered and explained a few items that I've been struggling with recently!
I'm just getting serious about woodworking (finally!!!). I've noticed that my cuts on the tablesaw are wonky as you demonstrated. So, I'm more motivated to get started on the zero clearance throat plate for more reason than the cool factor now. You really explained and demonstrated that well! I have a piece of cedar ready to cut and shape tomorrow!
Super video! Thanks for the help!
Awesome. I hope that solves the issue!
Thanks Tamar! Unfortunately, I cannot get a zero tolerance plate for my old and cheap table saw. So, I made one out of oak and included a built in separator. It works but is not ideal. Maybe it is time for a table saw upgrade!
Ha! Maybe it’s a sign 😉
Would you please tell me which table saw you are using? Great video, thanks so much.
Dewalt dw745
Great video: Had a piece to get hung on stock insert. Saw threw it back at me as the piece broke off at a knot. Five stiches in left thumb and fractures bone later. Great job, Miss T.
Ouch.....
@@3x3CustomTamar Miss T, you've done well with your videos. I've picked up several good ideas. If you and yours ever get to Nashville, TN, be sure and look us up. Wife and I live in Donelson, about 7 minutes to the airport.
Great video, thank you! I found it easier to follow than the included instructions as well. Would you please share which vix bit you used for this? I think mine is the wrong size to get the proper alignment.
So glad you found it helpful! If I didn’t link it. I think it’s just from a set I picked up at HD
@@3x3CustomTamar Cool, I will check out HD and see what they have. Thanks again!
Great video and golly gee wizz you sure can get EVERYTHING you need back home for woodworking...Eternally GREEN with envy..cheers..rr Normandy, France
Thanks! Yeah. I guess I take that for granted!
Thanks for sharing Tamar, im just thinking, stock one is just cut through in orser to accomodate stock splitter. Why not to cut through this zero clearance one and use stock splitter? Upgrading insert makes sense for me i saw the nees after 10mins of using the saw but stock splitter seema to be fine
The insert material looks perfect for all kinds of jigs, sleds, etc....do you know what its made of and were to buy it?
Hmmm. Not sure. It’s very dense. I have no idea what it is
Another detailed, clear, and concise tutorial. Well done.
I did have one question. Are the MJ splitters tall enough to rip thicker stock, like 1 ½" thick 2x4 or 2x6 boards?
thanks,
richard
--
Hi! It might be that I missed a piece of basic info, but May I ask you where you bought the zero clearance insert? Just bought the splitter system from microjig, and made a few inserts myself - but I would like to compare them with one of even more stable material. Thank you, for both your work - and hopefully an answer:) My best, Lars, Oslo - Norway
Link down below!
I noticed in the thin-strip jig video that you were still using the stock plate, and it seemed like it wasn't causing you issues. Any chance you could do a quick tutorial on "survival strategies" for using a stock plate, or even just for people who may only have an imperfect tool collection?
It was causing issues. That why I decided to do this ha
Another quality instructional video......! btw where did you get thar orange push stick from...? Wouldn't mind one of them like..... :)
Thanks! I have it linked in my amazon store that’s linked below
Tus trabajos e ideas son siempre exelentes.
Felicitaciones por tu canal.
Thanks I think. Ha
@@3x3CustomTamar .
Como has aprendido a trabajar tan bien la madera?? Es una herencia de tu padre o lo aprendiste en algun instituto??
Great video. Why not just set one offset towards fence as a feather board and the last one pushing away from blade? Best of both worlds and you never have to worry about binding?
Thanks. I was just following the instructions I guess
@@3x3CustomTamar Thank you. Love your videos. Keep up the amazing work, your detail and ideas are fantastic:-).
So would you need a zero clearance insert if you plan on using a crosscut sled?
Not at all. The cross cut sled would act as a zero clearance
Forgive me if it’s listed somewhere, but where Did you purchase this zero clearance insert? I have the same table saw. I recently made my own, but as you mentioned in one of your comments, it’s just not sturdy enough! Thanks for all of the great content!
It’s linked in the description!
Great explanation, Tamar. One day these will be available in the UK, you are so lucky in the US, you get all the cool stuff😀
Thanks! I never realized how lucky I was to have access to all these cool things. Ha
I really like how your brain works!
☺️
Mega geile idee . Grade die kleinen spaltkeile , wichtig bei echholz da kann schnell mal das Brett ein Treffen und für nuten einfach rausziehn 👍👍👍👍👍
Sorry. Don’t understand. But I think I should say thank you. Ha
splitting wedge is important because of risk of injury. if you want to cut a nut, the wedge disturbs, that's why I find the conversion kit a good idea. from German to English with googel tranzlator made since my English is not good 😧
Great information, my question is I have a old table skilsaw and there is no zero clearance for it any ideas
There are lots of videos on how to make your own
Thank you I will check them
Hi I was surprised when you started because you have the same saw as I have just purchased, I went out to my shed to check the saw and found that my saw came with a zero clearance insert, the only explanation I can think of is that I live in the UK or they have changed the insert they send out? nice video though.
That’s awesome. Must be a UK thing!
Learning so much from you! Thank you for the great videos!
Awesome to hear!
Very helpful, thank you for posting.
That video was very informative and also very clearly explained ...fabulous job !!
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
My favorite Channel. We waiting more from you teacher. Thanks
Awesome to hear! Thanks!
Alas, Leecraft DW-2 zero clearance insert is nowhere to be found. Apparently they are far back in production. A vendor mentioned that perhaps they will be available in July. I made my own out of 1/2 inch MDF and another out of 1/2 inch plywood and they seem to be fitting well. Will now proceed to do install the microjig splitters using your video (you are the best!). I have the same table saw and want to buy some blades. I notice you are using Amana Mamba. How do you like it?
Oh man. Glad you figured something out. Yeah. I love the amana blades. The thin kerf combo blade is amazing
Just found your channel, as I was looking for a splitter since after having an incra fence system which didn't accommodate my rifing blade. What I an now interested in is your dial indicator. What type/brand is it?
Not sure when tool you’re referring to I posted this many years ago
Thanks Tamar. It's not a problem to extend the slot to accommodate a riving knife. Much safer than a splitter IMHO. I made a couple more for 30 & 45deg cuts. Surprised at how crappy the insert is, even on a DeWalt.
If it’s not a problem why would the instructions for the insert say i can’t use it for the dw745? I assumed it had something to do with cutting all the wa through the back. Yeah. The stock throat plate really sucks
@@3x3CustomTamar who knows. I guess each saw is different. I just know it easy to do on my cheap Rage 5s. I can't afford a DeWalt. 😀
@Larisa Ulkina Here's a glimpse of how to do it. You simply mark the widest point in the slot that the RK needs for clearance. Then place the new insert on top of original plate with blade extended up into new plate. Then butt fence up to new plate, turn on TB and slide new plate to the previously marked point.
th-cam.com/video/T4H2t4fNpOg/w-d-xo.html
If I had seen this video a week ago, I could have saved myself a trip to the ER. Thankfully I didn't cut anything **off** but I sure cut a couple of fingers UP.
Oh no.....
Thanks so much! I really enjoyed that video. Especially about the added stability
So glad you liked it
Hi, if your table saw has a factory-installed riving knife why do you want to replace it with an aftermarket splitter?
This zero clearance insert could not accommodate the factory riving knife. thats why I needed to use the splitter.
Very well explained...looks like it will work out great.
Thanks! It seems like it’s going to be great
Thanks for the explainer! Also, glad to see another female in the trades!
Awesome. Glad you liked it!
Hey great video. Do you know of any other zero insert plates other than leecraft? they are sold out (at least in canada) and I am not having any luck finding a replacement.
Cheers.
Sorry. Not sure
Great job. I bought from your affiliate links about everything from Your last video. Having fun gouging everything! Keep up the awesome videos.
Awesome! How fun is that gouge?! I want to get more!
Thanks, I have understand for use MJ splitter. Merci encore pour cet agréable sourire.
Awesome!
Great video Tamar!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for this very informative video. I love your table saw related videos because I have the same saw and so I know that if you can get something to work with it, then I can too. Thanks!!
Awesome! So happy you find them helpful!
I followed your instructions. Everything seemed to work okay. The test piece of 1/2 plywood fit perfectly. However, when I went to cut a piece of 3/4” plywood the splitter was too thick and would not allow the stock through to complete the cut. I purchased the 1/8” kerf set which is the thickness of my blade. I did not use the Kerf keeper as you did because I almost exclusively use soft wood. Any thoughts on why it didn’t work?
Hmmm not sure
@@3x3CustomTamar
Thanks so much for your response. It turns out that my blade was not a 1/8” kerf. I have ordered a new blade and that should solve the problem. Thanks again.
Amo todos tus proyectos y tus consejos.
Besos y abrazos
very nice. thank you. be happy. bravo.. see you....
So with the zero clearance insert, does anyone else get a lot of sawdust on top of the work piece? Like so much that you cant fully work? I have dust collection under the saw with a shop vac, and nothing goes in anymore. Wondering what everyone else is doing. And how is this with your table saw sled? Thanks and enjoy your video!
I’ve been on vacation since I posted this video so haven’t gotten to use it much. But my first couple times I used it that didn’t seem to be an issue. If anything it reduced the amount of dust that came up on top
Well that was super helpful. Thanks. Well done as usual.
Awesome. So glad it was helpful!
Great review. Shopping for a new saw now, liking your set up due to the possible portability
Glad you liked it. This saws been serving me well for the past 3 years with some minor tweaks like this
That was a great demo and explanation.
Awesome. Glad you liked it!
Nice video. Never seen anything like this jig in the Netherlands.
Thanks! I guess I take it for granted I have access to all this awesome stuff
Thanks your sharing idea. I'm from Indonesia, and in Indonesis is difficult find microjig spliter.. do you have idea to repleace with?
You can try to make something yourself
th-cam.com/video/A3KyytcRJIg/w-d-xo.html