I didn't want to make a zero clearance insert again for my new table saw, precisely because of the airflow issue! I wonder why I never had this so simple but brilliant idea to simply drill holes in it? You made my day, thanks a lot!
Very nice video! As an engineer, I very much appreciate your thought process and experiments and the use of "turbulence" word!. The sealing/not sealing thing is the same as with olive oil or drinks in a can. With air entrance, it will always flow much better, with a higher flow rate. Thanks for the content!
Awesome video. i've been frustrated trying to get better dust extraction and was trying to basically seal off everything. It never occurred to me that I needed some holes to allow more air flow. This has made such a big difference for me. thank you very much for sharing.
Thank you for your efforts to develop the insert, and your generosity in sharing it. I'll make one. On a different issue, I've noticed in your videos that you prefer black surfaces. Well, I have found that when I got older in age and my vision is not as sharp as it was, that I prefer bright colors. Also, when I've refurbished tools, I paint the inside and undersides a bright color. This makes it easier to see if adjustments are needed at a later time.
This is the most comprehensive and rational explanation of making a good zero-clearance insert. Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video!
I want to add that I made a new, zero clearance insert I added slots on the left side of the insert just like yours and dust collection is better! Thank you. 😁🛫
I made my insert similar to yours. I'll probably make another based on your suggestions. One problem I had was dropping a set up bar into the slot and it falling into a very inconvenient spot inside the saw. Another design of mine was to drill holes at each flange location. I inserted set screws in each hole and could adjust the height of each screw with an Allen wrench from the top of the plate. It's a lot easier and quicker than removing the plate to make adjustments.
Dennis, I will comment in the WW forum but the only problem with air entry through the insert plate is there is no air entry when the whole plate is covered. If a drop down shield was attached to the side overhead guard and pulled down on occasions when the cut produces side deflection of the debris then that problem goes away. I think your insert plate is an excellent idea if air can get through it. If I am cutting thin strips I place a piece on MDF on edge beside the blade and the debris deflection does not occur. That is the best demo of why a cabinet should not be sealed that I have ever seen, good work and now a lot more people might understand that sealing a cabinet is the worst thing that can be done. Keep up the good work, your videos are fantastic.
Hi Chris, I just uploaded the video on the forum. I understand your comment, and you are right that it only benefit if you do not cover the holes. But in most cases, the least thing that can happen is that you get a better ability to clean up your cabinet saw. (before and after the cut) And the insert is an additional hole. Like you also agreed you should not cover the holes from your cabinet. So, when the whole plate is covered, you end up with the same situation you normally would have.
Excellent design and function; very well thought out. I knew about the airflow requirements for HVLP systems with my router but never gave the tablesaw much though. It always annoyed me that there was a pile of dust in the bottom of my saw (I'm using a two stage system with a 2hp dust collector, shop made Thien baffle and overarm collection on the blade). I made a zero clearance insert (including a hardwood riving knife since my saw predates them) today using your design and I'm very impressed with the results. Way more efficient; this was a game changer. Thank you sir.
Denis, I posted a comment but it seems to have disappeared!!! Anyway, this was the first insert that made sense to me, from an airflow perspective. I made one quite similar to yours, and was going to send you a pic here, but i dont see any way to do it. I made it out of Corian, and it works so well, i really dont need to use my hood on most cuts. Just wanted to say thank you, and that I learn a lot from watching your videos. Keep em coming, as some day I want to start making some videos too, just getting my shop to the point where i can and not be embarassed!!!
Ho Kent, I know i saw your comment. It was good to read that your table saw benefits from the insert. Good luck, love to see your channel. Most important part is beginning. And when you want to make your workshop better first, welll let that be one of your first videos. All the best. Dennis
I really enjoy watching your videos! The review of what you like and don't like about the tools you use are also very helpful! keep up the good work and great videos! Mike
Hello Dennis, just found you on TH-cam I must say how you come across very professional in your video's and you do not do it on the cheap. Please keep doing what you do best I love your channel subscribed and liked keep up the good work looking forward to your next video
Amazing. What a great job, buddy! Keep on keeping on! I have just started this new hobby of woodworking and every bit of a great video like yours helps. Thank you!!!
Thanks for showing your ideas so clearly. I‘ve got an Axminster sawbench which was verry open underneath. So I closed the gaps under the table to increase the airflow. With my zero clearence insert of alu (4mm) I ve got a peeping sound. So I have to make some changes to avoid vibrations. Your videos are very inspiring. I love them! Greetings from Vienna!
Thank you for the great idea. I am dissatisfied with the dust control of my current zero-clearance insert and this seems like a wonderful solution. One suggestion though. At about the 11:00 minute mark you are getting the saw kerf cut into the new insert. You run into the problem of getting the insert exactly in position to cut the saw kerf. Instead of cutting it most of the way through, why not install your dado blade, which usually smaller than the normal working blade, put the new insert in place, move your fence over the insert - not over the blade though - to hold it in place. Then you can raise the blade to cut the kerf. Then you can reinstall the normal sized blade and continue.
Massive thanks to your great vids. I have the same saw and after watching your vids my dust extraction has improved so much. Great idea for the insert I have drilled holes in mine and it has improved it
What an excellent idea! Next weekend I'll modify my insert as well. It's great that you share this with the woodworking community instead of patent it 😃
Great idea Dennis. I must confess that I first thought the shallow angled kerf cuts across the top were to allow a little airflow under the workpiece, not just for aesthetics! You mentioned about not putting holes in the right hand side as this would increase friction on the moving workpiece. This got me thinking whether a version made from material with a low friction surface, like melamine faced MDF or phenolic faced ply might be either a way to also allow some air holes on the right hand side or just reduce the friction of your current design. Just a thought ...
Hi Stephen, My insert does not has that friction on its own. If it has, it is a bit from the suction. And you are right about the cuts across the top. I planed this so it could release pressure to the sides. But, the impact of the suction is very limited because there are enough holes where your dust extractor can get its air from if you cover the holes of the insert. Different then with my router table box. This one is airtight. If I put wood on these suction holes, it is difficult to put your wood over it, that is why I did a sliding door, if it can release the pressure the problem is solved. That is the "normal" situation. So to be short, this is almost a "non" issue.
There are some issues with your analysis- You are adding air inlets through the insert plate to the left of the blade, to increase overall airflow. But, unless you are cutting very slim strips, these are soon covered with the material, so cannot work. Internally, the dust shroud is rarely attached to the table, so there is already a gap that lets air into the extraction path. There may well be an optimum gap for this... If the cabinet is sealed, what is needed is a duct from outside to the side of the blade, sized to give optimum airflow. The material that the blade cuts is trapped in the gullet as it traverses the material- and then by the sides of the insert (if it is zero clearance). It is desirable to clear it then, before it rotates and ejects upwards.(The rake tends to retain the dust.) Ideally, there would be a sideways jet of air, pushing the dust out of the gullet on the underside of the table. A good design would have an internal shroud that directed air from the left of the blade, through the gullets to the right and then away to the duct. All the saws that I have seen have fairly crude dust shrouds. It does not seem high on the manufacturers priorities... Clearing the dust in a cabinet saw- a well designed dust shroud will taper downwards until it forms the outlet duct, so dust will fall by gravity to the duct, and there will be nowhere it can collect. The dust that appears into the workshop is mainly that which has not been cleared the gullets under the table and escapes above- one solution is to fit a brush rimmed extractor on the top, of the sort used by CNC machines. If there is no route out for the dust, you will not have any dust.
Hi Mike thanks for your analysis. I do not disagree with everything you said, and it fits perfectly in my analysis. But I do not talk about what could be. I talk about what I have. And I do not have a dust shroud, so my dust falls in the cabinet. My dust extraction system could not clean this with the holes in the cabinet. So, by creating this extra gab in the zero clearance, this improved. When you place a traditional zero clearance, you just make the airflow worse. I agree with you about the thin strips. But I do use it more than I thought. When you cover the holes, it acts just like every zero-clearance insert. So, my zero adds only something positive. When you have done your cut, the extra holes clean the inside of the cabinet. All the other improvements you subscribe to are for the manufacturers. And I agree this is a field that can be improved. However, they give more priority to this nowadays. Thanks for your comments
@@HookedonWood Your slots will certainly help with removing internal dust whilst not covered- and that is probably the majority of the time. As you demonstrate, it prevents build-up of dust within the cabinet. My concern is more with the dust that escapes entry into the cabinet (or, more accurately, is ejected upwards by the blade after traveling through the inside). Yes, this is a different problem- but a more serious one (the dust inside will eventually rise to the point of being extracted- it will form the shape that a shroud would have given; it is doing no harm in there...) as it is now airborne. I am more used to saws that are not a sealed cabinet- probably the majority of them. These 'leak like sieves' and would be unlikely to benefit from such slots. Sealed ones will, and for those this will be useful. However, an insert that had an extension to take the slots down to the periphery of the blade, directing the air to the side of the gullets, would achieve both aims. A 3D printing project?
Hi Denis. I love your insert. It's like a piece of art. What do you think about milling the cast iron top to continue the grooves over to the miter slot? It would be quite an undertaking, but would allow the air to continue flowing when cutting a piece that covers the insert.
Great Idea and really good video.Just inspired me to build one of my own.When I saw the cuts you said they are not necessary,I had the idea for my version to cut them in most used angles for mitercuts 15/30/45 and so on and then just put a strip with same wite of the sawblade to aline the fence more easy for cuts in angles.You inspired me.Thank you
Hey.I’m going to build 2 or 3 for my table saw now and my saw has more space on the left than on the right in the hole.I ordered phenolic resin or pertinax.Is that the material you used for yours?i found coated plywood or “Siebdruckplatte” here in Germany to weak and deformable.But all ready the “prototype” was way better.Thanks again.
Dennis just found your channel and Wow! Great videos and it’s weird to say but that’s a beautiful saw insert. I will be making mine soon! Keep up the informative and high quality videos. Hopefully you can get some more subscribers because people are missing out!
I took a different approach, I use a zero clearance insert, I have 150mm bell mouth sucking out of the cabinet table saw body, but opposite that I cut part of the cabinet open, fixed heavy duty mesh, this allows dust to be easily pulled across the cabinet. I have done this for 6 months and yesterday wanted to change a belt, upon opening the babinet there would have been enough dust to fill a coffee cup.
Very interesting video my friend. I will save this video and watch it again later because I'm going to try it on my table saw too. Thank you for sharing my friend!
Hi Chris, Thanks, watch almost all of your video's and I like them a lot. There is only one thing I think you can improve. Every time I see you use your table saw, this thing is so unstable. That this is the only thing I can mention is meant to be seen as a big compliment. I hope to reach your filming and editing skills someday. Thanks for your comments. Dennis
Well done Dennis. I really enjoyed your video on your channel. Tks for sharing with us. I have been a fan . Hope to have my work shop up and running soon. Can't wait to see what you think of your hammer upgrade ☺
Hello Dennis, did you ever check, if your "box" in which the saw is turning is actually so well sealed/air tight, that without your extra air-inlets on top, the airflow in the box is actually insufficient ? Otherwise it could be that the air-circulation under the table influences the airflow of the overhead extractor (and the other way around.), like 2 dust extractors with inlet hoses connected. I made 2 extra inlets in the zero clearance insert and have the impression, that things didn't improve for me if I use both extractors. If I only use the extractor that clears the box, things did improve probably a bit with your additional inlets. I did a lot of thinking about this and came up with the following: I checked my cabinet-box, and found, that there are a few openings in my table and the surface size of these openings seem about to correspond with the surface size of the extractor hose. If you have too many openings (as I now may have) extraction-speed (and strength) are going down quite a bit, so perhaps it is a good suggestion to first check this. what say you ? Best regards, Karel
Hi Karel, Your cabinet should not be, and probably will not be air tight. It has to cool the motor, but It needs air flow. But of course, you have to check if something is helpful. When I use my overhead dust extractor, I do not find any problem with dust. You understand your point and it was also my thinking. But most of the time, the wood is covering those holes in the inlet, so then the overhead dust extractor gets extra power. So, no extra dissedvantage in that case. Most benefit I get when I want to clean up edges, and cut away small amounts of wood at the sides. And when you can not use your overhead blade guard, than it gives a lot of benefits. SO, in my case I an not find any disadvantage. Dennis
I love the relief cuts you made on the top surface of the insert, I assume they are meant to stop the air preasure from your dust extraction system from sucking the work piece down and creating too much resistance .
Yes, that was the thinking. Of course the wood is sucked to the holes, but that is not a problem. It is not that strong because you should also have some holes in your cabinet. So when all the holes are covered it just extract more air from those places. However, I think it helps a bit. And it looks awesome! :-)
A guy on the delta table saw group makes and sells them for the delta. It has interchangeable cartridge that so you can set up all the different angle cuts and still have zero clearance.
I just started buying my tools to do some wood working. A complete stranger gave me a craftsman 12 inch bandsaw after he saw my post on Nextdoor Neighbor website. I bought a craftsman palm sander, a Kobalt 10 inch table saw and cheap chop saw. I’m 61 disabled man and my wife wanted me to get off of my butt so she recommended wood working. Do I need to buy a zero clearance insert or just use the one I have? The reason I want to change mine is because this way I can use my drill bits to set my blade height. I can’t use them with my current insert. Thanks in advance.
I use a zero clearance insert for specifically for cutting really thin pieces of wood so dust extraction isn’t a problem for me if I’m cutting regular pieces the factory insert is good enough
Looks great!! As I don’t have a table saw or anything I like watching these videos. Have you ever considered the direction of flow for the air inlet? Or adding another small inlet on the side to help the dust rotate from the bottom up into the hose? Just an idea!
Extremely interesting video. I'll be making this for sure. Can you tell me what type of set up you have for your drill press. That hold down looks so effective. I don't know how many times I needed a 3rd arm to best drill a hole. TY
Hi, that clamp comes with this Bosh drill press. It is indeed a nice system. I do not have the bosh anymore so I implemented a rail in my drill platform where I can slide a clamp in. Works perfect too.
Superb content Dennis, loving the whole china series, as well as your workshop tours, and builds. Can I ask the make of your table saw, and also the sliding extension, they look really good!? Thank you, from the UK.
Hi Michael, The brand of the table saw is from Harvey. But I think it is the same as the Axminster Trade table saws from the UK. The sliding extension is also from Harvey. Axminster Trade uses a different one. Thanks, Dennis
Dennis, your English is great, my dutch is non- existent. Your videos are great, minor pedantic point, clearance is spelt with an 'a'. Otherwise brilliant!
Hi Jay, I just want to say that I am very happy with your comment. It feels great to inspire people. That is very motivated for me to read. Good luck ad I hope you will be happy with it. Thanks Dennis
i'd be worried about the diagonal slots potentially catching on the edge of the wood and pushing it sideways or getting chips caught in them that could lift and tilt the wood.
Hello Dennis love your videos thanks I have a few questions: 1. During the making of the insert you have 1 finger hole on the bottom right of the insert. Then around 13min you have a second elongated finger hole near the bottom middle but you don’t mention this one? Why? 2. The screw hole and screws, are the holes countersunk to make room for the screw head? 3. What kind of screws do you use and do you grind them flat? 4. Is a friction fit strong enough to keep the insert seated? All my factory inserts have some sort of locking mechanism.
Hi, here are my answers: 1. I made two elongated holes for air inlet. The hole at the other side of the front is just to lift it. 2. Yes, they are a bit countersink to hide the screw. I have a screw with a flat head 3. flat head and I did not grind it. 4. I still have no problem with it. When the dust extraction is on, it is sucked to the table saw. But my friction is also stable enough. If you find a way to secure it, it will always be better.
Your trying to pull dust out from the back, my Jet Proshop II from 2017 has an open bottom I plan on adding a sloped bottom with a 4" dust port The 2" dust port the saw came with was useless most the dust went to the floor. Unless you cover it every table saw has a balde tilt hole that is open now microjig sells a magnetic cover you can fit on your saw but you must move it when you make an angle changes. But I find what your showing an interesting point of view with tests done to proof the design.
Thanks a lot. You can bet my next batch of throat plates will incorporate your ideas. What is the story on your choice of copper tape to seal your collector tube?
Hi Mark, I wanted to ground my system because with my former table saw I always got some static shocks when I touched it. I had this copper tape laying around so that was easier for me to use. But I found out that it is a good way of grounding. Other advantage is that the duct system does not attract dust. And of course, there is the safety thing of possible explosions. But I am not so worry about the last thing. SO, it is not to seal my duct system, but to ground it.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
This is probably the best dust extraction explanation i have seen, thanks for sharing.
I never thought looking at a table saw insert the word beautiful would be in my thoughts. 😍
The world needs more men such as you! Brilliant design and insight into an overlooked system!
Thanks Cal,
Appreciated!
Incredible analysis, design, testing, and execution. Better than professional.
I didn't want to make a zero clearance insert again for my new table saw, precisely because of the airflow issue! I wonder why I never had this so simple but brilliant idea to simply drill holes in it? You made my day, thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot for your kindness. Always a pleasure to hear from you and learn great tricks or gigs.👌👍🖖
Thanks James, Always a pleasure to hear your comment.
Brilliant my friend. Incredible explanation of dust control in general with the bonus of an awesome zero clearance plate. Thank you.
Very insightful regarding have zero clearance but also letting air in. You exhibit a unique combination of precision thinking and aesthetic vision.
Thanks for your comment and compliment. Keeps me motivated!
The Eddy Van Halen insert.... love it!!! Great idea, yes, patent and sell them!!!!
Very nice video! As an engineer, I very much appreciate your thought process and experiments and the use of "turbulence" word!. The sealing/not sealing thing is the same as with olive oil or drinks in a can. With air entrance, it will always flow much better, with a higher flow rate. Thanks for the content!
Hi Kauer,
Thanks for your comment. That you wrote this from an engineer background I like it even more.
Awesome video. i've been frustrated trying to get better dust extraction and was trying to basically seal off everything. It never occurred to me that I needed some holes to allow more air flow. This has made such a big difference for me. thank you very much for sharing.
Nice design and I love the black MDF, I've not seen that before it looks really nice.
Thank you for your efforts to develop the insert, and your generosity in sharing it. I'll make one.
On a different issue, I've noticed in your videos that you prefer black surfaces. Well, I have found that when I got older in age and my vision is not as sharp as it was, that I prefer bright colors. Also, when I've refurbished tools, I paint the inside and undersides a bright color. This makes it easier to see if adjustments are needed at a later time.
This is the most comprehensive and rational explanation of making a good zero-clearance insert. Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video!
Nice update and a fantastic way to show how to make the insert. I love the editing on this. Thank you
Thanks London,
for your comment and positive feedback.
Keeps me motivated!
I want to add that I made a new, zero clearance insert I added slots on the left side of the insert just like yours and dust collection is better!
Thank you. 😁🛫
Yes, Yes! Good information!
Thanks Dennis
I made my insert similar to yours. I'll probably make another based on your suggestions. One problem I had was dropping a set up bar into the slot and it falling into a very inconvenient spot inside the saw. Another design of mine was to drill holes at each flange location. I inserted set screws in each hole and could adjust the height of each screw with an Allen wrench from the top of the plate. It's a lot easier and quicker than removing the plate to make adjustments.
Dennis, I will comment in the WW forum but the only problem with air entry through the insert plate is there is no air entry when the whole plate is covered. If a drop down shield was attached to the side overhead guard and pulled down on occasions when the cut produces side deflection of the debris then that problem goes away. I think your insert plate is an excellent idea if air can get through it. If I am cutting thin strips I place a piece on MDF on edge beside the blade and the debris deflection does not occur. That is the best demo of why a cabinet should not be sealed that I have ever seen, good work and now a lot more people might understand that sealing a cabinet is the worst thing that can be done. Keep up the good work, your videos are fantastic.
Hi Chris, I just uploaded the video on the forum. I understand your comment, and you are right that it only benefit if you do not cover the holes. But in most cases, the least thing that can happen is that you get a better ability to clean up your cabinet saw. (before and after the cut) And the insert is an additional hole. Like you also agreed you should not cover the holes from your cabinet. So, when the whole plate is covered, you end up with the same situation you normally would have.
Love your approach to experimentation and learning. Also: Really refreshing to hear a European accent discussing woodworking in the metric system :D
I like your approach to the design process. It is well thought out and methodical.
Wow, very clever. I’m glad I found your channel and I appreciate all the work that you’re doing for the Woodworking community.
Hi Bob, Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it.
It takes some time to create these video's but it is worth it.
Regards,
Dennis
Really good one again. Thank you. I’m jealous of the way you think.
Hi Emmet,
Thanks for your comment. Its motivates me to keep going.
Excellent design and function; very well thought out. I knew about the airflow requirements for HVLP systems with my router but never gave the tablesaw much though. It always annoyed me that there was a pile of dust in the bottom of my saw (I'm using a two stage system with a 2hp dust collector, shop made Thien baffle and overarm collection on the blade). I made a zero clearance insert (including a hardwood riving knife since my saw predates them) today using your design and I'm very impressed with the results. Way more efficient; this was a game changer. Thank you sir.
Thanks Anthony, I am very happy to read you like it, and it is effective.
Brilliant! This is real innovation. I myself did not have a thought about holes in the zero clearance throat plate 😅
Absolutely brilliant. I haven't got a table saw yet but I'm inspired to make a similar zero clearance insert for my mitre saw :).
Denis, I posted a comment but it seems to have disappeared!!! Anyway, this was the first insert that made sense to me, from an airflow perspective. I made one quite similar to yours, and was going to send you a pic here, but i dont see any way to do it. I made it out of Corian, and it works so well, i really dont need to use my hood on most cuts. Just wanted to say thank you, and that I learn a lot from watching your videos. Keep em coming, as some day I want to start making some videos too, just getting my shop to the point where i can and not be embarassed!!!
Ho Kent, I know i saw your comment. It was good to read that your table saw benefits from the insert. Good luck, love to see your channel. Most important part is beginning. And when you want to make your workshop better first, welll let that be one of your first videos. All the best. Dennis
I really enjoy watching your videos! The review of what you like and don't like about the tools you use are also very helpful! keep up the good work and great videos! Mike
Everything that you do are to the high level of quality.
Feels like I am listening to Arnold. Great video sir.
This guy is super awesome, I buy a lot of quality stuff. Thanks for saving me money.
EXCELLENT!!! Thank you for demystifying dust extraction.
Fantastic video, learned a lot, thank you
Great work, Dennis! And great research for the best design! Best regards from Switzerland, Rob
Thanks Rob, appreciate your comment!
Yesterday I made two of your design ZC Inserts and wow what a difference so thank you Dennis for your great design
Yesss, good to read😀😀😀👍👍
Hello Dennis, just found you on TH-cam I must say how you come across very professional in your video's and you do not do it on the cheap. Please keep doing what you do best I love your channel subscribed and liked keep up the good work looking forward to your next video
Thanks Mike, good to have you on board!
Habe viel gelernt über die Möglichkeiten, die Staubabzug zu verringern. Danke - Rudi
Amazing. What a great job, buddy! Keep on keeping on! I have just started this new hobby of woodworking and every bit of a great video like yours helps. Thank you!!!
Thanks for showing your ideas so clearly.
I‘ve got an Axminster sawbench which was verry open underneath. So I closed the gaps under the table to increase the airflow. With my zero clearence insert of alu (4mm) I ve got a peeping sound. So I have to make some changes to avoid vibrations.
Your videos are very inspiring. I love them! Greetings from Vienna!
Thanks Jorg, for your comment and good luck with your table saw.
Very nice. I really appreciate that you brought an engineering perspective to your build. Thanks!
Thanks Stu,
I like your comment, Keeps me motivated!
Thank you for the great idea. I am dissatisfied with the dust control of my current zero-clearance insert and this seems like a wonderful solution. One suggestion though. At about the 11:00 minute mark you are getting the saw kerf cut into the new insert. You run into the problem of getting the insert exactly in position to cut the saw kerf. Instead of cutting it most of the way through, why not install your dado blade, which usually smaller than the normal working blade, put the new insert in place, move your fence over the insert - not over the blade though - to hold it in place. Then you can raise the blade to cut the kerf. Then you can reinstall the normal sized blade and continue.
Hi Fred, That is another way. But, I do not have a dado blade. But I find this way much safer and I manage to get the cut right where it needs to be.
Appreciate all the work that you’re doing. Keep it up
Massive thanks to your great vids. I have the same saw and after watching your vids my dust extraction has improved so much. Great idea for the insert I have drilled holes in mine and it has improved it
Yesss!!! Great to read. Thanks for letting me know. Keeps me motivated.
Dennis
Your inserts are higher quality than my projects!
New subscriber, looking forward to going through your channel. 🙂
😀😀
I am impressed. Now I got to go back and remake all of my inserts....lol!
What an excellent idea! Next weekend I'll modify my insert as well. It's great that you share this with the woodworking community instead of patent it 😃
Thanks :-)
Excellent content and excellent video production! A rare combination indeed! Well done!
Thanks Rick, Appreciate your comment!
Dennis
When you really love what you are doing then and only then you can take it to the next level. Thank you for sharing.
Great idea Dennis. I must confess that I first thought the shallow angled kerf cuts across the top were to allow a little airflow under the workpiece, not just for aesthetics! You mentioned about not putting holes in the right hand side as this would increase friction on the moving workpiece. This got me thinking whether a version made from material with a low friction surface, like melamine faced MDF or phenolic faced ply might be either a way to also allow some air holes on the right hand side or just reduce the friction of your current design. Just a thought ...
Hi Stephen,
My insert does not has that friction on its own. If it has, it is a bit from the suction. And you are right about the cuts across the top. I planed this so it could release pressure to the sides. But, the impact of the suction is very limited because there are enough holes where your dust extractor can get its air from if you cover the holes of the insert. Different then with my router table box. This one is airtight. If I put wood on these suction holes, it is difficult to put your wood over it, that is why I did a sliding door, if it can release the pressure the problem is solved. That is the "normal" situation. So to be short, this is almost a "non" issue.
I really like you very high attention to detail. Excellent videos keep up the great work.
I used a kitchen cutting board and it works great
Everything that works great, is great!
Great Insert! I just finished mine. I´m thinking about upgrading them with your extra slots.
Nice tip on plugging or opening the gaps on your particular table saw to create the optimum air flow!!! Genius. :-)
Thanks Larry
There are some issues with your analysis-
You are adding air inlets through the insert plate to the left of the blade, to increase overall airflow. But, unless you are cutting very slim strips, these are soon covered with the material, so cannot work. Internally, the dust shroud is rarely attached to the table, so there is already a gap that lets air into the extraction path. There may well be an optimum gap for this... If the cabinet is sealed, what is needed is a duct from outside to the side of the blade, sized to give optimum airflow.
The material that the blade cuts is trapped in the gullet as it traverses the material- and then by the sides of the insert (if it is zero clearance). It is desirable to clear it then, before it rotates and ejects upwards.(The rake tends to retain the dust.) Ideally, there would be a sideways jet of air, pushing the dust out of the gullet on the underside of the table. A good design would have an internal shroud that directed air from the left of the blade, through the gullets to the right and then away to the duct. All the saws that I have seen have fairly crude dust shrouds. It does not seem high on the manufacturers priorities...
Clearing the dust in a cabinet saw- a well designed dust shroud will taper downwards until it forms the outlet duct, so dust will fall by gravity to the duct, and there will be nowhere it can collect.
The dust that appears into the workshop is mainly that which has not been cleared the gullets under the table and escapes above- one solution is to fit a brush rimmed extractor on the top, of the sort used by CNC machines. If there is no route out for the dust, you will not have any dust.
Hi Mike thanks for your analysis.
I do not disagree with everything you said, and it fits perfectly in my analysis. But I do not talk about what could be. I talk about what I have. And I do not have a dust shroud, so my dust falls in the cabinet.
My dust extraction system could not clean this with the holes in the cabinet. So, by creating this extra gab in the zero clearance, this improved.
When you place a traditional zero clearance, you just make the airflow worse.
I agree with you about the thin strips. But I do use it more than I thought. When you cover the holes, it acts just like every zero-clearance insert. So, my zero adds only something positive. When you have done your cut, the extra holes clean the inside of the cabinet.
All the other improvements you subscribe to are for the manufacturers. And I agree this is a field that can be improved. However, they give more priority to this nowadays. Thanks for your comments
@@HookedonWood Your slots will certainly help with removing internal dust whilst not covered- and that is probably the majority of the time. As you demonstrate, it prevents build-up of dust within the cabinet. My concern is more with the dust that escapes entry into the cabinet (or, more accurately, is ejected upwards by the blade after traveling through the inside). Yes, this is a different problem- but a more serious one (the dust inside will eventually rise to the point of being extracted- it will form the shape that a shroud would have given; it is doing no harm in there...) as it is now airborne.
I am more used to saws that are not a sealed cabinet- probably the majority of them. These 'leak like sieves' and would be unlikely to benefit from such slots. Sealed ones will, and for those this will be useful. However, an insert that had an extension to take the slots down to the periphery of the blade, directing the air to the side of the gullets, would achieve both aims. A 3D printing project?
Great Demo Dennis, thank you for sharing, can’t wait to get back into my shop.
Thanks for the "how to", I believe I was one of the individuals asking for plans.👍
Yes, you are right!
Hi Denis. I love your insert. It's like a piece of art. What do you think about milling the cast iron top to continue the grooves over to the miter slot? It would be quite an undertaking, but would allow the air to continue flowing when cutting a piece that covers the insert.
👌 Mooi Dennis, en ook goed dat je tips tussendoor geeft over het veilig werken zoals bij de freestafel met de draairichting van de frees.
Hoi Andre,
Bedankt voor je reactie, leuk om te lezen.
Groeten, Dennis
Great Idea and really good video.Just inspired me to build one of my own.When I saw the cuts you said they are not necessary,I had the idea for my version to cut them in most used angles for mitercuts 15/30/45 and so on and then just put a strip with same wite of the sawblade to aline the fence more easy for cuts in angles.You inspired me.Thank you
Hi John, Cleaver idea to cut the angles of the intercuts.
Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it.
Hey.I’m going to build 2 or 3 for my table saw now and my saw has more space on the left than on the right in the hole.I ordered phenolic resin or pertinax.Is that the material you used for yours?i found coated plywood or “Siebdruckplatte” here in Germany to weak and deformable.But all ready the “prototype” was way better.Thanks again.
Dennis just found your channel and Wow! Great videos and it’s weird to say but that’s a beautiful saw insert. I will be making mine soon! Keep up the informative and high quality videos. Hopefully you can get some more subscribers because people are missing out!
Super smart. Well done. Thanks for sharing. Do you have a vid for dust extraction for your mitre saw?
I took a different approach, I use a zero clearance insert, I have 150mm bell mouth sucking out of the cabinet table saw body, but opposite that I cut part of the cabinet open, fixed heavy duty mesh, this allows dust to be easily pulled across the cabinet. I have done this for 6 months and yesterday wanted to change a belt, upon opening the babinet there would have been enough dust to fill a coffee cup.
In the End, it is the results that count. Nicely done!
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
Very interesting video my friend. I will save this video and watch it again later because I'm going to try it on my table saw too. Thank you for sharing my friend!
Hi Chris, Thanks, watch almost all of your video's and I like them a lot. There is only one thing I think you can improve. Every time I see you use your table saw, this thing is so unstable. That this is the only thing I can mention is meant to be seen as a big compliment. I hope to reach your filming and editing skills someday.
Thanks for your comments.
Dennis
Well done Dennis. I really enjoyed your video on your channel. Tks for sharing with us. I have been a fan . Hope to have my work shop up and running soon. Can't wait to see what you think of your hammer upgrade ☺
Hello Dennis, did you ever check, if your "box" in which the saw is turning is actually so well sealed/air tight, that without your extra air-inlets on top, the airflow in the box is actually insufficient ?
Otherwise it could be that the air-circulation under the table influences the airflow of the overhead extractor (and the other way around.), like 2 dust extractors with inlet hoses connected.
I made 2 extra inlets in the zero clearance insert and have the impression, that things didn't improve for me if I use both extractors.
If I only use the extractor that clears the box, things did improve probably a bit with your additional inlets.
I did a lot of thinking about this and came up with the following:
I checked my cabinet-box, and found, that there are a few openings in my table and the surface size of these openings seem about to correspond with the surface size of the extractor hose.
If you have too many openings (as I now may have) extraction-speed (and strength) are going down quite a bit, so perhaps it is a good suggestion to first check this.
what say you ?
Best regards, Karel
Hi Karel,
Your cabinet should not be, and probably will not be air tight. It has to cool the motor, but It needs air flow. But of course, you have to check if something is helpful. When I use my overhead dust extractor, I do not find any problem with dust. You understand your point and it was also my thinking. But most of the time, the wood is covering those holes in the inlet, so then the overhead dust extractor gets extra power.
So, no extra dissedvantage in that case. Most benefit I get when I want to clean up edges, and cut away small amounts of wood at the sides. And when you can not use your overhead blade guard, than it gives a lot of benefits. SO, in my case I an not find any disadvantage.
Dennis
Excellent video and process. Thank your for sharing.
I love the relief cuts you made on the top surface of the insert, I assume they are meant to
stop the air preasure from your dust extraction system from sucking the work piece down
and creating too much resistance .
Yes, that was the thinking.
Of course the wood is sucked to the holes, but that is not a problem. It is not that strong because you should also have some holes in your cabinet. So when all the holes are covered it just extract more air from those places. However, I think it helps a bit. And it looks awesome! :-)
Very clear and well presented great idea. PS I love your drill press hold down.
A guy on the delta table saw group makes and sells them for the delta. It has interchangeable cartridge that so you can set up all the different angle cuts and still have zero clearance.
Can I thumbs up 2x! Great video and design of the insert
Thanks Chris,
Your welcome!
Thanks for your update. As soon as i have a table saw i will make this insert!
Hi Tex,
Great to read! I hope it will improve your system as well.
Clever thinking, well applicated, good result !
I just started buying my tools to do some wood working. A complete stranger gave me a craftsman 12 inch bandsaw after he saw my post on Nextdoor Neighbor website. I bought a craftsman palm sander, a Kobalt 10 inch table saw and cheap chop saw.
I’m 61 disabled man and my wife wanted me to get off of my butt so she recommended wood working. Do I need to buy a zero clearance insert or just use the one I have? The reason I want to change mine is because this way I can use my drill bits to set my blade height. I can’t use them with my current insert. Thanks in advance.
Genius, I made a zero clearance insert but of course it keeps the sawdust on top. Will be making some new ones with your ports added.
I use a zero clearance insert for specifically for cutting really thin pieces of wood so dust extraction isn’t a problem for me if I’m cutting regular pieces the factory insert is good enough
When something works good, it works good. But when not, this can be a perfect solution. For me, it was very effective.
Nice video Dennis. Hope all is well.
Hi Jay. Yep, everything OK. Nice to hear from you
Thank you. My cnc did it perfect
Great idea and really enjoy the content you've shared thus far. Thanks for sharing your great work!
Looks great!! As I don’t have a table saw or anything I like watching these videos. Have you ever considered the direction of flow for the air inlet? Or adding another small inlet on the side to help the dust rotate from the bottom up into the hose? Just an idea!
Yes, but i do not want to damage my table saw. So that makes some try and error attempts limited
Extremely interesting video. I'll be making this for sure. Can you tell me what type of set up you have for your drill press. That hold down looks so effective. I don't know how many times I needed a 3rd arm to best drill a hole. TY
Hi, that clamp comes with this Bosh drill press. It is indeed a nice system. I do not have the bosh anymore so I implemented a rail in my drill platform where I can slide a clamp in. Works perfect too.
Absolutely brilliant!
Superb content Dennis, loving the whole china series, as well as your workshop tours, and builds.
Can I ask the make of your table saw, and also the sliding extension, they look really good!?
Thank you, from the UK.
Hi Michael,
The brand of the table saw is from Harvey. But I think it is the same as the Axminster Trade table saws from the UK. The sliding extension is also from Harvey. Axminster Trade uses a different one.
Thanks, Dennis
@@HookedonWood Thank you Dennis. The sliding extension looks great, I'll take a look into Harvey. Very apperciated.
wow how festinating. But here in the USA those thoughts and designs have been put to practice years ago. still thanks for the video
Goeie video's Dennis heel interessant duidelijke uitleg. je werkplaats en de manier van werken en logisch denken vind ik ook heel gaaf, bedankt!
Dank je Stephan,
Erg cool om te lezen!
Mooi gedaan Dennis. 👌🏻 Die ga ik zeker nog maken voor mijn nieuwe Festool zaagtafel.
Mooi spul trouwens dat zwarte MDF. Thnx for sharing 😉
Excellent work, information and video!
Thanks very much for sharing your ideas 👍👏👏
Hi mate! I'm just wonderin, where did you get black mdf? I thought polycarbonate.
Dennis, your English is great, my dutch is non- existent. Your videos are great, minor pedantic point, clearance is spelt with an 'a'. Otherwise brilliant!
Thanks, i know but can not change it. But thanks for your comments
Thanks for sharing. Very illustrative 😀
Thanks Ulrik, Nice to hear from you again!
Excellent! You have inspired me to make one of my own. Thanks again.
Hi Jay,
I just want to say that I am very happy with your comment. It feels great to inspire people. That is very motivated for me to read. Good luck ad I hope you will be happy with it.
Thanks
Dennis
i'd be worried about the diagonal slots potentially catching on the edge of the wood and pushing it sideways or getting chips caught in them that could lift and tilt the wood.
Theoretically, this can happen. Without the slots, it works perfectly.
Are the slots really only 15mm wide? They look wider in the video.
Excellent video and cannot wait for your next video. Thank you for sharing your wonderful skills. From your loyal fan.
Thanks Ron,
Appreciate it!
Hello Dennis love your videos thanks I have a few questions:
1. During the making of the insert you have 1 finger hole on the bottom right of the insert. Then around 13min you have a second elongated finger hole near the bottom middle but you don’t mention this one? Why?
2. The screw hole and screws, are the holes countersunk to make room for the screw head?
3. What kind of screws do you use and do you grind them flat?
4. Is a friction fit strong enough to keep the insert seated? All my factory inserts have some sort of locking mechanism.
Hi,
here are my answers:
1. I made two elongated holes for air inlet. The hole at the other side of the front is just to lift it.
2. Yes, they are a bit countersink to hide the screw. I have a screw with a flat head
3. flat head and I did not grind it.
4. I still have no problem with it. When the dust extraction is on, it is sucked to the table saw. But my friction is also stable enough. If you find a way to secure it, it will always be better.
@@HookedonWood perfect thank you!
Your trying to pull dust out from the back, my Jet Proshop II from 2017 has an open bottom I plan on adding a sloped bottom with a 4" dust port
The 2" dust port the saw came with was useless most the dust went to the floor.
Unless you cover it every table saw has a balde tilt hole that is open now microjig sells a magnetic cover you can fit on your saw but you must move it when you make an angle changes.
But I find what your showing an interesting point of view with tests done to proof the design.
Beautiful! Great detail. Thank you
Super job! Heel erg bedankt voor je hulp. Cheers!
The design is very Van Halen!!
I'd really like to know what is that nail punch you use?
Thanks a lot. You can bet my next batch of throat plates will incorporate your ideas. What is the story on your choice of copper tape to seal your collector tube?
Hi Mark, I wanted to ground my system because with my former table saw I always got some static shocks when I touched it. I had this copper tape laying around so that was easier for me to use. But I found out that it is a good way of grounding. Other advantage is that the duct system does not attract dust. And of course, there is the safety thing of possible explosions. But I am not so worry about the last thing. SO, it is not to seal my duct system, but to ground it.