Ah the early days! Mr. O sure has changed for the better. The early ones are good videos, the later ones have great commentary, humor and of course, EXCELLENT repair work like the older ones.
I appreciate you are a very good teacher that's one of the number one things to be in a good teacher is being visibly out of the way so you can see what you're working on and you do that thank you
I gotta replace the ball joints on my car, I have these man-sized pot holes to thank for. I guess it's pot-luck when it comes to aftermarket parts. You made it look easy, thanks for the vid.
Excellent job in your explanations and putting camera right where we need to see what you're doing. Was thinking of doing this job on my '03 Santa Fe and your explanations show this won't be too bad of a job. Thanks!
I've always seen those LCA tools in the catalogs from Advance auto....Never realized they were that big..I couldn't see how it would be useful before but now it looks like I'll be picking one up.
Great & simple video, thanks! Not the info I was looking for, but it did give me some insight on other facets of that type of repair. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video!
Good video, but confused. Why on earth would you replace the entire control arm just because the aftermarket ball joint you bought did not fit? Am I missing something? Did you not ensure the part you bought was an exact fitment for this vehicle and cross-compare the original OEM part number? Or is there something else. Like perhaps the control arm hole that the ball joint goes into was damaged or worn out from being loose and rattling around and it damaged it? If so, you did not mention that. And when you fit that ball joint in, there was no close up, but it appeared to fit like a glove. Anyway, if I was confused, I'm sure others were.
Eric, have you seen the video that the other Eric made replacing a ball joint? I believe it was in a Nissan Sentra. He popped out the old one which was loose as can be, then tried to put the new Moog one in and seen it just slid right in too easily. Lol so he proceeded to blame moog for making the ball joint too small and comes up with the brilliant idea of putting a couple tiny, very amateur, tack welds on the top to keep it In place... claiming its "better than a press in one that would have fit"! It's a must see, haha. Thank you for showing your viewers there are good mechanics out their that genuinely care about their safety and do the job right the first time;)
+Nick Schneider Yeah I saw it, in my book that is a very halfassed repair but that is how he wants to conduct his business then that is his prerogative. In that case the control arm was an aftermarket one clearly and should have been replaced. It is the only option IMO.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe I was wondering can a bad ball joint ruin the transmission in any way from all the moving around. I'm talking about the kind of ball joint that causes your tire to wander harshly. Thank you for your reply I really like your videos man you have helped me so much. Always straight forward and to the point. And with a little humor too LOL thanks brother
Eric i sooooo wish youd do a video on a rack n pinion on 01-06 3.5 santa fe. Theres only one on here and he does it without dropping the subframe. Im not sure what else besides the lines, ball joint, sway bar link , tie rod, discomn😢from strut... Both sides... But is there a motir mout you gotta disconnect? Just curious. By the way stuntman says WHATS UP... CAMERAMAN TOO
just found your channel the other day and have really enjoyed your vids and your expertise. boy it's a shame that the name brand aftermarket parts are not as precise as the used to be. I have run into this on several occasions. keep up the good work. you have a top notch shop there.
Oh no, I just spent 600 bucks on struts and sway bar link and bushings. Am I gonna have to do this control arm now too? It's got 207K miles, 2007 entourage with a noisy lifter. Maybe I should have just got another car
I've got an old track bar from the Dodge Ram, and it looks to me like I could use it to make that tool you use to pull the control arm down. That would be a fun little project out of junk yard parts, ha ha.
Hello I have a Hyundai santa fe from 2001, the videos are very helpful, but I can't understand everything (I'm from Poland). I have a big request, could you please add subtitles to the videos (then I would understand a lot more) regards
I have a 2009 hyundai tucson from new. Have been told front lower bushings are starting to crack and easier to replace both arm controls to do it. Have been quoted A$1,000! These arms are really cheap on ebay etc so wondering am I getting ripped off?
Great Stuff...I am learning so much Eric O. I am wondering " Is that big red handle you used to separate the lower control arm for sale anywhere??? Never mind I was just reading some comment and found the answer I was looking for.
Nice, helpful video. But shouldn’t the arm be in road position before tightening the front bushing through bolt? Otherwise the bushing is operating in a twisted condition which hastens its demise.
I had a 1999 Dodge Dakota Sport a while back that needed new lower ball joints and controls arms. I bought new Moog parts but after comparing them to the old Dodge parts the Moogs weren't as beefy. I was able to find new OEM parts for the Dodge on eBay and install them. Why would the Moogs not be identical to the old OEM parts?
I have the exact model that you're working on in this video, right down to the color..lol.186,000 mi. it's been great but now everything is starting to go. My question is I just had the right front CV joint & half axle replaced which is fine but when I dropped it off at the shop I also mentioned a low speed "shimmy" from the front end that radiated through the steering wheel very much. I figured it was due to the CV joint...but it wasn't! The mechanic said everything was fine during the road test but when I drove off it shook the steering wheel just as much as it did before..!!! Do you think I could have a belt that slipped in the tire ( inspected tires nothing apparent) or possibly another front end piece that is making it shake like crazy until you get to about 60mph! Any advice would be greatly appreciated,,, Thanks
Eric, greetings. The two piece front control arm bushing has created a lot of fuzz overseas. Some people say it's easy for that bushing to come apart while driving. What's your opinion on that? Thanks.
Those long sleeved bolts scare me. Just did a 95 Continental strut and ball joint (same as Taurus) for a relative, with original struts in the front knuckle. Spent 2 hours pounding out the damn 14mm pinch bolt - ended up having to get new hardware after using a ball joint press to get it out. Used every penetrating oil and some heat (it is aluminum, don't want to get it too hot). Had an impact working on it too. That LCA tool would have come in handy.
You might look into the Milwaukee 18 volt Angled 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch impact wrenches. My son uses them at the dealer ship and absolutely love the. Huge time savers and can get into tight areas. And really cost effective. P
Not at all. We use them pretty much everyday. Lightweight and has plenty of torque. The batteries last all day. We bought ours from Home Depot ( that's where I found the best price ). Free shipping and they have a 3 year warranty. I have been very pleased.
I have a 2014 hyundai sonata. I replaced the bearings. I had to take out and apart the lower ball joint. When I put the lower ball joint back in it seems to be in all the way but the ball joint sticks out a little bit and the top and seems to be crooked, but the bolt that secures it goes in. My question is I was wondering if the lower ball joint when put it back together is in all the way?
hey, do you normally install moog (aftermarket) , or do you first recommend OEM when you tell your customer you have a bad steering suspension component. Thanks.
Personally I recommend OEM 10/10 times. Unless you're talking like a humongous difference in price. I'm just that kind of guy, I've seen too many aftermarket parts just not work the way they're intended too, or they simply don't fit properly and cause issues down the line. OEM will always be worth it. Check out his video on the Dodge Dakota front axle noise. That is the PRECISE reason I never recommend aftermarket, lol.
I agree 100%. When it comes to parts like steering, suspension and braking, I ONLY buy OEM for my daily driver. The parts are made to work specifically with my car, no modification necessary, and of course the quality is unparalleled. Plus, OEM parts for my car aren't much more than "quality" aftermarket parts anyway.
I see people buy really cheap brakes and it just isn't worth it. Especially on later model cars. Like the cars that have this whole auto braking safety features. For example I work for Volvo and most of the cars from 2011 up have the feature. When people put aftermarket pads on the car, if City Safety activates it might not stop the car as effectively as it would with the brakes designed specifically for the csr
I know exactly what you mean. I once bought brake rotors from Autozone's shitty Duralast line, and the two front rotors were warped within two weeks. You get what you pay for. As for the auto-braking feature, I have no clue. My daily driver is a 2004 Kia Spectra, and my weekend toy is a 1986 Mustang. I don't know a lot about modern cars.
I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe, will the Lower Control Arm / Ball Joint cause it to pulls to left when accelerating, then when I let go of the throttle, the car goes right and also Clunks and Knocks
Eric, how did you find that the ball joint was loose in the control arm?...When you started to take everything apart, it looked like the ball joint was fine..
i have to replacebthe axle in mine (2002 santa fe), but notice the pinch bolt is rounded out, Ive tried checking pep boys and other similar stores but havent been able to find one, where would you go check?
hi South Main Auto Repair, my car is Hyundai santa fe 2007 I did take out the pin and the nut but the bolt ( at CV boot ) can not pull out. I did lubricated and use hammer like you did on video but I can not take it out (another side I use compact gun with socket 17mm try to turn the bolt around, but the bolt did not turn) could you tell me what to do. Thanks
+affane78 Thanks I have most of the old one off, but have a few issues, I cant get the front bolt out of the frame, It just spins. Also can't find a part number for a new bolt and nut at the spindle side. (the one he hammered out) i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z451/hanly2/20151102_095436.jpg
Try heat... i had that issue... we cut thru the k frame in order to access the nut inside of it then blasted it with beat whilst unscrewing... it's a bad design because if it fails theres little a diyer can do to fix it
hey if the one of the two bolts connected to the subframe is spinning when trying to back out or tighten how would i get to the back of the bolt to hold it down to get out
go get the recall at the dealership...they will put in a brand new subframe for free 2500 job saftey recall will take care of mount hole rottong for a-arm if u didnt kno the subframe is the whole frame thats holding a-arm on
What if I can't take out the bolts out from the chassis as the nuts are turning in the chassis. As I can't take the wishbone. What do I do now please help as in lm stuck as the bolts are half off
I have a 2010 hyundai santa fe awd it's eating the front tires off I got brand new front tires for it 4 months ago and there already worn out and I also had a all 4 wheel alignment when I bought the new front tires I'm not sure why it's going through tires like that any idea on what can cause it to do that?
who is doing your alignment. They should tell you if you have any worn parts that could cause this before they do the alignment. if you are doing firestone or any company like that, that is probably your problem. Go to hunters website, they pretty much make the worlds best, dummy proof alignment machine. a reputable tech should be able to find out the issue. suspensions aren't rock science. What kind of wear do you have? Note that tire pressure is huge! you should check them at least once a month, especially during change of season. Follow what is says on your door sticker, not what someone thinks is good tire pressure.
Found out that it might be a bad strut and but they told me it was just the tires I bought but it was still in perfect alignment. The shop that does mine is pretty good place done review on them and they done some other alignments to my other vehicles with no problem.
No doubt you've moved on but could be the front bush on the front lower control arm. Ok static alignment but when driving the wheels splay out grinding the inside of the tyres.
Ah the early days! Mr. O sure has changed for the better. The early ones are good videos, the later ones have great commentary, humor and of course, EXCELLENT repair work like the older ones.
Decided to watch a few on lower ball joint replacement and you're is the best one with the most information...
I appreciate you are a very good teacher that's one of the number one things to be in a good teacher is being visibly out of the way so you can see what you're working on and you do that thank you
I gotta replace the ball joints on my car, I have these man-sized pot holes to thank for.
I guess it's pot-luck when it comes to aftermarket parts.
You made it look easy, thanks for the vid.
Rakatawhat YW Hope it helps
Excellent video, very detailed and just what I needed to help me do this job on my own Santa Fe. Thanks!
Good technique on the bushing pushed in too far. Made it look easy. Thanks
Still like to rewatch the older ones. Wow! Hard to believe it has been 7 years since this one was posted.
I own a first gen ( 2004) , need to do this to mine . Great job & all your videos rock
Excellent job in your explanations and putting camera right where we need to see what you're doing. Was thinking of doing this job on my '03 Santa Fe and your explanations show this won't be too bad of a job. Thanks!
It's so true that you're only as good as your tools! The right ones make things easier. Awesome video. Now I can see what my car needs in 2021. Thx
I'll be doing this tomorrow. Just waiting for the control arm to arrive. Thanks for the video.
Good video! You got the parts from Advance and i wish I could know what brand you ended up using cus my mechanic is charging me $600+
Thanks for posting this video. I did notice that you bolted it down without the weight of the vehicle. Is that OK? I’m referring to the pinch
Easy to follow, thank you for a great video. I'll be doing this repair as well as new CV axle's next weekend.
I've always seen those LCA tools in the catalogs from Advance auto....Never realized they were that big..I couldn't see how it would be useful before but now it looks like I'll be picking one up.
Oh you won't regret it. I work alone most of the time. They are really really handy!
I appreciate the sharing of alternate ways to get the job done. Thanks for sharing!
Great & simple video, thanks! Not the info I was looking for, but it did give me some insight on other facets of that type of repair. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video!
Instablaster...
Good video, but confused. Why on earth would you replace the entire control arm just because the aftermarket ball joint you bought did not fit? Am I missing something? Did you not ensure the part you bought was an exact fitment for this vehicle and cross-compare the original OEM part number? Or is there something else. Like perhaps the control arm hole that the ball joint goes into was damaged or worn out from being loose and rattling around and it damaged it? If so, you did not mention that. And when you fit that ball joint in, there was no close up, but it appeared to fit like a glove. Anyway, if I was confused, I'm sure others were.
Eric, have you seen the video that the other Eric made replacing a ball joint? I believe it was in a Nissan Sentra. He popped out the old one which was loose as can be, then tried to put the new Moog one in and seen it just slid right in too easily. Lol so he proceeded to blame moog for making the ball joint too small and comes up with the brilliant idea of putting a couple tiny, very amateur, tack welds on the top to keep it In place... claiming its "better than a press in one that would have fit"! It's a must see, haha. Thank you for showing your viewers there are good mechanics out their that genuinely care about their safety and do the job right the first time;)
+Nick Schneider Yeah I saw it, in my book that is a very halfassed repair but that is how he wants to conduct his business then that is his prerogative. In that case the control arm was an aftermarket one clearly and should have been replaced. It is the only option IMO.
Work out all day with you , live and learn from the best !!!
there should be a flat rate charge in its own when dealing with rust..great video Eric.
Facts💯dealing with this rust bullshit in northern Midwest state
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe I was wondering can a bad ball joint ruin the transmission in any way from all the moving around. I'm talking about the kind of ball joint that causes your tire to wander harshly. Thank you for your reply I really like your videos man you have helped me so much. Always straight forward and to the point. And with a little humor too LOL thanks brother
Eric i sooooo wish youd do a video on a rack n pinion on 01-06 3.5 santa fe. Theres only one on here and he does it without dropping the subframe. Im not sure what else besides the lines, ball joint, sway bar link , tie rod, discomn😢from strut... Both sides... But is there a motir mout you gotta disconnect? Just curious. By the way stuntman says WHATS UP... CAMERAMAN TOO
Boy this is an early one!
thank you, you're so clear and easy to follow.
With that part replacement. Is an alignment necessary? I need to have a ball joint replaced soon.
Good job nice clear talking hats off
Great job on the video, I am starting this project right now, thanks to your tutorial.
You made it look easy. Thanks
just found your channel the other day and have really enjoyed your vids and your expertise. boy it's a shame that the name brand aftermarket parts are not as precise as the used to be. I have run into this on several occasions. keep up the good work. you have a top notch shop there.
Hey thanks for watching George Heri ! Oh the aftermarket is on the downward china spiral with everything else unfortunately...
Oh no, I just spent 600 bucks on struts and sway bar link and bushings. Am I gonna have to do this control arm now too? It's got 207K miles, 2007 entourage with a noisy lifter. Maybe I should have just got another car
Greetings for you from Iraq
I've got an old track bar from the Dodge Ram, and it looks to me like I could use it to make that tool you use to pull the control arm down. That would be a fun little project out of junk yard parts, ha ha.
Perfect video. Am I looking at the same setup on my 2009 Santa Fe? Thx!
Hello
I have a Hyundai santa fe from 2001, the videos are very helpful, but I can't understand everything (I'm from Poland).
I have a big request, could you please add subtitles to the videos (then I would understand a lot more)
regards
Great video thank you very much for sharing much appreciated
Great video!!! I'm going to the auto store now to imitate
Very cool to watch well done Im about to have it done and I wanted to check what it was about
Thanks for showing me bro👍 save myself $300.00.. 2021.. What😷👍
Hyundai is the best from the rest✌
Great tool for the control arm. Is it available to the public if so how much and where.
At min 8:40, where do the bolts screw in to? I could only get one the other sounds like something fell inyethe chassis
Wow!!!! That's Eric O? Didn't recognize him without his Jeep cap on.
Good video very informative.great work
I have a 2009 hyundai tucson from new. Have been told front lower bushings are starting to crack and easier to replace both arm controls to do it. Have been quoted A$1,000! These arms are really cheap on ebay etc so wondering am I getting ripped off?
Where did you get that tool to lower the control arm?
Excellent video!
Great Stuff...I am learning so much Eric O. I am wondering " Is that big red handle you used to separate the lower control arm for sale anywhere??? Never mind I was just reading some comment and found the answer I was looking for.
Well done Erick
Nice, helpful video. But shouldn’t the arm be in road position before tightening the front bushing through bolt? Otherwise the bushing is operating in a twisted condition which hastens its demise.
Sir, can't we still use the control arm part and change only the bushings, ball joints etc?
Any issues of reusing the control arm back???
I had a 1999 Dodge Dakota Sport a while back that needed new lower ball joints and controls arms. I bought new Moog parts but after comparing them to the old Dodge parts the Moogs weren't as beefy. I was able to find new OEM parts for the Dodge on eBay and install them. Why would the Moogs not be identical to the old OEM parts?
Do you use anti seize on the bolts and should they be torqued??
Thanks!
Now I know, & knowing is half the battle.
out of curiosity if you did just put the ball joint in would you have pressed it in on the car or taken the arm off and do it on the bench?
How about a video on yukon lower a-arm replacement
Well done 👏 ✔ 👍
I have the exact model that you're working on in this video, right down to the color..lol.186,000 mi.
it's been great but now everything is starting to go. My question is I just had the right front CV joint & half axle replaced which is fine but when I dropped it off at the shop I also mentioned a low speed "shimmy" from the front end that radiated through the steering wheel very much. I figured it was due to the CV joint...but it wasn't! The mechanic said everything was fine during the road test but when I drove off it shook the steering wheel just as much as it did before..!!! Do you think I could have a belt that slipped in the tire ( inspected tires nothing apparent) or possibly another front end piece that is making it shake like crazy until you get to about 60mph! Any advice would be greatly appreciated,,, Thanks
Eric, greetings. The two piece front control arm bushing has created a lot of fuzz overseas. Some people say it's easy for that bushing to come apart while driving. What's your opinion on that? Thanks.
Kinda curious do you have to put a load on the control arm?
Great educational information. Thanks
Those long sleeved bolts scare me. Just did a 95 Continental strut and ball joint (same as Taurus) for a relative, with original struts in the front knuckle. Spent 2 hours pounding out the damn 14mm pinch bolt - ended up having to get new hardware after using a ball joint press to get it out. Used every penetrating oil and some heat (it is aluminum, don't want to get it too hot). Had an impact working on it too. That LCA tool would have come in handy.
When I read the *_"for a relative"_* part I knew this wasn't gonna end well haha The LCA tool is pretty great. Saves a lot of monkeying around...
You might look into the Milwaukee 18 volt Angled 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch impact wrenches. My son uses them at the dealer ship and absolutely love the. Huge time savers and can get into tight areas. And really cost effective.
P
Emt Scythe not to bulky?
Not at all. We use them pretty much everyday. Lightweight and has plenty of torque. The batteries last all day. We bought ours from Home Depot ( that's where I found the best price ). Free shipping and they have a 3 year warranty. I have been very pleased.
I have a 2014 hyundai sonata. I replaced the bearings. I had to take out and apart the lower ball joint. When I put the lower ball joint back in it seems to be in all the way but the ball joint sticks out a little bit and the top and seems to be crooked, but the bolt that secures it goes in. My question is I was wondering if the lower ball joint when put it back together is in all the way?
I liked your video very much
I was gonna say you can just weld the replacement ball joint in there...but someone already beat me to the punch LOL
+motoYam82 HA!
love your videos !!
Thars was great! Thanks. On the same car H Sante fe. Anything on the tailgate hatchback handle replacement. Cant find a thing on it.
Hey, what tool is that you're using to separate the ball joint from the knuckle? where can I get it?
Great video Eric thanks man!
Sir same model can you please tackle it how to replace sway bar rubber bushings replace?
Thanks
good stuff, thank you...
hey, do you normally install moog (aftermarket) , or do you first recommend OEM when you tell your customer you have a bad steering suspension component.
Thanks.
Personally I recommend OEM 10/10 times. Unless you're talking like a humongous difference in price. I'm just that kind of guy, I've seen too many aftermarket parts just not work the way they're intended too, or they simply don't fit properly and cause issues down the line. OEM will always be worth it.
Check out his video on the Dodge Dakota front axle noise. That is the PRECISE reason I never recommend aftermarket, lol.
I agree 100%. When it comes to parts like steering, suspension and braking, I ONLY buy OEM for my daily driver. The parts are made to work specifically with my car, no modification necessary, and of course the quality is unparalleled. Plus, OEM parts for my car aren't much more than "quality" aftermarket parts anyway.
I see people buy really cheap brakes and it just isn't worth it. Especially on later model cars. Like the cars that have this whole auto braking safety features. For example I work for Volvo and most of the cars from 2011 up have the feature. When people put aftermarket pads on the car, if City Safety activates it might not stop the car as effectively as it would with the brakes designed specifically for the csr
I know exactly what you mean. I once bought brake rotors from Autozone's shitty Duralast line, and the two front rotors were warped within two weeks. You get what you pay for. As for the auto-braking feature, I have no clue. My daily driver is a 2004 Kia Spectra, and my weekend toy is a 1986 Mustang. I don't know a lot about modern cars.
rewatching the old vids.. this happened to me with a steering knuckle. somehow the wheel bearing bolt holes didnt line up
I need the name of that red tool ASAP
I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe, will the Lower Control Arm / Ball Joint cause it to pulls to left when accelerating, then when I let go of the throttle, the car goes right and also Clunks and Knocks
Eric, how did you find that the ball joint was loose in the control arm?...When you started to take everything apart, it looked like the ball joint was fine..
hllywd964 It's been a while but if I remember right we did this one because the bushings were toast and customer opted for entire arm..
Thanks Eric
I can't get one of my ball joints to come out.
I've tried a pry bar, hammer, and a pickle fork. What would make it so stuck, rust?
What kind of impact wrench are you using good vid
Christian Patterson Most of my impacts are made by IR
+South Main Auto Repair Your 1/2 impact was a dewalt 3/8 cordless and MAC1/2 inch pnmeumatic. Noob.... lol
Thanks for the video.
Awesome! thanks.
i have to replacebthe axle in mine (2002 santa fe), but notice the pinch bolt is rounded out, Ive tried checking pep boys and other similar stores but havent been able to find one, where would you go check?
Hey Eric. How high do I need to lift the car up to work on it
Perfect, thanks.
Hey, can you post a link to the control arm pry bar?
good job , like the video
I take it the tornado didn't sweep you away? Sounded like tornado sirens in the background lol.
hi South Main Auto Repair,
my car is Hyundai santa fe 2007
I did take out the pin and the nut but the bolt ( at CV boot ) can not pull out. I did lubricated and use hammer like you did on video but I can not take it out (another side I use compact gun with socket 17mm try to turn the bolt around, but the bolt did not turn) could you tell me what to do. Thanks
So there is no loaded pressure on the spring? I can do this without worrying about it?
+Angry Jeff no worries, nothing to do with the spring
+affane78 Thanks I have most of the old one off, but have a few issues, I cant get the front bolt out of the frame, It just spins. Also can't find a part number for a new bolt and nut at the spindle side. (the one he hammered out)
i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z451/hanly2/20151102_095436.jpg
Try heat... i had that issue... we cut thru the k frame in order to access the nut inside of it then blasted it with beat whilst unscrewing... it's a bad design because if it fails theres little a diyer can do to fix it
For a pinch bolt i'd go to the nearest dealership or junkyard if ur close to one
+affane78 there's also a recall on the subframe... google search it. if you qualify you may get brand new parts installed for free
So, do I need a powered impact wench to get those nuts off? I tried with a regular wench and darn near stripped the bolt!
hey if the one of the two bolts connected to the subframe is spinning when trying to back out or tighten how would i get to the back of the bolt to hold it down to get out
go get the recall at the dealership...they will put in a brand new subframe for free 2500 job saftey recall will take care of mount hole rottong for a-arm if u didnt kno the subframe is the whole frame thats holding a-arm on
thank you so much
What if I can't take out the bolts out from the chassis as the nuts are turning in the chassis. As I can't take the wishbone. What do I do now please help as in lm stuck as the bolts are half off
How do you change the front bushing on the control arm
Til now I cannot find a video
How to replace sway bar bushings. On 2003 Santa Fe. Can someone help me out.
What happens when one of the two bolts and the one by itself facing down just spins in place. Seems like I'm screwed
there is a recall on the subframe for rust issues. Have Hyundai replace the subframe for free if you live in a rust belt area.
I have a 2010 hyundai santa fe awd it's eating the front tires off I got brand new front tires for it 4 months ago and there already worn out and I also had a all 4 wheel alignment when I bought the new front tires I'm not sure why it's going through tires like that any idea on what can cause it to do that?
who is doing your alignment. They should tell you if you have any worn parts that could cause this before they do the alignment. if you are doing firestone or any company like that, that is probably your problem. Go to hunters website, they pretty much make the worlds best, dummy proof alignment machine. a reputable tech should be able to find out the issue. suspensions aren't rock science. What kind of wear do you have? Note that tire pressure is huge! you should check them at least once a month, especially during change of season. Follow what is says on your door sticker, not what someone thinks is good tire pressure.
hunters website has a locator for there machines, find one near by and cross reference yelp for good reviews.
Found out that it might be a bad strut and but they told me it was just the tires I bought but it was still in perfect alignment. The shop that does mine is pretty good place done review on them and they done some other alignments to my other vehicles with no problem.
Sounds like you have an incompetent mechanic.
No doubt you've moved on but could be the front bush on the front lower control arm. Ok static alignment but when driving the wheels splay out grinding the inside of the tyres.
Would you like that done on your vehicle
That's the first time I have seen cotter pin on a pinch bolt
Careful pounding on that nut. Hit it a bit off, and you'll bung up the threads on the nut.
NO NEED TO GREASE THE BALLJOINT????