**MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659** amzn.to/3c1oANf Fits: Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD Kia Sorento 2014-2015 Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was exactly what I needed to get this job done. You saved a stranger and his family a bunch of cash, and these days every dollar matters! Thanks
I taught myself that trick. I was working on a Ford many years ago doing suspension work and had the hardest time of my life connecting the drivers side sway bar link. Live, learn and help others.
You are so awesome! Excellent instructional video and you get right to the point! Saved my son a couple hundred bucks doing it himself. Car rides like new with no noise!
And the shop wanted to charge my ole man nearly a thousand dollars to fix this clunk! When we've got fellas like yourself giving so much useful knowledge, there's no way I'd have someone else work on my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth break down!
My stupid mechanic told me that clonking noise was the caliper pins that were worn..i then purchased an entire set of caliper pins and the noise was still there 😡..only after watching this video, I did the bump test and it's exactly the same noise with the worn linkage... I will be changing that next weekend.. Thank you for posting this video 🙂 Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 (caribbean)
Great job Glen making the proper diagnosis and repair. This reminds me of the cartoon I saw about the mechanic that had the car all apart and told the customer we found your noise. It was a marble in the ashtray...lol, Have a great weekend
I don't need to do this job...YET, but now I know the proper names of a few suspension components and how to diagnose and deal with "clunks." I've done engine and brake and cluthc issues but have tended to shy away from suspension related gremlins. Not any more. Very good video.
Hey Glen, just wanted to thank you for this great video. The tip of lifting the car slightly on the opposite side made the trick for removing the damaged part. You are the man! Thanks again and many blessings to you and your family!
You could as well put the jack down the low arm of the side you working at and lift it a little bit, then you can make the screw go out easily. This way you do not need to lift up the other car´s side ;), BTW of you are going to check the car after this, you just can disconect only the lower screw of the link instead of removing the whole link before to replace it.
Great video, great technique, very thorough. I'm getting the same "Clunk" on our 14.5' Range Rover Sport with 106K miles... The "Clunk" is coming from the drivers side wheel well area which would indicate it's something either attached to the knuckle/HUB, air-strut, or sway bar/links... Now I'm 95% sure it's either the sway-bar bushings and/or the sway-bar end links. Happens on medium to hard acceleration. I bought both OEM sway-bar bushings and as for the end-links as I went with the Moog serviceable end-links too. Going to install them this weekend God-willing... I hate that "Clunking" sound. Thanks again for the diagnosis that the Dealer has missed twice and costed me over 3K chasing down.
Best video I've seen explaining everything, pointing out how to check everything. Will be replacing my sway bar links this weekend. Went with the Mevotech greaseable bars, hope to get a little extra life out of them. My vehicle is a 2008 Sebring convertible with the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder. Has a little over 132K, but is starting to show her age. Again, thanks for the video, had heard about this procedure to either keep the cat on the ground or have both wheels off and in the air. I will use my jack stands and replaced the links while car is off ground, much easier installation!
I just bought a 2012 Santa Fe limited has 177k miles kinda weird most times drives smooth as can be other times I feel like vibration and can hear something making noise sounds like front driver side. Tires look brand new. I don’t know if rim is bad but don’t make sense cause smoothes out and drives perfectly most times weird any advice be welcome. I just bought it can’t afford be putting bunch more money into it
Excellent video got a quote of $600 dollars to change out plugs and pcv looks like 110 dollars in parts. Going to try this a few weeks did you film the throttle body cleaning. I've read there is a certain way to do it. Thanks again.
could a bad sway bar lik affect front camber on kia/Hyundai? I've negative camber on front left wheel, steering wheel a little bit on left and sometimes I feel some "click click"
I like your videos Glen of where you show each step. I assume that anyone who watches doesn't know and you've got them covered. And for the ones who do know, they'll just skip through the video. My first thought about that impression was that you were pressing on the stabilizer link bolt. So, to confirm it, I back tracked through the video to see you doing that, but you were using your thumb. I see further down in the comments, that's what you were doing. I guess you cut that part out. Anyway, great video and keep up the good work! 😊👍
I purchased Hyundai OEM from Rockauto. They didn't have any grease in them and one was as bad loose as one i was replacing. I ended up reusing the good one i just took off. It has 293k miles on it.
Does this vehicle have a top and bottom oil pan?? I was told by a mechanic that I have a leak coming from the top oil pan, and that the engine has to be lowered to repair it.
My clunk, was the stabilizer link. Devil of a time finding which one. Meaning, it always sounded off on the RF. It turned out to be the LEFT FRONT, LOWER sway bar link joint was the culprit. It projected the noise to sound like the right front. The top of the link was still tight, that kept me from getting a shake test by grabbing the link to check for play.
I was waiting to see how you got the bottom 17mm nut loose. There is almost no room with the control arm and Kia manual shows dropping the subframe and removing the whole bar. No way I will do that. I'm honna go struggle to get it off now. How much difference would a grease fittings make, if maintained by greasing it regular, versus life without a grease fittings. Parts are relatively cheap and my own links for the 2005 and have 232k miles with no grease fittings. The clunk is annoying, but not a big issue. I finally decided to change the links to see if the clunk goes away, rather than jumping into any other parts. Update, replaced sway bar links, control arms and struts. Strut tops were bad, but the clunk was still there. Today I confirmed the noise is from worn stabilizer bushings that hold it to the frame. Now the problem is that to get to the bolts for the bushings, it requires loosening or removing the subframe to reach the bolts. I did see a video where they loosened and dropped the subframe slightly, but even then it's a pain in the arse.
Brilliant advice I changed the bars on mine I had a nightmare because I only had one side off the ground after seeing this man do it right with the tip put both sides off the ground so simple thanks my friend I will be following your video's 😊
super super helpful video sir... very well explained in detail.. you should b a shop teacher and show our nexr gen. how to wrench! boy do they need it!
There are four jacking points located at the ends of each rocker. Safety stands are under the chassis as back up. Look at the owners manual for the location.
Quick way to check those sway bar links. While the car is on the ground, turn the steering wheel so you can have a little access to the sway bar. Put a pry bar long enough to reach between the control arm and sway bar. Pull the pray bar up and down. You will hear the the clunk noise. You must have the pray bar between the control arm and sway bar.
Thank you for showing everyone how to do this procedure. I've been trying to diagnose the annoying clunking noise in my 09 Santa Fe for a month with no success. This video was such a great find. You're in depth instructions are a life saver. I now have a go to place for help with any issues on my Hyundai. Keep up the great work and thank you again for showing us how to diagnose and fix these annoying problems.
My wife drove ours for months and didn't think anything was wrong. I just took it for a quick spin and right away noticed the noise. It's a guy thing! lol
I have a 2013 A6 with clunking that I hear on all 4 corners. Do you think this is control arm bushings?? I’m thinking it’s probably lien struts or strut mounts since it’s at all 4 corners.
Have the same issue. The car dealership said they don’t hear it. I get in and immediately hear it. Now I know the terms to use…. Wish you lived closer. Thanks again……
I had a question I drove my 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe sport to Rochester NY and my front end was making a humming noise when I was going about 72 mph what would the problem be.
Great video. When you’re talking about the clunking sound, does it ever sound like two pieces of sheet metal hitting each other? Mines is like a loud tacking going over bumps and dips. Took it to three mechanics including the dealership and no one can figure it out.
If the links are very worn out then it's metal on metal sound. Also a wandering feeling in the steering wheel when going straight. Good luck let us know what you find. Maybe show this video to one of your mechanics. 😉
Thanks for the quick response. Appreciate it. I have a new mechanic stopping by today so I will show him and hopefully he figure this out. Mahalo. @@ozzstars_cars
Thank you for the video! This ended up being the issue on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Unfortunately, I dumped a lot of money on shocks and struts (though they were close to needing to be replaced). Drives so much better now.
Just about to tackle my 2012 Elantra ( 200,000 miles). While doing an oil change, I noticed the ball joint of the stabilizer had come right out. Oops. Did tie rod ends before and this looks easier.
@@marcknightly9677 - I do wonder if my ball joints are bad. The loud clunking sound is gone but there is still a click sound on some bumps. It is better than it was before.
Great video, thanks, I have a 2021 Hyundai Venue, and that's exactly the noise I am getting, its only done 7.000 KS, have taken it to 3 Hyundai dealers, they say it's nothing to worry about . Not so, I am an 83-year-old mechanic . Its not right also its under 5-year warrany . I will try to inspect the link . Thanks again
Great video---really helps confirm what mechanic told me. How many labor hours should mechanic/repair charge me for replacing 2 (driver/passenger) sway bars on on car (Kia sorento twin to sante fe)? I will buy parts from your Amazon link. Also donating to your paypal account for this tip. Thanks!
Hi Matthew the sway bar link replacement should take no more than 1/2 hour labor to do both sides by a professional. Technically they could be replaced in about 20 minutes. Make sure if you go with Moog brand links that they are greased properly after installation. Thanks for your comment and kind generosity sir!!
@@matthewkerr4465 it could be a safety issue except for the fact that steering stability is lost. So if the vehicle would need to make a hard turn maneuver to avoid an accident the vehicle could get out of control. Good question!
Hi this may help I’m not sure, if you pulled the rod out of your grease gun it would stop the seeping of grease as the piston inside is under spring pressure, of course this makes it awkward for storing it so is why most people don’t bother. Just a thought. Danny
Awesome vid ! My gun bleeds too 🥴🤣 it’s so annoying. I think during summer it’s worse. So no I just leave it in oil pan. I thought it was just me with a defective grease gun.
Terrific video! Appreciate the tips. I get nervous rocking the tire from 6/12 position without a jackstand for redundancy, so now I take the extra few minutes.
As an aside, there is a recall on certain 2016-2017MY Sorentos for the front ball joints. They will be replaced free of charge, according to the NHTSA document.
Can you tell me what the torque should be on the moog stabilizer link on 2010 elantra GL, 4 door sedan. What happends if you over torque the link? Thanks
Thanks for sharing, going to this this on my wife’s 2010 SF. Also bought the “grease-able” kind. Really wished the car manufacturers kept the zerk fittings for the suspension systems.
Great video! Ya, my grease gun leaks as well. I think it's just the oil separating from the grease. Mine is so old, that the grease won't even pump anymore. All the oil leaks out and leaves a dried up lump in the gun. If you don't use the gun often enough, this will happen. I'll have to get a new tube before I start the end links. LOL! What a mess to change it!
Zerks, I prefer Grease Nipples😉. I had the same problem with my grease gun all the liquid came out during a heat wave and what was lift was dry grease. I put a new cartridge, I now leave the pressure off by pulling the (plunger) handle all the way out and locking it so the grease is not under pressure all the time while stored. Also wedge a bolt in there so it doesn't snap back accidentally . 👍
Thanks for the video. Was 99% sure I had the same problem. Only wanted to change the one. Ended up not the one I thought. Great tips and appreciate the video.
I just drove my 2012 sonata off a tall curb and I believe I smacked the control arm I don’t think it was the rim, how many hours of labor am I looking at by the book so I don’t get ripped off at Goodyear lol?
Hi great video, confirmed what I had thought, would the wear of the stab link be attributed to the replacement of the struts I had done about 2 months ago . Apparently no other issues were found then . Thanks again
Great video! Easy to follow, matter of fact. I recently upgraded to a third generation Santa Fe from a 2nd generation thanks to a huge tree limb that crushed my car while parked. I can hear the clunk when the dealership cannot, I will be replacing the sway bar link after assessment. Thanks!
hI I have installed moog swaay bar link in hond pilot with zirk fitting, an year ago, i livein rust belt, chicago, when i try to greese, i never see grease coming out on boot, will there be a chance that zerk fitting got rusted out .. I dont know the reason behind that
I have a creaking sound from the left front when I make a right turn and in cooler termperature weather. Could that also be a bad joint in the sway bar link?
@@ozzstars_cars I read a long thread on a forum where some people with Elantras have the same noise as me and their eventual discovery was that the offending part was the left side lower engine mount.
**MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659** amzn.to/3c1oANf
Fits:
Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD
Kia Sorento 2014-2015
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
@@ozzstars_cars?
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was exactly what I needed to get this job done. You saved a stranger and his family a bunch of cash, and these days every dollar matters! Thanks
Glad I was able to help.
Great video explaining noise I'm dealing with. Why would anyone thumbs down. Haters are probably jealous.
Thank you sir
This folks is how you make a how to video, thank you sir. 👏
Glad you mentioned taking pressure off drop link by jacking up other side. Thanks
I taught myself that trick. I was working on a Ford many years ago doing suspension work and had the hardest time of my life connecting the drivers side sway bar link. Live, learn and help others.
You are so awesome! Excellent instructional video and you get right to the point! Saved my son a couple hundred bucks doing it himself. Car rides like new with no noise!
That is great news Bob!
And the shop wanted to charge my ole man nearly a thousand dollars to fix this clunk! When we've got fellas like yourself giving so much useful knowledge, there's no way I'd have someone else work on my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth break down!
You got it man!
That dent is from grabbing the sway bar link demonstrating the problem of the clunking noise.
Winner Winner dirty bird dinner
My stupid mechanic told me that clonking noise was the caliper pins that were worn..i then purchased an entire set of caliper pins and the noise was still there 😡..only after watching this video, I did the bump test and it's exactly the same noise with the worn linkage...
I will be changing that next weekend..
Thank you for posting this video 🙂
Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 (caribbean)
Sounds like a nice warm place to be. It was 13⁰f here this morning. Good luck with the fix, show him my video. 🙄
@@ozzstars_cars it's hot 🔥
81°f
@@ozzstars_cars how do I send you the video when I change the linkage?
Great job Glen making the proper diagnosis and repair. This reminds me of the cartoon I saw about the mechanic that had the car all apart and told the customer we found your noise. It was a marble in the ashtray...lol, Have a great weekend
😄
I don't need to do this job...YET, but now I know the proper names of a few suspension components and how to diagnose and deal with "clunks." I've done engine and brake and cluthc issues but have tended to shy away from suspension related gremlins. Not any more. Very good video.
Thanks for your comment. Now you know!
Hey Glen, just wanted to thank you for this great video. The tip of lifting the car slightly on the opposite side made the trick for removing the damaged part. You are the man! Thanks again and many blessings to you and your family!
Glad the video helped Javi!
You could as well put the jack down the low arm of the side you working at and lift it a little bit, then you can make the screw go out easily. This way you do not need to lift up the other car´s side ;), BTW of you are going to check the car after this, you just can disconect only the lower screw of the link instead of removing the whole link before to replace it.
Great video, great technique, very thorough. I'm getting the same "Clunk" on our 14.5' Range Rover Sport with 106K miles... The "Clunk" is coming from the drivers side wheel well area which would indicate it's something either attached to the knuckle/HUB, air-strut, or sway bar/links... Now I'm 95% sure it's either the sway-bar bushings and/or the sway-bar end links. Happens on medium to hard acceleration. I bought both OEM sway-bar bushings and as for the end-links as I went with the Moog serviceable end-links too. Going to install them this weekend God-willing... I hate that "Clunking" sound. Thanks again for the diagnosis that the Dealer has missed twice and costed me over 3K chasing down.
Let us know how it goes Jeremy. 👍
Oh and BTW if you fix the problem, show the stealership the video. 😁
Best video, thanks a lot my regards to you from libya
Best video I've seen explaining everything, pointing out how to check everything. Will be replacing my sway bar links this weekend. Went with the Mevotech greaseable bars, hope to get a little extra life out of them. My vehicle is a 2008 Sebring convertible with the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder. Has a little over 132K, but is starting to show her age. Again, thanks for the video, had heard about this procedure to either keep the cat on the ground or have both wheels off and in the air. I will use my jack stands and replaced the links while car is off ground, much easier installation!
Good luck with the fix Rich. Let us know how it goes!
Wow. What a perfect, professional video explanation in every way. Thank you Sir!
Thanks GG
AGREED!
Just had sway bar links replaced. Still clunks on bumps just as badly.
'07 Hyundai Accent coupe. 184,000 miles. What next?
Find a competent mechanic that can diagnose the problem. Let us know if you can what the problem was.
I just bought a 2012 Santa Fe limited has 177k miles kinda weird most times drives smooth as can be other times I feel like vibration and can hear something making noise sounds like front driver side. Tires look brand new. I don’t know if rim is bad but don’t make sense cause smoothes out and drives perfectly most times weird any advice be welcome. I just bought it can’t afford be putting bunch more money into it
That's tough to diagnose over the internet.
Excellent video got a quote of $600 dollars to change out plugs and pcv looks like 110 dollars in parts. Going to try this a few weeks did you film the throttle body cleaning. I've read there is a certain way to do it. Thanks again.
I might have a throttle body cleaning video, hard to remember with 300+ videos posted. Nothing special to cleaning.
could a bad sway bar lik affect front camber on kia/Hyundai? I've negative camber on front left wheel, steering wheel a little bit on left and sometimes I feel some "click click"
@ganakil has the control arm bushings and ball joint been checked? Sways bars have little to no effect on camber when the vehicle is sitting static.
Excellent video. I have a similar "Clunk" on my Palisade. I wonder if this is the fix, after TWO shock replacements?
How many miles on the Palisade? I'm looking at a 2024 model. How do you like the car?
Great video, you deserve a 5 stars for explaining in such detail et make sure that the camera focus and lighting are alway good! Thank you very much!
Only.one way to do things, that's the right way.👍 Thank you.
I have a small pile of old stabilizer links .....I'm collecting them lol...
Going to weld them together and make a sculpture? Pays better. haha
@@ozzstars_cars you know me so well 😂
Well done, definitely feel confident about doing a replacement now 👍
Take your time and double check the work.
I replaced it on my h. Tucson, i can still hear the noise when going over small humps
@@victorgalleno4938 check the ball joints?
That’s the exact problem I’m having with my 2017 Santa Fe. Have to,take it in soon to get fixed.
I like your videos Glen of where you show each step. I assume that anyone who watches doesn't know and you've got them covered. And for the ones who do know, they'll just skip through the video. My first thought about that impression was that you were pressing on the stabilizer link bolt. So, to confirm it, I back tracked through the video to see you doing that, but you were using your thumb. I see further down in the comments, that's what you were doing. I guess you cut that part out. Anyway, great video and keep up the good work! 😊👍
The magic of editing. 😁 Thanks Terry.
I purchased Hyundai OEM from Rockauto. They didn't have any grease in them and one was as bad loose as one i was replacing. I ended up reusing the good one i just took off. It has 293k miles on it.
Wow that's some serious mileage!
@@ozzstars_cars it's been a very good car. But lazy me has ignored the suspension and in the process of replacing stuff :)
Very informative, Thank you. You repaired or replaced the sway bar link?
By far the best video I’ve seen. The detail, providing walkthrough on identifying the issue. Well done.
@@dgloodt thanks for the kind words!
Does this vehicle have a top and bottom oil pan?? I was told by a mechanic that I have a leak coming from the top oil pan, and that the engine has to be lowered to repair it.
Some engines do have two pans. No cap.
My clunk, was the stabilizer link. Devil of a time finding which one. Meaning, it always sounded off on the RF. It turned out to be the LEFT FRONT, LOWER sway bar link joint was the culprit. It projected the noise to sound like the right front. The top of the link was still tight, that kept me from getting a shake test by grabbing the link to check for play.
Yeah man, it happens! Good find.
Super, thanks for the good explanation ! God bless you!
Great video ,,,wen replacing the sway bar do i need a alignment?
Sway bar repair/replacement does not require an alignment
Thankyou for sharing this Hyundai always seemed to charge me $600 Cad to do this and I've had three so far.
I was waiting to see how you got the bottom 17mm nut loose. There is almost no room with the control arm and Kia manual shows dropping the subframe and removing the whole bar.
No way I will do that.
I'm honna go struggle to get it off now.
How much difference would a grease fittings make, if maintained by greasing it regular, versus life without a grease fittings.
Parts are relatively cheap and my own links for the 2005 and have 232k miles with no grease fittings.
The clunk is annoying, but not a big issue.
I finally decided to change the links to see if the clunk goes away, rather than jumping into any other parts.
Update, replaced sway bar links, control arms and struts. Strut tops were bad, but the clunk was still there. Today I confirmed the noise is from worn stabilizer bushings that hold it to the frame. Now the problem is that to get to the bolts for the bushings, it requires loosening or removing the subframe to reach the bolts. I did see a video where they loosened and dropped the subframe slightly, but even then it's a pain in the arse.
When I spin my wheel hub on the right side (with brakes detached) it grinds. Unsure what this is? Left is quiet when I spin it
I'm pretty sure you know now. 😏
@@ozzstars_cars lol, not really, but my guess is wheel bearing
Awesome man was trying to find torque specs for this vehicle. Thanks for saying 80!
Thanks for the video, very professional. Where to put jack stands exactly when i lift the car ? Subframe ends ?
Brilliant advice I changed the bars on mine I had a nightmare because I only had one side off the ground after seeing this man do it right with the tip put both sides off the ground so simple thanks my friend I will be following your video's 😊
super super helpful video sir... very well explained in detail.. you should b a shop teacher and show our nexr gen. how to wrench! boy do they need it!
@@tudocervera3764 thank you for the kind words. -Glen
Where did you place the Jack's and stands
There are four jacking points located at the ends of each rocker. Safety stands are under the chassis as back up. Look at the owners manual for the location.
Quick way to check those sway bar links. While the car is on the ground, turn the steering wheel so you can have a little access to the sway bar. Put a pry bar long enough to reach between the control arm and sway bar. Pull the pray bar up and down. You will hear the the clunk noise. You must have the pray bar between the control arm and sway bar.
I need a pray bar.
Thanks so much. Very helpful
You're welcome!
Thank you for showing everyone how to do this procedure. I've been trying to diagnose the annoying clunking noise in my 09 Santa Fe for a month with no success. This video was such a great find. You're in depth instructions are a life saver. I now have a go to place for help with any issues on my Hyundai. Keep up the great work and thank you again for showing us how to diagnose and fix these annoying problems.
Thanks for the kind words Jeff!! -Glen (Ozz)
Great video! Appreciate your time.😊
You're welcome. Thanks
My wife drove ours for months and didn't think anything was wrong. I just took it for a quick spin and right away noticed the noise. It's a guy thing! lol
It's a world wide phenomenon! lol
Great Video, I appreciate you taking the time showing us that job.
You're welcome Alex
Great video my man. You rock.
Thanks Chris!
My Verna 2007, is also same condition. Will check on same. I already ordered link rods.
I have a 2013 A6 with clunking that I hear on all 4 corners. Do you think this is control arm bushings?? I’m thinking it’s probably lien struts or strut mounts since it’s at all 4 corners.
You won't know until you diagnose the car properly. I have no way of telling what's wrong over the internet. Hope you find the prob soon!
Have the same issue. The car dealership said they don’t hear it. I get in and immediately hear it. Now I know the terms to use…. Wish you lived closer. Thanks again……
Awesome man those links can be a bit tricky at times depending on type of cars and the weight that either sits on it or pulls on it.
Do you need to do an alignment after?
For replacing sway bar links? Nope.
I had a question I drove my 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe sport to Rochester NY and my front end was making a humming noise when I was going about 72 mph what would the problem be.
Sorry I can't diagnose that problem over the internet.
Great video. When you’re talking about the clunking sound, does it ever sound like two pieces of sheet metal hitting each other? Mines is like a loud tacking going over bumps and dips. Took it to three mechanics including the dealership and no one can figure it out.
If the links are very worn out then it's metal on metal sound. Also a wandering feeling in the steering wheel when going straight. Good luck let us know what you find. Maybe show this video to one of your mechanics. 😉
Thanks for the quick response. Appreciate it. I have a new mechanic stopping by today so I will show him and hopefully he figure this out. Mahalo. @@ozzstars_cars
My noise was unbearable on a bumpy road, turned out to be upper strut mounts. Quick struts took care of it.
Thanks @@GeorgeKennedy-u4r. For some reason after going over a speed bump, the noise disappeared again so I have to wait to see my mechanic.
Excellent video. I have the same sound. Ill be doing this check on my car tomorrow. Very informative.
Glad the video was helpful. I just swapped out the sway bar links on an '07 Hyundai Azera today. Big improvement in handling and ride!
I just hope this solves my problem
Let us know
One of the best instructional videos I have seen on TH-cam. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Andy!
AGREED!
Thank you for the video! This ended up being the issue on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Unfortunately, I dumped a lot of money on shocks and struts (though they were close to needing to be replaced). Drives so much better now.
That new car feeling!
Just about to tackle my 2012 Elantra ( 200,000 miles). While doing an oil change, I noticed the ball joint of the stabilizer had come right out. Oops.
Did tie rod ends before and this looks easier.
@@marcknightly9677 - I do wonder if my ball joints are bad. The loud clunking sound is gone but there is still a click sound on some bumps. It is better than it was before.
Great video, thanks, I have a 2021 Hyundai Venue, and that's exactly the noise I am getting, its only done 7.000 KS, have taken it to 3
Hyundai dealers, they say it's nothing to worry about . Not so, I am an 83-year-old mechanic . Its not right also its under 5-year warrany . I will try to inspect the link . Thanks again
Show the dealership mechanic this video. Good luck Dave!
Great video---really helps confirm what mechanic told me. How many labor hours should mechanic/repair charge me for replacing 2 (driver/passenger) sway bars on on car (Kia sorento twin to sante fe)? I will buy parts from your Amazon link. Also donating to your paypal account for this tip. Thanks!
Also--is not fixing this become a safety hazard of any kind?
Hi Matthew the sway bar link replacement should take no more than 1/2 hour labor to do both sides by a professional. Technically they could be replaced in about 20 minutes. Make sure if you go with Moog brand links that they are greased properly after installation. Thanks for your comment and kind generosity sir!!
@@matthewkerr4465 it could be a safety issue except for the fact that steering stability is lost. So if the vehicle would need to make a hard turn maneuver to avoid an accident the vehicle could get out of control. Good question!
Easiest job on the suv. Done em multiple times and never noticed a difference. Also an awd also wanders there notorious for it
Hi this may help I’m not sure, if you pulled the rod out of your grease gun it would stop the seeping of grease as the piston inside is under spring pressure, of course this makes it awkward for storing it so is why most people don’t bother. Just a thought. Danny
The grease was not manufactured properly. It should not be liquid. Thanks for the suggestion.
Awesome vid ! My gun bleeds too 🥴🤣 it’s so annoying. I think during summer it’s worse. So no I just leave it in oil pan. I thought it was just me with a defective grease gun.
It's the quality of today's grease. Thanks for the comment.
Terrific video! Appreciate the tips. I get nervous rocking the tire from 6/12 position without a jackstand for redundancy, so now I take the extra few minutes.
That's a smart move Neil!
Great video. 👍
Thanks Ron, appreciate the comment. -Glen
As an aside, there is a recall on certain 2016-2017MY Sorentos for the front ball joints. They will be replaced free of charge, according to the NHTSA document.
It's good that Hyundai is taking care of the safety issue.
soz m8 all wrong obv you would go for drop link would be fist thing to go
Thanks you i have the same problem me could save a lots of money only if i me did see yours video
Can you tell me what the torque should be on the moog stabilizer link on 2010 elantra GL, 4 door sedan. What happends if you over torque the link? Thanks
I usually tighten 3 or 4 ugga duggas.
I love this video, thanks for making it. I had this same problem now its gone.
Nice fix!
Thanks for sharing, going to this this on my wife’s 2010 SF.
Also bought the “grease-able” kind. Really wished the car manufacturers kept the zerk fittings for the suspension systems.
Let us know how it works out Carlos.
Looks like MOOG uses white lithium grease. Shouldn't mix greases BTW
The good news is they don't and if they did I don't really think it would matter.
Great video! Ya, my grease gun leaks as well. I think it's just the oil separating from the grease. Mine is so old, that the grease won't even pump anymore. All the oil leaks out and leaves a dried up lump in the gun. If you don't use the gun often enough, this will happen. I'll have to get a new tube before I start the end links. LOL! What a mess to change it!
Stop the grease gun bleed Steve!
LOL. I have the same set of China box ends and they are 20 years old. They augment my "quality" tools, whatever that means today.
A bargain price for the quality
Great video! Easy to follow! Clear instructions!
Excellent work thank you
Zerks, I prefer Grease Nipples😉. I had the same problem with my grease gun all the liquid came out during a heat wave and what was lift was dry grease. I put a new cartridge, I now leave the pressure off by pulling the (plunger) handle all the way out and locking it so the grease is not under pressure all the time while stored. Also wedge a bolt in there so it doesn't snap back accidentally . 👍
Years ago we never had these grease bleeding issues like today. Good tip Rich!
Tremendously helpful! Thank you for explaining in detail , certainly helped save a lot of time and frustration.
Glad to know the video helped you out! -Glen (Ozz)
This the one. THANKS!!
Really appreciate the detail in presentation, thank you. Great content.
Glad the video was helpful to you. Thanks for the comment and support! -Glen
Fantastic explanation of how it can fail and symptoms. Most people just show you how to replace.
I educate. Thanks for the comment Kevin.
Thank you for your very thorough and informative explanation.
@@rtodd279 you're welcome, thanks!
Thanks for the video. Was 99% sure I had the same problem. Only wanted to change the one. Ended up not the one I thought. Great tips and appreciate the video.
Glad the video helped you out Michael.
I just drove my 2012 sonata off a tall curb and I believe I smacked the control arm I don’t think it was the rim, how many hours of labor am I looking at by the book so I don’t get ripped off at Goodyear lol?
Probably no more than 1.25 hours
@@ozzstars_cars thanks
wow
Great job, bud. My Sonata has the same problem and now I know how to fix it.
Good news Spicey!
Hi great video, confirmed what I had thought, would the wear of the stab link be attributed to the replacement of the struts I had done about 2 months ago . Apparently no other issues were found then . Thanks again
I highly doubt strut replacement would have much effect on the stabilizer link and vice versa.
@Monkton Trimble is your car over 5 years old? 5/60k mile warranty
Awesome information & tutorial 👏 👌🏼 👍🏻
Thank you so much 👍
Sir can you please feature santa fe 2001 sway bar bushing replacement
If I got one in. Hardly ever see those around anymore.
Excellent demonstration!
I think I'm using the same grease as you😂
🤣👍
excellent video, thanks. I've been the only owner of my Ford Ranger. Does it have a rear sway bar?
Probably not but can't see it from my house. 🤪
Thks
My Hyundai dealer couldn’t figure it out three times at the dealership.
Leo
Wow! Times are challenging. Did you show the mechanic the video?
Lovely
thanks
Great video! Easy to follow, matter of fact. I recently upgraded to a third generation Santa Fe from a 2nd generation thanks to a huge tree limb that crushed my car while parked. I can hear the clunk when the dealership cannot, I will be replacing the sway bar link after assessment. Thanks!
You got it Jack! Hope it solves your issue.
Great job explaining the problem
Thanks Tim for your comment
hI I have installed moog swaay bar link in hond pilot with zirk fitting, an year ago, i livein rust belt, chicago, when i try to greese, i never see grease coming out on boot, will there be a chance that zerk fitting got rusted out .. I dont know the reason behind that
After 4 or 5 pumps grease should be seen. I believe the prob is with the gun or the zerk.
Your hand was on the outer threaded part of the bolt with such force that it left an impression.
Bingo! 💯
I have a creaking sound from the left front when I make a right turn and in cooler termperature weather. Could that also be a bad joint in the sway bar link?
Anything is possible but I'd check those balljoints as well.
@@ozzstars_cars I read a long thread on a forum where some people with Elantras have the same noise as me and their eventual discovery was that the offending part was the left side lower engine mount.