I liked BOTH the long and short versions. Also stating the book time is important and helpful. I don't know how mechanics to what they do but am grateful. Thanks!
Great video man! I love the long form videos. It’d be nice when you pick up the camera to show what you’re doing when you’re out of view where the tri pod is. You do great work and are very thorough. Keep it up. I’ll be doing this job on my wife’s 08 suburban soon. Keep creating man!
Thank you so much for this video. Had a issue getting that lower ball joint off. See what you did and a little more patience I got it out. Great video!! Marcus in Kissimmee Florida
By any chance would you know, I went to the auto parts store to buy the parts and they asked me if the parts were Cast Iron, Steel, or Aluminum does it make a difference?
Cast Iron and aluminum arms have a larger ball joint that fit the same knuckle. Steel knuckles with forged steel control arms had smaller ball joint holes that match the cast steel arms only.
Is the upper control arm cast iron or steel does it make a difference? Online it doesn’t state if the upper control arm is steel or cast just the lower ball joint!
Steel will be welded together. Cast Iron will be forged, no welds, a solid piece. If you get the wrong one it won't seat correctly into the knuckle, it'll be very noticeable it won't set all the way in. The one on my thumb nail of the video is forged/cast iron.
Great video! Very through! My 08 suburban needs the uppers and lowers done. My husband and I are do-it-yourselfers. We'll probably be tackling this job soon. Thanks for the helpful video.
Thank u for posting this. We have it 1/2 way done now and we're debating on removing the shocks. So we will try ur method. I prefer the long version. Better to see exactly what is being done.
Excellent - like the fast video but found the slower one - excellent real time instruction especially for shade tree DIY mechanics - also like the wisdom of not using after market for truck.
Great explanation! looking forward to more content! Im a DIYer but don't think I'd attempt this one. Good to know the amount of work that goes into each component. much appriciated!
Hi! Thanks for putting together this great video! I have to replace the driver side upper and lower joints on my 2016 GMC Yukon SLT. Looking for recs on where to purchase the best parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hey I`m gonna have to to this, this weekend on my 2010 Tahoe do you have recommendations for after maker control arm and ball joints? Thank by the way the video was awesome! I liked the time lapse then you slowed it down to show us how to do it. Good format for sure
Don't forget higher mileage and road salt. I get to cut out those camber bolts up top, and everything else needed to be heated and sprayed with penetrating oil. Really kills productivity. @diego3ful
Did I miss how you unbolted and removed the drive shaft from right side? Looks like you have that already removed at the point you start tackling caliber removal, which makes everything you did after that way easier.
Great vid. 2 questions. How much more work would it be, to replce the lower control arm also? So you would have new bushings. And #2...why not replace the wheel bearings, at the same time? Since you already have it apart. Thanks.
It's only 6 more bolts to remove the lower control arm, and the bushings are pre-pressed in. You could replace the wheel bearing if you wanted too. The reasons we don't, is one the parts aren't faulty or two the customers budget. It's a huge price difference between the ball joint and complete control arm. Thanks for watching.
None, I always replace the complete lower control arm, or just the ball joint, depending on the circumstances. Never just the bushings, do to it causes a lot of problems down the road.
@@showmemechanics Thanks you very much, i will be installing an oem one Monday (2007 Avalanche 2wd) and its the exact one you did in video was worried but not any more!
No, just take the nut off the axle and the knuckle will slide towards you and down. You might have to leave the nut on a little and hit the axle cause sometimes they get rusted in there, try not to damage the threads. When going back on, you have to get both the axle and lower ball joint in the knuckle holes almost at the same time to slide in.
@@showmemechanics I've changed out about 15 ball joints with one tool from Amazon...no bends, no breaks, no thread damage, no sweat. Idk, maybe I'm lucky
@Alex-sd6mc extremely lucky usually on these what he did with the air hammer still doesn't work had to cut the top part off then beat it out.. also gad to cut a pitman arm then open up Crack with air hammer then press out
Long form videos are the best and informative 👍🏼 keep up the good work man!
I like how real you are in the videos; constantly reminding yourself not to swear lol
Great work, btw.
Sped up and the slow in-depth were perfect. Thanks for giving a damn 💯
Thanks for watching
I liked BOTH the long and short versions. Also stating the book time is important and helpful. I don't know how mechanics to what they do but am grateful. Thanks!
I like the long versions. I haven't done this type of work before, so the step by step method works for me to understand everything better.
Great video man! I love the long form videos. It’d be nice when you pick up the camera to show what you’re doing when you’re out of view where the tri pod is. You do great work and are very thorough. Keep it up. I’ll be doing this job on my wife’s 08 suburban soon. Keep creating man!
Thank you so much for this video. Had a issue getting that lower ball joint off. See what you did and a little more patience I got it out. Great video!! Marcus in Kissimmee Florida
The way you did this video works perfect. Thanks for the upload saved me $1500.
No problem, thanks for watching.
By any chance would you know, I went to the auto parts store to buy the parts and they asked me if the parts were Cast Iron, Steel, or Aluminum does it make a difference?
Cast Iron and aluminum arms have a larger ball joint that fit the same knuckle. Steel knuckles with forged steel control arms had smaller ball joint holes that match the cast steel arms only.
Is the upper control arm cast iron or steel does it make a difference? Online it doesn’t state if the upper control arm is steel or cast just the lower ball joint!
Steel will be welded together. Cast Iron will be forged, no welds, a solid piece. If you get the wrong one it won't seat correctly into the knuckle, it'll be very noticeable it won't set all the way in. The one on my thumb nail of the video is forged/cast iron.
Great video! Very through! My 08 suburban needs the uppers and lowers done. My husband and I are do-it-yourselfers. We'll probably be tackling this job soon. Thanks for the helpful video.
Thank you for the great video explaining everything on how to replace upper and lower ball joints and upper and lower control arms
Thank u for posting this. We have it 1/2 way done now and we're debating on removing the shocks. So we will try ur method. I prefer the long version. Better to see exactly what is being done.
I really like how you explain Everything, thanks
I like the long videos helps me be more accurate I'm a female who likes to work on my own vehicle so there's no one to blame if it's not right.
great job. I like the long version. never had to replace my own ball joints before. I may try it now. your fast as hell.
I like the longer format. I can always speed up the video if it is slow! Thanks for the video
Excellent - like the fast video but found the slower one - excellent real time instruction especially for shade tree DIY mechanics - also like the wisdom of not using after market for truck.
Great explanation! looking forward to more content! Im a DIYer but don't think I'd attempt this one. Good to know the amount of work that goes into each component. much appriciated!
I like both but the long format gives the details and nuances.
Good job the short video sthrigt to the point will get more attention and also have the link to see the longer version
Nice work. Only thing i could say to help others . Is you didn’t mention that you took the axle out. Lol.
@@joemedvec2248 I didn't, it was a 2wd vehicle. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Hi! Thanks for putting together this great video! I have to replace the driver side upper and lower joints on my 2016 GMC Yukon SLT. Looking for recs on where to purchase the best parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
@@gueritovera If you can, go to your local Dealership.
I like the slow version better. Thanks
Really good video, it really helped me A LOT
Do you have to flair out the top edges of the new lower ball joint?
Your a life saver bro
You can use the ball joint press to remove the old ball joint also.
Hey I`m gonna have to to this, this weekend on my 2010 Tahoe do you have recommendations for after maker control arm and ball joints? Thank by the way the video was awesome! I liked the time lapse then you slowed it down to show us how to do it. Good format for sure
And people wonder why shop rates are expensive. This is like a 5 hour book time with proper tools.
Absolutely RIGHT!!!!!
That’s why it’s best to do it your self it’s cheaper
If u have the experience and tools, 2 hours at the most
Don't forget higher mileage and road salt. I get to cut out those camber bolts up top, and everything else needed to be heated and sprayed with penetrating oil. Really kills productivity. @diego3ful
Yea this was a walk in the park not always like that shit can be stuck af
awesome video very helpful
Did I miss how you unbolted and removed the drive shaft from right side? Looks like you have that already removed at the point you start tackling caliber removal, which makes everything you did after that way easier.
Good job on the long term video thanks
Great vid..the slow was awesome
Thanks
Love this video, very informative
Very helpful thank you!
Dude that video was helpful thank u
What are the necessary front end parts that must be replaced and the ones just leave alone
You only change the parts that are loose or the bushings are worn out on, other than that I'd leave them alone. Thanks for watching.
Great vid.
2 questions.
How much more work would it be, to replce the lower control arm also?
So you would have new bushings.
And #2...why not replace the wheel bearings, at the same time?
Since you already have it apart.
Thanks.
It's only 6 more bolts to remove the lower control arm, and the bushings are pre-pressed in. You could replace the wheel bearing if you wanted too. The reasons we don't, is one the parts aren't faulty or two the customers budget. It's a huge price difference between the ball joint and complete control arm. Thanks for watching.
Nice video, Thanks for the info
Great video. Could you have pressed out the lower with the same tool you pressed it in with?
Yes
@@showmemechanics Good to know cause I’ll beat the crap outta everything other than that ball joint with a hammer 😂.
forged steel or cast iron?
Official 👍 long version.
Great video, What lower control arm bushing would you recommend?
None, I always replace the complete lower control arm, or just the ball joint, depending on the circumstances. Never just the bushings, do to it causes a lot of problems down the road.
Honestly dude, the one side time lapsed, then the other side explained out is not a bad format 🤷
Thx
Living on the edge stealing your daughter's tripod...lol.
Yep, lol. Thanks for watching.
Does the new lower ball joint need to be secured somehow once in?
If you install a GM or ACdelco ball joint, no due to they are tapered and need pressing in. Aftermarket ones DO have a clip to retain them into place.
@@showmemechanics Thanks you very much, i will be installing an oem one Monday (2007 Avalanche 2wd) and its the exact one you did in video was worried but not any more!
Tri-pod for your point of view
What about greasing the ball joints , how often ?
Like twice a year, maybe, cause once it's greased it doesn't go anywhere unless the boot breaks.
@@showmemechanics thanks for the reply, guess I will have to get on that lol I replaced the upper control arm in 2021 but haven’t re greased since
Im doing this next week
I think im gonna be alright
Where did you buy the parts?
At my Chevrolet dealership. Not aftermarket.
24:24
How are you not bending or distorting the lower control arm by beating on it like that?
Just think of the force of the vehicle weight on it compared to you hitting it.
Well… u never said anything about the axel bolt… now im fooked
Sorry bout that, the vehicle I did was a 2wd and not a 4wd. The axle nut is a 36mm socket to take it off. Just one extra step. Hope you get it.
@@showmemechanics do i need to put it back together to get it off?
No, just take the nut off the axle and the knuckle will slide towards you and down. You might have to leave the nut on a little and hit the axle cause sometimes they get rusted in there, try not to damage the threads. When going back on, you have to get both the axle and lower ball joint in the knuckle holes almost at the same time to slide in.
@@showmemechanics when i try to take the axel nut off it spins
You can stick a pry bar between the studs to help hold it.
Don't go the speed up route
Long because people always skip important steps
Instead of beating it to all hell, why not just spend 50-100 bucks for a ball joint tool
It's easier to beat it out. The Ball joint tool will bend, unless you buy snap on.
@@showmemechanics I've changed out about 15 ball joints with one tool from Amazon...no bends, no breaks, no thread damage, no sweat. Idk, maybe I'm lucky
@Alex-sd6mc extremely lucky usually on these what he did with the air hammer still doesn't work had to cut the top part off then beat it out.. also gad to cut a pitman arm then open up Crack with air hammer then press out
Long