This kid is very good as a bow technician. He has all the gear @ his fingertips, and takes his job seriously. I would have just replaced the strings. He saved them. Great job.
I used to go to archery country when it was on 183 near burnet… just stopped in the newer location near 183 Anderson square yesterday because I just picked up bow shooting again about a month ago. It’s a great looking store and those guys know their stuff.
I been thinking about getting some form of a recurve or long bow. I got my eyes on the Hoyt and possibly bear archery Montana. Maybe in the spring I may dive into that. But I’m more interested in the modern take on traditional style bows, carbon limbs and aluminum risers, carbon arrows etc etc.
Just realized this, heavier arrows are better for your strings and cams, lighter arrows are more like dry fireing and heavier arrows absorb more from the strings and cams so it’s better for your bow
The RF is fantastic. Free information and none of it has steered me wrong. My bow used to be loud and decently accurate. Heavy arrows now make the bow sound like it should and the accuracy has improved. I am impressed. If you are on the fence go ahead and take a line of the fairy dust, you won't regret it.
@@jimk2762 I agree and I also use soft nock sets, mainly to avoid nock pinch, expecially on shorter ATA bows, however, if you only use a D loop, when you have to replace it, you can still be very precise, just nocking an arrow (or just a nock), untieing or cutting away just one of the two knots of the loop you want to replace, tieing in the same exact spot the first knot of the new D loop, cutting away the second knot of the old loop and tieing in the same exact spot the second knot of the new D loop.
I wish we had a local pro shop with technicians that really had a passion for their work and to continue learning. All I've found here in northwest Indiana and the South suburbs of Chitcago is either old guys that don't even use a tape measure, guys that already know everything and young guys that only learned enough to get a paycheck. So, TH-cam is where I'm at 🤷♂️
It's up to u to be ethical. It's perfectly acceptable to get 3 out of 12 carbon shafts that have a misbehaving tendency. But it's easier to rule out those shafts if u start with no vanes or feathers. These arrows r only for shooting spots.. Worst case scenario is that your groups @ 20 yards r 2" different than the remaining 9 or 10. U r better off if u consider a tight group by not pounding arrows together into a center dot cuz that is an archery arrow. A hunting arrow has to be true since it's only purpose in life is a passthrough with 1 shot. That when u end up with only 5 or 6 true arrows out of a dozen. Shoot an arrow into the target. Then shoot another 2" to the right. Another 2" to the left, another 2 arrows above & below your 1st arrow @ 2". That is a great hunting arrow group w/o damage. Change to a stout broadhead target & make your aiming point with broadheads 3" just for good measure. Remember measure twice, shoot once. Full measures only lead to successful hunting & time better spent not bloodtrailing.😄
Drive by this shop pretty regular, got a handful of arrows to test from there last year. Believe it was the bigger guy in the background when you were getting the bow leveled that helped me. From what I remember him telling me, he was not a fan of heavy arrow builds. He thought it was a waste of effort cause a stock lighter arrow will do just fine
I’ve been recently introduced to “bend indexing “ and I’m finding it to be just as consistent at nock tuning and it’s a much quicker process. It’s actually producing better groups because there’s more control of the spine, in my opinion. Let me know if you’d like to learn more.
@@nicetryb0z0 I didn’t realize I had responses till this morning. Go watch John Stallone’s video “most accurate arrows - first bend indexing arrows”. He explains it pretty well.
@@MAYHEMSCO I didn’t realize I had responses till this morning. Go watch John Stallone’s video “most accurate arrows - first bend indexing arrows”. He explains it pretty well.
I know I should have a bow stop on my bow, but it fell off after shooting maybe the first couple hundred shots. Since I was splitting arrows at 40 yards, I didn't bother replacing it. 10 years later and less shooting time on a regular basis,,I should get one.
I wish we had a local pro shop with technicians that really had a passion for their work and to continue learning. All I've found is either old guys that don't even use a tape measure, guys that already know everything and young guys that only learned enough to get a paycheck. So, TH-cam is where I'm at 🤷♂️
Troy I died when you said fly guys …. So true …. Wish I was near this bow shop …. Your honesty and willingness to throw yourself at the mercy of science and physics is truly uncommon. Especially with the army of anecdotal armchair all state QBs running around.
Point weight tuning aluminum arrows. When I am getting close, cut on contact will hit under 3 inches from where same weight field point hits at 20 yards. My experience, even well matched field points to arrow spine/length just won't fly exactly the same as same weight broadhead, unless you are shooting in a vacuum, and most people like breathing so...
Bump your rest up something like 1/32 of an inch. You're not shooting perfectly square. Square enough it probably doesn't show up on paper, but off just enough to cause the broadhead is catching some wind and driving it down a little.
I bare shaft tune and get good arrow flight with 200 grain field points. I turn my 200 grain broadheads all straight up and down and they will impact consistent, so I just sight in for them knowing my field points will group different. When FOC is off, I have had broadheads miss the entire target.
@@Kurtdog63 ya bud, you got something a little screwy going on. I don't even bother clocking my broadhead any more, if everything is tuned properly, it shouldn't matter. I'm obviously don't know what bow or rest you're shooting, but if it where me I would check cam timing, cam lean, center shot, and nock height then start over. If not, you do you.
It's funny to see someone that has killed so many animals in a bow shop and be totally blown away by simple tuning and set up techniques lol. Got to love the RF!
@@ArrowItArchery ahh good point I didn’t think about that. I think it would be like a shooting a handheld release though, basically impossible for it to slip out of your hand 🤷
Before pagers, We had electronic devices that only stored contacts and we had to put 25 cents in a pay phone to make a local call and long distance calls cost $1.25 for 3 minutes and 50 cents every minute after and before the electronic devices, we had paper and pens and actual hand written "address books." I know that might sound crazy to some people, but that's how we rolled.
I didn't realize Troy was shooting an Xpedition. I just got my center serving re-done on my Xpedition as well. Shooting a lot every day wears them down. That one did last me eight months though. I can't believe how horrible of a job that doorknob painter did though.
Do you find that limb stops can crack or damage the limbs more than using cable stops? And in using cable stops they can damage the string serving if pulling to hard right? Please answer both questions!!!!
I use those myself. Generally no, but it's not a guarantee. I'd say about...2/10 will need something like nock tuning, and when they do, they are usually less trouble than other arrows. My two cents.
No they do not need to be nock tuned. I have victory vforce that are spine aligned. Archery shop guy told me that you don’t have to mess with these arrows at all.
@@decaturridgebees8761 any time i build a batch of arrows, I start by suspending the shaft on each end. Hang a weight from the middle of the shaft and measure the deflection. Mark the shaft and note it. Rotate an eighth, and do the same, 7 more times. Whichever mark has the least deflection is twelve o'clock. That mark gets the knock fin, and knock perpendicular to it, so the knock fin is up. This always gives me a bare shaft paper hole that is close. Math gives me my length, and Easton charts give me spine. So small adjustment to my rest, knock point, or both dial me into a bullet hole. As soon as one arrow makes a bullet hole, they all do, or extremely close. I think spine indexing does the exact same thing as bare shaft knock tuning by shooting through paper, and adjusting the knock to get a bullet hole. The arrow bows a lot at launch. This bow must be at 12:00 on every arrow to get true and consistent flight on all arrows. That is what knock tuning does, and it is also what spine indexing does. Now that i have a season on my arrows, i am going to defletch them and start over, because i know my bow and arrows have changed over a thousand shots. I like Ranch Fairy's method of knock tune. Even after my spine index program, if i have troublesome arrows, I learned, from Ranch Fairy, that the slightest knock twist can dial right in. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it😂
@@vitodelorto1796 thanks for sharing. Do you know of any videos on this procedure? I built my first arrows this year so learning something new like this would be fun
@@decaturridgebees8761 there is a guy, i watched last year, with a very good one. I'll see if i can find it. I learned spine indexing from a book, a long time ago. That, along with bare shaft paper tuning, made me imstantly a much better archer. Hang on, I'll look for that vid.
th-cam.com/video/h3NXPsmF2vU/w-d-xo.html This vid will get you going. You dont need an expensive jig. A couple 2x6 blocks on each end, a level or straight edge to span next to your arrow to and measure from, with a cheap caliper, and a heavy fishing weight, does the same thing. You will be happy you took the time. Some may laugh, but I also use shrink tube veins. They cost you a little FOC, because they are heavy. To me it is worth the ease, simplicity, and uniformity. If you ruin a fletch, shooting through a worn out target, you can be shooting that arrow again, in ten minutes.
I love your videos!!! I am new to the bow world as I have always gone hunting with a rifle but archery has fascinated me! I’ve been really researching a starting point for a Bow and I just bought my son a Bear Limitless to start out on. I’ve been really liking several bows but the issue I have is I like several bows and I love the feel of more than one. Is there another suggestion you would recommend for an adult starting out in this sport for choosing a Bow? I’ve been looking at the Xpedition Bows but there is not a vendor near me that sells them and that is one brand I would love to check out.
RF, do you need to shoot through paper at various distances to determine if the arrow is oscillating? Or if you get a bullet hole (or close) does it mean it's flying straight?
Hehe. Turnabout is fair play! I love the fact that RF inspires people to try different stuff. And then we can all give each other crap, and when we mess up, say, “damn, you got me”. Really miss that in society today. Glad we have this.
Because I have a PHD in making lethal sticks.??? Tying a serving Vs How do people not know the basics of hand sharpening broadheads on a strop Or bare shaft nock tuning!! All matters what you’re trying to accomplish. Lethality Posing at TAC with a bino harness.
I noticed the bow man said he tunes his Bow to the Arrow and then shoots all his arrows to pick the ones that fly the same. Sounds like he might need a Ranch Fairy kit.
Has all those movable parts on that bow to move around and chooses to start with a .50 cent nock. Makes perfect sense! The left never came out unless you changed shooters. Just blows my mind a heavy arrow advocate has a weak arrow... that tech I know knew way better than you let you dumb down that tuning process.
I personally NEVER trust any shop that doesn't nock an arrow or a "draw arrow", a 32 inch aluminum heavy arrow for any draw length or draw stops tuning.
Admittedly, I was a little queasy watching him draw that arrowless bow with what looked like his trigger finger on the trigger. Yes, I saw that his middle finger was smashed against the back of the trigger but still I was a little nervous. Unlike that fella, I'm not smart enough to not dryfire it! That's why I now shoot stick bows with my fingers...lol...
Now Troy you nock tune your arrows but you don’t check to see how the nock fits your string not all nocks fit the serving correct Jordan made Ranch Fairy look like hum 🤥🥴🧚🏾♀️🐡
@@RanchFairy you're way too far left field on the subject. Screw everything else that matters and just focus on penetration to the tenfold and beyond forgetting about everything else thats just as important or more important.
@@chrisbahlmann4263 Well, that’s kinda unfair - but I’ll play. I’ve covered extensively Perfect arrow flight - over and over and over Super sharp broadheads - multiple videos Test lab on live animals applying what I “preach” I have no idea how maximum on impact arrow lethality is not the only goal. Thanks for the comments
@@RanchFairy 1. You won't have ANY penetration whatsoever if you don't hit your target and shooting heavier arrows does in fact create a large arc in your shot making it massively harder to hit your target. If its brushy and you're in the woods and there's branches sticking out everywhere well guess what if you have a massive arc in the flight of your arrow you're about 9,000 times more likely to hit a branch or brush or anything else for that matter when your arrow has a deviation of 10 ft in height from a straight line to the target. Not only that but if you move even the slightest at full draw (which is very very possible due to the fact that in alot of situations you are stuck at full draw for a minute or more and you begin to fatigue drasically) you will miss BIG. That is a huge issue. Not only that but this whole bone breaking crap is such a joke because what you're looking for in a shot is to NOT HIT BONE?!?!?!?!?!?! If you're hitting bone its most likely due to the fact that you chose to go with an absurdly heavy arrow and you sacrificed accuracy in the process and made the slightest mistake in yardage or you barely moved causing you to miss by ALOT OR.......because you went with a heavy arrow and the animal you were shooting at had time to eat, sleep, and breed before the goddamn arrow finally made it to the animal. Set your arrow weight at a lethal measurement and be done with it don't go so far overboard that you take everything away from accuracy and your arrow beating the animals reaction.
@@chrisbahlmann4263 This too shall be debunked Stay tuned - the math is coming!! High arrow lethality at impact is the only thing that matters - if you think you can control what you hit when an animal jumps the string. Well bud - there’s plenty of other channels that will stroke your ego. Thousands actually. I plan to hit bone and shoot for perfect lower 1/3 vital v hits - never intentionally try to hit bone. But hey, what if? You and I differ on a major thing Maximum arrow lethality at impact on all situations VS The industry line “just hit them of course it will penetrate”. I assure you that is not the case Thanks for the comments
This kid is very good as a bow technician. He has all the gear
@ his fingertips, and takes his job seriously. I would have just replaced the strings. He saved them. Great job.
My old bow shop when I lived in Leander, TX.. good guys.
Was amazed at what turning my nocks did for me with broadhead flight. Even taught my old man a new trick haha
I used to go to archery country when it was on 183 near burnet… just stopped in the newer location near 183 Anderson square yesterday because I just picked up bow shooting again about a month ago. It’s a great looking store and those guys know their stuff.
I'll be there next year. Mine is going to need an overhaul like this. And the longbow is running GREAT
I been thinking about getting some form of a recurve or long bow. I got my eyes on the Hoyt and possibly bear archery Montana. Maybe in the spring I may dive into that. But I’m more interested in the modern take on traditional style bows, carbon limbs and aluminum risers, carbon arrows etc etc.
Well I learn something new, man have I missed your channel, for some reason I was unsubscribed, so now I'm back and thank you for the great content.
That’s a great shop! Looks like a great Tech too!
Howdy brother been awhile super busy with work but back to shooting and getting ready for deer season. Always great to see your videos .
Just realized this, heavier arrows are better for your strings and cams, lighter arrows are more like dry fireing and heavier arrows absorb more from the strings and cams so it’s better for your bow
Absolutely
Love the bow work, thanks Troy.
These guys will tell you straight whats wrong if anything. Awsome !!
Jordan, tank, all the AC guys will get you taken care of. They know their stuff.
The RF is fantastic. Free information and none of it has steered me wrong. My bow used to be loud and decently accurate. Heavy arrows now make the bow sound like it should and the accuracy has improved. I am impressed. If you are on the fence go ahead and take a line of the fairy dust, you won't regret it.
It is fun to watch a master craftsman …he has served thousands of strings you can tell
11:48 nooo don't! Risk of dry fire!
“Someone knows about nock tuning” had no idea what a nock set is 😂
Fair. I just put D loop on and start bareshaft tuning - for a decade.
Hmm, guess it doesn’t matter?
Yup -
@@RanchFairy matters when you replace your d loop. Knock sets just help keep the same exact place you had your knocking point at.
@@jimk2762
I agree and I also use soft nock sets, mainly to avoid nock pinch, expecially on shorter ATA bows, however, if you only use a D loop, when you have to replace it, you can still be very precise, just nocking an arrow (or just a nock), untieing or cutting away just one of the two knots of the loop you want to replace, tieing in the same exact spot the first knot of the new D loop, cutting away the second knot of the old loop and tieing in the same exact spot the second knot of the new D loop.
Good video, I sure enjoy watching your stuff. Thanks for helping others out, man.
A quality bow technician is tough to find and worth the time and money.
I wish we had a local pro shop with technicians that really had a passion for their work and to continue learning. All I've found here in northwest Indiana and the South suburbs of Chitcago is either old guys that don't even use a tape measure, guys that already know everything and young guys that only learned enough to get a paycheck. So, TH-cam is where I'm at 🤷♂️
It's up to u to be ethical. It's perfectly acceptable to get 3 out of 12 carbon shafts that have a misbehaving tendency. But it's easier to rule out those shafts if u start with no vanes or feathers. These arrows r only for shooting spots.. Worst case scenario is that your groups @ 20 yards r 2" different than the remaining 9 or 10. U r better off if u consider a tight group by not pounding arrows together into a center dot cuz that is an archery arrow. A hunting arrow has to be true since it's only purpose in life is a passthrough with 1 shot. That when u end up with only 5 or 6 true arrows out of a dozen. Shoot an arrow into the target. Then shoot another 2" to the right. Another 2" to the left, another 2 arrows above & below your 1st arrow @ 2". That is a great hunting arrow group w/o damage. Change to a stout broadhead target & make your aiming point with broadheads 3" just for good measure. Remember measure twice, shoot once. Full measures only lead to successful hunting & time better spent not bloodtrailing.😄
@M Maple that's a couple hours away.
@M Maple yeah, I'm an hour southeast of Chicago Heights area. South West suburbs are two hours away. Thanks though
@M Maple Thanks. I'm only an hour and 20 minutes from Mokena
Didn't know about them.
Drive by this shop pretty regular, got a handful of arrows to test from there last year. Believe it was the bigger guy in the background when you were getting the bow leveled that helped me. From what I remember him telling me, he was not a fan of heavy arrow builds. He thought it was a waste of effort cause a stock lighter arrow will do just fine
I’ve been recently introduced to “bend indexing “ and I’m finding it to be just as consistent at nock tuning and it’s a much quicker process. It’s actually producing better groups because there’s more control of the spine, in my opinion. Let me know if you’d like to learn more.
Tell me
What’s it about
@@nicetryb0z0 I didn’t realize I had responses till this morning. Go watch John Stallone’s video “most accurate arrows - first bend indexing arrows”. He explains it pretty well.
@@MAYHEMSCO I didn’t realize I had responses till this morning. Go watch John Stallone’s video “most accurate arrows - first bend indexing arrows”. He explains it pretty well.
@@mat_in_texas
Well, you do know your bow
At your draw length
And draw weight
Bends the arrow most accurately representing you shooting it
I'm blessed to be friends with my Bow Wizard!!!!! Its an hour ride and worth every penny!
Great stuff, next year this time "well the Olde RF decided to dive down the bow rabbit hole,...got me a bow press" keep up the great work
Tinkerers gonna tinker
I know I should have a bow stop on my bow, but it fell off after shooting maybe the first couple hundred shots. Since I was splitting arrows at 40 yards, I didn't bother replacing it. 10 years later and less shooting time on a regular basis,,I should get one.
I wish we had a local pro shop with technicians that really had a passion for their work and to continue learning. All I've found is either old guys that don't even use a tape measure, guys that already know everything and young guys that only learned enough to get a paycheck. So, TH-cam is where I'm at 🤷♂️
Great episode. Very informative.
Rocketman, nice shirt!
Great video. Lots of info to process and work on.
Archery Country is a great shop. That's my place to practice shooting.
Troy I died when you said fly guys …. So true …. Wish I was near this bow shop …. Your honesty and willingness to throw yourself at the mercy of science and physics is truly uncommon. Especially with the army of anecdotal armchair all state QBs running around.
More crazy science coming!!
I don’t understand why you didn’t do center shot your rest and tuned it with the yokes. a small tear still go’s a long way.
Point weight tuning aluminum arrows. When I am getting close, cut on contact will hit under 3 inches from where same weight field point hits at 20 yards. My experience, even well matched field points to arrow spine/length just won't fly exactly the same as same weight broadhead, unless you are shooting in a vacuum, and most people like breathing so...
Bump your rest up something like 1/32 of an inch. You're not shooting perfectly square. Square enough it probably doesn't show up on paper, but off just enough to cause the broadhead is catching some wind and driving it down a little.
I shoot VPA single bevel and they hit just as a field point to 50 yards. Bow has to be tuned
I bare shaft tune and get good arrow flight with 200 grain field points. I turn my 200 grain broadheads all straight up and down and they will impact consistent, so I just sight in for them knowing my field points will group different. When FOC is off, I have had broadheads miss the entire target.
@@Kurtdog63 ya bud, you got something a little screwy going on. I don't even bother clocking my broadhead any more, if everything is tuned properly, it shouldn't matter. I'm obviously don't know what bow or rest you're shooting, but if it where me I would check cam timing, cam lean, center shot, and nock height then start over. If not, you do you.
I measure 29” but shoot 28 1/2” as well!
Imagine being the Archery 🏹 Shop manager and The Ranch Fairy 🧚♂️ strolls through the door?! 😳😳😳😳
Oh Dear! I’m stepping clear of this one!!🏹🐗🏹🐗🏹🐗
yeh RF, slowly picking up what ya putting down on this channel. cheers from au
Good stuff! The only thing I can hate on is the long extension cord on the window unit that can be a fire hazzard.
It's funny to see someone that has killed so many animals in a bow shop and be totally blown away by simple tuning and set up techniques lol. Got to love the RF!
Yup. If you ain’t learning - you’re lying
But tuning arrows sure beats the bow excuse!!!
My heart stopped at 11:52
Right! Iv done that but pulled the trigger lol
Thankfully it’s a safety release that can’t fire
Same here 🤣
@@MrPaintrain7 Except that he didn't have it buckled to his wrist and it could have slipped. 😲
@@ArrowItArchery ahh good point I didn’t think about that. I think it would be like a shooting a handheld release though, basically impossible for it to slip out of your hand 🤷
Super easy bow to tune with the yoke cables.
Extend sraw stops 1/4" is my guess..
Took my bow and shot through paper got slight tear right shot a second one and perfect show just how you shoot it and hold bow
Generally if u measure 29” a 28.5” actuall dl will fit best do to dloop and release.
This fella don't smile 😂
Could you get Jordan to smile at all? Haha I sense some good ocd there. Priceless
After any launches, flights, and target impacts, your spine index may change. Fibers fatigue.
Great video, informative
Bowtech deadlock cam system would solve your tuning problems!!
I have a Hoyt Spyder 30 named Black Widow, she has a black riser and camo limbs.
Please do more videos like this
I’m Diggin the lucky charms shirt 👍🏻
Before pagers, We had electronic devices that only stored contacts and we had to put 25 cents in a pay phone to make a local call and long distance calls cost $1.25 for 3 minutes and 50 cents every minute after and before the electronic devices, we had paper and pens and actual hand written "address books." I know that might sound crazy to some people, but that's how we rolled.
I thought you guys would have been too busy fighting the Indians
@@RockyMountainWest13 😂😂😂 No, those were the wicked men that murdered. We're just the "posterity" of their conquests
Great video!
I didn't realize Troy was shooting an Xpedition. I just got my center serving re-done on my Xpedition as well. Shooting a lot every day wears them down. That one did last me eight months though.
I can't believe how horrible of a job that doorknob painter did though.
Good video for sure
brilliant videovery instructive excellent
Do you find that limb stops can crack or damage the limbs more than using cable stops? And in using cable stops they can damage the string serving if pulling to hard right? Please answer both questions!!!!
Jordan seems like a smart dude. Has the personality of a piece of hard tack, but I guess that's not what matters in a bow tech! Lol
Great video. How many feet should I be away with a Crossbow paper tuning. Thanks
Jordan is cool and focused. But This Jordan would be laughing and bantering with the RF if it were me
Yeah there were no draw stops and only 40% let off on my first bow.
Back for more tooth fairy
The victory rip TKO arrows I use are already spined aligned (and fletched). Would these need to be nocked tuned as well, or is that a different thing?
I use those myself. Generally no, but it's not a guarantee. I'd say about...2/10 will need something like nock tuning, and when they do, they are usually less trouble than other arrows. My two cents.
@@cynicalclockworks9857
Thanks!
No they do not need to be nock tuned. I have victory vforce that are spine aligned. Archery shop guy told me that you don’t have to mess with these arrows at all.
I’ve got them too. I had to nock tune about 50% of them
I was told to put the spine mark up at the bow shop, yet i found they shoot way better with the spine down out of my bow.
I spy RocketMan wearing a #TheChosenTVSeries T-Shirt "Get Used to Different".
Saw that too!! 👍
I think your knock tune will find your spine index at 12:00. Two different ways to achieve the same thing.
Would you mind explaining this a bit more?
@@decaturridgebees8761 any time i build a batch of arrows, I start by suspending the shaft on each end. Hang a weight from the middle of the shaft and measure the deflection. Mark the shaft and note it. Rotate an eighth, and do the same, 7 more times. Whichever mark has the least deflection is twelve o'clock. That mark gets the knock fin, and knock perpendicular to it, so the knock fin is up. This always gives me a bare shaft paper hole that is close. Math gives me my length, and Easton charts give me spine. So small adjustment to my rest, knock point, or both dial me into a bullet hole. As soon as one arrow makes a bullet hole, they all do, or extremely close. I think spine indexing does the exact same thing as bare shaft knock tuning by shooting through paper, and adjusting the knock to get a bullet hole. The arrow bows a lot at launch. This bow must be at 12:00 on every arrow to get true and consistent flight on all arrows. That is what knock tuning does, and it is also what spine indexing does. Now that i have a season on my arrows, i am going to defletch them and start over, because i know my bow and arrows have changed over a thousand shots. I like Ranch Fairy's method of knock tune. Even after my spine index program, if i have troublesome arrows, I learned, from Ranch Fairy, that the slightest knock twist can dial right in. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it😂
@@vitodelorto1796 thanks for sharing. Do you know of any videos on this procedure? I built my first arrows this year so learning something new like this would be fun
@@decaturridgebees8761 there is a guy, i watched last year, with a very good one. I'll see if i can find it. I learned spine indexing from a book, a long time ago. That, along with bare shaft paper tuning, made me imstantly a much better archer. Hang on, I'll look for that vid.
th-cam.com/video/h3NXPsmF2vU/w-d-xo.html
This vid will get you going. You dont need an expensive jig. A couple 2x6 blocks on each end, a level or straight edge to span next to your arrow to and measure from, with a cheap caliper, and a heavy fishing weight, does the same thing. You will be happy you took the time. Some may laugh, but I also use shrink tube veins. They cost you a little FOC, because they are heavy. To me it is worth the ease, simplicity, and uniformity. If you ruin a fletch, shooting through a worn out target, you can be shooting that arrow again, in ten minutes.
I love your videos!!! I am new to the bow world as I have always gone hunting with a rifle but archery has fascinated me! I’ve been really researching a starting point for a Bow and I just bought my son a Bear Limitless to start out on. I’ve been really liking several bows but the issue I have is I like several bows and I love the feel of more than one. Is there another suggestion you would recommend for an adult starting out in this sport for choosing a Bow? I’ve been looking at the Xpedition Bows but there is not a vendor near me that sells them and that is one brand I would love to check out.
Elite Kure or Remedy. Done
Some of the longer ATA (31”+ PSE a stuff too)
RF, do you need to shoot through paper at various distances to determine if the arrow is oscillating? Or if you get a bullet hole (or close) does it mean it's flying straight?
If it's flying straight at 10-20yds you're good.
Archery country folks are typically good shit.
Theres no chance he hasnt been watching your channel lol
Hey there RF haven't been to TX since basic training but id love to be a test dummy on some of them there hogs.
Awesome content for this noob. Keep em coming
Which xpedition bow is that? They are awesome.
I’m pretty sure that’s an obsession turmoil, not xpedition
Wrong! Its an Xpedition Perfection..
That is an Xpedition Xcusion 6... He had videos on it a couple years back. th-cam.com/video/j4AKB-jt-_4/w-d-xo.html
@@keithdodson7536 ....and wrong again. No disrespect, only the facts
Hehe. Turnabout is fair play! I love the fact that RF inspires people to try different stuff. And then we can all give each other crap, and when we mess up, say, “damn, you got me”. Really miss that in society today. Glad we have this.
How do you not know the basics of bow maintenance or tuning?
Because I have a PHD in making lethal sticks.??? Tying a serving
Vs
How do people not know the basics of hand sharpening broadheads on a strop
Or bare shaft nock tuning!!
All matters what you’re trying to accomplish.
Lethality
Posing at TAC with a bino harness.
What's the point of nock tuning of you can't get a bullethole. The tech should've checked centershot n cam lean.
Arrows have a seam. They bend differently as you rotate the nock.
I'm looking for wrist release recommendations? Thanks
Scott Archery makes great ones if you want a wrist strap style. Just my preference
I think wt the money you have coming in from your arrow sales. You can get a new stabilizer. The duct tape just doesn't work.
Get a bow press they’re not that expensive and it’s fun to learn to work on your own bow.
Man will you please tell me how you aim lol I can't see out of my right eye and I'm a right handed shooter. I have to aim with my left eye
Ranch Fairy needs to go on JRE
Yes
He
Does
What is that thing he's using to do the serving?
Serving jig
@@thatdude8344 Thanks!
What serving tool brand is that? Anyone know?
Looks like a Beiter Profi.
What kind of bow is Pamela?
Xpedition Xcursion 6
I noticed the bow man said he tunes his Bow to the Arrow and then shoots all his arrows to pick the ones that fly the same. Sounds like
he might need a Ranch Fairy kit.
Has all those movable parts on that bow to move around and chooses to start with a .50 cent nock. Makes perfect sense! The left never came out unless you changed shooters. Just blows my mind a heavy arrow advocate has a weak arrow... that tech I know knew way better than you let you dumb down that tuning process.
But nock tuning does work. I should probaly clarify that.
Very informative. I'm in search of a new bow tech, but Austin is too far!!
I personally NEVER trust any shop that doesn't nock an arrow or a "draw arrow", a 32 inch aluminum heavy arrow for any draw length or draw stops tuning.
Admittedly, I was a little queasy watching him draw that arrowless bow with what looked like his trigger finger on the trigger. Yes, I saw that his middle finger was smashed against the back of the trigger but still I was a little nervous. Unlike that fella, I'm not smart enough to not dryfire it! That's why I now shoot stick bows with my fingers...lol...
no draw board? Alrighty then.
Why not just shoot lighter arrows and rage 100 grains?
It is an option
11:50; why? whyyyyyy? professional or not, don't do this!
Just throw some more weight up front......
Everything he did was just totally wrong. Let me tell you what I have learned in my grandmother's basement..............
Second
First
Now Troy you nock tune your arrows but you don’t check to see how the nock fits your string not all nocks fit the serving correct Jordan made Ranch Fairy look like hum 🤥🥴🧚🏾♀️🐡
This is your "heavy arrow" scientist yall are obsessed about and listening to.... doesn't even know the basics of a bow lol
Yep - but he knows a ton about breaking bones, perfect arrow flight and shooting through animals.
Pick one.
@@RanchFairy you're way too far left field on the subject. Screw everything else that matters and just focus on penetration to the tenfold and beyond forgetting about everything else thats just as important or more important.
@@chrisbahlmann4263
Well, that’s kinda unfair - but I’ll play.
I’ve covered extensively
Perfect arrow flight - over and over and over
Super sharp broadheads - multiple videos
Test lab on live animals applying what I “preach”
I have no idea how maximum on impact arrow lethality is not the only goal. Thanks for the comments
@@RanchFairy 1. You won't have ANY penetration whatsoever if you don't hit your target and shooting heavier arrows does in fact create a large arc in your shot making it massively harder to hit your target. If its brushy and you're in the woods and there's branches sticking out everywhere well guess what if you have a massive arc in the flight of your arrow you're about 9,000 times more likely to hit a branch or brush or anything else for that matter when your arrow has a deviation of 10 ft in height from a straight line to the target. Not only that but if you move even the slightest at full draw (which is very very possible due to the fact that in alot of situations you are stuck at full draw for a minute or more and you begin to fatigue drasically) you will miss BIG. That is a huge issue. Not only that but this whole bone breaking crap is such a joke because what you're looking for in a shot is to NOT HIT BONE?!?!?!?!?!?! If you're hitting bone its most likely due to the fact that you chose to go with an absurdly heavy arrow and you sacrificed accuracy in the process and made the slightest mistake in yardage or you barely moved causing you to miss by ALOT OR.......because you went with a heavy arrow and the animal you were shooting at had time to eat, sleep, and breed before the goddamn arrow finally made it to the animal. Set your arrow weight at a lethal measurement and be done with it don't go so far overboard that you take everything away from accuracy and your arrow beating the animals reaction.
@@chrisbahlmann4263
This too shall be debunked
Stay tuned - the math is coming!!
High arrow lethality at impact is the only thing that matters - if you think you can control what you hit when an animal jumps the string.
Well bud - there’s plenty of other channels that will stroke your ego.
Thousands actually.
I plan to hit bone and shoot for perfect lower 1/3 vital v hits - never intentionally try to hit bone. But hey, what if?
You and I differ on a major thing
Maximum arrow lethality at impact on all situations
VS
The industry line “just hit them of course it will penetrate”. I assure you that is not the case
Thanks for the comments
What’s a ‘Mathews’ bow?😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂