I work for Rush truck centers. We have a store in venture. I can sell you whatever parts you need for this unit and ship direct to you. If you have questions just ask we still have some techs who used to work on these units when they were new.
CDL driver here. With the truck being a single axle, air brake equipped, and 14k lbs. I would say the minimum license needed would be a CDL B with Air Brake endorsement. Definitely talk to the DMV or Highway Patrol and they should be able to guide you into what is needed so the legality isn't in question anymore lol. Plus wouldn't be a bad series of seeing Jeremiah and Jobe training for CDL class and getting their licenses.
Absolute ballsy to look at an old truck and communicate the enthusiasm to a crowd that was really not expecting this kind of wildcard piece. Also amazing to see that there's truckers and truck mechanics on here contributing their experience to the show!
CDL A driver 10+ years and I'm very impressed with how much you've learned about semi truck operations. The suspension, brakes, seat adjustment and even the transmission when switching hi-low gears are all air actuated. It's the life blood of the truck, without pressurized air you have a bigass paperweight. The truck may be under the 26k gross limit, but the air brakes alone, as others have said, will require at least a CDL B with air brakes endorsement. Also when it comes to tires, make sure you put virgin (brand new) tires on the steer axle. Drive tires you can get away with some cheap re-caps, but it's illegal to put re-caps on the steer axle for safety reasons. Steer tire blowouts are no joke and will guarantee a crash if you're caught by surprise and unprepared. Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the CDL exams!! 👌🏾
Retreads are allowed on the steer axle if they meet cali requirements and not on a bus or farm labor vehicle. Not saying it's a good idea but it is legal. However those steer tires appeared in pretty decent shape.
Air brakes alone do not require a CDL. It's the GVWR combined with air brakes that would require him to have a CDL with an air brake endorsement. If he got the truck derated to a 26,000 or lower GVWR, he wouldn't need a CDL. With the pickup bed on it, it may be classified as a straight truck (think dump truck or rollback tow truck), so at most he would just need a non-commercial class B license.
@@tylerherrman9569well the truck is currently 14k pounds, so he should be in the clear if thats the case right? Or would he have to take extra steps to ensure he is legal?
@@lilmancc35 The 14k pounds is the curb weight, not the GVWR. GVWR is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or the maximum amount that the truck is capable of weighing. DOT says that any vehicle that has a GVWR over 26,001 lbs. that doesn't have a special use permit (farm use, snow plows, etc.) is a commercial vehicle. He would have to either find a way to get a special use permit, possibly be able to register it as an RV, or get it derated to decrease the GVWR and make it legal.
I can't speak for California, but I know that many states (including my home state of Washington and neighboring Idaho) have CDL exemptions for collectors operating big rigs, even with air brakes and 26,000+ GVW rating, as long as it's not used commercially. Each state can vary, though. And it can be a good idea to print out the laws specifying these exemptions and keep them in your glove box, in case you're ever stopped by state patrol.
I love how this movement of car guys off of these big corporate platforms is kind of bringing back the grassroots, backyard building with buddies TH-cam days that we used to love not that long ago ❤
Hey boys, I just wanted to correct something real quick, the brake chamber has a spring brake, you can “cage” those and release the brakes. It has 2 chambers, one is to compress the spring when you press in the parking knob. The second one is the service brakes. It doesn’t brake with the spring brake, that’s just for parking, it brakes with the air tank pressure being applied by the service line of the brake chamber. The next part is called the “slack adjuster” that is like a ratchet wrench the connects the rod of the brake chamber to the s cam, some slack adjusters are manual and needed to be adjusted every day after a whole day of driving, my very first rig a 1987 peterbilt had them and I hated them, you could be having full braking power in the morning and after a day of local driving you DID NOT. The next part is the S cam, is just a cam but instead of lobes it has an S shaped looking end, it spreads the brakes shoes outwards towards the drum. To check if your brakes are good, you have to check drum thickness, shoe thickness and make sure the rod of the chamber doesn’t extend outwards more than 2-1/4 inch. Hope that was helpful. About the legality of driving it as a regular truck, you can register it as a “recreational vehicle” and it should be fine with a class C.
Came here for this. They left Donut because they were pressured to release videos quickly and got stuff wrong. Funny, it's still the same. And they're not reading constructive criticism comments.
@@bradames3755 to be fair, trucks are a whole different world and there’s not as much info out there in older equipment anymore. It’s fine to be wrong, just need to learn and correct
@B0RN2RACE100 sure, if any truck brakes worked like they said, which they dont; and if a quick info search didn't yield a clear explanation, which it does; and if it wasn't presented as a teaching moment, which it was; and if they weren't making videos for profit, which they are; and it was a fun little channel with low viewer numbers, but they have a huge following; etc. I'll give passes for honest mistakes, not for laziness.
@@bradames3755 you’re right, it was very lazy of them. At the very minimum they should have had a trucker teaching them the ins and out of trucks. Even though they have a huge following, this channel is new, I’m sure they’re facing a lot of issues with starting a new business.
Okay, so those engines are Detroit Diesel engines, and there is something you need to know 1. Carbon builds up in the ports. This happens to all 3 series: 53, 71, and 92. I asked a Navy Mechanic, who works on 4-53s found on the tugs on Aircraft Carriers, how hard it is to clean out, and he described it as a "nightmare". To ensure this doesn't happen, you need to run these things pretty high in RPMs. 2. These things HATE low RPMs. You cannot lug these like 4 strokers can be. They will blow up if you do that. 3. These have mechanical fuel systems, and there have been times where the fuel rail gets stuck at wide open throttle, creating a diesel runaway. If this happens, you need to put something over the intake to stop it's airflow. No oxygen, no ignition. Most people will use a piece of plywood. There has only been one time where they didn't have a mechanical fuel system, and that was on the Crusty Fat Cab, a racing truck with a common-rail converted 8V92T. 4. These leak oil 99.9% of the time. Remember the common detroit mechanic saying: If there's no oil under them, there isn't any in them.
Heard from a couple places of people stuffing a phone book on the intake of a big diesel during a runaway, and the thing would pull the phone book through the intake and still not stop the engine. Figured it was my dad spouting bullshit, but I've encountered the stories on a couple forums, and nobody on those forums seemed to think that was unrealistic.
10:00 There is a cable on the drain valve for a reason.. You just pull the cable and it will drain the tanks out. Much easier than tapping with golf club. Just pull the cable diagonally from the release valve and it will be fine, the fitting inside is multi directional and will retract back in closed position. 14:45 That pop noise and rapid ticking noise you keep hearing would be your air governor kick out once the tanks are full. After using brakes etc drains the tanks. So air governor will kick in to charging really quick to fill tanks up then POP. 15:55 floating gears is natural to me at this point, been using 13 speeds and 18 speeds and would prefer those over a 10 speed or 9 speed. Give you a better idea on how to float and not be soo destructive to your gearbox... Each gear on a 13 speed has a 400rpm difference between them. When you split the gears with the high range gears (side switch you flip with your thumb) it is only 200rpm difference You do not have to be that hard on your gearbox, I'm usually very gentle with them and never grind the gears. because (VERY EXPENSIVE FIX) With a little bit of math you can also skip gears to get up to speed quicker, (your case being as small and only 6 wheels instead of 10) You can easily start in 3rd, skip to 5 high (800 rpm difference)
Never even got close to one of those big guys, but I'm wondering what are the advantages of floating the gears instead of using the clutch. Could you give some insight?
@RafaelSoaresP advantages are less wear on clutch. And the clutch does not operate the same as a car or pickup you have to double clutch. If you push clutch all the way in to goto next gear it won't happen. Double clutching just wears the throw out bearing out and you will constantly be needing to get a clutch adjustment for the clutch brake.
@RafaelSoaresP these transmissions are unsychronized, pushing the clutch won't make shifting possible, it's all about input and output speed matching. Double-clutching kinda snaps everything together to make the timing similar enough to allow the shift collar to spline into place. Floating is the easiest on equipment. Kinda have to forget what you know about driving manual and learn a whole new thing
@@RafaelSoaresPyou'll be pumping your leg constantly. Each gear only has a very small amount of RPM and speed increase. Most of the time you'd barely ever start off in 1st and most of the time you'd be skipping gears depending on your weight. Imagine driving a manual car that is 6 speed and the amount of times you push the clutch in.. now imagine you have double or more gears. Also, those gearboxes don't have synchro's, so it would be clutch in 1st gear > clutch out > clutch in to neutral> clutch out > clutch in to 2nd > clutch out.. these old gearboxes most of the time would need you to "double clutch" (which is the process I just listed out) You can 'float gears' in a car easily as well by rev matching, as long as your speed and rpm are up to the next gear you can gently shift to the next without the clutch. Gearing down will need you to blip the throttle to bring the revs up to match the lower gear. Man, do I miss driving manual 😔
@XXB4XX I will congest we call first gear "granny low" Because 1st gear would be a little too much (9, 13, and 18 speeds just say Lo). In some scenarios and steep hills. Sometimes I throw it in granny low then skip over to 2nd for torque and getting up to speed better. Granny low I WING the RPMs out to 2100 then float over to 2nd nice and smooth RPM's land at 1300 with enough rpm and torque to pull out with 120,000 pounds for next gear. (Sometimes I throw in into 4th next) because they all low gears.
These guys are/were Donut, along with James and Nolan. We'll probably see Nolan dip soon too, unless he's enjoying being the top dawg presenter at Donut.
Hey Brother, I own a Trucking business in TX. Save some money and change your wheels out to 22.5 instead of 24.5. For what you are hauling its over kill. The rims can be found used easily and should be about 150 each and the tires will be less expensive as well.
As someone with over a decade of diesel shop experience, I *EMPLORE YOU* switch to 22.5 wheels and tires! Commonly referred to as “low pro 22.5”. They’re gonna be cheaper and easier to come by. Wheels can get pricey but A) you don’t NEED aluminum wheels, and B) you can recoup some of the money by selling your current aluminum wheels. You can find used tires for around $200. New Chinese tires (Ironman, DoubleCoin, etc) for like $350. Yokohama and Hankook seem to be most common “decent” tire in the industry.
I'm betting that truck has 24.5 wheels to help with top speed. I've had several trucks from that era and since there was a 55mph speed limit then, most of the trucks would only run about 62mph on the factory 10.00x20's. I switched all of mine to tall 24.5 to get them up around 72 mph.
A set of recap tires for the rear. The casings look good, so they'll get some money back there to soften the blow. Those don't actually look like 11R24.5 though, did he read the tire or just measure the wheel? Hard to tell scale from the video, but 24.5 stand TALL. They can half cheat by just running aluminum outers with steel inners.
@@Landspecialistsllc For the cost difference and availability of a 24.5 vs a 22.5, they may be able to just re-gear the rear end. Which would be worthwhile anyways going real tall on the gears to get some MPGs, seeing as they'll likely never come close to stressing the capacity of that drivetrain.
@@coltonmcrae5873yes, they’re a LP24.5 (~42” tall). I’m suggesting switching to LP22.5 for availability. You could run steel inner aluminum outer. I just figured why spend the money? For now.
@@themikeyfriscowhere I’m from 11R 24.5’s aren’t hard to get at all, and they’re priced within 20% of an 11r22.5 and 10% of a low-pro 22.5 which are usually higher than an 11r, I’m guessing because not many run them around here. Almost all big tandem and triaxle dump trucks and other voc trucks run them for extra weight capacity, ground clearance and of course they’ll give a slightly higher top speed. On a hobby truck like this they’ll probably loose tires to dry rot before they ever wear a set out so it’s really more about the look you want vs cost and functionality…..with the exception of top speed which is always a consideration.
1. I live in CA and was a diesel mechanic on commercial trucks before switching over to commercial driving in the past year. I'm speaking from my experience as someone who recently acquired their CDL about 3 years ago in CA and as someone who has spent time working on these trucks for a living. I recommend you guys get a full DOT inspection on your truck because there are many nuances with commercial vehicles and specifications your truck has to meet or it can put you in legal trouble if you are stopped by the DOT. 2. At the minimum you need a class B CDL with an air brake endorsement along with no manual transmission restriction. The reason for the CDL is because the GVWR of your truck is at 49,000lb and even if it has been modified, the factory manufacturing stamp is what the truck is still rated for in the eyes of the law. When I took my CDL test at the DMV I also had to specify and take my test in a manual transmission truck, if not your CDL will have a restriction where you can only drive automatic transmission trucks. 3. Your standard class C license allows you to drive a truck that has a GVWR of under 26,000 lbs regardless if it has air brakes or not. An example of this would be a box truck you can rent from companies like Penske, most of those trucks factory door stamp stickers will state the GVWR is 25,999 so it does not require a CDL.
I understand requiring a special license for vehicles over a certain size but that's crazy that the government will only let you drive a certain type of transmission if you can't show up with a manual transmission truck.
Can you derate a vehicle in CA? Couldn't they potentially derate the truck down to 25999, its possible in other states, don't have a clue about CA, so genuine question you might know the answer to.
Semi driver here, this is the most excited Ive been in a while. Been praying donut would do something like this, so I speak for all us road dogs when I say yall are the best
Love big truck content on a car/bike channel! You're half right on the rear brakes, the front half of the chamber on the rear axle stays filled with air to release park brake, the second hose on the back of it pressurizes the chamber to push the rod out when using the foot brake. To engage park brakes, the front section is evacuated and a giant spring holds the rod out, forcing the shoes into the drum. The chambers on the front axle have a single hose that only pressurizes to actuate the foot brake. It's confusing and I'm still learning every day. But great content guys! Love the vintage nascar shirts
CDL driver here from SoCal I believe the air brakes are going to get you legally because you have to take a test for those at the DMV. It’s one of the many extra tests we have to take when renewing our license. You may only need to get a class B because it’s just the tractor so it’s more like a box truck. The not for hire personnel tow vehicle does change things though so you might just have to pay a large registration fee due to weight. Fingers crossed for you guys. Definitely get a hold of someone at the DMV, there are commercial only ones in Carson and Fontana that only deal with rigs. Probably your best place to start. Trust me you want nothing to do with DOT Bears (those are the ones in the pickups with camper shells on the back) and scales avoid it at all cost. I’m looking forward to where this project goes though because it’s an awesome idea.
In California, can you go to a Uhaul and rent a 26 foot truck as a normal licensed driver? In the Midwest, we can. They have airbrakes, and they are about the same weight when empty. But it's Cali, so anything goes. I fully expect that if this truck came near a DMV in your state, they might seize it for the crusher.
The time Jeremiah puts into research so that he can break down every fundamental component of every part of every vehicle and then speak about it fluently is amazing. The guy never misses a beat. Without a doubt, the smartest person who was a part of donut media
HET technician here. So the brake chamber has a massive spring in it that applies the brakes when there's no pressure. We call it the death spring because it will kill you if you open that brake chamber without caging the spring. When the system has pressure it compresses the spring to release the brake. But when you are driving and press the brake pedal, you still use pressure in the service side of the brake pot to apply the brakes. That spring doesn't move in and out while driving. It's always compressed while driving.
Came down here to say this, good explanation. I will say though it’s hard to understand how the 2 work together when you’re first learning about brake chambers
A tip you may not appreciate now but will in the future. Always carry an extra longest and shortest hydraulic line in sizes you need. You will be covered in any situation if you bust one. Commercial Fisherman here and we keep spares of everything on board because its kinda hard to get parts 50+ miles offshore.
Almost nailed the Air brake explanation Jerry, you basically covered how the parking brake side of the chamber works. Air pressure = release No pressure = spring brake applied But the "service" side of the chamber uses air pressure to force the push rod with much more force than the parking brake springs can apply. Still good to know we have that fail safe though the spring brakes will come on if you lose air but it won't likely stop a loaded truck very quickly
@snowe.. in the event of loss of air pressure or the ability to make more pressure the brakes can generally be applied a couple of times as it only pressurizes the chamber and doesn't continue to use air unless you press harder on the pedal or are on and off it again. And they don't start applying until you're down around 60psi so unless the failure is between the valve and the chamber then you can still stop without it locking up until below the minimum release pressure. Generally speaking if you see you are loosing air pressure and all warning functions are operational you have enough air pressure left to get to the side of the road before they lock
The brakes in the rear are combination brake chamber meaning that the parking brake and the service brake is housed in the same unit separated by a manifold. The end without the pushrod is your parking brake and the end with you pushrod is the service brake. Parking brakes are applied when air is released from them (via the PPV on the dash) then when you push the PPV (push pull valve) air is then pressurizing the parking brake diaphragm in the chamber. DO NOT TAKE THAT CHAMBER APART!!!! The air is compressing a very large spring in the parking brake chamber and it will hurt you. Service brakes are operated by air pressure supplied by the brake petal. Other known as the Treadle Valve. No air pressure in the service chamber means that the vehicle has the ability to roll. The brake pedal will meter air pressure into the service chamber allowing you to have controllable brake applications. I am a Heavy Truck and Diesel instructor at a high school career tech center near where Jobe is from in Ohio. Let me know if you need any help.
Dude, this is why car TH-cam is great. Because when people have a project, if the videos don't answer it, the comments do,. Make Car TH-cam Great Again
@@Drcudartotally agree! I love to help educate people about the ins and outs of the heavy duty systems used in these vehicles. The industry is better when people have correct information to make proper repairs.
I'll also add that this truck is old enough it might have manual slack adjusters, meaning the brakes don't automatically compensate as the shoes wear. Jer should really get under and check that because you don't notice the brakes are out of adjustment until you really need to stop, or the parking brake doesn't hold on a hill.
Y'know what, the dynamic between Jobe and Jeremiah are giving me huge old school Top Gear vibes. Dropping off the truck uninvited into the backyard, the classic "oh it's a shame your truck has problems, anyways I'm off" Loving the videos
The part of the brakes that was skipped for anyone who cares is, the pushrod pushes the slack adjuster, which is splined over an S-cam. The S-cam rotates and pushes the against the rollers, which the brake shoes are riding on, and the action of the S-cam pushing on the rollers spreads the brake shoes apart, making contact inside the brake drum. Being as old as it is, you'll need to determine whether or not they're automatic slack adjusters (ASA) or manual, though I suspect they've been upgraded to ASAs over the years. This will determine whether or not you'll need to adjust them manually to maintain properly functioning brakes or if they will adjust themselves. It won't matter if you're using the vehicle privately or commercially - your brakes must be in adjustment. That truck is around 14,000lbs, so you obviously know to check for air leaks, especially in the diaphragms. Brake pressure test will be required for the service brakes to ensure there are no holes in any of the diaphragms (you'll also hear a hollow air leak sound if the maxi is leaking). The good news is, I see there are no dust shields on the drive wheels, so you can technically keep wheel chocks in the truck, and chock the wheels before releasing the spring brakes (yellow valve/disabling the spring brakes and look over/behind the rear wheels with a flashlight to check the brakes. Only a gap the thickness of a sheet of paper should be visible between the brake liners and drums. That will cut down the amount of time it takes to check the brake adjustment in the rear. The fronts are almost certainly shielded, but if you can properly see where the liner contacts the drum through the inspection holes, you can save yourself a lot of time. Maintaining that tiny gap will help ensure you can emergency-stop. A gap that is clearly visible without checking means the braking will be weak and you may not be able to stop if someone pulls out in front of you, for example. Stupid people has happened to me plenty of times. Love that you bought this. These Detroit Diesels do have a blower, but it's not a supercharger. That is to say, its function is not to compress air. It just blows positive air pressure slightly more than ambient pressure through the intake ports, as 2-stroke diesels need artificial aspiration to start. Once its running, all the forced induction is done by the turbocharger. :)
When Jerry said "i guess it is 9,000 lbs" i said, there is NO way in hell that truck is that light, that's at least 14,000 lbs, i was right on the money! 🤣🤣
My grandfather used to drive that same rig, in the exact same color scheme, here in Canada, he used to drive Oil/Diesel/Gas, cross border all the time. It wouldn't surprise me if your truck came from somewhere up north, and migrated it's way to you, as it was modified. If it is the same rig (which I doubt), it makes me happy to see it still running and still doing work, even after all this time. Brings back fond memories, and hope you guys have fun, keep up the good work, you guys are doing awesome!!
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 SAFETY WARNING 🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 ALWAYS USE A CAB PROP WHEN THE CAB IS TILTED. Even if it's just a 2x4 stuck between the frame and the cab. I drove those things for 30 years and my first truck was a 77 Kenworth K100, so I was warned and I'm passing it on. Plus, I've seen 💩. Those cables on the air tanks are made for a hand to grab and pull to let the air out. It's always a good idea to drain the tanks DAILY because in colder climates the water in the air lines will freeze and the brakes won't release. Jerry will get used to driving without using the clutch pedal. I don't think I used one for the last 28 years of my driving career. I hope the diesel mechanic will school you on the "leakiness" of Detroits. It's a common trucker joke that the driver pulls in to the fueling stop and says, "top off the fuel, and fill up the oil." It's the nature of those old two strokes. Get a large cardboard to place under the truck as the dry seals soften up or Jobe's yard will be a Superfund site.
@@godalmighty8018 I do believe that your Mercedes, Volvos, MANs etc (Euro- specific manufacturers) have two prop rods installed when the trucks are new. I think Kenworth/Peterbilt (the PACCAR twins) only had one from the factory and after a few years of tilting, they just break and people yank off the safety gear. I was also a transportation manager at one point, and I would have yelled like crazy at my people who didn't use something to prop that cab up.
As a diesel mechanic that grew up loving cars and watching donut and now getting to see my favorite hosts do there own thing in my neck of the woods is sooo cool!!! love you guys keep doing what your doing! those DD are something else!
I like how quitting Donut has seemed to open doors on Jer's humoristic behaviors 😂 Also really think y'all made a great choice by starting your own thing.
I love that this has more views than the most recent Donut video, just as proof that y'all are definitely on the right path. I love even more that the Donut video isn't far behind, because those guys still kick ass.
Hello from Canada. Thought you should know that your brake pots on the drive axel have two chambers. One chamber (the end opposite the rod) is the emergency brake chamber applying spring pressure to apply brakes when there is no air. When you push in the yellow button in the dash (tractor parking brake) as well as the blue button (brake release) air is sent into the emergency brake chamber to release spring pressure. When you step on the brake pedal air is sent to the service chamber (the end near the rod) to apply brakes with air pressure. There is a foot valve on the fire wall that allows for control of the amount of air supplied to the service chamber. This valve is operated by the brake pedal, if you push harder more pressure is sent and the brakes apply harder. The front brake pots have just one chamber for service. Another detail to note is that your truck is old enough to have manual slack adjusters on the brake cams. Make sure your brakes are set up properly.
I was wondering that when they were looking at the engine. The internet safety no nothing idiot in me was like "that looks sketch, but what do I know".
Worked for the CA DMV at a CDL office for 5 years. If you were to get stopped by law enforcement, they would be looking at the GVWR listed on the Federal Safety label located on the door frame. Like Jerry said about getting a weight certificate to determine fees is mostly correct, but usually only required for pickups that are under 10,000 lbs empty weight. Most large commercial vehicles need to have a declaration of gross vehicle weight filled out during the initial registration, and those ones get the door stickers you see on most big rigs on the road. You could drive their truck with a Commercial B license as long as any trailer towed also has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs or less. If your trailer is over 10,000 lbs, a Commercial A is needed. Definitely one of the most confusing Driver License subjects. I don't miss it. Lol
I have a CDL from another state, so the Cali rules might be a bit different from IL. Since that truck has air brakes you will need to get at least a class B CDL license. The tests are a bit easier for the class B since you can take the road test in a straight truck and the knowledge part is pared down a bit too. My first license was a class B to drive a snowplow and upgraded later. As for the road legality of your truck, you might want to visit the DMV and talk to one of the supervisors and tell them what you are trying to accomplish and what the best way to be legal is. I'm guessing that a private registration and "private vehicle, not for hire" signage might be in your future. In my experience if you approach the DMV people looking to be collaborative and not adversarial, they can be quite helpful. I would suggest finding a CDL driving school that would be willing to let you do some filming and make an episode or two on getting your class A CDL. It might really be helpful for people who might be considering getting their license and it could take some apprehension out of the decision. Great content and I enjoy seeing the enthusiasm your having doing something you really want to do.
I may be completely wrong but I think you do not need a CDL to drive a private vehicle. The truck is Not For Hire so it’s essentially an oversized pickup truck. You don’t need endorsements or licenses to drive a motorhome that’s over 26,001/with air brakes.
@@KJL-123 Problem is California cares heavily about how it left the factory. It didn't leave the factory with a pickup bed, and has a gcwr that is in excess of 26k. Not to mention, while one would think he would privately register the vehicle, it will be used in a "company" capacity, and it's not up to par with california's bus and truck laws on commercial vehicles. Pretty much any other state they would be fine in.
I feel like a child watching these videos. They really brought back the magic. This channel has honestly inspired me to start playing guitar for TH-cam again.
I would recommend checking with fire departments or other government agencies that run big 2.5 ton or 5 ton rigs. They're mandated to replace tires after so many years no matter the condition or usage, so they'll generally let them go for cheap.
I think with this being a "commercial truck" they'll have to follow DOT rules and regs. Not sure what it is in cali but I know tires have to be replaced after a certain time. NCDOT carry scales out here and can do roadside inspections on your truck
@seanfarley1758 yup, if the sidewalls are 7 years old it's getting tossed in NC. That said, if it's not being used for commercial use (no CDL) I have to wonder if they're checking? It's not like there's any logs
@@cgunugc In Cali anything has to stop at the scales that isn’t a regular pick up. Even pick ups with altered beds like work trucks are supposed to stop at scales
Putting milk before the cereal was a genius move. Just at all the engagement it created! Dude's playing 3D Space Cadet Pinball while we're still figuring out how to play Minesweeper.
16:31 @ ZacJob - in a 13 speed, going from 4th to 5th gear means your going from the low side in 4th gear to the high side in 5th. So using that specific example, it is difficult to float that specific gear change because you are dealing with two separate gear ranges. Most of the time it is good to double clutch before going from low range to high or vise versa just to ensure things go in smooth and that nothing breaks. Now, say if you are going from 5th Lo to 5th Hi, that’s easy. All you do is preselect (move the thumb selector forward) and when you are ready to shift, let up off the accelerator and it will go into gear. That’s mainly with the newer Eaton-Fuller transmissions. Same thing if you are down shifting, however now you have to raise the RPMS, so you preselect 5th Hi to 5th Lo, then blip the throttle, and it will go downshift. It’s easier to explain floating gears going up than going down. Like you said Jobey, just let it fall into gear when you’re up-shifting (1-2-3-4 selector up 5-6-7-8). If you are down shifting, you need to raise the RPMS before you down shift(8⛽️7⛽️6⛽️5 selector down 4 or whatever gear you are going to stop in) You really could start in 4th gear, but because of the age of that truck, i would baby the transmission. Yes, because the motor is a 2 stroke, you gotta have the motor screaming, but not necessarily true for the transmission. Baby that thing, don’t grind til’ you find it haha…. That’s just worst case scenario
If I could afford it, I’d own one! The versatility, towing capacity, and the prestige of owning and operating a big rig is such a different experience than that of most other vehicles. I applaud you Jerry. I am excited to see how far you take this build!
Yes. Drive it like you're mad at it. Up shift when the governor backs off. It should go easily with light pressure. Downshifting is something you have to learn after a while. Match the revs by ear and feedback thru the gearshift. Shifting a 13 speed is usually 1-5, then pull the range knob (preselect) then you go back to the hole for #2 for 6th and then flip the lever on the knob for 7th. Preselect on the lever to shift to 8th where 3rd was). Rinse and repeat for the rest. And you're half right about the brakes... Air pressure is needed to overcome the spring on the parking brake and also used to apply pressure for the foot brakes. MOST IMPORTANT RULE: Trucks of that era were designed to kill their drivers if they became complacent! I'm sure your local DMV is going to have kittens lol
I was trying to explain thatbgear floating through text. How you can feel the vibration when just starting to push the shifter into desired gear. Fast vibration means engine is to high rpm for said gear. Slow vibration means engine rpm is to low. Tell tale signs if your missed it and need to give it some throttle. Or if u just need to wait and let it idle down a tad more
Jobe right on the money with floating gears. If you start to slowly pull the shifter into the gear you want you’ll start to feel a vibration any harder and it’ll grind but that vibration tells you EVERYTHING. A slow vibrations means you need to throttle up to catch said gear. And fast vibration means you need to idle down a bit more. In other words. Hit 2k rpm’s says 4th pull shifter out and slight push for 5th you’ll feel fast vibrations that are slowing down and when it’s almost matched it’ll push right into gear. It allows you to downshift by pressing the throttle with your right foot and still have your left foot on the brakes. It’s not easy to master. But it’s a TON of fun what’s you get it Also that 13 speed is a great tranny. 4 low range gears.5 high range. And you can split the high range. Or as you said a L and H for each high range gear. Only difference be that and an 18 speed. If you would be able to split the low range gears also. But totally unnecessary in a small truck without a trailer behind it loaded
I love that you have taken the time to explain how and why everything works again! I think you have the best educational/ comical videos on the internet! Keep teaching, keep showing us how things work and keep being funny Jeremiah. I missed the covid era of B2B and think the way you structure your videos is extremely entertaining but teaches the masses without anyone feeling taught... if that makes sense. Thank you! I'll share and like your stuff every time!
You should definitely look into the license issue more. The 26,000 lb limit doesn't refer to the actual weight of the truck, it's what the truck is rated for. Almost every semi tractor is under 26k, but usually rated for much more. Also, and I may be wrong, but I think the vehicles original factory rating when titled is what is used, states usually will not accept GVWR changes. There may be exemptions I'm unaware of however, being a Not For Hire truck. Good luck! Love the series
@@Wren02 you do not need an airbrake endorsement. You can rent a box truck from Penske with airbrakes with a Class C. The endorsement is only needed when being over 26,000 GVWR. The issue with this vehicle is they need to get it certified to have a GVWR of less than 26,000 since its not in its original form. Currently its rated at 49,000 technically. Though its modified. But they are 100% riding dirty right now because the MFD sticker on this big son of a gun is tagged as a Class 8.
This is what I said. Idk about Cali but in mass. I personally own 5-6 different trucks. Some tractors most 10, or tri axle dump. But as long as we remove the 5th wheel from the tractor. Then anyone can drive it on a CDL B. He’s under the weight limit. But simply having air brakes is going to be the issue. Getting a CDL B. Or air brake endorsement for his current license isn’t hard. It just makes more sense to get the B. Than get AB endowment on a class C/D driver license
just a tip guys- just incase it hasnt been mentioned. if the cab is not tilted all the way forward and only up as far as it is in 5:06 or so of the video, use the stop. There should be a stop/prop rod that will touch the frame as safety. Plenty of guys have gotten killed from the cabs coming down on them while in the engine bay.
Milk before cereal is the kind of move you make if you are: A) Criminally insane, or... B) Wanting lots of TH-cam comments to boost your engagement for the algorithm. So...good job!
I started mechanicing on semis before anything else, I got my start at an oil field company with no prior experience, now I work on all equipment and almost any vehicle. Good to see some different content, thanks
Or you need to give it a little bit of throttle when you’re pulling it out, the trannies don’t like having weight on their gears when you’re trying to rip it out of gear
I'm just impressed by how enjoyable these videos are. This is my style of video, please don't change! I've seen too many youtubers make an audience and then modify their content to please an algorithm - yes we can grow with you but don't deviate too far.
At the company I work for we had a guy get a ticket for a regular 3500 pickup with a gooseneck trailer that was empty. The ticket wasn’t for GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) it was for a GVWR issue. The truck’s axles were rated for 14,000 and the trailer’s axles were rated at 14,000 (2 x 7,000 pound axles). They were told that since the vehicle was able to haul 28,000 pounds his class C was 2,000 pounds under rated for the empty truck. Another thing to note. A class B is good for a GCWR (Gross combined weight Rating) of over 26,000 pounds but the trailer has to have a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or less. A class A license is for a GCWR of over 26,000 pounds with trailer limits over 10,000lb. So long story short (In North Carolina but as far as I know this is federal) our 3500 ram with gooseneck trailer can only be hauled by class A drivers. I feel this will need a class A to haul cars unless you can get it de-rated somehow. Loving the channel so far by the way, these kind of projects are right up my alley!
I'm hoping that without a fifth wheel connection, and no trailer hitch (I didn't look closely), they can register this as a typical 25,950 (or, ideally, even lower based on how they will be using it) truck. Depends on how strict the state is on adhering to the original build certification for the VIN vs. what a vehicle becomes as a collector's modified vehicle. Crazy thing is that I just quit my job and bought myself a just-under-26k truck as well. Like Jerry, I think that I bought too much truck; I could have gone for a little Isuzu cab-over instead. In the state I'm in I've seen owners register their (single rear axle) trucks at both over and under manufacturer's GVWR based on how they were using their trucks. And it kinda works unless they cross state lines.
I'm not sure how strict California is, but commercial vehicle usually means you use it to make money. They're not really using the truck for commercial use, it's just part of their channel that makes them the money. They're not hauling loads to other people for profit or anything similar. They seem to wanna use it as a personal vehicle to play in and work on their personal cars with
@@redneck94chevyI know nothing about registering trucks like this but for what it’s worth I do know in California every pickup truck is technically registered as commercial. My 1988 Toyota pickup has a commercial status registration card. Looked it up and it’s the case for all trucks in the state.
Boys I just want to say it's been great watching you 2 tinker on these vehicles in such detail and explaining everything whilst clearly having a lot of fun, including when y'all make little mistakes makes it feel more real, almost like we're doing it ourselves. I never thought I'd enjoy watching somebody work on an old big rig but here we are! Keep it comin! Also when we taking the Silvia out on the track? Looking forward to that one
When working on the truck it is not advised to keep the cab half-cocked. Always leave it fallen forward as any failure is going to crush anyone standing underneath. That's the advice from a certified MAN mechanic.
Most american market trucks have support bars you put in place when half-open (not that I saw one here - thought the same as you) Ya'll are the experts on them though, the only cabovers I get to work on anymore are Pete/Mack garbage trucks or mobile cranes. It's crazy how far ahead in some areas you guys are/how different the mechanics roles are.
@@andoletube It didn’t look good, if they had to use a wheel to hold it up previously I would guess there’s no safety stand so I just hope there’s was something out of shot holding it up, wouldn’t like to see the lads get squished.
Probably already been said : 16:00 you will feel it “slide” into gear when the revs are matched nicely. But it’s not just the revs that need to be in sync. It needs to be your: Motor - Ears Revs - Hand/Feet Shifter - Extension of the Arm Mood - All the Above TOGETHER. It will all just click at some point and THEN it will just become second nature and a normal natural thing that you’d subconsciously. As weird as this all sounds for some, it makes perfects sense to the ones who know. Sick “Big Rig” guys. And thank you for some different yet same foundational content ! 🙌🏻
My dad had a Ford Ranger that I used to shift like that. Dad told me I was going to do something to the tranny but I think it just pissed him off that I could do it and he couldn't.
@@Parents_of_Twins if it had a synchro gear box in it, that was him in utter fear I’d say ! Hahaha . Most definitely can be driven and done, the room for error…well there isn’t much of one in comparison . Soo yeah , probably had a flavour of jealousy in the mix too thinking about it more so hahaha! Pore bugger
God I love this channel already, I've never had a single thought of watching videos about big haulers, didn't even cross my mind. But I'm fully invested in BigTime Bud and I see this truck becoming the mascot of this channel.
Starting off....the parking brake spring is an emergency back up....the larger parking brake chambers have 2 sections....one overcomes the emergency spring and the other actuates the service brakes by supplying air to the rear portion of the chamber before you get confused troubleshooting and there is air coming out of one of the brake lines every time you apply the brake....Secondly you shouldn't have to pull hard to get into gear even if it's wore out....best way to get a feel for it is use 2 fingers to put firm pressure on the shifter in the gate so you feel the gears just start to kiss eachother.....as you get closer to the actual shift point the vibrations will slow down....use that feeling to guide your throttle....I usually pull into neutral and blip the throttle then apply slight pressure and see if the gear grinding gets slower or faster then roll into the throttle chasing the slower vibrations.....takes about 2 weeks and it'll be second nature...pro tip makes life easier to leave the Jake brake off when you know your going to be shifting alot......finally Cali has some weird laws but being a non dpf truck you cannot get apportioned tags in that state....your best bet is to register it as an rv for personal use which should also get you around needing a cdl.....commercial insurance is it's own nightmare so it'll save you a substantial amount of money there.....I pay 1800 a year for apportioned tags including the 2290 heavy use tax and 73200 dollars a month for commercial insurance for perspective
I don't normally interact with videos but I'm loving the big rig content and your guys story after seeing you on donut from the OG days, inspires me to chase my childhood dream of building an old school bus into a toy hauler/camper. Cant help but notice you've still got the bug screen over the front grill. Wonder if this might contribute to overheating in the warmer climate as its typically meant to keep heat in the engine bay during warmer months. Seems like you guys are gonna have a huge community for support on this!
I work for Rush truck centers. We have a store in venture. I can sell you whatever parts you need for this unit and ship direct to you. If you have questions just ask we still have some techs who used to work on these units when they were new.
Bumping comment
Bump
gotta bump
Rush truck suckkkks. At least the Fontana location does.
@bigtime
I think Jeremiah left Donut just so he could be naked on camera lol
I hear that OnlyFans pays better than TH-cam... 🤔
As a straight man I whole heartedly stand by his decision
@@kingumedia7477 liar liar pants on fire
I always thought he looked like a long lost member of blink 182 and all this nudity just confirmed it lol
@@warhunter8471plants for hire
CDL driver here. With the truck being a single axle, air brake equipped, and 14k lbs. I would say the minimum license needed would be a CDL B with Air Brake endorsement. Definitely talk to the DMV or Highway Patrol and they should be able to guide you into what is needed so the legality isn't in question anymore lol. Plus wouldn't be a bad series of seeing Jeremiah and Jobe training for CDL class and getting their licenses.
Agree!
Yep. The boys getting an air brake license would just be good entertainment. Call it “Rig Time”.
Definitely need an air brake endorsement at least.
I was thinking this, plus they intend on weighing it down more with tools and potential towing. Might as well be smart about it!
Dude get your class a. I would love that as a series
Absolute ballsy to look at an old truck and communicate the enthusiasm to a crowd that was really not expecting this kind of wildcard piece. Also amazing to see that there's truckers and truck mechanics on here contributing their experience to the show!
someone who pours milk before cereal needs therapy
very baffling
Only time pouring cereal into milk is acceptable is if you're on your 2nd bowl.
@@bloodyirishman9155 preach
Engagement bait... it worked well seeing how many comments have been posted about it already.
@bloodyirishman9155 you are correct sir🙏
CDL A driver 10+ years and I'm very impressed with how much you've learned about semi truck operations. The suspension, brakes, seat adjustment and even the transmission when switching hi-low gears are all air actuated. It's the life blood of the truck, without pressurized air you have a bigass paperweight.
The truck may be under the 26k gross limit, but the air brakes alone, as others have said, will require at least a CDL B with air brakes endorsement.
Also when it comes to tires, make sure you put virgin (brand new) tires on the steer axle. Drive tires you can get away with some cheap re-caps, but it's illegal to put re-caps on the steer axle for safety reasons. Steer tire blowouts are no joke and will guarantee a crash if you're caught by surprise and unprepared.
Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the CDL exams!! 👌🏾
Retreads are allowed on the steer axle if they meet cali requirements and not on a bus or farm labor vehicle. Not saying it's a good idea but it is legal. However those steer tires appeared in pretty decent shape.
Air brakes alone do not require a CDL. It's the GVWR combined with air brakes that would require him to have a CDL with an air brake endorsement. If he got the truck derated to a 26,000 or lower GVWR, he wouldn't need a CDL. With the pickup bed on it, it may be classified as a straight truck (think dump truck or rollback tow truck), so at most he would just need a non-commercial class B license.
@@tylerherrman9569well the truck is currently 14k pounds, so he should be in the clear if thats the case right? Or would he have to take extra steps to ensure he is legal?
@@lilmancc35 The 14k pounds is the curb weight, not the GVWR. GVWR is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or the maximum amount that the truck is capable of weighing. DOT says that any vehicle that has a GVWR over 26,001 lbs. that doesn't have a special use permit (farm use, snow plows, etc.) is a commercial vehicle. He would have to either find a way to get a special use permit, possibly be able to register it as an RV, or get it derated to decrease the GVWR and make it legal.
I can't speak for California, but I know that many states (including my home state of Washington and neighboring Idaho) have CDL exemptions for collectors operating big rigs, even with air brakes and 26,000+ GVW rating, as long as it's not used commercially. Each state can vary, though.
And it can be a good idea to print out the laws specifying these exemptions and keep them in your glove box, in case you're ever stopped by state patrol.
I love how this movement of car guys off of these big corporate platforms is kind of bringing back the grassroots, backyard building with buddies TH-cam days that we used to love not that long ago ❤
Corporate platforms = talentless parasite that couldn't 'content' their way out of a wet paper bag............
fr
@@pecekcecek1811 fr fr
until these guys sell the channel and the circle is complete
Yeah but all Jobe does is complain and not partake much in the videos, I actually find it really annoying to watch
Hey boys, I just wanted to correct something real quick, the brake chamber has a spring brake, you can “cage” those and release the brakes. It has 2 chambers, one is to compress the spring when you press in the parking knob. The second one is the service brakes. It doesn’t brake with the spring brake, that’s just for parking, it brakes with the air tank pressure being applied by the service line of the brake chamber. The next part is called the “slack adjuster” that is like a ratchet wrench the connects the rod of the brake chamber to the s cam, some slack adjusters are manual and needed to be adjusted every day after a whole day of driving, my very first rig a 1987 peterbilt had them and I hated them, you could be having full braking power in the morning and after a day of local driving you DID NOT. The next part is the S cam, is just a cam but instead of lobes it has an S shaped looking end, it spreads the brakes shoes outwards towards the drum. To check if your brakes are good, you have to check drum thickness, shoe thickness and make sure the rod of the chamber doesn’t extend outwards more than 2-1/4 inch. Hope that was helpful.
About the legality of driving it as a regular truck, you can register it as a “recreational vehicle” and it should be fine with a class C.
First few YT creator animations I saw were wrong... Haldex is of course 100%
th-cam.com/video/2xMQwHo6eoc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gU8Cjm8CFr2s9my1
Came here for this. They left Donut because they were pressured to release videos quickly and got stuff wrong. Funny, it's still the same. And they're not reading constructive criticism comments.
@@bradames3755 to be fair, trucks are a whole different world and there’s not as much info out there in older equipment anymore. It’s fine to be wrong, just need to learn and correct
@B0RN2RACE100 sure, if any truck brakes worked like they said, which they dont; and if a quick info search didn't yield a clear explanation, which it does; and if it wasn't presented as a teaching moment, which it was; and if they weren't making videos for profit, which they are; and it was a fun little channel with low viewer numbers, but they have a huge following; etc. I'll give passes for honest mistakes, not for laziness.
@@bradames3755 you’re right, it was very lazy of them. At the very minimum they should have had a trucker teaching them the ins and out of trucks. Even though they have a huge following, this channel is new, I’m sure they’re facing a lot of issues with starting a new business.
Okay, so those engines are Detroit Diesel engines, and there is something you need to know
1. Carbon builds up in the ports. This happens to all 3 series: 53, 71, and 92. I asked a Navy Mechanic, who works on 4-53s found on the tugs on Aircraft Carriers, how hard it is to clean out, and he described it as a "nightmare". To ensure this doesn't happen, you need to run these things pretty high in RPMs.
2. These things HATE low RPMs. You cannot lug these like 4 strokers can be. They will blow up if you do that.
3. These have mechanical fuel systems, and there have been times where the fuel rail gets stuck at wide open throttle, creating a diesel runaway. If this happens, you need to put something over the intake to stop it's airflow. No oxygen, no ignition. Most people will use a piece of plywood. There has only been one time where they didn't have a mechanical fuel system, and that was on the Crusty Fat Cab, a racing truck with a common-rail converted 8V92T.
4. These leak oil 99.9% of the time. Remember the common detroit mechanic saying: If there's no oil under them, there isn't any in them.
And they are probably the best sounding big diesel engines :)
Sounds like a great buy
Heard from a couple places of people stuffing a phone book on the intake of a big diesel during a runaway, and the thing would pull the phone book through the intake and still not stop the engine. Figured it was my dad spouting bullshit, but I've encountered the stories on a couple forums, and nobody on those forums seemed to think that was unrealistic.
@@LifeInJambles DeBoss garage on YT has a video where they ran-away a Detroit until it blew.
What do you do if it starts a “runaway” when you are driving?
10:00 There is a cable on the drain valve for a reason.. You just pull the cable and it will drain the tanks out.
Much easier than tapping with golf club. Just pull the cable diagonally from the release valve and it will be fine, the fitting inside is multi directional and will retract back in closed position.
14:45 That pop noise and rapid ticking noise you keep hearing would be your air governor kick out once the tanks are full. After using brakes etc drains the tanks. So air governor will kick in to charging really quick to fill tanks up then POP.
15:55 floating gears is natural to me at this point, been using 13 speeds and 18 speeds and would prefer those over a 10 speed or 9 speed.
Give you a better idea on how to float and not be soo destructive to your gearbox... Each gear on a 13 speed has a 400rpm difference between them.
When you split the gears with the high range gears (side switch you flip with your thumb) it is only 200rpm difference
You do not have to be that hard on your gearbox, I'm usually very gentle with them and never grind the gears. because (VERY EXPENSIVE FIX)
With a little bit of math you can also skip gears to get up to speed quicker, (your case being as small and only 6 wheels instead of 10)
You can easily start in 3rd, skip to 5 high (800 rpm difference)
Never even got close to one of those big guys, but I'm wondering what are the advantages of floating the gears instead of using the clutch. Could you give some insight?
@RafaelSoaresP advantages are less wear on clutch. And the clutch does not operate the same as a car or pickup you have to double clutch. If you push clutch all the way in to goto next gear it won't happen. Double clutching just wears the throw out bearing out and you will constantly be needing to get a clutch adjustment for the clutch brake.
@RafaelSoaresP these transmissions are unsychronized, pushing the clutch won't make shifting possible, it's all about input and output speed matching. Double-clutching kinda snaps everything together to make the timing similar enough to allow the shift collar to spline into place. Floating is the easiest on equipment. Kinda have to forget what you know about driving manual and learn a whole new thing
@@RafaelSoaresPyou'll be pumping your leg constantly. Each gear only has a very small amount of RPM and speed increase. Most of the time you'd barely ever start off in 1st and most of the time you'd be skipping gears depending on your weight.
Imagine driving a manual car that is 6 speed and the amount of times you push the clutch in.. now imagine you have double or more gears.
Also, those gearboxes don't have synchro's, so it would be clutch in 1st gear > clutch out > clutch in to neutral> clutch out > clutch in to 2nd > clutch out.. these old gearboxes most of the time would need you to "double clutch" (which is the process I just listed out)
You can 'float gears' in a car easily as well by rev matching, as long as your speed and rpm are up to the next gear you can gently shift to the next without the clutch. Gearing down will need you to blip the throttle to bring the revs up to match the lower gear.
Man, do I miss driving manual 😔
@XXB4XX I will congest we call first gear "granny low" Because 1st gear would be a little too much (9, 13, and 18 speeds just say Lo). In some scenarios and steep hills. Sometimes I throw it in granny low then skip over to 2nd for torque and getting up to speed better.
Granny low I WING the RPMs out to 2100 then float over to 2nd nice and smooth RPM's land at 1300 with enough rpm and torque to pull out with 120,000 pounds for next gear. (Sometimes I throw in into 4th next) because they all low gears.
The cursing and more freedom in general is actually a breath of fresh air, I like these videos, maybe even more than Donut itself...
These guys are/were Donut, along with James and Nolan. We'll probably see Nolan dip soon too, unless he's enjoying being the top dawg presenter at Donut.
These 2 were the reason I kept watching donut lol.
Hey Brother, I own a Trucking business in TX. Save some money and change your wheels out to 22.5 instead of 24.5. For what you are hauling its over kill. The rims can be found used easily and should be about 150 each and the tires will be less expensive as well.
As someone with over a decade of diesel shop experience, I *EMPLORE YOU* switch to 22.5 wheels and tires! Commonly referred to as “low pro 22.5”. They’re gonna be cheaper and easier to come by. Wheels can get pricey but A) you don’t NEED aluminum wheels, and B) you can recoup some of the money by selling your current aluminum wheels.
You can find used tires for around $200. New Chinese tires (Ironman, DoubleCoin, etc) for like $350. Yokohama and Hankook seem to be most common “decent” tire in the industry.
I'm betting that truck has 24.5 wheels to help with top speed. I've had several trucks from that era and since there was a 55mph speed limit then, most of the trucks would only run about 62mph on the factory 10.00x20's. I switched all of mine to tall 24.5 to get them up around 72 mph.
A set of recap tires for the rear. The casings look good, so they'll get some money back there to soften the blow. Those don't actually look like 11R24.5 though, did he read the tire or just measure the wheel? Hard to tell scale from the video, but 24.5 stand TALL.
They can half cheat by just running aluminum outers with steel inners.
@@Landspecialistsllc For the cost difference and availability of a 24.5 vs a 22.5, they may be able to just re-gear the rear end. Which would be worthwhile anyways going real tall on the gears to get some MPGs, seeing as they'll likely never come close to stressing the capacity of that drivetrain.
@@coltonmcrae5873yes, they’re a LP24.5 (~42” tall). I’m suggesting switching to LP22.5 for availability. You could run steel inner aluminum outer. I just figured why spend the money? For now.
@@themikeyfriscowhere I’m from 11R 24.5’s aren’t hard to get at all, and they’re priced within 20% of an 11r22.5 and 10% of a low-pro 22.5 which are usually higher than an 11r, I’m guessing because not many run them around here. Almost all big tandem and triaxle dump trucks and other voc trucks run them for extra weight capacity, ground clearance and of course they’ll give a slightly higher top speed. On a hobby truck like this they’ll probably loose tires to dry rot before they ever wear a set out so it’s really more about the look you want vs cost and functionality…..with the exception of top speed which is always a consideration.
1. I live in CA and was a diesel mechanic on commercial trucks before switching over to commercial driving in the past year. I'm speaking from my experience as someone who recently acquired their CDL about 3 years ago in CA and as someone who has spent time working on these trucks for a living. I recommend you guys get a full DOT inspection on your truck because there are many nuances with commercial vehicles and specifications your truck has to meet or it can put you in legal trouble if you are stopped by the DOT.
2. At the minimum you need a class B CDL with an air brake endorsement along with no manual transmission restriction. The reason for the CDL is because the GVWR of your truck is at 49,000lb and even if it has been modified, the factory manufacturing stamp is what the truck is still rated for in the eyes of the law. When I took my CDL test at the DMV I also had to specify and take my test in a manual transmission truck, if not your CDL will have a restriction where you can only drive automatic transmission trucks.
3. Your standard class C license allows you to drive a truck that has a GVWR of under 26,000 lbs regardless if it has air brakes or not. An example of this would be a box truck you can rent from companies like Penske, most of those trucks factory door stamp stickers will state the GVWR is 25,999 so it does not require a CDL.
Oh your comment is gold
I understand requiring a special license for vehicles over a certain size but that's crazy that the government will only let you drive a certain type of transmission if you can't show up with a manual transmission truck.
This is what I know. The problem is, if you ask 20 people, including DMV workers and DOT cops, you’ll get 22 different answers. It’s nuts.
@@tylerfb1can confirm. I saw a truck once
Can you derate a vehicle in CA? Couldn't they potentially derate the truck down to 25999, its possible in other states, don't have a clue about CA, so genuine question you might know the answer to.
Semi driver here, this is the most excited Ive been in a while. Been praying donut would do something like this, so I speak for all us road dogs when I say yall are the best
I'm not a semi driver and I was excited to see this. Definitely what I thought donut would've ended up being. Glad these 2 are doing this.
Semi driver here as well and I’m loving this as well
How do you feel about the push to automate all big trucks by 2026?
Love big truck content on a car/bike channel! You're half right on the rear brakes, the front half of the chamber on the rear axle stays filled with air to release park brake, the second hose on the back of it pressurizes the chamber to push the rod out when using the foot brake. To engage park brakes, the front section is evacuated and a giant spring holds the rod out, forcing the shoes into the drum. The chambers on the front axle have a single hose that only pressurizes to actuate the foot brake. It's confusing and I'm still learning every day. But great content guys! Love the vintage nascar shirts
CDL driver here from SoCal I believe the air brakes are going to get you legally because you have to take a test for those at the DMV. It’s one of the many extra tests we have to take when renewing our license. You may only need to get a class B because it’s just the tractor so it’s more like a box truck. The not for hire personnel tow vehicle does change things though so you might just have to pay a large registration fee due to weight. Fingers crossed for you guys. Definitely get a hold of someone at the DMV, there are commercial only ones in Carson and Fontana that only deal with rigs. Probably your best place to start. Trust me you want nothing to do with DOT Bears (those are the ones in the pickups with camper shells on the back) and scales avoid it at all cost. I’m looking forward to where this project goes though because it’s an awesome idea.
they are real strict about air brakes i just passed my test 4 months ago and you cant mess up a single thing on your air break test
You only need to retake written test when you have been given a citation. If you got a clean record just pay a small fee to renew.
In California, can you go to a Uhaul and rent a 26 foot truck as a normal licensed driver? In the Midwest, we can. They have airbrakes, and they are about the same weight when empty. But it's Cali, so anything goes. I fully expect that if this truck came near a DMV in your state, they might seize it for the crusher.
Unless it's registered as an RV
@@pentuplemintgum666 Those are typically modified to not use Air Brakes and use regular disc brakes instead. Makes stopping 'em reeeeeal sketchy.
The time Jeremiah puts into research so that he can break down every fundamental component of every part of every vehicle and then speak about it fluently is amazing. The guy never misses a beat. Without a doubt, the smartest person who was a part of donut media
I agree, under the truck segment was great. The production quality with the voice over is awesome.
maybe he should have researched how to use the water valve on the air tank
@986kph lmao it looked like he "tried" to release it normally but didn't succeed so he resorted to an alternative method via golf club
He does in fact have a masters degree in some sort of engineering that i dont remember lol
@kdub_ you pull on those things, that's what the wire on it is for
HET technician here. So the brake chamber has a massive spring in it that applies the brakes when there's no pressure. We call it the death spring because it will kill you if you open that brake chamber without caging the spring. When the system has pressure it compresses the spring to release the brake. But when you are driving and press the brake pedal, you still use pressure in the service side of the brake pot to apply the brakes. That spring doesn't move in and out while driving. It's always compressed while driving.
This^
Came down here to say this, good explanation. I will say though it’s hard to understand how the 2 work together when you’re first learning about brake chambers
A tip you may not appreciate now but will in the future. Always carry an extra longest and shortest hydraulic line in sizes you need. You will be covered in any situation if you bust one. Commercial Fisherman here and we keep spares of everything on board because its kinda hard to get parts 50+ miles offshore.
man, the way Jobe sits on that truck, laid back with feet on the dash, makes it seem like that thing is sooooo cozy, like a couch in a living room xD
Wholesome fs
He also seemed to be holding that glovebox closed.
@@MumrikDK think he broke the latch 😂
Almost nailed the Air brake explanation Jerry, you basically covered how the parking brake side of the chamber works.
Air pressure = release
No pressure = spring brake applied
But the "service" side of the chamber uses air pressure to force the push rod with much more force than the parking brake springs can apply. Still good to know we have that fail safe though the spring brakes will come on if you lose air but it won't likely stop a loaded truck very quickly
I wondered that because it seemed incredibly dangerous for it to slam to a full stop if you had a failure.
I was gonna comment this.
I was going to say the same thing, but was sure there was someone before me that explained it already xD
Yeah, his explanation is more applicable to train brakes. Thanks for clarifying for the rest of viewers.
@snowe.. in the event of loss of air pressure or the ability to make more pressure the brakes can generally be applied a couple of times as it only pressurizes the chamber and doesn't continue to use air unless you press harder on the pedal or are on and off it again. And they don't start applying until you're down around 60psi so unless the failure is between the valve and the chamber then you can still stop without it locking up until below the minimum release pressure.
Generally speaking if you see you are loosing air pressure and all warning functions are operational you have enough air pressure left to get to the side of the road before they lock
The dog leaving him absolutely high and dry at 4:50 is hilarious
That exactly what I was thinking
Bro, the dog poop on the corner or the towel scene is crazy 😂😂😂
The brakes in the rear are combination brake chamber meaning that the parking brake and the service brake is housed in the same unit separated by a manifold. The end without the pushrod is your parking brake and the end with you pushrod is the service brake.
Parking brakes are applied when air is released from them (via the PPV on the dash) then when you push the PPV (push pull valve) air is then pressurizing the parking brake diaphragm in the chamber. DO NOT TAKE THAT CHAMBER APART!!!! The air is compressing a very large spring in the parking brake chamber and it will hurt you.
Service brakes are operated by air pressure supplied by the brake petal. Other known as the Treadle Valve. No air pressure in the service chamber means that the vehicle has the ability to roll. The brake pedal will meter air pressure into the service chamber allowing you to have controllable brake applications.
I am a Heavy Truck and Diesel instructor at a high school career tech center near where Jobe is from in Ohio.
Let me know if you need any help.
Dude, this is why car TH-cam is great. Because when people have a project, if the videos don't answer it, the comments do,.
Make Car TH-cam Great Again
@@Drcudartotally agree! I love to help educate people about the ins and outs of the heavy duty systems used in these vehicles. The industry is better when people have correct information to make proper repairs.
you're awesome, thanks for your information!
Thank you, I was gonna leave a similar comment.
I'll also add that this truck is old enough it might have manual slack adjusters, meaning the brakes don't automatically compensate as the shoes wear. Jer should really get under and check that because you don't notice the brakes are out of adjustment until you really need to stop, or the parking brake doesn't hold on a hill.
Milk before cereal… mans is unhinged
Needs therapy
Came here to say the same thing.
Glad you said it lol @@Benny_Lei
With a can of beer, even more atrocious.
My wife does this, I've always told her it's crazy. Now with all these comments I have proof
Y'know what, the dynamic between Jobe and Jeremiah are giving me huge old school Top Gear vibes.
Dropping off the truck uninvited into the backyard, the classic "oh it's a shame your truck has problems, anyways I'm off"
Loving the videos
Then we need one more
“vibes”
Stop. Jfc stop.
@@cwg73160someone put milk before their cereal this morning..
@@cwg73160looks like someone hates life lol
@cwg73160 those are some bad VIBES bro 🙃
The part of the brakes that was skipped for anyone who cares is, the pushrod pushes the slack adjuster, which is splined over an S-cam. The S-cam rotates and pushes the against the rollers, which the brake shoes are riding on, and the action of the S-cam pushing on the rollers spreads the brake shoes apart, making contact inside the brake drum.
Being as old as it is, you'll need to determine whether or not they're automatic slack adjusters (ASA) or manual, though I suspect they've been upgraded to ASAs over the years. This will determine whether or not you'll need to adjust them manually to maintain properly functioning brakes or if they will adjust themselves.
It won't matter if you're using the vehicle privately or commercially - your brakes must be in adjustment. That truck is around 14,000lbs, so you obviously know to check for air leaks, especially in the diaphragms. Brake pressure test will be required for the service brakes to ensure there are no holes in any of the diaphragms (you'll also hear a hollow air leak sound if the maxi is leaking).
The good news is, I see there are no dust shields on the drive wheels, so you can technically keep wheel chocks in the truck, and chock the wheels before releasing the spring brakes (yellow valve/disabling the spring brakes and look over/behind the rear wheels with a flashlight to check the brakes. Only a gap the thickness of a sheet of paper should be visible between the brake liners and drums. That will cut down the amount of time it takes to check the brake adjustment in the rear. The fronts are almost certainly shielded, but if you can properly see where the liner contacts the drum through the inspection holes, you can save yourself a lot of time. Maintaining that tiny gap will help ensure you can emergency-stop. A gap that is clearly visible without checking means the braking will be weak and you may not be able to stop if someone pulls out in front of you, for example. Stupid people has happened to me plenty of times.
Love that you bought this. These Detroit Diesels do have a blower, but it's not a supercharger. That is to say, its function is not to compress air. It just blows positive air pressure slightly more than ambient pressure through the intake ports, as 2-stroke diesels need artificial aspiration to start. Once its running, all the forced induction is done by the turbocharger. :)
When Jerry said "i guess it is 9,000 lbs" i said, there is NO way in hell that truck is that light, that's at least 14,000 lbs, i was right on the money! 🤣🤣
Right.. I said at least 14, probably 15...
🫓
I said 14 as well lol, there was no way that would be near 9,000
That would have made it lighter than the Hummer EV!
I was going for 15!
My grandfather used to drive that same rig, in the exact same color scheme, here in Canada, he used to drive Oil/Diesel/Gas, cross border all the time. It wouldn't surprise me if your truck came from somewhere up north, and migrated it's way to you, as it was modified. If it is the same rig (which I doubt), it makes me happy to see it still running and still doing work, even after all this time. Brings back fond memories, and hope you guys have fun, keep up the good work, you guys are doing awesome!!
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 SAFETY WARNING 🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨
ALWAYS USE A CAB PROP WHEN THE CAB IS TILTED. Even if it's just a 2x4 stuck between the frame and the cab. I drove those things for 30 years and my first truck was a 77 Kenworth K100, so I was warned and I'm passing it on. Plus, I've seen 💩.
Those cables on the air tanks are made for a hand to grab and pull to let the air out. It's always a good idea to drain the tanks DAILY because in colder climates the water in the air lines will freeze and the brakes won't release.
Jerry will get used to driving without using the clutch pedal. I don't think I used one for the last 28 years of my driving career.
I hope the diesel mechanic will school you on the "leakiness" of Detroits. It's a common trucker joke that the driver pulls in to the fueling stop and says, "top off the fuel, and fill up the oil." It's the nature of those old two strokes. Get a large cardboard to place under the truck as the dry seals soften up or Jobe's yard will be a Superfund site.
Everything about these trucks makes it sound like it'll absolutely suck as their "every once in a while" vehicle.
+1 on propping the cab, here in europe it's standard practice, you'll die a very gruesome death just trusting the hydraulic ram
@@godalmighty8018 I do believe that your Mercedes, Volvos, MANs etc (Euro- specific manufacturers) have two prop rods installed when the trucks are new. I think Kenworth/Peterbilt (the PACCAR twins) only had one from the factory and after a few years of tilting, they just break and people yank off the safety gear.
I was also a transportation manager at one point, and I would have yelled like crazy at my people who didn't use something to prop that cab up.
"Jobe's yard will be a Superfund site" totally cracked me up
@@bailntigg {takes bow}
As a diesel mechanic that grew up loving cars and watching donut and now getting to see my favorite hosts do there own thing in my neck of the woods is sooo cool!!! love you guys keep doing what your doing! those DD are something else!
I’m starting to think Jeremiah left Donut because they didn’t let him get naked as often as he wanted. 😂
I heard he hired a body double. That slong isn't his. :(
@@WARXionwait cockk was showing?
Let his inner Florida man out
WHAT THE HELL WAS THAT CEREAL TECHNIQUE
It's called the mid life crisis technique
A cry for help 😂
Bait
It's called the "I don't like mushy soggy cereal". Do you soak your bread in water before making a sandwich with it, all soggy and whatnot?
Pouring the milk first was the first ad sponsored by cereal killers😂
I like how quitting Donut has seemed to open doors on Jer's humoristic behaviors 😂 Also really think y'all made a great choice by starting your own thing.
I love that this has more views than the most recent Donut video, just as proof that y'all are definitely on the right path.
I love even more that the Donut video isn't far behind, because those guys still kick ass.
Hello from Canada. Thought you should know that your brake pots on the drive axel have two chambers. One chamber (the end opposite the rod) is the emergency brake chamber applying spring pressure to apply brakes when there is no air. When you push in the yellow button in the dash (tractor parking brake) as well as the blue button (brake release) air is sent into the emergency brake chamber to release spring pressure. When you step on the brake pedal air is sent to the service chamber (the end near the rod) to apply brakes with air pressure. There is a foot valve on the fire wall that allows for control of the amount of air supplied to the service chamber. This valve is operated by the brake pedal, if you push harder more pressure is sent and the brakes apply harder. The front brake pots have just one chamber for service. Another detail to note is that your truck is old enough to have manual slack adjusters on the brake cams. Make sure your brakes are set up properly.
Boys, never tip the cab half-way
All the way, or no tilt, it's like working under a car lifted by chinese jacks
Watching the whole sequence, I'm thinking "one hydraulic line busts and they're done".
I was thinking that too and I know nothing about semis
I was wondering that when they were looking at the engine. The internet safety no nothing idiot in me was like "that looks sketch, but what do I know".
They had it resting on a tire, it wasn't being held up by the hydraulic lines.
I guess we haven't heard of blocking here? I mean he did literally show them sitting the cab on a tire.....
I wonder how confused youtube was when they had to send a gold plaque for a channel that hasn't even been up 6 months.
Worked for the CA DMV at a CDL office for 5 years. If you were to get stopped by law enforcement, they would be looking at the GVWR listed on the Federal Safety label located on the door frame. Like Jerry said about getting a weight certificate to determine fees is mostly correct, but usually only required for pickups that are under 10,000 lbs empty weight. Most large commercial vehicles need to have a declaration of gross vehicle weight filled out during the initial registration, and those ones get the door stickers you see on most big rigs on the road. You could drive their truck with a Commercial B license as long as any trailer towed also has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs or less. If your trailer is over 10,000 lbs, a Commercial A is needed. Definitely one of the most confusing Driver License subjects. I don't miss it. Lol
I have a CDL from another state, so the Cali rules might be a bit different from IL. Since that truck has air brakes you will need to get at least a class B CDL license. The tests are a bit easier for the class B since you can take the road test in a straight truck and the knowledge part is pared down a bit too. My first license was a class B to drive a snowplow and upgraded later.
As for the road legality of your truck, you might want to visit the DMV and talk to one of the supervisors and tell them what you are trying to accomplish and what the best way to be legal is. I'm guessing that a private registration and "private vehicle, not for hire" signage might be in your future. In my experience if you approach the DMV people looking to be collaborative and not adversarial, they can be quite helpful.
I would suggest finding a CDL driving school that would be willing to let you do some filming and make an episode or two on getting your class A CDL. It might really be helpful for people who might be considering getting their license and it could take some apprehension out of the decision.
Great content and I enjoy seeing the enthusiasm your having doing something you really want to do.
class C might just fit this.This might fit that since it doesn't have need combination. Or the elusive Class C cdl.
California no longer requires an air brake endorsement on your license to drive an air brake equipped vehicle.
I may be completely wrong but I think you do not need a CDL to drive a private vehicle. The truck is Not For Hire so it’s essentially an oversized pickup truck. You don’t need endorsements or licenses to drive a motorhome that’s over 26,001/with air brakes.
@@KJL-123 Problem is California cares heavily about how it left the factory. It didn't leave the factory with a pickup bed, and has a gcwr that is in excess of 26k. Not to mention, while one would think he would privately register the vehicle, it will be used in a "company" capacity, and it's not up to par with california's bus and truck laws on commercial vehicles. Pretty much any other state they would be fine in.
If it's registered as a motorhome or RV and marked not for hire you can drive it with a class D
I feel like a child watching these videos. They really brought back the magic. This channel has honestly inspired me to start playing guitar for TH-cam again.
Congrats i subscribed
21:30 “I ain’t no snitch” the way he said that 😂😂
@12:38 SOAPY WODDER MENTIONED!!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I would recommend checking with fire departments or other government agencies that run big 2.5 ton or 5 ton rigs. They're mandated to replace tires after so many years no matter the condition or usage, so they'll generally let them go for cheap.
You should replace the tires on your passenger vehicle after so many years too.
I think with this being a "commercial truck" they'll have to follow DOT rules and regs. Not sure what it is in cali but I know tires have to be replaced after a certain time. NCDOT carry scales out here and can do roadside inspections on your truck
@seanfarley1758 yup, if the sidewalls are 7 years old it's getting tossed in NC. That said, if it's not being used for commercial use (no CDL) I have to wonder if they're checking? It's not like there's any logs
@@cgunugc In Cali anything has to stop at the scales that isn’t a regular pick up. Even pick ups with altered beds like work trucks are supposed to stop at scales
@@seanfarley1758not for hire sticker exempts from most DOT guidelines. Not a commercial vehicle anymore technically
Legit have such a hard time not skipping videos or finishing them but BigTime I can actually sit through the video without getting bored and enjoy it
Same. I'm wanting to make, & upload rn since the video started yet I gave the full view. Respect!
Jer putting milk b4 cereal and then doing all that to say post truck clarity killed me
Putting milk before the cereal was a genius move. Just at all the engagement it created!
Dude's playing 3D Space Cadet Pinball while we're still figuring out how to play Minesweeper.
16:31 @ ZacJob - in a 13 speed, going from 4th to 5th gear means your going from the low side in 4th gear to the high side in 5th. So using that specific example, it is difficult to float that specific gear change because you are dealing with two separate gear ranges. Most of the time it is good to double clutch before going from low range to high or vise versa just to ensure things go in smooth and that nothing breaks.
Now, say if you are going from 5th Lo to 5th Hi, that’s easy. All you do is preselect (move the thumb selector forward) and when you are ready to shift, let up off the accelerator and it will go into gear. That’s mainly with the newer Eaton-Fuller transmissions. Same thing if you are down shifting, however now you have to raise the RPMS, so you preselect 5th Hi to 5th Lo, then blip the throttle, and it will go downshift.
It’s easier to explain floating gears going up than going down. Like you said Jobey, just let it fall into gear when you’re up-shifting (1-2-3-4 selector up 5-6-7-8). If you are down shifting, you need to raise the RPMS before you down shift(8⛽️7⛽️6⛽️5 selector down 4 or whatever gear you are going to stop in)
You really could start in 4th gear, but because of the age of that truck, i would baby the transmission. Yes, because the motor is a 2 stroke, you gotta have the motor screaming, but not necessarily true for the transmission. Baby that thing, don’t grind til’ you find it haha…. That’s just worst case scenario
As someone who drives a garbage truck, it was so fun watching someone's reaction to all the systems and parts in it. Keep it up!
If I could afford it, I’d own one! The versatility, towing capacity, and the prestige of owning and operating a big rig is such a different experience than that of most other vehicles. I applaud you Jerry. I am excited to see how far you take this build!
1:50 wtf man
All kinds of wrong lol
Nah frr
Milk first like a true psycho.
I can not describe how much I love this style of content! Please keep big time this way.
I freaking LOVE how your videos just GET RIGHT INTO IT immediately when they start. Y’all are amazing
Yes. Drive it like you're mad at it. Up shift when the governor backs off. It should go easily with light pressure. Downshifting is something you have to learn after a while. Match the revs by ear and feedback thru the gearshift. Shifting a 13 speed is usually 1-5, then pull the range knob (preselect) then you go back to the hole for #2 for 6th and then flip the lever on the knob for 7th. Preselect on the lever to shift to 8th where 3rd was). Rinse and repeat for the rest.
And you're half right about the brakes... Air pressure is needed to overcome the spring on the parking brake and also used to apply pressure for the foot brakes. MOST IMPORTANT RULE: Trucks of that era were designed to kill their drivers if they became complacent!
I'm sure your local DMV is going to have kittens lol
I was trying to explain thatbgear floating through text. How you can feel the vibration when just starting to push the shifter into desired gear. Fast vibration means engine is to high rpm for said gear. Slow vibration means engine rpm is to low. Tell tale signs if your missed it and need to give it some throttle. Or if u just need to wait and let it idle down a tad more
Jobe right on the money with floating gears. If you start to slowly pull the shifter into the gear you want you’ll start to feel a vibration any harder and it’ll grind but that vibration tells you EVERYTHING. A slow vibrations means you need to throttle up to catch said gear. And fast vibration means you need to idle down a bit more. In other words. Hit 2k rpm’s says 4th pull shifter out and slight push for 5th you’ll feel fast vibrations that are slowing down and when it’s almost matched it’ll push right into gear. It allows you to downshift by pressing the throttle with your right foot and still have your left foot on the brakes.
It’s not easy to master. But it’s a TON of fun what’s you get it
Also that 13 speed is a great tranny. 4 low range gears.5 high range. And you can split the high range. Or as you said a L and H for each high range gear. Only difference be that and an 18 speed. If you would be able to split the low range gears also. But totally unnecessary in a small truck without a trailer behind it loaded
I love that you have taken the time to explain how and why everything works again! I think you have the best educational/ comical videos on the internet! Keep teaching, keep showing us how things work and keep being funny Jeremiah. I missed the covid era of B2B and think the way you structure your videos is extremely entertaining but teaches the masses without anyone feeling taught... if that makes sense. Thank you! I'll share and like your stuff every time!
You should definitely look into the license issue more.
The 26,000 lb limit doesn't refer to the actual weight of the truck, it's what the truck is rated for.
Almost every semi tractor is under 26k, but usually rated for much more.
Also, and I may be wrong, but I think the vehicles original factory rating when titled is what is used, states usually will not accept GVWR changes.
There may be exemptions I'm unaware of however, being a Not For Hire truck.
Good luck! Love the series
I've read Into it before. The gvwr is the only thing that matters. As long as they don't load it to where it's above 26000lbs, they'll be legal
He still need air brake endorsements, not sure if you can get that on a class C. Worst comes to worst he just gets a class B
@@Wren02 you do not need an airbrake endorsement. You can rent a box truck from Penske with airbrakes with a Class C. The endorsement is only needed when being over 26,000 GVWR. The issue with this vehicle is they need to get it certified to have a GVWR of less than 26,000 since its not in its original form. Currently its rated at 49,000 technically. Though its modified. But they are 100% riding dirty right now because the MFD sticker on this big son of a gun is tagged as a Class 8.
@@masonmills3998where did you read this? because I'm 99% sure it's just false
This is what I said. Idk about Cali but in mass. I personally own 5-6 different trucks. Some tractors most 10, or tri axle dump. But as long as we remove the 5th wheel from the tractor. Then anyone can drive it on a CDL B. He’s under the weight limit. But simply having air brakes is going to be the issue. Getting a CDL B. Or air brake endorsement for his current license isn’t hard. It just makes more sense to get the B. Than get AB endowment on a class C/D driver license
cereal after the milk is poured is serial killer behavior jer!
You mean cereal killer behaviour 🤣
I can’t even begin to explain how perfect the music is for this channel. That Latin jam was 🤌🏻
just a tip guys- just incase it hasnt been mentioned. if the cab is not tilted all the way forward and only up as far as it is in 5:06 or so of the video, use the stop. There should be a stop/prop rod that will touch the frame as safety. Plenty of guys have gotten killed from the cabs coming down on them while in the engine bay.
20:55 looks like the truck is smokinggg
Bro milk first? Psycho
Bro milk
Like a true connoisseur.
Gross you like mushy soggy cereal?!?! Sociopath activities. xD
@@zech6846 Milk your bros, bro.
I was about to post the same thing!!!
Milk before cereal is the kind of move you make if you are:
A) Criminally insane, or...
B) Wanting lots of TH-cam comments to boost your engagement for the algorithm.
So...good job!
I started mechanicing on semis before anything else, I got my start at an oil field company with no prior experience, now I work on all equipment and almost any vehicle. Good to see some different content, thanks
this is getting way too real
Hi Jameskii, i'm a big fan!
@16:40 former truck driver here. If it's hard to pull out of gear you're not at the right RPM. You have to shift fast but it shouldn't be hard.
Or you need to give it a little bit of throttle when you’re pulling it out, the trannies don’t like having weight on their gears when you’re trying to rip it out of gear
Lower your rpm’s to shift easier.
And the MONEY PIT series continues. This time featuring a 50 year old truck. Love the content you are making. Keep it up
I'm just impressed by how enjoyable these videos are. This is my style of video, please don't change! I've seen too many youtubers make an audience and then modify their content to please an algorithm - yes we can grow with you but don't deviate too far.
Guys, the milk before cereal was the joke about needing therapy 😂
And the Bud Light
I love the chill atmosphere and how all you look like you genuinely have a good time.
1:40 you did not just do that!
I came to the comments immediately. He's just trying to fuck with us 😂
@@kdub_literally
dude imagine taking a road trip in that thing (minus the problems) all that space in the cab looks nice
"At this point, Jeremiah realised he fucked up"! ....and all his tools are too small!! lol
The comedy here doesn’t miss …post truck clarity 😂
At the company I work for we had a guy get a ticket for a regular 3500 pickup with a gooseneck trailer that was empty. The ticket wasn’t for GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) it was for a GVWR issue. The truck’s axles were rated for 14,000 and the trailer’s axles were rated at 14,000 (2 x 7,000 pound axles). They were told that since the vehicle was able to haul 28,000 pounds his class C was 2,000 pounds under rated for the empty truck. Another thing to note. A class B is good for a GCWR (Gross combined weight Rating) of over 26,000 pounds but the trailer has to have a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or less. A class A license is for a GCWR of over 26,000 pounds with trailer limits over 10,000lb. So long story short (In North Carolina but as far as I know this is federal) our 3500 ram with gooseneck trailer can only be hauled by class A drivers. I feel this will need a class A to haul cars unless you can get it de-rated somehow. Loving the channel so far by the way, these kind of projects are right up my alley!
I'm hoping that without a fifth wheel connection, and no trailer hitch (I didn't look closely), they can register this as a typical 25,950 (or, ideally, even lower based on how they will be using it) truck. Depends on how strict the state is on adhering to the original build certification for the VIN vs. what a vehicle becomes as a collector's modified vehicle. Crazy thing is that I just quit my job and bought myself a just-under-26k truck as well. Like Jerry, I think that I bought too much truck; I could have gone for a little Isuzu cab-over instead.
In the state I'm in I've seen owners register their (single rear axle) trucks at both over and under manufacturer's GVWR based on how they were using their trucks. And it kinda works unless they cross state lines.
I'm not sure how strict California is, but commercial vehicle usually means you use it to make money. They're not really using the truck for commercial use, it's just part of their channel that makes them the money. They're not hauling loads to other people for profit or anything similar. They seem to wanna use it as a personal vehicle to play in and work on their personal cars with
I need a convoy
Wonder if the air brakes throw the issue into an automatic class B
@@redneck94chevyI know nothing about registering trucks like this but for what it’s worth I do know in California every pickup truck is technically registered as commercial. My 1988 Toyota pickup has a commercial status registration card. Looked it up and it’s the case for all trucks in the state.
Boys I just want to say it's been great watching you 2 tinker on these vehicles in such detail and explaining everything whilst clearly having a lot of fun, including when y'all make little mistakes makes it feel more real, almost like we're doing it ourselves. I never thought I'd enjoy watching somebody work on an old big rig but here we are! Keep it comin! Also when we taking the Silvia out on the track? Looking forward to that one
IDK anyone that drives a semi and I don't want to buy one but man am I excited to watch u guys fix this one!
7:04 “It has and after cooler”
“How’s that work?”
“Smart kids”
Yall seem legit happy and Im glad your doing it the way you want
You and Zach are my favorite youtube personalities!! Keep up the hard work!!!
Bro...Big Time already at almost 1.5mil 👏 congrats gentlemen.
This has potential to be a super cool project
2:37 lovin the dog shit bottom left. it just proves your down to earth. gotta love it, carry on lads
I like how you show each part and explain how it works. Its really cool!
Watching you fellas drain the moisture from the air tanks had me rolling!!
Hilarious 😂
2:25 haha turd in the back XD
Finally! Was lookin' for this comment 🤣🤣🤣 thought I was the only one who saw!
@@Veggiericebunny I spotted it while I was watching and was like: No way! xD That's Chewies input into the video :D
8:40 Did ya'll just install an air filter wrapped in plastic??
Nah that’s just the clean metal shining
😢😢😢 came to say the same thing, it 100% looks like plastic wrap.
+1 looked like it was still wrapped to me too!
1:18 breaking bad intros be like
17:06 grind it until you find it 🤣
vids on this truck are so fun, im really looking forward to more content on it.
When working on the truck it is not advised to keep the cab half-cocked. Always leave it fallen forward as any failure is going to crush anyone standing underneath. That's the advice from a certified MAN mechanic.
Most american market trucks have support bars you put in place when half-open (not that I saw one here - thought the same as you)
Ya'll are the experts on them though, the only cabovers I get to work on anymore are Pete/Mack garbage trucks or mobile cranes.
It's crazy how far ahead in some areas you guys are/how different the mechanics roles are.
I was hoping they still had the wheel under the cab but it looked dodgy
I was a little nervous the whole time Jerry was standing there.
@@andoletube It didn’t look good, if they had to use a wheel to hold it up previously I would guess there’s no safety stand so I just hope there’s was something out of shot holding it up, wouldn’t like to see the lads get squished.
Yes, always go in full cocked
Man I’m so happy this is a series 😂 Loving every video y’all have put together! BigThings coming for BigTime!
Probably already been said : 16:00 you will feel it “slide” into gear when the revs are matched nicely. But it’s not just the revs that need to be in sync.
It needs to be your:
Motor - Ears
Revs - Hand/Feet
Shifter - Extension of the Arm
Mood - All the Above TOGETHER.
It will all just click at some point and THEN it will just become second nature and a normal natural thing that you’d subconsciously.
As weird as this all sounds for some, it makes perfects sense to the ones who know.
Sick “Big Rig” guys. And thank you for some different yet same foundational content !
🙌🏻
My dad had a Ford Ranger that I used to shift like that. Dad told me I was going to do something to the tranny but I think it just pissed him off that I could do it and he couldn't.
@@Parents_of_Twins if it had a synchro gear box in it, that was him in utter fear I’d say ! Hahaha . Most definitely can be driven and done, the room for error…well there isn’t much of one in comparison .
Soo yeah , probably had a flavour of jealousy in the mix too thinking about it more so hahaha! Pore bugger
18:45 GVWR is not the weight on the scale. Rating is what’s it’s capable of hauling.
Love the bro house b-roll. Feels cozy
God I love this channel already, I've never had a single thought of watching videos about big haulers, didn't even cross my mind. But I'm fully invested in BigTime Bud and I see this truck becoming the mascot of this channel.
4:57 leave me out of this, hooman
Jerry looks like a flight attendant doing the safety message on a flight when he was doing the air brake down 😂
Starting off....the parking brake spring is an emergency back up....the larger parking brake chambers have 2 sections....one overcomes the emergency spring and the other actuates the service brakes by supplying air to the rear portion of the chamber before you get confused troubleshooting and there is air coming out of one of the brake lines every time you apply the brake....Secondly you shouldn't have to pull hard to get into gear even if it's wore out....best way to get a feel for it is use 2 fingers to put firm pressure on the shifter in the gate so you feel the gears just start to kiss eachother.....as you get closer to the actual shift point the vibrations will slow down....use that feeling to guide your throttle....I usually pull into neutral and blip the throttle then apply slight pressure and see if the gear grinding gets slower or faster then roll into the throttle chasing the slower vibrations.....takes about 2 weeks and it'll be second nature...pro tip makes life easier to leave the Jake brake off when you know your going to be shifting alot......finally Cali has some weird laws but being a non dpf truck you cannot get apportioned tags in that state....your best bet is to register it as an rv for personal use which should also get you around needing a cdl.....commercial insurance is it's own nightmare so it'll save you a substantial amount of money there.....I pay 1800 a year for apportioned tags including the 2290 heavy use tax and 73200 dollars a month for commercial insurance for perspective
$73,200 a MONTH for insurance? Holy hell, I hope that's a typo. Is that just your truck, or buisness+truck, multiple trucks?
@@MikeSchinlaub brain thought year fingers said month....roughly 3100 a month my fault
@@aaronkenley725 That's way better. Still crazy that you're paying almost double my yearly income in insurance.
I don't normally interact with videos but I'm loving the big rig content and your guys story after seeing you on donut from the OG days, inspires me to chase my childhood dream of building an old school bus into a toy hauler/camper.
Cant help but notice you've still got the bug screen over the front grill. Wonder if this might contribute to overheating in the warmer climate as its typically meant to keep heat in the engine bay during warmer months.
Seems like you guys are gonna have a huge community for support on this!
1:45 Milk BEFORE cereals? are you kidding?!
i was thinking the same thing 😂