Here's to the failures & victories, the laughter & tears, the lessons learned & the mistakes made, the friends enjoyed & the ones forgotten... 2023 brought us here, & 2024 awaits and even YOU can celebrate what you want MORE of in 2024!! May the new year bring you a path NOT yet stepped on, challenges you CAN work to achieve, and the opportunity to go after your DREAMS!!! Just make sure to have a resolution to get outside your comfort zone & truly ACHIEVE the things you've always wanted! It IS POSSIBLE! I TRULY wish YOU & your family a Happy New Year! THANK YOU for the support throughout 2023, and I can't WAIT to see where 2024 takes us here at Salvage Workshop! Thank you my friends!
Two main things. The fuel issue is on the return line side. When it starts its fine until the return starts backing up, and then there is too much pressure in the system causing it to sit on the governor. Second, when the brakes are stuck to the drum like that, even with them being caged you still have to back the slack adjusters all the way off. Best way is to air them up, release the brakes and then back off the slack adjuster. Then you take a ball peen hammer and hit the inner lip of the brake drum. When it goes from a hollow thump to a ring, the shoes are loose. Then just run the slack adjusters back in until the are snug then back them off half a turn. Will be golden after that.
No oil, how you wake it up vital.. or junk.. oil could be due to drain plug leak.. totally dry.. then air with moisture surface rust thru it all.. wd40 crankcase, light machine oil mix, can buy wd40 by unpressurized gallon.. open to cylinder wd40, light machine oil, with small amount of regular oil.. if had been siezed, every so often refill cyl and turbo spraying up machine oil too.. then vibrate tap once to by vibration cause wd40 penetration farther.. after up to a week, will turn over free, then no fuel or ign enabled, turn over enough same thing, to mix wd40 dissolve surface rust to not hrat up no oiling from lowrr rings to overheat destroy the rings.. just occasional to not burn out starter.. when fast turn no problem, drain all fluids put correct fluids in with slight reg oil on top to improve compression 4 start, should start right up, bypass tank until cleaned..from other source..
I've been a Cummins certified mechanic for 40 years. The issue is in the fuel pump. Send it to area diesel for rebuild. There is nothing wrong with the engine or the rest of the fuel system.
I told him the same thing as you have I also have worked on diesels I couldn't believe he didn't figure it out himself if he does he'll kick himself cause he already had it off an apart lol probably someone else has already been inside it already an it's not together correctly I'd bet
@@krystynamcilroy5837 there is no fuel rack it's not a Detroit diesel it's a Cummins diesel they have a pressure timed fuel pump, the pump only sends fuel to the injector of the cylinder that ready to fire kinda like a distributor sends spark to the sparkplug that needs to fire
Pour either Tranny fluid or Marvel mystery oil into the diesel fuel tank, can, jug etc. If it were my truck I'd add a quart of each oil to 5 gallons of diesel fuel. Both are excellent cleaning additives for the fuel system, IMHO. I'm just a backyard mechanic but I listen & learn from others. At 65+ I'm still trying to learn more!!🔧🔧🤞🙏👍😊. Look forward to seeing you get this beast running properly. It sounds Great! I really hate that you plan to part it out..😭
As a retired mechanical engineer, it warms my heart to see a young guy like you rescuing old iron like this when most people would just send it to the scrap yard. You have an amazing work ethic as demonstrated by the extra effort you made to rake up the ruts in the gravel. Always enjoy your channel!
The age of the truck, it is a Cummins L-10 I worked at the Cummins engine plant in Asheville, NY. In the 8o's I was an engine tester, and we made thousands of engines for International. I may have even tested that engine. Some of those PT [pressure-time] fuel pumps had an electric cut-off solenoid with an override thumb screw. The spool in the pump is stuck. Needs to be rebuilt, fuel is leaking past the seals. Giving you the high RPMs also have the bearings in the turbo replaced if you can get it apart.
Now you know where to look !! I was a British Royal Navy aircraft mechanic used to Lock wiring parts to avoid coming apart in the air, and using precision torque wrenches , but am fascinated by learning about diesels (as I am only 84) I love these videos ...Thanks to all involved... (from Western Australia )
My Father work on heavy equipment his whole life and helped out Lot of companies and truckers when they had brake downs. He was the local guru for heavy equipment. He had very little formal education, but he was one of the smartest men I’ve ever met. I have flown all over the world for work and Still never met his equal in maintenance. My wife and I bought some of the hardest puzzles that we could find and he always got them solved in just a few minutes. He never made a fortune and had to have help in his older years which the family was more than happy to provide. He was an excellent person and was always willing to help folks. He taught me integrity, and how to deal with people in business. He was loved and is so missed. Happy New year to you and yours. Every time I watch your videos it reminds me of him teaching how things work and always having a great attitude.
I've really appreciated your hard work this past year, and before. The fact that you bother to talk us through everything, to bring us along, makes this channel exemplary. Thank you, and I wish you a very Happy New Year.
Not sure if anyone mentioned it, those wheel chocks with the chain are called scotch blocks. the chassis usually has a banjo shaped hole for the chain to drop in while in use. the chain keeps you from skidding over the top of the chock on an extremely hard pull.
I didn't know their name, but I knew the use for the chain... I need to add a way to hook them up to this truck and add a chain to the second one! I appreciate the info!
When he retired, my dad gave me two of those curved wrenches - he said that they were for installing starter motors. One is 9/16 & 3/4, the other is 9/16 & 5/8 both made by Bonney. I used them when I replaced the starter on my 1970 Ford Econoline Van.
hi matt , from watching you start it up and it tries to idle on first start then revs up , i have seen this before on a cummins bigcam 855 , it was caused by a stuck pressure relieve valve on the return to tank line on the engine (it looks like a banjo bolt ) the head of the bolt has a ball bearing forced into its head , you may also find one on the lift pump . the P T setup uses a increased pressure /volume to make more revs , a diesel truck does not have any air metering on the inlet side (you can remove all the inlet pipework and it will not rev any harder so air leaks are not a issue . i hope this helps (a old railroad maintance engineer )worked on bigcam 855 turbo /intercooled (285 to 450 hp )
Most class 8 trucks about the mid 80s were 12 volts as technology advanced and the series/parallel switch proved to be a weak link . Trying to start with less than 3 batteries is a recipe for frustration, one simply doesnt have the capacity for prolonged cranking, on a cummins pt system check your return lineto the tank for flow rate, a restriction can affect it working properly
Matt, firstly, all the very best to you and your family for 2024, secondly, mate so good to see you back in full glory and making excellent quality videos, it’s what you were meant to do. I know it must be extremely disappointing but for me as a viewer I love hearing your thought process regarding problem solving and troubleshooting. Good to have the old Matt back on station, well done young man. Regards from Australia
We have an 06 same situation.Had pump off rebuilt.Was not the issue .The rack was cleaned not the issue.Turned out it was a return line the whole time.Better men than me missed it.Because your's acting same same as mine .Please do return line.Great channel
It's great to hear someone else who has had the same issue! The return line is definitely something I haven't checked, I will make sure to check that! Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
On the fuel tanks, draw means that you can only get about 115gallon out of a 121 gallon tank. The pickup tube doesn't go all the way to the bottom so it doesn't such the crud on the bottom of the tank.
I was yelling at the screen that you had the starter rebuilt but tried to field-fix the pump😂. Get the injection pump done, or try to find a good used one. A lot of people are saying turbo seals (and that's not a terrible guess) but.... imho nah. It's too steady at what is probably max rpm... It's just stuck at full fuel
Rebuild the PT pump, install new air compressor governor and get the brakes broke lose on the passenger side rear and you will have a runner! Ps. Hit the drums with a sledgehammer to get brakes loose.
That 90 at the gear pump is a check valve. It's there so the pump doesn't snap gear pump drives. I find myself screaming at the screen watching you do some of the stuff you do.
I wish I could hear you! Maybe next time scream a bit louder, I could USE the advise! I am not an expert on all the different things I work on, but I'm not afraid to jump in and try to figure things out! Thanks for the support!
It is the fuel pump! I am an Army trained large vehicle Mech. (25.5 Years). I would send it to Area Diesel Service and have them go over it! They do a fantastic job! (I would lay money on the governor shaft be out of spec)! Good luck and let us follow along!
*Kia ora (hello) Matt, I can't answer your question, but others have... But I love what you do, to bring back the old vehicles, machinery etc... I also want to wish you & your family all the best in 2024. See you in your next video 🙂NZ*
You can check with Area diesel but I think that fitting you cleaned out was the fuel return. If it plugs up, the fuel pressure starts to go up which causes the engine to run faster which runs the pump faster which further raises the fuel pressure which causes the engine to go faster which again runs the pump faster increasing the pressure. Maybe you can add a pressure gauge. I think the fitting is supposed to act as a check valve to prevent the fuel returning to the tank when the engine isn't running. It might be as simple as replacing that fitting.
I had an L10 that I remember didn’t want to idle down, and I remember having to hook a tarp strap either on the firewall or down to the frame, to pull on the throttle linkage a little. It seems like it didn’t have a throttle return spring on it like on a carburetor, and that strap kept it from idling up too much. Just a thought. Love your videos!
You have what I thought about also the spring on the throttle linkage, weak, broken or missing. I have had them break or come loose and engine run wide open. Nice old truck, my old truck was parked for 30 years and just started it last year.
I always appreciate your videos and your person. Even though these old machines are unknown to me, being from Europe, I truly enjoy seeing them saved and a second life.
What a way to end the year! I've no doubt you'll figure it out. Thanks for the journey this past year. Can't wait to see where you go in 2024. Happy New Year!
Those L10 motors were perty good . I'm going to say it's in the pump. And fuel lines. I did know what wrench you needed to get that bolt out. I drove them back in the day was a mechanic. Great video.
Thanks for a great 2023. Although an Engineer, I know little of diesel engines, but I love watching the older gear getting brought back to life. Looking forward to a great 2024 now.
The can looking thing on the passenger side that you thought was an air tank is an air dryer I believe. The two gladhand connections on the back of the cab are probably just holders to put your air hoses onto while bobtailing.
That tank is attached to an air drier that is on the inside of the frame, so i think you are right, it's part of the air drier system! For the glad hands, I thought that at first, but the holders have air lines going to them.. I haven't really looked TOO carefully, but you wouldn't think holders would have air lines... IDK!
It’s the idle adjustment on the shaft for the injection pump, my 290 small cam was doing the same thing when I first found it, it was sitting for 30 years.
Matt, As usual, great video and a masters touch when it comes to reviving old iron. You amaze me. I enjoy your videos, number one! My only complaint is the wait for new work.
I like the look of this truck. Looks like a keeper! Send the fuel pump off for a rebuild and I reckon you can fix the rest. Makes a great video. Happy new Year!
Without any doubt, its the fuel pump. Take it off again and send it to Area Diesel Services, if you had done that when you took it off the first time it would be fixed now. If air could make revs like that we would not need diesel. Happy new year to you and all other watchers.
Its so nice to see a young man that actually knows how to work...and work hard. Now a days there's people your age and older that cant find there a$$ with both hands and cant make change for a dollar without a computer screen telling them how much to give you back. Your going to go far in life 💪also great job and thanks for the excellent video 👍
NOW That is a possibility... The fuel leak that I found above the injection pump was a return line, and maybe it being plugged caused the rusty hard line to blow out causing the leak... I'm definitely going to check into this a bit more!
check the return line going back to the tank also the throttle linkage in the pump0 may be stuck but if the return lines from the head are pluged in any way it will run away like that
ALL Diesels ALL OF THEM are open atmosphere induction systems, meaning they dont USE throttle butterfly valves, they rev up purely by varying the amount of diesel fuel delivered through the injectors hence the need for a governor in the pump to prevent run aways, it is NOT a case of it sucking air into the fuel feed pipes that will be causing the overspeed runaways. whatever different manufacturers engines the principle is always the same if the execution is different, I would personally revisit that govenor to check it is operating the counter weights properly, the other avenue of investigation I would take would be check the overfuel returns from the injectors back to the tank, if THEY are blocked the build up of fuel into the injectors will cause it to full send........the fact that it tops out at two and half grand leads me to assume it is a mild partial blockage, if it just kept pumping in diesel without the excess being returned to the tank it would simply keep revving faster and faster till it threw a rod out of the block or the crank snapped.....in fact check the fuel RETURNS first before the ball ache of taking the stater motor and pump off again I wouldnt be at all surprised to find the injectors had more one way ball valves in the top for pressure relief.....hope this helps........I was the guy who gave you the S.U Carb advice a few years back if you recall.
I just resurrected a 1990 kenworth service truck with an l10 Cummins! Great strong motor. Truck was sitting for 10 years. Same problem you had on wide open start. ended up the injectors were seized. I got the PT injectors rebuilt and got the PT fuel pump rebuilt. She runs great now, love the truck! And great video!
I REALLY appreciate your comment! It's good to hear from someone who has actually dealt with the same issue I am dealing with! I will look into the injectors! Glad to hear you like your L10, most people don't seem to like the engine for some reason! I am just forming my opinion as we speak, but the price was right! I'd love to see your service truck!
Yeah! I had 0 knowledge on any L10 Cummins, funny watching your video I went through the same troubleshooting process haha! It ended up being the injection springs inside the injectors were seized so fuel wasn’t being regulated internally so she was just dumping fuel. Rebuilt pump, re timed the injectors after rebuild and she’s great. 700,000 miles and still going very strong! I’ve got pictures of the kenworth I can send over email 👍🏻 if you got any questions let me know, again great video!
Hi Buddy make sure that the return line from the pump to the diesel tank is not blocked or pinched closed. They will Rev up if your return line is restricted
If you ever sort out the Semi, and can get it back to roadworthiness, it would make the ideal tower for your trailers, what with all the power that engine would have, and being made for heavy haulage it would be a fantastic addition to your fleet
Good Morning Matt Salvage and a good and healthy 2024 to you and the family. Thanks for your energy during the video. I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would drive. Hope the next video comes soon.
The cab and frame on that truck doesn't look that bad cosmetically it looks a little rough but I think the truck is saveable like many others here I believe your issues are in the pump good luck and I hope to see this truck on the road some day Happy New Year.
The first truck I ever drove was one of these. 1983 IH S2300. 250 cummins, 9spd. My grandfathers a tomato farmer in California and at 18yo I used to pull a 40ft reefer once a week during harvest season to a buyer about 15mi up the road. Good memories. The truck is still on the property but like this old girl...tired. I moved to Arizona but would love to recover and get it running.
Brilliant filming Matt , and thank you for sharing , still the governor I would think unless there is a electric valve somewhere stuck , can't wait till you find !
Matt over at Diesel Creek seems to have lots of experience starting old abandoned diesel machines with Cummins or Detroit engines in them. I'm sure he could help. Great video in getting this far with that 1995 tractor ! Engine sounds good when running .Lots of useful parts so this gift is gold.👍👍👍
Admire your tenacity for sticking with it until you finally called it “time to haul”. Refreshing to see the respect by raking the gravel work area. I have no doubt you will figure it out! Thanks for sharing!
I like to take starters out and run them for 10 or 15 seconds without load to clean the commutator and brushes before asking it to handle high current. The comms get quite corroded when they sit. She sure cleaned up when the turbo started spinning
Yeah I can see that helping things some, but It took most of a DAY to get the starter removed, and in the process I had to cut the nose off the solenoid... I'm not going through that unless I absolutely HAVE to! Most times getting good connections to the starter does enough for me and the old junk I work on!
I used to work on all kinds of heavy equipment and have done the very same thing your doing now( I kept hollering for you to do this not that) but now that I’m retired I can’t imagine doing this anymore! You remind me of me at your age! Kudos to you.👍
Glad to see your back Erin. Not sure if that's some new equipment or not, but it looks new. I know you guys keep it in immaculate condition. Nice to see some harvest video,s in the winter.
Thanks! I laughed at your comments about family friendly content..We’ve all been there…and thoughts on the starter should not be recorded while in progress.😊
The return line from engine to tank is stopped up its not a pump issue I worked at cummins distributor for 20 years 5 of them in pump shop take return line loose at engine and start it up 😮bet you it will idle
Your videos are awesome I love your attention to detail. One request, bring back Ole Red!!! You were so close to finishing. Last I saw you pulled that sprocket. Love to see the undercarriage finished. Keep up the good work !
The stuck turbo WILL be an issue. When the turbo locked up in my old Chrysler LeBaron, the car lost a TON of power, and wouldn't even go any faster than 30-35 mph. With a new turbo, it got all it's power back.
If I can get the engine idling issue figured out, you're correct, the turbo will need some attenton.... But hopefully NOT until I know how good this engine is!
The fuel pump is your culprit. Air in diesel lines isn't the same as gasoline. It won't make a diesel Rev up. A bad/stuck governor or something in a pump will
At least it can't suck air from somewhere because you can't run a diesel too lean. So it's a fuel metering issue and it's getting too much of it. Running on crankcase fumes through the breather or on oil from via turbo seals just doesn't ring a bell either since it's running at a stable (governed) rpm. How the engine runs sounds like a stuck fuel rack but the excess smoke could be from a leaking injector(s), too. If some cylinders but not all are overfed with fuel it would run too rich on those yet the working ones (with proper fuel metered for engine idle) would still limit the overall revs from going even higher.
Adding Marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the fuel helps to clean injectors. This truck has been around for ages... Ask most diesel mechanics.
Onwards and upwards to you and yours for 2024! Thanks for your amazing persistence and ingenuity, and for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world.
At an hour and 42 minutes in, my subscription wasn't guaranteed. Until I saw you leave the old parking spot cleaner than you found it. You're a man I want to see more of.
What stood out and kept bothering me was one of the first things you noticed but never addressed. Footage time 40:49. Cable linkage to throttle rod. The throttle rod is moving but not moving the cable that is running through the end of it… like it is missing stops on the cable that would pull and release as the rod moves up and down.
That cable linkage to the throttle is a way to set the idle at a certain RPM above idle.. you pull a knob in the cab and it pulls on the throttle linkage and can hold that linkage at whatever rpm you choose... in this truck that would have been used as a High Idle for warming the engine up after starting in cold weather... in this case we know this was not causing us issues for exactly what you noticed, the linkage wasn't moving with the actual throttle linkage... that cable will only move when I pull the knob in the cab, and when it's pulled it will pull up on the throttle linkage increasing the RPM... good question!
Hi Matt, hope you're keeping well. Once again full marks for methodical persistence. We all know you'll crack the code in the end, it's just a matter of time and patience. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. PS. Happy New Year to you and your family.
I thought these old Cummins engines run the rack and fuel injectors under the valve cover. The fuel pump you took apart should only be for high pressure fuel and fuel delivery is attached to the injectors under the valve cover. I bet the rack is rusted stuck. I have seen rust collect under the valve covers while the bottom end is perfectly fine. It's like condensation gets in and collects at the top only.
If you love bits and pieces, you should see how massive my stash REALLY is! I spend a LOT of time organizing all my parts, pieces, hardware, etc.... the way I look at it is, If I can't find it when I need it, it's NOT worth owning! I appreciate the support Dave! It means a lot!
There's a knob on the left hand side on some trucks that govern the motor when it's in idle. Turn left to idle up and write to the idle down if I'm not mistaken.
I would forgot the air leak idea. It is not like gasoline engines that a false air intake can cause the engine to run lean and speed. Diesels to not have throttle, so it HAS to be excess fuel entering the chamber. I would bet on leaking injectors or the high pressure return line. Leaking injectors could explain why it is smoking and slowly increasing the speed. The excessive fuel can stay in the chamber to the next cycle. Would explain why it started to burn more clear when the turbo kicked back (more oxygen to burn the excessive fuel). You can check if the pump has some easy timing adjust too... But I would not open the pump again until check those causes. The pump looks fine. Another way less probably issue would be engine oil passing by stuck oil rings, but I would not bet on it. Good luck!
If something is sticking or fouled up from the very old diesel fuel I'd dump some Transmission fluid into the fuel tanks which will help tremendously to clean up the whole fuel system. I've seen this approach help a lot. Matt @dieselcreek does as well as others with ole diesels that have been sitting for ages. I'd suggest you even add tranny fluid (5 gallon can) to your new diesel fuel and start the truck so it gets into the fuel system ASAP to start working. A quart or two should help a lot. You could also use, and I kid you not, Marvel mystery oil! I also agree with the diesel mechanics as the problem is the injection pump. My idea saves you from having to pull and rebuild the injection pump, if it starts working. This can also help clean up injectors. Good luck 🤞🔧🔧🤞👍🙏. Great video.
The fact that it starts and it's running even so,says that it is a diesel pump thema..Better send them all (diesel pump,injectors and turbo ) for a service..You have a supposedly good running engine, the problem with the gears is coming from the air pressure side...If you have not air built you have no clutch and brakes..So this is your second step AFTER the diesel line service..This can be a very nice truck for your needs..
Happy New Year young man. This ole girl has been a struggle, my money is on the pump, bet it’s not working properly, but I know next to nothing on pumps, so it’s a guess on my part. Thanks for the great videos thru out the year sir, appreciate your efforts.
A old freight hauler trick was to pinch off the return line to get more speed out of those old Cummins. We, I mean they would drill a hole through a pair of vice grips handle and the release tang . Then attach a paracord through the handle and lock release on the vice grips and tie a couple nots so when you pulled the cord it would pop off the restricted return line. When the line was partially pinched with the grips if would gradually build up rail pressure and and not over rev the engine .We then would pass the cord up through the drivers door and let her rip. As a safety note this was done outside city limits and traffic . When you got into traffic or the Po Po put the flashing lights on, you just yanked on the paracord and the grips would pop of and the engine would run as normal!
Here's to the failures & victories, the laughter & tears, the lessons learned & the mistakes made, the friends enjoyed & the ones forgotten... 2023 brought us here, & 2024 awaits and even YOU can celebrate what you want MORE of in 2024!!
May the new year bring you a path NOT yet stepped on, challenges you CAN work to achieve, and the opportunity to go after your DREAMS!!! Just make sure to have a resolution to get outside your comfort zone & truly ACHIEVE the things you've always wanted!
It IS POSSIBLE!
I TRULY wish YOU & your family a Happy New Year! THANK YOU for the support throughout 2023, and I can't WAIT to see where 2024 takes us here at Salvage Workshop!
Thank you my friends!
Love it! 60 years old and just learning how to MIG weld..... Just finished building a hitch to tow a trailer behind my motorcycle!
Two main things.
The fuel issue is on the return line side. When it starts its fine until the return starts backing up, and then there is too much pressure in the system causing it to sit on the governor.
Second, when the brakes are stuck to the drum like that, even with them being caged you still have to back the slack adjusters all the way off. Best way is to air them up, release the brakes and then back off the slack adjuster. Then you take a ball peen hammer and hit the inner lip of the brake drum. When it goes from a hollow thump to a ring, the shoes are loose. Then just run the slack adjusters back in until the are snug then back them off half a turn. Will be golden after that.
Turbo, spray upwards close to turbo, gravity, wd40 only went down to dissolve corrosion..
No oil, how you wake it up vital.. or junk.. oil could be due to drain plug leak.. totally dry.. then air with moisture surface rust thru it all.. wd40 crankcase, light machine oil mix, can buy wd40 by unpressurized gallon.. open to cylinder wd40, light machine oil, with small amount of regular oil.. if had been siezed, every so often refill cyl and turbo spraying up machine oil too.. then vibrate tap once to by vibration cause wd40 penetration farther.. after up to a week, will turn over free, then no fuel or ign enabled, turn over enough same thing, to mix wd40 dissolve surface rust to not hrat up no oiling from lowrr rings to overheat destroy the rings.. just occasional to not burn out starter.. when fast turn no problem, drain all fluids put correct fluids in with slight reg oil on top to improve compression 4 start, should start right up, bypass tank until cleaned..from other source..
All allows stuck rings to decorrode without damage.. be back as good as the day parked..
The fact that you cleaned up and raked the parking spot speaks volumes to your character. Well done.
Just seemed like the right thing to do.
@@SalvageWorkshop The line going into the turbo is its oil feed. Take that line loose and put oil down there to hopefully loosen the turbo 😊
@@SalvageWorkshopYou're a nice guy. You care. 👍👍
I was thinking the exact same thing. What a great person!
@@carlbernard4197it freed itself up. Anyway make your own comment. I hate when people hijack someone else's comment.
I've been a Cummins certified mechanic for 40 years. The issue is in the fuel pump. Send it to area diesel for rebuild. There is nothing wrong with the engine or the rest of the fuel system.
I told him the same thing as you have I also have worked on diesels I couldn't believe he didn't figure it out himself if he does he'll kick himself cause he already had it off an apart lol probably someone else has already been inside it already an it's not together correctly I'd bet
Most likely the fuel rack is stuck full open
L10??
Btw. You’ve been gainin some weight since I saw you last…
@@krystynamcilroy5837 there is no fuel rack it's not a Detroit diesel it's a Cummins diesel they have a pressure timed fuel pump, the pump only sends fuel to the injector of the cylinder that ready to fire kinda like a distributor sends spark to the sparkplug that needs to fire
Pour either Tranny fluid or Marvel mystery oil into the diesel fuel tank, can, jug etc. If it were my truck I'd add a quart of each oil to 5 gallons of diesel fuel. Both are excellent cleaning additives for the fuel system, IMHO. I'm just a backyard mechanic but I listen & learn from others. At 65+ I'm still trying to learn more!!🔧🔧🤞🙏👍😊. Look forward to seeing you get this beast running properly. It sounds Great! I really hate that you plan to part it out..😭
As a retired mechanical engineer, it warms my heart to see a young guy like you rescuing old iron like this when most people would just send it to the scrap yard. You have an amazing work ethic as demonstrated by the extra effort you made to rake up the ruts in the gravel. Always enjoy your channel!
The age of the truck, it is a Cummins L-10 I worked at the Cummins engine plant in Asheville, NY. In the 8o's
I was an engine tester, and we made thousands of engines for International. I may have even tested that engine.
Some of those PT [pressure-time] fuel pumps had an electric cut-off solenoid with an override thumb screw.
The spool in the pump is stuck. Needs to be rebuilt, fuel is leaking past the seals. Giving you the high RPMs
also have the bearings in the turbo replaced if you can get it apart.
That's cool! Thanks for the comment and support! I appreciate it!
@@SalvageWorkshop Your welcome. Hope you get it running. They are a good, strong engine.
I know enough about diesel engines to know that sucking air (intake air) was not the problem...
@@tomp538he is not talking about intake air... if you were mechanic you would understand it...
Now you know where to look !! I was a British Royal Navy aircraft mechanic used to Lock wiring parts to avoid coming apart in the air, and using precision torque wrenches , but am fascinated by learning about diesels (as I am only 84) I love these videos ...Thanks to all involved... (from Western Australia )
My Father work on heavy equipment his whole life and helped out Lot of companies and truckers when they had brake downs. He was the local guru for heavy equipment. He had very little formal education, but he was one of the smartest men I’ve ever met. I have flown all over the world for work and Still never met his equal in maintenance. My wife and I bought some of the hardest puzzles that we could find and he always got them solved in just a few minutes. He never made a fortune and had to have help in his older years which the family was more than happy to provide. He was an excellent person and was always willing to help folks. He taught me integrity, and how to deal with people in business. He was loved and is so missed. Happy New year to you and yours. Every time I watch your videos it reminds me of him teaching how things work and always having a great attitude.
😊😊😊
God rest your father soul bro .
Easy trick for the voltage I learned from another channel, look at the voltmeter. If it's 0-16V, it's a 12V system, if it's 0-30V it's a 24V system.
Ya know, that is a great thing to look at, never really paid attention to that! Thanks for the tip! I appreciate it!
Another easy way is by pulling a light bulb, for instance a headlight, and check the value on it.
I know finally the turbo spin when hear it whistle.huge realize 😂😂
It says a lot about you, that you fixed the ruts caused by winching the truck. Good man!
I've really appreciated your hard work this past year, and before. The fact that you bother to talk us through everything, to bring us along, makes this channel exemplary. Thank you, and I wish you a very Happy New Year.
It has been and will continue to be MY Pleasure! Thanks for the support, it means the world!
Not sure if anyone mentioned it, those wheel chocks with the chain are called scotch blocks. the chassis usually has a banjo shaped hole for the chain to drop in while in use. the chain keeps you from skidding over the top of the chock on an extremely hard pull.
VERY critical tip you just gave! Thanks
I didn't know their name, but I knew the use for the chain... I need to add a way to hook them up to this truck and add a chain to the second one! I appreciate the info!
Good luck getting it back in working order take care and God bless all of you at salvage work shop😊
When he retired, my dad gave me two of those curved wrenches - he said that they were for installing starter motors. One is 9/16 & 3/4, the other is 9/16 & 5/8 both made by Bonney. I used them when I replaced the starter on my 1970 Ford Econoline Van.
hi matt , from watching you start it up and it tries to idle on first start then revs up , i have seen this before on a cummins bigcam 855 , it was caused by a stuck pressure relieve valve on the return to tank line on the engine (it looks like a banjo bolt ) the head of the bolt has a ball bearing forced into its head , you may also find one on the lift pump .
the P T setup uses a increased pressure /volume to make more revs ,
a diesel truck does not have any air metering on the inlet side (you can remove all the inlet pipework and it will not rev any harder so air leaks are not a issue .
i hope this helps (a old railroad maintance engineer )worked on bigcam 855 turbo /intercooled (285 to 450 hp )
you are literaly the only person Ive seen who does recoverys of equipment and actualy cleans up after them self bravo mate
Most class 8 trucks about the mid 80s were 12 volts as technology advanced and the series/parallel switch proved to be a weak link . Trying to start with less than 3 batteries is a recipe for frustration, one simply doesnt have the capacity for prolonged cranking, on a cummins pt system check your return lineto the tank for flow rate, a restriction can affect it working properly
Matt, firstly, all the very best to you and your family for 2024, secondly, mate so good to see you back in full glory and making excellent quality videos, it’s what you were meant to do. I know it must be extremely disappointing but for me as a viewer I love hearing your thought process regarding problem solving and troubleshooting. Good to have the old Matt back on station, well done young man. Regards from Australia
We have an 06 same situation.Had pump off rebuilt.Was not the issue .The rack was cleaned not the issue.Turned out it was a return line the whole time.Better men than me missed it.Because your's acting same same as mine .Please do return line.Great channel
It's great to hear someone else who has had the same issue! The return line is definitely something I haven't checked, I will make sure to check that! Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
On the fuel tanks, draw means that you can only get about 115gallon out of a 121 gallon tank. The pickup tube doesn't go all the way to the bottom so it doesn't such the crud on the bottom of the tank.
That makes perfect sense! Thanks for letting me know!
Hey you did get it running just hang on to it for parts and the Cummins engine it runs good 🤠👍......
Who got the better deal? We, the viewers, again got a gem of a salvage episode.
Happy new year and may the Salvage brothers have a rocking year
LOL... Glad to hear you got a good deal on this! Lot's more to come in 2024!
Good man to clean up the parking spot!!
I was yelling at the screen that you had the starter rebuilt but tried to field-fix the pump😂. Get the injection pump done, or try to find a good used one. A lot of people are saying turbo seals (and that's not a terrible guess) but.... imho nah. It's too steady at what is probably max rpm... It's just stuck at full fuel
Rebuild the PT pump, install new air compressor governor and get the brakes broke lose on the passenger side rear and you will have a runner! Ps. Hit the drums with a sledgehammer to get brakes loose.
That 90 at the gear pump is a check valve. It's there so the pump doesn't snap gear pump drives. I find myself screaming at the screen watching you do some of the stuff you do.
Im glad Im not the only one!
I wish I could hear you! Maybe next time scream a bit louder, I could USE the advise! I am not an expert on all the different things I work on, but I'm not afraid to jump in and try to figure things out! Thanks for the support!
I threw a rock at you but somehow it missed you.. I'm in MN 😅.
@@mikesmith8952 Next time find a bigger rock!
It is the fuel pump! I am an Army trained large vehicle Mech. (25.5 Years). I would send it to Area Diesel Service and have them go over it! They do a fantastic job! (I would lay money on the governor shaft be out of spec)! Good luck and let us follow along!
*Kia ora (hello) Matt, I can't answer your question, but others have... But I love what you do, to bring back the old vehicles, machinery etc... I also want to wish you & your family all the best in 2024. See you in your next video 🙂NZ*
Thank you my friend! I appreciate the support and wish you a great 2024 as well!
You can check with Area diesel but I think that fitting you cleaned out was the fuel return. If it plugs up, the fuel pressure starts to go up which causes the engine to run faster which runs the pump faster which further raises the fuel pressure which causes the engine to go faster which again runs the pump faster increasing the pressure. Maybe you can add a pressure gauge. I think the fitting is supposed to act as a check valve to prevent the fuel returning to the tank when the engine isn't running. It might be as simple as replacing that fitting.
Sounds logical and matches the observations. Another person reacted "if it's a runaway, it will not react to turning off the ignition key".
I reckon it's on backwards
I think if it was sucking oil from turbo it would not shut off as easy. My thoughts go to the return line plugged no ware for the extra fuel to go.
My thoughts the same....
I think that return valve is backwards and is then over fuelling. That would explain why it builds up after seeming to idle on first start.
That or the return line is plugged somewhere... good thought!
I wonder if the turbo is pissing oil into the inlet
I had an L10 that I remember didn’t want to idle down, and I remember having to hook a tarp strap either on the firewall or down to the frame, to pull on the throttle linkage a little. It seems like it didn’t have a throttle return spring on it like on a carburetor, and that strap kept it from idling up too much. Just a thought. Love your videos!
You have what I thought about also the spring on the throttle linkage, weak, broken or missing. I have had them break or come loose and engine run wide open. Nice old truck, my old truck was parked for 30 years and just started it last year.
I always appreciate your videos and your person. Even though these old machines are unknown to me, being from Europe, I truly enjoy seeing them saved and a second life.
What a way to end the year! I've no doubt you'll figure it out. Thanks for the journey this past year. Can't wait to see where you go in 2024. Happy New Year!
You did a great job getting it to start please keep us informed on the progress
Those L10 motors were perty good . I'm going to say it's in the pump. And fuel lines. I did know what wrench you needed to get that bolt out. I drove them back in the day was a mechanic. Great video.
Thanks for a great 2023. Although an Engineer, I know little of diesel engines, but I love watching the older gear getting brought back to life. Looking forward to a great 2024 now.
The can looking thing on the passenger side that you thought was an air tank is an air dryer I believe. The two gladhand connections on the back of the cab are probably just holders to put your air hoses onto while bobtailing.
That tank is attached to an air drier that is on the inside of the frame, so i think you are right, it's part of the air drier system! For the glad hands, I thought that at first, but the holders have air lines going to them.. I haven't really looked TOO carefully, but you wouldn't think holders would have air lines... IDK!
Cool! Possibly they used glad hands on both ends of the air lines? IDK either. I’m not a mechanic, I’ve just been driving commercial since 1995.
The glad hands on the back were for pulling a trailer with air brakes.
It’s the idle adjustment on the shaft for the injection pump, my 290 small cam was doing the same thing when I first found it, it was sitting for 30 years.
Matt, As usual, great video and a masters touch when it comes to reviving old iron. You amaze me. I enjoy your videos, number one! My only complaint is the wait for new work.
I like the look of this truck. Looks like a keeper! Send the fuel pump off for a rebuild and I reckon you can fix the rest. Makes a great video. Happy new Year!
Without any doubt, its the fuel pump. Take it off again and send it to Area Diesel Services, if you had done that when you took it off the first time it would be fixed now. If air could make revs like that we would not need diesel. Happy new year to you and all other watchers.
I'll guess that the rear brakes are rusted to the brake drums. A BFH usually helps to free them up, usually. Don't brake anything else trying 💪💪👍😊💯
Had to do that plenty of times because living up north here. Things would freeze up and so time for a BFH for the home run 😅😅😅😅😅
Its so nice to see a young man that actually knows how to work...and work hard. Now a days there's people your age and older that cant find there a$$ with both hands and cant make change for a dollar without a computer screen telling them how much to give you back. Your going to go far in life 💪also great job and thanks for the excellent video 👍
Heck yes! A truck! Can't wait to see how things go from here!
The return line might be plugged. Remove the #8 line from the fuel drain manifold and run it into a bucket. See how it runs then
NOW That is a possibility... The fuel leak that I found above the injection pump was a return line, and maybe it being plugged caused the rusty hard line to blow out causing the leak... I'm definitely going to check into this a bit more!
I place money on it being that return ballvalve being backwards@@SalvageWorkshop
Good job you will find the leak
Very good job, bro! 👍
Very good old American truck! You must restore him!
Good luck, man! 👍
Respect from the Russia! 👏🔥❗👍
I am glad younger guys are getting old trucks restored and running
check the return line going back to the tank also the throttle linkage in the pump0 may be stuck but if the return lines from the head are pluged in any way it will run away like that
I sure love these old IH trucks. I really like the DT engines though although it is probably just because I know them...
ALL Diesels ALL OF THEM are open atmosphere induction systems, meaning they dont USE throttle butterfly valves, they rev up purely by varying the amount of diesel fuel delivered through the injectors hence the need for a governor in the pump to prevent run aways, it is NOT a case of it sucking air into the fuel feed pipes that will be causing the overspeed runaways. whatever different manufacturers engines the principle is always the same if the execution is different, I would personally revisit that govenor to check it is operating the counter weights properly, the other avenue of investigation I would take would be check the overfuel returns from the injectors back to the tank, if THEY are blocked the build up of fuel into the injectors will cause it to full send........the fact that it tops out at two and half grand leads me to assume it is a mild partial blockage, if it just kept pumping in diesel without the excess being returned to the tank it would simply keep revving faster and faster till it threw a rod out of the block or the crank snapped.....in fact check the fuel RETURNS first before the ball ache of taking the stater motor and pump off again I wouldnt be at all surprised to find the injectors had more one way ball valves in the top for pressure relief.....hope this helps........I was the guy who gave you the S.U Carb advice a few years back if you recall.
I just resurrected a 1990 kenworth service truck with an l10 Cummins! Great strong motor. Truck was sitting for 10 years. Same problem you had on wide open start. ended up the injectors were seized. I got the PT injectors rebuilt and got the PT fuel pump rebuilt. She runs great now, love the truck! And great video!
I REALLY appreciate your comment! It's good to hear from someone who has actually dealt with the same issue I am dealing with! I will look into the injectors! Glad to hear you like your L10, most people don't seem to like the engine for some reason! I am just forming my opinion as we speak, but the price was right! I'd love to see your service truck!
Yeah! I had 0 knowledge on any L10 Cummins, funny watching your video I went through the same troubleshooting process haha! It ended up being the injection springs inside the injectors were seized so fuel wasn’t being regulated internally so she was just dumping fuel.
Rebuilt pump, re timed the injectors after rebuild and she’s great. 700,000 miles and still going very strong!
I’ve got pictures of the kenworth I can send over email 👍🏻 if you got any questions let me know, again great video!
Hi Buddy make sure that the return line from the pump to the diesel tank is not blocked or pinched closed. They will Rev up if your return line is restricted
That is a great suggestion... and will be the FIRST thing I look into! Thanks for the thought!
That turbo sounds bad ass..especially when you shut it down..oh my goodness that whistle..WOO..they don't make them like that anymore
Could it be really simple like a throttle linkage problem? Doesn't hurt to ask.
Possibly... I did spend some time in the video messing with the throttle linkage... it's worth another look though!
Check the fuel rack assembly under the valve cover
If you ever sort out the Semi, and can get it back to roadworthiness, it would make the ideal tower for your trailers, what with all the power that engine would have, and being made for heavy haulage it would be a fantastic addition to your fleet
I agree! I would love (as in give my right one) to have a tractor like this to haul my boat.
Great job getting it going it's hard to believe how easy it started after all these years 👍🏻
Its 100% in the pump even if its sucking air that will not cause that as long as the throttel linkage is returning
Thanks!
Thank you my friend!
Good Morning Matt Salvage and a good and healthy 2024 to you and the family. Thanks for your energy during the video. I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would drive. Hope the next video comes soon.
Fuel rack is stuck, take the valve cover off and get working the rack back and forth until free
The cab and frame on that truck doesn't look that bad cosmetically it looks a little rough but I think the truck is saveable like many others here I believe your issues are in the pump good luck and I hope to see this truck on the road some day Happy New Year.
The first truck I ever drove was one of these. 1983 IH S2300. 250 cummins, 9spd. My grandfathers a tomato farmer in California and at 18yo I used to pull a 40ft reefer once a week during harvest season to a buyer about 15mi up the road. Good memories. The truck is still on the property but like this old girl...tired. I moved to Arizona but would love to recover and get it running.
Brilliant filming Matt , and thank you for sharing , still the governor I would think unless there is a electric valve somewhere stuck , can't wait till you find !
Matt over at Diesel Creek seems to have lots of experience starting old abandoned diesel machines with Cummins or Detroit engines in them. I'm sure he could help. Great video in getting this far with that 1995 tractor ! Engine sounds good when running .Lots of useful parts so this gift is gold.👍👍👍
Happy new year!
Thank you for great entertainment all of last year- hoping for lots more in the year to come.
Thank you my friend! Happy new year to you as well! Lot's more to come!
Admire your tenacity for sticking with it until you finally called it “time to haul”. Refreshing to see the respect by raking the gravel work area. I have no doubt you will figure it out! Thanks for sharing!
I like to take starters out and run them for 10 or 15 seconds without load to clean the commutator and brushes before asking it to handle high current. The comms get quite corroded when they sit. She sure cleaned up when the turbo started spinning
Yeah I can see that helping things some, but It took most of a DAY to get the starter removed, and in the process I had to cut the nose off the solenoid... I'm not going through that unless I absolutely HAVE to! Most times getting good connections to the starter does enough for me and the old junk I work on!
I used to work on all kinds of heavy equipment and have done the very same thing your doing now( I kept hollering for you to do this not that) but now that I’m retired I can’t imagine doing this anymore! You remind me of me at your age! Kudos to you.👍
Thats a good eng. L10 cummins. Great runners
Glad to see your back Erin. Not sure if that's some new equipment or not, but it looks new. I know you guys keep it in immaculate condition. Nice to see some harvest video,s in the winter.
Recondition this one, they were a good tractor and good for pulling a lowboy.
Thanks! I laughed at your comments about family friendly content..We’ve all been there…and thoughts on the starter should not be recorded while in progress.😊
Love hearing a turbo spool up and down that was awesome, happy new year
Me too, and this one sounds GREAT!
The return line from engine to tank is stopped up its not a pump issue I worked at cummins distributor for 20 years 5 of them in pump shop take return line loose at engine and start it up 😮bet you it will idle
What a blessing, brother! Even found the key! Good on you, man! Good channel good content. Happy new year.
You really need to buy some lottery tickets as luck is shining down on you big time!
Your videos are awesome I love your attention to detail. One request, bring back Ole Red!!! You were so close to finishing. Last I saw you pulled that sprocket. Love to see the undercarriage finished. Keep up the good work !
The stuck turbo WILL be an issue.
When the turbo locked up in my old Chrysler LeBaron, the car lost a TON of power, and wouldn't even go any faster than 30-35 mph.
With a new turbo, it got all it's power back.
If I can get the engine idling issue figured out, you're correct, the turbo will need some attenton.... But hopefully NOT until I know how good this engine is!
Thank you for using your words in your restoration videos. I really appreciate it.
The fuel pump is your culprit. Air in diesel lines isn't the same as gasoline. It won't make a diesel Rev up. A bad/stuck governor or something in a pump will
At least it can't suck air from somewhere because you can't run a diesel too lean. So it's a fuel metering issue and it's getting too much of it. Running on crankcase fumes through the breather or on oil from via turbo seals just doesn't ring a bell either since it's running at a stable (governed) rpm.
How the engine runs sounds like a stuck fuel rack but the excess smoke could be from a leaking injector(s), too. If some cylinders but not all are overfed with fuel it would run too rich on those yet the working ones (with proper fuel metered for engine idle) would still limit the overall revs from going even higher.
The smoke cleared up. (I know virtually nothing.)
Adding Marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the fuel helps to clean injectors. This truck has been around for ages... Ask most diesel mechanics.
It can also be the fuel rack at the valve under that huge flat top cover on the motor
Onwards and upwards to you and yours for 2024! Thanks for your amazing persistence and ingenuity, and for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world.
At an hour and 42 minutes in, my subscription wasn't guaranteed. Until I saw you leave the old parking spot cleaner than you found it. You're a man I want to see more of.
What stood out and kept bothering me was one of the first things you noticed but never addressed. Footage time 40:49. Cable linkage to throttle rod. The throttle rod is moving but not moving the cable that is running through the end of it… like it is missing stops on the cable that would pull and release as the rod moves up and down.
That cable linkage to the throttle is a way to set the idle at a certain RPM above idle.. you pull a knob in the cab and it pulls on the throttle linkage and can hold that linkage at whatever rpm you choose... in this truck that would have been used as a High Idle for warming the engine up after starting in cold weather... in this case we know this was not causing us issues for exactly what you noticed, the linkage wasn't moving with the actual throttle linkage... that cable will only move when I pull the knob in the cab, and when it's pulled it will pull up on the throttle linkage increasing the RPM... good question!
Hi Matt, hope you're keeping well. Once again full marks for methodical persistence. We all know you'll crack the code in the end, it's just a matter of time and patience. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. PS. Happy New Year to you and your family.
I thought these old Cummins engines run the rack and fuel injectors under the valve cover. The fuel pump you took apart should only be for high pressure fuel and fuel delivery is attached to the injectors under the valve cover. I bet the rack is rusted stuck. I have seen rust collect under the valve covers while the bottom end is perfectly fine. It's like condensation gets in and collects at the top only.
rtght
Matt
I love your channel, you have your recoveries down pat. I’m a parts person and just love your stash of bits and pieces.
If you love bits and pieces, you should see how massive my stash REALLY is!
I spend a LOT of time organizing all my parts, pieces, hardware, etc.... the way I look at it is, If I can't find it when I need it, it's NOT worth owning!
I appreciate the support Dave! It means a lot!
There's a knob on the left hand side on some trucks that govern the motor when it's in idle. Turn left to idle up and write to the idle down if I'm not mistaken.
Good to see you again! Happy New Year my friend!
I would forgot the air leak idea. It is not like gasoline engines that a false air intake can cause the engine to run lean and speed. Diesels to not have throttle, so it HAS to be excess fuel entering the chamber. I would bet on leaking injectors or the high pressure return line.
Leaking injectors could explain why it is smoking and slowly increasing the speed. The excessive fuel can stay in the chamber to the next cycle. Would explain why it started to burn more clear when the turbo kicked back (more oxygen to burn the excessive fuel).
You can check if the pump has some easy timing adjust too...
But I would not open the pump again until check those causes. The pump looks fine.
Another way less probably issue would be engine oil passing by stuck oil rings, but I would not bet on it.
Good luck!
I can give you no advice as I'm not a diesel mechanic. I know you will get it figured out as you always do. Happy New Year Matt.
Amazing footage!! You have the PATIENCE of Job!! Happy 2024!! Thanks for the great content, too!!
I have no clue what it could be. Love your channel but everything that you do. Hope you and your family have a very safe and Happy New Year!
Like your attitude, step by step and prioritize and evaluate/ repeat 👍🏼
If something is sticking or fouled up from the very old diesel fuel I'd dump some Transmission fluid into the fuel tanks which will help tremendously to clean up the whole fuel system. I've seen this approach help a lot. Matt @dieselcreek does as well as others with ole diesels that have been sitting for ages. I'd suggest you even add tranny fluid (5 gallon can) to your new diesel fuel and start the truck so it gets into the fuel system ASAP to start working. A quart or two should help a lot. You could also use, and I kid you not, Marvel mystery oil! I also agree with the diesel mechanics as the problem is the injection pump. My idea saves you from having to pull and rebuild the injection pump, if it starts working. This can also help clean up injectors. Good luck 🤞🔧🔧🤞👍🙏. Great video.
Looking forward to watching and wanting to wish you and all your family a very happy New Year from me and my family
The fact that it starts and it's running even so,says that it is a diesel pump thema..Better send them all (diesel pump,injectors and turbo ) for a service..You have a supposedly good running engine, the problem with the gears is coming from the air pressure side...If you have not air built you have no clutch and brakes..So this is your second step AFTER the diesel line service..This can be a very nice truck for your needs..
Happy New Year young man. This ole girl has been a struggle, my money is on the pump, bet it’s not working properly, but I know next to nothing on pumps, so it’s a guess on my part. Thanks for the great videos thru out the year sir, appreciate your efforts.
A old freight hauler trick was to pinch off the return line to get more speed out of those old Cummins. We, I mean they would drill a hole through a pair of vice grips handle and the release tang . Then attach a paracord through the handle and lock release on the vice grips and tie a couple nots so when you pulled the cord it would pop off the restricted return line. When the line was partially pinched with the grips if would gradually build up rail pressure and and not over rev the engine .We then would pass the cord up through the drivers door and let her rip.
As a safety note this was done outside city limits and traffic . When you got into traffic or the Po Po put the flashing lights on, you just yanked on the paracord and the grips would pop of and the engine would run as normal!