I made you two of your cables. Straight forward. When I connected, I got all reds and an orange and never reverted to green. As I was disconnecting the new cable, the lights remain illuminated even after I disconnected the black- ground wire. It’s either a wire problem or a Lynx problem. I tried the same test with the other cable I made and same result with the black disconnected. Thoughts?
I have the same issue. It seems that once it goes to an error state it remains there. If I power off and on again, it starts green to me. Also seems to switch to red once a significant load is used, and stays in that state, all red :/ Did you get a solution to this at the end?
Great vid. I want to make on of these for my 48 volt system. Do you have a preferred item for a 48v to 5v step down adapter? I have done a search on amazon, however the adapters I have seen all are to large to fit inside the distributer when the cover is on.
We're currently working on sourcing a more universal 12~60v -> 5v adapter that will fit inside the case. It's crazy, for some reason, stepping down from 60v to 5v and .5 amps is not a common use case :-)
These are more common than you would think. You can thank the e-bike market for that Mostly used for usb charging from e-bikes or golf carts (48-72v is not uncommon now). Although a large majority of them are larger, there are a few very small ones (ie 5w). although something with wide range input for something truly universal (12-60v) is less common (I.e. asin B0CDGZYW6Y)
@SotaSolar Great video, Thank you for sharing! I think would feel a little better if it included some overcurrent protection (I.e. a small inline 1A leaded fuse with heat shrink in series with +12V input) in series with the cheap DC-DC buck converter. In case it shorts Ior those thin input wires get damaged (ie from abrasion in mobile application), it’s wired directly to the input bus bars with a lot more power behind them that could certainly burn the input wiring or dc-dc PCB). Also to take it a step further, a 5-6v tvs or zener across the output to protect the $200 lynx distributor from over voltage in the cheap dc-dc converter fails shorted input to output. it is a great solution, but I think that dc-dc that marginally has enough power to run the lynx is probably the weakest point in the system. Shame on victron for not implementing this on the PCB of the distributor! Especially since this is marketed as a standalone device. (It would have been so easy since it’s already wired to both bus bars). I considered the lynx shunt, but the general consensus seems to be the smart shunt is better and more reliable
That's a great point we'll look into it before producing them at any scale. We can say that we've had one failure, it was on Shawn's RV actually. A 12v step down was accidentally installed on a 24v system. It worked for a while, then stopped. No damage done, installed the updated 12-36v->5v step down with no issues.
Excellent video and instructions. Just a pointer. I made mine up and it didn’t work. Found out that one end of the phone cable was black on pin 1 and Yellow on pin 4 and the other end was Yellow on pin 1 and Black on pin 4. Just to warn anyone that you can still use either end but Pin 1 has to be the positive off the 5v and pin 4 needs to be the negative. Luckily mine works fine and it didn’t do any damage. You can work out the pins by having the connector in front of you and the clip to the back and they are pins 1 to 4 left to right.
It is not a RJ11. It’s a RJ9/RJ10/RJ22. RJ11 is too big to fit into the lynx. I lost my cable and I made one out of a brand new RJ11 and it doesn’t work. I am now going to change my end to a RJ10 so it will fit. Don’t buy a RJ11 cable.
I made you two of your cables. Straight forward. When I connected, I got all reds and an orange and never reverted to green. As I was disconnecting the new cable, the lights remain illuminated even after I disconnected the black- ground wire. It’s either a wire problem or a Lynx problem. I tried the same test with the other cable I made and same result with the black disconnected. Thoughts?
I’d verify the voltage out from the adapter as well as polarity.
@@sotasolar thanks for the feedback
I have the same issue. It seems that once it goes to an error state it remains there. If I power off and on again, it starts green to me. Also seems to switch to red once a significant load is used, and stays in that state, all red :/ Did you get a solution to this at the end?
Great vid. I want to make on of these for my 48 volt system. Do you have a preferred item for a 48v to 5v step down adapter? I have done a search on amazon, however the adapters I have seen all are to large to fit inside the distributer when the cover is on.
We're currently working on sourcing a more universal 12~60v -> 5v adapter that will fit inside the case. It's crazy, for some reason, stepping down from 60v to 5v and .5 amps is not a common use case :-)
AMSRU-7805JZ
These are more common than you would think. You can thank the e-bike market for that Mostly used for usb charging from e-bikes or golf carts (48-72v is not uncommon now). Although a large majority of them are larger, there are a few very small ones (ie 5w). although something with wide range input for something truly universal (12-60v) is less common (I.e. asin B0CDGZYW6Y)
Why are the studs on the left end (14 minute mark) not used since they are empty and available?
You can daisy chain many Lynx products together. Additional distributors as well as Shunts, etc.
So, what function does this do. Is it light up the power light or does it power something else? Thanks
Lights up the power light and then indicates what fuse is blown if one where to blow. Very helpful when debugging.
Can you make this work on a 48v system as well?
Yes, just requires a different step down converter.
Does anyone know something about the data protocol between lynx distributor and lynx shunt or lynx BMS ?
I don’t know if anything off hand. I’d ask a quest here. community.victronenergy.com/index.html
@SotaSolar Great video, Thank you for sharing! I think would feel a little better if it included some overcurrent protection (I.e. a small inline 1A leaded fuse with heat shrink in series with +12V input) in series with the cheap DC-DC buck converter. In case it shorts Ior those thin input wires get damaged (ie from abrasion in mobile application), it’s wired directly to the input bus bars with a lot more power behind them that could certainly burn the input wiring or dc-dc PCB). Also to take it a step further, a 5-6v tvs or zener across the output to protect the $200 lynx distributor from over voltage in the cheap dc-dc converter fails shorted input to output. it is a great solution, but I think that dc-dc that marginally has enough power to run the lynx is probably the weakest point in the system. Shame on victron for not implementing this on the PCB of the distributor! Especially since this is marketed as a standalone device. (It would have been so easy since it’s already wired to both bus bars). I considered the lynx shunt, but the general consensus seems to be the smart shunt is better and more reliable
That's a great point we'll look into it before producing them at any scale. We can say that we've had one failure, it was on Shawn's RV actually. A 12v step down was accidentally installed on a 24v system. It worked for a while, then stopped. No damage done, installed the updated 12-36v->5v step down with no issues.
Excellent video and instructions. Just a pointer. I made mine up and it didn’t work. Found out that one end of the phone cable was black on pin 1 and Yellow on pin 4 and the other end was Yellow on pin 1 and Black on pin 4. Just to warn anyone that you can still use either end but Pin 1 has to be the positive off the 5v and pin 4 needs to be the negative. Luckily mine works fine and it didn’t do any damage. You can work out the pins by having the connector in front of you and the clip to the back and they are pins 1 to 4 left to right.
It is not a RJ11. It’s a RJ9/RJ10/RJ22. RJ11 is too big to fit into the lynx. I lost my cable and I made one out of a brand new RJ11 and it doesn’t work. I am now going to change my end to a RJ10 so it will fit. Don’t buy a RJ11 cable.
You are correct. I usually just split the cable that comes with them to give us two adapters per lynx.