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Those charts are very confusing. How much total capacity did you get?

You'll get roughly the full ah capacity

My Hymer class B RV has that very setup by design. They use what’s called a kicker AGM battery to buffer current spikes from the 270A second alternator. The 400 Ah Lithium batteries are in parallel. Works like a charm. Only thing they did is lower the float voltage to 13.9-14.0. That still fills both the AGM and Lithiums

Hi, great video. I have a suggestion, though. This is a bit of a technical video. So, in my view, you might want to state your conclusion at the start of the video. Then, support your conclusion with evidence, and finally, restate your conclusion at the end. The best way to convey technical information is to think of it as a Christmas tree. You start by stating your conclusion. Then you present your facts, sort of like hanging the ornaments on the tree. Finally, you restate your conclusion to leave, no doubt, as to what you were conveying.

thats a beast system you guys did.. nice job SotaS

I'm just a dumb Trucker 🚚 who slapped 4x Optimum Yellowtop AGMs with 2x PowerQueen 300Ah in Parallel to 3x 300watt solar panels to an AIMS 10,000watt inverter. A combo of sun 🌞 and truck alternator⚡️ keep me at 13.5 so i can run my 800watt portable A/C 8 hours a night 🌙 with truck off. I've been doing this for a year now with zero issues... except when i do 34 hour reset in cloudy ⛅️ weather in which case i bust out my Predator 2000watt generator to supplement to keep A/C on 34 hours. I don't use fuses, shunts, isolators, or any other fancy equipment because i believe that stuff can create resistance, voltage drops, and inefficiency. I'm wanting to repanel with CIGs as soon as their price becomes more realistic in Biden/Kamala inflation. 😂

Great video information. Thanks Don

Your installs just keep evolving!!! Can't wait to see what's next!

Great job! I love the way you tiered the batteries. With a system that big (almost 21kwh) I would have gone with 48 volts instead of 24 to half the size of your wiring. I went with 48v on my smaller 16.4kwh battery. I have a separate 7.1kwh (560ah) 12v battery that I can also draw inverted power from. In fact, I did just that for this hurricane, as the week leading up to it was overcast and rainy the entire week here in NC, so to stretch my big battery, I ran the TV and computer off my 12v, 1kw inverter, saving my 48v, 5kw inverter to run my A/Cs, microwave, fridge, etc. Now that the storm has passed, both batteries will be full before the end of the day with over 5kw of solar. It's smart to have a 12v battery for brief, high current loads.

Costs a LOT of bread!

that’s a nice one!

Hey, I’ve been watching your show forever! I appreciate how much effort you put into customization. I’ve done it before on boats for 15 years with my own business. But I have to admit working with aluminum is much different than working with wood at times …..so I’m curious, how thick of plywood are you actually using to create your installation boards ?

Thanks, What size fuse would you recommend putting between the banks please?

Do you think it's safe to add two new 150ah lithium po4 to 2 year old 2x 120 ah lithium po4 in parallel. 400 amp shunt in existing buttner system. Appreciate your opinion. Cheers Graham

does total AH go up?

I've decided to run Series because of this video, thank you.

Just bought a lifepo4 Renogy Lycan 1075wh power box, which had no capacity, partly balanced the cells manually, and it was greatly improved, bought an active 1.2a inductive balancer, and run a few cycles, it's gaining 45wh every time it's cycled, currently its up to 750wh.

What would be the cause for a CB to pop? In the last week I’ve had both pop one at a time. The only thing I have running is the fridge? The. Inverter battery indicator shows four bars.

Assuming you size the cabling to be equivalent loss (e.g. higher gauge wires for parallel panels), the peak production will be very similar. However, the real benefit of series is that they will reach the minimum voltage level of the controller earlier in the morning and later in the evening, allowing you to capture slightly more overall energy per day. This is especially true when you are comparing larger systems with 48v battery. Most 150V max PV input controllers will have a typical "turn on" voltage of ~80V when used with a 48V battery system. If you have 6x 55V MPP panels, with a 2S3P panel configuration, no power will be collected until each panel exceeds 40V (loaded) production. However, with a typical 500V max PV input controller and a ~80V "turn on" voltage, in a 6S1P panel configuration, production will begin when each panel reaches just 13.3V (loaded). It would make an awesome video if you did a test to show the overall daily production difference between series and parallel as I don't think I've seen such a test !

I think it was a vid from Australia.Ever see a bat called the Beast 12v 608ah.Looked heavy .

Wire your panels in series not in parallel or at least make sure you alternate?

That’s a great looking install.

Did you lose your comb?

I have an ORV with a similar setup. I pulled the fireplace to run the power and cerbo through that wall.

Question? Why do you continue to use those crappy old fashioned batteries. You could put three Epoch 300 amp hour batteries in that same area. Or four LiTime 230 amp hour plus batteries in that same area. Or Big Beard 300 amp hour batteries. All three brands of batteries have better BMSs with 200 amp hours continuously. Your still the man, but think about it?

Brilliant! Gotta love that battery compartment. That's what I call thinking outside the box.

I have a 555 watts solar panel & a 12v 100ah battery. What MPPT charge controller should I use on these?

Good infor.❤

I think you have the panels in parallel rather than series in parallel the amps out are added but in reality you should be exploiting the mppt controller for its max pv in other words panels in series your average solar of 450 watts 450 divide volts eg 30v=15a or if its 40v panel 450/40 its 11.25a in parallel its 2 times these figures so 30a or 22.5a all within the capability of that victron then if you wire in series the amps dont double the volts doubles to 30=30v all within the pv spec of the victron so i have no idea what is happening here in truth in series you could have 3 panels on

That 100/50 seems to be the sweet spot price vs. capability. Then try to get more with 24v or more.

How long was the cable from the Cerbo GX to display?

The “show & No touch” trick is 110% a golden thing , we had two and they both love to tease more then chase the toy … until they allow you to throw it !! Great videos!!! Love dogs and Solar!!!

I have class A !! Should I go 24 volt system or stay with 12 volt???

How do I get the special little cable?

watching a few of these videos, I wonder if the current can be like 20a but after a long enough time it would pop open. which is not ideal for a charger current of 30A expected to run all day

Sorry to add more solar panels . I had a local solar guy try to add . But he couldn’t figure out where to pipe a 2nd set of wires , so he tied in as a pair.a 440 and the 370 stock panel. I wanna add two more 2 -440’s

I LIKE THE OLDER VERSION BETTER. THANKS FOR SHOWING

Any help with a drop on a 2023 grand design 303RLS drop….?

Any thoughts about connecting the two types of batteries in series or parallel?

Couldn't you just run a diode between the battery types so you don't get that power bleed? If you do this, then in theory, the gel batteries should only start drawing down once the voltage on the lithium drops below the resting rate of the gel. About 85% discharge of the lithium. Which would make the gel batteries a true backup. Just run a separate shunt for the gel batteries to show when they are drawing current so you know you are on reserves.

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

It figures that your channel found me after I completed my own solar installation. You've got great content, and I really appreciate the tip about flattening the bottom of the lugs....guess I'll be doing that soon.

Thank you for making this video. Lots of RV'ers, including myself, are adding solar power and LiFePO4 batteries for "house" batteries but have an AGM start battery. While putting the 2 types of batteries in parallel may be OK with the engine off (the solar powered LiFePO4 maintaining the AGM), the engine's alternator puts out a tremendous amount of amps. In my care it's 160 amps which could do some serious damage to a LiFEPO4 battery and possibly ruin the alternator. I have read that some people put a fuse between the AGM and the LiFEPO4 batteries while others use a breaker. What are your thoughts on this?

any bifacial experiments?

1590W Solar through 500V dual pole cutoff switch into Victron 150/60 charge controller Quattro 24/5000 with 2 24V 200 WH batteries servicing a complete RV rewire after gutting, new framing, subfloors, insulation, walls ceilings, macerator toilet, 36x6 foot walk-in shower and entertainment center. All for less than half the cost of a small piece of showroom junk from the dealership

I have one just like it made in USA, or labeled that way