Good decision to pull the old tape; likely didn't need three layers of new. You can convert even more unlikely wheels. I was mastering tubeless, so a few days ago got bold: used the original alloy wheels of my high-end 1970s touring bike, old Gravel Kings, makeshift stems (cut from old tubes) and electrical tape. Worked! Some old tire pinholes sealed up nicely; a stem needed a makeshift O ring (small rubber band wrapped tight around its base). Fun no-cost conversion. So far so good, but I wonder how they'll hold up with heavy use, like on gravel.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 They held up well under heavy gravel rides for a couple months. But it was a "testing of concept" and I didn't want to push my luck, so went back to tubes on this bike.
@@dugldoo thanks. I regularly run 25-30psi and i'm just seeing if there's anyone who does this conversion and sincerely rides them "full send" sub-30 psi. So far all the conversion videos I've seen run either high-pressure or the rims are not actually non-tubeless, or they've failed.
I usually clean the rims with 99.9% IPA on a cloth so that the tape sticks optimum. I also put the tyre on and inflate it first to see if it will before adding sealant, then deflate it and hopefully most of it will stay on the rim, add sealant through the valve tube, ad the core and inflate. Things got a bit messy there.... I'm doing battle with a pair of new Panaracer Gravel King SK (26x2.1) and a pair of non tubeless DT Swiss X1800 wheels at the moment(with proper T/L tape applied). Think I need to add either electrical or gorilla tape around the rim to increase the internal diameter as even with Schrader tubeless my "ghetto" (large coke bottle) cannister holding 80PSI won't look at it....Tyres are T/L rated just seems to be an issue of the clearance between the rim diameter and tyre diameter.... Rims are 18mm wide and electrical tape is 19mm, Gorilla is 25mm and would need cut for sure. Certainly a challenge and I could do with a compressor! Beginning to wonder if the real difference between tubeless wheels and non-tubeless is this factor- the tolerances...non tubeless are probably a lot slacker and sometimes tubeless tyres on tubeless wheels are really tight...
Got the tyres on without any additional tape- just took leaving them inflated overnight with a tube in to get the shape "set" and one side stayed fully on the rim when I swapped the tube for the T/L valve... the coke bottle worked it's magic....!
Hi, Pooja. The wheel did hold air overnight and for the rest of the season and up to today. I'm still riding on it. I had a nail in the tire a few months ago and it sealed up fine.
I use gorilla tape from homedepot for my mtb and I'm planning on converting my AIMA Big Sur 26x4 into tubeless by just taping the wheels and adding sealant. Again, nothing is tubeless ready but I definitely think will work. By the way I bout some expensive liners 60.00 Each x4 installed already, and it's a pain . That's why I want to go tubeless.
Nice video. I'm thinking of doing the same on a set of wheels with semi-deep aluminum rims (spoke heads are recessed). FYI, Muc-off's recommendation for road tires is 30-45ml per tire.
I’m still using those wheels, tubeless, without issue. Have some American Classic Kimberlite tires which have been really good at holding air. Check out my Gary Fisher build. Those wheels are on it.
Awesome. I heard Shimano clinchers weren't compatible for tubeless conversion. Searching the net, I couldn't find anyone trying this conversion - but you've now done it and this given me more confidence to give it a try with my Stans tubeless set. Thanks.
This was really helpful! Mine are leaking through those side holes, like you said the sealant is for yours. Does the sealant seal those 1mm holes, or did you need to apply a patch of some sort?
Those 1mm holes are drain holes to let any water that gets in the rim, out. If you're having trouble with leaks, there, it's getting into the rim around one of the spoke nipples. Double check that your rim tape is well adhered over the spokes. Maybe give it another wrap or two. Sealant might seal those but I think it'd have to fill up the inside of the rim first which might use all your sealant.
How did it hold up? I just bought a new road bike and cant afford a tubeless wheelset yet and was hopping this could get me through until my next tire change.
It's held up great. I had a slow leak in the back and switched from Mucoff sealant to WTB sealant and that fixed it. The WTB is thinner and better seals the bead.
I have 5 bikes and multible sets of wheels. I have regular clincher and tubless wheels. So I wonder what is the point of a tubless wheel if a non tubless wheel works the same?
The fit between a tubeless wheel and tubeless tire seems to be tighter. I’ve noticed that the tubeless tires on standard clinchers will sometimes unseat when deflated.
What was the problem ?.I use Gatorskins and they are notoriously tight to fit when new . I m going to try it anyway and maybe warm the tyres up a little in the oven to make them more pliable.If this fails I ll buy tubeless wheels .
Good decision to pull the old tape; likely didn't need three layers of new. You can convert even more unlikely wheels. I was mastering tubeless, so a few days ago got bold: used the original alloy wheels of my high-end 1970s touring bike, old Gravel Kings, makeshift stems (cut from old tubes) and electrical tape. Worked! Some old tire pinholes sealed up nicely; a stem needed a makeshift O ring (small rubber band wrapped tight around its base). Fun no-cost conversion. So far so good, but I wonder how they'll hold up with heavy use, like on gravel.
are they still holding with heavy use?
@@allrounderbicycle7193 They held up well under heavy gravel rides for a couple months. But it was a "testing of concept" and I didn't want to push my luck, so went back to tubes on this bike.
@@dugldoo thanks. I regularly run 25-30psi and i'm just seeing if there's anyone who does this conversion and sincerely rides them "full send" sub-30 psi. So far all the conversion videos I've seen run either high-pressure or the rims are not actually non-tubeless, or they've failed.
I usually clean the rims with 99.9% IPA on a cloth so that the tape sticks optimum. I also put the tyre on and inflate it first to see if it will before adding sealant, then deflate it and hopefully most of it will stay on the rim, add sealant through the valve tube, ad the core and inflate. Things got a bit messy there.... I'm doing battle with a pair of new Panaracer Gravel King SK (26x2.1) and a pair of non tubeless DT Swiss X1800 wheels at the moment(with proper T/L tape applied). Think I need to add either electrical or gorilla tape around the rim to increase the internal diameter as even with Schrader tubeless my "ghetto" (large coke bottle) cannister holding 80PSI won't look at it....Tyres are T/L rated just seems to be an issue of the clearance between the rim diameter and tyre diameter.... Rims are 18mm wide and electrical tape is 19mm, Gorilla is 25mm and would need cut for sure. Certainly a challenge and I could do with a compressor! Beginning to wonder if the real difference between tubeless wheels and non-tubeless is this factor- the tolerances...non tubeless are probably a lot slacker and sometimes tubeless tyres on tubeless wheels are really tight...
Got the tyres on without any additional tape- just took leaving them inflated overnight with a tube in to get the shape "set" and one side stayed fully on the rim when I swapped the tube for the T/L valve... the coke bottle worked it's magic....!
Good score, sir!
Be good to know the final result, did the wheel hold air overnight? and since then how has the wheel any leaks or issues?
Hi, Pooja. The wheel did hold air overnight and for the rest of the season and up to today. I'm still riding on it. I had a nail in the tire a few months ago and it sealed up fine.
I use gorilla tape from homedepot for my mtb and I'm planning on converting my AIMA Big Sur 26x4 into tubeless by just taping the wheels and adding sealant. Again, nothing is tubeless ready but I definitely think will work. By the way I bout some expensive liners 60.00 Each x4 installed already, and it's a pain . That's why I want to go tubeless.
Nice video. I'm thinking of doing the same on a set of wheels with semi-deep aluminum rims (spoke heads are recessed). FYI, Muc-off's recommendation for road tires is 30-45ml per tire.
Thanks Doug. Good luck with yours. Wrap the tape up the sides a bit and I'm sure you'll have good results.
Thanks. Im tubeless on my Mtbs and I’m trying it on my road bike rims…TL tape to convert rims for a set of tubeless ready tires.
I would appreciate an update on how well that rim held air.
I’m still using those wheels, tubeless, without issue. Have some American Classic Kimberlite tires which have been really good at holding air. Check out my Gary Fisher build. Those wheels are on it.
Awesome. I heard Shimano clinchers weren't compatible for tubeless conversion. Searching the net, I couldn't find anyone trying this conversion - but you've now done it and this given me more confidence to give it a try with my Stans tubeless set. Thanks.
I've put about 500 miles on them and I haven't had any problem whatsoever. I think you'll have good luck with yours.
Thanks for sharing - great video
Awesome Peter. Appreciate it.
This was really helpful! Mine are leaking through those side holes, like you said the sealant is for yours. Does the sealant seal those 1mm holes, or did you need to apply a patch of some sort?
Those 1mm holes are drain holes to let any water that gets in the rim, out. If you're having trouble with leaks, there, it's getting into the rim around one of the spoke nipples. Double check that your rim tape is well adhered over the spokes. Maybe give it another wrap or two. Sealant might seal those but I think it'd have to fill up the inside of the rim first which might use all your sealant.
How did it hold up? I just bought a new road bike and cant afford a tubeless wheelset yet and was hopping this could get me through until my next tire change.
It's held up great. I had a slow leak in the back and switched from Mucoff sealant to WTB sealant and that fixed it. The WTB is thinner and better seals the bead.
Do you ride off-pavement with these and at what psi?
I do, frequently. 50 psi, maybe a bit less.
I have 5 bikes and multible sets of wheels. I have regular clincher and tubless wheels. So I wonder what is the point of a tubless wheel if a non tubless wheel works the same?
The fit between a tubeless wheel and tubeless tire seems to be tighter. I’ve noticed that the tubeless tires on standard clinchers will sometimes unseat when deflated.
I don't see how clincher wheels would not be convertible into tubeless with tubeless tires and all the stuff needed..! 🤔
Its kind of a dice roll. The tolerances are not as tight on clincher and the bead lip isn't always deep enough to hold.
Thanks.
You're welcome
Every pegboard needs a #PEGBOY
I tried so hard to fit tubeless tires on tube rims ...I finally gave up. It didn't fit easily like yours. Its GP 5000
Sorry to hear that. Those GP’s fit tight, even tubed. I can only imagine how tight the tubeless version is.
What was the problem ?.I use Gatorskins and they are notoriously tight to fit when new . I m going to try it anyway and maybe warm the tyres up a little in the oven to make them more pliable.If this fails I ll buy tubeless wheels .