Thanks buddy for the sharing , its just made this job much easier because its no longer learn as you go along , Great informative video , Thanks from Dublin Ireland
Do exactly what you see and hear here. And you'll be fine. I did and it took 3 hours not counting my breaks. Im 59 years old its not easy being on your back wrenching things at chest level anymore in 100% heat in tucson arizona.
This is good to know. My wifes 2012 is getting ready to get its 3rd pair of rear wheel hubs at only 130k miles. The first time i used the ford "updated" hubs and they didn't last any longer than the originals. 60k seems to be about all you're gonna get out of them (as shown in this video as well). This time I'm gonna save some money and do what you did. Great video.
@@partsshooter I'm gonna try something other than the overpriced ford parts. I honestly think its a design flaw in the parts. I suspect moisutre is getting past either the black plastic backing plate or around the sensor and killing the bearings. No sense in paying ford prices if they're not gonna last any longer than chain store parts.
You should have verified operation by going on a test drive while viewing both rear wheel speed sensors live data To show proper and rational wheel speed values Other than that great video you answered my question I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why you would need a different for one for one with park assist thanks
How do I know if my focus has park assist? I know that when I out it in reverse it will be beep when i get close to things but I dont have a backup monitor
So, the difference between the sensors and tone rings (what the sensor reads from) is their ability to detect direction. Sensors on cars without park assist just read RPM and send it to the module. Sensors on cars WITH park assist read RPM, and also direction of rotation. The module that control the park assist needs that info.
I'd imagine there's a impedance difference with the sensor itself. Those tone rings look exactly the same. Sensor itself can't be directionally biased. I'm thinking that pcm [with park assist] just is capable of utilizing low speed signals, over the non based on ones ability to pickup low speed signals. I regret never checking the two now, to see if they were different in picking up signals
When I used the grey sensor I got faults for abs, traction control, and hill assist. Switched out to the black sensor from the old part and no more faults.
Hi many thanks from Portugal same model with noise on rear bearing with diagnostic as faulty on mecanic,i´ll buy a new one and replace it ,i´ll ask prices in europe on ford & compatible marks..thanks for the tips :-)
In my case, one was with park assist and other wasn't, the park assist was the cheaper one over the non. The construction of the wheel bearing are both the same, just different sensors.
![ลักพาตัว เอาลูกเอิร์นกลับมา...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f4NVKlZ5qkk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks buddy for the sharing , its just made this job much easier because its no longer learn as you go along , Great informative video , Thanks from Dublin Ireland
Do exactly what you see and hear here. And you'll be fine. I did and it took 3 hours not counting my breaks. Im 59 years old its not easy being on your back wrenching things at chest level anymore in 100% heat in tucson arizona.
Great video thank you friend made me feel better tackling my job
This is good to know. My wifes 2012 is getting ready to get its 3rd pair of rear wheel hubs at only 130k miles. The first time i used the ford "updated" hubs and they didn't last any longer than the originals. 60k seems to be about all you're gonna get out of them (as shown in this video as well). This time I'm gonna save some money and do what you did. Great video.
Have you considered changing brands or just think it's a common issue?
@@partsshooter I'm gonna try something other than the overpriced ford parts. I honestly think its a design flaw in the parts. I suspect moisutre is getting past either the black plastic backing plate or around the sensor and killing the bearings. No sense in paying ford prices if they're not gonna last any longer than chain store parts.
@@harryrathien1082 that definitely could be plausible! That or cheap bearing grease! Good luck with that wheel bearing
33,000 was I got from the replacements I fitted, only got about 80,000 from the OEM.!
This is awesome. Great video. Good logic. You just saved me a ton of money. thank you.
You should have verified operation by going on a test drive while viewing both rear wheel speed sensors live data To show proper and rational wheel speed values Other than that great video you answered my question I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why you would need a different for one for one with park assist thanks
If you destroy the torx bolts accidentally. You can get the ARP 674-1002 kit as a replacement. The M12x1.50 are not easy to find.
How do I know if my focus has park assist? I know that when I out it in reverse it will be beep when i get close to things but I dont have a backup monitor
So, the difference between the sensors and tone rings (what the sensor reads from) is their ability to detect direction. Sensors on cars without park assist just read RPM and send it to the module. Sensors on cars WITH park assist read RPM, and also direction of rotation. The module that control the park assist needs that info.
I'd imagine there's a impedance difference with the sensor itself. Those tone rings look exactly the same. Sensor itself can't be directionally biased. I'm thinking that pcm [with park assist] just is capable of utilizing low speed signals, over the non based on ones ability to pickup low speed signals.
I regret never checking the two now, to see if they were different in picking up signals
When I used the grey sensor I got faults for abs, traction control, and hill assist. Switched out to the black sensor from the old part and no more faults.
How many kilometers have the car?
I dunno why e-16 torx not working on mine even E-14
Hi many thanks from Portugal same model with noise on rear bearing with diagnostic as faulty on mecanic,i´ll buy a new one and replace it ,i´ll ask prices in europe on ford & compatible marks..thanks for the tips :-)
hi , key is E16 ? or E 60 ? in min 3,25 .....thank you, you did a good job. i also learned to change the bearing !
E16
It's a fucking e14
friend the electric model and sel use different wheel hub on the rear ?
In my case, one was with park assist and other wasn't, the park assist was the cheaper one over the non. The construction of the wheel bearing are both the same, just different sensors.
customhonda thanks for answering friend
Is it done the same way for the front ones as well?
If it's a hub assembly it'll be similar because there's no pressing in the bearing. Assuming... It's a hub assembly vs a regular wheel bearing.
Do the wheel hub bolts (reverse torqs) have a ft-LB rating?
Yes, however in my situation I didn't torque them "to specs" just made sure they were tight, added lock tight
customhonda so what’s the torque spec?
81 lb/ft
Could one side be park assist and other side be speed sensor?
It is possible to physically do that but it’s pointless to add one with park assist if your vehicle doesn’t have it
Very nice job an you you used power tools big thumbs up here you can also buy on eBay for 79.00 for a pair
So I’m assuming buying the whole hub is probably the way to go...
Yes. Otherwise, it’ll way too much work and not worth it.
How do you know when they are going out??
Moaning while accelerating, excessive play in wheel, constant rotational noise
All that trouble for $30¿?