I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my ‘12 Focus. Those E14 bolts were a bit*h. It took switching back and forth with a breaker bar and an impact wrench to get them out. Took about 3 hours. I think the thread lock just wouldn’t let go. The car dropped a bunch of codes after I replaced the hubs. The new hubs had brown wheel speed sensors and the original ones were black. I swapped in the original sensors and the car was happy. I will note that the parts I got were Ford OEM and the part number was what the dealer told me to get based on my VIN. Good thing I didn’t trash the original parts before finishing the job.
Had to take off the entire rear knuckle and use an angle grinder to cut the wheel bearing off. The head of the bolts were rusted so even heating up the bolts didn't make a difference as every tool would slip off the head, including bolt extractors. Just a warning to anyone attempting this at home on a jack stand, it can be done, but set aside enough time.
@stuartgrimm6048 yeah fronts are a real bear. I haven't been able to get even a press to push them out. I've borrowed someone's on-vehicle bearing press and it's worked, but requires enough pull to nearly break your arm lol. I recommend loaded front knuckles from rock auto
Quick question: I have a 2014 Focus. My TCM and clutch was replaced in 2020. It has recently again started to buck and shift hard. P07A3 popped up. One was stored, pending and permanent (maybe it was never previously cleared when it was first fixed?) I scrubbed and greased the ground terminals and reset the transmission. It drove perfectly fine for about 40ish miles. I drove it hard, normal and slow. Now my checm engine light is back on...Would I be wrong in assuming it's the TCM again? My train of thought is if it was truly mechanical, during those 40ish miles it wouldn't have shifted perfectly... I'm kinda lost, but I'm thinking my next steps is another TCM. I would greatly appreciate your input. Thanks.
Hi. You can take the upper clutch actuator and switch it with the lower clutch actuator. If the code changes to p07a5 then you need a pair of new oem actuators. If it stays p07a3, you probably have a stuck clutch fork. Did they only replace the clutch back then? Or the forks too?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I can't remember if they changed out the forks. I'll try switching the clutch actuators around. To turn the clutch counterclockwise, which special tool is needed?
I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my ‘12 Focus. Those E14 bolts were a bit*h. It took switching back and forth with a breaker bar and an impact wrench to get them out. Took about 3 hours. I think the thread lock just wouldn’t let go.
The car dropped a bunch of codes after I replaced the hubs. The new hubs had brown wheel speed sensors and the original ones were black. I swapped in the original sensors and the car was happy.
I will note that the parts I got were Ford OEM and the part number was what the dealer told me to get based on my VIN. Good thing I didn’t trash the original parts before finishing the job.
Sounds like a fun time 😮 glad you got it working. And good info!
Thank you same problem Christmas lights an dashboard because of you no more problem replaced sensor
@@denisportarescu9247 👍
i needed this thank you so much
You're welcome!
Excelente video
Had to take off the entire rear knuckle and use an angle grinder to cut the wheel bearing off. The head of the bolts were rusted so even heating up the bolts didn't make a difference as every tool would slip off the head, including bolt extractors. Just a warning to anyone attempting this at home on a jack stand, it can be done, but set aside enough time.
thank you for sharing
No problem!
Looks like something I would take to a shop up the street. 😀 Going to need a front, I can tell.
Fronts are a whole different animal.
@stuartgrimm6048 yeah fronts are a real bear. I haven't been able to get even a press to push them out. I've borrowed someone's on-vehicle bearing press and it's worked, but requires enough pull to nearly break your arm lol. I recommend loaded front knuckles from rock auto
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I paid my neighbor (he has an auto business at home) to do it. Took about an hour.
I'm glad I've got a retired guy who likes to make extra cash here and there, and has a shop at home. @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
Quick question: I have a 2014 Focus. My TCM and clutch was replaced in 2020. It has recently again started to buck and shift hard. P07A3 popped up. One was stored, pending and permanent (maybe it was never previously cleared when it was first fixed?) I scrubbed and greased the ground terminals and reset the transmission. It drove perfectly fine for about 40ish miles. I drove it hard, normal and slow. Now my checm engine light is back on...Would I be wrong in assuming it's the TCM again? My train of thought is if it was truly mechanical, during those 40ish miles it wouldn't have shifted perfectly... I'm kinda lost, but I'm thinking my next steps is another TCM. I would greatly appreciate your input. Thanks.
Hi. You can take the upper clutch actuator and switch it with the lower clutch actuator. If the code changes to p07a5 then you need a pair of new oem actuators. If it stays p07a3, you probably have a stuck clutch fork. Did they only replace the clutch back then? Or the forks too?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I can't remember if they changed out the forks. I'll try switching the clutch actuators around. To turn the clutch counterclockwise, which special tool is needed?
@@bobjoe5937 no, only for testing the fork or unlocking the clutch
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles okay, yes sorry I'd like to test the fork. Would a 6mm spine tool work?
@bobjoe5937 here's the tool, it appears it's 6mm amzn.to/3wmiMKU
do i need to torque the e14s? or is the just the impact good enough?
@@SuperFpac I've been fine using an impact