Fun to watch that old McCulloch chop those trees up. Nothing like reliving childhood memories cutting firewood with my father. Thank you for a trip down memory lane.
It has been real nice to get out with the saws again and process the wood for the winter burning season. Mrs. O is doing well, and is just getting well enough to start walking again.
It takes me Aa out 15 minutes to sharpen a 20 inch chain. I just use a file and file handle. I don’t have a pickaroon, I just use an axe to move wood rounds with. Just bury the axe in the end of the round and pick it up much as you do with the pickaroon.
I used to sharpen my chains the same way, but the PHERD 2 in 1 file is so much faster for me. About every fourth sharpening I take a flat file and raker gauge to make sure all the rakers are the right height. You can see that the chips really fly out of the old Mac and that it cuts great. This quick and dirty filing system works well for me.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I had one in 3/8” Lp but I did not like it and gave it away. I Sharpen a chain much faster with just a file. . I do the rakers last. If I rocked the chain, I take it off and put it on my chain grinder or buy a new chain. I am not going to take an hour to sharpen a chain with a 2 and1. I clean, sharpen and refuel a saw in an hour.
I don't have a lot of saws with a 3/8" lp chain, but I did buy a PHERD 2 in 1 file for them as well. If I screw up a chain pretty bad, I dig out my vintage BELSAW chain sharpener to get the chain back to like new cutting status. For my quick touch up jobs the 2 in 1 does a quick and easy job for me.
I have a fair collection of old chainsaw and chainsaw chain manuals that show all the different types of chain, from the original scratcher chains to the ones like we use today. The information shows and talks about all the different types of innovation and failures of the types produced in the past. I have saws from different era's, that have most of the types that are discussed in my manuals. Using the different chains also gives me feedback as how good or poor they perform. Hope this answers your question.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I think you could definitely help me figure out what model of old Oregon chain I have that I got on Old McCullochs from the '80's. It's Oregon, 3/8", 0.50 gauge full composition with actual rakers on it, not just depth gauges. They are curved similar to a tooth; but, have no cutting edge, and are not as wide as a tooth. I can't get over how much better it cuts than chain you can get nowadays.
Oregon chain has a number stamped on the drive tooth. #72 is a common size for 3/8 .050. That is the chain that I run on most of my saws that use 3/8ths chain. I inherited a roll from quite some time ago, and it has a different shape tooth than the current version of it. Although it is a round tooth cutter, it has a more squared off tooth than the new version. As you can see in my videos, my saws cut really well with this chain. Oregon had quite a few variations on this chain but not anymore. I think the reason they made the changes was to make it cheaper to produce. My old #72 definately outperforms the new stuff.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Maybe you could make a video or two about vintage saw chain. That's a topic I don't think many folks have touched on much.
You are in luck. You just need to look at some of my older videos about chainsaw chains. About two years ago I did a video ( Chainsaw Chains: What are the differences? ) and I did a couple of other videos about the same time on vintage chainsaw chains and also one on safety chains. Take a look.
The Mac 610's are tough to beat for a midsize vintage chainsaw. Mrs. O is doing very well, and will be walking fairly soon. Thanks for asking and for watching.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 you're welcome. The last time I had a Mac like the one you was just using. I was cutting a tree and it literally fell apart. Still running though. Can't beat them old sauce
The McCullochs need the screws tightened every so often. I had the same experience when I first started using Mac 610's. All the Macs get routine maintenence and screw tightening about twice a year. No more problems with the saws coming apart anymore.
I don't have an EVANSVILLE hatchet to compare with my axe, but the eye in the axe is bigger than the ones on my hatchets of other brands. The original literature I have show's it as either a boy's axe or small forest axe.
That crappy bar oil is County Line from Tractor Supply. It used to be pretty good, but this last jug of it is noticeably thinner and smokes like crazy in hard cuts. Others have mentioned the same problem. They must have changed suppliers. No more of that oil for me.
There may be a slight trend to thinner oils and less tackifiers for better oil flow, especially in cold weather. Just guessing. I heard of some modern saws that got persnickety when running long bars and thicker chain oil. I have diluted chain oil with fuel in the winter to get better flow.
I was just pricing chain oil this week. About $9.00 a gallon was the cheapest I've seen. You might get that a tiny bit cheaper on a sale price if you are lucky. Used to get chain oil from Walmart for less than $5.00 a gallon once upon a time.
Most bar oils from the big companies tend to be thinner these days. I have tried the Stihl and Husky oils and don't like them. I haven't tried the ECHO oil yet, but many have suggested it. The old bar oil was pretty thick, and in real cold situation the loggers thinned the oil with motor oil or kerosene. My old saws do better with the old type thick oil, but it is getting hard to find.
Fun to watch that old McCulloch chop those trees up. Nothing like reliving childhood memories cutting firewood with my father. Thank you for a trip down memory lane.
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching.
Yeah I've used my 610 quite a bit. Good old saws!
Yes they are!
Nice video Mr Obsolete... love that saw. Hope you and Mrs O are doing good. ...👍🤙
Mrs. O is doing well, and actually filmed a new video that will be coming soon. Thanks for the nice comment and for watching.
Yeah the old McCall did a good job on cutting up that tree that I enjoyed the cat too quite a character
The old Mac 610's have served me well for nearly 46 years. Powerful, fast cutting and last forever. McCullikitty is quite the entertainer !
I own a 610 and I love it
Those that own and use the Mac 610's really like them.
I have a 610. I like mine a lot.
Good choice !
Awesome video thank you for the video
Thanks for watching.
looks like the old codger knows what he’s doing too!
YEAH !!!!
Your cat "supervisor" left the landing when the chips started flying!
McCullokitty likes to be safe !
😀😮😀👍🏼 Nice Job Mr Obsolete and Hope all Is Well Again Mrs Obsolete 😀
It has been real nice to get out with the saws again and process the wood for the winter burning season. Mrs. O is doing well, and is just getting well enough to start walking again.
There was a 610 at dump yesterday complete, i almost took it home, but no my favorite yr, seems like i cater to 67-72 saws for some reason
You missed out. You should have grabbed it, fixed it, sold it and used the funds to get another saw that fits your collection better !
It takes me Aa out 15 minutes to sharpen a 20 inch chain. I just use a file and file handle. I don’t have a pickaroon, I just use an axe to move wood rounds with. Just bury the axe in the end of the round and pick it up much as you do with the pickaroon.
I used to sharpen my chains the same way, but the PHERD 2 in 1 file is so much faster for me. About every fourth sharpening I take a flat file and raker gauge to make sure all the rakers are the right height. You can see that the chips really fly out of the old Mac and that it cuts great. This quick and dirty filing system works well for me.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I had one in 3/8” Lp but I did not like it and gave it away. I Sharpen a chain much faster with just a file. . I do the rakers last. If I rocked the chain, I take it off and put it on my chain grinder or buy a new chain. I am not going to take an hour to sharpen a chain with a 2 and1. I clean, sharpen and refuel a saw in an hour.
I don't have a lot of saws with a 3/8" lp chain, but I did buy a PHERD 2 in 1 file for them as well. If I screw up a chain pretty bad, I dig out my vintage BELSAW chain sharpener to get the chain back to like new cutting status. For my quick touch up jobs the 2 in 1 does a quick and easy job for me.
Kitty! :)
McCullikitty likes to be in the limelight of our videos !
What do you know about old saw chains Mr. Obsolete?
I have a fair collection of old chainsaw and chainsaw chain manuals that show all the different types of chain, from the original scratcher chains to the ones like we use today. The information shows and talks about all the different types of innovation and failures of the types produced in the past. I have saws from different era's, that have most of the types that are discussed in my manuals. Using the different chains also gives me feedback as how good or poor they perform. Hope this answers your question.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I think you could definitely help me figure out what model of old Oregon chain I have that I got on Old McCullochs from the '80's. It's Oregon, 3/8", 0.50 gauge full composition with actual rakers on it, not just depth gauges. They are curved similar to a tooth; but, have no cutting edge, and are not as wide as a tooth. I can't get over how much better it cuts than chain you can get nowadays.
Oregon chain has a number stamped on the drive tooth. #72 is a common size for 3/8 .050. That is the chain that I run on most of my saws that use 3/8ths chain. I inherited a roll from quite some time ago, and it has a different shape tooth than the current version of it. Although it is a round tooth cutter, it has a more squared off tooth than the new version. As you can see in my videos, my saws cut really well with this chain. Oregon had quite a few variations on this chain but not anymore. I think the reason they made the changes was to make it cheaper to produce. My old #72 definately outperforms the new stuff.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Maybe you could make a video or two about vintage saw chain. That's a topic I don't think many folks have touched on much.
You are in luck. You just need to look at some of my older videos about chainsaw chains. About two years ago I did a video ( Chainsaw Chains: What are the differences? ) and I did a couple of other videos about the same time on vintage chainsaw chains and also one on safety chains. Take a look.
Dang I was just thinking about you. That McCullough is really running and cutting great. How is your wife doing
The Mac 610's are tough to beat for a midsize vintage chainsaw. Mrs. O is doing very well, and will be walking fairly soon. Thanks for asking and for watching.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 you're welcome. The last time I had a Mac like the one you was just using. I was cutting a tree and it literally fell apart. Still running though. Can't beat them old sauce
Saws
The McCullochs need the screws tightened every so often. I had the same experience when I first started using Mac 610's. All the Macs get routine maintenence and screw tightening about twice a year. No more problems with the saws coming apart anymore.
Got it !
I have to wonder if the Evansville is a hatchet head as it is so light weight.
I don't have an EVANSVILLE hatchet to compare with my axe, but the eye in the axe is bigger than the ones on my hatchets of other brands. The original literature I have show's it as either a boy's axe or small forest axe.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 That's interesting that they made an axe of that size. Usually about 2 1/4# is the smallest I've seen.
Collins and others also made them, but rarely seen today.
what brand bar oil is that? Ive never seen so much smoke from bar oil.
That crappy bar oil is County Line from Tractor Supply. It used to be pretty good, but this last jug of it is noticeably thinner and smokes like crazy in hard cuts. Others have mentioned the same problem. They must have changed suppliers. No more of that oil for me.
There may be a slight trend to thinner oils and less tackifiers for better oil flow, especially in cold weather. Just guessing. I heard of some modern saws that got persnickety when running long bars and thicker chain oil. I have diluted chain oil with fuel in the winter to get better flow.
They made a lot of really good saws back in the good old days.
I was just pricing chain oil this week. About $9.00 a gallon was the cheapest I've seen. You might get that a tiny bit cheaper on a sale price if you are lucky. Used to get chain oil from Walmart for less than $5.00 a gallon once upon a time.
Most bar oils from the big companies tend to be thinner these days. I have tried the Stihl and Husky oils and don't like them. I haven't tried the ECHO oil yet, but many have suggested it. The old bar oil was pretty thick, and in real cold situation the loggers thinned the oil with motor oil or kerosene. My old saws do better with the old type thick oil, but it is getting hard to find.