I have the first 3 saws you mentioned and a Stihl 056. I have always loved the Homelite EZ as it's the first saw I ever used. When I raced motocross in the 90s the local shop recommended golden spectro at 40:1 which I used and never had an engine failure. For my saws I have been using the Echo Red Armor after learning about it from you. 30 weight oil is getting hard to find especially in bigger containers and all oil is getting expensive.
Golden Spectro is what we use in our vintage dirt bikes, and have had excellent results with it. You are right about it getting harder to find 30 wt oil, as many parts stores no longer carry it and yes it is becoming pretty expensive.
My big to small would be my MS260 Pro with a 20” inch bar long.with 3/8 RS chain. It will mow through most stuff and is light enough to tote.. something biggerI my little saw is my Stihl 021 with a 18 inch bar with .325 RS chain. Its bar does not really limit my MS 660is it chain.. sbecause the bar is 19.5” long. If it runs out of gas I grab the 024 or 025. If I need a bigger saw my MS 440 is waiting in the wings with a 24” bar with 3/8” RS, as is my MS 660. If I need something bigger I call someone else. My two cycle oil is Stihl Ultra. At about 45:1. Flagg uses TW3 boat motor oil. Need I say more? You are right - use either Walbro or Zama rebuild kits.
For Real Big Wood I Use a Stihl 090 With 48” Bar .404 Chain 😀😊 The Mini Mac Is a Wonderful Saw All Those Saws Are Excellent Choices For There Specific Use 😊😀 I Love Keeping The Past Alive Too Like You Always Say Mr&Mrs Obsolete 👍🏼😊 Thanks For Another Great Video 👍🏼
An 090 is a great choice for big wood. I actually might have a lead on one, time will tell. The saws in my video have been great choices for me, and do a great job.
Been waiting for you this week to say I got a 700 pro Mac very mint for 275 bucks! Far as oil it's spendy but I use Kendall. We use it in our race cars also because when your turning 9000 rpms you want the good stuff! Use straight 70wt in the race car and our motors last! Good stuff as always and see you next week!
Actually I have a Pro Mac 700. I got it for the best price of all. free ! It is a nice clean saw, very powerful and fast cutting. I have it in some of my older videos. I wasn't aware Kendall oil was still around. It was preferred by many racers for sure.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I'm not so sure it is still available on the coast but it is here in Eastern Washington. The pro Mac is in very mint condition it makes me a happy guy!
I just got one of my power Mac 6’s back into running condition. It might take over the mini Mac 35’s spot, I really like it. Pretty much the same saw, but a better design imo. For oil IDK, I just run the same thing I’ve always ran in my motorcycles. klotz R50 @ 40:1. It’s synthetic and never a problem even in my old saws. I know how to tune them though and don’t go too lean. I hear you on the Chinese parts, i tried an $8 carb kit on the PM6, junk. Found an OEM on eBay, runs great. Glad china is still making parts for us though, had to use an aftermarket muffler on my 041, sometimes a guy is just glad to find something
The Power Mac 6 is a better saw than the Mini Mac's. I was contacted by a former McCulloch engineer who was tasked with making a cheaper saw in the same displacement category to replace the PM 6 The Power Mac 6 was expensive to make, the Mini Mac's, much cheaper. On your KLOTZ oil, the reason you are not having problems with it is that it is based on Castor Bean Oil, not Diester stock like most synthetics. Castor bean oil flows to hot spots, where most other oils flow away from a hot spot, then you get a seizure. Chinese Repli-Crap parts are better than nothing for sure.
Good stuff! I have a Husky 51 for smaller firewood / storm clean up and a 2100CD for cutting big firewood, I use them often. Also have a McCulloch 200, a Sears 917.60049, and a Remington mighty mite. They've been sitting for years, the 200 will run fairly decent but all need the carbs gone through.
Well,Well, here we go chainsaws, lets go. What no Husky? I guess thats my go to saw. Im back had to take my Dalmatian out. I m glad you talked about oil mix. I gotta start on the Mac 10 10, l use the full synthetic oil . It says mix less but l dont. Have a great week my friend.
One of the reasons I didn't mention a Husky saw, is that I don't own one, and haven't for years. If I had one, it would be a 372, as it is actually based on Partner chainsaw designs. I would not recommend using full synthetic in your old saws as it can be detrimental. Always use partial synthetic, and I would recommend ECHO RED ARMOR oil, it is excellent.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 lm glad you mentioned that about the oil. Sorta like T models oil, l think they needed zinc or something. Theres a racing oil l think that works. But before l attempt to crank it , l will deal with a small amount of mix at a time. I ll just cut a few pieces an hang it up more than likely. Its old an l dont know whats been used. An dont wanna mess it up. I will get what it needs. Thanks again.
Great video Mr Obsolete. I was wondering, If a McCulloch power mac 6 was the same size as the mini mac. There was one at an auction this past weekend that I wasn't able to go unfortunately.....it's hard to find those smaller topheld mini mac....👍🤙
The Mac Power Mac 6 is 33cc, just like most of the Mini Mac's. Some Mini Mac's were 29cc, but most were the larger size. Keep looking, as one of the Mini Mac's will show up sooner or later. They sold millions of them.
Very nice information. I run both modern and vintage equipment so the oil debate is one I'm watching closely. I'm probably somewhere between Klotz Super Techniplate, R-50. Or Echo Red armor. Apparently Mobil made a really good 2t oil as well, I'm not sure if it's no longer made, or just not available in the US anymore.
I would recommend the Red Armor, as it is semi synthetic, and used in all their current 2 stroke engines, and works excellent in the old stuff as well. Klotz R-50 is good stuff too, but is castor oil based, and in my experience doesn't burn as clean.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156Well thank you for mentioning Mr Richard Flagg, I checked out a lot of his oil videos and it looks like I already had several of the best. I'm going to stop using OPE oils and I will just run 2T motorcycle oils. I already have the Motul 800 which was one of his top picks. And it looks like even the red armor isn't even close.
You can add zinc disulfide by adding 10% STP to your oil. I run Pennzoil Full Synthetic in everything four cycle. My lawn mower and generators run 10w-30, which I change twice a year.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 the key these days is to use good gas.. I use premium, non ethanol with one ounce of stabilizer per gallon. I use Optimizer Plus.
Great top 4 chainsaws! I love mine. The Macs and the 051 are just SOLID saws. You're info on 2-stroke oil was great as well. Funny, I was thinking of throwing out a vid on 2-stroke oil a few weeks ago. I've had a few people ask me what I use as well. It seems to be a hot topic these days. The Walbro carb kit quality has definitely gone down hill. The last one I installed on my Homelite 360 had issues. Like you said, why outsource what you've been making in the USA for years?!?! Dumb. I run 30 weight in my lawnmowers and my Power Wagon wheelbarrow. I've never thought of adding an additive. Thanks for that, good stuff!
There is a lot of discussion about 2 stroke oils, and older era saws need different oils than modern saws. A couple of friends worked in chainsaw repair shops and gave me lots of good info over the years about oils that were crap and the damage they did to the saws. I didn't experience any problems with my saws, as I knew what worked best in them, but when I acquired saws for the collection, tore them down to decarbon them and see the bore condition, I found many that had lots of carbon and minor bore damage. If the saw came from someone I knew, I always asked what types of oils they used, and made notes for reference, so if someone asked about what oils to use in their 2 stroke equipment I could tell them what info I had about them. Running STP or any zinc additive to your 4 cycle air cooled engines will make them last and last. I like STP as it has the zinc and other additives that are beneficial, is a viscosity improver and sticks to the metal surfaces, so there is no dry start.
How lucky you were to have a couple of buddies giving you good, honest feedback on what works, and what doesn't. I'll have to swing by NAPA and grab me some STP with zinc!
Getting real feedback on good and bad oils, and how they affected the equipment was a real bonus. Your 4 cycle engines will like the STP. They will run smoother and cooler, and last a whole lot longer with it.
I'll have to try that STP in my oil for my chainsaw and all I have a gt6000 1970 Sears garden tractor I wanted to change the rear end oil in it and I didn't know what you to use and I was wondering if you would know I would I really appreciate it if you would tell me thank you for the video
Do not put STP in your chainsaw oil, as it will ruin it. It is for use inside 4 cycle engines, transmissions and differentials only. The oil you you need for your sears garden tractor rear end is 90 weight gear oil. I would recommend adding STP to that oil in a 10 % ratio by volume also.
Thanks for the nice comment. The spark plugs I use in my McCulloch Pro Mac 610's and 650 are NGK. Some of the 610's use a tapered seat spark plug, so I use a BM 6F, and if it uses a plug with a gasket, use a BM6 A. If you use the saw in hot weather, I would go one step colder on the heat range, which would be a 7 heat range such as a BM 7 F I have used all brands of plugs over the years, and the NGK's always performed better than most others. They are easy to find and not expensive either. Kep collecting them McCullochs !
What's even worse than the shit gas I get stuck with using here in my small town Ohio....The winter formulation of the same. You can't tune the saw while using it. The stuff has the narrowest window of tune I've ever seen. From dangerous lean to pig rich and back in a whole 1/4 of a turn. We don't have non ethanol in our area. Its a min 35 mile round trip to a station off interstate 71 if I want non eth. The bottom line is that today's pump gas is pure poison to our equipment especially the vintage stuff.
Pump gas is no good for sure. To get non ethanol gas is a 70 mile round trip for us, but since I don't have to rebuild the carbs all the time when using it, it is worth it, and the equipment runs so much better. The gas we get is premium, and is priced to match.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I agree on the worth it part. Unfortunately being a used power equipment sale and repair outfit I go thru a lot of gas. I need to buy non eth in a drum because the trips would kill me in time and money
I have the first 3 saws you mentioned and a Stihl 056. I have always loved the Homelite EZ as it's the first saw I ever used. When I raced motocross in the 90s the local shop recommended golden spectro at 40:1 which I used and never had an engine failure. For my saws I have been using the Echo Red Armor after learning about it from you. 30 weight oil is getting hard to find especially in bigger containers and all oil is getting expensive.
Golden Spectro is what we use in our vintage dirt bikes, and have had excellent results with it. You are right about it getting harder to find 30 wt oil, as many parts stores no longer carry it and yes it is becoming pretty expensive.
My big to small would be my MS260 Pro with a 20” inch bar long.with 3/8 RS chain. It will mow through most stuff and is light enough to tote.. something biggerI my little saw is my Stihl 021 with a 18 inch bar with .325 RS chain. Its bar does not really limit my MS 660is it chain.. sbecause the bar is 19.5” long. If it runs out of gas I grab the 024 or 025. If I need a bigger saw my MS 440 is waiting in the wings with a 24” bar with 3/8” RS, as is my MS 660. If I need something bigger I call someone else. My two cycle oil is Stihl Ultra. At about 45:1. Flagg uses TW3 boat motor oil. Need I say more? You are right - use either Walbro or Zama rebuild kits.
For Real Big Wood I Use a Stihl 090 With 48” Bar .404 Chain 😀😊 The Mini Mac Is a Wonderful Saw All Those Saws Are Excellent Choices For There Specific Use 😊😀 I Love Keeping The Past Alive Too Like You Always Say Mr&Mrs Obsolete 👍🏼😊 Thanks For Another Great Video 👍🏼
An 090 is a great choice for big wood. I actually might have a lead on one, time will tell. The saws in my video have been great choices for me, and do a great job.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Hope You Get The 090 It Will Be an Amazing Addition Too Your Vintage Collection and a Real Runner 😀❤️😊👍🏼
I'm hoping the 090 might show up, as it would be a real nice addition.
Ive had probly a 100 saws and best all around saw for the price id have to say early 70s homelites. Like the XL or Super vi 2
The XL 12 and Super XL's were tough, long lasting saws for sure.
Been waiting for you this week to say I got a 700 pro Mac very mint for 275 bucks! Far as oil it's spendy but I use Kendall. We use it in our race cars also because when your turning 9000 rpms you want the good stuff! Use straight 70wt in the race car and our motors last! Good stuff as always and see you next week!
Actually I have a Pro Mac 700. I got it for the best price of all. free ! It is a nice clean saw, very powerful and fast cutting. I have it in some of my older videos. I wasn't aware Kendall oil was still around. It was preferred by many racers for sure.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I'm not so sure it is still available on the coast but it is here in Eastern Washington. The pro Mac is in very mint condition it makes me a happy guy!
Nice score on the Pro Mac 700. They are an excellent saw, real performers. Nice to get a new toy from time to time to make us happy campers !
I just got one of my power Mac 6’s back into running condition. It might take over the mini Mac 35’s spot, I really like it. Pretty much the same saw, but a better design imo. For oil IDK, I just run the same thing I’ve always ran in my motorcycles. klotz R50 @ 40:1. It’s synthetic and never a problem even in my old saws. I know how to tune them though and don’t go too lean. I hear you on the Chinese parts, i tried an $8 carb kit on the PM6, junk. Found an OEM on eBay, runs great. Glad china is still making parts for us though, had to use an aftermarket muffler on my 041, sometimes a guy is just glad to find something
The Power Mac 6 is a better saw than the Mini Mac's. I was contacted by a former McCulloch engineer who was tasked with making a cheaper saw in the same displacement category to replace the PM 6 The Power Mac 6 was expensive to make, the Mini Mac's, much cheaper. On your KLOTZ oil, the reason you are not having problems with it is that it is based on Castor Bean Oil, not Diester stock like most synthetics. Castor bean oil flows to hot spots, where most other oils flow away from a hot spot, then you get a seizure. Chinese Repli-Crap parts are better than nothing for sure.
Thanks for the oil tips.
You bet!
Good stuff! I have a Husky 51 for smaller firewood / storm clean up and a 2100CD for cutting big firewood, I use them often. Also have a McCulloch 200, a Sears 917.60049, and a Remington mighty mite. They've been sitting for years, the 200 will run fairly decent but all need the carbs gone through.
Nice collection.
Well,Well, here we go chainsaws, lets go. What no Husky? I guess thats my go to saw. Im back had to take my Dalmatian out. I m glad you talked about oil mix. I gotta start on the Mac 10 10, l use the full synthetic oil . It says mix less but l dont. Have a great week my friend.
One of the reasons I didn't mention a Husky saw, is that I don't own one, and haven't for years. If I had one, it would be a 372, as it is actually based on Partner chainsaw designs. I would not recommend using full synthetic in your old saws as it can be detrimental. Always use partial synthetic, and I would recommend ECHO RED ARMOR oil, it is excellent.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 lm glad you mentioned that about the oil. Sorta like T models oil, l think they needed zinc or something. Theres a racing oil l think that works. But before l attempt to crank it , l will deal with a small amount of mix at a time. I ll just cut a few pieces an hang it up more than likely. Its old an l dont know whats been used. An dont wanna mess it up. I will get what it needs. Thanks again.
Great video Mr Obsolete. I was wondering, If a McCulloch power mac 6 was the same size as the mini mac. There was one at an auction this past weekend that I wasn't able to go unfortunately.....it's hard to find those smaller topheld mini mac....👍🤙
The Mac Power Mac 6 is 33cc, just like most of the Mini Mac's. Some Mini Mac's were 29cc, but most were the larger size. Keep looking, as one of the Mini Mac's will show up sooner or later. They sold millions of them.
Very nice information. I run both modern and vintage equipment so the oil debate is one I'm watching closely. I'm probably somewhere between Klotz Super Techniplate, R-50. Or Echo Red armor.
Apparently Mobil made a really good 2t oil as well, I'm not sure if it's no longer made, or just not available in the US anymore.
I would recommend the Red Armor, as it is semi synthetic, and used in all their current 2 stroke engines, and works excellent in the old stuff as well. Klotz R-50 is good stuff too, but is castor oil based, and in my experience doesn't burn as clean.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156Well thank you for mentioning Mr Richard Flagg, I checked out a lot of his oil videos and it looks like I already had several of the best. I'm going to stop using OPE oils and I will just run 2T motorcycle oils.
I already have the Motul 800 which was one of his top picks. And it looks like even the red armor isn't even close.
You can add zinc disulfide by adding 10% STP to your oil. I run Pennzoil Full Synthetic in everything four cycle. My lawn mower and generators run 10w-30, which I change twice a year.
By changing the oil twice a year in your equipment will keep them operating well.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 the key these days is to use good gas.. I use premium, non ethanol with one ounce of stabilizer per gallon. I use Optimizer Plus.
Gas matters !
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 sure does. That crap they sell for gas, today, is garbage.
It is !
Great top 4 chainsaws! I love mine. The Macs and the 051 are just SOLID saws. You're info on 2-stroke oil was great as well. Funny, I was thinking of throwing out a vid on 2-stroke oil a few weeks ago. I've had a few people ask me what I use as well. It seems to be a hot topic these days. The Walbro carb kit quality has definitely gone down hill. The last one I installed on my Homelite 360 had issues. Like you said, why outsource what you've been making in the USA for years?!?! Dumb. I run 30 weight in my lawnmowers and my Power Wagon wheelbarrow. I've never thought of adding an additive. Thanks for that, good stuff!
There is a lot of discussion about 2 stroke oils, and older era saws need different oils than modern saws. A couple of friends worked in chainsaw repair shops and gave me lots of good info over the years about oils that were crap and the damage they did to the saws. I didn't experience any problems with my saws, as I knew what worked best in them, but when I acquired saws for the collection, tore them down to decarbon them and see the bore condition, I found many that had lots of carbon and minor bore damage. If the saw came from someone I knew, I always asked what types of oils they used, and made notes for reference, so if someone asked about what oils to use in their 2 stroke equipment I could tell them what info I had about them. Running STP or any zinc additive to your 4 cycle air cooled engines will make them last and last. I like STP as it has the zinc and other additives that are beneficial, is a viscosity improver and sticks to the metal surfaces, so there is no dry start.
How lucky you were to have a couple of buddies giving you good, honest feedback on what works, and what doesn't. I'll have to swing by NAPA and grab me some STP with zinc!
Getting real feedback on good and bad oils, and how they affected the equipment was a real bonus. Your 4 cycle engines will like the STP. They will run smoother and cooler, and last a whole lot longer with it.
Yes Sir!
Good info on the oil there Sir I am a straight weight fan myself I kinda missed the Mac cat coming around though that's pretty nice cat you got there
We will try to have the cats in more of our videos.
I'll have to try that STP in my oil for my chainsaw and all I have a gt6000 1970 Sears garden tractor I wanted to change the rear end oil in it and I didn't know what you to use and I was wondering if you would know I would I really appreciate it if you would tell me thank you for the video
Do not put STP in your chainsaw oil, as it will ruin it. It is for use inside 4 cycle engines, transmissions and differentials only. The oil you you need for your sears garden tractor rear end is 90 weight gear oil. I would recommend adding STP to that oil in a 10 % ratio by volume also.
Me and my son really enjoy your show we got 10 or so mcculloch what kind of spark plug you recommend for a 610
Thanks for the nice comment. The spark plugs I use in my McCulloch Pro Mac 610's and 650 are NGK. Some of the 610's use a tapered seat spark plug, so I use a BM 6F, and if it uses a plug with a gasket, use a BM6 A. If you use the saw in hot weather, I would go one step colder on the heat range, which would be a 7 heat range such as a BM 7 F I have used all brands of plugs over the years, and the NGK's always performed better than most others. They are easy to find and not expensive either. Kep collecting them McCullochs !
What's even worse than the shit gas I get stuck with using here in my small town Ohio....The winter formulation of the same. You can't tune the saw while using it. The stuff has the narrowest window of tune I've ever seen. From dangerous lean to pig rich and back in a whole 1/4 of a turn.
We don't have non ethanol in our area. Its a min 35 mile round trip to a station off interstate 71 if I want non eth.
The bottom line is that today's pump gas is pure poison to our equipment especially the vintage stuff.
I've never had saw carbs freeze up here until gas changed to eth blend either
Pump gas is no good for sure. To get non ethanol gas is a 70 mile round trip for us, but since I don't have to rebuild the carbs all the time when using it, it is worth it, and the equipment runs so much better. The gas we get is premium, and is priced to match.
I have several saws that get carb icing in very cold weather, but most don't.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I agree on the worth it part. Unfortunately being a used power equipment sale and repair outfit I go thru a lot of gas. I need to buy non eth in a drum because the trips would kill me in time and money
Looks like you have a good solution.