SOLVED! This solution worked a treat for me. I had an issue where when the key was inserted 3 low clicks were heard from inside the column but not releasing. I had come across the drilling solution but was reluctant to try. The solution provided here was perfect. It did take quite a few sprays and manipulation of the locked wheel for the mechanism to take the WD40 but worked in the end saving me a unnecessary visit to the mechanic and hefty fees. 15-20mins repair time spent. Many thanks ;)
When trying the 18 fuse , low battery power and wd40 way. If your stuck and need to get home, try this. I've had this problem twice. There's a little solenoid in the lock that sticks. Not replaceable. It causes the key to freeze. What I did ,not for the faint hearted but, remove the column shroud, wiggle the key constantly if trying to start the car and simultaneously bash the underside of the alloy column section with a decent hammer. Helps if you have a helper to do either, but after a few whacks the solenoid is shocked enough to move and release the key. Once it starts keep it going till you get it home. Ihave replaced just the upper section of the column with second hand units. The second one is still working fine. Lot cheaper and easier than new column.
Useful video thanks guys - had to try the fuse 18 trick this morning, but when I opened the passenger side box, there is no fuse 18! and according to the manual its supposed to be spare, any ideas? (2011 Vogue SE L322, keyless) Cheers.
Great videos!! The WD40 fix has't worked for me even though the fuse trick does. Is there a way of permanently disabling or removing the wheel lock mechanism as I never need to lock the car ?
@@ngummow Thanks for your help. Can you explain a bit more, like exactly which plug to remove and how to 'short' the pins...I'm new to this and don't want to damage anything. Thanks
Use the car regularly. Pop off the steering column cover - remove the ignition plug and short across 1 and 7 with some thin wire. Replace the plug and it will keep the ignition circuit unlocked. I suspect with an extended period without use the battery drain might be felt - but mine has had no issues.
Not sure that this works for most peoples problems. If I disconnect that harness it help not having to run to the batter neg terminal each time. However, the little mechanism works as you hear it clicking back and forth. As long as I do not pull the key out I can set there and turn it on and off 30 times and it clicks back and forth each time. If I pull the key out and stick it right back in, its fine as well. If I pull the key out and wait about 1 sec I hear clicks all over and its locked down again. So to the part is working fine. There is something else that tells it to lock down about a second after the key is removed. I did pop off that little piece of metal and used a good bit of wd and tapping on the part and spinning the wheel. Again, I hear the piece engaging just fine. My car sat for 1.5 years with my driving it around a few blocks every few weeks. When the battery died, this is when this started. Crazy. I just want it out of my life...
You guys have some good content . I wish you would work out what you are doing before you make the video though, and get some better audio recording. It would make it much easier viewing.
They are giving this info free of charge in their own time. I & including others are just great full these guys do what they can to get us numpty’s back on the road again. I say numpty’s because if we were not, we would not be looking here for info.
@@popcornpaul33 you were experiencing the key not turning in the ignition? and instead of drilling you just sprayed the lubricant from the top at an angle? I just started experiencing this so i wanted to know if it was worth a shot. Thanks for the reply!
alwyn varghese hold on! I got a fix off of eBay email me and I'll show you what I got! The home thing I did not try! I thought this was talking about something else. There is an electrical work around fix that does work but I'm told it it temporary.
Fasted way to sort the key stuck or cant pull key issue is flip up the gaitor around the drive selector....on the side in the cavity is a small lever.....push it down or up....voila key out
I went to charge my battery today and forgot that the charger was on the 24v setting. Didn't realize for a few minutes before I disconnected it. I could smell a bit of an electrical burning. Now, the key will not turn in the ignition. The interior lights still work and the central locking still unlocks with the key fob. I have tested all fuses in the engine bay, glove box and at the rear, all are fine. Any idea where I should look next? I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins, I have also removed and replaced fuse 18 with no joy. I did try to turn the key while the 24v charger was running, I have a feeling that the burning smell was the solenoid as the burning smell came from inside the vehicle, 24v may have been too much? This is a 2003 Range Rover HSE, UK model.
Oh dear i am feeling your pain - easy mistake to make and you would hope there was some protection in the car to stop damage being done. Have you tried a spare key ?
@@L663 No, haven't tried a spare key yet. I have a feeling I smoked the steering column solenoid or or the solenoid that allows the ignition key to turn. Any way to check either one?
@@Coolcarting I think you are probably correct. i have been reading up on this for you found this www.lrukforums.com/threads/l322-ignition-key-will-not-turn-in-the-barrel.134654/ and also this for sale which i guess good clue as to what parts are in the system www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-0-TD6-RANGE-ROVER-L322-02-06-ECU-LOCK-IGNITION-IMMOBOLISER-KEY-SET-NNN000461/264608336913?hash=item3d9be2cc11:g:28YAAOSwxVReKU7V
@@L663 Here's a little update in case someone manages to do what I done. It was the ECU located inside the steering column. I guess when I put the 24v charger on the battery and then turned the ignition to check the fuel gauge it fried one of the ECU'S micro chips. I had to replace the steering column since the ECU is not replaceable itself. I managed to source a second hand one from a local supplier for £150.00. All is back to normal now. Thanks for the advice!
Best bet seems to just disable/remove the steering lock and key lock entirely and remove the headache. Who cares, it's only a theft thing which is so easily defeated by a informed thief. These cars are so cheap now they aren't a target much anymore and there are more clever ways to prevent a vehicle from starting that you can devise yourself that even a informed thief won't know what to do.
Pleasssss help...my 04 rr just started with this refusing to turn I charge my battery.. pulled the fuse...all helps in the one time start up after...then back to the norm..not turning. I've noticed that it's not clicking and also the steering wheel will not lock with vehicle off and key removed I'm trying the wd-40 as I type 🤞I'm trying to stay away from the dealership and from another 60 months car payment on something domestic...help!!!!...It's the steering column lock that's not working...anyone have any ideas why
@@alwynvarghese8380 none....at all been looking at what seems like 100s of forums all pointing to basically a new column....don't know about anyone else but 800 dollars on a rebuilt one for just 12 month warranty is still a hard one for me to swallow..
SOLVED! This solution worked a treat for me. I had an issue where when the key was inserted 3 low clicks were heard from inside the column but not releasing. I had come across the drilling solution but was reluctant to try. The solution provided here was perfect. It did take quite a few sprays and manipulation of the locked wheel for the mechanism to take the WD40 but worked in the end saving me a unnecessary visit to the mechanic and hefty fees. 15-20mins repair time spent. Many thanks ;)
Glad it worked for you !
Guys, you are fantastic! Thanks for all videos and good products you make!
thank you its awesome, you saved my
money 👍👍👍
You are welcome!
I would like to thank you. I did just what you said and it worked
Excellent
Thank you another very useful video.....
When trying the 18 fuse , low battery power and wd40 way.
If your stuck and need to get home, try this. I've had this problem twice. There's a little solenoid in the lock that sticks. Not replaceable. It causes the key to freeze.
What I did ,not for the faint hearted but, remove the column shroud, wiggle the key constantly if trying to start the car and simultaneously bash the underside of the alloy column section with a decent hammer. Helps if you have a helper to do either, but after a few whacks the solenoid is shocked enough to move and release the key. Once it starts keep it going till you get it home. Ihave replaced just the upper section of the column with second hand units. The second one is still working fine. Lot cheaper and easier than new column.
There is a black 3-prong plug on the left side of the steering column. What is that for? The wires in mine are melted and I need to replace it.
Useful video thanks guys - had to try the fuse 18 trick this morning, but when I opened the passenger side box, there is no fuse 18! and according to the manual its supposed to be spare, any ideas? (2011 Vogue SE L322, keyless) Cheers.
Thank you for your Videos !
Great videos!! The WD40 fix has't worked for me even though the fuse trick does. Is there a way of permanently disabling or removing the wheel lock mechanism as I never need to lock the car ?
Yes - remove the plug underneath the column and short across pins 1 and 7. Replace plug and you are good to go.
@@ngummow Thanks for your help. Can you explain a bit more, like exactly which plug to remove and how to 'short' the pins...I'm new to this and don't want to damage anything. Thanks
@@bunnydrummer4092 it only works if the column is unlocked and you use the car
Use the car regularly.
Pop off the steering column cover - remove the ignition plug and short across 1 and 7 with some thin wire. Replace the plug and it will keep the ignition circuit unlocked. I suspect with an extended period without use the battery drain might be felt - but mine has had no issues.
Not sure that this works for most peoples problems. If I disconnect that harness it help not having to run to the batter neg terminal each time. However, the little mechanism works as you hear it clicking back and forth. As long as I do not pull the key out I can set there and turn it on and off 30 times and it clicks back and forth each time. If I pull the key out and stick it right back in, its fine as well. If I pull the key out and wait about 1 sec I hear clicks all over and its locked down again. So to the part is working fine. There is something else that tells it to lock down about a second after the key is removed. I did pop off that little piece of metal and used a good bit of wd and tapping on the part and spinning the wheel. Again, I hear the piece engaging just fine. My car sat for 1.5 years with my driving it around a few blocks every few weeks. When the battery died, this is when this started. Crazy. I just want it out of my life...
were you able to solve it with the wd-40?
were you able to find a fix for this?
You guys have some good content . I wish you would work out what you are doing before you make the video though, and get some better audio recording. It would make it much easier viewing.
They are giving this info free of charge in their own time. I & including others are just great full these guys do what they can to get us numpty’s back on the road again. I say numpty’s because if we were not, we would not be looking here for info.
Mine moves to all presets and when you ignition on and off but won’t move using the stalk adjuster ! Any ideas ?
awesome solution! I hope it works for me! might I find out what kind of "steering wheel" that is? I'd like to replace mine for that one! thank you!!!
We have the steering wheel on our website
www.powerfuluk.com/vehicles/range-rover-full-size/l322-vogue-2006/interior.html
did the solution work for you ?
alwyn varghese yes
@@popcornpaul33 you were experiencing the key not turning in the ignition? and instead of drilling you just sprayed the lubricant from the top at an angle?
I just started experiencing this so i wanted to know if it was worth a shot. Thanks for the reply!
alwyn varghese hold on! I got a fix off of eBay email me and I'll show you what I got! The home thing I did not try! I thought this was talking about something else. There is an electrical work around fix that does work but I'm told it it temporary.
Fasted way to sort the key stuck or cant pull key issue is flip up the gaitor around the drive selector....on the side in the cavity is a small lever.....push it down or up....voila key out
I went to charge my battery today and forgot that the charger was on the 24v setting. Didn't realize for a few minutes before I disconnected it. I could smell a bit of an electrical burning. Now, the key will not turn in the ignition. The interior lights still work and the central locking still unlocks with the key fob. I have tested all fuses in the engine bay, glove box and at the rear, all are fine. Any idea where I should look next? I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins, I have also removed and replaced fuse 18 with no joy. I did try to turn the key while the 24v charger was running, I have a feeling that the burning smell was the solenoid as the burning smell came from inside the vehicle, 24v may have been too much? This is a 2003 Range Rover HSE, UK model.
Oh dear i am feeling your pain - easy mistake to make and you would hope there was some protection in the car to stop damage being done.
Have you tried a spare key ?
@@L663 No, haven't tried a spare key yet. I have a feeling I smoked the steering column solenoid or or the solenoid that allows the ignition key to turn. Any way to check either one?
@@Coolcarting I think you are probably correct.
i have been reading up on this for you
found this
www.lrukforums.com/threads/l322-ignition-key-will-not-turn-in-the-barrel.134654/
and also this for sale which i guess good clue as to what parts are in the system
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-0-TD6-RANGE-ROVER-L322-02-06-ECU-LOCK-IGNITION-IMMOBOLISER-KEY-SET-NNN000461/264608336913?hash=item3d9be2cc11:g:28YAAOSwxVReKU7V
@@L663 Here's a little update in case someone manages to do what I done. It was the ECU located inside the steering column. I guess when I put the 24v charger on the battery and then turned the ignition to check the fuel gauge it fried one of the ECU'S micro chips. I had to replace the steering column since the ECU is not replaceable itself. I managed to source a second hand one from a local supplier for £150.00. All is back to normal now. Thanks for the advice!
@@Coolcarting Thanks for posting the update... glad your back normal !
Forgot to add......grease up the lever and linkages ....cured mine
Best bet seems to just disable/remove the steering lock and key lock entirely and remove the headache. Who cares, it's only a theft thing which is so easily defeated by a informed thief. These cars are so cheap now they aren't a target much anymore and there are more clever ways to prevent a vehicle from starting that you can devise yourself that even a informed thief won't know what to do.
Добрый день, где можно купить комплект, ручник и руль
Pleasssss help...my 04 rr just started with this refusing to turn I charge my battery.. pulled the fuse...all helps in the one time start up after...then back to the norm..not turning. I've noticed that it's not clicking and also the steering wheel will not lock with vehicle off and key removed I'm trying the wd-40 as I type 🤞I'm trying to stay away from the dealership and from another 60 months car payment on something domestic...help!!!!...It's the steering column lock that's not working...anyone have any ideas why
Any help...
@@carlosmcneil8674 were you able to find a fix?
@@alwynvarghese8380 none....at all been looking at what seems like 100s of forums all pointing to basically a new column....don't know about anyone else but 800 dollars on a rebuilt one for just 12 month warranty is still a hard one for me to swallow..