I had one these back in the early 90's. The retaining mechanism for the piston is pretty unique, it uses ball bearings in a metal sleeve that latches over the end of the piston's spring guide instead of the more common main sear. Very clever but very fiddly to reassemble!
For what it's worth, in Australia they were badge engineered 'Gecado'. I have been lucky enough to acquire a few in various models and calibres. The Mod 50 is in .177
I've spent many hours "playing with " the internals of the mod 50 and come to the conclusion that around the 7.5 fpe mark is the sweet spot for it, fitting an over long titan or ox spring makes it too harsh to hit the target but doesnt do much for power levels. Conclusion i drew is that the bore/stroke combination doesn't provide enough air to increase the power levels much beyond this point
I’ve just got one of these of a mate of mine. Apart from the nail in the piston seal and half of the proper fittings missing or worn and the stock split down to the breech tap I am dreading trying to figure out how to put that mechanism back together. In theory it looks straight forward but the stories are legendary of kids taking them into their local gun shop in a carrier bag asking for them to put it all back together again! Lol
Great video, very informative! On the power, I think your numbers are about what to expect for these, not overly powerful.Of the top of my head these used the powerplant from the model 35.I have a late 60's Gecado (it seems all branded gecado here in Australia up until time they got name back in early 80's)branded 50 in .177, I dont have a chrony but the way it moves my field targets and penetrates timber it is pretty well the same as a 35, which is only a wee bit more than the 27. There was a magnum t01 version made briefly (ive got one on layby! I will report here once i pick it up)which i think was built on the 45 powerplant and possibly the most powerful underlever made by Diana, its easily identifiable from the extended cocking lever.I dont shoot the old one often, its immaculate and im scared to put much wear on it so shes pretty well just a safe queen! The newer one is well used so i will shoot it instead when i get it. I really love shooting the 27 and 35 much more anyway, just a bit more manageable with the size and weight and the power is more than adequate! I do not posses a more accurate springer than my 27 even my mates much older smoothbore 27 is silly accurate and has never been maintained or re-built, its possibly 80 odd years old, unfortunatly any date marks on butt not legible properly but kind of looks mid 30's. Obviously im also very interested in the vintage Dianas, all info here i just pulled from memory so i could be wrong on powerplants!
I haven't used a 27 or a 35 before, but I will keep an eye out for one and give it a go if I can get one for a good price. I really like the 25, pretty basic but great fun to shoot, I have a couple of them.
Hello My friend, Thank you for another great review of a quality airgun. Thank you also for showing the ball trigger mechanism by removing the end cap. I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, as you may have already done this. I have a Diana Original Model 35, which my late father left me. I dont think he'd had them long. Dad left me two Model 35's. One was. 177, the other was .22. In memory of my father, I wanted to refurb them and make them the best I could. I replaced the piston and breech seals. There were no top hats, so I made two out of delrin bar. I sleeved the piston insides and the spring guide. I re assembled, and they work great now, no buzz/twang, thank uou thank you. The point of my message is the ball trigger. The ball trigger face tube is stepped at our side. To create a flush fitting face, I cut a piece bar and shaped it to the face of the ball trigger housing. The other end of the bar was square, facing the sash cramps jaw. I used a correctly sized socket to take pressure off the trigger assembly to knock through the retaining pins so they could be knocked out. I then just wound the sash cramps forward until the spring had no pressure/tension. If at any time there are problems, then have a hole punch ready on standby, to push into the compression chamber, or there abouts. Stay safe!
Great video review, just bought a almost as new early 1950s Diana 50. It was in .177 but the FPE was 6+. I think you FPE in the high 6s is where the gun was new. It’s a target shooter and when it was designed power just wasn’t the issue we make of it now. Agree these are super well made guns! Thanks for the time you spend makes these reviews excellent!
My father bought a pair of these in the 1970s, a .177 and a .22. I have tested the .22 which gave about 400 fps. I am fairly sure these were all manufactured for compliance with German power limits (7.5 joules/5.5 foot-pounds).
Both the 45 and 50 were well sort after rifles in the late 70's and early 80's both guns were well above the 9ft lb mark and I'm sure they were around 12ft lb, the HW 80 was a death nail in the 45's coffin when it arrived in the early 80's.
He should have fitting the No.1 spring in to get it to full power. I have a 50, and it's a delight to shoot. Only one I enjoy more is the Original model 65; it's a 10m indoor match rifle and just amazing to shoot.
Owned one the power output is target rifle power it was made for target work.. The best way to rebuild with the three ball setup is seat the ball bearings using thick moly grease it holds them in place while you rebuild... They are a great old rifle...
I can remember these rifles in the 70's. They were not a powerhouse for there is too little swept volume for high power. They were advertised with a muzzle velocity of 490 fps in .22. And 690 fps in .177. A later version was made with a slightly higher muzzle velocity but was not as pleasing to look at with a rather square trigger guard and more angular stock. A BSA Airsporter spring will fit this rifle. But in reality you're only going to see about 7.5 to 8 ft lbs of energy at best in .22 and attempting to extract more will ruin it. I was once offered a British made version of this rifle called a G55 and I kick myself for not buying it! Many thanks for another great video and a trip down memory lane.
In South Africa it was sold as the Gecado 50 and was much admired by those owning the lesser rifles,I had a Gecado 27.That's why I was surprised to learn of the 50's fairly low power as it had a reputation of being the most powerful of the Gecado line.I think that my 27 was about 650 FPS in .177 so in .177 I'd be expecting a 50 to be about 850 or even more as there was,not sure about now,no legal limit on the power of air guns as they introduced a license for them anyhow.
Just curious why you went with the OX No.3 spring? You should use a No.1 for the model 50. The early ones should be easily around 10fpe, and the last few from the 80s in the mid 11fpe range.
Good video mate , I just dug my original mod 50 out . I read somewhere they are quite low powered even when new. But I,m sure they said it was around 8-9 ft lbs
Evening mate,been watching your video for a few weeks now and watching this one ,original 50,brings back memories of my first sight of one..as kids used to go down town, Sheffield, and would always end up at Suggs sport shop.on The Moor...a shopping parea.loads of guns lined up in racks and there it was the Original 50 ,liked these guns ever since but never managed to get one.....this was in late 50s early 60s. Great video 👍
What problems did you have when you were pitting it back together, was hopeing for a reply, would be good to do a close up video of you putting it back together
I gave it a damn good clean after i stripped it, the only thing is when i put it together, i didnt seem to put tje trigger mechinism right, dont seem a big deal, just to save time hope you show or tell how ya done it and i also lost one of small bearing balls. The last bit would be good to know how you done it, it will be helpfull and save time
I owned one of these but with four front sights, small blade, large blade, small bead, large bead that could be rotated, with the rear sight also rotating to suite the front sight. I also had a micrometer rear sight which made the rifle very accurate and great fun to use. I wish I still had it!
Sounds like you had a nice example with all the accessories. I'll give you a quote from Tom Gaylord which might make you feel better about missing your Model 50. "Someday, every airgun in your collection is going to belong to someone else. You only own them for a brief period, and then they are on the block once again. Do not fret about this-it is how you got them in the first place."
rw/wgc regarding the low power have you checked the loading port for leakage. put talcum powder on it and fire a pellet if you see a puff of powder this will show a leak .
Pretty sure it was working fine! The higher power variant was marketed to have 650ish FPS in .22. The older .177 only shoot about 650, so in .22 the numbers he got seem to be pretty close. They are built on the 35 powerplant which of top of my head is rated 685 in .177, only fractionally more than the model 27's 650. I have all of these (.177, no interest in .22's because crap BC) in my collection, except the t01 50 which im paying of. One day ill buy a chrony and run all of mine through it and make a video.
I have just purchased a gecado version of this gun. I believe this name was given to the export models sold in South Africa and Australia. I have tried several mainsprings and not getting over 500fps in 22. This version has no plastic apart from the butt pad. Also the cocking arm is sold steel bar as the trigger is. Conclusion bloody lovely constructed air rifle. P.s if you want help putting the trigger group back together there’s a you tube video of I think an Indian gunsmith doing so. A round of applause for him.
I recently added a Diana 35 to my collection. It is my first air rifle. It was given to me by my wife’s cousin. There is no owner manual. I would like to adjust the trigger pull and travel if possible. I see two small screws next to the trigger underside. Are you able to advise me as to how both the adjustment screws work? Thank you:)
Wil it work with out the ball bearings, and when i was putting it back together the bearings were fallibg out, would love to know how you did tje triggr when pitting it all back to gether
There shouldn't be plastic bids on a Diana 50 dating 10/67. We got two dating '67 & '68 in .177 and neither got any plastic bids on beside the stock decoration. A bit of fitting steel tubing filed down to fit and then oil harden, may be better suited tool for those old locking nuts. A large blade screw driver grinned out in the middle as thinned might work as well. Regarding the leather piston seal screw - that is pinned down with 3mm mild steel pin. If working the screw back holding the piston wrapped in an old towel to protect your hands as provide grip and for for a bit. If this doesn't pop that pin lose you better drill it out then break off the screw holding the seal assembly. Once you done that you can either cut a M3 thread and use a tape screw or you put you faith in loctite 262/270. If those bearing balls in the cocking system get lose on you, just tack them down with a dab of MOS greese. If the locking action should stay together while striping the rest down, cut some fitting drill rod to about 25-28mm length as take-down pins and everything stays together.
Good video mate. I have the same rifle as you but its a .177. Sometimes the pressure fails when you fire, ater watching your video i know i must change the spring. Can it be taken out and lubricated and put back in untill one can get a new one. If so please tell me how. Thanks.
A really interesting Rifle..Well made but over complicated unfortunately..Can you get more power out of one say 11 foot pounds with new seals and Spring though?
Hi there, right now i am restoring my old man,s air rifle. A Diana mod 50E. , The first model after the war. one of the 175 models with the " Donor" buttstock(factory). To answer your struggle with changing the piston head, is that these flathead /tapered screws would have 4 slots from up to down along the screw-thread. If you look on the side of your piston-slide (under the face of the piston) there will be a little pin. if that one is hammered in, your screw will be locked to prevent turning. Overall it is a verey gentle weapon that needs all treatments to preserve it in good condition, even is my herritage from the 50,s it will be acurate if it comes to the point!
I've got one too and an hw 77 and I need to sell one to raise a little cash,can't make my mind up which to sell, 77 is probs more value and 50 has sentimental value,but the 77 is a good hunter if I ever needed one..which would you prefer to lose?
@@jerryadams4449 Definitely the 77 is a much better rifle, 77 and 97s are the best Weihrauch's made, 80s are also good esp if want 18ft/lb but not as accurate as above,
Get yourself a copy of 'Spring Powered Air Rifle and Pistol Maintenance'. It's a great book and explains (with pictures) how to disassemble and reassemble the Model 50.
I need identification help . I have a Diana with no model # on it . it very close to your model 50 however the stock stops around the pellet loading area , any ideas?
Vortek Piston Seal, new standard mainspring and new barrel seal should do it. No grease on the piston! I use molybdänsulfite. Did that with Diana 27 from 1957. shoots excellent.
I liked your video a lot. I want the gun as well. I have a BSA model D. what is being repaired by John knibbs. however I do have a question. how would you mount a scope to that gun as it has non-standard mounts? I am not talented enough to make mounts for it.
+Joshua Gregory I've never put a scope on it so I'm not 100% sure. I believe the rail was designed for a Diana/Original diopter sight, however I have seen other Model 50s with scopes mounted, and they look like they are put on using standard 11mm dovetail mounts.
Air Armoury thank you not responding. Curious to find out if it was possible with modern technology. I do prefer shooting the older airguns. Recently found your channel. Annoyed what you are doing.
I am interested to know. How do you know what air rifle is 12 ft/lbs because getting a licence is too much hassle. Just help me, is there a way to look at the specs of it and know if its 12 ft/lbs?
+Rapid Steve The best way to check the power is with a chronograph, but I appreciate that not everyone has one, and you may not be able to check a rifle before you buy it. Usually a guns specification will give it's FPS. You can use this to work out it's power using the following calculation (pellet weight in grains X fps X fps, then divide that number 450240). It is also worth remembering that in England and Wales you cannot buy/sell a rifle 12ft/lbs+ over the counter without an Firearms Certificate (licence). All air guns for general sale are slightly below that limit. Even guns that are made abroad and are higher power, have to be reduced in power before they are imported. Hope this helps.
I got one of these,immaculate condition,I don't use it now, but I think this is one of the best looking air rifles out there...like to see this in a gas ram version,and to load a pellet in the loading tap is superb,no bear trap on this rifle ? Great video by the way thanks
I think the low power may be attributable to the 5.6mm pellets used. This is a continental gun made in metric ( 5.5mm) . 5.6mm is too big and would have had too much resistance. Only the old British guns had true 5.588mm .22 barrels. ( plus one or two obscure makes).
Great video buddy. My old Dad (83yrs old) was telling me about an "Original" .22 under lever that he bought in 1955 when he was 19yrs old. He can't remember what the exact model number but he really enjoyed your indepth video and information. Thank you.
Good evening. . I recently received a "bb gun" as a house warming present from a friend little did she know that it happens to be a Diana Model 1 rifle i stamped made in Great Britain... i would like to know if it is a rare find in South africa?
I love the mod 50, I have five of them, One is 4.5mm cal, Rest are 5.5mm, One of them is a type 01 which I sold years ago and then got the chance to buy back in 2019! One of the 5.5mm ones is in bits, Has been for years, I'll have to get the balls greased and rebuild it!! Enjoying your vids btw 👍😎
+Mark Homer Yeah it's a great looking gun. I like the idea of hanging a gun or two on the wall, but for me personally I think guns need to be shot rather than displayed.
+juliesfar They are great guns, and it sounds like you got a great deal on one. Most are in .22 so it's cool to have a .177. Out of interest, how did you fix your scope and what kind of mounts did you use?
Wasp pellets at 5.6mm will not be helping you they are more suited to BSA or Webley guns of that era. German guns had a tighter boring for .22 at 5.5mm, you'd be better suited to buy RWS or another European made pellet or Wasps in 5.5mm, though I don't know if they still make 2 sizes.
maybe the newer spring you installed is just not as good, or the replacement seal is not quite as snug as the original, who knows.......but never the less, and interesting video as always..... :).....some times the newer option is not always the better option....... :/
+davescorpion Thanks for another comment. You could be right as the parts are modern replacements, not originals made by the same manufacturer as the gun.
And i don't know how much joule this rifle can handle, without breaking it, with a other spring, to have the lawful 16.2 Joule in the uk. Regards Thomas
Hello, that is not correct this rifle must have more power, it was build in 1967. The regulation with 7.5 joule is since 1970....At this time the airguns in Germany have a F Logo in a Pentagon for free selling to people older than 18 years ......with more power (no regulation) and without a F-Logo (when they are build after 1970) you can have these guns in Germany only with a hunting license or a sportshooter license. The Diana Mod 50 have a speed in .22 Caliber from ca. 600 FPS and in .177 from ca. 745 FPS. I think there is something wrong with the rifle or the new custum parts........sorry for my bad english......Greetings from Germany Sascha
Thanks for your comment, this is really interesting. I did think the power should have been higher. I have sold the rifle since making this video so unfortunately I can no longer take it apart to investigate.
I cant think of anything other than that the leather seal should be well soaked with oil . I think that these rifles lose a bit of air through the loading port and the transfer port is long; plus i bet that the stroke is rather short which all in all steal some velocity . But it is a beautiful old rifle nevertheless.
Yeah it is a lovely gun. I soaked the new leather seal before I put it in so that shouldn't have been a problem. It does have quite a short stroke. I have sold the rifle since making this video so unfortunately I can 't investigate further.
My late father owned an Original. 22 in the 60's.A policeman friend "worked", on it and made very powerful.He demonstrated it by shooting a pigeon for his office in South Norwood police station.He killed it and rushed out to retrieve it.Before he got there,my dad saw a Chinese take away guy take it into his restaurant.True story. 😂😂😂
I had one these back in the early 90's. The retaining mechanism for the piston is pretty unique, it uses ball bearings in a metal sleeve that latches over the end of the piston's spring guide instead of the more common main sear. Very clever but very fiddly to reassemble!
Any chance of a vid showing a stripdown, esp the trigger unit? Excellent reviews
For what it's worth, in Australia they were badge engineered 'Gecado'. I have been lucky enough to acquire a few in various models and calibres. The Mod 50 is in .177
I've spent many hours "playing with " the internals of the mod 50 and come to the conclusion that around the 7.5 fpe mark is the sweet spot for it, fitting an over long titan or ox spring makes it too harsh to hit the target but doesnt do much for power levels. Conclusion i drew is that the bore/stroke combination doesn't provide enough air to increase the power levels much beyond this point
You be surprised aswell how little wear on the loading tap causes leak past.
I’ve just got one of these of a mate of mine. Apart from the nail in the piston seal and half of the proper fittings missing or worn and the stock split down to the breech tap I am dreading trying to figure out how to put that mechanism back together. In theory it looks straight forward but the stories are legendary of kids taking them into their local gun shop in a carrier bag asking for them to put it all back together again! Lol
Great video, very informative! On the power, I think your numbers are about what to expect for these, not overly powerful.Of the top of my head these used the powerplant from the model 35.I have a late 60's Gecado (it seems all branded gecado here in Australia up until time they got name back in early 80's)branded 50 in .177, I dont have a chrony but the way it moves my field targets and penetrates timber it is pretty well the same as a 35, which is only a wee bit more than the 27. There was a magnum t01 version made briefly (ive got one on layby! I will report here once i pick it up)which i think was built on the 45 powerplant and possibly the most powerful underlever made by Diana, its easily identifiable from the extended cocking lever.I dont shoot the old one often, its immaculate and im scared to put much wear on it so shes pretty well just a safe queen! The newer one is well used so i will shoot it instead when i get it. I really love shooting the 27 and 35 much more anyway, just a bit more manageable with the size and weight and the power is more than adequate! I do not posses a more accurate springer than my 27 even my mates much older smoothbore 27 is silly accurate and has never been maintained or re-built, its possibly 80 odd years old, unfortunatly any date marks on butt not legible properly but kind of looks mid 30's.
Obviously im also very interested in the vintage Dianas, all info here i just pulled from memory so i could be wrong on powerplants!
I haven't used a 27 or a 35 before, but I will keep an eye out for one and give it a go if I can get one for a good price. I really like the 25, pretty basic but great fun to shoot, I have a couple of them.
Hello My friend,
Thank you for another great review of a quality airgun. Thank you also for showing the ball trigger mechanism by removing the end cap.
I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, as you may have already done this.
I have a Diana Original Model 35, which my late father left me. I dont think he'd had them long. Dad left me two Model 35's. One was. 177, the other was .22. In memory of my father, I wanted to refurb them and make them the best I could.
I replaced the piston and breech seals. There were no top hats, so I made two out of delrin bar. I sleeved the piston insides and the spring guide. I re assembled, and they work great now, no buzz/twang, thank uou
thank you.
The point of my message is the ball trigger. The ball trigger face tube is stepped at our side. To create a flush fitting face, I cut a piece bar and shaped it to the face of the ball trigger housing. The other end of the bar was square, facing the sash cramps jaw.
I used a correctly sized socket to take pressure off the trigger assembly to knock through the retaining pins so they could be knocked out. I then just wound the sash cramps forward until the spring had no pressure/tension. If at any time there are problems, then have a hole punch ready on standby, to push into the compression chamber, or there abouts. Stay safe!
Great video review, just bought a almost as new early 1950s Diana 50. It was in .177 but the FPE was 6+. I think you FPE in the high 6s is where the gun was new. It’s a target shooter and when it was designed power just wasn’t the issue we make of it now. Agree these are super well made guns! Thanks for the time you spend makes these reviews excellent!
Sounds like a good find. No problem, glad you enjoy the videos.
My father bought a pair of these in the 1970s, a .177 and a .22. I have tested the .22 which gave about 400 fps. I am fairly sure these were all manufactured for compliance with German power limits (7.5 joules/5.5 foot-pounds).
Both the 45 and 50 were well sort after rifles in the late 70's and early 80's both guns were well above the 9ft lb mark and I'm sure they were around 12ft lb, the HW 80 was a death nail in the 45's coffin when it arrived in the early 80's.
He should have fitting the No.1 spring in to get it to full power. I have a 50, and it's a delight to shoot. Only one I enjoy more is the Original model 65; it's a 10m indoor match rifle and just amazing to shoot.
Owned one the power output is target rifle power it was made for target work.. The best way to rebuild with the three ball setup is seat the ball bearings using thick moly grease it holds them in place while you rebuild... They are a great old rifle...
I can remember these rifles in the 70's. They were not a powerhouse for there is too little swept volume for high power. They were advertised with a muzzle velocity of 490 fps in .22. And 690 fps in .177. A later version was made with a slightly higher muzzle velocity but was not as pleasing to look at with a rather square trigger guard and more angular stock.
A BSA Airsporter spring will fit this rifle. But in reality you're only going to see about 7.5 to 8 ft lbs of energy at best in .22 and attempting to extract more will ruin it. I was once offered a British made version of this rifle called a G55 and I kick myself for not buying it!
Many thanks for another great video and a trip down memory lane.
In South Africa it was sold as the Gecado 50 and was much admired by those owning the lesser rifles,I had a Gecado 27.That's why I was surprised to learn of the 50's fairly low power as it had a reputation of being the most powerful of the Gecado line.I think that my 27 was about 650 FPS in .177 so in .177 I'd be expecting a 50 to be about 850 or even more as there was,not sure about now,no legal limit on the power of air guns as they introduced a license for them anyhow.
Just curious why you went with the OX No.3 spring? You should use a No.1 for the model 50. The early ones should be easily around 10fpe, and the last few from the 80s in the mid 11fpe range.
Good video mate , I just dug my original mod 50 out . I read somewhere they are quite low powered even when new. But I,m sure they said it was around 8-9 ft lbs
Evening mate,been watching your video for a few weeks now and watching this one ,original 50,brings back memories of my first sight of one..as kids used to go down town, Sheffield, and would always end up at Suggs sport shop.on The Moor...a shopping parea.loads of guns lined up in racks and there it was the Original 50 ,liked these guns ever since but never managed to get one.....this was in late 50s early 60s. Great video 👍
What problems did you have when you were pitting it back together, was hopeing for a reply, would be good to do a close up video of you putting it back together
Great video and informative i have a Jauary 1971 model in 22 it still works fine and is in great condition
Gonna buy one Diana 50, tank you for the proper explanation. Very very useful
I gave it a damn good clean after i stripped it, the only thing is when i put it together, i didnt seem to put tje trigger mechinism right, dont seem a big deal, just to save time hope you show or tell how ya done it and i also lost one of small bearing balls. The last bit would be good to know how you done it, it will be helpfull and save time
I owned one of these but with four front sights, small blade, large blade, small bead, large bead that could be rotated, with the rear sight also rotating to suite the front sight. I also had a micrometer rear sight which made the rifle very accurate and great fun to use. I wish I still had it!
Sounds like you had a nice example with all the accessories. I'll give you a quote from Tom Gaylord which might make you feel better about missing your Model 50. "Someday, every airgun in your collection is going to belong to someone else. You only own them for a brief period, and then they are on the block once again. Do not fret about this-it is how you got them in the first place."
rw/wgc regarding the low power have you checked the loading port for leakage. put talcum powder on it and fire a pellet if you see a puff of powder this will show a leak .
I have sold the rifle since making this video so unfortunately I can 't test it.
Pretty sure it was working fine! The higher power variant was marketed to have 650ish FPS in .22. The older .177 only shoot about 650, so in .22 the numbers he got seem to be pretty close. They are built on the 35 powerplant which of top of my head is rated 685 in .177, only fractionally more than the model 27's 650. I have all of these (.177, no interest in .22's because crap BC) in my collection, except the t01 50 which im paying of. One day ill buy a chrony and run all of mine through it and make a video.
Which year is this ? i' I have the same. Looking for the year for years...
I had the 50 and the 27 in the 70's in South Africa, both were stamped as GECADO's
Great video, may you please share the Manual download link if possibile? Many thanks
A lot of older guns had leaking taps ,, cheers Shane uk 🇬🇧
I have just purchased a gecado version of this gun.
I believe this name was given to the export models sold in South Africa and Australia.
I have tried several mainsprings and not getting over 500fps in 22.
This version has no plastic apart from the butt pad.
Also the cocking arm is sold steel bar as the trigger is.
Conclusion bloody lovely constructed air rifle.
P.s if you want help putting the trigger group back together there’s a you tube video of I think an Indian gunsmith doing so.
A round of applause for him.
Mate the trigger, tell us how ya dobe it when ya put it back together. I done mines but it did not fire, if ya can tell us, will be greatful
I had a Dianna modle 52, sold it about 5 years ago......I wonder if he will sell it back to me
My first air rifle at age 7 was the model 35. Pa looked after it till I was 11. At age 16 got a model 50 with a scope with Parker Hale ring mounts.
sir I need trigger asmbly daina 50 model do u have
I have a 177 Mod 50 from April 1976 .... gun for life .... owned for 30+ years
I recently added a Diana 35 to my collection. It is my first air rifle. It was given to me by my wife’s cousin. There is no owner manual. I would like to adjust the trigger pull and travel if possible. I see two small screws next to the trigger underside. Are you able to advise me as to how both the adjustment screws work? Thank you:)
Wil it work with out the ball bearings, and when i was putting it back together the bearings were fallibg out, would love to know how you did tje triggr when pitting it all back to gether
How much if I order that kind of airgun.im in philippines.
There shouldn't be plastic bids on a Diana 50 dating 10/67. We got two dating '67 & '68 in .177 and neither got any plastic bids on beside the stock decoration.
A bit of fitting steel tubing filed down to fit and then oil harden, may be better suited tool for those old locking nuts. A large blade screw driver grinned out in the middle as thinned might work as well.
Regarding the leather piston seal screw - that is pinned down with 3mm mild steel pin. If working the screw back holding the piston wrapped in an old towel to protect your hands as provide grip and for for a bit. If this doesn't pop that pin lose you better drill it out then break off the screw holding the seal assembly. Once you done that you can either cut a M3 thread and use a tape screw or you put you faith in loctite 262/270.
If those bearing balls in the cocking system get lose on you, just tack them down with a dab of MOS greese. If the locking action should stay together while striping the rest down, cut some fitting drill rod to about 25-28mm length as take-down pins and everything stays together.
Nice video. It would be good to have a comparison with against a BSA Stutzen.
Good video mate. I have the same rifle as you but its a .177. Sometimes the pressure fails when you fire, ater watching your video i know i must change the spring. Can it be taken out and lubricated and put back in untill one can get a new one. If so please tell me how. Thanks.
A really interesting Rifle..Well made but over complicated unfortunately..Can you get more power out of one say 11 foot pounds with new seals and Spring though?
Hi there, right now i am restoring my old man,s air rifle. A Diana mod 50E. , The first model after the war. one of the 175 models with the " Donor" buttstock(factory).
To answer your struggle with changing the piston head, is that these flathead /tapered screws would have 4 slots from up to down along the screw-thread. If you look on the side of your piston-slide (under the face of the piston) there will be a little pin. if that one is hammered in, your screw will be locked to prevent turning.
Overall it is a verey gentle weapon that needs all treatments to preserve it in good condition, even is my herritage from the 50,s it will be acurate if it comes to the point!
I tested mine today, it's a 1977 .22 gun, l took it PX against a 77 l was selling, it's doing around 560 fps, it's very accurate.
I've got one too and an hw 77 and I need to sell one to raise a little cash,can't make my mind up which to sell, 77 is probs more value and 50 has sentimental value,but the 77 is a good hunter if I ever needed one..which would you prefer to lose?
@@jerryadams4449 Definitely the 77 is a much better rifle, 77 and 97s are the best Weihrauch's made, 80s are also good esp if want 18ft/lb but not as accurate as above,
Any idea of the age and value?
this video will help me a lot...i disassembled my gun and couldn't figure out how it all goes together ...thx mate
Get yourself a copy of 'Spring Powered Air Rifle and Pistol Maintenance'. It's a great book and explains (with pictures) how to disassemble and reassemble the Model 50.
Gecado 50 in Jhb South Africa❤
Mine needs a service and barrel is slightly bent.😥
5.5 22s or 5.6 22s?
I need identification help . I have a Diana with no model # on it . it very close to your model 50 however the stock stops around the pellet loading area , any ideas?
Mate can you do a vid of atripping and putting it back to gether that would be helpful
Don't bother trying it , it's the trigger mechanism that's complicated, The ball bearings keep falling out
When you start assembling it
@@malcolmjames7388 will it still work with out the ball bearings
Rws diana Airrifiles = How to checking (original or duplicate ) how to find out sir ? 👍
Very well explained and a detailed look into the past history of air guns.
Vortek Piston Seal, new standard mainspring and new barrel seal should do it. No grease on the piston! I use molybdänsulfite. Did that with Diana 27 from 1957. shoots excellent.
I liked your video a lot. I want the gun as well. I have a BSA model D. what is being repaired by John knibbs.
however I do have a question. how would you mount a scope to that gun as it has non-standard mounts? I am not talented enough to make mounts for it.
+Joshua Gregory I've never put a scope on it so I'm not 100% sure. I believe the rail was designed for a Diana/Original diopter sight, however I have seen other Model 50s with scopes mounted, and they look like they are put on using standard 11mm dovetail mounts.
Air Armoury thank you not responding. Curious to find out if it was possible with modern technology. I do prefer shooting the older airguns.
Recently found your channel. Annoyed what you are doing.
+Joshua Gregory I definitely prefer older airguns as well. Annoyed what I'm doing?
+Air Armoury apologize I am dyslexic voice recognition. I like what you doing keep it up.
+Joshua Gregory Thanks.
Great review. I have just been given one of these and can't wait to try it out, and then give it some tender living care!
Sounds good. Enjoy it, it's a great rifle.
I am interested to know. How do you know what air rifle is 12 ft/lbs because getting a licence is too much hassle. Just help me, is there a way to look at the specs of it and know if its 12 ft/lbs?
+Rapid Steve The best way to check the power is with a chronograph, but I appreciate that not everyone has one, and you may not be able to check a rifle before you buy it. Usually a guns specification will give it's FPS. You can use this to work out it's power using the following calculation (pellet weight in grains X fps X fps, then divide that number 450240). It is also worth remembering that in England and Wales you cannot buy/sell a rifle 12ft/lbs+ over the counter without an Firearms Certificate (licence). All air guns for general sale are slightly below that limit. Even guns that are made abroad and are higher power, have to be reduced in power before they are imported. Hope this helps.
I got one of these,immaculate condition,I don't use it now, but I think this is one of the best looking air rifles out there...like to see this in a gas ram version,and to load a pellet in the loading tap is superb,no bear trap on this rifle ? Great video by the way thanks
Don’t need a bear trap with a tap loader.
it airgun .177 or .22 ??==
put some washers on the back of the spring to compress it more you should get mote power
I’m really thinking of having one myself. Stunning looking Air Rifle. Mark Solware Tv
Cómo puedo desarmar el rifle modelo 50 Diana Alemán
Diana 460 magnum .177 ka use busshnel 3-9x40 scope best or not best sir?
Very best sir
I think the low power may be attributable to the 5.6mm pellets used. This is a continental gun made in metric ( 5.5mm) . 5.6mm is too big and would have had too much resistance. Only the old British guns had true 5.588mm .22 barrels. ( plus one or two obscure makes).
Great video buddy. My old Dad (83yrs old) was telling me about an "Original" .22 under lever that he bought in 1955 when he was 19yrs old. He can't remember what the exact model number but he really enjoyed your indepth video and information. Thank you.
I am after a Model 50 E or M if anyone is selling a good one?
hi . where can I buy a spring , plunger / seal for this Springer?
Where do you live? In the UK I use 'T W Chambers' or 'John Knibbs International', try googling them.
Great video! I own a 2005 .177 Diana 350 magnum. This one looks even bigger. Greetings.
Yeah it's a decent size gun. The 350 magnum is a nice rifle.
I want that please help me to gating this air rifal. I love it's finishing, i would thankful for your help.
Please you reparatioan diana 35
I have a Diana 55 under lever realy good condition and would love to know what it's worth
Alan Rosa
Nice video :).
Which part of the uk do you live in? just curious
+Gaming Nation Aggravation - Reviews | Gaming I'm in East Sussex.
Sir Diana 460 magnum .177 caliber = rabbit 🐰 hunting useful or not useful sir ?
Yes, but .22 is better.
Had one in the 80's and gave it my brother in law, still regret it.
Yeah it's a nice gun. I have since sold my, but thankfully I don't regret it.
How many joules has this rifle? 20?
Good evening. . I recently received a "bb gun" as a house warming present from a friend little did she know that it happens to be a Diana Model 1 rifle i stamped made in Great Britain... i would like to know if it is a rare find in South africa?
is it multipump air rifle?
+Destario Shawn No it's not a multipump pneumatic, it's an underlever spring piston rifle.
+Air Armoury owhh , it's hard to find that in my country , just a little . love the sights
What country are you in?
+Air Armoury indonesia
Are air guns popular over there?
What is the price in india. Please answer
چقدر هندو بوگدو آههه غذاهای .کثیف خوردائه
how much did you pay for your model 50?
+Urban Prepper UK As I said towards the end of the video, I paid £160 for the rifle.
Ok thanks, i didnt see that bit. great video btw! :)
+Urban Prepper UK Thanks.
it's in nice nic for a 1967 airgun, thanks for posting
+Ian Jordan Yeah it's in pretty good shape. Thanks for the comment.
My fave air riffle..... DIANA... Accurated, powerfull and very simple to used
nice review marra,i have a model 52 classic its a nice rifle in 1.77
Thanks. The model 52 is a great rifle.
I love the mod 50, I have five of them, One is 4.5mm cal, Rest are 5.5mm, One of them is a type 01 which I sold years ago and then got the chance to buy back in 2019!
One of the 5.5mm ones is in bits, Has been for years, I'll have to get the balls greased and rebuild it!!
Enjoying your vids btw 👍😎
Excellent video.. 👍
sorry mate its 10 67 ....10 th week of 1967,i am tuning restoring and updating the seal right now.
Thanks for the info, I had just assumed it was 10th month.
I believe it’s the 10th month, I believe you’re correct.
Germany has a low ft pound energy law for air weapons. When they export the power is up to 12ft lbs UK . 15+ USA
Thanks for the dating tip!...
nice instructive vid .. that rifle would look brilliant hung up on me wall , with others in collection ..
+Mark Homer Yeah it's a great looking gun. I like the idea of hanging a gun or two on the wall, but for me personally I think guns need to be shot rather than displayed.
I'm the happy owner of a Diana 50 in .177. It has no iron sights, but a 4x32 scope. I paid 80 euro for it 10 years ago.
+juliesfar They are great guns, and it sounds like you got a great deal on one. Most are in .22 so it's cool to have a .177. Out of interest, how did you fix your scope and what kind of mounts did you use?
+Air Armoury : I bought it with the scope. It's mounted in the slots on the top with a claw-like scope mount. I don't know what it is called.
+juliesfar Thanks for getting back to me, sounds like it's held on with standard dovetail mounts.
bought one of these for £20 about 8 or so years ago off a friend, only just looked up the name and model
Wasp pellets at 5.6mm will not be helping you they are more suited to BSA or Webley guns of that era. German guns had a tighter boring for .22 at 5.5mm, you'd be better suited to buy RWS or another European made pellet or Wasps in 5.5mm, though I don't know if they still make 2 sizes.
great video, keep up the good work
Your rifle for sale
Nice review......Thumbs up......I subscribed your channel.....I hope that i get my Diana Mod 50 in .177 next week.......Greetings from Germany
Thanks for the comment and subscription. Have fun with your Model 50 when you get it.
How to import in India, and what is about Indian currency. Please
maybe the newer spring you installed is just not as good, or the replacement seal is not quite as snug as the original, who knows.......but never the less, and interesting video as always..... :).....some times the newer option is not always the better option....... :/
+davescorpion Thanks for another comment. You could be right as the parts are modern replacements, not originals made by the same manufacturer as the gun.
I always say, if it was made for the gun, it has to be better, but in these days of technology, nothing would surprise me.......
Nice review, the power is so low, because in germany it is only allowed to 7.5 joule energy and its doesn't matter pistol or rifle :-)
Regards Thomas
And i don't know how much joule this rifle can handle, without breaking it, with a other spring, to have the lawful 16.2 Joule in the uk.
Regards Thomas
Thanks for the comment, I guess that makes sense and explains the lack of power. Much appreciated.
Hello, that is not correct this rifle must have more power, it was build in 1967. The regulation with 7.5 joule is since 1970....At this time the airguns in Germany have a F Logo in a Pentagon for free selling to people older than 18 years ......with more power (no regulation) and without a F-Logo (when they are build after 1970) you can have these guns in Germany only with a hunting license or a sportshooter license. The Diana Mod 50 have a speed in .22 Caliber from ca. 600 FPS and in .177 from ca. 745 FPS. I think there is something wrong with the rifle or the new custum parts........sorry for my bad english......Greetings from Germany Sascha
Thanks for your comment, this is really interesting. I did think the power should have been higher. I have sold the rifle since making this video so unfortunately I can no longer take it apart to investigate.
Good stuff ladd..😎❤
I had the 177 version of this, very accurate and a decent range, excellent for shooting rabbits
I cant think of anything other than that the leather seal should be well soaked with oil . I think that these rifles lose a bit of air through the loading port and the transfer port is long; plus i bet that the stroke is rather short which all in all steal some velocity . But it is a beautiful old rifle nevertheless.
Yeah it is a lovely gun. I soaked the new leather seal before I put it in so that shouldn't have been a problem. It does have quite a short stroke. I have sold the rifle since making this video so unfortunately I can 't investigate further.
not normal 3 in 1 oil for the seal neatsfoot oil from any shop selling horse tackle etc,,,or ebay lol dave
Hi
I have Dina 50 cal 177
My late father owned an Original. 22 in the 60's.A policeman friend "worked", on it and made very powerful.He demonstrated it by shooting a pigeon for his office in South Norwood police station.He killed it and rushed out to retrieve it.Before he got there,my dad saw a Chinese take away guy take it into his restaurant.True story. 😂😂😂
I have Diana model 50
Nice looking rifle complicated and liw power ....always wanted one but now convinced I dont