TRICK to install TIRES with RIMLOCK and TUBE the EASY WAY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2018
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My 10 cents: inflate the tube just a bit, then bump with the wheel all around so it settles the tube within the tire and then inflate it to the final pressure.
Nice trick man! Hey great idea for the tire stand. You should make a video on that if you haven't already
nicely done
thanks for the tip
What’s the best tire for everything in your opinion, I ride rocks, mud, track, and trails, some days it’s dry and some soaking wet
starcross michelin
When do you tighten the rim lock. Before or after inflating?
After
thats how i and all my friends do it
why would you mount a rim lock on a Front wheel?
Heavy breaking low pressure
@@vegasromaniac OK, like really Hard Enduro.....
That disk was screaming
O Dear God No, Arr. Interesting idea, But this implementation is NOT a good example by any means.
If you have NO other choice than this, Use extreme care or else you'll damage your Rim, Bead, Tube and or Rim Lock. DON'T DO THIS if you have Alloy Rims, I promise you'll regret it soon enough.
Correct fitment is as follows. (SOAPY WATER RECOMMENDED FOR BEAD FITMENT)
1. Ensure rim is clean (No rust or oxidization{If alloy}) Clean and repaint as/or if it is necessary.
2. Ensure correct placement of rubber spoke end cover around rim.
3. Fit First bead onto rim.
4. Insert Rim Lock into tyre and insert bolt through appropriate hole for rim lock bolt, screw nut on until just below top of rim lock bolt.
5. Fit in FULLY DEFLATED Tube into tyre and fit stem through it's hole and screw on nut a few threads below the valves end.
6.Starting NEAR the rim lock, Begin fitting last bead onto the rim while ensuring tube is NOT being pinched between bead and rim.
7. When beads are in place, Push Valve Stem in and do the same for the Rim Lock to ensure they are correctly positioned.
8. Gently inflate tyre to low pressure and squeeze side walls of tyre to ensure tube is not pinched.
9. Inflate tyre to correct pressure and ensure correct location of the beads on the rim.
10. The job should be complete after the nuts on the Valve Stem and Rim Lock are tightened firmly (Don't need to be super man when you tighten them up though).
Last Step. Check over everything and when satisfied refit wheel to bike.
Work on a LOW, FLAT & LEVEL SURFACE WHEN USING HAND TOOLS. WRAP TAPE AROUND The Tools To Prevent Marking Rims "if need be!"
Be EXTREMELY gentle if you are working with an Alloy Rim, You don't want to leave tool marks in/on it. They'll look ugly and "MAY" Damage your tyre OR affect how the next tyre replacement will go.
My own personal advice is to use short hand tools that are less than 30cm/12inch in length and as flat as possible. (tyre levers tend to have ridges along their length that will leave dents in the edges of most rims)
Angle grinder Nut tools are quite a good thing to use, they are also thin and strong enough to lift the bead without bending OR denting any rims. (However, use caution please) Also you'll need 2 of them.
BTW, This is good advice, But I don't know everything so do what you like, I'm only sharing good advice. Take it or leave it.
Tyre changes at a descent tyre shop won't cost much at all, "IF" you are worried you might mess the task up.
Get the tyre shop to change it (they DO HAVE warranty {By Law} on their work) Might be worth it perhaps.
Cheers everyone I hope this may help. Never the less, Wish you all the best of luck!
My bottom line is: I want EVERYONE to be safe and sound after attempting/doing a tyre change job.
No need to die needlessly because of a botched tyre change. Just trying to look out for you all, that's all!
P.s I mean NO OFFENCE to anyone, I just got a bit worried after this video is all. Sorry.
BTW to my first comment.
Working on a ground level surface Will Help to prevent buckling of a rim, Don't be afraid to us A foot to stabilize the wheel and tyre (If needed). HOWEVER, DON'T PUT FEET AND OR PRESSURE ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF RIM, Buckling of the rim WILL LIKELY RESULT.
Sorry I've worked in a tyre shop for 3.5 years, So that's were I'm coming from.
Hand tools are MY preferred choice with motor cycle tyres with everything being said so far.
Also I hate rusty rims because some people expect them to be fixable when they are already beyond repair. Sand blasting and paint can't fix the unfixable after all.
Edit: Corrected some spelling.
Thanks for your step x step write up. very clear and informative. I'm a bit lost on what what things in particular you had concerns about. the long lever? The bolting to the bench? (that worried me a bit, specially the amount of leverage required, for example,with narrow rear tires with stiff carcasses. I can imagine the rim never being quite true ever again.
Thanks for taking the time to give some advice. I’ve pinched 2 tubes in a day. Going to try one more time and if I can’t get it I’m going to call a local tire shop to have them complete it for me