Excellent and exceptional on explaining. Love it when I can do a job without paying someone who will charge me a high rate. Jus to do a simple job. Salute you on submitting video. You woke up the old school mechanic in me. Lol
Good tip but no joy. I had a long start, no start issue and I’ve tried everything to avoid a Injector service; Replaced the FCA, replaced the “pressure relief valve”, ran off straight SeaFoam, the only thing that had an effect was a fresh engine oil change. Started right up fairly quick. My next step is I added HotShot Diesel extreme in the gas tank and HotShot Stiction eliminator in the engine oil and took the wife on a long drive. Bought this 2007 Ram Cummins 5.9 last year with 201k and Once I get things running good I’m gonna give MM3Tuning a shot.
Good video, but specs call for two-stage torque procedure, first 27 in/lb then 62 in/lb which should be included for accuracy. I don't know how critical that is, but I did it out of prudence.
Also a crank no start if you think it is the issue just unplug it and if it fires right up then it's that FCA that helped me find the problem I didn't have any engine codes nothing wouldn't even run off ether
Hello I have a 2006 dodge 2500 5.9 and I been having this problem so start the truck starts normal when I start driving I feel like it stops accelerating 2 or 3 seconds and it resumes accelerating it does this a few times once I get to 40 or 50 mph drives normal but if I spot at are’s light or I get traffic in the highway it does the same thing replace fuel filter then replace fuel pump and it still doing it I gladly appreciate any help thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have a problem with a 2004 (143,000 mi.), loosing power going up steep hills while towing a 10,000 lb trailer. May be defueling. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, JB San Diego.
I had that wait to start light as well would come on while driving down the road rough idle to. And those same codes. Turns out 2 of my solenoids on my Injectors were shot and a couple leaking fuel tubes. Shes good as new now.
Hey Rob, awesome video! I was just driving and got the grid heater light in my 06 (I guess that's wait to start ish for 06+) then I restarted it after a quick walk around checking for leaks In the rail. And it turned right off, do you think this could cause that? I have a slight rough idle when the truck is warm, not like a miss just like surging a little. Also I heard that it's common for manual trucks more so than auto
The leak is usually in the return side of the injector loop so we'll leak back into your fuel tank not on the ground it's not something you can see. You can try retorting the crossover tubes to 45 ft lb and see if that helps but my guess is you'll probably need a new set of injectors.
My truck shows zero signs of worn or tired injectors. No haze, no smoke other than fuel, no uneven temperatures out of exhaust manifold all cylinders are in check. No making oil, no smoking even if I unplug the fca (for a few seconds)
Honestly I'm not sure. I bought a Chinese fca which is what's in the video and it caused me more problems. I ended up putting the old one back in and haven't had any issues since.
JUST got my 1st diesel & the "glow plugs" light (yeah, I know, Cummins don't have them, but it was the exact same symbol my dad's old Mercedes diesel) came on & stayed on (with 10 chimes) while driving to SoCal from Phoenix...doesn't seem to have reduced power (Cruise set at 80 most of the way home), no noticeable smoke or haze, but also no load...not holding you to a diagnosis but could this be the FCA?
Update: I had the 6-beep variety & replaced the relay for the grid heater which fixed that problem. Got a box-tuner & then started getting the 10-beep version with this warning light. Just replaced the FCA today. Thanks, this video was super helpful. Seems to have fixed the issue (yes, the old FCA seemed gummed up & didn't have the proper rattle).
Great vid. Let me ask this, what is the normal fuel rail pressure you see at idle and is it steady? My gauge reads around 6-7k. Sometimes when I come to a stop, it will drop down to 1.5k and then shoot up to 21k before it settles. But it really isn't a smooth idle.
Brenden Reed, tell me something please. I have an 07 with the 5.9. I've had it about 6 months now. I tow a 11,000 lb fifth wheel with it. While the engine was still completely stock I started have a surge when I was just starting out at around 1300 rpm. Changed out fuel filter a couple of times. Didn't seem to help. Installed a FASS system a while later. Didn't help. Replaced the FCA last week. Didn't help. Any ideals??????
You think it could get stuck open cause I idle my trucks running 7500-8000 psi fuel pressure and has an issue starting but runs fine when it get going and I believe it’s supposed to be at 5500-6000psi
So the FCA did help the truck crank up now but my truck is still a little slow turning over only think I haven replaced is my cp3 pump and it starting to knock the (cp3 so I’m sure after I replace it it will be fine but the fca was a big help
@@adambrison6028 can't remember if it did or not. I'm definitely getting a fluctuation in fuel pressure. I took of the connector and re plug it in, and the pressure was level. Then, an hr later, fluctuating again. Unplugged it and cleaned again and pushed the female connector tighter. Plugged it back in and it went level again. Everything is very inconsistent to figure out what is going on. I will see if it does this again
@@adambrison6028 it's been awhile since I had this out. I rebuilt this hpfp and think it did rattle. Now it seems like the low rail pressure is coming on with extreme acceleration. This is the best it has been, since it would go low rail with just a raise in the road. Still lacking power. I may try a new FCV, but have to see what this does on the highway. The most I could do before was 64 mph, then the low rail would show up and fuel pressure would dive.
Nice Vid. Just a word to the wise...the T25 bolts in these have a very shallow socket in the head. If you end up using a bunch of adapters to reach the bolts, you could be tipping the T25 off axis and get very little engagement to the fastener. Ask me how i know this? Well, I have a much nicer easy-out set, and a new right angle drill for my adventures. Do yourself(or the next guy) a favor when you stop to get beer to do this job, also stop and get three M4x20mm SHCS (socket head cap screws). If this ever needs to be replaced again, the ball end Allen wrench will make this a simple change. BTW- mine wasn't throwing codes, just idled rough when it got really cold. After putting the new one in, I cant believe how smooth it idles now:)
The most valuable comment here. I swapped mine with a cheap Chinese one a month ago, it was bad out of the box and I put the old one back in. I bought the Bosch one and went to swap it today and the torx bolts are starting to strip out. Now I’m sitting here having a beer, waiting for the JB weld to cure with 3 T-25’s in in the torx heads 🤞
I know it’s an old video, but here I am. . . . According to the flow of diagnostics in AllData’s repair info, disconnecting the FCA electrical plug actually defaults the fuel pressure to low. When the driver in the ecu activates the FCA, the fuel pressure increases.
That’s what I thought as well, it’s kind of confusing to me. Trying to diagnose a crank, no start condition. Got into my AllData. This is what it’s showing me, and it’s a copy/paste 9. HIGH PRESSURE DELIVERY PUMP PERFORMANCE TEST 1. Turn the engine off. 2. Remove the (9012) and reinstall the banjo connector. (this is part of the diagnostic flow from checking the prv) 3. Disconnect the Fuel Control Actuator harness connector. 4. Disconnect high pressure fuel line from the fuel rail and route the high pressure fuel line into a graduated cylinder. 5. Crank the engine until fuel exits this line. This will not be high pressure fuel. 6. Crank the engine for three 10 second intervals. Looks like it’s saying that it wont be high pressure with the FCA harness disconnected ? Honestly just looking for some guidance from folks like you who’ve dealt with this.
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what a great video! subscribed. Not many videos on the FCA, and none with the detailed, concise content you provide, well done and ty, sir!
Excellent and exceptional on explaining. Love it when I can do a job without paying someone who will charge me a high rate. Jus to do a simple job. Salute you on submitting video. You woke up the old school mechanic in me. Lol
Your so informative, you've taught me so much about the fuel system in my truck in just a few minutes.
easy fix not for me I have broke 2 T25 trox bits any suggestions.
Well Done on the Video and explanation of this procedure. Helped me out a lot and got me back on the road.
Good tip but no joy. I had a long start, no start issue and I’ve tried everything to avoid a Injector service; Replaced the FCA, replaced the “pressure relief valve”, ran off straight SeaFoam, the only thing that had an effect was a fresh engine oil change. Started right up fairly quick. My next step is I added HotShot Diesel extreme in the gas tank and HotShot Stiction eliminator in the engine oil and took the wife on a long drive.
Bought this 2007 Ram Cummins 5.9 last year with 201k and Once I get things running good I’m gonna give MM3Tuning a shot.
Good video, but specs call for two-stage torque procedure, first 27 in/lb then 62 in/lb which should be included for accuracy. I don't know how critical that is, but I did it out of prudence.
Thanks for your video. I helped me out a lot.
Really good job explaining
do you need to relieve the fuel pressure if it was currently running before removing fca
Also a crank no start if you think it is the issue just unplug it and if it fires right up then it's that FCA that helped me find the problem I didn't have any engine codes nothing wouldn't even run off ether
Thanks for the video.
Did it fix your problem?
Awesome Vid, tyvm!!!
How loud should the rattle be ? I’m checking mine now, it has a very little rattle
Good job. Thnx for the vid 👊
When energised will this valve fully close?
Hello I have a 2006 dodge 2500 5.9 and I been having this problem so start the truck starts normal when I start driving I feel like it stops accelerating 2 or 3 seconds and it resumes accelerating it does this a few times once I get to 40 or 50 mph drives normal but if I spot at are’s light or I get traffic in the highway it does the same thing replace fuel filter then replace fuel pump and it still doing it I gladly appreciate any help thanks.
What symptoms of the failure did u get?
How much shorter would the life of the fuel pump be, I have 189,000 on a 2015
i love cummins! try doing that on a 6.7 powerstroke or duramax!
Thanks for the video. I have a problem with a 2004 (143,000 mi.), loosing power going up steep hills while towing a 10,000 lb trailer. May be defueling. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, JB San Diego.
Did it fix the problem?
So clean under the hood lol
Thank you
I had that wait to start light as well would come on while driving down the road rough idle to. And those same codes. Turns out 2 of my solenoids on my Injectors were shot and a couple leaking fuel tubes. Shes good as new now.
Hey Rob, awesome video! I was just driving and got the grid heater light in my 06 (I guess that's wait to start ish for 06+) then I restarted it after a quick walk around checking for leaks In the rail. And it turned right off, do you think this could cause that? I have a slight rough idle when the truck is warm, not like a miss just like surging a little. Also I heard that it's common for manual trucks more so than auto
I have a g56
The leak is usually in the return side of the injector loop so we'll leak back into your fuel tank not on the ground it's not something you can see. You can try retorting the crossover tubes to 45 ft lb and see if that helps but my guess is you'll probably need a new set of injectors.
My truck shows zero signs of worn or tired injectors. No haze, no smoke other than fuel, no uneven temperatures out of exhaust manifold all cylinders are in check. No making oil, no smoking even if I unplug the fca (for a few seconds)
Does the Mm3 do balance rates on the injectors?
On 06+ trucks it will show balance rates
Did this fix your issue?
I have a early 04 coughs & bucks & shutters @ 1900- 2000 RPMs under loads, then gutless above 2,000 RPMs.
Honestly I'm not sure. I bought a Chinese fca which is what's in the video and it caused me more problems. I ended up putting the old one back in and haven't had any issues since.
Sounds like you have an animal under the hood
Me too
why you didn't show when you Tightening it up , ??
JUST got my 1st diesel & the "glow plugs" light (yeah, I know, Cummins don't have them, but it was the exact same symbol my dad's old Mercedes diesel) came on & stayed on (with 10 chimes) while driving to SoCal from Phoenix...doesn't seem to have reduced power (Cruise set at 80 most of the way home), no noticeable smoke or haze, but also no load...not holding you to a diagnosis but could this be the FCA?
Update: I had the 6-beep variety & replaced the relay for the grid heater which fixed that problem. Got a box-tuner & then started getting the 10-beep version with this warning light. Just replaced the FCA today. Thanks, this video was super helpful. Seems to have fixed the issue (yes, the old FCA seemed gummed up & didn't have the proper rattle).
Hope that fixes you up, if not I have injectors for sale at 5-9diesel.com
I just finished mine
Great vid. Let me ask this, what is the normal fuel rail pressure you see at idle and is it steady? My gauge reads around 6-7k. Sometimes when I come to a stop, it will drop down to 1.5k and then shoot up to 21k before it settles. But it really isn't a smooth idle.
Tony Bell idle should be around 6k. If it’s bouncing around the fca is more than likely bad.
Brenden Reed, tell me something please. I have an 07 with the 5.9. I've had it about 6 months now. I tow a 11,000 lb fifth wheel with it. While the engine was still completely stock I started have a surge when I was just starting out at around 1300 rpm. Changed out fuel filter a couple of times. Didn't seem to help. Installed a FASS system a while later. Didn't help. Replaced the FCA last week. Didn't help. Any ideals??????
Dennis Denison that’s probably signs of weak injectors
Dennis I bet you could benefit from my custom tuning. Do you have an auto trans? www.mm3tuning.com
You think it could get stuck open cause I idle my trucks running 7500-8000 psi fuel pressure and has an issue starting but runs fine when it get going and I believe it’s supposed to be at 5500-6000psi
Same issue I’m about to replace mines today I’ll let you know how it goes
So the FCA did help the truck crank up now but my truck is still a little slow turning over only think I haven replaced is my cp3 pump and it starting to knock the (cp3 so I’m sure after I replace it it will be fine but the fca was a big help
How can you test this part? Electronically part is in cp3 70 in a sprinter 2.7
Fuel Control Valve
Shake it see if it rattles
@@adambrison6028 can't remember if it did or not. I'm definitely getting a fluctuation in fuel pressure. I took of the connector and re plug it in, and the pressure was level. Then, an hr later, fluctuating again. Unplugged it and cleaned again and pushed the female connector tighter. Plugged it back in and it went level again. Everything is very inconsistent to figure out what is going on.
I will see if it does this again
@@frontlinemedia4270 take it out and shake it see if it rattles or not
@@frontlinemedia4270 ratting is good.
@@adambrison6028 it's been awhile since I had this out. I rebuilt this hpfp and think it did rattle. Now it seems like the low rail pressure is coming on with extreme acceleration. This is the best it has been, since it would go low rail with just a raise in the road. Still lacking power. I may try a new FCV, but have to see what this does on the highway. The most I could do before was 64 mph, then the low rail would show up and fuel pressure would dive.
Nice Vid. Just a word to the wise...the T25 bolts in these have a very shallow socket in the head. If you end up using a bunch of adapters to reach the bolts, you could be tipping the T25 off axis and get very little engagement to the fastener. Ask me how i know this? Well, I have a much nicer easy-out set, and a new right angle drill for my adventures. Do yourself(or the next guy) a favor when you stop to get beer to do this job, also stop and get three M4x20mm SHCS (socket head cap screws). If this ever needs to be replaced again, the ball end Allen wrench will make this a simple change. BTW- mine wasn't throwing codes, just idled rough when it got really cold. After putting the new one in, I cant believe how smooth it idles now:)
The most valuable comment here. I swapped mine with a cheap Chinese one a month ago, it was bad out of the box and I put the old one back in. I bought the Bosch one and went to swap it today and the torx bolts are starting to strip out. Now I’m sitting here having a beer, waiting for the JB weld to cure with 3 T-25’s in in the torx heads 🤞
I only bought a Chinese sensor once 😂 never do that again.
@@DieselCamper I’ve definitely learned my lesson on the cheap Chinese parts 🤦♂️
I Haven't found one VID, On, step by step, W / SYMPTOMS, & After changing out the part, & showing the - FIX....
I know it’s an old video, but here I am. . . . According to the flow of diagnostics in AllData’s repair info, disconnecting the FCA electrical plug actually defaults the fuel pressure to low. When the driver in the ecu activates the FCA, the fuel pressure increases.
I don't think that's how it works in reality. Unplug the Fca and your rail will max out👌
That’s what I thought as well, it’s kind of confusing to me. Trying to diagnose a crank, no start condition. Got into my AllData. This is what it’s showing me, and it’s a copy/paste
9. HIGH PRESSURE DELIVERY PUMP PERFORMANCE TEST
1. Turn the engine off.
2. Remove the (9012) and reinstall the banjo connector. (this is part of the diagnostic flow from checking the prv)
3. Disconnect the Fuel Control Actuator harness connector.
4. Disconnect high pressure fuel line from the fuel rail and route the high pressure fuel line into a graduated cylinder.
5. Crank the engine until fuel exits this line. This will not be high pressure fuel.
6. Crank the engine for three 10 second intervals.
Looks like it’s saying that it wont be high pressure with the FCA harness disconnected ? Honestly just looking for some guidance from folks like you who’ve dealt with this.
Genos has the OEM FCA.
Geno's is a great resource for 3rd gen stuff!
When I plug in the FCA Cummins QSL9 automatically shut down
Bad wiring or bad FCA?
@@DieselCamper just discovered the fuel pressure sensor on the common rail is faulty I changed another one and problem solved
Cummins does sell them in ohio at least. They're 170 bucks.
Hmmmm, What have been SO, KOOL, if you had started HER UP,
So we can HEAR the difference,
or even gone for a TEST DRIVE....
🤔🙄
I got mine from O'Reilly's for 225$
The cheap china knock off where do you think it all comes from china