Might be worth checking the oil feed pipes as well. There's several videos on TH-cam explaining how oil starvation of the turbo due to blocked pipes can eventually seize or snap turbo shafts. All because of lack of regular maintenance / oils changes.
Thank you for this, finally found a guide I can use to install an anti surge core for my K04. Unfortunately this didn't show in a search for k04/03 core replacement. Found it via a forum
Diagnose dan did a turbo replacement recently and the oil feed pipe connected to the turbo itself was blocked. Unlikely this has happened to yours because of all that smoke but it’s worth a look.
I would recommend to clean all the pipes and intercooler as well, and before you strart the engine with just fitted turbo inject a bit of oil in that new cartridge or turn over the engine with starter for 10-12 seconda without startind the engine
Excellent video showing the internal workings of a turbocharger, a common item that is fitted to most cars these days but most people are not even aware they have one or what it does until it goes bang! Nice to see that they can be rebuilt and the core is available as a service part. Looks like you caught this one in time before the engine lunched on it! Keep up the good work with the channel, hope the RS4 rebuild gives you some good news soon 🤞🤞🤞
Someone at work his turbo blew up, I reckoned the waste gate stuck closed, caused the turbo to spin to destruction. The garage found the waste gate actuator had stuck, so my guess was correct!
Good to see somebody who knows the workings and looks for other parts that can also be faulty, plus then replaces them. I hope things go well for you over this lockdown. 👍🏽😎
I really enjoy your videos, you are working on cars which the most of us can afford and pick up on common faults and how to over come them. I'm sick and tired of looking at videos made by supercar test pilots. Keep up the good work.
I’d love to see you do the cam belt and water pump on this (2.0 TFSi) in detail and.... do you have any tips on reducing or removing the build-up of carbon on the inlet side of these direct injection engines? I really enjoy your videos, great to see a VAG specialist who’s not afraid to get stuck in, thank you and stay safe.
Best way to remove the carbon build up is walnut blasting, I recently had my Leon 2.0TFSI done after 68500k , it's made a significant difference to the responsiveness of the engine and has probably restored something like 20-30bhp based on videos I've seen where they dyno'd it before and after.
@@pdk60 thank you, it’s wishful thinking on my behalf that a remedy as effective as yours could be had without removing too much. I’ve owned my A3 for 11.5 yrs and only at 32k miles, definitely not as responsive as it was. I’d have thought that with so many direct injections out there now that a less invasive solution would have been found. I seem to remember Ed China promoting something, Terraclean? Removing everything and going back to bare metal as you’ve done is I guess the only certain way, thanks again.
@@f1kwa399 Removing the intake/inlet is the only way to properly clean off the baked on carbon deposits in the ports and on the valves, and then either by blasting or to manually soak the ports in carbon cleaner and scrape the deposits off. All the videos where they spray products like Seafoam into the inlet will help to keep carbon from building up on a clean inlet in the first place, but have minimal effect on the thick carbon that's already there. Terraclean and other services like hydrogen cleaning will only work on the combustion chamber and exhaust side of the engine, they have no effect on the inlet side. My walnut blasting cost £320, the price range for this is around £300 to £800 depending on the engine and how many cylinders.
@@f1kwa399 terraclean will not work atall and will simply be a utter waste of money on a direct injection engine such as the tfsi... A normal engine the injectors are right above the valves in the cylinder head so the valves are constantly washed with fuel keeping them clean and terraclean could perhaps have a chance at cleaning them more as it's sprayed through the injectors... Direct injection the injectors are in the side of the cylinder block spraying directly into the cylinder (direct injection) this may produce abit more power but there's no way for the valves to be cleaned with fuel or any additives the only thing that'll be getting cleaned Is the cylinder which will be a waste of money again, you can do it yourself pretty well with a bottle brush and some engine safe chemicals to remove the carbon
@@pdk60 interesting, thank you, I tried Seafoam a few years ago, did nothing on the A3 as you say, if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get your walnut blasting done? Incidentally, I used Seafoam on a RAV4 and it cleaned the carbon from the piston crowns well but not as effective as water injection, just saying, not that I’d try it on the Audi. Did you have to remove the head to blast the ports, I can’t imagine how they’d do it any other way?
Interesting. On My 3.0 Kia Sedona , if I give it some gas then let go you can hear the wastegate or dump valve whistle as the air is not needed. Mine has a massive turbo from factory so got lots of lag but massive torque love it
3:20 The oil feed is the one on the top. The big banjo you can see facing the bulkhead is a coolant line and there's another one on the other side of the CHRA.
Make sure you change the oil and filter before running or you will be fitting a 2nd new core as all that broken shaft debris has gone down the drain pipe and is in the oil.
Possibly Over Kill was thinking as you had access to the actuator and the hoses thought maybe both could have been replaced, while you had the unit on the bench... great up load, if you were to flip it on in the future one could show the work done... again great upload...
Yeh... you should just replace the oil pipe as turbo's are generally very reliable and only normally break when a component feeding the turbo malfunctions (such as the oil pipes). I would replace this whilst you are doing the job of fixing the turbo.
It’s necessary to replace the oil feed an return pipes when you do a turbo or else you’ll end up with another failed turbo really really quickly. And the warranty will be void by not changing them.
Not sure how much your CHRA cost, but K03 turbos are reliable as wood burning stoves and only die with lack of oil pressure and overspeeding. With a potentially blocked pickup and a torn DV you may have had both. That said, full K03s can be had for 100 quid or less. My worry is that your compressor wheel was absolutely munted which means it's been running against the compressor cover and sending metal fragments through the charge pressure circuit along with the ridiculous amounts of oil. I'd recommend replacing the intercooler and charge pipework.
I’ve ordered a new pick up pipe too, also checked the intake, no metal fragments seen, the compressor wheel just seems to have bent. No sign of fragments anyway.
Hi dean another brilliant video as always and really interesting watching you how do remove the turbo and hope you are staying safe and well and let’s hope that’s the only issue you find
Great video as usual! I would be so happy if you could help me with my car.... I have an Audi A3 1.6 TDI from 2012 that is a little weird when the temperature drops below around 5 degrees celsius. The car always starts on the first try but when i start driving it it feels like small hesitates. I don't see any changes in RPMs and this mostly happen when im holding my foot still on the accelerator. It's so hard to describe but it feels like small shovings in the car. The car accelerates as its supposed to and feels good other than these small shovings. Nothing crazy but you feel em and start thinking....No faulty codes or anything.
An EPC light brought me here. I have a feeling the wastegate actuator is sticking in my wife's car when it's cold. Only seems to happen when she starts the car in the morning after it's been sitting for 13 hours. I'm hoping that she doesn't need a new turbo, as she has less than 40k miles on the car and it's a 2016 model.
Will you be replacing the oil supply and return pipes? I understand they get carboned up and reduce the oil supply to the bearings! Great, informative video once again, thanks.
It is often said that you should change the oil feed pipe at the same time as the cartridge in case it was the cause of the original problem. I don't think you mentioned it but I presume you checked or cleaned then retained the original ?
Oil pick up will be blocked I've seen this before . Might be worth checking cams due to oil starvation. Shame didn't have this video 5 years ago. End up with engine out as I wasn't sure on the lack of oil . Pickup was all blocked up
Nice little how to that, I’ve always sent turbos off for refurb but might actually have a go myself after seeing it :) Diverter valves are such a pita 😂
Oh dear... I can't help thinking that car must have been making all sorts of interesting noises before the shaft failed and snapped, but at least it was the turbine side that snapped, if it had been the compressor side it may well have fed a load of shrapnel into the engine and that's bye-bye engine...
Great episode....did you check/service the waste gate?My 20v 1.8t has a chatter from the waste gate. Something to do with a spring? I know nothing about it, curious if it is problem with the 2 litres.
I need to do a turbo on my diesel Range Rover but I'm unsure on doing a cartridge or complete unit! It's not the fitting of it and the other bits like oil change and sump off to clean pick up pipe, my issue is when you get a cartridge do they come balanced and where to get a good one from? Could you give me details of your supplier so I could try them? Oh mine is leaking oil into the intercooler. Cheers Tom
Does the core contain all bearings and seals? My CR170 Passat has lots of miles, if I replace the core have I effectively rebuilt the turbo for another 200k miles? Thanks 🙏
Do you have to have the turbo re balanced if you replace the chra cartridge? Because I would prefer to do this than pay extra for a rebuilt turbo if you don't.
@@SavingSalvage thanks for answering l"m wanting a hybrid turbo for my astra van and I know they use the same housing so I'll just look for a hybrid cartridge and save some money 👍
thanks for explaining the way the turbo works but I still couldn't see how the exhaust fumes can give you more power I think there is something wrong with my brain.
The intake air is compressed using energy from the exhaust gases acting on the turbine. The only link between the two sides is the spinning shaft. Compressed air is denser in terms of oxygen molecules, therefore more fuel can be burned in it, releasing more energy (divided by time equals more power). Anyone disagree?
Great video - were did you buy your turbo core from ? And how much money did you pay ? I was looking on ebay for turbocores but I read you have to be careful buying bad turbo core that only last a few thousand miles then break
My 1990's Toyota just goes and goes and goes and goes... DAM I wish something would go wrong with it. I have seen a few of your video's and I see you are indeed a VW/Audi fanboy .. Someone has to buy them I suppose.
Yup, i pulled mine off entirely, but didn't open it to see the cartridge. Was expecting variable geometry though, but couldn't find anything to point to it. Thanks!
Loved the turbo explanation as a car novice! Would love to see a laser pointer when showing parts in the car when in hard to reach areas 👍
That's a really good idea
Love how informative all the videos are. Always simply explained!
You should be a mechanic lol well explained 👍
Might be worth checking the oil feed pipes as well. There's several videos on TH-cam explaining how oil starvation of the turbo due to blocked pipes can eventually seize or snap turbo shafts. All because of lack of regular maintenance / oils changes.
Absolutely agree with this. Also check oil flow to turbo by cranking with oil feed disconnected from turbo and injector fuse or solenoid out.
Watch this video to see how important it is to replace the oil feed pipe:
th-cam.com/video/XRjaOD5qf8k/w-d-xo.html
The cause of the turbine and compressor shaft snapping is normally oiling. Check the feed for flow otherwise your new core could suffer the same fate.
Thank you for this, finally found a guide I can use to install an anti surge core for my K04. Unfortunately this didn't show in a search for k04/03 core replacement. Found it via a forum
Loved this video, one of the best and I learnt something new today, thanks for explaining how the turbo worked. Always wondered.
Brilliant explanation on how turbos work, great channel thanks
Diagnose dan did a turbo replacement recently and the oil feed pipe connected to the turbo itself was blocked. Unlikely this has happened to yours because of all that smoke but it’s worth a look.
I saw that, the new, expensive turbo only lasted a short time because the previous mechanic never checked the oil feeds, i would be fuming!
I would recommend to clean all the pipes and intercooler as well, and before you strart the engine with just fitted turbo inject a bit of oil in that new cartridge or turn over the engine with starter for 10-12 seconda without startind the engine
Excellent video showing the internal workings of a turbocharger, a common item that is fitted to most cars these days but most people are not even aware they have one or what it does until it goes bang! Nice to see that they can be rebuilt and the core is available as a service part. Looks like you caught this one in time before the engine lunched on it! Keep up the good work with the channel, hope the RS4 rebuild gives you some good news soon 🤞🤞🤞
Loved the explanation of how the turbo works. Thanks so much. Every day's a school day!!!
Someone at work his turbo blew up, I reckoned the waste gate stuck closed, caused the turbo to spin to destruction. The garage found the waste gate actuator had stuck, so my guess was correct!
Good to see somebody who knows the workings and looks for other parts that can also be faulty, plus then replaces them. I hope things go well for you over this lockdown. 👍🏽😎
Lovely Jubbly, like the format, the working telling you how it operates, and not someone behind the dealership desk.
Mate you answer the questions I'm always too embarrassed to ask. Your videos are pure magic.
Very concise explanation about the turbo Nick, your videos are both entertaining and informative at the same time.Keep up the good work 👌👌👌👌👌
I wish you'd clean out those leaves.............
I really enjoy your videos, you are working on cars which the most of us can afford and pick up on common faults and how to over come them. I'm sick and tired of looking at videos made by supercar test pilots.
Keep up the good work.
Remember check that for oil flow and return save any hassle you don’t want or need
I’d love to see you do the cam belt and water pump on this (2.0 TFSi) in detail and.... do you have any tips on reducing or removing the build-up of carbon on the inlet side of these direct injection engines?
I really enjoy your videos, great to see a VAG specialist who’s not afraid to get stuck in, thank you and stay safe.
Best way to remove the carbon build up is walnut blasting, I recently had my Leon 2.0TFSI done after 68500k , it's made a significant difference to the responsiveness of the engine and has probably restored something like 20-30bhp based on videos I've seen where they dyno'd it before and after.
@@pdk60 thank you, it’s wishful thinking on my behalf that a remedy as effective as yours could be had without removing too much. I’ve owned my A3 for 11.5 yrs and only at 32k miles, definitely not as responsive as it was. I’d have thought that with so many direct injections out there now that a less invasive solution would have been found. I seem to remember Ed China promoting something, Terraclean? Removing everything and going back to bare metal as you’ve done is I guess the only certain way, thanks again.
@@f1kwa399 Removing the intake/inlet is the only way to properly clean off the baked on carbon deposits in the ports and on the valves, and then either by blasting or to manually soak the ports in carbon cleaner and scrape the deposits off. All the videos where they spray products like Seafoam into the inlet will help to keep carbon from building up on a clean inlet in the first place, but have minimal effect on the thick carbon that's already there. Terraclean and other services like hydrogen cleaning will only work on the combustion chamber and exhaust side of the engine, they have no effect on the inlet side. My walnut blasting cost £320, the price range for this is around £300 to £800 depending on the engine and how many cylinders.
@@f1kwa399 terraclean will not work atall and will simply be a utter waste of money on a direct injection engine such as the tfsi... A normal engine the injectors are right above the valves in the cylinder head so the valves are constantly washed with fuel keeping them clean and terraclean could perhaps have a chance at cleaning them more as it's sprayed through the injectors... Direct injection the injectors are in the side of the cylinder block spraying directly into the cylinder (direct injection) this may produce abit more power but there's no way for the valves to be cleaned with fuel or any additives the only thing that'll be getting cleaned Is the cylinder which will be a waste of money again, you can do it yourself pretty well with a bottle brush and some engine safe chemicals to remove the carbon
@@pdk60 interesting, thank you, I tried Seafoam a few years ago, did nothing on the A3 as you say, if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get your walnut blasting done?
Incidentally, I used Seafoam on a RAV4 and it cleaned the carbon from the piston crowns well but not as effective as water injection, just saying, not that I’d try it on the Audi. Did you have to remove the head to blast the ports, I can’t imagine how they’d do it any other way?
Interesting. On My 3.0 Kia Sedona , if I give it some gas then let go you can hear the wastegate or dump valve whistle as the air is not needed. Mine has a massive turbo from factory so got lots of lag but massive torque love it
3:20 The oil feed is the one on the top. The big banjo you can see facing the bulkhead is a coolant line and there's another one on the other side of the CHRA.
Make sure you change the oil and filter before running or you will be fitting a 2nd new core as all that broken shaft debris has gone down the drain pipe and is in the oil.
Will be removing the sump in the next episode 👌🏼
Check intercooler for any oil.
Possibly Over Kill was thinking as you had access to the actuator and the hoses thought maybe both could have been replaced, while you had the unit on the bench... great up load, if you were to flip it on in the future one could show the work done... again great upload...
Turbo did the same on my A6, luckily the engine is in line so access was way easier
Great video Dean. Keep them coming.👍
Most enjoyable look forward to the next update then onto the RS 4.
Enjoying your videos, would love how to videos for example how to remove a turbo etc
Thank you for the lesson and the common problems.
The diverter valve has gotten a new update. Fit that. I did and it helps a bit (N249 valve)
Great video, as always. Thanks for the turbo explanation. Looks like a nice little car. Hope this is more straightforward than the. V8 Audi.
Another great interesting video, lucky the compressor didn't disintegrate and damage the engine. Thanks very much, keep the videos coming 👍
Might the oil pipe have failed/blocked causing the shaft to break?
Yeh... you should just replace the oil pipe as turbo's are generally very reliable and only normally break when a component feeding the turbo malfunctions (such as the oil pipes). I would replace this whilst you are doing the job of fixing the turbo.
It’s necessary to replace the oil feed an return pipes when you do a turbo or else you’ll end up with another failed turbo really really quickly. And the warranty will be void by not changing them.
Not sure how much your CHRA cost, but K03 turbos are reliable as wood burning stoves and only die with lack of oil pressure and overspeeding. With a potentially blocked pickup and a torn DV you may have had both. That said, full K03s can be had for 100 quid or less. My worry is that your compressor wheel was absolutely munted which means it's been running against the compressor cover and sending metal fragments through the charge pressure circuit along with the ridiculous amounts of oil. I'd recommend replacing the intercooler and charge pipework.
I’ve ordered a new pick up pipe too, also checked the intake, no metal fragments seen, the compressor wheel just seems to have bent. No sign of fragments anyway.
Nice video. Didnt know about the diverter valve, good to see. 😎👍
Hi dean another brilliant video as always and really interesting watching you how do remove the turbo and hope you are staying safe and well and let’s hope that’s the only issue you find
Brilliant vlog again Dean thanks for making this video buddy
Another great video. Who do you go to for turbo cores? I hope the V8 is salvageable - can't wait to hear.
Really nice job getting that turbo out ,was the rebuild kit expensive ? ,always a pleasure watching your vids.
The core assembly should have tiny pins to align turbine housing and compressor cover!!!
Great video as usual!
I would be so happy if you could help me with my car....
I have an Audi A3 1.6 TDI from 2012 that is a little weird when the temperature drops below around 5 degrees celsius. The car always starts on the first try but when i start driving it it feels like small hesitates. I don't see any changes in RPMs and this mostly happen when im holding my foot still on the accelerator. It's so hard to describe but it feels like small shovings in the car. The car accelerates as its supposed to and feels good other than these small shovings. Nothing crazy but you feel em and start thinking....No faulty codes or anything.
An EPC light brought me here. I have a feeling the wastegate actuator is sticking in my wife's car when it's cold. Only seems to happen when she starts the car in the morning after it's been sitting for 13 hours. I'm hoping that she doesn't need a new turbo, as she has less than 40k miles on the car and it's a 2016 model.
You didn't need to take the manifold off ! Good Video and I enjoy your channel.
Will you be replacing the oil supply and return pipes? I understand they get carboned up and reduce the oil supply to the bearings!
Great, informative video once again, thanks.
I will be fitting a new pick up pipe and checking feed and return pipes 👌🏼
Keep it up great watch
It is often said that you should change the oil feed pipe at the same time as the cartridge in case it was the cause of the original problem. I don't think you mentioned it but I presume you checked or cleaned then retained the original ?
He did .. he said he was going to check the oil pickup pipe
Very informative absolutely stunning👍
Good vid mate. Wonder what caused the shaft to just shear like that......
Thx for turbo explanation
Oil pick up will be blocked I've seen this before . Might be worth checking cams due to oil starvation. Shame didn't have this video 5 years ago. End up with engine out as I wasn't sure on the lack of oil . Pickup was all blocked up
Hi mate good job on the turbo rebuild was this a genuine turbo core or after market cheers 👍👍
Good video I enjoyed the explanation 👍
Check the intercooler is clean and not full of oil
Great content as usual very helpful 👍
Great work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Am sure car manufacturers put items like turbos in the hardest to get to places on purpose
Nice little how to that, I’ve always sent turbos off for refurb but might actually have a go myself after seeing it :)
Diverter valves are such a pita 😂
I wonder why turbo manufacturers have 80k worth of balancing machine.
Diy turbo = do it twice pay more....
Oh dear...
I can't help thinking that car must have been making all sorts of interesting noises before the shaft failed and snapped, but at least it was the turbine side that snapped, if it had been the compressor side it may well have fed a load of shrapnel into the engine and that's bye-bye engine...
Awesome bud cheers 👍🏻
Happened to me in my A3 Tdi quattro turbo snapped in half luckily still under warranty only had it 6 weeks.
Nice insight, thanks.
Nice piece of work!😊😊😊
Very interesting video 👍
A nice 711 push rod engine.no hassle
Great video dean. Everyday a lesson.
Great episode....did you check/service the waste gate?My 20v 1.8t has a chatter from the waste gate. Something to do with a spring? I know nothing about it, curious if it is problem with the 2 litres.
Clean it all, make it look brand new. dont want any debris left there.
You need RecoTurbo - Doncaster. Large stock, next day delivery.
Certainly learnt abit about a turbo
I need to do a turbo on my diesel Range Rover but I'm unsure on doing a cartridge or complete unit! It's not the fitting of it and the other bits like oil change and sump off to clean pick up pipe, my issue is when you get a cartridge do they come balanced and where to get a good one from? Could you give me details of your supplier so I could try them? Oh mine is leaking oil into the intercooler. Cheers Tom
Just curious where you obtained the new turbo core. I am planning a rebuild. Thanks...
Do you need to prime the turbo in this model or not necessary? Have you found the Smart car for your next project? Stay safe!
Another Very good video !
Brilliant video bud, I think I have to do my KO4 turbo 😂🤦♂️
Great video👍🏻
Another great video.
Did the intercooler and pipes have oil in them? If so will you be dealing with that. Makes a changes from a VGT.
Where did you get the turbo core from
Or how do you know if you are getting the right one ?
Do you drop a bit of new oil in the turbo oil galleries before refitting so the turbo has oil around it’s bearings before starting he engine again?
Yep, otherwise known as priming the turbo 👌🏼
Easy fix. Get a new CHRA from Mellett for about £150. Best quality gear.
What you think about balance shaft delete with a free spinning wheel while you got the sump off, I hear the engine is finished if they seize
Does the core contain all bearings and seals? My CR170 Passat has lots of miles, if I replace the core have I effectively rebuilt the turbo for another 200k miles? Thanks 🙏
Do you have to have the turbo re balanced if you replace the chra cartridge? Because I would prefer to do this than pay extra for a rebuilt turbo if you don't.
Only the core is balanced, and that gets balanced when it’s built 👌🏼
@@SavingSalvage thanks for answering l"m wanting a hybrid turbo for my astra van and I know they use the same housing so I'll just look for a hybrid cartridge and save some money 👍
thanks for explaining the way the turbo works but I still couldn't see how the exhaust fumes can give you more power I think there is something wrong with my brain.
The intake air is compressed using energy from the exhaust gases acting on the turbine. The only link between the two sides is the spinning shaft. Compressed air is denser in terms of oxygen molecules, therefore more fuel can be burned in it, releasing more energy (divided by time equals more power). Anyone disagree?
Great video - were did you buy your turbo core from ? And how much money did you pay ? I was looking on ebay for turbocores but I read you have to be careful buying bad turbo core that only last a few thousand miles then break
I only buy ones that come with at least 12m warranty. They’re not going to warrant something that will break in a few weeks 👌🏼
Melett turbo cores are good quality.
I thought TH-cam was stopping these own made ads as they can't be monetized!!
Nothing is simple 😌
Best, best, best 👍 🇷🇸
Where would you recommend getting cores from .?
Can someone explain how Is that a3 is an AWD ? 🧐🧐🧐
They brake becouse of abnormal tuning maps.Check tuning stage.And if this is a china ebay core.......well good luck.
Is the batt any good if so u should prob dissconnect it we do want a fiew more episodes you know 😂😂
My 1990's Toyota just goes and goes and goes and goes... DAM I wish something would go wrong with it.
I have seen a few of your video's and I see you are indeed a VW/Audi fanboy ..
Someone has to buy them I suppose.
won't be a turbo for long, geometry should be revised also
Where did you get the turbo core from?
eBay, fully balanced and 12 months warranty
@@SavingSalvage Nice one. Thanks 👍
Sponge Bob square space 🤣👍
Cheers 🥃👍
If it was your own car would you knock the pre cat out while it’s off the turbo ?
Great vid 😎
Is this fixed or variable geometry?
Fixed, think only the diesels are variable from memory, but it’s been so long that might be utter crap 😂
Yup, i pulled mine off entirely, but didn't open it to see the cartridge. Was expecting variable geometry though, but couldn't find anything to point to it. Thanks!