2019 f150 with a Roush supercharger in it- they recommend a 5w50 after the conversion. Drive the truck all year round. Just need to plug in the block heater at 10 degrees or below so it spins over normally. No other differences. Just 2 mpg less likely from the tune and turning the supercharger. Have been running it for 2.5 years. Right at 16mpg average all year round. Very reasonable for 650 hp truck.
I’d say that’s reasonable all right damn! I get around 24 highway in my old 2v mustang at only 450 whp. It averages around 16 mpg with the 6R80 swap but it was a bit better with the 5 speed. Not that I give a shit it’s a fun car but truck with 650 hp getting 16mpg is almost unbelievable.
@@rickymortero3023 most 2021 don't consume oil unless you've added some mods from the videos I've seen which made me leave mine alone. No air breather no new exhaust. Gonna wait a few more years.
All oils get thinner with heat. Its just that synthetic multi viscosity oil will flow differently across different temps, due to the polymers inside it. The molecules get larger and stay more uniform size. It does not get thicker as it gets hotter.
Yes because different methods are used for hot and cold ends get confusing. There is a general lack of information about what happens to viscosity above the SAE 100c . I have a suspicion that viscosity of some oils fall off a cliff in real overheat conditions.
LN engineering recomends going to a thicker viscosity oil. I run 5w-40 racing oil in my 2004 911 and have my engine oil checked by speed diagnostics. Only reason 5w-20 is used is so manufacturers can comply with government regulations
8:17 so I have a 21 Mach 1 which calls for 5W-30. Well from the first oil change it was using 2 quarts between 5,000 mile oil changes. I went to the Mach 1 track attack at Charlotte motor speedway and I asked I said these cars run so quiet what do they use for oil and get beat on all day. He said Ford uses 5W-50 for any performance testing or performance driving. He said the 5W-30 is for fuel economy only. I got home and next oil change I switched to 5W-50 signature series Amsoil and voila no more “coyote” tick and no more topping it off with a half quart every 1,000-1,200 miles. It tells me this engine is designed with 50 weight but ford says eeh 20 weight 30 weight whatever. Oh that’s the other thing from 20-21 model year they suddenly switched from 5W-20 to 5W-30 with no rhyme or reason whatsoever. It was the exact same 3rd gen coyote.
Read this in a forum a couple days ago from oz tuning Im switching next oil change The noise is not coming from the DI pump. It is being caused by the DI pump, but the noise itself is typically the exhaust cam phaser on the passenger side. The added load of the DI pump and the stiffer valve springs in Gen 3 motors put a lot of extra force on that cam. At very low loads and RPM, the oil pump is barely making 20-25 psi of oil pressure, and very minimal flow. So, then the VCT solenoids open to allow oil to enter the phasers to rotate the phaser, there isn’t enough pressure or flow to fill the galley quick enough to rotate the cam, and there’s a small amount of air inside the phaser for a split second, while the cam is being commanded to rotate. That causes the phaser to “rattle” back and forth until oil fills the galley and rotates the phaser. Is it ideal, no. Is it hurting anything, highly unlikely. Now... why does it happen tuned and doesn’t happen stock. That’s because in our tune, we schedule the DI system to come online earlier, at lower loads and lower rpms. We do that, because this being a 12:1 CR engine, it needs all the knock protection it can get, especially if you choose to run low octane fuel. Direct Injection direct cools the cylinder, greatly increasing knock protection and performance. So, it’s a valid trade off. Better protection from something that definitely will hurt your engine, knock, versus the slight chance that if you feather the gas pedal juuust right, you’ll here the cam phasers rattle. Let me be very clear this is not “ping”, “knock”, or “detonation” like everyone likes to describe any noise they ever hear an engine make. Trucks that have this issue will make the noise even with E85 in the tank, and it’s essentially impossible to cause knock on one of these engines on E85, without obscene amounts of boost. So.... it’s not knock. Another easy test you can do yourself to prove to yourself, that “maybe” I might actually know what I’m talking about. 😉 When you hear the noise, press the pedal down just a little more. What this will do is instantly increase oil pressure and flow, abs the noise will stop. Now, if this were knock, increasing load would have the exact opposite effect. You would cause more knock because the cylinder pressures would increase with the added load/throttle. Lastly, for everyone that’s hearing this noise, you should all check your oil levels. Everyone knows these trucks have oil consumption issues, and of the dozens of times I’ve explained this to various people 90% of the time the person complaining of the noise was down on oil. So, things you can do to improve or eliminate the noise. First, make sure your oil level is full. I personally run an extra 1/2 quart of oil in all of my Coyote engines. I do this based on recommendations from several well known engine builders. Coyote engines tend to have a hard time with oil drain-back when driven hard, and that can leave you with an oil pan that’s basically dry at WOT. Adding an extra 1/2 quart is a good way to help with that, and have adequate oil flow will also help with this noise. Second, run 5w50 oil. It’s perfectly safe for any Coyote engine, and the added weight can increase oil pressure at low loads, which can help with this problem as well.
@@dramexlyuorden4845 this engines tick, this is for decel rattle and its a phaser issue , do it at your own risk ,im changing to 5w50 on my next oil change though
I've been running 5W-30 since last year in my 2020 Silverado with a 5.3 the only reason I'm running that is because just to prolong anything happening to the lifters when I initially got the truck I had 39K on it now since owning it for about a year since on the second owner has like 82k on it no lifter tick no failures yet
I’m Oz tuned on my 2019 F150 5.0L, too. And, I never had any oil consumption issues before my tune with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20. With the tune, on the same oil, I burned about 1.5-2 quarts over 5K miles. So, I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 on my last oil change to see if that helps. The oil consumption with the tune doesn’t really bother me, though. I just keep an eye on it and refill as needed. The Omega X tune is definitely worth a minimal amount of oil consumption to me.
Well I'm here to tell you I use 20 50 in my 5.4 2008 Ford F-150 it does not burn oil. It gets great gas mileage with the air conditioner on I can climb the mountains of Pennsylvania just fine after 6 hours of trave from Detroit, before the mountains for another hour before arrival of my destination Minersville Pennsylvania. Oh and also it has $249,000 mi on it. I'm sticking to what works,
That last start and idle definitely quieter. I know what you mean about drive-thru and noise, had an converter shield that was loose, couldn't hear it except in drive-thru.
I just switched from 0W-20 to 5W-30 in my yota. I lost at least 1.5 MPG but gained less timing chain noise. With 0-20 I heard a lazy lifter when hot on restart and hear the same when cold running the 5-30. 1 million miles driving for me so far.
Where I am at the summer gets up to 50°C so my car manufacturer recommends 5W 20 and I usually put in the winter 5W-30 and in the summer 5W 40 and it’s really quiets it down. No issues and by the way, check your engine specification for clearance and compare it to the chart on engine temperature while running you’ll find I am correct.
18-20 is a known bad block with the plasma arc lining, not cylinder sleeves like previous coyotes. I have a ‘19 coyote F150 and feel your pain, but truth is we got bad ones.
I have 2014, 2019 Subaru Forester, it recommend 0w-20 , but I put 5w-30 , it is quieter , specially valve tapping noise is much less. less noise may mean less wear.
@@Turfcat150yes at start up and cold temperatures, but if you're doing a lot of off road/ highway driving in the summer I don't see it hurting anything especially in a high mileage engine. IMHO
Straylya 🦘🦘🦘🦘….. FPV Supercharged 5.0, I’ve run it on 5/30 10/30 0/40 5/40 and even 15/40 …. No ticking, no oil burning. It’s a mild climate but notice no 0/20 5/20 in my decade of oil changes. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 kilometres.
Just fyi the weight scales of gear oil and motor oil aren't the same 😂 a 80w-90 gear oil is about thr same as a 20w-50 motor oil, if you dont believe me look it up
The Gen 1 coyote mustang with trac-pac recommended 5-50 for track use from the factory, it says it right on the oil cap. Motorcraft has a 5-50 synthetic blend for it. 5-20 is used mainly for emission standards in the U.S. the same car and engine in countries outside the U.S. recommend thicker oil 5-30. The manufacturer doesn't care if using that piss thin oil cause your engine to wear out faster.
If you're checking it when it's cold you're not supposed to do that in the manual it says to check after getting up to operating temperature and letting the truck sit off for 15 minutes to get an accurate reading I guess they change the dipstick to be measured when warm but I am making the switch to 5W30 I might just do 50 next if it works out better for you in this video I'm about halfway through so I'll know at the end
Long story short, aluminum blocks allow for more audible noises that we would never hear in an iron block. The tapping IS the HPFP and not some rod, lifter, or roller bearing knock. Good video but I’d be worried about those lifters and tensioners being able to push that thick of an oil. BUT!…. I gotta question….. your 10r80, how has yours been? I have an early build 2018 with obviously the early build first time out 10r80, and it was replaced at 56k. No, no racing, no tug of war, no extreme towing, no nothing. Just curious on yours. So far my 13k miles on the new one has been “ok”
In my 2019, 5.0, I've had the best performance with 10w40 and I've got 120k miles on it. When I ran 5w20 I would randomly get phaser codes when the oil temp was at 200+. If I ran 5w40 it would run ok for 1000 miles, then the engine would start to get noisey and randomly throw phaser codes. 10w40 and 2 cans of liquid moly for anyone worried about bearing tolerances.
I get phaser codes while towing my camper. Dealership tech said try a 40 weight. Guess I need an oil cooler. Hope it works because I was convinced it was the timing chain.
Oil does not get thicker with heat. Yes In a sense it acts thicker but the higher the temp the thinner it gets. Also 5w50 is much thicker cold than 5w20 is. The scale is pretty wide on how oils are rated. Best oil for a naturally aspirated coyote that’s not doing track sessions is 5w30. 5w50 for boosted applications.
Where are all the codes everyone claims that a heavier oil will cause? And the engine is supposed to get damaged too. Not a fan of 0w20 and thinner oils in hot climates. Especially with direct injection engines.
I just read on the tube today where Ford is recommending dipstick length change and a butterfly valve change on intake. Shorter dipstick causes overfill, and the computer equivalent for the butterfly valve in the old carburetor during de accleration sucks oil back thru pcv into the intake. The shorter improper dipstick causes overfill of 1 qt. or better. Thus exacerbating the issue into the intake manifold thru pcv. This was the 5.0 v8 engine in f150. All related to oil consumption issues with this engine.
You are not even close. The revised dipstick has a wider indicated operating range before needing oil added. This engine can be operated safely with it being 2 quarts low on oil. This was to alleviate some of the panic people were having over needing to add just 1 quart. The 2018 and up Coyotes in the F150 still need 8.7 quarts. Retired Ford Parts Manger here.
The oil activated timing chain tensioner on the F-150 is designed for the light oil --- heavy oil can make it fail causing expensive repairs at the least & total engine destruction at the worst [I won't make this mistake again!] Wish you the best.
The only year of the coyote motor that is having timing chain tensioner issues is 2011. The problem has since been corrected. As for the tensioner being designed for lighter oils, it is designed for certain oil pressure ranges in which thicker oils don't exceed. It is fine for the motor, that's why Ford performance, Whipple, and Roush recommend it.
5w-20 and 5w-50 is the basically the same viscosity at -25 degrees. I could see if you run 15w50 in really cold temps. I am almost 100% sure the chain tensioners are ratcheting so they don't back off when the engine sits.
Not true at all. The F150 in Europe takes 5W40 But in the US it takes 5w20. The thickness of oil isn't a big deal in big heavy hot engines. It really depends on where you live and how you drive
Keep this in mind guys going from a 5:20 straight to a 5:50 you have to understand what is going to happen here going to a 5:50 with a very thick you have to understand what exactly are you expecting this oil to do for your engine your engine but absolutely is going to be very thick and your engine the problem is how are you going to be using your engine on a regular basis you have to understand when you go with a 50 your engine needs to be working really hard for it to not to gum up inside your engine now you guys want to go with so much thickness because you want to make sure it does not cause any ticket that itself is understood but do not get aggressive with the viscosity if your engine is not being used in aggressive hard-running way that oil is not for conservative driving keep that in mind it will thicken up more when the engine is warm if you're not using that engine to run very hard it will gum up and if you're not going to run it hard on a regular basis you going to cause your engine to have some problems later on keep this in mind racing motor oil is normally 0.50 because racing engines are always running hard at that level of a viscosity but once again 50 is not a normal operation running motor oil if you going to increase it to stop the engine ticking it's best to from a 5:20 to a 5:30 to be safe otherwise using a 5:30 you're asking for your engine to struggle pushing that oil through the cylinders what's also you being increasing engine temperatures inside your engine because it's too much thickness
Change the PCV valve on that 5.0, and oil consumption will go away. Only use Motorcraft valve. Also, 5w30 might be a more viable option than 5w50, to be honest. If in Texax, I say ok, but Michigan; the top might be starving for some lube on cold starts.
Don't know what climate your in but there's green leaves on the trees. In colder temps engines with variable valve timing can set codes for valve timing with heavier viscosity oil being slow to pass through the screens in the vet solinoids.
The 5.0 engine with its 32 valves and all the hardware required to actuate those valves, direct injection, aluminum block and 12:1 compression ratio (2018 and up) will be somewhat noisy. It is perfectly normal for this engine. If you want to run 5w50, it is your engine and your choice. I run 5w30 in mine because I pull a trailer. I believe 5w50 is just too thick.
My 2018 5.0 used 1 qt 5w-20 in 3000 miles … I changed to 5w-30 and fixed the use of oil.. imo I feel 5w-50 is not good if you use your vehicle for short runs.
Interesting topic and some good info but a serious lack of technical knowledge re oil. The hot oil has the lower viscosity than cold. I think CAFE stds is behind move to lower viscosity oils. Need to consider other engine differences, e.g LR use this coyote engine and switched from 5w20 to 0w20. Forum and LR tech comments suggest this was partially due to vvt concerns but they don't publish official reasoning. 0w20 doesn't sit well with me. At 100c these are sub 8 centistokes oils. A 5w40 would be up over 10 and inline with recommendations that German manufacturers provide. I would love to see independent expert testing done. I don't trust Ford or LR to recommend an oil that will provide longest engine life.
Castrol Edge has 5w-50 in USA ? In Australia I have only seen 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, 20w-50 and 10w-60 in Shelf's at Auto-Parts Stores. Motorcraft also makes 5w-50 Full Synthetic is it any good ?
Did anyone else think about the screens in cam phasers or the tighter bearing tolerances or timing chain tensioners with stock oil pump gear? Newer stock engines are slightly different at least 5.0 coyote r, but every squirrel gets away with a nut once awhile
"Close Tolerance" is a 100% made up term and ANYBODY who has rebuilt new and old engines knows this. Ford runs 5w-50 when track testing their 5.0 Mustang's and GM runs it new from the factory in their hot Vette engines....And it's all we run down here in Florida to keep our street cars from grenading....But I guess these are old slap happy motors....:)
@@clb_52 use 0w40 you will see the difference all engines now blow up before 100k why because too thin oils and long oil change I am a mechanic I never blow a engine on my cars I use 5w40 change it evrey 5k KM I dri in hard condition not a drop of oil I lost no smoke no sludge 0w16 and 0w20 is fir the EPA boll of shit
@@clb_52 so tell me why bugatti use 0w60 that because the clearance is a lie my friend yes you need a 0w or a 5w but the second number need to be a 40 whgit or 50 or even a 60 in super cars
Everyone can do what ever they want but I do know for a fact when you run heavy weight oil in a vehicle that has hydraulic timing chain adjusters and other hydraulic dependent functions from a factory recommended oil viscosity some times the only safe way to do a cold start is foot to the floor and crank until you have oil pressure and even on mild temperature days it takes 30 seconds to register oil pressure. "THE OIL IS TOO HEAVY" . Just personal experience. PS: I've had way to many discussions good and bad about what is the correct way to maintain Ford OHC engines my current vehicle is a 2018 and it was maintained better than the book at the dealer it grenaded on vacation with only 28,000 miles. For me after 3 F150 trucks over 19 years and cam issues with all "NO MORE FORD" thats how you fix the problem unless you feel the need to be part of a forum.
Any idea if the oil pump is 'strong' enough or 'engineered' to handle the additional weight? 2016 5.0 with 68k miles. I'm considering doing what you did. Thank you.
I've got a 2016 f150 5.0L v8 and changed the oil from 5w30 back to original 5w20 now its shaking more than usual when i start the vehicle. Any thoughts on what's happening?
5w-50 is more viscous (thicker) than 5w-30 at hotter temps. Its goes from 5 weight to 50 weight while 5w-30 goes from 5 weight to 30 weight. It's literally in the name.
@@ClutchMonsta 5W50 will be thicker than 5W30 at temp, but you need to research how multi-viscosity oils work and get back to me. You are telling me that oil will thicken as it heats up? They don't thicken, they just don't thin out more than a 50W will at that temp.
@Trent Morris I'm saying 5w-50 will be more viscous than 5w-30 at operating temp. The video nor I is saying it ends up more viscous in total than when it is cold. It's not hard to understand what's being said here, if you actually know how modern oil works.
@@ClutchMonsta In the video he says at around 1:50 that it "Thickens up quite a bunch." I am saying that is not what happens. 5W50 will thin out less than 5W30 at operating temperature. You are right that 5W50 will be more viscous than 5W30 at operating temp, but it doesn't thicken from a 5W to a 50W. If that was the case hot 5W50 would be more viscous than cold 5W50.
Scotty Kilmer says to never put in heavier oil than recommended because you'll just wear your engine out faster. He says if it's burning oil just add more oil.
You can put any oils you like. The consequences of using the wrong oil will only be visible after 10 years onward. If you are planning to keep the truck for 5 years, then who cares, right?
Ford Motor Company is not there for your best interest, they are there for their own interest, and the regulations they have to meet from the government. What really matters is what happens in the real world, and sometimes what happens in the real world is very different than what is discussed around a table or designed on the computer.
Agree. Most engine wear occurs on cold start. My dad was old school and used 30 wt. Heavier is better! Left his car in an unheated garage when he went to Ariz in the winter. Still cold in NY, he spun a rod bearing on start up. Had to replace the engine.
Folks who drive 1969 VW bugs run 5w50 in winter and 20w50 summer. You should use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. You going to ruin your engine running too thick.
Just posted the follow-up video. Check it out for updates and answers to some of the comments below. th-cam.com/video/aw7ZWQR-o9w/w-d-xo.html
Glad to see the mullet is still alive and well!
2019 f150 with a Roush supercharger in it- they recommend a 5w50 after the conversion. Drive the truck all year round. Just need to plug in the block heater at 10 degrees or below so it spins over normally. No other differences. Just 2 mpg less likely from the tune and turning the supercharger. Have been running it for 2.5 years. Right at 16mpg average all year round. Very reasonable for 650 hp truck.
I’d say that’s reasonable all right damn! I get around 24 highway in my old 2v mustang at only 450 whp. It averages around 16 mpg with the 6R80 swap but it was a bit better with the 5 speed. Not that I give a shit it’s a fun car but truck with 650 hp getting 16mpg is almost unbelievable.
Yes, that's damn good compared to my 280whp 2006 f150 5.4 3v, It averages 10.3 mpg😢
Getting damn 13 mpg highway average on my 5.0 still love it tho
5w50 in mine for 47k miles changed at 3000 and running premium gas. No consumption at all. No issues.
2021+ ?
@@rickymortero3023 most 2021 don't consume oil unless you've added some mods from the videos I've seen which made me leave mine alone. No air breather no new exhaust. Gonna wait a few more years.
I have 5w-40 in a tiny mitsubishi mirage that calls for 0w-20 the engine sounds and runs so much smoother on 5w-40.
Use 0W30, you'll thank me later
No he will not. That oil sheers fast..😮😮@@RajeshSingh-rt4rx
@@IronMike-f8i That's not how it works man.
All oils get thinner with heat. Its just that synthetic multi viscosity oil will flow differently across different temps, due to the polymers inside it. The molecules get larger and stay more uniform size. It does not get thicker as it gets hotter.
Yes because different methods are used for hot and cold ends get confusing.
There is a general lack of information about what happens to viscosity above the SAE 100c . I have a suspicion that viscosity of some oils fall off a cliff in real overheat conditions.
LN engineering recomends going to a thicker viscosity oil. I run 5w-40 racing oil in my 2004 911 and have my engine oil checked by speed diagnostics. Only reason 5w-20 is used is so manufacturers can comply with government regulations
I've swapped a 5w/30 with a 5w/40, much better all round. 177,000 miles
8:17 so I have a 21 Mach 1 which calls for 5W-30. Well from the first oil change it was using 2 quarts between 5,000 mile oil changes. I went to the Mach 1 track attack at Charlotte motor speedway and I asked I said these cars run so quiet what do they use for oil and get beat on all day. He said Ford uses 5W-50 for any performance testing or performance driving. He said the 5W-30 is for fuel economy only. I got home and next oil change I switched to 5W-50 signature series Amsoil and voila no more “coyote” tick and no more topping it off with a half quart every 1,000-1,200 miles. It tells me this engine is designed with 50 weight but ford says eeh 20 weight 30 weight whatever. Oh that’s the other thing from 20-21 model year they suddenly switched from 5W-20 to 5W-30 with no rhyme or reason whatsoever. It was the exact same 3rd gen coyote.
The later 2021 had the 3rd gen 2.0 coyote.
@@brandonmacon3317different intake manifold requires different oil?
Cool experiment. Keep us posted!
Read this in a forum a couple days ago from oz tuning
Im switching next oil change
The noise is not coming from the DI pump. It is being caused by the DI pump, but the noise itself is typically the exhaust cam phaser on the passenger side. The added load of the DI pump and the stiffer valve springs in Gen 3 motors put a lot of extra force on that cam.
At very low loads and RPM, the oil pump is barely making 20-25 psi of oil pressure, and very minimal flow. So, then the VCT solenoids open to allow oil to enter the phasers to rotate the phaser, there isn’t enough pressure or flow to fill the galley quick enough to rotate the cam, and there’s a small amount of air inside the phaser for a split second, while the cam is being commanded to rotate. That causes the phaser to “rattle” back and forth until oil fills the galley and rotates the phaser. Is it ideal, no. Is it hurting anything, highly unlikely.
Now... why does it happen tuned and doesn’t happen stock. That’s because in our tune, we schedule the DI system to come online earlier, at lower loads and lower rpms. We do that, because this being a 12:1 CR engine, it needs all the knock protection it can get, especially if you choose to run low octane fuel. Direct Injection direct cools the cylinder, greatly increasing knock protection and performance. So, it’s a valid trade off. Better protection from something that definitely will hurt your engine, knock, versus the slight chance that if you feather the gas pedal juuust right, you’ll here the cam phasers rattle.
Let me be very clear this is not “ping”, “knock”, or “detonation” like everyone likes to describe any noise they ever hear an engine make. Trucks that have this issue will make the noise even with E85 in the tank, and it’s essentially impossible to cause knock on one of these engines on E85, without obscene amounts of boost. So.... it’s not knock.
Another easy test you can do yourself to prove to yourself, that “maybe” I might actually know what I’m talking about. 😉 When you hear the noise, press the pedal down just a little more. What this will do is instantly increase oil pressure and flow, abs the noise will stop. Now, if this were knock, increasing load would have the exact opposite effect. You would cause more knock because the cylinder pressures would increase with the added load/throttle.
Lastly, for everyone that’s hearing this noise, you should all check your oil levels. Everyone knows these trucks have oil consumption issues, and of the dozens of times I’ve explained this to various people 90% of the time the person complaining of the noise was down on oil.
So, things you can do to improve or eliminate the noise. First, make sure your oil level is full. I personally run an extra 1/2 quart of oil in all of my Coyote engines. I do this based on recommendations from several well known engine builders. Coyote engines tend to have a hard time with oil drain-back when driven hard, and that can leave you with an oil pan that’s basically dry at WOT. Adding an extra 1/2 quart is a good way to help with that, and have adequate oil flow will also help with this noise. Second, run 5w50 oil. It’s perfectly safe for any Coyote engine, and the added weight can increase oil pressure at low loads, which can help with this problem as well.
How much does it take the f150 2018-2021 5.0 quarts of oil ? Locally they say 8.1 quarts of oil
@@dramexlyuorden4845 8.8qts i put 9
@@elcochiii i have a tick tick noise when cold ones get warmed up it goes. Will putting 9 quarts and 5w50 eliminates that noise ?
@@dramexlyuorden4845 this engines tick, this is for decel rattle and its a phaser issue , do it at your own risk ,im changing to 5w50 on my next oil change though
Would going to 5w30 also help oil consumption
I've been running 5W-30 since last year in my 2020 Silverado with a 5.3 the only reason I'm running that is because just to prolong anything happening to the lifters when I initially got the truck I had 39K on it now since owning it for about a year since on the second owner has like 82k on it no lifter tick no failures yet
Every oil gets thinner when it warms/ heats up.. this 5w50 will not get as thin as a 5w20. Thats what he meant. Oil never thickens when it warms.
I’m Oz tuned on my 2019 F150 5.0L, too. And, I never had any oil consumption issues before my tune with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20. With the tune, on the same oil, I burned about 1.5-2 quarts over 5K miles. So, I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 on my last oil change to see if that helps. The oil consumption with the tune doesn’t really bother me, though. I just keep an eye on it and refill as needed. The Omega X tune is definitely worth a minimal amount of oil consumption to me.
Nice vid keep them coming
Well I'm here to tell you I use 20 50 in my 5.4 2008 Ford F-150 it does not burn oil. It gets great gas mileage with the air conditioner on I can climb the mountains of Pennsylvania just fine after 6 hours of trave from Detroit, before the mountains for another hour before arrival of my destination Minersville Pennsylvania. Oh and also it has $249,000 mi on it. I'm sticking to what works,
That last start and idle definitely quieter. I know what you mean about drive-thru and noise, had an converter shield that was loose, couldn't hear it except in drive-thru.
For everyone saying not to trust this guys . I also am tuned by oz tuning running the omega x tune and they recommend switching to 5w50
I just switched from 0W-20 to 5W-30 in my yota. I lost at least 1.5 MPG but gained less timing chain noise. With 0-20 I heard a lazy lifter when hot on restart and hear the same when cold running the 5-30. 1 million miles driving for me so far.
Where I am at the summer gets up to 50°C so my car manufacturer recommends 5W 20 and I usually put in the winter 5W-30 and in the summer 5W 40 and it’s really quiets it down. No issues and by the way, check your engine specification for clearance and compare it to the chart on engine temperature while running you’ll find I am correct.
I switched from 5w-20 to 5w-30 for my 2012 5.0 and plan to do the same thing for my 2014 3.7.
18-20 is a known bad block with the plasma arc lining, not cylinder sleeves like previous coyotes. I have a ‘19 coyote F150 and feel your pain, but truth is we got bad ones.
I have 2014, 2019 Subaru Forester, it recommend 0w-20 , but I put 5w-30 , it is quieter , specially valve tapping noise is much less. less noise may mean less wear.
Less oil between crank n main bearings
@@Turfcat150yes at start up and cold temperatures, but if you're doing a lot of off road/ highway driving in the summer I don't see it hurting anything especially in a high mileage engine. IMHO
How is it running?
Bro I love the hair do reminds me Lost Boys vampire movie
Should have had the camera around the wheel well. Thats where the tick/ knock is where its heard. Almost never hear it on top of the engine.
Straylya 🦘🦘🦘🦘….. FPV Supercharged 5.0, I’ve run it on 5/30 10/30 0/40 5/40 and even 15/40 …. No ticking, no oil burning. It’s a mild climate but notice no 0/20 5/20 in my decade of oil changes. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 kilometres.
0w40, 0w50 is what should be using. That stuff is going into super cars , diesels and can handle below freezing start up and high temp running .
Any update on how the oil is doing ?
With lettuce like that on your head the ladies must be drooling 🤤
Just add 25% gear oil and she will be fine. I have been using 80-90 GL-4 and my old jeep loves it.
Just fyi the weight scales of gear oil and motor oil aren't the same 😂 a 80w-90 gear oil is about thr same as a 20w-50 motor oil, if you dont believe me look it up
fool, why not add coolant too mr engineer.
0w-40 long life covers all situations
The Gen 1 coyote mustang with trac-pac recommended 5-50 for track use from the factory, it says it right on the oil cap. Motorcraft has a 5-50 synthetic blend for it. 5-20 is used mainly for emission standards in the U.S. the same car and engine in countries outside the U.S. recommend thicker oil 5-30. The manufacturer doesn't care if using that piss thin oil cause your engine to wear out faster.
If you're checking it when it's cold you're not supposed to do that in the manual it says to check after getting up to operating temperature and letting the truck sit off for 15 minutes to get an accurate reading I guess they change the dipstick to be measured when warm but I am making the switch to 5W30 I might just do 50 next if it works out better for you in this video I'm about halfway through so I'll know at the end
Any results you can share?
My 2020 Mustang eco boost uses 5w 50 only.
I’ve got a Mercedes CLA 250 160k light lifter noise, you think this 5W-50 will work in it?
Long story short, aluminum blocks allow for more audible noises that we would never hear in an iron block. The tapping IS the HPFP and not some rod, lifter, or roller bearing knock. Good video but I’d be worried about those lifters and tensioners being able to push that thick of an oil. BUT!…. I gotta question….. your 10r80, how has yours been? I have an early build 2018 with obviously the early build first time out 10r80, and it was replaced at 56k. No, no racing, no tug of war, no extreme towing, no nothing. Just curious on yours. So far my 13k miles on the new one has been “ok”
How’s it been the last few days in the cold? I’m from Michigan also.
Is it me or did the before video of the engine sound quieter than the after.
Rotational force and coverage are definitely terms i have not heard before in tribology😂
In my 2019, 5.0, I've had the best performance with 10w40 and I've got 120k miles on it. When I ran 5w20 I would randomly get phaser codes when the oil temp was at 200+. If I ran 5w40 it would run ok for 1000 miles, then the engine would start to get noisey and randomly throw phaser codes. 10w40 and 2 cans of liquid moly for anyone worried about bearing tolerances.
I noticed the same thing with 5w40. Noise and felt sluggish
I get phaser codes while towing my camper. Dealership tech said try a 40 weight. Guess I need an oil cooler. Hope it works because I was convinced it was the timing chain.
It doesn't thicken. Its on a linear graph. It supposed to be the thickness of a Hot SAE50 weight oil (which is still thinner than 5W).
Oil does not get thicker with heat. Yes In a sense it acts thicker but the higher the temp the thinner it gets.
Also 5w50 is much thicker cold than 5w20 is. The scale is pretty wide on how oils are rated. Best oil for a naturally aspirated coyote that’s not doing track sessions is 5w30. 5w50 for boosted applications.
Where are all the codes everyone claims that a heavier oil will cause? And the engine is supposed to get damaged too. Not a fan of 0w20 and thinner oils in hot climates. Especially with direct injection engines.
I just read on the tube today where Ford is recommending dipstick length change and a butterfly valve change on intake. Shorter dipstick causes overfill, and the computer equivalent for the butterfly valve in the old carburetor during de accleration sucks oil back thru pcv into the intake. The shorter improper dipstick causes overfill of 1 qt. or better. Thus exacerbating the issue into the intake manifold thru pcv. This was the 5.0 v8 engine in f150. All related to oil consumption issues with this engine.
You are not even close. The revised dipstick has a wider indicated operating range before needing oil added. This engine can be operated safely with it being 2 quarts low on oil. This was to alleviate some of the panic people were having over needing to add just 1 quart. The 2018 and up Coyotes in the F150 still need 8.7 quarts. Retired Ford Parts Manger here.
The oil activated timing chain tensioner on the F-150 is designed for the light oil --- heavy oil can make it fail causing expensive repairs at the least & total engine destruction at the worst [I won't make this mistake again!] Wish you the best.
The only year of the coyote motor that is having timing chain tensioner issues is 2011. The problem has since been corrected. As for the tensioner being designed for lighter oils, it is designed for certain oil pressure ranges in which thicker oils don't exceed. It is fine for the motor, that's why Ford performance, Whipple, and Roush recommend it.
5w-20 and 5w-50 is the basically the same viscosity at -25 degrees. I could see if you run 15w50 in really cold temps. I am almost 100% sure the chain tensioners are ratcheting so they don't back off when the engine sits.
Not true at all. The F150 in Europe takes 5W40 But in the US it takes 5w20. The thickness of oil isn't a big deal in big heavy hot engines. It really depends on where you live and how you drive
Is that why they're failing on the thin oils? Ah-ha, ah-ha! 😅
Ford changed the 5.0 oil weight from 5W20 to 5W30 now.............. GT500 uses 5W50, no big deal
Keep this in mind guys going from a 5:20 straight to a 5:50 you have to understand what is going to happen here going to a 5:50 with a very thick you have to understand what exactly are you expecting this oil to do for your engine your engine but absolutely is going to be very thick and your engine the problem is how are you going to be using your engine on a regular basis you have to understand when you go with a 50 your engine needs to be working really hard for it to not to gum up inside your engine now you guys want to go with so much thickness because you want to make sure it does not cause any ticket that itself is understood but do not get aggressive with the viscosity if your engine is not being used in aggressive hard-running way that oil is not for conservative driving keep that in mind it will thicken up more when the engine is warm if you're not using that engine to run very hard it will gum up and if you're not going to run it hard on a regular basis you going to cause your engine to have some problems later on keep this in mind racing motor oil is normally 0.50 because racing engines are always running hard at that level of a viscosity but once again 50 is not a normal operation running motor oil if you going to increase it to stop the engine ticking it's best to from a 5:20 to a 5:30 to be safe otherwise using a 5:30 you're asking for your engine to struggle pushing that oil through the cylinders what's also you being increasing engine temperatures inside your engine because it's too much thickness
Holy cow! Periods exist for a reason.
To me it sound louder with 5w-50
Because it does not have good Oil pressure at cold start with that Oil. Too thick.
But great for heat
@@danielfl.9347 at cold start its a 5W same as the other..
@@flexairz 5W/50 is more thick than 5W/20 at cold temperatures. 5Winter should Also be compared to the hot viscosity :-)
The start ups will be the same since the cold weight of oil is the same.
Valvoline restore will help
Change the PCV valve on that 5.0, and oil consumption will go away. Only use Motorcraft valve. Also, 5w30 might be a more viable option than 5w50, to be honest. If in Texax, I say ok, but Michigan; the top might be starving for some lube on cold starts.
Screw the potential issues you might be setting yourself up for....just get a Borla ATAK exhaust if the under-hood noise bothers you.🤔
LETT'S GETT AA UUPDATTE!!!!
5W50 acts like a 5W , cold, dont over think it
Why are you a solid 8 mpg off what you should be getting?
18 city, 20 highway. That must be some tune
He’s running e85 and a tune is the reason.
2014 5.0 went to 30 weight quieted exsauhst down on first start.
Don't know what climate your in but there's green leaves on the trees.
In colder temps engines with variable valve timing can set codes for valve timing with heavier viscosity oil being slow to pass through the screens in the vet solinoids.
Try Lucas it works they use it in drag cars
You have to watch this kinda wide range of viscosity oil. It takes A LOT of additives to get the oil to do that and could possibly break down quicker.
The 5.0 engine with its 32 valves and all the hardware required to actuate those valves, direct injection, aluminum block and 12:1 compression ratio (2018 and up) will be somewhat noisy. It is perfectly normal for this engine. If you want to run 5w50, it is your engine and your choice. I run 5w30 in mine because I pull a trailer. I believe 5w50 is just too thick.
My 2018 5.0 used 1 qt 5w-20 in 3000 miles … I changed to 5w-30 and fixed the use of oil.. imo I feel 5w-50 is not good if you use your vehicle for short runs.
i have never ran 5w20 I have always used 10w30 in the hotter summer time i will add bottle STP oil treatment
yup that will be needing a new motor wait to winter start
I don’t see an issue with 50wt in warmer months but winter months I wouldn’t use it in a normal 5.0. That is just me but everyone has an opinion.
Interesting topic and some good info but a serious lack of technical knowledge re oil. The hot oil has the lower viscosity than cold. I think CAFE stds is behind move to lower viscosity oils. Need to consider other engine differences, e.g LR use this coyote engine and switched from 5w20 to 0w20. Forum and LR tech comments suggest this was partially due to vvt concerns but they don't publish official reasoning. 0w20 doesn't sit well with me. At 100c these are sub 8 centistokes oils. A 5w40 would be up over 10 and inline with recommendations that German manufacturers provide. I would love to see independent expert testing done. I don't trust Ford or LR to recommend an oil that will provide longest engine life.
And I thought the guys that ripped phone books in half were strong can you imagine how strong someone is to rip a dirt bike?
Castrol Edge has 5w-50 in USA ? In Australia I have only seen 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, 20w-50 and 10w-60 in Shelf's at Auto-Parts Stores. Motorcraft also makes 5w-50 Full Synthetic is it any good ?
Also Coyote Engines take 9.5 Litres ( 10 Quartz ) of oil ?
Did anyone else think about the screens in cam phasers or the tighter bearing tolerances or timing chain tensioners with stock oil pump gear? Newer stock engines are slightly different at least 5.0 coyote r, but every squirrel gets away with a nut once awhile
"Close Tolerance" is a 100% made up term and ANYBODY who has rebuilt new and old engines knows this. Ford runs 5w-50 when track testing their 5.0 Mustang's and GM runs it new from the factory in their hot Vette engines....And it's all we run down here in Florida to keep our street cars from grenading....But I guess these are old slap happy motors....:)
When you changed your oil you over filled it 8.8 qt. You are blowing out the extra oil that extra qt!!!
5W-30 is all you need for gasoline engines and 5W-40 for diesel engines. Forget everything else.
I'd use the mfr recommended oil. Bearing clearances. Oil porting clearances throughout the engine.
Lambos use 10w60. Tolerances? STFU
thiker oil will protect the engine will rise oil pressure the engine will be quite and drink lees oil👍
Modern engines are not designed for thick oil due to the tiny oil passages
@@clb_52 use 0w40 you will see the difference all engines now blow up before 100k why because too thin oils and long oil change I am a mechanic I never blow a engine on my cars I use 5w40 change it evrey 5k KM I dri in hard condition not a drop of oil I lost no smoke no sludge 0w16 and 0w20 is fir the EPA boll of shit
@@clb_52 so tell me why bugatti use 0w60 that because the clearance is a lie my friend yes you need a 0w or a 5w but the second number need to be a 40 whgit or 50 or even a 60 in super cars
Everyone can do what ever they want but I do know for a fact when you run heavy weight oil in a vehicle that has hydraulic timing chain adjusters and other hydraulic dependent functions from a factory recommended oil viscosity some times the only safe way to do a cold start is foot to the floor and crank until you have oil pressure and even on mild temperature days it takes 30 seconds to register oil pressure. "THE OIL IS TOO HEAVY" . Just personal experience.
PS: I've had way to many discussions good and bad about what is the correct way to maintain Ford OHC engines my current vehicle is a 2018 and it was maintained better than the book at the dealer it grenaded on vacation with only 28,000 miles. For me after 3 F150 trucks over 19 years and cam issues with all "NO MORE FORD" thats how you fix the problem unless you feel the need to be part of a forum.
Sounds like a diesel? It doesnt sound good my 2013 is as smooth as butter practically silent must something else going on with that one
I run Rotella T6 5w40 in my coyote
Did you switch to this for any particular reason? Or have you always used it?
I think 5w30 would be the best for the engine.The 3.5 turbo runs 5w30.
Any idea if the oil pump is 'strong' enough or 'engineered' to handle the additional weight? 2016 5.0 with 68k miles. I'm considering doing what you did. Thank you.
I've got a 2016 f150 5.0L v8 and changed the oil from 5w30 back to original 5w20 now its shaking more than usual when i start the vehicle. Any thoughts on what's happening?
5W50 oil does not "thicken" when it is hot. You need to research how modern oil works.
5w-50 is more viscous (thicker) than 5w-30 at hotter temps. Its goes from 5 weight to 50 weight while 5w-30 goes from 5 weight to 30 weight. It's literally in the name.
@@ClutchMonsta 5W50 will be thicker than 5W30 at temp, but you need to research how multi-viscosity oils work and get back to me. You are telling me that oil will thicken as it heats up? They don't thicken, they just don't thin out more than a 50W will at that temp.
@Trent Morris I'm saying 5w-50 will be more viscous than 5w-30 at operating temp. The video nor I is saying it ends up more viscous in total than when it is cold. It's not hard to understand what's being said here, if you actually know how modern oil works.
@@ClutchMonsta In the video he says at around 1:50 that it "Thickens up quite a bunch." I am saying that is not what happens. 5W50 will thin out less than 5W30 at operating temperature. You are right that 5W50 will be more viscous than 5W30 at operating temp, but it doesn't thicken from a 5W to a 50W. If that was the case hot 5W50 would be more viscous than cold 5W50.
@Trent Morris thickens up a bunch compared to how 5w30 thickens up. Once again no one is saying it's ends up thicker hot than cold.
Just go with the all reliable 10w 30.
This is what I do
5W30!
I put it in my wifes Echo and it works great!
10w won't flow well enough
5w40 European is the best!
Scotty Kilmer says to never put in heavier oil than recommended because you'll just wear your engine out faster. He says if it's burning oil just add more oil.
Scotty Kilmer 😂
If its burning oil. Repair the thing.
He still alive?
Scotty Kilmer is wrong alot.
I run 1.6qt of Lucas Synthetic in mine. It’s noticeably quieter.
You can put any oils you like. The consequences of using the wrong oil will only be visible after 10 years onward. If you are planning to keep the truck for 5 years, then who cares, right?
47k miles on 5w50. Running since first oil change. No issues at all
My 2014 recommends 5w-30 in 4 bangers you run -20 not a v6 .
Ford engineers vs backyard mechanics, yall make your own decisions I'll stick with the knowledge of the engine room at ford motor company.
Ford Motor Company is not there for your best interest, they are there for their own interest, and the regulations they have to meet from the government. What really matters is what happens in the real world, and sometimes what happens in the real world is very different than what is discussed around a table or designed on the computer.
#1 selling selling truck for years for a reason
Yep, Ford engineers. The ones who brought you the Triton 3V and Ecoboost lineup. Sharp guys for sure!
Ford engineering with a timing wet belt running through oil..in the transit vans..faiures, all the time before service😢
👍🇨🇦
idk man 5w 50 is thick as hell i wouldn’t do more than 5w40
5w20 is not good for engines. That stuff will put metal shavings in your crankcase.
That engine may be quiet for now, but will not last long. It has internal damage to be making that noise to begin with.
Trust me he is doing major engine damage using this paste oil. Seen it many times at the dealer. People just wont listen to the engineers.
Its way to thick. In cold climents engine damage will be extensive and rapid. Very poor choice.
Agree. Most engine wear occurs on cold start. My dad was old school and used 30 wt. Heavier is better! Left his car in an unheated garage when he went to Ariz in the winter. Still cold in NY, he spun a rod bearing on start up. Had to replace the engine.
p[lease get to the point you repeat yourself to much thnks
Oils don't work as you describe.....you have much to learn grasshopper..
You use 5W-50 oil when your motor is at the end of its life cycle. Until then only use 5W-40.
I wouldn't trust this dude
Trust his hair
i had a car that took 0w40 and i put 10w40 in it and it ruined my engine
Things that didn't happen for $500, Alex.
Matching the hot temp rating is what matters
Folks who drive 1969 VW bugs run 5w50 in winter and 20w50 summer. You should use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. You going to ruin your engine running too thick.
🤡
Huge mistake