ER40 Collet Chuck Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2022
- accidentally starting making a replacement for a previous shop built ER40 Collet Chuck when I mounted my three jaw chuck. That video can be found here:
• Alternative Three Jaw ...
I'm honestly not sure what to think of the indicator runout readings, but i'm pretty sure it will be "good enough for what I do" as they say. I guess I say that too.
Here's a useful link with all the dimensions needs for various sizes of ER collets: www.takayama-shoji.co.jp/rego/...
If you like what I'm doing here and find some value in it, consider supporting my work on Patreon: / jeremymakesthings
I promise I'll still mostly make stuff out of rusty junk and not just buy shiny things with your money. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
a very 'in tenth ' video, after watching a second time a year later,
I want to compliment you on your style of video, to the point, and
informative.....now I am inspired to go make a ER40 collet holder for
my old South Bend 13....cheers from Florida, Paul
A blind man would be more than happy with that result. Good Work.
I did a 5C collet chuck for my lathe using pretty well the same operations you did. And I got similar results including the emery final finishing. You didn't clock in the surfaces of the taper. If you had I'd bet that you would have been dead on zero. The collets have some runout too after all. When I finished the surface with fine emery the idea wasn't to totally polish but rather to remove the crests of the machining marks. If done to that level we can actually improve the accuracy. That's because when we're removing crests off tapered tooling marks the abrasive action is self limiting. It'll cut more off the narrower points and less off the broader crests.
If you reach your limit of measurement, continue working, it will get worse, great job ... .0004 WOW
Hi,i made this comment to "This old Tony",i saw this on a vid about rebuilding my Triumph Spitfire gearbox and de-rusting parts,but it works great with bluing parts.
Get a (preferably) ziploc bag big enough for the part,do individual bag/part combo,if the part is profiled like the nose cap be sure the bag can get inside the part too,add enough bluing fluidto coat the part with a little extra ,put the part/bag combo in a bucket of warm water ,probably a nice hot cuppa tea(coffe in the states).
The hot water will compress the ziploc bag around the part forcing bluing sollution to make intimate contact all around the part,if you use a clear container you will see if you have added enough bluing fluid,allow the ziploc bag opening to be above the water line far enough to not allow water in and to allow you to top up until the part is fully immersed ,you will use far less than dumping fluid into a tub,it will hot blue with far more professional effective results,leave overnight for deepest bluing effect.
Hope you get a chance to do this as it is the best method by far,selenium dioxide is toxic and is better used in this way.
I want to make a collet chuck,thumbs up .
A good tip to feel less Smurphy while blueing, is to use another color :-)
That's a real good result. My lathe can't even dream of it.
This ol' Jeremytonystefan... 😁
I hope this doesn't sound kinky or weird, but I love to see bare hands and not various grades of fancy gloves in videos like this. I was taught that it's the job that matters, not the state of your manicure.🙂 Far too many TH-cam peeps are terrified of being criticised for not going all-out for personal protection; they enter their workshop dressed like a lumberjack wielding a chainsaw and as a result they're so isolated from the work that they obviously can't feel a thing.
Maybe it's got something to do with the use of CAD and CNC machinery; the idea that working by touch is somehow inferior to investing lots of money in the newest gear, then splashing out more cash on software before spending an hour programming coordinates, and finally pressing 'START' (with a safely gloved finger).
It's nice to see some old-school 'touchy-feely' machinist skills.
Scraped knuckles, blue skin, black fingernails and swarf cuts are a sign that your mind's on what you're doing NOW, not how you'll feel tomorrow.
If you've got a successful career as a hand-model selling jewellery or wristwatches, that's fine - wear gloves - you have to look after your main source of income. But maybe think about getting someone like Jeremy to do all your machining for you.
Hands are wonderful things if you give them a chance to do their stuff. The nicks and scratches soon heal, the scrubbed fingerprints reappear, and there's no substitute for experience gained so directly.
This comment will probably be deleted for promoting dangerous workshop behaviour...🤭
Hi Jeremy, a job well done. I was pleased to see you commit to the pin spanner hole before you started. Making a backing plate for my 5C chuck, I didn't. Fortunately I'd only just removed the 4 jaw so I remounted that to the new plate and used that to pry it off. Won't make that mistake again.
Setting the compound for the 8* angle I set a piece of drill rod the size of the collet in the 4jaw, centered, then slid the collet onto the bar. Set the compound Over to +-8*, ran the DI on the compound backwards and forwards while adjusting the angle until I achieved zero.
Mounted the blank and started whittling away until size was achieved. Test was done with the same piece of drill rod in the collet, blued up and achieved a satisfactory result. The holder (chuck) achieves about 0.0003" runout across my tested ER 25 collets.
I used the same method for a 5C to ER25 adapter to use in the spindexer.
For setting angles for Morse tapers I put a centre in the spindle and the tailstock and then mount a commercial Morse taper between those centers. Gives me good results. Just wish my compound travel was a little longer. It's at the limits of a #2 length wise.
🤞🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦🍌👍
Just found your channel...have been binge watching all weekend. Can't wait for more. Thanks!!
Enjoy it and i stick around
Old video, but here’s a good trick to make reading the blue easier: do it in stripes along the side, not all the way around. I’d also blue the reference (the male collet itself here) not the work. Smears and stripes on the reference are just as indicative as transfer to the work (sometimes more so - as shown)
Good job as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Precision on my lathe is as I say optional. Great result!
Precision on my lathe is accidental 😂
Precision is relative.
👍👍😎👍👍 …… seems simple enough, but all the tips to make it better are the magic. Thanks for showing us how.
I would be very happy with those results, excellent job man. 👍
a couple tenths on a Logan lathe! That's pretty good any day. I wonder how far it will deflect if you push on it?
wow, great job jeremy, thats incredibly good craftsmanship, im gonna give a collet chuck a try some day, i just need to get comfortable with single point threading first lol. loved that scratch mark, i've stared myself cross-eyed trying to find center on round stock, this is genius, thanks
Nice chuck Jeremy! I need to make one for my LeBlond lathe.
Looks like you got some mild bearing play
I was thinking that too.
Everything else on this lathe is worn, so I’d be surprised if there wasn’t.
@@JeremyMakesThings I’d say it’s possible to adjust those like I was able to on the atlas it’s a timken roller setup just a dial indicator on the taper and a bar just adjust till play is minimal and the spindle turns freely
Made a massive improvement on my old atlas’s was able to actually use carbide and part with it after
Unfortunately, these Logan’s have their own special preloaded spindle bearings that aren’t adjustable…but the replacement is still available. But given the cost, for now, it’s still “good enough.”
Fantastic result Sir but allow the question where one could get his hands on this little helper means your caliper with the scriber. Makes more sense than "wasting" expensive Verniers on rotating parts. Thanks a lot!
It’s called an “odd leg” or “Hermaphrodite” Calipers. I got these at a yard sale, but you can probably pick them up at the usual places.
@@JeremyMakesThings Classic case of "learn somethin' new every day"! Thank you!
Really nice work.
Came.out looking really good.👌
Hi Jeremy, further to my comments of three months ago I'd like to make a suggestion.
If the inner diameter of your chuck is about an inch you could cut the same internal thread as is found on a 5C collet and then you could use the depth stop for 5C collets in your ER 40 chuck when making repetitive bits. If the diameter is larger you could always cut a suitable thread and make a depth stop to suit.
I drilled the end of mine #6*32 so as to be able to screw a smaller depthing rod for down to about 1/8" material in my
ER 25 collets.
Lookin gooooood! Enjoyed watching.
really enjoyed this...thank you......
Love your channel
I can think of a few things that can mess it up. The final sanding by hand or collet run-out, cheaper imports usually have 0.01-0.02mm run-out .
I built a leadscrew controller for my lathe and turned ER40 chuck in-situ like you did and got about 0.005 - 0.01 run-out.
The cheaper imports often have more runout than that. I had to rig up a temporary tool post grinder to make an import chuck usable even for basic stuff since it had so much runout. And from what I've seen of YT reviews of these products I'm not the exception by a long shot.
@@brucematthews6417 true, you can still get decent ones on a reasonable budget. I got a set of ER40 collets for about $200AUD a couple of yrs back, stated accuracy 0.008mm which I have verified.
nice job 👍
enjoyed as always
It appears you have a sticky dial indicator. --Doozer
agreed. It does return to the same place when released, but I don’t have the highest confidence in it.
I'm sure you've heard it before about running threaded chucks in reverse. A friend of mine is insistent that I don't rewire the switch on my Clausing to do it for the same reason.
Having the chuck unthread is really only a risk if you’re cutting with it in reverse. For backing it out on doing metic (or other oddball) threads, it’s fine, and much better than turning it back by hand, since you can’t disengage the half nuts. It’s also handy if you’re cleaning up damaged threads on a part with a file, since you can let it run off the end.
@@JeremyMakesThings that's kinda how I see it as well, and it's ultimately my call, as it is yours. User discretion I suppose.
I've really been enjoying your content lately BTW. I just picked up said Clausing a couple weeks ago and am all for recycling materials.
Jeremy, the old timey techniques such as dragging across the top to find center are always good to see as, while they are not NASA quality, they are "good enough for the council" (an old pommie expression). I also like the 6inch ruler under the center drill and get it parallel to the vice jaws to get the same thing.
Subbed. Not only for the content, but this project was the exact thing I was looking for, for the exact same lathe. What are using for metric change gears?
Boston gear parts GB37 and GB47B, pinned together, drilled out, and a bronze bushing pressed in to mount directly onto the change gear stud. (I have the early style change gear studs).
@@JeremyMakesThings yeah, I guess I asked you the same question on a different video (snow maker), not realizing you were thr same guy. Lol. Thanks though, I really like your setup over the other options.
From what Logan Actuator says the back register fit on the ID of your chuck makes no difference and to some degree the thread fit is not critical either. They say the threads self center when you tighten and for the most part I have found this to be true. Also when test fitting threads always take a file and knock off the tips of the threads (or emery cloth in internal threads). A perfect thread profile isn't sharp. Threads that seem tight may actually be cut too deep. Good job on the taper. I bought a chuck and mounted it to a face plate. In hindsight it might have been easer to do what you did. Good video!
I can see how that works on the spindle in theory, but in practice, the first one I made did “move” over time. It would run true for a while, the go out of true, I’d clean it up and it would be good for a while, then go out again. Maybe it was thread wear, maybe it was dirt hiding in the spindle threads…at any rate, this one registers really well, and maybe that’s “belt and suspenders” but I think it should be good for quite a while.
@@JeremyMakesThings I'm guessing the better thread fit helped and not the unthreaded bore area.
Is there a previous video? I can’t seem to find it. Thanks.
It was this one: Alternative Three Jaw Chuck Mounting
th-cam.com/video/Rr1vfegdKaA/w-d-xo.html
Accidentally 🤣
9:56 but you didn't blue it😁
It all depends on the "Minimum precission level" you impose to yourself. On 90% of the shown techniques in this video, you're cutting corners, so you are shaving pieces of precission in the final product. I really don't get the point of choosing the "non precise method" when it comes to machining.
It's all relative, sometimes good enough is good enough ;)
Perfection is the enemy of good enough.
I prefer "Don't leave good enough". But that's me.