Mark, one way to approach this in regards to transfer punches... punch, drill and tap your first hole. Thread up the chuck, then punch for your subsequent holes. Your workpiece isn't likely to shift that way.
Mark, as always "I Like It". I don't know if we tell you enough, but you are a great teacher. Of course it's fun to showcase the things we make for our audience, but you never forget to pass on your knowledge in an easy to follow and understand manner, with all of those seeking to learn what is something taken for granted as we become proficient. So from me and all those silent but grateful listeners out there, Thank you. Gilles (PS: I'd love it if you'd have a peek over my side of the fence if you have a chance).
Outstanding job! I've seen a few of these but your video was the easiest to follow by a good bit. Thanks for taking the extra time to record, edit and share!
You are full of all kinds of updates here these days my friend. Thus chuck is going to see A LOT OF USE EH. Mine sure did. I don't know how I ever did without one.
I've been watching how to set up for long time never seen your outside setup on tool before. Cool cheap easy and works 😊. Thanks will use it on my lathe in my shop when i can learn to cut threads. Keep the good work going 👍. Knowledge acquired and will share 👍
Hello Mark. Nice looking project there. I have two suggestions. You can use your digital calipers to function like a dro when making the stub to fit onto the er collet body. Measure the diameter of the recess and then zero the calipers. Now measure the diameter of the backplate and the calipers will show the amount to be removed ( the difference in diameters) to make the stub. Divide that in half to get the radius to be removed. The other suggestion is to( I am sure you did this) take a break and let the backplate cool down to room temp before the final cuts. The stub will shrink enough to be noticeable if you cut straight to the final dimension while the part is still warm/hot from the cutting action
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Mark, one way to approach this in regards to transfer punches... punch, drill and tap your first hole. Thread up the chuck, then punch for your subsequent holes. Your workpiece isn't likely to shift that way.
Gday Winky, nice job, the runout could be in the collet as well, Cheers
Mark, as always "I Like It". I don't know if we tell you enough, but you are a great teacher. Of course it's fun to showcase the things we make for our audience, but you never forget to pass on your knowledge in an easy to follow and understand manner, with all of those seeking to learn what is something taken for granted as we become proficient. So from me and all those silent but grateful listeners out there, Thank you. Gilles (PS: I'd love it if you'd have a peek over my side of the fence if you have a chance).
Glad to see you made it home from the Flywheeler show. It was nice to meet you in person.
Thanks for inviting us into your shop to spend some time. Always enjoyable!
"Your other right!"
Man, what a great job. I didn’t know about the collet bearing-style nut. I’m ordering one now. Thanks 🙏
Outstanding job! I've seen a few of these but your video was the easiest to follow by a good bit. Thanks for taking the extra time to record, edit and share!
You are full of all kinds of updates here these days my friend. Thus chuck is going to see A LOT OF USE EH. Mine sure did. I don't know how I ever did without one.
Excellent job winky, great video, keep'um coming..
Nice Job Mark! That has been on my list for a while.
Exactly what I needed - thank you 😊
Nice job, Mark. Inspiring me to make one of these now!
Way to go Winky. Another excellent machining project done. I am sure you will get a lot of good use from that chuck.
Enjoyed…great video production/discussion demonstration/build
One more great video! Thank you!
Nice one Mark ! Turned out great 👍👍
I've been watching how to set up for long time never seen your outside setup on tool before. Cool cheap easy and works 😊. Thanks will use it on my lathe in my shop when i can learn to cut threads. Keep the good work going 👍. Knowledge acquired and will share 👍
Hello Mark,
Hello Mark. Nice looking project there. I have two suggestions. You can use your digital calipers to function like a dro when making the stub to fit onto the er collet body. Measure the diameter of the recess and then zero the calipers. Now measure the diameter of the backplate and the calipers will show the amount to be removed ( the difference in diameters) to make the stub. Divide that in half to get the radius to be removed. The other suggestion is to( I am sure you did this) take a break and let the backplate cool down to room temp before the final cuts. The stub will shrink enough to be noticeable if you cut straight to the final dimension while the part is still warm/hot from the cutting action