The worn out 3-jaw makes a nice work bench vise/holder. I had one kicking around at work and came in real handy numerous times just being able to hold something good and steady.
I have a 3 jaw that's brand new, along with the lathe that had over 3 thou of runout which was useless to me so I thought I'd try a half azz attempt at grinding the jaws. I put a 1/4 shank round stone for a cutoff wheel in my tool post, wrapped welding rod tightly around the center position of the chuck jaws and used the key to open them out tight against the wire. I spun the lathe up on its highest rpm and just barely touched the stone to the first jaw that touched and auto fed it through like a boring op. I did that on the slowest feed rate and stopped once all of the contact surfaces were shiny. When done I put a precision ground rod in it and checked the runout. 3 tenths at the chuck and a half thou 6 inches from it! Couldn't believe it worked that well.
I highly prefer using manual transmission oil additive that is pfte(teflon) based... It is almost as thick as a light grease, but has the lubricity and anti-corrosion properties of way oil... Its my go to lubricant for machines... Yeah, i use mobil way oil, but my oil can is filled with the additive, so when i lift up the tailstock to wipe the ways and such or feed the oilers, i use that can as it is just the best thing there is... I also use it on machine screws as they are essentially gears by the nature and forces involved, and the additive is 90% 90weight oil for man.trans. with no detergents and the rest is heavy friction modifiers and teflon solution... Smells great too... If you like the smell of high pressure lubes... I highly recommend it! If you prefer grease, buy a cheapo replacement cv joint boot for any car and with it you get a bag of 300grams of cv axle grease, which is also a great lubricant... Its a thick as fuck grease with a very high molydisulfi content which lasts for ages, but do clean it up and maintain it fresh, as car axles are shielded with a rubber boot, but chucks eat up chips and the grease however good becomes a grinding compound sooner or later... Cheers mate...
Awesome video and narration Jeremy. Very easy to watch, and funny and interesting too. Great stuff. Looking forward to that collet chuck build. Thanks for sharing.
Well this video came at a perfect time! I now believe I have an adapter on my spindle instead of my lathe spindle having a very odd thread. Great video, thank you 😁
Jeremy, another great video! Really enjoy your work. I'm casting iron, and machining with a home built lathe and old equipment, also in VT -- it would be great to meet up some day. Keep up the videos!
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but a four-jaw can totally grip hex stock. It's just inconvenient with independent jaws. Anyway, love all your videos.
I sprung the adapter on my three jaw the second time I used the lathe, while trying to remove a weld from a sprocket hub. It was made by someone else, they didn't do a good job. How bad was it? The lathe was on a temporary motor, 3/4 h.p. The lathe was in it's lowest back gear, and I had to help it get started. The adapter was supported entirely by the thread, it also had the (100 lb. +) Bison chuck hanging way out over the bed. So, my first precision work in more than 30 years, plus my first boring and internal threading job ever, was a new adapter for the three jaw (yeah, no pressure!). Roughly 2-9/16 bore for the register, 5 tpi threading with a very springy, very old, lantern post mounted boring bar. That tended to slip. So, add a 'near crash' course in picking up a thread. Anyone dealing with threaded spindles and heavy chucks, I suggest that you make up a dummy spindle to use in projects like this one. I did, using the faceplate for gauging the fit. One end is a duplicate of the spindle, the other end is a bore gauge for sizing the threaded area minor diameter. For me, it was well worth the extra effort, things fit and proved out, with repeatability, on the first try. It now collects dust while sitting on a shelf, waiting for the next chuck mounting project.
@@ExtantFrodo2 I've seen threads integrated with tapers on a lesser known brand of surface grinder, that (in short), created more problems than it solved. Nearly impossible to break loose. Getting the chuck positioned correctly to the spindle (back of the chuck as close to the headstock as possible) will give the best results.
Amazing. Your joke about the Roosevelt administration was simultaneously asked by me and answered by you “Which one”. I suspect you planned it that way.
Jeremy, I'm confused on two fronts. At one point you said you didn't have the change gears to cut one of the threads. You then proceeded to cut both???. Then you say you're going to use your first attempt at the adapter to remake your ER collet chuck but you then mount it in the six thou off center chuck to begin machining the front of your "new" ER collet chuck. Surely, since you'd already cut the headstock thread, you would mount the stock back directly on the spindle and turn it from there??? Maybe I missed something but I'm not sure what or where. Maybe your subsequent video will explain. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🤔🇨🇦🍌🇺🇦🕊️👍
The change gear thing was a reference to This Old Tony throwing levers on his lathe to time travel, often to go into the future to get what ever he’s working on to make…whatever it is (see his boring head video.) the joke is I don’t have a quick change gear box, and I don’t have the proper change gears for time travel, so I can’t go into the future to get the three jaw chuck…which would have made the project easier. On the collet chuck, I think it I just did it for “demonstration purposes only” for the ending of the video, I don’t think I turned anything like that.
Ok Jokes on me. I heard the TOT comment but didn't relate it to the quick change box. As to the ER chuck I was just making sure you weren't about to do something crazy. Ask me how i know?
I swear I have both of those four and three jaw chucks, and yeah the three jaw is about good for nothing but: 1. Parting off when my good three jaw would just chatter, and 2: when whatever's going in it REALLY doesn't matter.
The problem with my lathe is that it can't cut the threat pitch of it's own spindle nose. I think that's a bit stupid. Very good video Jeremy. I enjoyed watching.
Same here. Very stupid! Of all the ones to include in the set of gears to ship with a lathe it's infuriating for them not to include ones needed to work on the machine itself. I've been putting it off, but at some point I will have to make custom change gears to enable this.
@@ferrumignis Because a light oil will be mostly thrown out of the chuck when spinning whereas grease will just stay there and collect dust and bits which then turns it into a kind of grinding paste....wearing out the chuck 🇬🇧🙂
The worn out 3-jaw makes a nice work bench vise/holder. I had one kicking around at work and came in real handy numerous times just being able to hold something good and steady.
Also with a motor of some kind (random windshield wiper motor for example) it's a good rotary table for welding.
@@deeiks12 I was thinking the same thing, perfect use for a worn out three jaw.
So what you’re saying is I shouldn’t…..chuck….it?
So what you’re saying is I shouldn’t…..chuck….it?
These videos are just superb Jeremy. Well shot, well written, interesting subject matter.
I have a 3 jaw that's brand new, along with the lathe that had over 3 thou of runout which was useless to me so I thought I'd try a half azz attempt at grinding the jaws. I put a 1/4 shank round stone for a cutoff wheel in my tool post, wrapped welding rod tightly around the center position of the chuck jaws and used the key to open them out tight against the wire. I spun the lathe up on its highest rpm and just barely touched the stone to the first jaw that touched and auto fed it through like a boring op. I did that on the slowest feed rate and stopped once all of the contact surfaces were shiny. When done I put a precision ground rod in it and checked the runout. 3 tenths at the chuck and a half thou 6 inches from it! Couldn't believe it worked that well.
9:00.....fantastic idea of removing chuck to maintain
thread placement.....Bravo
wonderful video,
love your style of telling the story,
and the visual are fantastic too......
best wishes from Florida, Paul
Humorwise you are in the same boat as the Tony guy - love it !
1156 was the registry number of the USS Terrebonne Parish, a Tank Landing Ship, built in 1952.
People will say "don't use grease on chucks". But I've had grease in my chucks for years and it's never been a problem. Good job with this one!
I highly prefer using manual transmission oil additive that is pfte(teflon) based... It is almost as thick as a light grease, but has the lubricity and anti-corrosion properties of way oil... Its my go to lubricant for machines... Yeah, i use mobil way oil, but my oil can is filled with the additive, so when i lift up the tailstock to wipe the ways and such or feed the oilers, i use that can as it is just the best thing there is... I also use it on machine screws as they are essentially gears by the nature and forces involved, and the additive is 90% 90weight oil for man.trans. with no detergents and the rest is heavy friction modifiers and teflon solution... Smells great too... If you like the smell of high pressure lubes... I highly recommend it! If you prefer grease, buy a cheapo replacement cv joint boot for any car and with it you get a bag of 300grams of cv axle grease, which is also a great lubricant... Its a thick as fuck grease with a very high molydisulfi content which lasts for ages, but do clean it up and maintain it fresh, as car axles are shielded with a rubber boot, but chucks eat up chips and the grease however good becomes a grinding compound sooner or later...
Cheers mate...
Gotta love that Tony fellow and his time travel.
spare 3 jaw chuck idea? build a welding positioner, between that and a face plate would handle most small scale things.
Just found your channel after I bought my logan 11 to hopefully replace my south bend 9. +1
Your videos are quickly becoming some of my favorites.
If you need an AXA dial indicator holder, I’d be happy to print you one and send it out!
Awesome video and narration Jeremy. Very easy to watch, and funny and interesting too. Great stuff. Looking forward to that collet chuck build. Thanks for sharing.
Good job yet again. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Well this video came at a perfect time! I now believe I have an adapter on my spindle instead of my lathe spindle having a very odd thread.
Great video, thank you 😁
Great video! Love the ToT reference lol keep up the good work!
Jeremy, another great video! Really enjoy your work. I'm casting iron, and machining with a home built lathe and old equipment, also in VT -- it would be great to meet up some day. Keep up the videos!
Shoot me an email sometime- jeremymakesthings@gmail.com
Nice chuck work!
Nice work Jeremy...
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but a four-jaw can totally grip hex stock. It's just inconvenient with independent jaws. Anyway, love all your videos.
That came out awesome 👍👍😎👍👍
I sprung the adapter on my three jaw the second time I used the lathe, while trying to remove a weld from a sprocket hub. It was made by someone else, they didn't do a good job. How bad was it? The lathe was on a temporary motor, 3/4 h.p. The lathe was in it's lowest back gear, and I had to help it get started. The adapter was supported entirely by the thread, it also had the (100 lb. +) Bison chuck hanging way out over the bed.
So, my first precision work in more than 30 years, plus my first boring and internal threading job ever, was a new adapter for the three jaw (yeah, no pressure!). Roughly 2-9/16 bore for the register, 5 tpi threading with a very springy, very old, lantern post mounted boring bar. That tended to slip. So, add a 'near crash' course in picking up a thread.
Anyone dealing with threaded spindles and heavy chucks, I suggest that you make up a dummy spindle to use in projects like this one. I did, using the faceplate for gauging the fit. One end is a duplicate of the spindle, the other end is a bore gauge for sizing the threaded area minor diameter. For me, it was well worth the extra effort, things fit and proved out, with repeatability, on the first try. It now collects dust while sitting on a shelf, waiting for the next chuck mounting project.
For chucks that heavy, perhaps integrating a Morse taper would provide needed extra support?
@@ExtantFrodo2 I've seen threads integrated with tapers on a lesser known brand of surface grinder, that (in short), created more problems than it solved. Nearly impossible to break loose.
Getting the chuck positioned correctly to the spindle (back of the chuck as close to the headstock as possible) will give the best results.
Great video man, keep'um coming.
Amazing. Your joke about the Roosevelt administration was simultaneously asked by me and answered by you “Which one”. I suspect you planned it that way.
Wait, what? That stock wasn’t rusty or something else prior. Is this really a Jeremy video? 13:33 - ah. Sanity restored. 😆
Jeremy, I'm confused on two fronts.
At one point you said you didn't have the change gears to cut one of the threads. You then proceeded to cut both???.
Then you say you're going to use your first attempt at the adapter to remake your ER collet chuck but you then mount it in the six thou off center chuck to begin machining the front of your "new" ER collet chuck. Surely, since you'd already cut the headstock thread, you would mount the stock back directly on the spindle and turn it from there???
Maybe I missed something but I'm not sure what or where. Maybe your subsequent video will explain.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🤔🇨🇦🍌🇺🇦🕊️👍
The change gear thing was a reference to This Old Tony throwing levers on his lathe to time travel, often to go into the future to get what ever he’s working on to make…whatever it is (see his boring head video.) the joke is I don’t have a quick change gear box, and I don’t have the proper change gears for time travel, so I can’t go into the future to get the three jaw chuck…which would have made the project easier.
On the collet chuck, I think it I just did it for “demonstration purposes only” for the ending of the video, I don’t think I turned anything like that.
Ok Jokes on me. I heard the TOT comment but didn't relate it to the quick change box. As to the ER chuck I was just making sure you weren't about to do something crazy. Ask me how i know?
Buy a sonic cleaner. That and simple green is an amazing thing!!
Jemery, what is the diameter of the stock you used for ER collet holder. What size of collet? Thank you
It was 2-1/4” for er40 collets
Hi what do you mean with simple green?
It’s a cleaner/degreaser.
It’s a cleaner/degreaser.
@@JeremyMakesThings it can remove rust?
It doesn’t usually. I think in this case it was just some brown grease that looked like rust.
BTW A machinist mate in the US Navy is not a machinist,hes an engineer.A machinist would be a Hull Technician.
I swear I have both of those four and three jaw chucks, and yeah the three jaw is about good for nothing but: 1. Parting off when my good three jaw would just chatter, and 2: when whatever's going in it REALLY doesn't matter.
Imma make a Chuck key from this old drill bit, oops, I made it a Charles Edward Winchester III key.
My lathe doesn't come with the right combination of change gears to cut a spindle thread. How lame is that? Time to make some gears. Grrrr!
How may smidgens equal a not very much? 😁
Metric or imperial?
Bedsitbob, three fifths of five eighths of SFA just about covers it.
👍👍👍😎
The problem with my lathe is that it can't cut the threat pitch of it's own spindle nose. I think that's a bit stupid.
Very good video Jeremy. I enjoyed watching.
Same here. Very stupid! Of all the ones to include in the set of gears to ship with a lathe it's infuriating for them not to include ones needed to work on the machine itself. I've been putting it off, but at some point I will have to make custom change gears to enable this.
Strip them chucks again, clean off all the grease you put in there then reassemble with a LIGHT OILING...
You don't use grease on chucks.
🇬🇧😐
Why not? Both grease and oil will cause chips to get stuck, so I don't really see the issue.
@@ferrumignis
Because a light oil will be mostly thrown out of the chuck when spinning whereas grease will just stay there and collect dust and bits which then turns it into a kind of grinding paste....wearing out the chuck
🇬🇧🙂
@@glennmoreland6457 If the oil gets thrown out of the chuck it's not going to be very useful to the chuck...
@@ferrumignis
No.
It'll leave a very light film of oil in the areas where you want it....
But not enough to attract dirt & dusts
🇬🇧🙂
@@glennmoreland6457 Any amount of oil will cause dirt and dust to stick to it, a thinner film doesn't magically stop this.
Nice work, and it's not hard to tell who your hero is . Thanks for the look.