G'day everyone, Looks like I had to reupload the video I just posted. Thank you for letting me know that the last 6 minutes was missing. Not exactly sure what occurred there but Adobe Premiere Pro just decided not to render the last 6 minutes of the video. Cheers. Hope you enjoy the video
th-cam.com/video/B_jmYsm8Prw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UyYAJM257LvgzyoV I don't know where else to post it so I'll just put it here. This guy is stealing your content
😮 You heathen! Of course there is a difference! But only those of us who are cultured can appreciate the difference between a lowly sparkling chuck and the refined bouquet of a Collet paired with just the right metal 😊
Its so wild watching small lathe projects like this and then going over to Cutting Edge Engineering’s channel and seeing parts that have to be transported and mounted with the help of a forklift or overhead gantry. The range of machining is huge.
@@alexcrouse I agree. I have a late 1800's Putnam Machine Co lathe that my buddies full size skid steer could hardly pick up. It ain't makin a cut like that!
Some inheritance machining style soft jaws would be a fun future project. Not that they're necessary at all, but they seem pretty convenient and look super good. They'd also show up in almost every video, so I think it's worth the effort
@@dsgs2776 I don't know what faf means, but IM's design is obviously unnecessarily complex and made to be pretty. AM is pretty gifted in making simple, but functional things.
Great video, I never thought of getting collets until I had struggled with chucks for about 20 years, and now I don't think I could survive without them. Enjoyed the video, cheers and thanks!
Beautiful project and very nicely done. The razor sharp "for aluminum" inserts are a joy for our smaller machines. Take a look at some other shapes, and you can increase the durability.
I love it! When you were test fitting the chuck to your spindle I was saying "Yes, slowly creep up on that fit with abrasives" and you did! When I do this I'm going to be fitting it to a 2-1/4" - - 8 TPI spindle nose, on my SB H10. No matter,..you gave me all I needed at my end . Thank you! Wakodahatchee Chris
@@alexcrouse Hi Alex. Sorry but you lost me. Removing 'what' from the taper? I have a suspicion that your spindle nose is not the 'OLD' standard 2.25" - 8TPI .
Nice work. I made pretty much the exact same chuck for my SC3 Lathe. I too didnt trust my calipers for the internal measurement, but lucky for me, I had made an aluminium adaptorplate for mounting my lathe chucks to my rotary table the year before. Seemed pretty reasonable to me at the time to use that as a gauge. Unbenounced to me though, that adaptorplate had been growing a nice and healthy oxide layer. About 0.03mm thick! When I first tried the chuck on, I quickly realized it wasn't as tight as I'd hoped. Came to find the adaptorplate didn't fit any of my chucks anymore 😅. I have been thinking up ways to fix it ever since, but it's still usable as is. Just need to put an indicator on it and knock it into alignment every time I use it.
Did one of these a few years ago. Use it so much, I bought a second lathe to make a dedicated collet lathe. Make yourself some split arbors for square and hex stock.
I felt like I was in the twilight zone after I watched the last video and it ended suddenly, scrolled down to see if anyone had commented and saw there were NO comments, and then I refreshed and the video had gone xD
My mate Chuck has a girlfriend friend called Collette but you can't put round things ....never mind. Useful bit of kit, it explains why Colletts are pretty much the only chucking system watch makers use thanks for sharing
You can really speed up your four-jaw setups with two accessories. 1) A dedicated dial indicator that mounts in your tool post exactly at spindle center height that you can mount quickly, and 2) a second chuck wrench so that you can move opposing jaw pairs together. There are several videos illustrating the method, perhaps you've seen some. It almost makes the four-jaw fun to use.
A very good job mate! I'm surprised a one horse motor can make 4 mm depth of cuts. Well impressed! Do you have a diamond blade in a grinder? You can touch up the side rake on those aluminium inserts to sharpen them again and get at least three times the use from them ( probably only twice using on steel though lol)
What I find with ER collets is that when trying to clap down on a part at the smallest end of the range fir either a metric or inch collet, is that you have to really close the holder down, practically bottoming out the nut. I’m not comfortable with that. They do have half mm size collets which I’ve bought, and it’s much better. Also 1/32” collets. Since I have both ranges, I’ve found that with in between size parts, drill bits, etc., sometimes a metric collet has a better fit for inch size parts and visa versa. Another thing about ER and DA type collets is that as they have no locating pin, if you don’t have the best quality collets or chuck, you can turn the collet in the chuck to get the best concentricity, and mark both the collets and chuck to line them up with the least runout. Just remember to put the collet chuck on the spindle the same way each time. I’ve been able to achieve zero runout with my Bison Chuck and Techniks collets this way. It’s harder to achieve this with a screw on chuck mounting, because those aren’t capable of repeating their centering.
Having same lathe and a bought collet chuck. Runout 30 microns. So you did the right decision to make your own. But it might depend on collet quality. Lots of cheap collets not worth buying.
A bit late since you have already renoved it from the spindle but you should mark the chuck so when you reinstall it, it goes back in the same orientation as it was machined in. Should give you a little better repeatability (might not matter if your spindle interface is good though).
Thank you for a little real-time footage, also the algorithm is and asshole I have to search for your videos. Maybe cause ads are off and no I am not saying turn the ads on, I feel that's not fair to us all!. But anyway I love your Videos!
Nicely done. I suggest you investigate CCGT inserts for finishing rather than the diamond type - there might be a little more rigidity and tool life although they are not quite as versatile. I have found that I rarely use the CCMT for anything but roughing.
amazed you got even close to matching tapers using a single mm of travel. Much better to use say 50mm and multiply the calculated infeed by 50. This also multiplies the error. It's called similar triangles.
Will that taper be that accurate, setting it off such a small distance? The larger the distance you set it off, the more accurate you should be able to get it.
My thoughts as well. Now, the result seems to be really good. Impressive! 👍 As a rule of thumb though, if possible, indicating over a greater distance is favorable.
I see that he uses a billet. Whenever I do this sort of thing I rough out a flange then bore heat and drop a boss having made sure I have weld prepped the parts. Once this welded together it saves a lot of machining. I have used this method many times for boat prop shaft couplings. I have put 750 Hp through them with no problems.
Looks like it came out great. I was a bit skeptical of the entire chuck being held on by only the three m8’s. But I guess if it could handle those 4mm cuts it should be fine. Worst case set it back up in the vice, pop some clearance holes through the threads, and through bolt it.
That gear head lathe is designed to remove steel. But I would let the motor rest half way through removing all that material. Fell asleep watching video , up early. Good content very handy small turning. Impressive lathe. Any backlash?
Can you tell me where you get your metal from here in Aus. I am in Townsville and have a rough time finding material for my projects. As for tool steel forget it. I can certain sizes and only get mild steel up here unless it is in full 6 meter lengths. Any help would be appreciated
i recommand cutting with an aluminium insert at a cutting speed of 40% of the coated insert at least, can even be slower VC being max 80m/min compared to 185m/min for a C45 with TiCN steel insert basicly cut it at the same speed as if you were slot milling with an uncoated carbide mill
Amazing work! Didn't learn much new but enjoyed it a lot. Is there a specific reason that you did not use trepanning in removing so much material and save some of the metal? Probably time is my guess
Hi. I have a Warco WM250 lathe which I believe is a similar size to yours, although NOT a geared head. Anyway, my chucks mount in the same way that yours do, and I've thought a couple of times about making an alternative chuck mounting system along the lines of a D1-4 , D1-6 etc. Unfortunately (for me), I'm not geared up at to do it at the moment due to a complete rearrangement of my workshop space, as well as a number of other projects on the go, but I did make a wooden mock up of a single 'peg' and lock of the D1-4 system just so that I could understand it better, and as a result I think it's definitely a possible and credible thing to make. Last time I searched for such a DIY thing, I didn't find anything, so you might even be the first to do it. I'm certain there would be considerable interest in it. I'm sure you're au fait enough with it to work it out, but give me a shout if you want to know about what I had in mind. Regards Mark in the UK
Funny you should mention that because I have thought of the exact same thing. Some type of 125mm to D1 or L0 adapter. Ive spent a good amount of time thinking about it but I haven’t landed on a design and material that I’d be happy doing. Yet. For me I’d want to harden the adapter plate and grind it in to make it durable and I don’t think I have a set up to accommodate that the moment.
I would probably have machined the inside taper before spending time cutting away all that excess outside material, since the inside taper is a much more difficult operation to get right. (I don't think you need a compression ring, to test mounting a ground bar in a collet, and check fit and measure run out.) At least on my current little cheapskate lathe, the three jaw chuck's mounting recess is somewhat oversize. I figure this is probably actually intentional, to allow dialing in and minimize runout, those times runout really matters? Kind of a makeshift replacement for a four jaw chuck, but limited to large diameter round pieces. I haven't used this "feature" though. Just doing operations in the right order and way, has so far made the three jaw chuck limitations manegeable. Luckily, my toolholding morse taper collet chuck - just like the one you showed - has covered my needs so far. (I do very small parts for 45mm gauge model steam locomotives.)
Drop some decent dough or spend some time doing something you like to make a simple tool assist, vs spending 3-4 min every.time.you.chuck.in.the.4.jaw.chuck.for.the.next.5.-.10.years.... Logic is like good Content, some people have it, and, (quick check of your profile) some don't.
Nice job on the Chuck, I was surprised at how deep you could cut. Can I ask where you order your steel from? I am in the sticks and finding material is really difficult
Would It not be more accurate to use a dial gauge to locate the part on the mill? I guess the holes dont have to be super accurate though as they are just holding the chuck to the plate, as the recess is the thing doing the locating.
Wouldn't the taper be much more accurate with a sine bar? I'm not sure how accurate / linear dial indicators usually are. Sweeping across the sine bar with the indicator remaining at zero removes all that uncertainty.
I like to ask your 4 jaw chuck is bolt to the lathe with 3 bolt or four? I have lathe and i need independent 4 jaw my late chuck i bolt with 3 bolt let me know what model of you 4 jaw chuck is and where you ordered from thanks
iirc there are chucks that have a cone instead of cylinder for locating. they are pulled in by 4 pins that have a small round shape on one side. So you dont need to make it 95.000+0.001mm :)
I think that with the sanding the flange down method you made the mating surface into a cone. Because of that, it had the self holding fit that made you think "yep, that's good". In reality, this is not perfect. Probably good enough though.
I wont to know why u had not used dividing head assembly or rotary turn table for drilling holes. Since they r more accurate compared to milling axis positioning fwd reverse backlash error generated by screw.
I won't bore you with the boring backstory; but have you given any thought as to whether the gearing could be changed to enable this metric lathe to do imperial threads? Many thanks, steve
Yes but you would need to remachine the gear banjo that connects the gearboxes together. Then you could add the correct gears to set this up to cut imperial
why not take the moving jaw of the vice and place it on the back with the part ontop of the moving jaw thats where those holes in the back side are for ;)
I don’t have a v jaw that could be used with the outside of the vise jaws flipped. And I forgot or face down the other side first so it wasn’t sitting flat. I needed a v jaw vise so it would sit vertically
@@artisanmakes wouldnt it be possible to use the same vjaw as you did on the vise you used just leave it loose against the static jaw in the normal vice . Like normal | |_ jaw oudside | _| jaw with vblok |< _| .
For larger diameter Bar what is your preferred local supplier in Victoria? I am a 4 hour drive from Melbourne so locally it is a pain for sourcing. Also chasing a supplier for 4140 if anyone knows?
is there a vostaelpine near you mate? I've been able to buy steel by the meter off them, otherwise theres aus maker supplies, nordic edge and gameco artisan supplies or sell various grades of high carbon/tool steels in various sizes
@@dragonwing4ever Thanks, I was more after bar rather than flat knife type blanks. Vostaelpine I haven't run across in the past but next time I am in the big smoke I will chase them up (nearly 400km away). 👍
G'day everyone,
Looks like I had to reupload the video I just posted. Thank you for letting me know that the last 6 minutes was missing. Not exactly sure what occurred there but Adobe Premiere Pro just decided not to render the last 6 minutes of the video. Cheers. Hope you enjoy the video
Thanks for the update, I was wondering why the video disappeared right after I stopped watching it!
Great job well thought out 🎉🎉😊
Re-watching it to get the end :)
Thank you, that was fun. What is in your squirt bottle for cutting fluid?
th-cam.com/video/B_jmYsm8Prw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UyYAJM257LvgzyoV
I don't know where else to post it so I'll just put it here. This guy is stealing your content
It isn't a real collet chuck unless it comes from the Collete region of France. Otherwise it's just a sparkling squishy holder thing.
As a Colletois, thanks for pointing that out. Most people don't know this fabulous invention comes from here.
I had an occasion where a woman named Colette held up a drill bit; that was what came to mind.
But Sparkling chuck and collete are the same thing 🥱
😮 You heathen! Of course there is a difference! But only those of us who are cultured can appreciate the difference between a lowly sparkling chuck and the refined bouquet of a Collet paired with just the right metal 😊
@ianbruene1528 Oh, well played. Well played indeed 👏👏👍
Its so wild watching small lathe projects like this and then going over to Cutting Edge Engineering’s channel and seeing parts that have to be transported and mounted with the help of a forklift or overhead gantry.
The range of machining is huge.
Try HAL Engineering in Central Qld, they make Kurtis look like a hobbyist. They need to carry their big boring bar with the overhead crane
that 4mm cut was damn impressive
depends on the depth of cut
My 1939 South Bend 16" lathe can't do a cut like that. And it weighs 2600lbs!
@@alexcrouse I agree. I have a late 1800's Putnam Machine Co lathe that my buddies full size skid steer could hardly pick up. It ain't makin a cut like that!
Your sense of Humor is awesome. You and This Old Tony are the most fun to watch and learn from for my money.
True; it's a shame ToT doesn't post as often these days
Y’all missing out on inheritance machining
@@FamTech. Nope, subscribed to them too ;)
Don't forget Blondihacks 👍
If you like machining combined with a sense of humour you could try Inheritance Machining and Not An Engineer. Both are really good.
Some inheritance machining style soft jaws would be a fun future project. Not that they're necessary at all, but they seem pretty convenient and look super good. They'd also show up in almost every video, so I think it's worth the effort
But a total faf to make
@@dsgs2776 I don't know what faf means, but IM's design is obviously unnecessarily complex and made to be pretty. AM is pretty gifted in making simple, but functional things.
Nicely done buddy, I really like collet chucks, too. Thanks for sharing 🎉
Great video, I never thought of getting collets until I had struggled with chucks for about 20 years, and now I don't think I could survive without them. Enjoyed the video, cheers and thanks!
Beautiful project and very nicely done. The razor sharp "for aluminum" inserts are a joy for our smaller machines. Take a look at some other shapes, and you can increase the durability.
This was so interesting I had to watch it twice. Great job! That little lathe just really surprises me
I love it! When you were test fitting the chuck to your spindle I was saying "Yes, slowly creep up on that fit with abrasives" and you did! When I do this I'm going to be fitting it to a 2-1/4" - - 8 TPI spindle nose, on my SB H10. No matter,..you gave me all I needed at my end . Thank you!
Wakodahatchee Chris
I had to make a collet nose for my SB16 recently. I still need to make the nut to make removing it from the taper less of a nightmare!
@@alexcrouse Hi Alex. Sorry but you lost me. Removing 'what' from the taper? I have a suspicion that your spindle nose is not the 'OLD' standard 2.25" - 8TPI .
way you work it seems so easy well-done mister
Good job as always. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Nice work and sweet upgrade! Love my collet chuck, real time saver.
Great project, great video, and as always great job.
Thanks for sharing.
Great job, colleague👍👍👍
Fantastic work. For what it’s worth I enjoy your videos more than Adam’s anymore. Even if you didn’t achieve his chip perfection. :-).
Holy sh!t my guy. What a rigid setup! Awesome video!!
Nice work. I've planning this for quite some time for my little Logan. Thanks for sharing.
Nice job!
Those deep cuts were impressive, that thing was taking off steel like it was peeling a potato!
I love those style collets, so versatile.
That's one big chunk of metal to cut on that machine, great job
Very nice work. I have a collet and chucks, I really need to start using it.
Nice work. I made pretty much the exact same chuck for my SC3 Lathe. I too didnt trust my calipers for the internal measurement, but lucky for me, I had made an aluminium adaptorplate for mounting my lathe chucks to my rotary table the year before. Seemed pretty reasonable to me at the time to use that as a gauge. Unbenounced to me though, that adaptorplate had been growing a nice and healthy oxide layer. About 0.03mm thick!
When I first tried the chuck on, I quickly realized it wasn't as tight as I'd hoped. Came to find the adaptorplate didn't fit any of my chucks anymore 😅.
I have been thinking up ways to fix it ever since, but it's still usable as is. Just need to put an indicator on it and knock it into alignment every time I use it.
Another nice shop tool you made. Cheers 👍💪✌
Looks like a handy piece of tooling. Good job.
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Wow, impressive result!
Did one of these a few years ago. Use it so much, I bought a second lathe to make a dedicated collet lathe. Make yourself some split arbors for square and hex stock.
I felt like I was in the twilight zone after I watched the last video and it ended suddenly, scrolled down to see if anyone had commented and saw there were NO comments, and then I refreshed and the video had gone xD
I wasnt really paying attention and then suddently it was gone and i couldnt find it in my feed, i thought i was going insane
You tube does weird shit to me sometimes. Every video will have the same amount of likes sometimes more likes than views.
My mate Chuck has a girlfriend friend called Collette but you can't put round things ....never mind.
Useful bit of kit, it explains why Colletts are pretty much the only chucking system watch makers use
thanks for sharing
You do great work! For inside measuring you can of course use good old inside calipers.
Very interesting project and looks very useful.
Fantastic content as always
Great job and well done. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Our lathe at work sounded a lot like yours until I adjusted the lash between the gears. Worth a look, maybe.
Could you elaborate a bit on that?
Mmmmm looks like a nice project for my
Myford
Beautiful project 🤩😍🤩
Removing that huge chunk would be a good use case for trepanning.
You’d need a lathe far more rigid than mine to trepan a piece of 1045 this big
My next project thank you kind Sir appreciate your time.
You can really speed up your four-jaw setups with two accessories. 1) A dedicated dial indicator that mounts in your tool post exactly at spindle center height that you can mount quickly, and 2) a second chuck wrench so that you can move opposing jaw pairs together. There are several videos illustrating the method, perhaps you've seen some. It almost makes the four-jaw fun to use.
A very good job mate! I'm surprised a one horse motor can make 4 mm depth of cuts. Well impressed! Do you have a diamond blade in a grinder? You can touch up the side rake on those aluminium inserts to sharpen them again and get at least three times the use from them ( probably only twice using on steel though lol)
Sometimes you have to come up with alternative methods to allow for your equipment. Well done, sir.
What I find with ER collets is that when trying to clap down on a part at the smallest end of the range fir either a metric or inch collet, is that you have to really close the holder down, practically bottoming out the nut. I’m not comfortable with that. They do have half mm size collets which I’ve bought, and it’s much better. Also 1/32” collets. Since I have both ranges, I’ve found that with in between size parts, drill bits, etc., sometimes a metric collet has a better fit for inch size parts and visa versa. Another thing about ER and DA type collets is that as they have no locating pin, if you don’t have the best quality collets or chuck, you can turn the collet in the chuck to get the best concentricity, and mark both the collets and chuck to line them up with the least runout. Just remember to put the collet chuck on the spindle the same way each time. I’ve been able to achieve zero runout with my Bison Chuck and Techniks collets this way. It’s harder to achieve this with a screw on chuck mounting, because those aren’t capable of repeating their centering.
Having same lathe and a bought collet chuck. Runout 30 microns. So you did the right decision to make your own.
But it might depend on collet quality. Lots of cheap collets not worth buying.
15:50 it's incredible to see a small lathe pull this cut
A bit late since you have already renoved it from the spindle but you should mark the chuck so when you reinstall it, it goes back in the same orientation as it was machined in. Should give you a little better repeatability (might not matter if your spindle interface is good though).
you make very good things 😁👍👌
There is also a DCGT and CCGT inserts that made for carbon and stainless steel. Those work good for finishing passes.
thought something went wrong. I thought my system was hosed or something. Thanks for reuploading and clarifying.
Nicely done
Nice one dude 😊
Thank you for a little real-time footage, also the algorithm is and asshole I have to search for your videos. Maybe cause ads are off and no I am not saying turn the ads on, I feel that's not fair to us all!. But anyway I love your Videos!
Nicely done. I suggest you investigate CCGT inserts for finishing rather than the diamond type - there might be a little more rigidity and tool life although they are not quite as versatile. I have found that I rarely use the CCMT for anything but roughing.
amazed you got even close to matching tapers using a single mm of travel. Much better to use say 50mm and multiply the calculated infeed by 50. This also multiplies the error. It's called similar triangles.
Excellent job! Kinda wonder why we didn't see some parting/trepanning to save the unneeded steel from the chip pan- 🤷🏼😉😁
Thanks!
Lathe isn’t rigid enough to trepan 1045
Will that taper be that accurate, setting it off such a small distance? The larger the distance you set it off, the more accurate you should be able to get it.
My thoughts as well.
Now, the result seems to be really good. Impressive! 👍
As a rule of thumb though, if possible, indicating over a greater distance is favorable.
I see that he uses a billet. Whenever I do this sort of thing I rough out a flange then bore heat and drop a boss having made sure I have weld prepped the parts. Once this welded together it saves a lot of machining. I have used this method many times for boat prop shaft couplings. I have put 750 Hp through them with no problems.
I sort of felt I was left hanging with the previous upload :)
Looks like it came out great. I was a bit skeptical of the entire chuck being held on by only the three m8’s. But I guess if it could handle those 4mm cuts it should be fine. Worst case set it back up in the vice, pop some clearance holes through the threads, and through bolt it.
Hey, I loved the video, but how come you aren't using your quick change toolpost that much?
That's great runout. Is it repeatable if you remove chuck and re-install it?
That gear head lathe is designed to remove steel. But I would let the motor rest half way through removing all that material.
Fell asleep watching video , up early.
Good content very handy small turning. Impressive lathe. Any backlash?
Can you tell me where you get your metal from here in Aus. I am in Townsville and have a rough time finding material for my projects. As for tool steel forget it. I can certain sizes and only get mild steel up here unless it is in full 6 meter lengths. Any help would be appreciated
i recommand cutting with an aluminium insert at a cutting speed of 40% of the coated insert at least, can even be slower
VC being max 80m/min compared to 185m/min for a C45 with TiCN steel insert
basicly cut it at the same speed as if you were slot milling with an uncoated carbide mill
Amazing work! Didn't learn much new but enjoyed it a lot. Is there a specific reason that you did not use trepanning in removing so much material and save some of the metal? Probably time is my guess
Hi. I have a Warco WM250 lathe which I believe is a similar size to yours, although NOT a geared head.
Anyway, my chucks mount in the same way that yours do, and I've thought a couple of times about making an alternative chuck mounting system along the lines of a D1-4 , D1-6 etc.
Unfortunately (for me), I'm not geared up at to do it at the moment due to a complete rearrangement of my workshop space, as well as a number of other projects on the go, but I did make a wooden mock up of a single 'peg' and lock of the D1-4 system just so that I could understand it better, and as a result I think it's definitely a possible and credible thing to make.
Last time I searched for such a DIY thing, I didn't find anything, so you might even be the first to do it. I'm certain there would be considerable interest in it.
I'm sure you're au fait enough with it to work it out, but give me a shout if you want to know about what I had in mind.
Regards Mark in the UK
Funny you should mention that because I have thought of the exact same thing. Some type of 125mm to D1 or L0 adapter. Ive spent a good amount of time thinking about it but I haven’t landed on a design and material that I’d be happy doing. Yet. For me I’d want to harden the adapter plate and grind it in to make it durable and I don’t think I have a set up to accommodate that the moment.
@@artisanmakes Thanks for taking the time to reply, and maybe there's hope for the future then?
I would probably have machined the inside taper before spending time cutting away all that excess outside material, since the inside taper is a much more difficult operation to get right. (I don't think you need a compression ring, to test mounting a ground bar in a collet, and check fit and measure run out.)
At least on my current little cheapskate lathe, the three jaw chuck's mounting recess is somewhat oversize. I figure this is probably actually intentional, to allow dialing in and minimize runout, those times runout really matters? Kind of a makeshift replacement for a four jaw chuck, but limited to large diameter round pieces.
I haven't used this "feature" though. Just doing operations in the right order and way, has so far made the three jaw chuck limitations manegeable.
Luckily, my toolholding morse taper collet chuck - just like the one you showed - has covered my needs so far. (I do very small parts for 45mm gauge model steam locomotives.)
I don't want to spend time dialling in a 4 jaw. So I'll instead make a whole new chuck!
Gotta love the logic.
You dial in the 4-jaw every time, into the future. You make the collet chuck once.
Drop some decent dough or spend some time doing something you like to make a simple tool assist, vs spending 3-4 min every.time.you.chuck.in.the.4.jaw.chuck.for.the.next.5.-.10.years....
Logic is like good Content, some people have it, and, (quick check of your profile) some don't.
Except it's not like he's never going to use the 4 jaw again.
I was wondering what happened. It just quit playing, I hit replay, and it was marked as private, and it was no longer listed on your channel 😂
Nice job on the Chuck, I was surprised at how deep you could cut. Can I ask where you order your steel from? I am in the sticks and finding material is really difficult
are you planning on replacing the motor of the lathe with a 3 phase one and inverter just like the mill??
So on TH-cam the lathe chip size seems to be measured on a scale from 0 to Abom?
you made that look way to easy ;)
I was just about to comment on the nice Abom reference, when the video disappeared. 😅
Would It not be more accurate to use a dial gauge to locate the part on the mill? I guess the holes dont have to be super accurate though as they are just holding the chuck to the plate, as the recess is the thing doing the locating.
Probably, it it’s a real pain to do it for something that doesn’t need to be micron level accurate
Awesome thanks.
Wouldn't the taper be much more accurate with a sine bar? I'm not sure how accurate / linear dial indicators usually are. Sweeping across the sine bar with the indicator remaining at zero removes all that uncertainty.
If you’re ever struggling to measure a shallow or large diameter, just chuck it on the mill and use an edge finder.
Déjà vu, but welcome to watch again!
I like to ask your 4 jaw chuck is bolt to the lathe with 3 bolt or four? I have lathe and i need independent 4 jaw my late chuck i bolt with 3 bolt let me know what model of you 4 jaw chuck is and where you ordered from thanks
Hi. Do you feed that by hand?
I'm thinking of getting the Optimum TU-2506V from Machinery House, what are your tthoughts on this lathe?
Very nice.
By the way, I can't remember: do you have a four-jaw chuck for this lathe yet?
Thankyou. I do have a 4 jaw chuck, I just don’t use it very often
iirc there are chucks that have a cone instead of cylinder for locating. they are pulled in by 4 pins that have a small round shape on one side. So you dont need to make it 95.000+0.001mm :)
Oh man. He pulled a chuck.
i wonder if your spindel bearrings are loose, because all that chatter you got al the time ?
cheers
ben.
I think that with the sanding the flange down method you made the mating surface into a cone. Because of that, it had the self holding fit that made you think "yep, that's good". In reality, this is not perfect. Probably good enough though.
I doubt it’s perfect but it’s better than any register I’ve ever made. It’s repeatable so I think it’ll be okay
To be honest I didn't expect this result, my jaw dropped
I wont to know why u had not used dividing head assembly or rotary turn table for drilling holes. Since they r more accurate compared to milling axis positioning fwd reverse backlash error generated by screw.
This MF'er deserves some proper machines
19:15 I know you've already talked about this. But the noises from your lathe are driving me crazy. Is that really normal? By the way, great video!👍
What happened to your right first finger? 😮
So, important question here.....
How many takes were there before you nailed that intro? 😉
Let’s just say I’m glad I don’t have a film crew relying on me to nail these takes. It took a few try’s
You tease!!! 😂
I won't bore you with the boring backstory; but have you given any thought as to whether the gearing could be changed to enable this metric lathe to do imperial threads? Many thanks, steve
Yes but you would need to remachine the gear banjo that connects the gearboxes together. Then you could add the correct gears to set this up to cut imperial
@@artisanmakesthankyou so much for taking the time to reply! Cheers Steve
why not take the moving jaw of the vice and place it on the back with the part ontop of the moving jaw thats where those holes in the back side are for ;)
Did you clock the difference in runout on that manf. chuck vs his home made one?
Like 40:1 better.
Or just remove the vice jaws and use sheet brass or aluminum instead..
@@bigdogkmc Or just bolt it down with one bolt through the centre hole.
I don’t have a v jaw that could be used with the outside of the vise jaws flipped. And I forgot or face down the other side first so it wasn’t sitting flat. I needed a v jaw vise so it would sit vertically
@@artisanmakes wouldnt it be possible to use the same vjaw as you did on the vise you used just leave it loose against the static jaw in the normal vice .
Like normal | |_ jaw oudside | _| jaw with vblok |< _| .
For larger diameter Bar what is your preferred local supplier in Victoria? I am a 4 hour drive from Melbourne so locally it is a pain for sourcing. Also chasing a supplier for 4140 if anyone knows?
is there a vostaelpine near you mate? I've been able to buy steel by the meter off them, otherwise theres aus maker supplies, nordic edge and gameco artisan supplies or sell various grades of high carbon/tool steels in various sizes
@@dragonwing4ever Thanks, I was more after bar rather than flat knife type blanks. Vostaelpine I haven't run across in the past but next time I am in the big smoke I will chase them up (nearly 400km away). 👍
@@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994 the suppliers i mentioned do bar aswell as flat/plate stock even some chunky round/square stock aswell
Love it when guys complain about talking and music during a build/repair video. Never heard of "mute," I guess.
Creating the razor ribbons 😂