Great idea. I didn’t have so much trouble as some have had with the new yellow pads, providing you prime then as per Rupes guidelines, this softens the surface just enough to get the conformity that we all want. But of course, you don’t want the entire pad to be too soft as it won’t then transfer the power from the machine as well. Your idea here would work very well with the blue foam pads too, I’m going to give that a try next time. Many thanks for sharing these tips as always, very much appreciated.
I have never tried the blue pads, I believe these are the ones that have now been discontinued? Yes even the priming didn't work for me and depending on the polish being used it would flick a little. I was pretty frustrated to begin with I won't lie
@@ObsidianDetailing yeh the blue foam pads are tricky to start with and are quite unpopular, very firm but not so bad if primed as per, and held on the paint in the same spot for 20-30 seconds at speed 1 or 2, softens the surface just enough, but then you are still limited to flat panels with the 5” really, not so bad with the 3” and nano, a bit more user friendly then. Then, once primed, literally just a couple of pea sized drops to carry on, less on the smaller pads, just a wee dot on 1” and 2”, if using Rupes compounds they are constant cut so are best short cycled. I’ve seen people complaining about dusting and that had only happened to me when using too much compound. The Rupes DA Coarse and DA Fine are great, Blue Coarse actually works very well with the yellow wool on harder paints, the finish is really surprising with that combo.
Brilliant video, very educational, I love your filming techniques makes me want to do better, you are a fantastic old-school detailer and I would say one of the best in the country.
I can't say how true it is but I was told by one of the reps from my several european foam manufacturer factories I buy from in bulk, that wringing out the foam can crush the cells and negatively effects the foams performance I believe. So I don't do it. them absorb more product/water. The Zvizzer Thermo All Rounder blue foams that are really dense I soak in warm water to soften before I test them (all I do now after 30 years of detailing - no longer doing cars but selling pads) it makes those blue foams more compliant. With wool it's the barbs/burrs in traditional twisted wool that causes the marks they can put in. Thus I prefer deburred laser treated modern natural wool. Great video sir.
@@ObsidianDetailing I've had a phone call with the owner of zvizzer and regular emails. The Thermo All Rounder's and detailing line trapez pads are really good. Of the all rounders, the red, orange and yellow would be my main go to's and of the thermo detailing line the white, blue and red
I appreciate that. I am really really pushing honesty where possible, too many associate any form of a hologram to low skill as they have never actually tried a rotary for any work at all. I want more people to be open to trying new things
Never had problems with the pads, maybe it has to do with the machine it is on, technique, how much product is used on it very first use, etc. etc If I encounter them I know what I can do. nice no BS vid!
Good review! 👍. But in a video rupes had announced that the blue and white had a different foam, but that the yellow had kept exactly the same foam as the old one?!. They would have just changed the shade to a darker yellow to differentiate them more easily, but apart from the color and the shape nothing changed because the old yellow foam was already perfect.
I agree, that's why I found it so strange it performed so dramatically differently initially. My assumption is, if indeed the foam is the same, the shape and size changed its behaviour just enough to reduce performance. I honestly found after a few uses, they felt the same. For me these seem to last longer also, which I put down to the same factors, but those are only assumptions as its impossible to really prove
Thanks Matt, thought clones had found their way to market, as above but dusting after primming & 4 or 5 sets was still horrendous, went back to LC pads. (rupes yellow pads been in rags to riches soak since, will retrieve & give hot water treatment)
Thanks for the no nonsense content. What’s your go-to pad and polish for soft paint ? I see you favour Sonax Perfect Finish ? I’m trying to finish down on my mk5 GTI but due to a respray the paint is so soft that it’s difficult to get a nice finish. Rupes Yellow with Gyeon primer gives good correction but still some hazing so maybe a softer pad is needed.
Thanks for the kind words. Gyeon primer is my go to for very soft paints too so I am surprised you are having such a hard time. What machine are you using, throw size etc? And is it single stage paint or colour clear?
@@ObsidianDetailing In2Detailing forced rotation machine 8mm throw. Tornado red paint with clear coat so not single stage. The finish isn’t terrible but there’s definite hazing under bright light. I have some Rupes white pads I could try and also a normal free spinning DA in case the forced rotation machine is too aggressive for finishing.
I really like the lake country ccs pads on a forced rotation machine. They were originally designed for the 3401. The black pad is firm enough, but still soft. Great for primers. If you go to a regular random orbital the smaller the throw the better 👌
I did something very similar. And after revisiting it years later I've used up 3 litres in the last 12 months. It's honestly amazing, I'm annoyed I waited so long to try it again!
Great idea. I didn’t have so much trouble as some have had with the new yellow pads, providing you prime then as per Rupes guidelines, this softens the surface just enough to get the conformity that we all want. But of course, you don’t want the entire pad to be too soft as it won’t then transfer the power from the machine as well.
Your idea here would work very well with the blue foam pads too, I’m going to give that a try next time.
Many thanks for sharing these tips as always, very much appreciated.
I have never tried the blue pads, I believe these are the ones that have now been discontinued?
Yes even the priming didn't work for me and depending on the polish being used it would flick a little. I was pretty frustrated to begin with I won't lie
@@ObsidianDetailing yeh the blue foam pads are tricky to start with and are quite unpopular, very firm but not so bad if primed as per, and held on the paint in the same spot for 20-30 seconds at speed 1 or 2, softens the surface just enough, but then you are still limited to flat panels with the 5” really, not so bad with the 3” and nano, a bit more user friendly then.
Then, once primed, literally just a couple of pea sized drops to carry on, less on the smaller pads, just a wee dot on 1” and 2”, if using Rupes compounds they are constant cut so are best short cycled. I’ve seen people complaining about dusting and that had only happened to me when using too much compound.
The Rupes DA Coarse and DA Fine are great, Blue Coarse actually works very well with the yellow wool on harder paints, the finish is really surprising with that combo.
I think I will try the wools next. Im a big wool pad fan and although I usually prefer a natural wool I DO want to try these
Brilliant video, very educational, I love your filming techniques makes me want to do better, you are a fantastic old-school detailer and I would say one of the best in the country.
Right back at you dude
Helpful tips. I am new to polishing and happened to buy 5 of these yellow rupes pads and haven't used them yet.
They are a great pad, very effective
I can't say how true it is but I was told by one of the reps from my several european foam manufacturer factories I buy from in bulk, that wringing out the foam can crush the cells and negatively effects the foams performance I believe. So I don't do it. them absorb more product/water. The Zvizzer Thermo All Rounder blue foams that are really dense I soak in warm water to soften before I test them (all I do now after 30 years of detailing - no longer doing cars but selling pads) it makes those blue foams more compliant. With wool it's the barbs/burrs in traditional twisted wool that causes the marks they can put in. Thus I prefer deburred laser treated modern natural wool. Great video sir.
I haven't tried the thermo pads yet, do you rate them?
@@ObsidianDetailing I've had a phone call with the owner of zvizzer and regular emails. The Thermo All Rounder's and detailing line trapez pads are really good. Of the all rounders, the red, orange and yellow would be my main go to's and of the thermo detailing line the white, blue and red
I like those words you said about professional doesnt leave it
I appreciate that. I am really really pushing honesty where possible, too many associate any form of a hologram to low skill as they have never actually tried a rotary for any work at all. I want more people to be open to trying new things
A great combination pad and perfect finish 👍
Never had problems with the pads, maybe it has to do with the machine it is on, technique, how much product is used on it very first use, etc. etc If I encounter them I know what I can do. nice no BS vid!
Gonna try this with my Koch chemie one cut pad. Felt they were a bit stiff, this may help. Thanks 👍🏻
Good review! 👍. But in a video rupes had announced that the blue and white had a different foam, but that the yellow had kept exactly the same foam as the old one?!. They would have just changed the shade to a darker yellow to differentiate them more easily, but apart from the color and the shape nothing changed because the old yellow foam was already perfect.
I agree, that's why I found it so strange it performed so dramatically differently initially. My assumption is, if indeed the foam is the same, the shape and size changed its behaviour just enough to reduce performance. I honestly found after a few uses, they felt the same.
For me these seem to last longer also, which I put down to the same factors, but those are only assumptions as its impossible to really prove
Thanks Matt, thought clones had found their way to market, as above but dusting after primming & 4 or 5 sets was still horrendous, went back to LC pads. (rupes yellow pads been in rags to riches soak since, will retrieve & give hot water treatment)
Hope you are well buddy, been so long!
Thanks for the no nonsense content. What’s your go-to pad and polish for soft paint ? I see you favour Sonax Perfect Finish ?
I’m trying to finish down on my mk5 GTI but due to a respray the paint is so soft that it’s difficult to get a nice finish. Rupes Yellow with Gyeon primer gives good correction but still some hazing so maybe a softer pad is needed.
Thanks for the kind words.
Gyeon primer is my go to for very soft paints too so I am surprised you are having such a hard time. What machine are you using, throw size etc? And is it single stage paint or colour clear?
@@ObsidianDetailing In2Detailing forced rotation machine 8mm throw. Tornado red paint with clear coat so not single stage. The finish isn’t terrible but there’s definite hazing under bright light. I have some Rupes white pads I could try and also a normal free spinning DA in case the forced rotation machine is too aggressive for finishing.
I really like the lake country ccs pads on a forced rotation machine. They were originally designed for the 3401. The black pad is firm enough, but still soft. Great for primers. If you go to a regular random orbital the smaller the throw the better 👌
@@ObsidianDetailing oh great , I have a black ccs pad. I will give it a go this weekend. Thanks for the help.
I've found the best solution is to use Scholl pads... Rupes foam pads hugely overrated.. much prefer their wool pads for one-steps.
🤣
Maybe v3 will be better just like their polishers. I have been so disappointed in their company
Now I want to pick perfect finish again lol It was the first bottle of polish that i totally used up.
I did something very similar. And after revisiting it years later I've used up 3 litres in the last 12 months. It's honestly amazing, I'm annoyed I waited so long to try it again!
3L that's crazy!
The foam rupes pads do can skip. More than lake country SDO pads.
what polish machine do u use?
I use a few different ones, I much prefer rotary machines to cut, and refine out with 15mm or even 12mm when the paint is a bit sensitive
Great and very informative
Muchas gracias
You didn’t prime the pad per Rupes instructions
Problem solved
Suscrito..!
Thank you so much