This is such an important video not only for beginners but also serves as a reminder to all of us how important a test spot is when paint correcting. Experience alone can’t tell you if the paint is hard or soft, as pointed out in the video. Experience can help in knowing the right pad/liquid combination to choose for the next test spot if your first test spot isn’t up to your expectations. To this day, I will always do test spots to confirm the correct pad/liquid for the specific paint I’m working on. Detailing, in general, is such a game of managing both customer expectations but also your own personal expectations and a test spot is a way to take the guess work out of that.
Larry, we agree with the entirety of your paragraph. Regardless of the tools and products used, a test spot is one of the most important, and unfortunately, the most overlooked processes one can do. Thank you for your reply!
Love all the content guys, I’ve got all the machines even the cyclo and the older model 5 pro with the adjustable speed, can you do more videos on the rotary system too? Idk why but I just enjoy using all the systems, change things up instead of just big throw da etc all the time. I even use the cyclo for buffing cars from time to time. Also, very interested in that new filtration system if you guys bring it to the states. Any other units that are in the states you could recommend?
The Cycle is great and capable tool! We will have much more content in the near future and we will definitely cover more than just Random Orbital Polishers. RUPES makes a wide variety of tools, vacuums, and accessories which deserve our attention. Speaking of one, the air filtration system, we haven't announced any plans to carry it in the North American market as of yet, but stay tuned. We are not away of any competitive products that offer anything near the performance and technology our system does.
Really enjoyed that. I have a question that I wonder if you can answer; when doing the test spot it seemed like you didn't do many passes in the set. I typically see about 4-6 passes and you did what seemed to be 2. Is this this the approach you normally take? I can see it being much quicker if you take this approach, I just thought the polishes needed working more? Are the DA polishes not diminishing ones?
Thanks for watching and commenting. To clarify something, there is a significant amount of mis-information out there about abrasive technology and its relation to working time. The reality is that abrasive type has almost nothing to do with cycle time. It is outdated thinking that has, unfortunately, been perpetuated over the years. Our advice - don't focus on the abrasive set and instead focus on the cycle time (how long you work the product) as that is more important and tied to the other components of the formula, not the abrasive. That being said, we would recommend you watch the section of the BigFoot 101 series on application - we recommend a 30-45 second application (cycle) time, which in our observation is much shorter than what most technicians actually do. We observe users going well over a minute in their application into the 2+ minute range per application. Not only is this really inefficient because it wastes time (effectively doubling your time on a full car) it doesn't improve results. As a matter of fact in some cases it may actually take the finish backwards and cause a haze. In this particular video Jason is right about spot on 30 seconds in his applications. For great video specific to Cycle time click here: th-cam.com/video/Lmv0Y8fPhJ0/w-d-xo.html For the chapter on Application in BigFoot 101 click here: th-cam.com/video/NyUg5oq94bo/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES this is fantastic information and insight, thank you for sharing it. Whilst I know you've developed the approach to your system, it sounds like it's applicable to pretty much anything, that'll be a fun one for me to test out and produce a video of. If you fancy sending me the DA Fine Kit for comparison purposes you are most welcome 😘
Thank you for these informational videos. I've recently watched some others that have mentioned some paints react negatively to an IPA wipe down. Mainly that they "swell". Not sure if it's worth making a whole video on but what is your opinion on swelling paint from an IPA wipe? Is an improper mixture of IPA and water to blame for this, and what is your preferred mixture or product to use when preparing a panel for a protectant after a paint correction?
Excellent question! Chemical swell is definitely possible and is most commonly seen with a softer paint and use of a chemical that is too aggressive for that surface. The swelling will actually cause the defects to visually disappear, only to return once the paint returns back to its normal state. In terms of what the paint does, its the same as heat swell, a topic covered in this video: th-cam.com/video/NX5n2q09jlA/w-d-xo.html If you are going to use isopropyl alcohol or any prep solvent as part of your process make sure that it is diluted properly for your application. With dedicated panel wipe products follow the manufacturers recommendation for dilution. With IPA the dilution for removing polishing oils a mix at 10-12% is more than sufficient and will minimize the chances of swell.
Broncoupe! If you haven't had the chance to watch our Replies Series : RUPES Replies please make sure to check them out. We love questions like this because they make for short, information-packed videos and we prefer to get our questions from viewer questions. It is perfectly okay to mix and match the pad colors and compound colors. RUPES is unique that the pads and compounds were developed alongside each other. Typically, companies manufacture either the compound or the pad, so they develop one and find the best match to pair together by outsourcing. So our color combinations : yellow foam with yellow polish (D-A Fine Foam with D-A Fine Polish) is engineered for peek performance and you can be very confident that it delivers. Still, times will arise were you need something in the middle. Maybe the smoothness of the D-A Medium wool pad with increased polishing action of the D-A Coarse compound. It may not be the perfectly engineered solution we created, but it may be the perfect solution for the paint or surface you are working on. Short Answer: Yes.
Depends entirely on the car. As you can see in the next chapter of this series (application) the D-A Coarse Compound + D-A Coarse Wool combo produced an excellent finish. No need for other steps. On other cars, or depending on your goals, you may need to use a follow-up step, like D-A Fine, UNO Pure, or UNO Protect. It will be different in each situation, but the goal should always be to complete the job, delivering the desired results, in as few steps as possible. WATCH THE APPLICATION CHAPTER: th-cam.com/video/NyUg5oq94bo/w-d-xo.html
I understand wool cuts better than foam to a degree and foam finishes better. I have read on other blogs that some are seeing that the foam is more durable than the wool, and so I was wondering, was that in the past before the newest reiteration of the blue and yellow wool pads?
Thanks for commenting. Not sure where you are coming to those conclusions - Wool has more cutting power than foam, and if the combination and technique are dialed in correctly has a high potential for finishing. Not as high as foam, but the trade off is cut rate. In terms of durability, not sure where you would be getting that either, but if there is anything we can help you with or explain in more detail please reach out. www.rupes.com/contact-us
Say if I have Rupes Nano, is it common practice to isolate bigger defects in one confined area with blue stuff and then refine with yellow? Or is it better to give a whole panel a course treatment with blue and then refine?
Thanks for watching and commenting. That approach would certainly be one way to attack that type of situation. It would allow you to preserve clearcoat thickness over the majority of the panel by only addressing the spots that need more aggressive approaches. Really no different than spot sanding to remove deep, isolated scratches prior to doing compounding.
My residue is never this easy to take off. I’ve tried adding more product to the foam pad, even decreasing the amount of working time I’m talking like 10seconds max on a spot on speed 4 and I still getting holograms and the product I have to rub not just wipe away to take off. Any help or ideas is a blessing
That is unusual, especially if you've made the adjustment to compound amount and cycle time. The reality of ambient conditions is the only other thing that could be a consideration. Depending on temperature and humidity there can be some issues with wipe off, but we'd need more specific information to really help. Reach out via the contact us page on RUPES.com and we'll get you in touch with the tech team to troubleshoot your issue.
He didn’t really go into why he thought the pad was too much on the Ford. What did he see that caused that concern ?I have a new vehicle that I want to get ready for ceramic coating and am curious what to look for to determine if the combo is too aggressive. Thinking on a new car with no real defects you start with white and pure?
Thanks for posting your question. In the video, at the 9:00 mark Jason specifically says that it is a good result in terms of defect removal, but left a residual pad mark (typically manifests on black as a haze) and thus adjusted to a less aggressive combo since the paint didn't finish as he would have expected. The other way he could have gone would be to do a 2nd step with something like our UNO Pure and a white foam pad to refine that finish, but ultimately the goal is always to get get it done in one step if we can. For your situation, only a test spot will tell you for sure. New cars have plenty of defects as they are typically washed by the dealership and handled a fair amount before you take possession. Then there is the reality of how hard or soft that particular paint is, which is why the test spot becomes so important. You can't know what will work on any particular car until you perform a test and read how the paint responds.
@@RUPES I use always in order to understand if the car was re-painted or not, so you can "work" more in safety or not, and also if the paint is more fresh/soft....
Thanks for commenting. Following our definitions from the earlier chapter a "pass" would be a single linear movement in one direction, so we definitely need more than 2 passes. (see this video as reference) th-cam.com/video/uxAfYKK6DcE/w-d-xo.html I'm assuming what you mean is "section pass" (a series of overlapping passes covering an application area) that would depend on the severity of the particular defect and the hardness of the paint being corrected. We do recommend at least starting with a 30-45 second application that includes a series of 3 overlapping passes in each direction. Once you see the results achieved there you can make adjustments to the process including arm speed, tool speed, number of passes, compound amount, etc.
Is there a reason you're only doing 2 section passes? Couldn't you get more cut by sticking with the yellow wool pad but doing 4 section passes or is a quick 2 passes per section all you recommend?
That is a potential adjustment that can be made, but we find more often than not technicians over work a product with the assumption that cut rate and finish quality are unaffected. What many technicians don't realize is that their longer application (additional section passes) in SOME situations is not adding any benefit. In some cases it actually takes the finish backwards; meaning at somewhere around 2-3 section passes they hit the sweet spot. Defects are gone, finish is clear. However, the additional 3-4 section passes take the finish back a step by creating a haze or pad mark. Since we were targeting (as we always do) a single step to correct and polish we opted to increase the aggressiveness of the combo and keep the cycle short to keep the odds of haze or a pad mark low. So, could a longer application produce a similar result? Maybe. However the level of defect remaining, based on our experience wouldn’t have been full removed and we’d likely be looking at a cleanup step to address haze. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hopefully that answer is helpful.
@@RUPES Yes, that's very helpful. I want you to know that I really appreciate what you do to help people out. I'm just a DIYer, but I've decided that I'm going to get a Rupes DA (probably a Duetto). Rupes seems like a good company with quality products. Thanks again.
Not just any Supray... a very well built, over 1100whp, Supra ;) dsportmag.com/the-cars/1168whp-supra-big-boost-high-powered-street-car/?fbclid=IwAR2IJEeQGF0KOCLhePSBWNLpG74zn-uF2J57S4m9MY7NZOLmmgf4Yawkz3c
![BigFoot 101: The Application Process [Chapter 05]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NyUg5oq94bo/mqdefault.jpg)
![BigFoot 101: The Application Process [Chapter 05]](/img/tr.png)
![BigFoot 101: Definitions and Defects [Chapter 01]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uxAfYKK6DcE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Polishing Difficult to Finish Paint - [RUPES Replies Season 02 Episode 02]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WsdRlEliM7g/mqdefault.jpg)
This is such an important video not only for beginners but also serves as a reminder to all of us how important a test spot is when paint correcting.
Experience alone can’t tell you if the paint is hard or soft, as pointed out in the video. Experience can help in knowing the right pad/liquid combination to choose for the next test spot if your first test spot isn’t up to your expectations. To this day, I will always do test spots to confirm the correct pad/liquid for the specific paint I’m working on. Detailing, in general, is such a game of managing both customer expectations but also your own personal expectations and a test spot is a way to take the guess work out of that.
Larry, we agree with the entirety of your paragraph. Regardless of the tools and products used, a test spot is one of the most important, and unfortunately, the most overlooked processes one can do. Thank you for your reply!
LHR 75 revving gives me chills
Love all the content guys, I’ve got all the machines even the cyclo and the older model 5 pro with the adjustable speed, can you do more videos on the rotary system too? Idk why but I just enjoy using all the systems, change things up instead of just big throw da etc all the time. I even use the cyclo for buffing cars from time to time. Also, very interested in that new filtration system if you guys bring it to the states. Any other units that are in the states you could recommend?
The Cycle is great and capable tool! We will have much more content in the near future and we will definitely cover more than just Random Orbital Polishers. RUPES makes a wide variety of tools, vacuums, and accessories which deserve our attention. Speaking of one, the air filtration system, we haven't announced any plans to carry it in the North American market as of yet, but stay tuned. We are not away of any competitive products that offer anything near the performance and technology our system does.
Really enjoyed that. I have a question that I wonder if you can answer; when doing the test spot it seemed like you didn't do many passes in the set. I typically see about 4-6 passes and you did what seemed to be 2. Is this this the approach you normally take? I can see it being much quicker if you take this approach, I just thought the polishes needed working more? Are the DA polishes not diminishing ones?
Thanks for watching and commenting. To clarify something, there is a significant amount of mis-information out there about abrasive technology and its relation to working time. The reality is that abrasive type has almost nothing to do with cycle time. It is outdated thinking that has, unfortunately, been perpetuated over the years. Our advice - don't focus on the abrasive set and instead focus on the cycle time (how long you work the product) as that is more important and tied to the other components of the formula, not the abrasive.
That being said, we would recommend you watch the section of the BigFoot 101 series on application - we recommend a 30-45 second application (cycle) time, which in our observation is much shorter than what most technicians actually do. We observe users going well over a minute in their application into the 2+ minute range per application. Not only is this really inefficient because it wastes time (effectively doubling your time on a full car) it doesn't improve results. As a matter of fact in some cases it may actually take the finish backwards and cause a haze. In this particular video Jason is right about spot on 30 seconds in his applications.
For great video specific to Cycle time click here: th-cam.com/video/Lmv0Y8fPhJ0/w-d-xo.html
For the chapter on Application in BigFoot 101 click here: th-cam.com/video/NyUg5oq94bo/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES this is fantastic information and insight, thank you for sharing it. Whilst I know you've developed the approach to your system, it sounds like it's applicable to pretty much anything, that'll be a fun one for me to test out and produce a video of. If you fancy sending me the DA Fine Kit for comparison purposes you are most welcome 😘
Thank you for these informational videos. I've recently watched some others that have mentioned some paints react negatively to an IPA wipe down. Mainly that they "swell". Not sure if it's worth making a whole video on but what is your opinion on swelling paint from an IPA wipe? Is an improper mixture of IPA and water to blame for this, and what is your preferred mixture or product to use when preparing a panel for a protectant after a paint correction?
Excellent question! Chemical swell is definitely possible and is most commonly seen with a softer paint and use of a chemical that is too aggressive for that surface. The swelling will actually cause the defects to visually disappear, only to return once the paint returns back to its normal state. In terms of what the paint does, its the same as heat swell, a topic covered in this video: th-cam.com/video/NX5n2q09jlA/w-d-xo.html
If you are going to use isopropyl alcohol or any prep solvent as part of your process make sure that it is diluted properly for your application. With dedicated panel wipe products follow the manufacturers recommendation for dilution. With IPA the dilution for removing polishing oils a mix at 10-12% is more than sufficient and will minimize the chances of swell.
@@RUPES Amazing, thank you!
Would there be a situation where you would you use a yellow fibre or foam pad with the blue compound or do you stick with colour to colour
Broncoupe! If you haven't had the chance to watch our Replies Series : RUPES Replies please make sure to check them out. We love questions like this because they make for short, information-packed videos and we prefer to get our questions from viewer questions.
It is perfectly okay to mix and match the pad colors and compound colors. RUPES is unique that the pads and compounds were developed alongside each other. Typically, companies manufacture either the compound or the pad, so they develop one and find the best match to pair together by outsourcing.
So our color combinations : yellow foam with yellow polish (D-A Fine Foam with D-A Fine Polish) is engineered for peek performance and you can be very confident that it delivers.
Still, times will arise were you need something in the middle. Maybe the smoothness of the D-A Medium wool pad with increased polishing action of the D-A Coarse compound. It may not be the perfectly engineered solution we created, but it may be the perfect solution for the paint or surface you are working on.
Short Answer: Yes.
@@RUPES I often use this combination of different colors and works very well ! as you said: all depends on the type of paint and situation.
So after the blue blue on the hard would you go for an uno for a finish or yellow yellow (pad) for a finish ? Thanks
Depends entirely on the car. As you can see in the next chapter of this series (application) the D-A Coarse Compound + D-A Coarse Wool combo produced an excellent finish. No need for other steps. On other cars, or depending on your goals, you may need to use a follow-up step, like D-A Fine, UNO Pure, or UNO Protect. It will be different in each situation, but the goal should always be to complete the job, delivering the desired results, in as few steps as possible. WATCH THE APPLICATION CHAPTER: th-cam.com/video/NyUg5oq94bo/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES ok great thank you
I understand wool cuts better than foam to a degree and foam finishes better. I have read on other blogs that some are seeing that the foam is more durable than the wool, and so I was wondering, was that in the past before the newest reiteration of the blue and yellow wool pads?
Thanks for commenting. Not sure where you are coming to those conclusions -
Wool has more cutting power than foam, and if the combination and technique are dialed in correctly has a high potential for finishing. Not as high as foam, but the trade off is cut rate. In terms of durability, not sure where you would be getting that either, but if there is anything we can help you with or explain in more detail please reach out.
www.rupes.com/contact-us
Say if I have Rupes Nano, is it common practice to isolate bigger defects in one confined area with blue stuff and then refine with yellow? Or is it better to give a whole panel a course treatment with blue and then refine?
Thanks for watching and commenting. That approach would certainly be one way to attack that type of situation. It would allow you to preserve clearcoat thickness over the majority of the panel by only addressing the spots that need more aggressive approaches. Really no different than spot sanding to remove deep, isolated scratches prior to doing compounding.
My residue is never this easy to take off. I’ve tried adding more product to the foam pad, even decreasing the amount of working time I’m talking like 10seconds max on a spot on speed 4 and I still getting holograms and the product I have to rub not just wipe away to take off. Any help or ideas is a blessing
That is unusual, especially if you've made the adjustment to compound amount and cycle time. The reality of ambient conditions is the only other thing that could be a consideration. Depending on temperature and humidity there can be some issues with wipe off, but we'd need more specific information to really help. Reach out via the contact us page on RUPES.com and we'll get you in touch with the tech team to troubleshoot your issue.
🔥👌
He didn’t really go into why he thought the pad was too much on the Ford. What did he see that caused that concern ?I have a new vehicle that I want to get ready for ceramic coating and am curious what to look for to determine if the combo is too aggressive. Thinking on a new car with no real defects you start with white and pure?
Thanks for posting your question. In the video, at the 9:00 mark Jason specifically says that it is a good result in terms of defect removal, but left a residual pad mark (typically manifests on black as a haze) and thus adjusted to a less aggressive combo since the paint didn't finish as he would have expected. The other way he could have gone would be to do a 2nd step with something like our UNO Pure and a white foam pad to refine that finish, but ultimately the goal is always to get get it done in one step if we can.
For your situation, only a test spot will tell you for sure. New cars have plenty of defects as they are typically washed by the dealership and handled a fair amount before you take possession. Then there is the reality of how hard or soft that particular paint is, which is why the test spot becomes so important. You can't know what will work on any particular car until you perform a test and read how the paint responds.
Hi guys, one small question - should the test spot be done before taking paint gauge readings or after? Will that change pad choice?
If you have access to a paint gauge (most beginners do not) then before. That is where you’d make the decision on “go” or “no go”
@@RUPES Thank you
@@RUPES I use always in order to understand if the car was re-painted or not, so you can "work" more in safety or not, and also if the paint is more fresh/soft....
7:59 Thanos would do this same finger snap if he's obsessed with detailing.
🤣
With rupes compound or polish. Do you only need to do two passes to remove defects
Thanks for commenting. Following our definitions from the earlier chapter a "pass" would be a single linear movement in one direction, so we definitely need more than 2 passes. (see this video as reference) th-cam.com/video/uxAfYKK6DcE/w-d-xo.html
I'm assuming what you mean is "section pass" (a series of overlapping passes covering an application area) that would depend on the severity of the particular defect and the hardness of the paint being corrected. We do recommend at least starting with a 30-45 second application that includes a series of 3 overlapping passes in each direction. Once you see the results achieved there you can make adjustments to the process including arm speed, tool speed, number of passes, compound amount, etc.
Before the test spot, shouldn't the paint be measured for thickness? Else how do you know how much clear is left and how aggressive you can go?
Is there a reason you're only doing 2 section passes? Couldn't you get more cut by sticking with the yellow wool pad but doing 4 section passes or is a quick 2 passes per section all you recommend?
That is a potential adjustment that can be made, but we find more often than not technicians over work a product with the assumption that cut rate and finish quality are unaffected. What many technicians don't realize is that their longer application (additional section passes) in SOME situations is not adding any benefit. In some cases it actually takes the finish backwards; meaning at somewhere around 2-3 section passes they hit the sweet spot. Defects are gone, finish is clear. However, the additional 3-4 section passes take the finish back a step by creating a haze or pad mark. Since we were targeting (as we always do) a single step to correct and polish we opted to increase the aggressiveness of the combo and keep the cycle short to keep the odds of haze or a pad mark low.
So, could a longer application produce a similar result? Maybe. However the level of defect remaining, based on our experience wouldn’t have been full removed and we’d likely be looking at a cleanup step to address haze.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Hopefully that answer is helpful.
@@RUPES Yes, that's very helpful. I want you to know that I really appreciate what you do to help people out. I'm just a DIYer, but I've decided that I'm going to get a Rupes DA (probably a Duetto). Rupes seems like a good company with quality products. Thanks again.
@@davesmith2693 - Duetto is an awesome tool.
Please. Please put the subtitles in spanish. Thank you so much
Sorry about that. The Spanish subtitles have been fixed.
@@RUPES muchas gracias. Feliz navidad 🎄🎁
No big deal..... Supra just chillling in the back.
Not just any Supray... a very well built, over 1100whp, Supra ;)
dsportmag.com/the-cars/1168whp-supra-big-boost-high-powered-street-car/?fbclid=IwAR2IJEeQGF0KOCLhePSBWNLpG74zn-uF2J57S4m9MY7NZOLmmgf4Yawkz3c