Patch Panels: Quarter Panel Rust Repair How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is how I fabricate a quarter panel repair panel from scratch. Using the Thomas Rocket Car as a demonstration I show you the steps needed to pattern, trim, fit, and weld a custom patch panel.
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#rust #repair #metal - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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For those who wish to restore classic cars. There is one thing to know : to be definitively efficient against rust, you should put grease everywhere. grease is the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside the body - hidden erea - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. rust always comes from the inside and welds. Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
Watch Fitzee from New Founland Canada he has a slick trick for butt welding with no flanging guy is amazing
Cut ‘n’ butt! Butt weld vs.lap weld.
Cut n butt !!
Fitzee rocks ! …..
sounds like the gentleman on project farm
Outstanding video. Way better than others I have watched recently. Clear, concise and to the point. Thank you.
Perfect guide put me in right direction doing section on Range Rover
100% bookmarked for reference- Thank you
Great... thank you.. this is just what i needed.. greetings from México city.
Great tip; "tap your tacks" for a tight fit. Thank you for the video and your time, as well as sharing your experience.
Thanks for a great video and showing how to do this. I just bought a pair of flange pliers like yours. So helpful and i hope my work turns out as nice as yours
Very informative and useful, thank you!
Nice work, I learned a lot. Thank you.
Nice job! I enjoy your approach.
Congratulations from Brazil. You do an excellent service !!! (Três Lagoas-Brazil)
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great presentation; thanks!
nice fit , nice job well done young man.
That came out great
Great lesson thank you
Nice work, well done.
Nice job. Cool truck.
Great job and I’m a red seal body man of 30 years
Great job !!!
Beautiful job bro
Real nice job
Great video, great work. Thank you. I work at a baywindow bus from 1977, but that is more like a puzzle 😀 Kind regards from Germany. Ralph
Thanks for watching 👍
Fellow Baywindow guy here. I feel your pain, Ralph! I need to replace a wheel arch and part of the wheel tub.
Pretty freaking cool 😎
Lining wallpaper is great for these templates. It's cheap but also marks easily with a wax crayon or even a finger.
i use lining paper too 😃 !
Great Video Thanks!!!!!!
nice job sir
Just found your TH-cam channel. Love it so far . Great video!!
Thank you!
@@QuickSpeedShop you’re welcome
Nice Job and thanks for the tips.
Thank you
First off this method has been used for years. For those of you putting this method down and saying that butt welding is the only way to go. I would have to disagree. I've seen this method used for years. I've seen both brazing the panels together and mig welded together with minimal fillier used. By the way after over25 years still holding and looking good! If you really want to see a questionable method there is a guy here on TH-cam making videos on patch panels. By just lap welding ( without a flange) and grind down the welds a little and then hammer the welds down (and the sheet metal) and use a lot of filler to cover everything. With this being said I think this guy is doing a fine job. Also watch some old Eastwood videos they have used similar flange methods 🤔
Overlapping the metal is OK - IF the inside overlap is facing upwards. Then you can get a rust stopping wax or oil based sealant between the metal sheets. If it's facing down that joint will always rust. When that's not possible you have to butt weld or use the 45 degree crimp method.
Good Video!
Thanks!
i use them too. it is handy.the flange
I just stared welding a few months ago. I have a 73 and 74 nova and my 73 has really bad quarters. I did a mud job and I don’t like it now I plan of going back to replace it with some panels for a dependable repair
That's the best way. Good luck!
I use an air powered flanger from Eastwood.
Nice job. I just wanna ask the type of sheet metal you use for car body repair? Thanks.
I use mostly 18 ga cold rolled steel.
What do you do of you cant get access to behind the patch panel how do you seal or prime the welded area from the inside?
You can get weld-thru primer and paint the panel before installation. If it's in a closed area you could drill a small hole in a hidden area and spray Fluid Film in to try and coat it with lanolin rust prevention.
What does hammer tapping the slug weld achieve immediately after welding.
Helps to smooth out the distortion from the weld and hammer the gap tight.
They make pneumatic flange tools
could sheet metal be aluminum sheet? something like aluminum deep tray available in dollar store? used for food serving purposes. its thick and easily bend. rust proof.
No. To do a correct repair its as I showed in the video. You cannot weld aluminum to steel. There is also dissimilar metal corrosion that can occur when steel contacts aluminum. You could bond different materials together with panel adhesive, but that is not what this repair video is about.
@@QuickSpeedShop you can weld mild steel to stainless though
What was your settings on your welder? I can not master sheet metal yet.
This car was 16 ga metal so I set it for that. You need to find a chart for your welder that tells you what amperage and wire speed to use for the thickness of metal you want to weld.
Hi what gauge panel steel do you use. Cheers 🇳🇿
I usually use 18 ga for most of my repairs. For structural inner pieces I will use 16 ga.
Are you using the same gauge metal as the car or not?
Yes
You mentioned the shrinker was from Eastwood, are you using an eastwood welder, i was thinking about buying the 135. Because it can use .023 wire. My welding is not that advanced. I bought the flux core mig from harbour fraight. It won't weld thin sheet metal. Thanks for the video enjoyed it.
The welder I had was super old Prest-o-Weld MIG. I have since bought a Miller Multimatic 215. I love the 215, it's a great professional machine. Go with gas, flux core is about worthless. If you want a good welder for hobby work, but want quality at a fair price, consider a Hobart Handler from Tractor Supply Co. I don't know anything about the Eastwood welders.
@@QuickSpeedShop . Thank you, i was looking at the hobart also.
I realize this is an older video, but I wonder, why don't you go back and weld in the areas that you didn't weld initially? That way you can have a total solid metal fit and very little, if any, filler needed. Seems you could fill areas with weld and forego any filler. Just asking, because I really don't know...
I could have done that, but not really necessary. The panel is plenty secure. It's going to need filler regardless and more chance of warpage with full welding and grinding.
Filler is always needed
Plus he said it's going to sit in a museum
Cut straight across you are cresting extra work and extra heat
How do you have your welder set as far as feed rate and voltage? I can't get mine set right. Great job by the way!!
I couldn't tell you. I was using a 30 year old off brand welder. I just turned the knobs until it welded good. I now have a MillerMatic 215 with Autoset that picks the feeds and amps based on material. It's an inverter machine where as one in the video was transformer. I weld with 0.030 wire and 240V.
I hope you’ve gotten a pneumatic flange tool by now. Good video!
Not yet!
I don't understand why on the outside there would come moistere. If the panel is painted it is sealed, right? Please explain how this works/ is?
Primer is porous. If you don't paint the car right away and drive it in primer or store it in a damp location moisture will go through the primer (unless you use epoxy primer which is waterproof). I just like the extra protection of having waterproof filler on all my weld seams.
Do you need to put any form of protection on the back of the repair panel to avoid future corrosion?
I used seam sealer on the seam inside and the primed the back.
Zinc paint works good. My grandpa owned a body shop for 50 years and just found it and has gone thru probably 10 cans of it on the inside of every panel on his 57 fairlane
Can you just JB weld or epoxy this in if your car isn't worth much?
They make automotive panel bonding adhesive that you could use to attach panels if you don't have a welder. I don't think JB weld would work. If you don't care about looks and the part isn't structural you could use rivets or sheet metal screws to attach panels as well.
Today mnay panels on new cars are glued in place or on from factory and in repairs at the body shop.
Profi !!!!
use a crayon and rub over the paper...it highlights the sheet metal under the paper much better than 'hunting' for it with a marker.
6:00 flange tool, Harbor Freight has a really nice pneumatic hand held tool... amazing
Thanks for the tip!
It only works with really thin sheet metal about the same thickness as OEM uses and a little more in my experience. If you make a panel out of say a scrap washing machine it’s going to not work very well. Maybe if you have a 2 Stage compressor but not sure there.
Bought a car a while back had quarter panel issue but long story short it's been half assed repaired, they used pins and the whole nine and looks good up close but trash from 10 feet away, a botched repair nonetheless, looks like an amateur tried to fix it.
could it cost more to repair now? Anyone chime in plz really dig the car.
I'm thinking a welding repair now but that's not cheap.
I've heard anywhere from $1.5k-$2k
Wish I could find someone near me who does this. No body shops in my area will even attempt this. I would, but don't have any of the tools. The welding gun itself probably costs thousands.
Not necessarily.
Get something second hand.
same dude up north they just tell you rust will get it again no point
I can't believe Tom Brady can do bodywork too
No its pete butteigieg 😅
I'm gonna go ahead.............
Come on
Nice job but I would not seam seal since your reaping air that will cause condinsasion faster and rust faster try to use fresh stop or Lucas that is thick sticky oil not used that has carbon that has acid in it to rust faster..
Seam sealer does not cause rust. It keeps moisture out, hence the name seam sealer
Dude, I gotta wonder if half the commenters didn’t even listen to the video. “That’s going to rust” and “it’s going to trap dirt and moisture”. You clearly stated that this car is going to be in a museum. With that, probably in climate control. You could literally leave that patch unpainted and there won’t be any rust in 20 years!
Right. I fixed some cars this way almost 30 years ago that have driven thousands of miles and are fine. If you fix a rot box up and then run it in the salt for another 20 years, yeah it will probably rust again. If you fix a car up and drive it in good weather and take care of it, it will last forever.
@@QuickSpeedShop I live in Michigan and you know what I don’t see? Car shows in the winter or restored classic cars driven in the winter. Even if this car you were working on was going to an individual I highly doubt it would be a daily driver in the northern states. In fact, I would wager it would be parked in a garage and likely only be driven in good weather.
I seriously think people like to argue just for something to do. “I’ve been doing this longer than you”, and yet you don’t realize a restored classic car isn’t going to be driven in inclement weather?
Anyway, good job.
I'm agreeing with you. People that argue usually have either never done their own work or usually just parrot what others have told them. Also they'll use an example like a muscle car that was repaired in the 80s, with rust that was never sandblasted, patches poorly installed, and just mudded up. Of course those are going to pop later.
@@QuickSpeedShopSame would apply to a new car that never had rust. lol
This will work for a museum car like this, but don't do this type of repair for any vehicle driven on the street. I've never seen anyone use filler in place of properly welding the panel fully, that seems like a very cheesy repair. Secondly, seam sealer or not, that flange will trap moisture and rust. Again, you can probably get away with this on a museum installation, but please never do this repair on a vehicle that actually gets used.
Structurally stitch welding this panel in is fine. It's no different than any factory panel spot welded together. As for corrosion, with the entire rear seam sealed from the rear and a waterproof filler like Dura-glass used on the outside there should be no issues. Spraying epoxy primer before bodywork would add an extra level of protection. I have patched cars and trucks for years like this and even winter rides that are bathed in salt. On winter cars the oem metal usually rusts out before the patch seam does. I did my 1946 Studebaker truck patch panels this way and it's been on the road since 1999 with no rust issues or cracks. There are definitely way worse repairs on TH-cam.
You obviously don't know what your talking about. This method is still used today, and is standard.
-You are very wrong about trapping moisture. The overlap actually makes the patch much stronger. Anyways, Any type of weld or patch will rust if not properly protected.
Not to mention the 'museum' vehicles are much better than the ones today, and were in fact driven by people in their time.
Why not put up your video of showing everyone else how its done? Dumimes like you should not be able to make comments.
bull bull and more bull ! I dont get so many people saying all the time thats lap welds and seams that its gonna rust. Ita the way all the vehicle companies build cars. Look at all bodies on any car and ya gonna find lap and semaed joints on the floor and anywhere on the body and to your comment bondo and seam sealer is on cars new from the factory
Sorry mate. A flange joint will rust excessively and the multiple tack weld method will leave a hard joint susceptible to fatigue and cracking. Old school oxy/acet and real panel beating will last far longer. I suppose if you are just fixing it and passing the problem onto the next sucker . It's ok.
I have been fixing panels like this for almost 30 years. I have several of these cars with repairs like this that I still own that have been done for years and years and thousands of miles. No rust issues, no fatigues, no cracks. Is this the only way to do it? No, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work.
Yea that's why he's doing it and your nor
couldn't watch any more i can guess that you're going to be using bondo its the American way just leaving some of the problem to remain for the next owner poor job
This is a standard repair that is more than acceptable. Unless you are a metal finishing wizard or have 6000 hours to put into restoring a car this repair is fine. I have been making patch panels and fixing cars for 25 years. Never had any problems. I have some cars and trucks I fixed this way 20 years ago I still own and the repairs are still as good as they were then. The metal is clean, the overlap is seam sealed on the inside, and Dura-glass will be used first and then finished with polyester filler. If you want to see metal finish videos there are people that can do that, but 99.9% of people making patch panels use "bondo" the finish the repair.
@@QuickSpeedShop Good job !!! and everyone uses body fill ,,cant get away from not using it!!!
This is a quality repair by any standard! People should know what they are talking about before they throw insults. Butt welding would be an option on a high dollar trailer queen. Not necessary for this build. Great video. Thanks, Gary
Fred - Yes there are a few fabricators on Planet Earth who use no fillers, no finishing glaze. I will say this may not be the metal method I would use here or the attention to patch panel fitment - but that does not mean the metal and finishing method used here is wrong. Remember this is going to sit in a museum, not going for the Riddler.
With your comment though, let's hear your argument to multi award winning Master Builder Chip Foose who uses finishing glaze on some vehicles. He may even use a little filler from time to time. There are times for no fillers and no glazes, and there are many more times when it just isn't quite the end of the world when a little filler and/or glazes are used. Beyond that, have a good day!
12B4Christ So true! If ya want new then buy new otherwise open that wallet WIDE because it will take forever cost a small fortune and still won’t be as good as new virgin metal with factory paint . Sorry that’s just how it goes .
That is very backward, but every body to there ways in doing rust repairs ,your ideas, not my cup of tea.
I have been fixing cars this way for almost 30 years. Never had any problems. This car wasn't a concourse restoration and the repair will more than last for the life of the vehicle.
@@QuickSpeedShop what I said every body to there ways in doing rust repairs I have been doing it since the 60s and at 73 still doing it so what is your point
YOU chose to comment that I was doing it "very backward" and "not my cup of tea". So what is YOUR point? YOU imply that I am doing it wrong with those statements. I said I have been doing it a very long time, just as you have. Don't be surprised when you tell someone that their way is incorrect, with no other basis besides the fact YOU deem it to be incorrect and they then respond.
Pete Buttegieg is that you 😂😂😂
Nope. I don't like dudes and I'm not a useless piece of garbage like that creep.
Flange welding is garbage
Been doing this 30 years, no problems. For this car it's good enough.
@@QuickSpeedShop there's so many problems when dealing with flange welding too many to name if you've been doing it 30 years you know what I'm talking about flange welding is half ass welding and people flange weld because they don't know how to butt weld but welding is much better
Well, thanks for the input on my garbage work.
@@jamesbarnes7045What’s wrong with flange?
@@briizcustoms9543 multiple reasons why it's wrong One you're creating a void in between two pieces of metal that you cannot get to after you weld now we have rust issues coming along also you just thicken the metal it's going to be unnecessarily sick and harder to work referring to body work