Hi there, Australia here, really enjoy your videos and find them so helpful to a hobbyist like me. As a retired person, I spend a lot of time in my workshop, so watching your tutorials is a great way for me to keep improving my skills. Cheers and please keep up your videos.
Yep - got to stay busy and keep moving. Body work is a great hobby - something to be proud of when you're done. Nothing better than getting parts in the mail for any old beauty you're working on - like being a kid again. Cheers to you too and have a good weekend :)
Except how to cut the initial metal, grind the metal, type and placement of clamps, type of sandpaper, brand and type of welder, type of welding rod, thickness of patch material, ... but yeah, your buddy explained everything really well
@@saxaphnjones1027 I am sorry but I have some basic knowledge of what he is using and doing. So yea maybe these videos might not be good for all to understand. My Bad!
Thanks again Jerry. I have been in PDR dent repair for almost 30 years, I'm just getting into rust repair, I very much appreciate your butt welding and lap welding, both have their place.
I have fixed many rusted out truck boxes. I like your channel sir. One I tried a while back was to put metal on the top of the panel on the underside and but weld the top the same way reversed. Fit my panel before welding and I feel this might be better just a little more body filler and no banging the weld. I slit the edges around wheel opening mounding. It worked fine. I didn't charge the friend of mine except for materials and paint because I told him this was an experimental repair. It has been 3 years and truck looks like the day I got it done and rust hasn't returned. He has hit the other side. And. I probably will fix that side same way. 2004 ford rustbucket .
I was allways taught to use card to cut and bend the shape of the repair panel before touching steel so then u know exactly how much steel ul need plus bend it to make the complete repair pannel then weld on . . Never overlap as it will corrode where the steel overlaps . Its the way i was learned to do repairs on bodywork or any repair pannel . Its more time consuming but very pleasing once its all welded on . Thanks for ur vid u did a great job . Too many people end up making a complete mess of patching holes .
You are welcome. With respect, it doesn't rust where it's overlapped because it stays dry as the seam is upside down inside the panel and the bottom is really always pinch welded. If you're really concerned about it, just make sure you have a small overlap. Lap welding allows you to fix any shaped rust hole very quickly and efficiently - check these vids out for more information: See these videos for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html ***** www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o37dX-
I've always liked to just keep thick packing paper on spools in the shop. Pull some across the hole, and push it onto the hole and kinda work the sharp edges so that it marks my paper exactly a template of the hole. Then just cut and lay that on some sheet and cut it out plus some for however big of a flange area you want.
Jerry, I'm jealous of how quickly you get those results! Do you find the 30" capacity of the brake enough for most full-size autobody jobs? Have a great weekend, and thanks for the weekly dose, you are an autobody guru!
It does work for most of the patches but you will need a longer one for making door bottoms (the part that fold over the bottom of the door). So actually it really could be a bit longer. Thanks for the support - I'm glad you like the videos. Have a great weekend too :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Lakeside I'm in a pickle with the crew cab s10 short box wheel arch. The side of the wheel arch there seems to be a valley like a seam going towards the rear bumper how do I go about making a grove slash valley in 22 gauge sheet metal without kinking my patch piece? Pretty much I'm rusting out past the wheel arch on the rear drivers side and it's a seam that goes in in comes out going towards the rear bumper and tail light can you please make a video how to fabricate a groove in 22 gauge sheet metal I need help !
Jerry, can you explain to the viewers why right and left (red & green) snips are used? I understand that they are hinged opposite directions, so one side or the other are above the surface and you can turn only one way, but I think some might not grasp this important distinction. Maybe a little demo some time? Thanks again for sharing your years of experience! 😎
I don't cut auto-body patches for a living. However, it seems to me like it would be a lot easier to cut out the rust so you know roughly how big the patch needs to be, cut out the patch, then mark the body metal using the patch, and then you can do your grinding and whatnot using a reliable, accurate line taken from the patch. This way you don't have to keep trimming the patch to make things work. You can cut the body metal to leave whatever amount of overlap you want, and you'll know how things are going to end up. Cutting a hole to match a patch is always easier than cutting a patch to match a hole, when you don't have access to the back to mark it from the inside.
Keep old breakfast cereal boxes box around, the carboard works great to overlap to the cut out metal, use a putty spreader to scrape along the overlap where you cut, and then cut with scissors and you have a damn near perfect template for your metal, you just have to account for the flanges
@@LakesideAutobody you too man, keep up the good work. When I was first starting out I had a hard time getting a good fit on patch panels, an old fabricator at the shop showed me the cereal box trick. Saved me a whole bunch of time spent trimming and fitting, trimming and fitting. I just tape the cardboard to the panel covering where I cut, scrape it along with a spreader to create an outline on the cardboard, and use that to trace onto my sheet metal. Cheers 🍻
Can you make a video showing patching The bottom part of the body on a truck. I'll try to explain where, way under the door the rust is almost the same height as as the sidebars but a few inches towards the driver's door
I had a similar chev Cheyenne. 98.. Had same rust spots both sides of bed. Was gonna do that repair.. but damn tranny gave out before I could do it... bummer
Good work i just started my project pretty much just like this man this looks so easy but it is so so hard the first time you are a skilled craftsman just cutting it and getting it in place is a super challenge how long does it take to learn this i am going to keep doing it till I get it right
Not long - keep at it. Shouldn't take longer than 3-4 patches to get the idea. From there you just get better and better. If you can't get it down - no big deal just have fun with it - you tried it and that's the good thing. Let me know how you are doing now and then. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks jerry i have to learn it because i am in the process of fixing and fliping cars i have three vechiels to sell i am in the process of also trying to get a dealers license to get a lot focusing on cars and trucks with rust and dents theres a very good profit to be made i am going to acheive my goal and be successful because your videos are going to help me get there thank you you're work is outstanding i know you have to fail to succeed so this is a learning process and you have to learn from your mistakes i wil get and keep in touch with you
I need to do this repair but have a section of wheel arch replacement panel to graft in there. Should I be concerned of heat or spark near gas tank neck fill area? Should I use heat blanket inside of trunk area to prevent fire? I appreciate your videos and expertise.
Sniff around the filler tube, gas tank, etc and make sure you don't have any large leaks. Cover the gas cap with a damp cloth if you want and close the filler door. You'll be fine - never saw an explosion in 30 years of doing work around tanks or heard of one. You can cover things that you think may burn with old blankets or if you have welding blankets, use them. After doing a bit of welding, check things out. Keep an air hose with a blow gun on it in case you get a little fire - it'll blow it right out. There's really no worries. Undo the negative terminal on the battery - just to protect sensitive electronics - at least that's what I've always done. You're very welcome for the videos and feel free to always ask questions :)
Absolutely - I have a flux core patch panel video that I'm working on right now - I will upload it within the month. Been real busy for some reason lately :)
nice work !! do you have to disconnect the battery before welding on the vehicle ?? i have welded many years but i have never welded on a vehicle before. h to let you know i have subscribed to your channel , thanks for shearing
Will the inside rust again since it's untreated? I want to do this to my truck but can't think of a good way to go about painting the backside of the weld.
See this video on the best way to prevent future rust - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Remember a panel has to be able to drain and be able to dry out after driving in snow or rain so it's good to add some drain holes in strategic places :)
Would you consider showing us how you dry the air from your compressor? I like your simple approach and when I look up how others do it it gets complicated.
Absolutely. I love simple too. A quick story on simple. When I was 20 I had and in Kenwood car audio cassette w/ bass and treble setting only, 1 giant 2 channel Kenwood amp under the seat and two Kenwood 6x9 3 way speakers firmly mounted in the pickup truck doors. I've never heard anything louder to this day! Simple is often times the right way to go. I'll get on that video - it'll be a real short one :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks man. In high school I added a bass cannon and two pioneer 6x9s into the hatch of my bronco II. It was amazing. Still have those pioneers 24 years later in a full size bronco.
Is it a possibility to cut a patch off of the same vehicle, say one in a junkyard, thats not rusted, and weld it onto the cut out portion of the original vehicle? Ive considered doing this with my Bonneville. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this idea?
Absolutely possible. I've never done it because the junk yard would probably charge me the same price as a whole fender. One other thing is that it would be tough to cut it in the junk yard. Last, usually the junk yard fender is in the same condition as yours is. Just my thoughts though....:)
Sometimes if it's a long bend like a door bottom or this line I'll clamp it between 2 hard boards and bend it over with a body hammer. Let me know if that helps answer the ? Jerry
For general use I like lacquer primer surfacer - it works, builds fast, dries fast, sands easy, cheap, doesn't harden in the cup, can put unused portion back in can. Epoxy, urethane primer surfacer is obviously better quality and works great but cost more. I think urethane is a bit harder to sand and you do have to throw out the unused portion. Last, if you need to bury some shady body work, polyester primer like feather fill works great as it builds super fast and is quite thick so that you have a lot to work with when blocking. I plan on doing a video on different primers and their use soon - I think you'll enjoy that. Have a good weekend :)
@@Captain1717Q Did you mean weld through primer? If so I don't use it as I treat the repair "after" the repair. Manufacturers like Honda are moving away from it now too. See how you can treat the repair post paint: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Hope that answers you question - if not ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes exactly weld through primer..cuz it seems no matter what you do that's where the rust eventually ends up starting.... Like on a production line they don't do anything with the spot welds they just weld bare metal but that's where the rust ends up starting..... I was using SEM Copperweld but I don't know if it's actually doing anything.
@@Captain1717Q To be honest, I don't think the weld through primer can hold up to the weld pool - you're always going to have a little bit that is not coated. That's why you try to treat it after the job is finished. See this vid for info on how: th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html You can come up with your own way - I just use used motor oil cause it's free :)
Short story: My boss told a new hire to install some running boards and said, "What ever you do, don't cut them too short." Guess what happened. I felt bad for the guy as he was pretty mad at himself. It's good to measure 2-3 times.
@@martygrajeda3457 Not true at all - here's some proof - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html - front fender - up front was done with flux - still good today - neighbor's truck :)
Yeah man disconnect the battery cables especially on a modern car with as many or more than 40 computer modules older cars are less sensitive but I still take the negative side off just in case don't want to accidently kill an alternator.
Yes - try Raybuck auto body parts "lower door skin" Not sure about universal. I clamp two pieces of hard wood trim boards together with the metal between them and hammer about a half inch over so it forms a 90 degree bend.
Cutting a small triangle out of each little section would eliminate any overlap when you bend them under and for the most part be unseen unless you were looking up from underneath. You could tack them easily or use panel adhesive. Just my thoughts. 🙂
That's one way to do it, but not really the right way. The right way would be, cut patch panel to the exact length to fit and slip it up under where you cut out. Trace where you cut onto patch panel. Use a tipping die on a bead roller to bend the bottom. Put patch panel in hole and butt weld. Over lapping is leaving bare metal trapped in between patch panel and fender. It should be welded solid. Cool with air hose as you go and move around as your welding to prevent warpage. If you don't weld solid the filler, primer, paint will all shrink and in a couple years you will see tack welds. But for a work truck or a daily driver his way will work but it will rust where the over lapping was done because there is bare metal trapped in between the two panels. I would atleast use a weldable primer in between if you are going to do it this way.
With all due respect, shops in MI avoid butt welding seams for many good reasons - see this for some - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html You're right about welding solid - really can help but I've really never had issues leaving space. see this video - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html Last weld through primer is not what you think. You still will have bare metal between the panels because of the added metal from the wire welder and the part of the primer that's burned away. Also, Hondo and other Manufacturers have gone away from using it due to effects it has on the weld pool. It's best to prevent the rust "after" the repair is finished like this - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps you out a bit - been at this for quite a few years - perfecting rust repairs and finding out what works / what doesn't :)
Ok, with all do respect everyone has their ways of doing patch panels. I've been fixing rust for 30yrs and have fixed ALOT of it!! I will keep putting my patches in flush where you really don't even need any filler. You can keep putting yours in over top and then Tap your patch in so you have room for your filler. Just a suggestion, if you're gonna over lap your panel,buy a stepping tool. Then your patch will be flush with the rest of the panel. Use good weldable primer, weld solid and when possible seam seal the back side of seam. Just to keep moisture out. Good job on your videos. Thanks for the response.
@@gregbowen9546 Thanks Greg. I agree if you can get to the back side and seam seal - that's huge. I'm glad you like the videos and hope they help out in some way. Nice talking to you my friend. Have a good weekend :)
A five gallon bucket of body tools will take care of most of your body work needs. I'll do a video on that soon as I've been asked about that a few times. Have a great weekend :)
Wire speed 40 - Heat - 2 I'll turn it down to 1 if I start burning through and move the wire speed down a little maybe 35 - It's a Miller Milermatic 90 from the '90s
@@LakesideAutobody I don't know how to tig weld. I have a hard time welding aluminum with oxygen acetylene. I hear that some of the import tig machines are pretty good and reasonably priced. Someday I would like to get one. Thank you for always taking the time to answer my questions.
There's 3 ways professional body shops fix rust: 1) Combination of Lap and Butt welds. If you insist on strictly butt welds, here's the best way to do them for longevity: th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html 2) Lap joint using structural adhesive or panel bond 3) Fiberglass cloth and fiber reinforced body filler If you are really interested here's some great information on it: Lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html * th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html * th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper welds & surrounding metal. In the end it’s what works for you though. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Gluing is also a great method. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html
@@mypointofview6056 Butt weld 20 or 22 gauge steel and see how metal you have left after grinding the welds flush, which isn't much, and you still have to use body filler. Hot rod hippie doesn't have 30 years of experience
Hi Aaron, you can always buy a new fender - but this is for folks that want to know how professional body shops do it (in the rust belt - not on the internet). Shops weld or use panel adhesive for patches with plain old sheet metal. No high production body shops have metal machining tools or sheet metal tools. There's no panel that can't be repaired with these methods but there's plenty that can't be repaired if you need those tools. I've seen a lot of guys get let go because they couldn't do the work. The good guys I worked with can do most body work with a 5 gallon bucket of tools - that's really all you need. Those are the guys you really respect too. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you could have used a pair of pliers to tip the edge wo all those slices in it, and a hammer on a rubber surface could have put some shape in the panel. It all comes down to understanding what metal does. I know alot of guys who can fix most problems with a 5 gallon bucket of bondo and they usually have a rust repair disclaimer on the wall.
@@aarondalton2223 I like one method that works every single time and you perfect it. That's why I was fast, efficient, made money. There's all kinds of sharp bends, curves and shapes that rollers and fooling around w/ the metal ain't going to create. There's never been a shape I cant make with the methods you'll see on this channel. Again, that's why some guys couldn't survive in a real body shop. I'm sure there are other and better ways with better tools but you don't have access to those most of the time so... Nice talking to you though - have a good weekend :)
@Keith Clark i think you may be confusing body shop with restoration shop he is not restoring cars he is making a rusty turd look good for 10 more years
I see minimal penetration of the spot welds, too short duration and too low voltage. After grinding I would wager there is little strength in the joint.
Ahh... That's why you don't grind welds that much. Very few guys waste time and materials grinding welds in a professional body shop. See this video from Eastwood for more info: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html Also see these videos for the longevity of this type of repair: if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html / th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html BTW you can hold the trigger longer if you prefer and even put the welds right next to each other - that's up to you - I try to save gas due to it being a video. Have a good week :)
Don't use weld through primer as it will affect the weld pool and is really not meant for MIG but a spot welder - the kind that pinches two probes together. Remember, with MIG, you are adding metal (wire feed) - that will not be coated with weld through and rust . Here's the solution - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Don't go anywhere else for rust repair - the shops I worked at figured it out years ago - th-cam.com/video/idrLzsz2eLg/w-d-xo.html
Never be afraid to use filler. Those that are will never make it in an actual body shop. Check this out - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html and this for good info on filler thickness - th-cam.com/video/rIoNhu166Hw/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, Australia here, really enjoy your videos and find them so helpful to a hobbyist like me. As a retired person, I spend a lot of time in my workshop, so watching your tutorials is a great way for me to keep improving my skills. Cheers and please keep up your videos.
Yep - got to stay busy and keep moving. Body work is a great hobby - something to be proud of when you're done. Nothing better than getting parts in the mail for any old beauty you're working on - like being a kid again. Cheers to you too and have a good weekend :)
I love this man's channel. He explains everything really well.
Except how to cut the initial metal, grind the metal, type and placement of clamps, type of sandpaper, brand and type of welder, type of welding rod, thickness of patch material, ... but yeah, your buddy explained everything really well
@@saxaphnjones1027 I am sorry but I have some basic knowledge of what he is using and doing. So yea maybe these videos might not be good for all to understand. My Bad!
@@saxaphnjones1027 I have no problem understanding. Also, he's stated all of that stuff plenty of times, so yeah
With your videos I was able to cut out and replace my rocker panel and cab corner. Thank you so much for your content!
You're welcome - glad it helped.
Thanks again Jerry. I have been in PDR dent repair for almost 30 years, I'm just getting into rust repair, I very much appreciate your butt welding and lap welding, both have their place.
Yes they do - everything can be used - butt, lap, glue, glass, etc. Thanks for checking out the video Joel - have a good weekend :)
Good Work! I could watch these rust repair patching videos all day. Thank you!
You're welcome - glad you like them - have a good weekend :)
Did anybody else look away when he was doing his spot welds? Lol
Awesome tips man. Definitely going to use this on the floor and vanagon.
I do when I edit the video! That's funny :)
I have fixed many rusted out truck boxes. I like your channel sir. One I tried a while back was to put metal on the top of the panel on the underside and but weld the top the same way reversed. Fit my panel before welding and I feel this might be better just a little more body filler and no banging the weld. I slit the edges around wheel opening mounding. It worked fine. I didn't charge the friend of mine except for materials and paint because I told him this was an experimental repair. It has been 3 years and truck looks like the day I got it done and rust hasn't returned. He has hit the other side. And. I probably will fix that side same way. 2004 ford rustbucket .
Sounds like you have a good process. Those 04 Fords sure rusted good 🥴
I was allways taught to use card to cut and bend the shape of the repair panel before touching steel so then u know exactly how much steel ul need plus bend it to make the complete repair pannel then weld on . . Never overlap as it will corrode where the steel overlaps . Its the way i was learned to do repairs on bodywork or any repair pannel . Its more time consuming but very pleasing once its all welded on . Thanks for ur vid u did a great job . Too many people end up making a complete mess of patching holes .
You are welcome. With respect, it doesn't rust where it's overlapped because it stays dry as the seam is upside down inside the panel and the bottom is really always pinch welded. If you're really concerned about it, just make sure you have a small overlap. Lap welding allows you to fix any shaped rust hole very quickly and efficiently - check these vids out for more information: See these videos for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html *****
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o37dX-
Man, you have some great videos. Doing my first rust hole repair this weekend. Thank you for the time you put into your content.
Thanks 👍 - glad you like the videos. You're welcome and enjoy the weekend :)
I've always liked to just keep thick packing paper on spools in the shop. Pull some across the hole, and push it onto the hole and kinda work the sharp edges so that it marks my paper exactly a template of the hole. Then just cut and lay that on some sheet and cut it out plus some for however big of a flange area you want.
Good idea - what ever it takes and what ever works best for you. Thanks for the input :)
Great video again Jerry your channel is definitely the most helpful when it comes to Auto Body you are a real master
Thanks a lot - you made my day :)
Good Job!! Very informative.. I have to do my f-150 wheel wells as soon the snow is gone here in Michigan or I can get the carport up
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Jerry, you're the man, great work, you get it so close to finish right off the bat. I always enjoy your vids!
Thanks Dave - I appreciate the support - have a great week end.
@@LakesideAutobody We appreciate your great instructional vids A+!
Thanks, Jerry.
As always great to watch.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it. Have a good weekend :)
Thank you for producing these excellent videos, they are really helpful and well done!
Thanks for the support - that makes my day. Have a good week :)
I’m trying to work up the nerve to try this exact repair. But I need to do the inner fender too and am not sure where to start on that.
Excellent, simple, not overcomplicated.
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Jerry another top notch tutorial video thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge 👍🏻
Thanks 👍 Glad you enjoyed it. Have a good week :)
Jerry, I'm jealous of how quickly you get those results! Do you find the 30" capacity of the brake enough for most full-size autobody jobs? Have a great weekend, and thanks for the weekly dose, you are an autobody guru!
It does work for most of the patches but you will need a longer one for making door bottoms (the part that fold over the bottom of the door). So actually it really could be a bit longer. Thanks for the support - I'm glad you like the videos. Have a great weekend too :)
You make it look so easy, I envy You. Another fine video from You.
Thanks 👍 I appreciate the support - glad you like them.
Thanks once again for another informative video! Well Shown and Well Done! Thanks Again. 🤝
You're welcome and thank you for the support :)
Nice job
Thanks - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Lakeside I'm in a pickle with the crew cab s10 short box wheel arch. The side of the wheel arch there seems to be a valley like a seam going towards the rear bumper how do I go about making a grove slash valley in 22 gauge sheet metal without kinking my patch piece? Pretty much I'm rusting out past the wheel arch on the rear drivers side and it's a seam that goes in in comes out going towards the rear bumper and tail light can you please make a video how to fabricate a groove in 22 gauge sheet metal I need help !
spraywaycustoms... not bad for a first try lol
@@robertw5008 Sorry about the late reply, can you get a patch panel that's made for that truck from Raybuck Auto Body Parts ?
@@LakesideAutobody checking into it right now let you know what I come up with thank you sir!
Another great video Jerry!
Thanks again! Always good to hear from you - have a good weekend. Hope to see that box chevy painted soon.
@@LakesideAutobody hopefully over the winter I’ll have plenty footage on the box Chevy...enjoy your weekend Jerry!
Jerry, can you explain to the viewers why right and left (red & green) snips are used?
I understand that they are hinged opposite directions, so one side or the other are above the surface and you can turn only one way, but I think some might not grasp this important distinction.
Maybe a little demo some time?
Thanks again for sharing your years of experience! 😎
Excellent suggestion. Thanks - I'll do that. Have a good weekend :)
Red is right cut, green is left cut
Yellow is straight cut. Buy all three if you do this work a lot, you will use all of them
@@dannyboettger8482 yellow (universal) goes both ways, but not as well as either dedicated direction
You are One Amazing Guy... Thanks for Sharing
I appreciate that David - you're welcome my friend. Happy Holiday season to you and your family ❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Again... Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas
I don't cut auto-body patches for a living. However, it seems to me like it would be a lot easier to cut out the rust so you know roughly how big the patch needs to be, cut out the patch, then mark the body metal using the patch, and then you can do your grinding and whatnot using a reliable, accurate line taken from the patch. This way you don't have to keep trimming the patch to make things work. You can cut the body metal to leave whatever amount of overlap you want, and you'll know how things are going to end up. Cutting a hole to match a patch is always easier than cutting a patch to match a hole, when you don't have access to the back to mark it from the inside.
Good thought but a lot of times after cutting out the rust, all you have left is a pile of rubble :)
Oh boy! You have the Best intro 🤙
Thanks! 😁 Lately I've been listening to one song and only one song in my truck - In Due Time by Killswitch Engauge
Keep old breakfast cereal boxes box around, the carboard works great to overlap to the cut out metal, use a putty spreader to scrape along the overlap where you cut, and then cut with scissors and you have a damn near perfect template for your metal, you just have to account for the flanges
Very good idea - I have to remember that. Have a good weekend Stax :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too man, keep up the good work. When I was first starting out I had a hard time getting a good fit on patch panels, an old fabricator at the shop showed me the cereal box trick. Saved me a whole bunch of time spent trimming and fitting, trimming and fitting. I just tape the cardboard to the panel covering where I cut, scrape it along with a spreader to create an outline on the cardboard, and use that to trace onto my sheet metal. Cheers 🍻
Can you make a video showing patching The bottom part of the body on a truck. I'll try to explain where, way under the door the rust is almost the same height as as the sidebars but a few inches towards the driver's door
Like this? th-cam.com/video/2vEPQimW564/w-d-xo.html If you check out the playlist called rust repair you may find others on rocker repair too :)
Beautiful work
Thanks Allen - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Thanks for the great tips.
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Great video as always. I was just wondering yesterday where you were at
Glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
I had a similar chev Cheyenne. 98..
Had same rust spots both sides of bed. Was gonna do that repair.. but damn tranny gave out before I could do it... bummer
Good work i just started my project pretty much just like this man this looks so easy but it is so so hard the first time you are a skilled craftsman just cutting it and getting it in place is a super challenge how long does it take to learn this i am going to keep doing it till I get it right
Not long - keep at it. Shouldn't take longer than 3-4 patches to get the idea. From there you just get better and better. If you can't get it down - no big deal just have fun with it - you tried it and that's the good thing. Let me know how you are doing now and then. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks jerry i have to learn it because i am in the process of fixing and fliping cars i have three vechiels to sell i am in the process of also trying to get a dealers license to get a lot focusing on cars and trucks with rust and dents theres a very good profit to be made i am going to acheive my goal and be successful because your videos are going to help me get there thank you you're work is outstanding i know you have to fail to succeed so this is a learning process and you have to learn from your mistakes i wil get and keep in touch with you
I need to do this repair but have a section of wheel arch replacement panel to graft in there. Should I be concerned of heat or spark near gas tank neck fill area? Should I use heat blanket inside of trunk area to prevent fire? I appreciate your videos and expertise.
Sniff around the filler tube, gas tank, etc and make sure you don't have any large leaks. Cover the gas cap with a damp cloth if you want and close the filler door. You'll be fine - never saw an explosion in 30 years of doing work around tanks or heard of one. You can cover things that you think may burn with old blankets or if you have welding blankets, use them. After doing a bit of welding, check things out. Keep an air hose with a blow gun on it in case you get a little fire - it'll blow it right out. There's really no worries. Undo the negative terminal on the battery - just to protect sensitive electronics - at least that's what I've always done. You're very welcome for the videos and feel free to always ask questions :)
Wow.....fantastic work man...could I achieve good work like this with flux core welding or close to as possible?
Absolutely - I have a flux core patch panel video that I'm working on right now - I will upload it within the month. Been real busy for some reason lately :)
@@LakesideAutobody im really looking foward to that video
nice work !! do you have to disconnect the battery before welding on the vehicle ?? i have welded many years but i have never welded on a vehicle before. h
to let you know i have subscribed to your channel , thanks for shearing
It is recommended - yes. Although I have forgotten many times and nothing ever got damaged. Thanks for the sub Tom - have a good week :)
Nicely done. You made that look easy
Thanks 👍 Have a good weekend.
@@LakesideAutobody You too. Great chanel
Can I use left over spare wood stove pipe to use as a patch? I’ll remove black paint on both sides
I suppose you could. Even old panels from the junk yard. As long as you can weld it, you can use it :)
Will the inside rust again since it's untreated? I want to do this to my truck but can't think of a good way to go about painting the backside of the weld.
See this video on the best way to prevent future rust - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Remember a panel has to be able to drain and be able to dry out after driving in snow or rain so it's good to add some drain holes in strategic places :)
Would you consider showing us how you dry the air from your compressor? I like your simple approach and when I look up how others do it it gets complicated.
Absolutely. I love simple too. A quick story on simple. When I was 20 I had and in Kenwood car audio cassette w/ bass and treble setting only, 1 giant 2 channel Kenwood amp under the seat and two Kenwood 6x9 3 way speakers firmly mounted in the pickup truck doors. I've never heard anything louder to this day! Simple is often times the right way to go. I'll get on that video - it'll be a real short one :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks man. In high school I added a bass cannon and two pioneer 6x9s into the hatch of my bronco II. It was amazing. Still have those pioneers 24 years later in a full size bronco.
Really good stuff!
Thanks a lot - glad you enjoyed it. Have a good week :)
That is one way to do a repair , but not the most professional and best if you are doing a high class restoration
If concerned with longevity of a repair and you want to drive the car in the elements check this out _ th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
Great videos.. great channel for body work. 👍
I appreciate that - have a good weekend :)
Great video.
👍😊
As usual, Great job!!!!
Thanks - have a good week:)
Hi just wonder which thickness suit for make a patch ? any guidline ?
22 or 20 gauge sheet metal. 22 = about .030" and 20 = about .035"
Is it a possibility to cut a patch off of the same vehicle, say one in a junkyard, thats not rusted, and weld it onto the cut out portion of the original vehicle? Ive considered doing this with my Bonneville. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this idea?
Absolutely possible. I've never done it because the junk yard would probably charge me the same price as a whole fender. One other thing is that it would be tough to cut it in the junk yard. Last, usually the junk yard fender is in the same condition as yours is. Just my thoughts though....:)
Hi Jerry, great video! At 12:30, how did you form the body line (the 1" wide flat strip) where the molding goes?
Sometimes if it's a long bend like a door bottom or this line I'll clamp it between 2 hard boards and bend it over with a body hammer. Let me know if that helps answer the ? Jerry
Do you use and believe in wealth through primer if so what do you use?
For general use I like lacquer primer surfacer - it works, builds fast, dries fast, sands easy, cheap, doesn't harden in the cup, can put unused portion back in can. Epoxy, urethane primer surfacer is obviously better quality and works great but cost more. I think urethane is a bit harder to sand and you do have to throw out the unused portion. Last, if you need to bury some shady body work, polyester primer like feather fill works great as it builds super fast and is quite thick so that you have a lot to work with when blocking. I plan on doing a video on different primers and their use soon - I think you'll enjoy that. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hi sorry I was asking about world through primer if you used it.
@@Captain1717Q Did you mean weld through primer? If so I don't use it as I treat the repair "after" the repair. Manufacturers like Honda are moving away from it now too. See how you can treat the repair post paint: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Hope that answers you question - if not ask again :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes exactly weld through primer..cuz it seems no matter what you do that's where the rust eventually ends up starting.... Like on a production line they don't do anything with the spot welds they just weld bare metal but that's where the rust ends up starting..... I was using SEM Copperweld but I don't know if it's actually doing anything.
@@Captain1717Q To be honest, I don't think the weld through primer can hold up to the weld pool - you're always going to have a little bit that is not coated. That's why you try to treat it after the job is finished. See this vid for info on how: th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html You can come up with your own way - I just use used motor oil cause it's free :)
Boa dica de remendo do arco de paralama..
Obrigado
I measure everything to three times and that bottom lip that you cut that's the first band I make
Short story: My boss told a new hire to install some running boards and said, "What ever you do, don't cut them too short." Guess what happened. I felt bad for the guy as he was pretty mad at himself. It's good to measure 2-3 times.
Can flux core be used for body panels? If so can you paint over it?
Yes - no problems at all. You would do the repair in the same way :)
Okay thanks I got some people telling me that I can’t. That the paint will start peeling off
@@martygrajeda3457 Not true at all - here's some proof - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html - front fender - up front was done with flux - still good today - neighbor's truck :)
@@LakesideAutobody man thank you brother for your help. I appreciate it 🙏
@@martygrajeda3457 You're welcome Marty - enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)
So when you weld or use the stud gun to attach pulling studs, do you disconnect the cars battery? Neg or Pos or both? Great video.
I usually do - yes. I have forgotten to do it many times but it didn't cause electrical problems. It's a good practice though just to make sure.
Yeah man disconnect the battery cables especially on a modern car with as many or more than 40 computer modules older cars are less sensitive but I still take the negative side off just in case don't want to accidently kill an alternator.
Do they still sell universal door bottoms? My brake is too short to make my own. Thanks
Yes - try Raybuck auto body parts "lower door skin" Not sure about universal. I clamp two pieces of hard wood trim boards together with the metal between them and hammer about a half inch over so it forms a 90 degree bend.
Could you have cut pie slices on the lower edge so the was no overlap?
Could you explain that a bit more - I'm not clear on exactly what you mean - might have a good idea there :)
Cutting a small triangle out of each little section would eliminate any overlap when you bend them under and for the most part be unseen unless you were looking up from underneath. You could tack them easily or use panel adhesive. Just my thoughts. 🙂
Great Video my brother💪
Thanks my friend - have a good day :)
What kind of welder do you use?
In this video a Miller Millermatic 90 110V with .023" wire. It's their smallest MIG welder :)
That's one way to do it, but not really the right way. The right way would be, cut patch panel to the exact length to fit and slip it up under where you cut out. Trace where you cut onto patch panel. Use a tipping die on a bead roller to bend the bottom. Put patch panel in hole and butt weld. Over lapping is leaving bare metal trapped in between patch panel and fender. It should be welded solid. Cool with air hose as you go and move around as your welding to prevent warpage. If you don't weld solid the filler, primer, paint will all shrink and in a couple years you will see tack welds. But for a work truck or a daily driver his way will work but it will rust where the over lapping was done because there is bare metal trapped in between the two panels. I would atleast use a weldable primer in between if you are going to do it this way.
With all due respect, shops in MI avoid butt welding seams for many good reasons - see this for some - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html You're right about welding solid - really can help but I've really never had issues leaving space. see this video - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html Last weld through primer is not what you think. You still will have bare metal between the panels because of the added metal from the wire welder and the part of the primer that's burned away. Also, Hondo and other Manufacturers have gone away from using it due to effects it has on the weld pool. It's best to prevent the rust "after" the repair is finished like this - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps you out a bit - been at this for quite a few years - perfecting rust repairs and finding out what works / what doesn't :)
Ok, with all do respect everyone has their ways of doing patch panels. I've been fixing rust for 30yrs and have fixed ALOT of it!! I will keep putting my patches in flush where you really don't even need any filler. You can keep putting yours in over top and then Tap your patch in so you have room for your filler. Just a suggestion, if you're gonna over lap your panel,buy a stepping tool. Then your patch will be flush with the rest of the panel. Use good weldable primer, weld solid and when possible seam seal the back side of seam. Just to keep moisture out. Good job on your videos. Thanks for the response.
@@gregbowen9546 Thanks Greg. I agree if you can get to the back side and seam seal - that's huge. I'm glad you like the videos and hope they help out in some way. Nice talking to you my friend. Have a good weekend :)
Great job 👍.
Good to hear from you Plymouthnut - have a good weekend :)
Huge help thank you 😊
Glad it helped! Have a good weekend :)
Do you use 90/10 mig gas? What size wire?
It's 80/20 and the wire is .023
What kind of welder is that
Miller millermatic 90, 110v from the 90's MIG .023 wire.
Great job!
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
You too brother 👍
✌
Old school work at its best don't have to buy a fender.
Nope - it still looks fine - it's a neighbor's truck :)
LOOKS GOOD JERRY
BUT
WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN QUICKER TO
JUST PUT A GOOD USED OR NEW FENDER
ON IT.
JUST. WONDERING
THANKS. GOOD. VIDEO
Yes but the guy wanted it done cheap as possible.
Interesting how much auto-body work can be accomplished using basic tools.
A five gallon bucket of body tools will take care of most of your body work needs. I'll do a video on that soon as I've been asked about that a few times. Have a great weekend :)
What is your wire speed and your heat setting
Wire speed 40 - Heat - 2 I'll turn it down to 1 if I start burning through and move the wire speed down a little maybe 35 - It's a Miller Milermatic 90 from the '90s
Have you done tig welding?
No but I do plan on getting one day as I do come across some aluminum that needs welding every once in a while - how about you?
@@LakesideAutobody I don't know how to tig weld. I have a hard time welding aluminum with oxygen acetylene. I hear that some of the import tig machines are pretty good and reasonably priced. Someday I would like to get one. Thank you for always taking the time to answer my questions.
Get a mig with a spool gun. Much easier
Why do you not do but welds instead?
There's 3 ways professional body shops fix rust:
1) Combination of Lap and Butt welds. If you insist on strictly butt welds, here's the best way to do them for longevity: th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html
2) Lap joint using structural adhesive or panel bond
3) Fiberglass cloth and fiber reinforced body filler
If you are really interested here's some great information on it:
Lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html *
th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html *
th-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/w-d-xo.html
Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper welds & surrounding metal. In the end it’s what works for you though. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Gluing is also a great method. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html or
th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody th-cam.com/video/yjjmlEhT_go/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=HotRodHippie
@@mypointofview6056 Butt weld 20 or 22 gauge steel and see how metal you have left after grinding the welds flush, which isn't much, and you still have to use body filler. Hot rod hippie doesn't have 30 years of experience
👍
Nice
Thanks :)
What a hack job. I would have rolled the panel in a wheelie machine the tipped the edge in a beading machine.
@jubjub247 I bet you use spray foam on rocker panels.
Hi Aaron, you can always buy a new fender - but this is for folks that want to know how professional body shops do it (in the rust belt - not on the internet). Shops weld or use panel adhesive for patches with plain old sheet metal. No high production body shops have metal machining tools or sheet metal tools. There's no panel that can't be repaired with these methods but there's plenty that can't be repaired if you need those tools. I've seen a lot of guys get let go because they couldn't do the work. The good guys I worked with can do most body work with a 5 gallon bucket of tools - that's really all you need. Those are the guys you really respect too. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you could have used a pair of pliers to tip the edge wo all those slices in it, and a hammer on a rubber surface could have put some shape in the panel. It all comes down to understanding what metal does. I know alot of guys who can fix most problems with a 5 gallon bucket of bondo and they usually have a rust repair disclaimer on the wall.
@@aarondalton2223 I like one method that works every single time and you perfect it. That's why I was fast, efficient, made money. There's all kinds of sharp bends, curves and shapes that rollers and fooling around w/ the metal ain't going to create. There's never been a shape I cant make with the methods you'll see on this channel. Again, that's why some guys couldn't survive in a real body shop. I'm sure there are other and better ways with better tools but you don't have access to those most of the time so... Nice talking to you though - have a good weekend :)
@Keith Clark i think you may be confusing body shop with restoration shop he is not restoring cars he is making a rusty turd look good for 10 more years
I see minimal penetration of the spot welds, too short duration and too low voltage.
After grinding I would wager there is little strength in the joint.
Ahh... That's why you don't grind welds that much. Very few guys waste time and materials grinding welds in a professional body shop. See this video from Eastwood for more info: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html Also see these videos for the longevity of this type of repair: if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html /
th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html BTW you can hold the trigger longer if you prefer and even put the welds right next to each other - that's up to you - I try to save gas due to it being a video. Have a good week :)
You don't need much heat to get good penetration on 20 gauge steel. Anymore heat than that and he would be blowing holes
BAD ASS SHIT! NOT CACA! 😁🇲🇽👍💪👏 GOOD DETAIL.👍
Prutser
Wrong - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html ---- th-cam.com/video/idrLzsz2eLg/w-d-xo.html
thats going to rust again, you applied no weld through. Botched
Don't use weld through primer as it will affect the weld pool and is really not meant for MIG but a spot welder - the kind that pinches two probes together. Remember, with MIG, you are adding metal (wire feed) - that will not be coated with weld through and rust . Here's the solution - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html Don't go anywhere else for rust repair - the shops I worked at figured it out years ago - th-cam.com/video/idrLzsz2eLg/w-d-xo.html
omg please stop...... there is so much filler on that now.....
Never be afraid to use filler. Those that are will never make it in an actual body shop. Check this out - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html and this for good info on filler thickness - th-cam.com/video/rIoNhu166Hw/w-d-xo.html